Making a River Table - Start to Finish
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- Опубліковано 31 жов 2020
- This is a river table tutorial that covers everything from selecting your slab of wood to how to get a flawless epoxy finish.
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Some of the products used in making this table:
Stone Coat Countertops Stone Coat Epoxy we used (heat and yellowing resistant) for the seal coats and top final flood coat can be found using this link: amzn.to/481NVAr
Stone Coat Countertops Super Cast Epoxy (designed to be poured over 3/4" and up to 2" in a single pour) used on the river can be found using this link: amzn.to/3pgtGJN
This is the epoxy typically used to seal the edges of the boards before pouring the river as well as to fill holes and voids (Stone Coat Countertops). amzn.to/37dCqsG
Metallic powder additive used with the super cast epoxy amzn.to/3oec7sy
Router bit used for planing the slab amzn.to/3sSV2Yv
Quality brush used to chop out the epoxy flood coat amzn.to/39cfNGM
or if you are planning on doing a couple epoxy projects or working with bark on, I suggest this bulk pack of 12 (you save over $1 per brush) amzn.to/3qMgegR
Burn in wax sticks used to fill stubborn pinholes between seal coats of epoxy amzn.to/3a1GQny and amzn.to/3c6f7Vp
You can keep reusing your trowel by simply letting the epoxy drain off the square notches. This 1/8 x 1/8 x 1/8 square notch trowel is the size you need for the flood coat amzn.to/2M0SiYv
In this video I use this 2-1/4 hp Dewalt Router with a fixed base - this link is to kit I bought (it includes the same router with the fixed base and an additional plunging base - which has many applications) amzn.to/36bMjqy
When using a 1:1 ratio epoxy, measuring your amounts is extremely important. Here is the brand of mixing cup I trust and has never let me down amzn.to/3iGUHU0
I use Diablo 5" random orbital sanding discs (I use different grits, working my way up to 220 - there is no need to go beyond 220 grit when using epoxy) amzn.to/2MizlAv
With the exception of a little hand sanding, I use this Dewalt Random Orbital Sander amzn.to/3iJVxzx
This is an epoxy cleaner which I use before delivering any epoxy product to a client. It also contains an epoxy polish to help maintain your finish. amzn.to/3iHRYd6
These are the metal sanding disks I use on my 4 1/2 grinder with the grinder conversion attachment. I use 50 grit. amzn.to/3jTTB89
To remove router lines, excess epoxy, and/or hardened epoxy drips, I use this conversion grinder attachment on my 4 1/2 grinder and attach low grit metal sanding disks. amzn.to/3pueJ5Y
Use this self igniting propane torch to pop air bubbles. amzn.to/34yBXzV
I love that greenstone turquoise color y’all chose it’s brilliant.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I’ve been doing Stainglass for 20 years and have enjoyed it. I was introduced to your work just a few days ago. I’ve been watching all that you have been producing but I’m still having some issues with all my work and my tools and have been for Stainglass. Just went out and bought a handsaw, a router, and router table. This is almost the amount of tools that I have. I have very little money and trying to find out what I could use that would do the job but be less of a chore due to the price. I retired and will have more time to do such things. I’ve been in the ministry for 50 years and would love to give items to friends that I have met in those years.
What sort of issues are you having?
Wow that came out beautiful. Nice to see someone taking pride in their work.
Thank you so much!
Excellent job, beautiful table top! I sure hope my first attempt at making on of these tables turns out as good as this.
Good luck and thanks for watching!
Excellent job guys! I love it how you explain the process step by step especially if you're beginning and/or beginners like myself. I thank you for doing a awesome job ! I would like to learn on how to do ocean river tables. Hopefully, both of you can do a video on that. Again, thank you for doing a fantastic review
Thank you for watching!
Stonecoat Countertops has a huge number of videos on Ocean Tables and even floors like one in Hawaii.
That is just amazing!! What a masterpiece!!
Thanks for watching!
Wow, Thats really high quality work! Fascinating to watch it come to be, step by step!
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Excellent presentation, i’ll be looking for your next installment. Well done!
Thank you very much!
Really nice. Great job. I’m getting ready for my 1st table
Thanks for watching and good luck with your table!
I really like that green with pearl flake in it awesome job also I like how they adapt and improvised their plainer table genius 🤯
Glad you enjoyed it…I agree…love that color!
You guys did a beautiful job on this, I hope to do one someday in the not too distant future!
Thank you! Good luck!
Subbed ! Love your laid back vibe with no music to ruin it. Nice early Saturday morning watch this was. Came out amazing too. Great job mate, and cousin Eddie 👏🏼
Thanks for the sub and for watching! Cousin Eddie and I appreciate it!
What a beautiful table! I just love it!
Thank you! It’s for sale by the way...
Wow brothers, you did a great job!
