YotaMD.com - 100 Series Land Cruiser Amp Bypass Rev 2
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
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Note: These instructions apply directly to 1999 US models. 98 models should be similar or identical. Other years will be similar, but will not be identical.
After installing an aftermarket head unit in my 1999 Land Cruiser, there was an awful hiss and engine whine sound coming through the speakers. The factory amp from Toyota uses a strange grounding setup that makes it difficult or impossible to get clear sound. Ground Loop Isolators are a half-assed fix, but with some simple tools and parts you can properly bypass the amp entirely.
Best yet, do it with NO permanent modification. No cut wires. No splicing, no soldering, etc... Everything can be put back exactly as it was if you want to replace the factory components.
Parts needed:
-Connector/terminal set (11 pin) ~$15: www.easternbeav...
-8 lengths of 8 feet of wire (14-18 AWG is fine)
Tools:
Extractor: amzn.to/29vQsGa
Terminal: amzn.to/29z62Aw
Stripper: amzn.to/29Ngibt
Crimper: Open barrel terminal, non-insulated. Various brands. Mine is a Paladin, but others work the same or better.
00:33 Wire routing
01:20 Door sill removal
03:50 Seat removal
05:02 Wiring Overview
07:27 Wiring Timelapse
08:25 Amateur Hour
08:54 Power wiring
10:32 Unlocking and removing factory terminals
11:11 Amateur Hour #2
13:13 Amp Bypass Complete - Physical Removal
14:27 Final Wiring
14:45 Seat Install
15:41 Conclusion
All This - Scoring Action by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/
Ya dont HAVE TO be rough to do this sorta work BUT it certainly HELPS !!!!
Do you have a write up with pictures on mud?
Why didn't you use the factory speaker leads that were already ran down to the Amplifier?
I don’t know if this was the case for yours, but the only things wired up to my head unit stock were just positive leads. I had no negative ones there to connect to any aftermarket radio
I understand why you would by pass the speakers but why are you bothering with the power cables? where is the power going to?
I’m installing a new head unit & bypassing the app in my 99 LC. The head unit has both constant 12V & switch 12V power w/ a ground. I’m running 8 new wires from the head unit to where the amp used to be that I’ll connect to the speaker wires that came out of the old amp, minus the speaker wires for the rear subwoofers (which correct me if I’m wrong but cannot be used without an amp because the the head unit only has space for 4 speakers). What is the reason for bridging the accessory & battery from the amp back to the head unit if the radio already has power? It don’t see where those 2 wires would connect into the aftermarket head unit. The only wires on the head unit wiring harness not used are: brown = mute, blue w/ yellow stripe = steering wheel remote input, & blue white stripe = power connect. Couldn’t I just unplug the amp and remove it? At 9:15 in the video it goes over the wiring diagram showing the bridges you did.
The head unit battery and switched 12V wires come directly from the amp. If you remove the amp, those wires are dead... until you bridge them where the amp used to be.
Thank you, w/out this video my radio instal would have been much more difficult.
Yota - You are a saint for posting this video. Followed you over here after picking up one of your key fobs for my 98 LC. One question - when you are connecting power and accessory, you skipped the part with the "intermediate connector." At the end of the video, there in a new Sumitomo connector that wasnt there before. Can you explain that briefly? Thanks for the help!
Thanks for your business! If I remember right that connector was just a convenient way to splice power or ground since I didn't have a good open barrel butt-splice on hand and I had an extra connector. I don't think it was a necessary part of the install, just better than electrical tape or worse yet a wire nut. Provided you've got your speaker wires and power/ground you should be all set without that extra connector.
Okay I was installing a new head unit the previous owner had one installed, now I have no constant power. If factory amp goes bad can that have effect on constant power?
Hey I disconnected my factory sub in preparation for bypassing the factory amp.
I lost my rear speakers after I removed my sub, do I need to reconnect those wires?
Thanks 🙏
Ok, I have to ask; if we dont have the wiring diagram can you tell us which wires go where? Or is it same color to same color? Thanks, putting in a JVC KW-V66BT in the wifes 1999. Your idea and video are superb. Can't wait to start. I also ordered the same items you did!
