G’day Eddie. Excellent presentation, well done. I agree with your final use of an end mill but I find it wants to walk away from centre, I first start the counterbore with a drill so the end mill has a shoulder to guide it. Cheers Peter
Excellent point. Mostly I have done counter bores in aluminum in the mill with that method and it does not seem to walk much but for steel or anything in a drill press definitely I would want that guide shoulder. Thanks Peter! Best! Eddie
@@MightyGimp coun·ter·bored, coun·ter·bor·ing. to enlarge (a drilled hole) along part of the length of the hole by drilling with a bit having a greater diameter. Quite often used to sink the head of a bolt, flush or below the material surface. Cheers Peter
You are both clear thinking and clear talking, and you clearly have plenty of experience, acquired thoughtfully. Kudos! At 9:45 you advised getting the chuck good and tight (having earlier explained that hard shanks are likely to slip) I think in that connection it's worth making the point that it pays to use every chuck key hole in turn when this is the aim. Particularly in plain chucks as distinct from ball- bearing Superchucks, each chuck key station will slightly tip the sleeve to a different quadrant, causing it to jam, preventing further tightening with the key remaining in that position.
Also the fact that the collar needs to have clearance to rotate it will cock/bind slightly by using all the holes you eliminate that and keep the tension around the jaws all constant.
@@zedostenso3069 Just for the benefit of other parties trying to work out the difference between our two explanations, they refer to the same issue, except that I chose the word sleeve rather than collar, and jam rather than bind.
Way back when I worked in a shop that did most work with 6061 aluminum. I made fixtures for holding parts and the CNC machines. Lots of times I'd simply chuck up a 1/4" - 3/8" endmill in the Jacobs 5/8" chuck because it was already in the mill. It never gave an issue , but only milled short slots , or small amounts at a time. If there was a lotta milling I'd put a collet in the spindle. One feller who as old as I am now would pitch a fit about it, but he was slower than Christmas at everything he done. He had his job , and I had mine. As in he made huge one off parts , and I made holding fixtures, or small precision parts.
Drill chucks do not spin as true as collets…end mills can grab …. If your work isn’t precise and you do light duty cutting then maybe chucking a end mill is fine. I never do it tho.
Love the explanation. I am not an idiot, but like you said, just not exposed. So I was very curious as to whether or not I could just slap a milling bit into a drill chuck lol. Thanks for the run through.
Thanks! Yeah, no one is an idiot just because they don't know this stuff. Unless someone has tried it or specifically learned it there is really no reason to know it.
Me newbie, you directly answered my query. Thanks. Mill acrylic parts on a drill press. A cross vice with fixed height. First, flush reference the bit to work piece. Move piece aside, lower bit in loosened chuck to fix required cut depth. Thickness of a marker pen is good. Be creative, adapt and start milling from pre-drilled holes.
Thanks Paul, these seem to be pretty popular and I will be doing more. I actually just noticed that the first one has the largest ratio of likes to views of any of my videos. All the best! Eddie
Another use for an end mill in a drill press is similar to the one you mentioned, lets say you need a flat surface on a broken exhaust header stud on a single cylinder engine, the stud is not protruding so you'll use an end mill the same size as the stud, end result is a flat surface you can center punch for removal.
Everything in this video is true. If I need precision or heavy duty forces, I used a real collet chuck. If you are milling steel with a drill press and a standard chuck w/arbor, that is a recipe for disaster. But.... since you said this was advice for a "consumer" or "hobbyist" user... If you use an *integrated* chuck with a draw bolt, and you are just milling small lightweight stuff in a hobbyist "mini" mill, it works. The integrated chuck with draw bolt eliminates the possibility of anything separating from an arbor and flying across the room. If you are just doing light cuts through brass, aluminum or plastic, and you don't need high precision, it works fine. You'll wear out the chuck from the sideways loading, but most folks at home probably don't do enough "milling" in a lifetime to do that.
That said, I only had a half inch chuck and needed an 18mm counterbore. Luckily I found a retired engineer with a backyard workshop that puts most machine shops to shame.
Thanks man, super helpful info. Explains why my end mill was chattering so much in my drill press (had to try it, just wish I would've watched this an hour ago ha)
I have a question, I bought an old 645 Sioux valve grinder it’s got a lot of miles on it so the chuck has a wobble. Everything else is good so I need to either fix this chuck and I don’t know if that’s possible or replaced it with a new one which is probably more than the machine is worth or finding maybe a substitute any help you can offer would be much appreciated!😀🇨🇦
Thank you, I was considering using my drill press with a milling bench this has helped. Also have been looking at developing my Dremel capabilities and had considered using a chuck rather than collets however, the Dermal collets have few slots but still grip all the way round. So I guess the same principle applies all be it at a smaller scale🤔
There are mini mills that are not much more than a Dremel mounted over an X/Y table. For plastic, wood, maybe aluminum they can do small work. CNC routers are basically the same as well. And yes collets are always better than chucks for side forces.
What model Dremel are you using? I'm using the 9100 flexshaft model. I've had it about 4 years now and I love it. I've had to replace the internal shaft once but, considering the absolute HELL I've put that thing through, I'd say that's pretty damn good. However, I think when she finally shits out on me, I'll try a Foredom model. I've heard really good things about them. Just curious what you're working with and how much you like it. I had never even heard of a model 9100 before. It's not on their website (or at least it wasn't at the time. I don't know how long they've had that model) and you won't see it in any store, I can't remember exactly how I came acrossed it other than just looking for orbital routing tools online
You’re welcome. I have subsequently subscribed to your channel. I am retired and have recently acquired an old lathe. I worked in engineering in the 1960’s after leaving school mostly on a horizontal borer, not on a lathe. However, I did not follow that profession. Although, I suppose, the basics haven’t changed over 50 years I still appreciate any quality advice for operating my lathe. Thanks again.
