Upstart Tabletop Epoxy 👉 www.upstartepoxy.com/products/epoxy-resin-table-top/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube Upstart Deep Pour Epoxy 👉www.upstartepoxy.com/products/deep-pour-epoxy-resin/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube Easy to Use Epoxy Calculator 👉 www.upstartepoxy.com/pages/epoxy-calculator/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube ua-cam.com/users/sgaming/emoji/7ff574f2/emoji_u1f449.png
Just did my first table I built for a Kitchen nook, first time doing anything like this and man the first 2 coats came out good the 3rd messed up for some reason so I sanded it down lightly with 220 grit, pour the last or 4th coat and it came out super clean looks great worth every penny I spent to do it. The hardest part was making sure I had everything I needed the having everything ready to use. Make sure you have really good lighting so you can see any imperfection so you can smooth them out. And walk around it looking from all sides or you might miss something. Have you heat gun plugged in and ready to pick up on the fly because time goes by fast then you think when you are trying to smooth it out then brushing the sides and then taking your heat gun to blow on it to get those tiny little bubles out. Funny thing was I didn't even see the buble till I put the heat on it. But the bubles come up and pop just as sweet as you please. Very good product. I only poured about 1/4 inch at a time so a thin coat and it worked great. Mine ended up being about 1 inch thick total. Wish I could post a photo because mine came out awesome and this was my first time doing this.
I've done this before and my table came out great but because my memory is like a sieve, I thank you for your video as a good reminder. brilliant work and thanks. Rob
Thank you for a thorough complete video. I’ve watched dozens and this is the ONLY ONE that is thorough and easy to understand and follow. Your video has given the confidence that I truly can do it on my own. The table I’m covering is the precise same as yours. I will upload my video when I start. The only difference is that I want to paint my table white with gold streaks somehow prior to pouring the epoxy
Question. The project I have in mind is for a computer desk with a top just the one in the video. Only I have all these mtg art cards that I wanted to put under the epoxy. For reference, They’re pretty much trading cards, same thickness. The final result being a tabletop I can see all the cards on. Is this a viable option with this product? If so how would I go about it?
Doesn't matter if you're just sealing the bare wood underneath. But, in my experience oil based adheres better with epoxy. I've used oil based polyurethane many many times as a seal coat, lightly sand it with 220 grit when fully dry (a day or two), and then do my epoxy flood coat. Did my cedar slab breakfast bar that way 7 years ago and it still looks brand new.
Hi @@Rotor-Sims! It really depends on you. If you're okay with the outcome of the cured epoxy then you have the option not to sand and polish it. However, if you're seeing any imperfections you can fix it by doing so.
Question, I want to place a sports decal on my mancave table. I was thinking I would use this product to put down one layer, place the decal over the top, and then place another layer over the decal. Would that work?
Just finished doing an old piece of sycamore with lots of bug holes and character, I was amazed how long tiny bubbles kept rising but the heat gun took care of them with no problem. This video made the process very easy. Can you tell me more about the final sanding/polishing please? I don't see it on the website.
Hi Brian! We're glad our tutorial made your process very easy :) Once your piece is cured, you can lightly sand it with an 80 grit and apply a furniture oil if you want a not-so-glossy finish. if you like a glossy one, you can use our Supergloss Coating for its topcoat.
Going to do a dining room wood table where I stain the wood different colors before usually doing oil-based polyurethane as a top coat but because this is going to be a dining table and not coffee or end table I need to finish it with a something that can make the top smooth. Will the oil polyurethane or stain cause problems with the epoxy. I usually use the oil based poly because it yellows the wood and gives it an older appearance. Also if the oil based poly would cause a problem and I just go with the epoxy for the top sealer will the oil based stains I used on the wood cause a problem? Thanks.
So would u recommend using this product for the top of a workbench?? Can you tape the edges of the top to reduce waste? How thick can I go with this product?
Yes, epoxy can be used over a painted table, but there are some important steps and considerations to ensure proper adhesion and a smooth finish: Surface Preparation: Ensure the paint is fully cured. Different paints have different curing times, so refer to the manufacturer's instructions. Lightly sand the painted surface with fine-grit sandpaper (e.g., 220 grit) to create a slightly rough surface. This helps the epoxy adhere better. Clean the surface thoroughly to remove any dust, grease, or contaminants. Use a lint-free cloth and a suitable cleaner (like isopropyl alcohol) to wipe down the surface. Sealing the Surface: If the painted surface is porous or has any texture, consider applying a thin seal coat of epoxy first. This helps to prevent air bubbles from forming in the final coat.
