Thank you so much for the video! The hardest part was taking off the 10mm (×2) bolts from the bottom of the AC fan (2007 model), and the bracket (10 mm x2 @17:23) that runs along to the bottom driver side of the radiator fan. Removing the stock transmission hose clamps were super painful. Total time of 5 hours. Thanks to the video, it tooke me 5 hours to complete the Radiator change. Otherwise, would have been like 8+ hours with few broken parts. Majority of my time was spent on trying to get 4 of the 10mm bolts located along the bottom. No prior experience other than changing simple things like brakes, sensors, belt pulleys, and alternators. Doing this at home, even with the MDX on jackstands, was almost impossible without proper tools. I almost gave up trying to take off the 4 bottom bolts. Then realized, it was too late to take the car to a shop or dealer. Push it through, fellas.
A few recommendations for DIY of factory installed originals not shown in the video. 1) There are many more wire and transmission line supports that need to be removed around the fans than are shown in the video. 2) It's impractical to remove the passenger side fan as there are two more bolts at the bottom of the fan that are hard to reach. Additionally, the transmission line rail is also bolted to the radiator (shown separated in the video) with two more bolts along the very bottom. 3) So instead: remove the two bolts that support the oil cooler on the left, passenger side, being careful not to damage the oil or A/C lines. This will allow the A/C condenser to move much further forward and out of the way and eventual allow you to remove the radiator with the passenger side fan and the transmission line rail still attached. 4) Remove the Driver's side (plastic) fan by removing the two bolts on top of the fan as shown in the video. Before removing the radiator there are three lines that are attached to the transmission rail. Detach the two transmission lines on the driver side, along with the plastic wire harness support in that same area, and the one line on the passenger side as shown in the video. This will completely detach the transmission cooling lines from the radiator, while allowing the rail to reamain attached to the radiator. Finally, disconnect the two transmission hoses connected on each side of the bottom of the radiator and the top engine coolant hose as shown in the video. 5) Now the radiator should be almost completely disconnected. Once you pull the radiator up and almost out, you can lay it back across the top of the engine and remove the impossible-to-get-to lower radiator hose clamp as well as allow you to unplug the sensor.
Also remove your hood latch that sticks out to make the job easier when putting the new radiator so u won’t damange your transmission cooler or condenser or new radiator
That was the transmission line colling or better know as Pipe C (Atf) - Acura (25210-RYE-000) That thing rust and all the support bolts are soo rusted that is impossible to replace them, the is why they left the line no attached. Also, These are not the standard clamps that you will find.. The originals clamps are all rusted and they make your live miserable... why don't do it all in rubber??? engineers!! I will suggest to remove the hood latch to make your work much easier. Thanks for the video!!
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
So nice watching this.
Thanks
Thank you so much for the video!
The hardest part was taking off the 10mm (×2) bolts from the bottom of the AC fan (2007 model), and the bracket (10 mm x2 @17:23) that runs along to the bottom driver side of the radiator fan. Removing the stock transmission hose clamps were super painful.
Total time of 5 hours.
Thanks to the video, it tooke me 5 hours to complete the Radiator change. Otherwise, would have been like 8+ hours with few broken parts. Majority of my time was spent on trying to get 4 of the 10mm bolts located along the bottom.
No prior experience other than changing simple things like brakes, sensors, belt pulleys, and alternators.
Doing this at home, even with the MDX on jackstands, was almost impossible without proper tools. I almost gave up trying to take off the 4 bottom bolts. Then realized, it was too late to take the car to a shop or dealer.
Push it through, fellas.
A few recommendations for DIY of factory installed originals not shown in the video.
1) There are many more wire and transmission line supports that need to be removed around the fans than are shown in the video.
2) It's impractical to remove the passenger side fan as there are two more bolts at the bottom of the fan that are hard to reach. Additionally, the transmission line rail is also bolted to the radiator (shown separated in the video) with two more bolts along the very bottom.
3) So instead: remove the two bolts that support the oil cooler on the left, passenger side, being careful not to damage the oil or A/C lines. This will allow the A/C condenser to move much further forward and out of the way and eventual allow you to remove the radiator with the passenger side fan and the transmission line rail still attached.
4) Remove the Driver's side (plastic) fan by removing the two bolts on top of the fan as shown in the video. Before removing the radiator there are three lines that are attached to the transmission rail. Detach the two transmission lines on the driver side, along with the plastic wire harness support in that same area, and the one line on the passenger side as shown in the video. This will completely detach the transmission cooling lines from the radiator, while allowing the rail to reamain attached to the radiator. Finally, disconnect the two transmission hoses connected on each side of the bottom of the radiator and the top engine coolant hose as shown in the video.
5) Now the radiator should be almost completely disconnected. Once you pull the radiator up and almost out, you can lay it back across the top of the engine and remove the impossible-to-get-to lower radiator hose clamp as well as allow you to unplug the sensor.
This job wasn't to hard just took awhile to do alot of tedious things,but I got it done thanks to this video it was alot quicker.
Also remove your hood latch that sticks out to make the job easier when putting the new radiator so u won’t damange your transmission cooler or condenser or new radiator
That was the transmission line colling or better know as Pipe C (Atf) - Acura (25210-RYE-000)
That thing rust and all the support bolts are soo rusted that is impossible to replace them, the is why they left the line no attached.
Also, These are not the standard clamps that you will find..
The originals clamps are all rusted and they make your live miserable... why don't do it all in rubber???
engineers!!
I will suggest to remove the hood latch to make your work much easier.
Thanks for the video!!
Definitely should remove the hood latch next time lol
Thanks man for share this video. You help me a lot. Thanks!
Is the front motor mount easy to access while doing this job? Instead of lowering the subframe?
The radiator hose were tough to take out on mine, as well as some hoses that were on the radiator fans
Wow this looks tough. How much would one expect a mechanic charge for this work? Greatly appreciate the vid!
I know this post is 2 months old. But my the shop my wife just took hers to is asking $840.
Shop is charging me 6hrs to replace rad is that accurate?
LIKE 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 💕💕 💕💕 🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩
that's a terrible design by acura, have to take alot of things off before u can even get to radiator.
I was going to replace his radiator but watching this I will pass. What a joke.
I wouldnt have removed the bumper, just loosen it, and i wouldve removed the hood latch to prevent the new radiator from getting damaged