Great review Jeff. The Final Level looks like a great towel for leveling and buffing. I had so many Pearls here unopened I wish I would have ordered more.
The Level One and Final Level towels from The House of Rags are awesome. Both are very dense, but just the right thickness. The weave is great for coatings as well as panel prep wipedown and polish removal. Hopefully you caught their 50% sale when THOR was liquidating the single towel stock to transition to the new snazzy packed bundles.
Hey Jeff, thanks for video....what's durability claim for "Thick"? I've visited website and it doesn't say a lot....thanks in advance! Also, I think we need to remember that you don't have to do the entire car at the same time so it's not so time consuming...attacking a vehicle a side at a time is doable and just fine....
5 year for thick, 3 year for slim (those are from jamie) I dont give much thought to longevity claims to be honest, a car thats outside daily with a 8 year coating wont last as long as one that is inside every day and washed weekly with a 1 year coating. you totally can just do one side or even one panel at a time, i just find that once the prep is done the coating actually goes fast.
Have never heard of a coating “sweating” before. What does that mean? Also, how are you sure the prior coating was fully removed? Curious about this part. It appeared as though whatever pad you were using wasn’t technically a compounding or cutting pad and the spray polish was most likely somewhat diluted from the pad having leftover moisture from rinseless products in your pad washer? Wondering if there’s some sort of test or what the best method would be for this?
When people say a ceramic coating "sweats," they are usually referring to a visual phenomenon that occurs during the application process, where the coating appears to bead up on itself, indicating that the base layer has formed and excess is ready to be removed; essentially, the coating is repelling the remaining material on the surface, creating a "sweating" effect, signifying the curing stage is nearing completion. Im not sure the prior coating was 100% removed, just that the paint lost the slick feeling after my polishing was complete. In truth i dont 100% care if the previous coating was fully removed, the goal here was to abrade the surface enough to give the new coating something to grab onto. The pad is the DIY detail finishing polish pad diydetail.com/collections/buffing-paint-correction/products/red-jewel-pad, the pad doesnt keep a ton of liquid behind, last i tested it was around 3mL of rinseless left in it after it was spun out, i find that it gives a slightly longer working time which is nice. The only test i could think of would be to use something like a paint depth gauge to measure before applying the coating and then know what your target is, but in my opinion i think i would rather a little of the old coating left behind instead of removing clear every time i re-coat
@@improvedgarage not sure but if you’re seeing the coating start to bead up that might not be a good sign. Only time I’ve heard of coating beading is when applying second coat or layer. Sounds like the remnants of the old coating is still there which is why you might see beading? Not sure? 🤔 either way I’d bet you will probably end up coating it again sometime sooner than later since it seems like you’ll be doing a lot of testing
@@PeeGee-g4t every coating ive ever used sweats during application, i honestly cant believe you havent ever heard of it. Its possible there is some coating remaining but properly abraded it should stick without issue/
@@improvedgarage sorry, I’ve never heard the term “sweating” when applying a coating or a coating beading up besides applying second layer or top coat coating.
@@improvedgarageif you’re seeing beading then the old coating is still there and needs to be fully removed otherwise the new coating will end up failing much sooner than it normally should.
What’s the cure time to get wet? I’ve got csl / v5 on some of my personal cars but I’m looking for something w/ under that 12 hours cure time, Seriously though most of the time it don’t matter when it’s my personal car bc I’ve left colomite 845 on a long time b4 buffing but when it’s fit someone else those fast cure times are nice
Great review Jeff. The Final Level looks like a great towel for leveling and buffing. I had so many Pearls here unopened I wish I would have ordered more.
The Level One and Final Level towels from The House of Rags are awesome. Both are very dense, but just the right thickness. The weave is great for coatings as well as panel prep wipedown and polish removal. Hopefully you caught their 50% sale when THOR was liquidating the single towel stock to transition to the new snazzy packed bundles.
@@AMI_Detail I now have 15 of each 🤣
Guess who’s back…Jeff is Back 💯🫡
Hey Jeff, thanks for video....what's durability claim for "Thick"? I've visited website and it doesn't say a lot....thanks in advance! Also, I think we need to remember that you don't have to do the entire car at the same time so it's not so time consuming...attacking a vehicle a side at a time is doable and just fine....
Yeah, technically you don’t need to but you’d be better off to do the whole vehicle
5 year for thick, 3 year for slim (those are from jamie)
I dont give much thought to longevity claims to be honest, a car thats outside daily with a 8 year coating wont last as long as one that is inside every day and washed weekly with a 1 year coating. you totally can just do one side or even one panel at a time, i just find that once the prep is done the coating actually goes fast.
Have never heard of a coating “sweating” before. What does that mean? Also, how are you sure the prior coating was fully removed? Curious about this part. It appeared as though whatever pad you were using wasn’t technically a compounding or cutting pad and the spray polish was most likely somewhat diluted from the pad having leftover moisture from rinseless products in your pad washer? Wondering if there’s some sort of test or what the best method would be for this?
When people say a ceramic coating "sweats," they are usually referring to a visual phenomenon that occurs during the application process, where the coating appears to bead up on itself, indicating that the base layer has formed and excess is ready to be removed; essentially, the coating is repelling the remaining material on the surface, creating a "sweating" effect, signifying the curing stage is nearing completion.
Im not sure the prior coating was 100% removed, just that the paint lost the slick feeling after my polishing was complete. In truth i dont 100% care if the previous coating was fully removed, the goal here was to abrade the surface enough to give the new coating something to grab onto.
The pad is the DIY detail finishing polish pad diydetail.com/collections/buffing-paint-correction/products/red-jewel-pad, the pad doesnt keep a ton of liquid behind, last i tested it was around 3mL of rinseless left in it after it was spun out, i find that it gives a slightly longer working time which is nice.
The only test i could think of would be to use something like a paint depth gauge to measure before applying the coating and then know what your target is, but in my opinion i think i would rather a little of the old coating left behind instead of removing clear every time i re-coat
@@improvedgarage not sure but if you’re seeing the coating start to bead up that might not be a good sign. Only time I’ve heard of coating beading is when applying second coat or layer. Sounds like the remnants of the old coating is still there which is why you might see beading? Not sure? 🤔 either way I’d bet you will probably end up coating it again sometime sooner than later since it seems like you’ll be doing a lot of testing
@@PeeGee-g4t every coating ive ever used sweats during application, i honestly cant believe you havent ever heard of it. Its possible there is some coating remaining but properly abraded it should stick without issue/
@@improvedgarage sorry, I’ve never heard the term “sweating” when applying a coating or a coating beading up besides applying second layer or top coat coating.
@@improvedgarageif you’re seeing beading then the old coating is still there and needs to be fully removed otherwise the new coating will end up failing much sooner than it normally should.
What’s the cure time to get wet? I’ve got csl / v5 on some of my personal cars but I’m looking for something w/ under that 12 hours cure time,
Seriously though most of the time it don’t matter when it’s my personal car bc I’ve left colomite 845 on a long time b4 buffing but when it’s fit someone else those fast cure times are nice
1 hour according to jamie and eddie.
Nice video Jeff! Looks glossy!
First babyyy
2nd today I was watching Scotty Kilmer
Use what ever you want for a panel prep 🫱🏾🫲🏻