Yes our tabletop epoxy creates a protective coating. You can find it here! www.upstartepoxy.com/products/epoxy-resin-table-top/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube
hi there, I enjoyed the video. My question is this, what if I wanted to stain the table top then use this epoxy? Will it still bind? Still be without bubbles?
Glad you enjoyed the video! Yes you can use our table top epoxy www.upstartepoxy.com/products/epoxy-resin-table-top/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube on top of a stain! Here are some tips and tricks to make sure it comes out the way you want it. 1. Choose the Right Stain Compatibility: Use a stain that is compatible with epoxy resin. Oil-based stains are commonly used, but they must be fully cured before applying epoxy. Water-based stains are also an option and may dry faster and cure in a way that's more compatible with epoxy application. 2. Properly Prepare the Surface Sanding: Before staining, sand the tabletop thoroughly to ensure a smooth surface. Start with a coarser grit and work your way up to a finer grit for a smooth finish. Clean: Ensure the surface is clean and free of dust, grease, or any residue that could interfere with stain adhesion and later, the epoxy's ability to bind to the stained surface. 3. Apply the Stain Correctly Even Application: Apply the stain evenly according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use a brush, rag, or sponge for application and wipe away excess stain to avoid puddles or uneven areas. Cure Time: Allow the stain to cure fully. This is crucial. The curing time can vary significantly depending on the type of stain, the application thickness, and environmental conditions. Oil-based stains, in particular, may require longer to cure fully (often several days to a week). 4. Seal the Stain (Optional) Sealer Application: You can apply a sealer after the stain has cured and before the epoxy. This step can help seal the stain, preventing it from interacting with the epoxy and also can aid in reducing the chances of bubbles forming. If you choose to use a sealer, ensure it is fully cured and compatible with both the stain and the epoxy resin. 5. Apply Epoxy Bubble Prevention: After ensuring the stained surface is fully cured and prepared, mix and pour the epoxy. To avoid bubbles, pour slowly and carefully. Use a heat gun or torch to gently heat the surface of the epoxy after pouring to pop any bubbles that do form.
I am planning on making a craft table and really want it to be spectacular. I plan on painting the table top and then doing an acrylic stencil in the corners. Will the epoxy lift the table paint or the acrylic paint used for the stencil?
Just wondering, if you are short on the amount of part A and part B, would it be better to pour in the part A and then measure the additional amount then do the same with part B? Brand new waiting on my first order, figure it must be a great product coming from Wisconsin!.
Excellent coverage of the math part of the process 👍. No wood surface prep (sanding - tac-cloth - alcohol lint free wipe , filtered water damp cloth "grain pop"-repeat ONCE sand before , between and after ) and no Moisture content testing to validate long term coating survival for moisture egress under the coating side , even if most of it will exit the exposed under surface . Once its "cured" , a light under coating CAN prevent moisture In-TAKE , but that's not a likely SHORT TERM problem for air-conditioned environments👍. For ultimate long-term discoloration , no mention of UV or other additives already in the product or available as add-ins . Promising a 2nd-pour even if its not "really necessary" _this time_ or mention of the best TIMING - *just ahead of final solidifying of the 1st layer* , and while this really is a *good* how-2 , its just a _bit_ incomplete . Every one of these steps CAN contribute to LONGEVITY of an EXCELLENT result , but truthfully, what you DO show seems just about RIGHT for a GOOD beginning effort !
Do you have a more detailed video of the process as I am an overthinker and would love to see the process more detailed and with anything that might be missing
What you missed in the video is if you do need to do a flood coat after the seal coat, what has to happen to the table to prepare it for the Flood Coat, aka, sand with 120 gritt to give the flood coat something to adhere to, after cleaning off residue from sanding.
Thank you! You would have to seal your paper first as what you should do with the wood surface as both materials are porous. Once sealed, you may pour your epoxy just like that one on the video. ;)
I want to Table Top Expoxy a vintage 5 panel door. That means some places it will be up to 1/4 in deep. I would like it to be all one level. Can this product do that?