There's a portion of that video where I show a wiring diagram for a 99. If you need more detail than can be seen, shoot me an email. I'll send you pics of the manual. I still have that manual. Admin@yotamd.com
@@user-df1gh8le6l I did see that. I believe that just covers accessory in/out. Thank you!
Great video, I'm strongly considering this on my '98 LC! One question about the intermediate connector/accessory in/out in Connector B: would it work to connect the gray wire from Pin 2 directly to power (I think red?) coming from the head unit harness? On the diagram it looks like the gray wire in Pin 9 connects the amp to the factory radio harness, so I'm not sure how that actually is used at all for an aftermarket head unit. Thanks!
If I understand you correctly, yes, I think you can do that. I used the two wires here in that connector because the wires are already run. Grey accessory in and grey accessory out. You want the grey wire going to the head unit to be switched 12V (AKA, Accessory). If you have any other 12V accessory feed with sufficient amperage, you could use that. What I did here saved me from having to run a separate power wire... If I remember correctly. It's been 6 years, so it's like I'm watching this video for the first time all over again!
Other than this maybe being a "cleaner" install, are there any benefits to this method vs running wires from the deck to each individual speaker?
Labor savings would be the main reason for me. Properly running new wires to the speakers is hours of additional labor. This approach can be much faster.
Gotcha, thanks for the reply and great video!
Can you clarify if you used both sumitomo connectors? If so, you consolidate all OEM wires (speakers, power, illumination, etc) to the Male connector and female wires (new) to the radio,, correct? Also, was that connector the 11pin, correct?
It's been so long now, I'm not sure exactly which connectors I used. I wrote 11 position in the video description, but I don't see an option for 11 position on the eastern beaver site. 12 positions should be plenty, but that may vary if you have a different year or an LX. Yes, you can combine power, speakers all in the same connector in the under seat area. You'll then combine necessary wires into the stereo area as needed by your specific stereo and harness. Good luck!
@YotaMD Do you know where we can find an "illumination" wire? Can't find it on mud or tlcfaq. I can find it for the LX and 2000+ but not our 98/99. Thanks again in advance!!!
I'm showing a white wire with green stripe as the "ILL-" signal. That signal is controlled by the rheostat (illumination dial). The positive comes from a solid green wire that is labeled "T" - presumably for tailight since it draws it's 12V signal from the tail relay. Hope that helps!
@@andrewjacobson866 Great, thanks. What year Landcruiser? And where is that wire located? At the dimmer? I've read on ih8mud that the dimmer and ILL can be different. Thx
I have the same exact model and make... hooked up the stereo and i strange alien spaceship noise comes through the speakers even though the volume is turned all the way down... is this the noise you speak of? Could really use some help myself thanks
Potentially, yes. The amp can make all kinds of terrible noises with an aftermarket head unit. If you've got a 98-99 Land Cruiser and you put in an aftermarket stereo, you'll have to bypass the amp. Otherwise the aliens will continue to interrupt your music. ;)
YotaMD just to be certain... what is the part number for the aftermarket stereo harness that you used? The one i ordered has 4 rca connections... do I have to splice those? Im a total newbie thanks for the help
Gary, This is what I used: amzn.to/2xjBbog
It has 4 RCAs - 1 for each door speaker. That's how the signal will get from the head unit to the factory amp. Be warned though, using the RCAs will NOT bypass the amp. If you bypass the amp, you will need to use the "high level" (AKA amplified) signals coming out of the head unit. Those will just be regular wires that you would need to connect to your own new wires going out to the amp area where you can tie into the speaker wires like in my video here. Hopefully that helps a little.
YotaMD am I still bypassing the factory amp if im replacing it with a 4 channel amp?
Gary, yes. If you're installing a 4 channel amp, you need to bypass/not-use the factory amp. If you're using an aftermarket amp, you'll use separate RCA cables to go from your head unit to the new amp. Your new amp would then be wired up directly to your speakers, so you'd typically run new wiring out to each speaker.
did you lose the factory sub with the bypass?