@@johngreatorex1234 Sounds like you know as much or more than me, lol. I just try to share what I have learned and sometimes I also learn along the way. What kind of lathe did you get. I actually just picked up an old 10" Atlas that I am refurbing now.
I am learning all the time. There are some really skilled people on UA-cam and I am looking forward to catch up on your channel. Thanks for the conversation. I wish you all the best for the new year.
During my apprenticeship I was told not to counterbore using a drill chuck on a mill. The reason behind it is that a drill chuck will "drill a hole bigger than the end mill. However, during the same apprenticeship I was given a round bar with a broken bolt at the end of the stock. I placed round bar on a lathe and tried center drilling it. I gave up and placed an end mill on the drill chuck of the tailstock. I flattened the broken bolt to properly center drill it. I then drilled with a proper drill bit and used an easy out. Toolmakers asked how i did it and they approved using and end mill on a lathe.
G’day Eddie. Mate I’m loving that new camera. Those colours really pop on my big Sony TV. Excellent video to cover and discussion to have. I’ve made the mistake of using a drill chuck once to mill something quickly. Yup, pull out and destroyed the job and bent the R8 shaft 🤦♂️
Ouch! But ok if we are being honest, I did once move the table back and forth after putting a flat in bit of round stock to give a wider flat. I got away with it but I had to clean up the chatter with a file. Your's sounds a bit more expensive in time and money but lessons learned. Funny you mentioned the camera, I have noticed the same thing. I used to have to pop the colors up a bit in the edit because they were so flat. But what you see there is what was recorded, no color correction at all. And it is pretty true to what my eye sees maybe even more vivid. I have been pleased with that and also noticed a much faster smarter auto focus. So far so good Thanks as always for watching Eddie
Hey Ralfy. Good on ya. I returned. You have some good stuff. I think I watched some of your vape vids a few years ago. Looks like you got some cool builds going on. Will give them a watch. All the best!
First thank you for the effort and sharing some useful knowledge ( I never dismantled a drill chuck... I mean a recent design one...i mean less than a century old...). The video is real good and I can tell from experience it's hard to do so well. However, the subject is a bit biased. I can understand all the stuff you tell. A end mill in a drill press is not going to be a great milling machine, obviously. But sometimes you have to choose a solution that's not the best and still do the job. I had to mill a part of my minilathe and did it on my cheap drill press "the way it should not be done". More, I had no x/y table and not even a decent vice. I was a bit scary and I spent time and effort. The result was not great. But I had it done...not worse than the original minilathe quality standard. Of course I would love a real milling machine but it was just not possible. So rather that explaining why it is bad, it would be nice to have a few tricks that help when you have just no other option.
I am glad you had some success. I think you are a little hard on the bias comment though. I am pretty sure I never once said it was "bad", I merely systematically pointed out the various problems you have to consider when using one. It is exactly these problems that have to be considered beforehand. One has to understand the magnitude of a problem to understand how to mitigate for it or the limits of overcoming it. It sounds like you used a little ingenuity to get a specific job done to your satisfaction. There are no tricks I could teach that would apply to every situation, they have to be "engineered" to the specific job and judged by the user as to the quality of the resultant work and the margin of safety that they are willing to tolerate. Essentially what I am saying is that "here is everything you need to consider before you do it" How one approaches overcoming these problems is up to the user. These are the only tips or tricks I can provide.
I used a end mill yesterday because my buddy snapped off the bolt to the flywheel of a mini bike I was working on and then continued to brake two drill bills and a easy out so all that in the little shaft. I had no choice because the hardness of the crank so I equaled the hardness with my end mill and bored it out then retapped for a bigger bolt.
Hi Eddies, Excellent video. I am experiencing the chuck falling-off problem you mentioned in your video. At 4:09 in the video, you show us the screw-in chuck. Where can I buy that kind of chuck and arbor that are connected by threads instead of friction? My chuck is Delta RJ33-13L. Only if my chuck does not fall off the Jacobs taper, I can get my job done and I will be very happy.
Hello, You can find screw in chucks at the normal sites (Amazon, Aliexpress, etc.) but the adapter will be harder to find and depends on what type of machine you have. Does it have a Morse taper or just a spindle with a Jacobs taper? If you have a morse adapter you can search "Threaded Drill Chuck Arbor Hardened Morse Taper Adapter" on Amazon and find one. If it is on the spindle, it is not likely you will be able to replace without making one. My advice though is that if your Jacobs taper is coming loose under normal conditions it is probably worn out or damaged. Thanks!
@@theeddies When I take a close look, I find out it is Jacobs Taper on spindle that I cannot do very much about it as even if the chuck is threaded mount, I cannot replace the spindle. I thought it was an arbor with MT2 and JT33 tapers . Unfortunately, it is not. Your reply is very helpful though. I am very grateful to you for your assistance.
@@justin94538 The taper is probably worn out. You might be able to find a replacement spindle from the manufacturer or a used one on eBay. What model is the machine?
Thanks Todd! Did I respond to your other message? I cannot seem to find it. Sometimes they get lost on here. If you are on instagram, That's the best way to ask questions usually. Their message system is more reliable. All the best! Eddie
My milling machine has a 40 taper. I have milled plastic by chucking small end mills. Works fine for cutters 1/4" and smaller. Just have to be patient and take lighter cuts. Would not try this on metal though.
great video, one other why for NOT putting mills in drill chucks is cutting force, to cut, not drill takes a lot more force, so you NEED more force to tighten the bit in the holder, a Spanner is way longer than the "tommy bars" on the drill chuck key!!, so in a milling application you can get the mill as tight as it NEEDS to be to have the feed rate/depth to make it cut efficiently.
