Thanks for the comment. I like your idea for the live end; might be able to use the right router bit with a bearing on the collar. I'll keep in mind the next time I'm in the situation. Cheers.
I was thinking of using a pillow block bearing instead of worrying about all that heat. My secondary plan is to hit the lottery so I can buy a proper lathe...and Bridgeport mill...and
Thanks for the comment. Yes, there are many ways to solve all these problems. That's the cool part of the community is you can see the various solutions and decide which is best for you. Take care.
Thanks for the comment. It works pretty well, but I think if you're going to be doing much of this work then you're best to buy/build a little lathe. I've been thinking of building a simple one.
Thanks for the kind words. On a later project, I clamped a right angle wood bracket to the table which I used as a tool rest for the lathe. It worked well and gave me more control. I don't use this set up much but it's nice to know I have it if I need it. I made a carbide burnishing tool using this jig and the link is: ua-cam.com/video/MK2Ivwdh1n8/v-deo.html Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment. I thought about using a T-nut. I worried the barbs were too fragile but I suppose you don't know for sure till you try. I worried that having to bend them 180 degrees to point down instead of up would make them too weak. In hind site, after mucking with the coupler nut for so long, the T-nut might would have been worth a shot, but then you're back in the same mess if the T-nut fails. Others have cobbled together rings of wood with screws poking through to form the barbs, which seemed complicated and questionable strength for my application. I could have used the T-nut as is, but then the threaded shaft would need clearance, necessitating an inch or so of waste of any piece I turn, and I thought that was giving up too much capacity for my little drill press. In any case thanks again for the thought as this is what helps the community on the whole.
@@jazbuilding I've seen t-nuts on other rigs and they worked. Not as fragile as you might think. If you really want to go quick-build redneck, cut most of the shank off of a spade bit, jam it into the wood and chuck it up. Thx
I think if you put the shaft of a small countersink bit into a bearing you’d make a pretty good live end. Great idea on the head!
Thanks for the comment. I like your idea for the live end; might be able to use the right router bit with a bearing on the collar. I'll keep in mind the next time I'm in the situation. Cheers.
I was thinking of using a pillow block bearing instead of worrying about all that heat. My secondary plan is to hit the lottery so I can buy a proper lathe...and Bridgeport mill...and
Thanks for the comment. Yes, there are many ways to solve all these problems. That's the cool part of the community is you can see the various solutions and decide which is best for you. Take care.
Amazing! The best one yet
Thanks for the comment. It works pretty well, but I think if you're going to be doing much of this work then you're best to buy/build a little lathe. I've been thinking of building a simple one.
This is amazing! Bro, you're amazing!
Thanks for the kind words. On a later project, I clamped a right angle wood bracket to the table which I used as a tool rest for the lathe. It worked well and gave me more control. I don't use this set up much but it's nice to know I have it if I need it. I made a carbide burnishing tool using this jig and the link is:
ua-cam.com/video/MK2Ivwdh1n8/v-deo.html
Thanks again.
use a 50 cent t-nut on the chucked bolt and you won't need the coupler or the hour of work.
Thanks for the comment. I thought about using a T-nut. I worried the barbs were too fragile but I suppose you don't know for sure till you try. I worried that having to bend them 180 degrees to point down instead of up would make them too weak. In hind site, after mucking with the coupler nut for so long, the T-nut might would have been worth a shot, but then you're back in the same mess if the T-nut fails. Others have cobbled together rings of wood with screws poking through to form the barbs, which seemed complicated and questionable strength for my application. I could have used the T-nut as is, but then the threaded shaft would need clearance, necessitating an inch or so of waste of any piece I turn, and I thought that was giving up too much capacity for my little drill press. In any case thanks again for the thought as this is what helps the community on the whole.
@@jazbuilding I've seen t-nuts on other rigs and they worked. Not as fragile as you might think. If you really want to go quick-build redneck, cut most of the shank off of a spade bit, jam it into the wood and chuck it up. Thx