Did you complete this project? This is exactly what my plan is! I don’t want to sand it at all. Did you put epoxy into the center of each panel to “fill” it first, before coating the whole door? Did you leave the hardware on the door? How did yours turn out?
I want to epoxy a 24 in wood round. Do I use the same measurements you did for a rectangle table for my wood round? The 1/16 and 1/8 x H x W then convert those numbers to US ounces?
Hi Jeremy! For a round surface, you will need to calculate the radius. Since you have 24" as your diameter, you can divide it by 2 to calculate the radius. Next is to calculate volume in cubic inches. To do this, it's going to be (radius squared) X pi (or, 3.14159265) x (desired epoxy coating thickness). Divide by 1.805 to convert cubic inch volume to US fluid ounces. To convert ounces to gallons, divide by 128. Hope this helps!
@@upstartepoxy4804 Thank you for formula. Is it normal for me to use a heat gun for 15 minutes? Most of it was on the side of the wood round, not so much the flat part of the wood. The side of the round was difficult to keep the epoxy to stay as it dripped off the side. Any suggestions to keep the epoxy on the edge of the wood round?
Going to start using this soon as I just got my order..........but my question is...why don't you use a bigger stick in that big tub when you are mixing?
I sure wish I had of watched this video before doing my pour...I got mega bubbles from air coming out of the wood. My wife ran the heat gun and scorched the epoxy...so I just finished sanding it all back down to bare wood. At least I now have a sealer coat that should limit my bubbles this time. As he said...you DON'T want to be sanding it all off again. Major PITA and oh what a mess...white dust everywhere in my shop now from the belt sanding the epoxy off with 80grit belts. Now that this great tutorial has been viewed by me, I feel like I'll be an expert on the 2nd attempt! Lol
A notch trowel (square preferred) is best used to evenly spread the Epoxy on the table not a spreader. I leave my try to clean surface or in the cup to dry, I never clean it. Instead I break up the excess epoxy when it gets too thick I’ve never use a sponge brush instead I’ve always used a throwaway brush to wipe the sides. As shown a spreader is best used to scrape the sides continuously to remove excess drips. Do not use a heat gun to pop bubbles. Dirt can fall from the cord or the cord can though and contaminate the work. Instead use a propane torch. Also it’s a good idea to keep a pick or something pick like handy in case a hair it speck of dirt lands in you work. You can scoop it out earlier, it’s easy trust me.
Hi Sandi! It depends on the project, but our coverage calculator helps! You can use it by measuring the length, width, and depth of your project in inches and plugging those numbers into the resin calculator. We suggest you round up to give yourself a little extra epoxy to work with. If in doubt, let us know the dimensions and we can check for you. Calculator Link: www.upstartepoxy.com/pages/epoxy-calculator
What do I do if I applied the epoxy over uncured water-based stain? I have lots of divots in the first seal coat. Do i need to sand down to wood or can i salvage it somehow?
It is fixable, do not worry! Whether your divots occurred during the pouring process of your surfaces, or afterwards due to a soft cure, the solution is always to pour another coat of epoxy. You can pour directly over the previous epoxy pour within 24 hours of the first pour. After that, you will need to sand the surface with a 220 or 320 grit sandpaper lightly to create a chemical bond.
Hi, when you use Table Top Epoxy for a surface cover like in the video, only the sides are not 2 inches but about 10-15 inches can be done in the same method of brushing the liquid material? Will it work? Or there is another method recommended. Thanks
Yes, it should work the same as long the recommended mixing ratio and pour depth is maintained. Just make sure that you extra mixture to cover the sides.
This was a great tutorial, thank you. Question, I plan on putting an epoxy coating on top of a coffee table that has a latex paint pour on the surface. Any suggestions on using the Upstart Epoxy product on this project? Thank you for any feedback and/or suggestions. ~SK
As long as it's not oil-based, you'll be able to pour on paints/finishes/etc no problem. For some things like artwork, many people spray/brush on a sealant before epoxy.
All epoxies yellow over time when exposed to UV light and the more intense the sunlight the faster the yellowing process. As long as it's indoors or semi indoors you won't have a problem!
Hi David! Epoxy burns when subjected to direct heat but rarely melts! Our epoxy is heat resistant up to 120 degrees fahrenheit. It's water resistant but can be prone to abrasions.
Thanks for the video, I am making some small outdoor tables having tiles and inlayed wood. Using tiles it is not smooth so a drink glass may not be stable. I was thinking of using Upstart but wonder if using it over tiles or for outdoor use (Arizona heat) us a good idea.