@@mikefromspace I use a router when cutting t-slots as hardwood is better I doubt you would get up to the required speed and you would end up 'forcing' and possibly damaging the drill press itself Just my opinion though
Would using an end mill for cutting holes without any side force work? I need to cut a trigger pattern into a flywheel perhaps using a rotary table, drilling would not leave a consistent depth and shape cut.
Yes, absolutely. I use them in a chuck to do flat counter sinks for socket head cap screws. The only thing you have to look out for is that there are center cutting endmills and non center cutting endmills. So if you do not drill a pilot hole first you need to make sure your endmill is center cutting. And if you do make a pilot hole first with a non center cutting mill that the pilot hole is big enough. It is also nice to start the hole with a drill that same size that way the edges of the mill have a guide to get started. Go slow and use oil. Works great!
I was thinking of using my 75amp drill press to hold a tslot cutter and make a tslot table by mounting the drill head onto a solid round bar with 1/2" plate... and then mounting that on the cnc, but after seeing this, looks like I should give up on the idea. If there's no way to mod my press to properly hold something (what?) then I'll need to winch this 1000lb chunk of metal back into my pickup and take it to the machine shop to get it done. Any suggestions? my tslot table metal is 34x39x2.25, steel.
Hello Mike, I went and watched your video on the t-slot table. If I understand correctly, you are thinking of cutting the slots with a drill press? Honestly, I cannot see how that would work. I mean a t-slot cutter cannot take relief cuts so you will be taking a full 1/2"?? depth cut with a 3/4"? wide cutter. That would be a really tough slow job for a Bridgeport much less a drill press. If you can figure a way to do it I would love to see the video. But it sounds like a lot of chatter and frustration to me. Best!
@@theeddies Yes, I jumped the gun buying the metal, and had no idea about warping, blanchart grinding, and the cost of it! So I ended up buying a used tslot table. Won it at eBay auction. Appx 50x24 tslot area x7" with drain catch. All I have left to buy is steel framing and paint. Honda makes forged copper aluminum forks. That material they push in as a cold peanut butter consistency would make amazingly strong and cheap tslot beds.
I still would not use endmill for counterboring. Often times a drill chuck jaws are not running true/concentric. That means one flute is doing all the cutting and cutting oversize. Still had potential to suck endmill into the workpiece. Use the correct holding method always.
I do it all the time for wood and aluminum. I've got an X Y table mounted on the drill press table to use it as a mill. I do have a good Jacob super chuck, which helps, and I did clean the tapers on the press and chuck for maximum holding power. I also used a dab of removeable loctite 242 when I assembled the chuck. One caution is to never climb cut, and take very conservative cuts in aluminum.
@@peterfitzpatrick7032 But I do it all the time! I have yet to see this subject come up where some du,,,,,,uh,,,one doesn't say "but I do it all the time"! I had that discussion with a friend of mine who INSISTED it was ok in Aluminum (he also even milled it in his drill press until he bought his mini-mill which is really dumb)! He insisted that is until it finally did come out (and no Loctite does not guarantee it will not happen for reasons explained in the video), when that thing came loose it dropped down, not enough to fall out but enough to wobble wildly, causing the mill to shatter throwing a piece so deep into his forearm it actually stuck in the bone in his lower arm! I know we all have had end mills break/shatter and it's no big deal but shattering while in a thrashing drill chuck is apparently a whole different story!!!
@@catman4644 Some people just never learn... I have a Clarkson chuck on my Van Norman mill... it takes the threaded shank cutters and is designed to be incapable of allowing a cutter to even spin in it, if the cutter trys to turn it pulls the collet tighter into the nose taper... it cost around €250... and that was 25 years ago....😕
I thought you were going suggest how to convert a drill chuck that has a Morse taper for milling. I am not able to use a drawer bar to hold a collet on my drill press.
One of the points of the video is that drill chucks are terrible for milling except in very soft material with very light cuts especially if using with something like a drill press which introduces it's own list of rigidity issues. But, the only possible way I can think of to "secure" a chuck to a morse taper without a draw bar is to tap some threads into the end of the morse taper on your spindle, drill a hole through the throat of the drill chuck, and screw the chuck to the taper. As most spindle tapers and drill chucks are made of somewhat hardened steel this presents its own challenges.
Your Enco has a tapered spindle to change tooling. Knock the chuck out and get some tooling to hold end mils. I will send you a link to my video "Basics 1" in another message that will explain how this is done.
@@theeddies I have been watching a few more of your videos. It seems like ER collets are the way to go. Can you suggest a bargain priced set for me to purchase? I thought you said the ebay ones are ok...