Ephraim Duran yes, I installed an 8" sub with its own amp when I did the bypass. you could probably get the factory subs to work without the factory amp, but it would take some special wiring and knowing how to divide the speakers to get the right impedance.
Can I ask where you got your wiring diagram booklet? I am having a hard time as I no longer have Nav/interor lights after new radio install... hahah Thanks!
Ebay. You should also be able to order through a Toyota dealer (or Lexus for the LX470). Ebay is my choice though. They tend to be in really good shape and a lot cheaper than buying new. Watch out for reprints though. If you see two listings and one is waaay cheaper, it's probably a reprint. The info should be the same, but the reprints I've purchased are all a little misaligned and the chapter headings and edge markings aren't quite lined up so they're not very useful.
YotaMD thanks for the quick response and I appreciate the insight. Have you finished the green bus?
Oh I would never call it "finished", but I do have the Slee Slidersteps, a BIOR rear bumper with tire swing-out and a rear cargo storage system (SS1 from Air Down Gear Up which is another company of mine). I should post an updated video on it. It's coming along nicely! I should have an updated CB system on board soon along with some audio upgrades (sound deadening and amped door speakers). I also just bought some Lexus side mirrors to retrofit so I can have retractable mirrors.
So many things to do and so little time...
Wiring - (YotaMD do you agree?) for which speaker wires are which - look at tlcfaq page; tlcfaq.com/main/2012/05/land-cruiser-lx-470-stereo-wiring/
When you remove the amp, there is a brown wire attached to the amp mount. What did you end up doing with that wire?
All the brown wires should be chassis ground as far as I recall. Reconnect any brown wire that you removed from the mount to the chassis. You can probably mount it right back to the same bracket it was on before.
Thank you for your reply. So if I use a head unit with a built-in amp and run the RCA outs to the speakers directly, all I'd have to do is remove the factory amp and ground the brown wire to the chassis? Would I still need to do the pin 3 to pin 7 connection (or the other connections described on tlcfaq.com)?
BR wires run to component Brackets that are mounted to the Body - W-B are grounds that run and terminate directly to a body/chassis grounding terminal
Is there enough room in that routing that you did to route 4 goodsize RCA cables? I have some old Audioquest Turquoise that is just laying in a box. I would like to use it up. I probably have enough to do the 4 interconnects. Here's a pic of the Audioquest Turquoise: i.servimg.com/u/f36/14/76/78/48/audioq10.jpg
Yes, I think so. You may need to carefully tape them so they lay flat next to one another along the air box behind the glove box, but I think you should be fine. I have 3 RCA pairs along there now and there's still plenty of room.
FFS just cut the wires!! making way too much work for yourself. Don't ever use the factory wiring for power to an aftermarket amplifier.
Steven, I think you might have misunderstood the project in the video. The Pioneer head unit gets power from the factory wiring as with most all aftermarket head unit installs. My Alpine sub amp gets power from a separate, dedicated 12V line straight off the battery (and fused of course).
I agree not to use factory wiring to power an aftermarket amp. What part of the video made you think I was using factory wiring for an aftermarket amp?
I don't understand. Where is the speaker wire from the amp? I rather splice and tie together to go to the aftermarket receiver. No need for a connector 11 pin whatever. I want to connect together using black tape. and get rid of the amp. This video was not helpful. I still don't know what speaker wire goes to where.
Around 09:25 you can see the wiring diagram including speakers. I used connectors to keep it clean and factory, but you could join wires however you like. I'm not sure if all years are the same, so use the colors here with caution. Confirm wiring schematics for your exact year/model.
@@user-df1gh8le6l Thanks for the fast reply. I just finished my setup. The speaker wire is the 2 wire twisted together to form a positive and negative for 1 speaker. There are 4 of them. I looked at the wiring diagram to determine which speaker is which. I went to Walmart to buy a 12 gauge 100 feet cable to connect all speaker wires straight to the aftermarket receiver. I just unplug the amp and took it out. Just only use the 4 twisted cables to the receiver.
I feel like there's an easier way...
easier and faster...probably. Cleaner...probably not!
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