Hi Grateful Zugore! Thanks for watching our video! Upstart Epoxy is best used for indoors and semi-indoors applications, but anything outside is not rated for. While it is UV resistant, prolonged exposure to the sun will cause it to yellow and may chalk when exposed to direct sunlight for extended periods of time.
If you’re only pouring to cover the exterior… why calculate the volume? I know it’s going to be a bit more due to absorption but I’d like to know why not calculate the area?
Upstart Tabletop Epoxy 👉 www.upstartepoxy.com/products/epoxy-resin-table-top/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube
Upstart Deep Pour Epoxy 👉www.upstartepoxy.com/products/deep-pour-epoxy-resin/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube
Easy to Use Epoxy Calculator 👉 www.upstartepoxy.com/pages/epoxy-calculator/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube
ua-cam.com/users/sgaming/emoji/7ff574f2/emoji_u1f449.png
This video is a good argument for the metric system.
Was it that hard for you to understand?
yeah, pretty funny watching him use imperial 1/16 multiplied by decimal numbers then the complication of cubic inches to ounces to gallons 😜
@@ZeldaplusSmallville its not hard, its just the metric is 10x easy
@@MaximaToluene idk why USA gotta be different tbh
Imperial by itself is the best argument lmao
It's nice that you didn't need to do the "flood coat", but now none of us know how to do it.
Exactly
Really good video. One minor (lighthearted) point……use millimetres/litres and save loads of time on calculations and conversions 😀
Ha I completely agree then you don't need a browser just a calculator !!
Inches can be calculated in decimals instead of fractions. It’s pretty simple.
One square ounce per cubic millifoot for every inch of square centimeter
@@JerzyBoy973 nothing about the imperial system is simple.
@@JerzyBoy973Cool. It's almost like there are multiple ways to calculate things.
Just did my first table I built for a Kitchen nook, first time doing anything like this and man the first 2 coats came out good the 3rd messed up for some reason so I sanded it down lightly with 220 grit, pour the last or 4th coat and it came out super clean looks great worth every penny I spent to do it. The hardest part was making sure I had everything I needed the having everything ready to use. Make sure you have really good lighting so you can see any imperfection so you can smooth them out. And walk around it looking from all sides or you might miss something. Have you heat gun plugged in and ready to pick up on the fly because time goes by fast then you think when you are trying to smooth it out then brushing the sides and then taking your heat gun to blow on it to get those tiny little bubles out. Funny thing was I didn't even see the buble till I put the heat on it. But the bubles come up and pop just as sweet as you please. Very good product. I only poured about 1/4 inch at a time so a thin coat and it worked great. Mine ended up being about 1 inch thick total. Wish I could post a photo because mine came out awesome and this was my first time doing this.
Glad your project went well! Thanks for watching
I've done this before and my table came out great but because my memory is like a sieve, I thank you for your video as a good reminder. brilliant work and thanks. Rob
Thank you so much for the kind words, Rob! Glad to be of help!🥰
Will this adhere to wood stain?
Thank you for a thorough complete video. I’ve watched dozens and this is the ONLY ONE that is thorough and easy to understand and follow. Your video has given the confidence that I truly can do it on my own. The table I’m covering is the precise same as yours. I will upload my video when I start. The only difference is that I want to paint my table white with gold streaks somehow prior to pouring the epoxy
You're very welcome! Please share your project when it's finished!
Best guide in UA-cam kudos for the great work covers all the details!!!
Thank you very much, Emilio!
Looks like glass that’s what I want I’m doing a console table smaller.. beautiful 🤩 ❤❤❤ I’ll be ordering and it self leveling 👍🏾
Do you have a marine epoxy product as well for outdoor projects?
Best video I’ve seen on tictok or UA-cam !!! Thank you Very informative! You’ve gained a sub sir !!
All that math and yet half the pour went over the edge
😂
Question. The project I have in mind is for a computer desk with a top just the one in the video. Only I have all these mtg art cards that I wanted to put under the epoxy. For reference, They’re pretty much trading cards, same thickness. The final result being a tabletop I can see all the cards on. Is this a viable option with this product? If so how would I go about it?
Love this video! I'm preparing to do my first table top. Which type of polyurethane did you use to seal the under side? Water based or oil based?