@@aprilakajoy73 They are all going to be about the same. I would recommend getting at least an ER32 set like his one amzn.to/35phUHU You can find more complete sets or metric sets for more money. The difference in the really expensive sets is going to be a little better quality control. An alternative would be to buy just a holder from eBay or Amazon and get a few collets that you think you will need for some place like MSC or Travers. They will be more guaranteed quality. The holders are essentially all the same in my opinion. They are pretty easy to manufacture unlike the collets. I have a mix of cheap and more expensive collets and find the more expensive have a bit better fit and finish. Also if you buy the super cheap ones in SAE or imperial sizes, be aware that they may say they are SAE but are probably metric equivalents. They work fine but you can tell they are a bit tight to get the end mill in and out of the collet. Check your spindle size though. It is probably morse taper 3 which is what the link is but it may be 4 or 2 OR if you are lucky it is an R8 spindle. If it is R8 you will have some more options and the regular R8 collets are cheaper. best! Eddie
Great article, however, what if you do not need to do much mill work? Can you use a drill press. The answer given by Popular Mechanics is YES! "How to Mill on a Drill Press" by Kenneth B. Littlefield January 1969 ~ 178 to 185 guess about the range and start page. Basically Kenneth takes care of the side load by using two roller bearing pressing against the side of the chuck. The bearings are mounted to a frame clamped to the column. I would add a third bearing to allow thrust in any directions with them 120 degrees apart. Then you need to buy a means of moving in the x y plane. I have a vise that is cheap but has those adjustments in the x y plane.
I am not here to say "no" to anyone, that is not the way I look at things but I will say this. The internet and Popular Mechanics before that is littered with "ideas" some great, some not so great. There are videos out there converting drills to mills, but not so much of people doing actual work with them. There are some, yes, but there are reasons why there are some not many. I have what could be considered a big glorified drill press dressed up as a mill lathe combo and it has severe milling limits in DOC and speed that a drill press which is a 10th of the weight and size would be hard pressed (pun intended) to overcome. Can it be done? Sure. Should it? That's up to you. Do what you enjoy but go in realizing the limits of what you will end up with. Best!
Question about workshop vice(s). We have the cross-vice with x,y, axis. Any chance of one with depth adjustment, an x,y,z axis vice? T'would only take twin screwed wedges between table and xy vice. How about you 3d print a prototype - for China to mass produce metal ones.
@@blaksin Loosening clamps on spindle or column invites loss of xyz position reference. Fixed position cross-vice with single leed screw z adjustment would provide stability and accuracy between successive 2mm depth end mill cuts.
Quick answer; yes you can. However, 1/2" maximum diameter and cutting aluminum or wood. I've cut steel with this setup but wouldn't recommend it. Cat 50 taper for machine spindle and #4 MT for the drill chuck.
If you do any kind of follow up it's worth mentioning that when using an end mill to create a flat bottom counter bore one should have the work piece well secured in a vise that is also bolted down, because when you plunge an end mill into a hole if it walks (and they like to) and grabs it can be sudden violent ride that isn't like when a drill bit grabs.
@@johnstrange6799 Yes PSG mentioned that as well. It is an excellent point. The old shimmy shimmy shake chatter or These flutes were made for walking. I have not actually had that problem in the mill much sometimes in steel, but definitely a problem on the drill press. Damn that's a video title that writes the script. These flutes are made for walking, thats just what they do, one of these day these flutes are going to walk all over you.
@@theeddies Oh. Duh! I see that now right in front of me in the comment. Okay. And I agree. They do want to walk, then they want to grab, and it's a free for all of competing torque forces all trying to win the heart of the end mill in a situation that isn't usually anywhere near as rigid as a milling table and milling vice, so calamity can ensue in an instant. It'll scare the shit out of you is what it will do. Or worse.
Straight down plunge cut would likely be fine. I personally would not try moving side to side in that case. The end mill could snag and let loose and put a nick or gouge where you would not want one.
One way to keep taper shank from falling out of the spindle is to rub white chalk on the taper. Try it and you will see that it helps quite a bit, it wont fall out as much.
@@TheGalacticWest RUB the chalk on the surface of the taper of the tool , Just to have a coating on the surface. To remove the chalk that is stuck use a stick or a wire.
I have seen woodworkers use an end mill to clean out a mortice and flatten the bottom. Since wood is soft company to metal the forces action on the chuck are much lower.
My Inca 259 tablesaw has a horizontal chuck and mortise table attachment. I use end mills for floating tenons and they work great. Not sure about metals..
Why can't I find anything about spark Drills? You can spark your way through any metal in any shape with any shape bit you can make fit out of about any metal
Check out this video, it will give you a basic idea of the types of common end mill holder and how to use them. ua-cam.com/video/fcQuiuksseo/v-deo.html Thanks, Eddie
@@theeddies got it thank you very much I've been looking around but nobody's exactly explaining in detail what to do and to buy to do it the right way thank you very much
I *do* use a drill chuck for milling wood, but it's simply not accurate enough for precision metalwork (plus, drill chucks can't handle the lateral force)
if im spotting, doing a quick counterbore... otherwise, tap tap, spend the next hour hunting down the imperial drawbars current hiding spot... realise you had to sacrifice that collet for some job and you never restocked... start digging through spare tools, swearing theres a different shank in there...
I just just a drill chuck but I’m not doing anything crazy that needs to be precise. There was a shop going out of business last year with a really nice mill that came with everything for 1200 bucks and I didn’t buy it! Anything as nice as that one it a good 4000 bucks
i HAVE A HARBOR FRIGHT DRILL PRESS FOR 8 YRS, IS OUT ABOUT 2000. WHICH I DON'T THINK THATS BAD. IN SAYING SO, I USE END MILLS ON IT BUT BEING VERRY CAREFULL WHEN I DO I DON'T STRESS IT A LOT. I KNOW ABOUT LAT. MOVE MIT. I DON'T HAVE A LATHE TO DO ANY THAT MUCH WORK AND IM RETIRED, IM IN THE POUSES OF A 3 PH. MOTOR AND VFD ON THE DRILL PRESS. I LOVE H/F.
You can. Not the question I was asked though. Tapered spindles with collets or endmill holders and draw bar are going to be the optimal way to hold any endmill.