Looks Amazing!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Very very interesting indeed , I want to learn how to do this . Absolutely beautiful
Thanks for watching!
Looks great. And an awesome job explaining the process. 😊
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Great work! That’s so beautiful. ❤️
Thank you!
Came out awesome guys! Love that.
Thank you!
I am about to embark on such an adventure! Will start on a smaller scale, so as to get a feel for it, and at the same time, see the associated cost.
You have made a gorgeous table top, and you walk through was excellent. Thank you
I’m glad you found it helpful…thanks for watching and best of luck!
Congratulations for the very well described video, it's a pleasure to listen especially when you explain the "why" of the different steps, wish more people would do that 👏🏻👏🏻💪🏼
Much appreciated…glad you found it useful!
Nice work guys, looking forward to seeing more 👌
Thanks for watching!
I'm definitely will try this out! Best video of how to.
Thank you…glad you found it helpful!
Great tutorial. Your narration was spot on. Thanks for speaking in clear English ;) Nice shop too. Your Cousin Eddie was my job, my husband and I had a cabinet job on the side for 30 years. Mica is mesmerizing, isn't it? The color was beautiful and the reflective flakes makes it exceptional. Oh I miss the smell of wood and the anticipation of what it will turn out to be ;) Thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much!
Truly a great piece u guys turned out, thanks so much for the video, i will be watching ur videos for more nice jobs from ur shop
Thank you and thanks for watching! Much appreciated!
thanks for the detailed information on your build. wow what a great product. (with hand tools no less)
Much appreciated!
A genius at work very beautiful well done 👍
Thank you!
great work mate! thank you for sharing!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Fantastic Video you guys. Thanks so much. VERY helpful..
Glad you enjoyed it…thanks for watching!
Fantastic work!!
Thank you!
Great work, really inspiring.
Thank you very much!
Extreme beautiful table. Well done!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!
Great tip on the angle grinder.
Yes, that’s a total game changer! Thanks for watching!
Greate idea to finish with epoxy!!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
NIce work guys.. some good helpful tips too ..looks great.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Really well done video...big help, thank you
You’re welcome and thanks for watching!
Gorgeous!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I LOVE the color!
Thanks for saying so and thanks for watching!
Wow nice job guys.. Beautiful
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Instead of using house wrap tape,we use contact paper...worked perfect...thank for the video.!! GREAT work guys...also you can use dish soap as a mold release..
Good tips!
Wow I love the details very semitrical
Glad you enjoyed it…thanks for watching!
Beautiful work
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Beautiful!
Thank you!
Beautiful job.
Thanks for watching!
Looks nice. The first one is a true learning experience. Personally I prefer these river tables with clear epoxy and a pebble bottom. Throw a few accent stones or other items in for a personal touch.
Thanks for watching!
This deserves at least a million views if not more!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Fantastic. My next project.
Awesome! Best of luck!
Looks great wow 😯
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I enjoyed watching this!
You should research C channels with slotted holes . Epoxying metal bars into the bottom of the table is sure to lead to expansion and contraction issues later on. Also, using a regular Festool sander, I have no issues getting the router lines out. May be a bit safer that way. Good luck!
Hello! Why do metal bars lead to expansion issues? I got the idea from Stone Coat Countertops who has made these professionally for some time now...so I’m curious. What grit did you use with your festool sander? I have used one but, perhaps did not have a low enough grit because I could still see some router lines lightly show after epoxying on other projects. Thanks!
Wow wow that look so good man 👍
Thank you!
Wow...Thanks for sharing !
Thanks for watching!
Absolutely gorgeous. I'll take 7
Where would you like them delivered?
@@northernridgedesigns you know the place
Beautiful....nice job
Thank you!
Nice work!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Excellent in techniques, video work, and presentation. Thanks for not putting in a soundtrack of teenager music.
Haha I will never put on a teenager soundtrack! Thanks for watching!
Beautiful
Thank you!
Sorry to hear about your cousin Eddy.. the river table looks amazing..
Thanks for watching!
Its really nice work .
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Super good job 👍.
Thank you!
Wow beautiful
Thank you!
Amazing!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Wow -- how awesome to have a partner that's right there with you on the project! :D
Gotta love Cousin Eddie!
another great product from my homies in Michigan
Haha thank you and thanks for watching!
Fantastic video thanks 🤠
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Super blat świetny pomysł pozdrawiam
You said it!
Using the sanding disk was brilliant. I personally think 60 grit was a little too abrasive so ill be buying 80 or 120 grit if I can find it. The router bit lines disappeared on my 18 inch by 24 inch table in 15 seconds
I agree on some woods…it seems like the lines are very stubborn on oak! Thanks for watching!
It's better calling him Cousin Eddy rather than calling him Cousin It! Ha ha ha ha 😁 Like the video. Especially like the torching every 1/4". And I haven't ever heard of adding the tubing. Makes perfect sense.