Doesn't matter if you're just sealing the bare wood underneath. But, in my experience oil based adheres better with epoxy. I've used oil based polyurethane many many times as a seal coat, lightly sand it with 220 grit when fully dry (a day or two), and then do my epoxy flood coat. Did my cedar slab breakfast bar that way 7 years ago and it still looks brand new.
Hey you are a real teacher! Thank you!
Super detailed and easy to understand. Thank you.
Great tutorial! When doing table top like this, do we need to sand or buff after the epoxy has cured?
Yes! You need to sand it after it has cured and then polish it as needed.
Hi @@Rotor-Sims! It really depends on you. If you're okay with the outcome of the cured epoxy then you have the option not to sand and polish it. However, if you're seeing any imperfections you can fix it by doing so.
If your board HAS polyurathine do ya need to sand out or can it be POORED OVER
Question, I want to place a sports decal on my mancave table. I was thinking I would use this product to put down one layer, place the decal over the top, and then place another layer over the decal. Would that work?
Great video. Explanations & easy to understand. Thank you.
You are such a natural
I am wanting to do a covered pool bar that has laminate. Can I use this product?
My countertops came out really great. your detail and method was far superior to others and worked like a charm. Thank you
Whoa! Thank you for sharing! Glad that you loved the outcome, Robert!😍
thank you for the great video. Answered all of my product questions. Going to use it this weekend for the first time. Feeling confident!
Hi Lisa, thank you for watching! That's what we're here for. Keep creating awesome projects!! 🙌
hello; what notch size trowel did you used ? thanks
This is very good. Well explained with tips and cautions. Not 50 minutes of talking and 10 minutes of doing like most youtubers.
Thanks for watching, James!
Just finished doing an old piece of sycamore with lots of bug holes and character, I was amazed how long tiny bubbles kept rising but the heat gun took care of them with no problem. This video made the process very easy. Can you tell me more about the final sanding/polishing please? I don't see it on the website.
Hi Brian! We're glad our tutorial made your process very easy :) Once your piece is cured, you can lightly sand it with an 80 grit and apply a furniture oil if you want a not-so-glossy finish. if you like a glossy one, you can use our Supergloss Coating for its topcoat.
Going to do a dining room wood table where I stain the wood different colors before usually doing oil-based polyurethane as a top coat but because this is going to be a dining table and not coffee or end table I need to finish it with a something that can make the top smooth. Will the oil polyurethane or stain cause problems with the epoxy. I usually use the oil based poly because it yellows the wood and gives it an older appearance. Also if the oil based poly would cause a problem and I just go with the epoxy for the top sealer will the oil based stains I used on the wood cause a problem? Thanks.
Could you polyurethane the bottom first and then pour your seal/flood coat on top?
Wondering the same thing makes sense
so how long does it take to reach full hardness and is it suitable for kitchen benchtops?
Hey can this product Upstart epoxy be used on my bed room floors
What great use of product.
Once gallon foil is open how long doni have to use if not mixed?
Wow, that looks beautiful. Thanks for all the advice.
Can I use a silicone spatula to stir? I like the idea of using a longer implement for larger buckets.
Hey Bev Wolf, yes you can!
Thank you for this outstanding video.
Thanks for watching!
This video is so helpful thank you so much
Thank you, Amy! We're glad you found our video helpful.
How long did you wait for it to dry before you use the heat gun 💯
Thanks for posting this! super helpful and thorough!
What size notch trowel do you use?
So would u recommend using this product for the top of a workbench?? Can you tape the edges of the top to reduce waste? How thick can I go with this product?
can you epoxy both the top and bottom of the top so it has a even coat on both sides to prevent warping?
Can an epoxy be used over a painted table?
Yes, epoxy can be used over a painted table, but there are some important steps and considerations to ensure proper adhesion and a smooth finish:
Surface Preparation:
Ensure the paint is fully cured. Different paints have different curing times, so refer to the manufacturer's instructions.
Lightly sand the painted surface with fine-grit sandpaper (e.g., 220 grit) to create a slightly rough surface. This helps the epoxy adhere better.
Clean the surface thoroughly to remove any dust, grease, or contaminants. Use a lint-free cloth and a suitable cleaner (like isopropyl alcohol) to wipe down the surface.
Sealing the Surface:
If the painted surface is porous or has any texture, consider applying a thin seal coat of epoxy first. This helps to prevent air bubbles from forming in the final coat.