I can't really disagree with you. The only proviso I would come up with is for the very small drill presses, using small mills with light cuts, you can get away with the drill chuck. Still, if you are going to be using a Harbor Freight Cheap drill press for this, then take due care for all the things that you just covered. I will have to look at my Central Machine drill press and see if the taper that the drill chuck is mounted to comes out of the spindle.
@@jackpijjin4088 A router does an impressive job on aluminum and of course wood. I wouldn't even try to mill steel with one......? Hmmm, now I'm curious what would happen.
I am not specifically saying that, I am just giving the relevant facts. If that is what you took away from the video, then you have made an informed decision.😊
If you don't believe this presentation, just try it out and watch the chuck come flying out of the drill press. That's why there are milling machines AND drill presses. The right tool for the right job.
40 years in the business. I would never recommend using a drill chuck to hold an end mill if you have any other option. I am retired and have an old WWII era Delta drill press that has a screw on chuck and is built like a tank. Even with that the milling results are crummy at best. None of these cheapo drill presses from the big box stores are going to give you any kind of positive results. Plastic or extremely light cuts on aluminum is possible. Forget about any steel no matter how soft it is.
Best Idea is to NEVER use an End Mill in a Drill Chuck or Drill press for that matter . Not only is the drill "Chuck" NOT designed for milling ( Side Thrust) but a "Drill Press" is NOT designed for milling EITHER . Drill press spindle bearing are NOT designed for Lateral SIDE Thrust just like the drill chuck is Not either . Runout of a drill chuck JAWS are not concentric enough either and like this video explains a Drill chuck JAWS only support an End mill on THREE edges or Points . RIGIDITY and Bearings in a MILLING MACHINE are Very Different . If you wish to simply and ONLY perform a Very Light counterbore in Plastic or Wood using a Drill press , that is possible BUT be SURE the end mill is a SINGLE Ended mill otherwise the endmill Cutting flutes that are inserted in the chuck will become damaged as well as the end mill will NOT SEAT entirely against the internal part of the Drill chuck . A Disaster waiting to Happen !! Great video and Explanation ! Well Done Thanks for helping out the UNINFORMED Home shop Mechanics : ) STAY SAFE out There ! Cheers
I have to say when I clicked on this video I was fired up with all kinds of responses to why you are totally wrong( I was expecting another ignorant defense of using a drill chuck to hold an end mill. I was pleasantly surprised by your well done video.🙏🙏🙏 EVERYONE thinking of getting into hobby machine work needs to watch this video
@@theeddies excellent job kind of a can you do this ,yes ,but it might be very dangerous . I hope the beginner gets this. It is not just an accuracy issue but can be s VERY serious safety issue n a lot of cases Again we’ll done
G’day Eddie. Excellent presentation, well done. I agree with your final use of an end mill but I find it wants to walk away from centre, I first start the counterbore with a drill so the end mill has a shoulder to guide it.
Cheers
Peter
Excellent point. Mostly I have done counter bores in aluminum in the mill with that method and it does not seem to walk much but for steel or anything in a drill press definitely I would want that guide shoulder. Thanks Peter!
Best!
Eddie
@@MightyGimp coun·ter·bored, coun·ter·bor·ing.
to enlarge (a drilled hole) along part of the length of the hole by drilling with a bit having a greater diameter. Quite often used to sink the head of a bolt, flush or below the material surface. Cheers Peter
Pre start .. even a punch with hammer 🔨 . Then drill then use end mill to pre grove the start prevent from : sliding . Right ?
To solve the “walking” problem, start the counterbore with the same size drill bit.
You are both clear thinking and clear talking, and you clearly have plenty of experience, acquired thoughtfully. Kudos!
At 9:45 you advised getting the chuck good and tight (having earlier explained that hard shanks are likely to slip)
I think in that connection it's worth making the point that it pays to use every chuck key hole in turn when this is the aim. Particularly in plain chucks as distinct from ball- bearing Superchucks, each chuck key station will slightly tip the sleeve to a different quadrant, causing it to jam, preventing further tightening with the key remaining in that position.
Also the fact that the collar needs to have clearance to rotate it will cock/bind slightly by using all the holes you eliminate that and keep the tension around the jaws all constant.
@@zedostenso3069 Just for the benefit of other parties trying to work out the difference between our two explanations, they refer to the same issue, except that I chose the word sleeve rather than collar, and jam rather than bind.
Way back when I worked in a shop that did most work with 6061 aluminum. I made fixtures for holding parts and the CNC machines. Lots of times I'd simply chuck up a 1/4" - 3/8" endmill in the Jacobs 5/8" chuck because it was already in the mill. It never gave an issue , but only milled short slots , or small amounts at a time. If there was a lotta milling I'd put a collet in the spindle. One feller who as old as I am now would pitch a fit about it, but he was slower than Christmas at everything he done. He had his job , and I had mine. As in he made huge one off parts , and I made holding fixtures, or small precision parts.
I know the type: know-it-all , flash-in-the pan performance, has more sick days than anyone, never his fault etc…
Drill chucks do not spin as true as collets…end mills can grab …. If your work isn’t precise and you do light duty cutting then maybe chucking a end mill is fine. I never do it tho.
Very informative- excellent video
Thank you so much for this video. I have been wondering about this for a long time.
Love the explanation. I am not an idiot, but like you said, just not exposed. So I was very curious as to whether or not I could just slap a milling bit into a drill chuck lol. Thanks for the run through.
Thanks! Yeah, no one is an idiot just because they don't know this stuff. Unless someone has tried it or specifically learned it there is really no reason to know it.