Haha glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching!
Sorry for your loss 🙏🏾
Cousin Eddie is still around…just a poor choice in wording…but thank you!
beautiful
Thank you and thank you for watching!
@@northernridgedesigns we just made our first river table cutting boards today. they will take a few days to set. we did film it. feel free to come laugh at us
We watched your video for instruction and inspiration. You did a great job at both :)
Nicely done for your first river table. If you are successful in getting more contracts to build these tables it might be advantageous to purchase a drum sander.....makes life faster and easier. Well done
For sure a drum sander would be great…they are definitely time savers! Thanks for watching!
Getting the thumbs up/subscribe/engage out of the way, because my sense of WTF is at max. Gorgeous project and thanks for sharing!
Haha thank you for watching!
beautiful table, can't wait to try it. can i ask how you manage treating the bottom of the table? is it the same finish all over, or is the bottom left rough?
I usually don’t treat the bottom, but it depends if n different variables. I usually embed metal tubing to fight the warping. Thanks for watching!
About to attempt my very first Madrone table top project
Very cool...good luck!
Length x width x depth = epoxy needed.. Beautiful table.. Nice job
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Gentlemen, thank you so much for making this video. I've made several other smaller epoxy pour over projects using the suggested amount from the manufacturer and it was always way too much. Besides the waste and the cost that goes with it, it would cause sags on the edges because it would continue to self-level for hours all the time running over the edge. I tried several things to address it and the manufacturer was no help. It just seemed like there was just too much epoxy. I tried your 3oz. per Sqft. calculation, and it worked "PERFECTLY"! The manufacturers recommended amount came out to 10oz per square foot??? I can tell you that about 1/3 would end up on the floor. It wouldn't be that bad if the edges were perfect, but they aren't.
The square notch trowel is a stroke of genius as well!
Thank you and all the best!
Chuck
So glad you found the way we presented the information helpful! Best of luck!
I do have one question though, where can I get me a "Cousin Eddy"?
Don't get me wrong, my wife is an immense help, but man, Cousin Eddy is on it! 👍
And thanks to all the "Cousin Eddy's" out there for having our backs! 😎
All the Best, Chuck
@@toolchuck you can’t replace a Cousin Eddy!
How do handle the drips on the underside of the project?? We did a concrete river bed hearth with epoxy finish and had to sand down the annoying drips on the bottom. Getting ready to make a river bed bar top but don’t want those drips to deal with.
Run a 1" or wider strip of blue painters' tape underneath the edge before pouring. There are many videos on it.
All the Best, Chuck
Try a no 7 jointer for cleaning up ridges from the spoilboard bit
Good idea!
very nice I am from the Midland area Richland Township Hemlock MI a fellow Michigander
Thank you and thanks for watching! I had a good time at the Farmer’s Tavern once!
Just got into woodworking again after retiring from the military and I came across this video. It is beautifully put together and informative, so thank you for that! I have a question about the drips on the underside of the table after your flooding coat. How do you get those drips smoothed down? Do you wait a few hours for the coat to harden up a bit? Or do you wipe them as they form until they form no more? Thanks again!
Great question. If time allows, I’ll scrape the bottom with an old credit card or something like that about 4 hours after pouring. If I have to sand a bunch of drips, I’ll use a 4 1/2 grinder with a metal sanding disc and then sand smooth. Thanks for watching and good luck with your reconnection to wood working!
This is so nice. It was a very straightforward video to follow. Where do you get the router sledge from? I’m guessing you could make this?
I’m glad you found it helpful! I made that router sled from some left of mdf board and used a keep jig. Thanks for watching!
Hi guys...absolutely stunning table, beautifully made. Congratulations from across the 'pond'.
I noted that you placed metal bars under the table to counter any warping or movement that may occur, and others have commented that the way you did this was incorrect.
This leaves me a little confused. My understanding of why movement occurs in wood is because of changes in the wood's moisture content brought on by fluctuations in relative humidity.
As the wood in your table has been encapsulated with resin, I cannot see how any changes in humidity could affect the timber as the pores in the wood have been effectively sealed with impermeable resin and can no longer take on (or release) any moisture. Of course I stand to be corrected, but I can't see why any type of 'anti-movement' bars are required at all.
Thank you for the compliments. Most of the people that comment that it is done wrong, feel they have to comment to make themselves feel right…when most have no idea what they’re talking about. From my own experience the embedded bars work….there are other ways to do it, such as c channel, but the bars do work. You’re right, relative humidity and temperature changes can make wood move. All wood moves, but if the wood has reached the equilibrium moisture level, movement should be minimal. This table was not sealed on the bottom, as from my experience I felt it was not necessary due to the bracing and how the top was being secured. Even if the slab was completely encapsulated, I feel temperature changes could still cause the wood to swell and shrink (move). Thank you for watching!
cousin eddie is the goat
Truly!