Is that a protective epoxy resin rhe one u used?
Yes our tabletop epoxy creates a protective coating. You can find it here! www.upstartepoxy.com/products/epoxy-resin-table-top/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube
Is this a maintainable surface? Like if used as a work surface, can you just brush on a thin new coat every few years?
hi there, I enjoyed the video. My question is this, what if I wanted to stain the table top then use this epoxy? Will it still bind? Still be without bubbles?
Glad you enjoyed the video! Yes you can use our table top epoxy www.upstartepoxy.com/products/epoxy-resin-table-top/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube on top of a stain!
Here are some tips and tricks to make sure it comes out the way you want it.
1. Choose the Right Stain
Compatibility: Use a stain that is compatible with epoxy resin. Oil-based stains are commonly used, but they must be fully cured before applying epoxy. Water-based stains are also an option and may dry faster and cure in a way that's more compatible with epoxy application.
2. Properly Prepare the Surface
Sanding: Before staining, sand the tabletop thoroughly to ensure a smooth surface. Start with a coarser grit and work your way up to a finer grit for a smooth finish.
Clean: Ensure the surface is clean and free of dust, grease, or any residue that could interfere with stain adhesion and later, the epoxy's ability to bind to the stained surface.
3. Apply the Stain Correctly
Even Application: Apply the stain evenly according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use a brush, rag, or sponge for application and wipe away excess stain to avoid puddles or uneven areas.
Cure Time: Allow the stain to cure fully. This is crucial. The curing time can vary significantly depending on the type of stain, the application thickness, and environmental conditions. Oil-based stains, in particular, may require longer to cure fully (often several days to a week).
4. Seal the Stain (Optional)
Sealer Application: You can apply a sealer after the stain has cured and before the epoxy. This step can help seal the stain, preventing it from interacting with the epoxy and also can aid in reducing the chances of bubbles forming. If you choose to use a sealer, ensure it is fully cured and compatible with both the stain and the epoxy resin.
5. Apply Epoxy
Bubble Prevention: After ensuring the stained surface is fully cured and prepared, mix and pour the epoxy. To avoid bubbles, pour slowly and carefully. Use a heat gun or torch to gently heat the surface of the epoxy after pouring to pop any bubbles that do form.
Can you use a blow-dryer to take out the bubbles?
Yes you can!
That’s a healthy first pour!
Great detail for someone looking to do this project for this first time. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful!
I am planning on making a craft table and really want it to be spectacular. I plan on painting the table top and then doing an acrylic stencil in the corners. Will the epoxy lift the table paint or the acrylic paint used for the stencil?
You will need to give it a good time to cure. I just watched a guy use epoxy to seal acrylic paintings but he had let them cure for 4 weeks
Just wondering, if you are short on the amount of part A and part B, would it be better to pour in the part A and then measure the additional amount then do the same with part B? Brand new waiting on my first order, figure it must be a great product coming from Wisconsin!.
Excellent coverage of the math part of the process 👍.
No wood surface prep (sanding - tac-cloth - alcohol lint free wipe , filtered water damp cloth "grain pop"-repeat ONCE sand before , between and after ) and no Moisture content testing to validate long term coating survival for moisture egress under the coating side , even if most of it will exit the exposed under surface . Once its "cured" , a light under coating CAN prevent moisture In-TAKE , but that's not a likely SHORT TERM problem for air-conditioned environments👍.
For ultimate long-term discoloration , no mention of UV or other additives already in the product or available as add-ins .
Promising a 2nd-pour even if its not "really necessary" _this time_ or mention of the best TIMING - *just ahead of final solidifying of the 1st layer* , and while this really is a *good* how-2 , its just a _bit_ incomplete .
Every one of these steps CAN contribute to LONGEVITY of an EXCELLENT result , but truthfully, what you DO show seems just about RIGHT for a GOOD beginning effort !
Do you have a more detailed video of the process as I am an overthinker and would love to see the process more detailed and with anything that might be missing
What you missed in the video is if you do need to do a flood coat after the seal coat, what has to happen to the table to prepare it for the Flood Coat, aka, sand with 120 gritt to give the flood coat something to adhere to, after cleaning off residue from sanding.
If I was doing a floor what can I use as a primer? Or base coat..
Hello! Any water based products would work great, we just don't suggest oil based.