Thank you just getting into using mills and all i have is a drill press. Now i know i can use one for soft materials and basic use!
Cross slide vise on the drill press is exactly where I started, just before I got the 1st mill
Me newbie, you directly answered my query. Thanks. Mill acrylic parts on a drill press. A cross vice with fixed height. First, flush reference the bit to work piece. Move piece aside, lower bit in loosened chuck to fix required cut depth. Thickness of a marker pen is good. Be creative, adapt and start milling from pre-drilled holes.
Hello Eddie,
Good video... I like this Basics series... more please...
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks Paul, these seem to be pretty popular and I will be doing more. I actually just noticed that the first one has the largest ratio of likes to views of any of my videos. All the best!
Eddie
Really grateful for this video. It kept me from making a $$$$ mistake. Thank you 🙏
Nice explanations… Thanks
You answered my question is I wanted to drill a hole straight down and make the bottom flat and I thank you for this video it was helpful
Good, thorough explanation
Thanks, the thoughts have been rambling round in my head for awhile. Glad I got them out somewhat coherently. All the best!
Eddie
Very thorough explanation, Eddie. I think you covered all the bases - can't think of any other reasons why not.
Thanks Daniel! much appreciated.
Well done. Explained lots to me.Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Very much inspired, thank you master!
Lol, thanks for watching!
Another use for an end mill in a drill press is similar to the one you mentioned, lets say you need a flat surface on a broken exhaust header stud on a single cylinder engine, the stud is not protruding so you'll use an end mill the same size as the stud, end result is a flat surface you can center punch for removal.
Everything in this video is true. If I need precision or heavy duty forces, I used a real collet chuck. If you are milling steel with a drill press and a standard chuck w/arbor, that is a recipe for disaster. But.... since you said this was advice for a "consumer" or "hobbyist" user...
If you use an *integrated* chuck with a draw bolt, and you are just milling small lightweight stuff in a hobbyist "mini" mill, it works. The integrated chuck with draw bolt eliminates the possibility of anything separating from an arbor and flying across the room. If you are just doing light cuts through brass, aluminum or plastic, and you don't need high precision, it works fine. You'll wear out the chuck from the sideways loading, but most folks at home probably don't do enough "milling" in a lifetime to do that.
best damn explanation video I've ever come across thank you for your time
Thanks! That really means a lot. Glad you liked it. Eddie
Hooray! A counterbore is exactly what I want to do! (Playing with some aluminum extrusion. Need a flat bottomed hole for the "whistle" cam.)
That said, I only had a half inch chuck and needed an 18mm counterbore. Luckily I found a retired engineer with a backyard workshop that puts most machine shops to shame.
You can, but you shouldnt for metal. Maybe plastic, wood and other soft materials...like butter.
Or in soft materials, use a router.
Thanks man, super helpful info. Explains why my end mill was chattering so much in my drill press (had to try it, just wish I would've watched this an hour ago ha)
Thanks!
I do all my end milling with a hand held Black and Decker drill.
excellent content thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
I have a question, I bought an old 645 Sioux valve grinder it’s got a lot of miles on it so the chuck has a wobble. Everything else is good so I need to either fix this chuck and I don’t know if that’s possible or replaced it with a new one which is probably more than the machine is worth or finding maybe a substitute any help you can offer would be much appreciated!😀🇨🇦
Thank you, I was considering using my drill press with a milling bench this has helped. Also have been looking at developing my Dremel capabilities and had considered using a chuck rather than collets however, the Dermal collets have few slots but still grip all the way round. So I guess the same principle applies all be it at a smaller scale🤔
There are mini mills that are not much more than a Dremel mounted over an X/Y table. For plastic, wood, maybe aluminum they can do small work. CNC routers are basically the same as well. And yes collets are always better than chucks for side forces.
What model Dremel are you using? I'm using the 9100 flexshaft model. I've had it about 4 years now and I love it. I've had to replace the internal shaft once but, considering the absolute HELL I've put that thing through, I'd say that's pretty damn good. However, I think when she finally shits out on me, I'll try a Foredom model. I've heard really good things about them. Just curious what you're working with and how much you like it. I had never even heard of a model 9100 before. It's not on their website (or at least it wasn't at the time. I don't know how long they've had that model) and you won't see it in any store, I can't remember exactly how I came acrossed it other than just looking for orbital routing tools online
Man, this was a lot of good info. Thank you kind sir! Sub’d
Thanks!
Thank you. Explains a lot.
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback,
You’re welcome. I have subsequently subscribed to your channel. I am retired and have recently acquired an old lathe. I worked in engineering in the 1960’s after leaving school mostly on a horizontal borer, not on a lathe. However, I did not follow that profession. Although, I suppose, the basics haven’t changed over 50 years I still appreciate any quality advice for operating my lathe. Thanks again.
@@johngreatorex1234 Sounds like you know as much or more than me, lol. I just try to share what I have learned and sometimes I also learn along the way. What kind of lathe did you get. I actually just picked up an old 10" Atlas that I am refurbing now.
I am learning all the time. There are some really skilled people on UA-cam and I am looking forward to catch up on your channel. Thanks for the conversation. I wish you all the best for the new year.
During my apprenticeship I was told not to counterbore using a drill chuck on a mill. The reason behind it is that a drill chuck will "drill a hole bigger than the end mill. However, during the same apprenticeship I was given a round bar with a broken bolt at the end of the stock. I placed round bar on a lathe and tried center drilling it. I gave up and placed an end mill on the drill chuck of the tailstock. I flattened the broken bolt to properly center drill it. I then drilled with a proper drill bit and used an easy out. Toolmakers asked how i did it and they approved using and end mill on a lathe.