Love your work, thanks for the video. One question, is it a good idea not to allow the wood to expand and contract? I've always been taught that something will give up and break in that case... curious about your comment.
My thoughts are wood is going to expand and contract if it wants to and there is no way to totally stop it. In these large slabs it can be drastic. In my experience the best things you can do to mitigate it is make sure the wood reaches equilibrium moisture and embed supports. Of course this is all IMHO. Thanks for watching!
I was wondering if there were any suggestions on a specific quick ceiling epoxy for the edges. Thank you.
Good question! I like and sometimes use Stone Coat Countertop Quick Coat Epoxy..,sets up pretty quickly and is strong. Thanks for watching!
Bravo.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Гарна робота!
Thanks for watching!
nice job
Thank you!
Love it, what kind of isolation do you use before mounting the wood in the form, can I use any tape or any other common material. I'm in Brazil and I don't recofnze that brand tape, thanks.
Great questions! With this sort of river table there was no need to calm the dust because you would never see it in the green river. When I did the flood coat over everything that’s a different story…you want to be very dust conscious. That is house wrap that I used…I have heard of people using regular packing tape, but I have never tried it so I can’t say for sure.
could also use vacuum on the back side to pull the air down and the epoxy in
in fiberglass they vacuum bag the whole thing
Haha thanks for watching!
WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!
Goodwork
Thank you!
Awesome job on the table! What "quick coat" epoxy did you use to seal the live edges before you put them in the form?
Thank you!
The quick coat was Stone Coat Countertops Quick Coat Epoxy. Thanks for watching!
@@northernridgedesigns Thank you!
What is the final matiere that you had added!
Is it the same epoxy used!
And continue its wonderful
Same epoxy for each step…thanks for watching!
I'd love to know how this is holding up? I do this for a living and I don't seal the edges because I WANT the epoxy to soak in, it turned out great.. I love seeing how others do things
I too want the epoxy to soak into the edges…I sealed the edges with epoxy to eliminate the risk of bubbles in the casting epoxy. I sanded the sealed edges so there is still mechanical bond between the sealed edges and casting epoxy. This is my process, but I have seen plenty of people pour right into unsealed wood edges. I think the only time you’d have a problem is when people deal with something like polyurethane and then use casting epoxy…there would be no epoxy soaked into the wood in this case. Best of luck!
@@northernridgedesigns yeah I agree! Well beautiful table! And to many many more!
very cool :)
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Question please.
When doing a live edge, is any of the bark left showing when you are done?.
The table really looks great.
Typically I remove all of the bark. There have been a few instances where the bark was in great shape and the table was getting an epoxy finish, so I left it on…not a problem because the epoxy soaks in and glued it on permanently. Thank you and thanks for watching.
Hy, great job. Can you share what kind of sanding you are using to get rid of router marks at the beginning?? 12.35
For sanding out the router marks, I use 50 grit metal sanding pads on a 4 1/2 grinder. It is very aggressive and doesn’t take long, but it does leave sanding swirl marks that you need to sand out. I start with 60 grit sand paper on a random orbital to remove the grinder swirls. The metal sanding pads also work really well on excess epoxy, such as hardened drips. Thank you for watching!
FWIW: As the wood expands and contracts, there is a good chance you will get cracking as the those metal channels that are glued in won't move. Would have been better to mount it under the table with oversize holes. Depending on the wood specie, you might even want an elongated hole. Generally softwoods will move more than hard woods.
Thanks for watching.
Mike, after you used the grinder with 50 grit did you do further sanding on the piece with a sander before the pour, and it doesnt look like you put too much glue on the piece when you laid it on the tyvek. I am trying to figure out how fine a grit to sand with before the pour.
Yes, I used 60 grit with an orbital sander to sand out the grinder marks and then sanded my way through a progression to 220. I usually only go to 220 for epoxy pours. I also just hit the previous epoxy layer with 220 before pouring another coat.
Really nice details, well done. Could you post a link on that wrap tape? Really cool how it detached so well.
Would it work to use the casting epoxy also for the coating?
Hello! I used Kimberley Clark Block It tape from Menards. I never included an Amazon link because they only sell in a 12 pack. It is about $11 a roll, but it is worth it. Casting epoxy is not a good option for the final coating because it is softer than the top coat epoxy and won’t hold up very well. They have different formulas of epoxy for certain tasks. Thanks for watching!
@@northernridgedesigns Thanks, that tape seems to be hard to get in Europe, need to figure out what I can get here for this purpose.
Great job guys i am going to attempt one shortly. Can you use cedar for a small river table or is it too porous and soft?
Cedar should work out just fine. I would definitely seal the edges before pouring the river…but should work just fine. I have a friend that uses cedar quite often. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Thanks for your reply, let’s see what happens, again thank you