Nice video . Can i use this on a table top where we have hot dinner plates on ????
Very helpful! Thank you!
Glad you found it helpful! Thank you, Scott!
When applying the second layer of epoxy what grit of sand paper is best for scuffing up the seal coat for the best adhesion with the final pour
Excellent explanation and demonstration 👍
Thank you so much!
Can you do this process outside in a carport
How strong is the odor after applying? How long does it take to be dry to the touch and then dry to actually be usable?
Great video! How do I pour over a paper design. I want the resin to overlap the paper and wood surface.
Thank you! You would have to seal your paper first as what you should do with the wood surface as both materials are porous. Once sealed, you may pour your epoxy just like that one on the video. ;)
is 1/16" thick enough to be durable (Just the seal coat)? Mine can out decent with just one or two small bubbles. Is it worth adding a flood coat?
What do I do if I have dust particles left on the surface? How to avoid this problem? Thanks you for answer.
Awesome video thank you!
Thanks for watching, Joe!
Thank you for the video
Thanks for watching!
Great Job
Thank you very much, Rocky!🥰
I want to Table Top Expoxy a vintage 5 panel door. That means some places it will be up to 1/4 in deep. I would like it to be all one level. Can this product do that?
Hello Pati, our Table Top is designed for 1/8" layers. You can pour an additional 1/8 layer if it's 1/4" deep.
Did you complete this project? This is exactly what my plan is! I don’t want to sand it at all. Did you put epoxy into the center of each panel to “fill” it first, before coating the whole door? Did you leave the hardware on the door? How did yours turn out?
I want to epoxy a 24 in wood round. Do I use the same measurements you did for a rectangle table for my wood round? The 1/16 and 1/8 x H x W then convert those numbers to US ounces?
Hi Jeremy! For a round surface, you will need to calculate the radius. Since you have 24" as your diameter, you can divide it by 2 to calculate the radius.
Next is to calculate volume in cubic inches. To do this, it's going to be (radius squared) X pi (or, 3.14159265) x (desired epoxy coating thickness). Divide by 1.805 to convert cubic inch volume to US fluid ounces. To convert ounces to gallons, divide by 128.
Hope this helps!
@@upstartepoxy4804 Thank you for formula. Is it normal for me to use a heat gun for 15 minutes? Most of it was on the side of the wood round, not so much the flat part of the wood. The side of the round was difficult to keep the epoxy to stay as it dripped off the side. Any suggestions to keep the epoxy on the edge of the wood round?
@@JJ-fg4wp It depends but be careful not to overheat, scorch or burn the epoxy. Periodically check for additional bubbles and remove as needed.
Going to start using this soon as I just got my order..........but my question is...why don't you use a bigger stick in that big tub when you are mixing?
Hey Kristi! We used a smaller stick so we don't introduce lots of bubbles when mixing! Thanks for watching!!
Came to watch epoxy be poured… learned some math in the process!
can you use water based poly as a seal coat?
Yes, you can. Water-based polyurethane won't cause problems when applied over epoxy resin coatings.
How long to wait for the final coat?
Very helpful, Thankyou!
I sure wish I had of watched this video before doing my pour...I got mega bubbles from air coming out of the wood. My wife ran the heat gun and scorched the epoxy...so I just finished sanding it all back down to bare wood. At least I now have a sealer coat that should limit my bubbles this time. As he said...you DON'T want to be sanding it all off again. Major PITA and oh what a mess...white dust everywhere in my shop now from the belt sanding the epoxy off with 80grit belts. Now that this great tutorial has been viewed by me, I feel like I'll be an expert on the 2nd attempt! Lol
Very nice im welling to this
What temperature for heat gun please?
Never thought to legit calculate the amount per pour. Thank you greatly upstart epoxy
We're thrilled that you found our calculator helpful! Thanks so much for your support, Chad! We look forward to seeing your projects :)
Good job thanx for the info
Always glad to help!😊😊
I’m wondering, to save on Epoxy, if a normal wood sealer would work as an undercoat. Then sand lightly and complete with an epoxy pour.
Is a heat gun required? Or could you instead just wait longer on the dry process?
try blow dryer with full heat and low fan speed
What sealant will you use on the bottom part?
You can use the same sealant you use. We would recommend the Table top epoxy.
how long after applying the first coat do you wait to apply the heat gun for bubbles?