G’day Eddie. Mate I’m loving that new camera. Those colours really pop on my big Sony TV. Excellent video to cover and discussion to have. I’ve made the mistake of using a drill chuck once to mill something quickly. Yup, pull out and destroyed the job and bent the R8 shaft 🤦♂️
Ouch! But ok if we are being honest, I did once move the table back and forth after putting a flat in bit of round stock to give a wider flat. I got away with it but I had to clean up the chatter with a file. Your's sounds a bit more expensive in time and money but lessons learned.
Funny you mentioned the camera, I have noticed the same thing. I used to have to pop the colors up a bit in the edit because they were so flat. But what you see there is what was recorded, no color correction at all. And it is pretty true to what my eye sees maybe even more vivid. I have been pleased with that and also noticed a much faster smarter auto focus. So far so good
Thanks as always for watching
Eddie
Yes!
use mills with morse taper shanks or a morse taper collet chuck and cheap ER collets, also use a taper drift to remove the tapered shanks.
Hi buddy, new sub here from Matty’s Workshop 👍have a great one Ralfy
Hey Ralfy. Good on ya. I returned. You have some good stuff. I think I watched some of your vape vids a few years ago. Looks like you got some cool builds going on. Will give them a watch. All the best!
What is If use a compact drill . Using a penn craft manual Drill-press with the free of putting any drill ?
Drill chuck shanks generally are either just case hardened or not hard at all and will bend very easily if you use them for milling.
Thanks for
very cool
Thanks!
First thank you for the effort and sharing some useful knowledge ( I never dismantled a drill chuck... I mean a recent design one...i mean less than a century old...). The video is real good and I can tell from experience it's hard to do so well. However, the subject is a bit biased. I can understand all the stuff you tell. A end mill in a drill press is not going to be a great milling machine, obviously. But sometimes you have to choose a solution that's not the best and still do the job. I had to mill a part of my minilathe and did it on my cheap drill press "the way it should not be done". More, I had no x/y table and not even a decent vice.
I was a bit scary and I spent time and effort. The result was not great. But I had it done...not worse than the original minilathe quality standard. Of course I would love a real milling machine but it was just not possible. So rather that explaining why it is bad, it would be nice to have a few tricks that help when you have just no other option.
I am glad you had some success. I think you are a little hard on the bias comment though. I am pretty sure I never once said it was "bad", I merely systematically pointed out the various problems you have to consider when using one. It is exactly these problems that have to be considered beforehand. One has to understand the magnitude of a problem to understand how to mitigate for it or the limits of overcoming it.
It sounds like you used a little ingenuity to get a specific job done to your satisfaction. There are no tricks I could teach that would apply to every situation, they have to be "engineered" to the specific job and judged by the user as to the quality of the resultant work and the margin of safety that they are willing to tolerate.
Essentially what I am saying is that "here is everything you need to consider before you do it" How one approaches overcoming these problems is up to the user. These are the only tips or tricks I can provide.
@@theeddies well that's probably exactly what I was expecting. May be it would be better to say exactly this in the introduction...
I used a end mill yesterday because my buddy snapped off the bolt to the flywheel of a mini bike I was working on and then continued to brake two drill bills and a easy out so all that in the little shaft. I had no choice because the hardness of the crank so I equaled the hardness with my end mill and bored it out then retapped for a bigger bolt.
Yes, that is a great reason to use one, especially carbide. I have done that to break up and remove a broken tap . Thanks!
Hi Eddies,
Excellent video. I am experiencing the chuck falling-off problem you mentioned in your video. At 4:09 in the video, you show us the screw-in chuck. Where can I buy that kind of chuck and arbor that are connected by threads instead of friction? My chuck is Delta RJ33-13L. Only if my chuck does not fall off the Jacobs taper, I can get my job done and I will be very happy.
Hello, You can find screw in chucks at the normal sites (Amazon, Aliexpress, etc.) but the adapter will be harder to find and depends on what type of machine you have. Does it have a Morse taper or just a spindle with a Jacobs taper? If you have a morse adapter you can search "Threaded Drill Chuck Arbor Hardened Morse Taper Adapter" on Amazon and find one. If it is on the spindle, it is not likely you will be able to replace without making one. My advice though is that if your Jacobs taper is coming loose under normal conditions it is probably worn out or damaged.
Thanks!
@@theeddies When I take a close look, I find out it is Jacobs Taper on spindle that I cannot do very much about it as even if the chuck is threaded mount, I cannot replace the spindle. I thought it was an arbor with MT2 and JT33 tapers . Unfortunately, it is not. Your reply is very helpful though. I am very grateful to you for your assistance.
@@justin94538 The taper is probably worn out. You might be able to find a replacement spindle from the manufacturer or a used one on eBay. What model is the machine?
Good video I message you other day about getting mill drill combo like yours and im clue less on it so all your videos are appreciated.
Thanks Todd! Did I respond to your other message? I cannot seem to find it. Sometimes they get lost on here. If you are on instagram, That's the best way to ask questions usually. Their message system is more reliable.
All the best!
Eddie
My milling machine has a 40 taper. I have milled plastic by chucking small end mills. Works fine for cutters 1/4" and smaller. Just have to be patient and take lighter cuts. Would not try this on metal though.
great video, one other why for NOT putting mills in drill chucks is cutting force, to cut, not drill takes a lot more force, so you NEED more force to tighten the bit in the holder, a Spanner is way longer than the "tommy bars" on the drill chuck key!!, so in a milling application you can get the mill as tight as it NEEDS to be to have the feed rate/depth to make it cut efficiently.