You can torch them as soon as you can see the bubbles.
Can it be used to coat tumblers?
Yes! It's created to coat tumblers!
how do you do 2 sides of a board, or 4 sides to a block ?
Hey Sharon! You will want to let the top side cure first before coating the underside of it. For the other sides, you can brush coat them :)
A notch trowel (square preferred) is best used to evenly spread the Epoxy on the table not a spreader. I leave my try to clean surface or in the cup to dry, I never clean it. Instead I break up the excess epoxy when it gets too thick
I’ve never use a sponge brush instead I’ve always used a throwaway brush to wipe the sides.
As shown a spreader is best used to scrape the sides continuously to remove excess drips.
Do not use a heat gun to pop bubbles. Dirt can fall from the cord or the cord can though and contaminate the work.
Instead use a propane torch.
Also it’s a good idea to keep a pick or something pick like handy in case a hair it speck of dirt lands in you work. You can scoop it out earlier, it’s easy trust me.
Great tips!
What’s those things called holding the table up off the table
Those are risers, Janell. You can actually use anything sturdy to support your table.
Will this hold up on bathroom countertops?
Yes! Definitely. It's what our Table Top is made for - countertops!
i have a 45x45 table top im trying to epoxy ,what amount would i need?
Hi Sandi! It depends on the project, but our coverage calculator helps! You can use it by measuring the length, width, and depth of your project in inches and plugging those numbers into the resin calculator. We suggest you round up to give yourself a little extra epoxy to work with. If in doubt, let us know the dimensions and we can check for you. Calculator Link: www.upstartepoxy.com/pages/epoxy-calculator
What do I do if I applied the epoxy over uncured water-based stain? I have lots of divots in the first seal coat. Do i need to sand down to wood or can i salvage it somehow?
It is fixable, do not worry! Whether your divots occurred during the pouring process of your surfaces, or afterwards due to a soft cure, the solution is always to pour another coat of epoxy. You can pour directly over the previous epoxy pour within 24 hours of the first pour. After that, you will need to sand the surface with a 220 or 320 grit sandpaper lightly to create a chemical bond.
Is it water based? Or solvent based?
Hi, when you use Table Top Epoxy for a surface cover like in the video, only the sides are not 2 inches but about 10-15 inches can be done in the same method of brushing the liquid material? Will it work? Or there is another method recommended.
Thanks
Yes, it should work the same as long the recommended mixing ratio and pour depth is maintained. Just make sure that you extra mixture to cover the sides.
Can you put this epoxy over a painted table top with decals on it
As long as it is not an oil-based paint, then you should be good.
This was a great tutorial, thank you. Question, I plan on putting an epoxy coating on top of a coffee table that has a latex paint pour on the surface. Any suggestions on using the Upstart Epoxy product on this project? Thank you for any feedback and/or suggestions.
~SK
As long as it's not oil-based, you'll be able to pour on paints/finishes/etc no problem. For some things like artwork, many people spray/brush on a sealant before epoxy.
Over time will it turn a yellow hue?
All epoxies yellow over time when exposed to UV light and the more intense the sunlight the faster the yellowing process. As long as it's indoors or semi indoors you won't have a problem!
@@upstartepoxy4804 thanks great job on the workbench
How resistant is it to heat , water and scratches
Hi David! Epoxy burns when subjected to direct heat but rarely melts! Our epoxy is heat resistant up to 120 degrees fahrenheit. It's water resistant but can be prone to abrasions.
Thank you for getting a bigger stick😁
Is there anyone local in the Chicago area doing this as a service?
Thanks for the video, I am making some small outdoor tables having tiles and inlayed wood. Using tiles it is not smooth so a drink glass may not be stable. I was thinking of using Upstart but wonder if using it over tiles or for outdoor use (Arizona heat) us a good idea.
Hi Grateful Zugore! Thanks for watching our video! Upstart Epoxy is best used for indoors and semi-indoors applications, but anything outside is not rated for. While it is UV resistant, prolonged exposure to the sun will cause it to yellow and may chalk when exposed to direct sunlight for extended periods of time.
If you’re only pouring to cover the exterior… why calculate the volume? I know it’s going to be a bit more due to absorption but I’d like to know why not calculate the area?
Are you able to pour the epoxy over stained wood?
Yes! As long the stain is not oil-based. If it is, you would need to sand it.
Wish i had known that. 😢