Another good point, thanks!
What would be a possible option to modify my drill press to hold a tslot cutter? 1/2" shank
@@mikefromspace I use a router when cutting t-slots as hardwood is better
I doubt you would get up to the required speed and you would end up 'forcing' and possibly damaging the drill press itself
Just my opinion though
Would using an end mill for cutting holes without any side force work?
I need to cut a trigger pattern into a flywheel perhaps using a rotary table, drilling would not leave a consistent depth and shape cut.
Yes, absolutely. I use them in a chuck to do flat counter sinks for socket head cap screws. The only thing you have to look out for is that there are center cutting endmills and non center cutting endmills. So if you do not drill a pilot hole first you need to make sure your endmill is center cutting. And if you do make a pilot hole first with a non center cutting mill that the pilot hole is big enough. It is also nice to start the hole with a drill that same size that way the edges of the mill have a guide to get started. Go slow and use oil. Works great!
I was thinking of using my 75amp drill press to hold a tslot cutter and make a tslot table by mounting the drill head onto a solid round bar with 1/2" plate... and then mounting that on the cnc, but after seeing this, looks like I should give up on the idea. If there's no way to mod my press to properly hold something (what?) then I'll need to winch this 1000lb chunk of metal back into my pickup and take it to the machine shop to get it done. Any suggestions? my tslot table metal is 34x39x2.25, steel.
Hello Mike, I went and watched your video on the t-slot table. If I understand correctly, you are thinking of cutting the slots with a drill press? Honestly, I cannot see how that would work. I mean a t-slot cutter cannot take relief cuts so you will be taking a full 1/2"?? depth cut with a 3/4"? wide cutter. That would be a really tough slow job for a Bridgeport much less a drill press. If you can figure a way to do it I would love to see the video. But it sounds like a lot of chatter and frustration to me. Best!
@@theeddies Yes, I jumped the gun buying the metal, and had no idea about warping, blanchart grinding, and the cost of it! So I ended up buying a used tslot table. Won it at eBay auction. Appx 50x24 tslot area x7" with drain catch. All I have left to buy is steel framing and paint.
Honda makes forged copper aluminum forks. That material they push in as a cold peanut butter consistency would make amazingly strong and cheap tslot beds.
@@mikefromspace nice find on the table. I look forward to the rest of the build. Best!
I still would not use endmill for counterboring. Often times a drill chuck jaws are not running true/concentric. That means one flute is doing all the cutting and cutting oversize. Still had potential to suck endmill into the workpiece. Use the correct holding method always.
I do it all the time for wood and aluminum. I've got an X Y table mounted on the drill press table to use it as a mill. I do have a good Jacob super chuck, which helps, and I did clean the tapers on the press and chuck for maximum holding power. I also used a dab of removeable loctite 242 when I assembled the chuck. One caution is to never climb cut, and take very conservative cuts in aluminum.
These chucks were NOT designed to take side-loading & WILL come loose, you are playing with fire... 🙄
@@peterfitzpatrick7032 But I do it all the time! I have yet to see this subject come up where some du,,,,,,uh,,,one doesn't say "but I do it all the time"! I had that discussion with a friend of mine who INSISTED it was ok in Aluminum (he also even milled it in his drill press until he bought his mini-mill which is really dumb)! He insisted that is until it finally did come out (and no Loctite does not guarantee it will not happen for reasons explained in the video), when that thing came loose it dropped down, not enough to fall out but enough to wobble wildly, causing the mill to shatter throwing a piece so deep into his forearm it actually stuck in the bone in his lower arm! I know we all have had end mills break/shatter and it's no big deal but shattering while in a thrashing drill chuck is apparently a whole different story!!!
@@catman4644 Some people just never learn... I have a Clarkson chuck on my Van Norman mill... it takes the threaded shank cutters and is designed to be incapable of allowing a cutter to even spin in it, if the cutter trys to turn it pulls the collet tighter into the nose taper... it cost around €250... and that was 25 years ago....😕
I thought you were going suggest how to convert a drill chuck that has a Morse taper for milling. I am not able to use a drawer bar to hold a collet on my drill press.
One of the points of the video is that drill chucks are terrible for milling except in very soft material with very light cuts especially if using with something like a drill press which introduces it's own list of rigidity issues. But, the only possible way I can think of to "secure" a chuck to a morse taper without a draw bar is to tap some threads into the end of the morse taper on your spindle, drill a hole through the throat of the drill chuck, and screw the chuck to the taper. As most spindle tapers and drill chucks are made of somewhat hardened steel this presents its own challenges.
My Enco combo Mill/Lathe came with a chuck on the mill head. What do you suggest I do about using the mill?
Your Enco has a tapered spindle to change tooling. Knock the chuck out and get some tooling to hold end mils. I will send you a link to my video "Basics 1" in another message that will explain how this is done.
ua-cam.com/video/fcQuiuksseo/v-deo.html
@@theeddies I have been watching a few more of your videos. It seems like ER collets are the way to go. Can you suggest a bargain priced set for me to purchase? I thought you said the ebay ones are ok...
@@aprilakajoy73 They are all going to be about the same. I would recommend getting at least an ER32 set like his one amzn.to/35phUHU
You can find more complete sets or metric sets for more money. The difference in the really expensive sets is going to be a little better quality control. An alternative would be to buy just a holder from eBay or Amazon and get a few collets that you think you will need for some place like MSC or Travers. They will be more guaranteed quality. The holders are essentially all the same in my opinion. They are pretty easy to manufacture unlike the collets. I have a mix of cheap and more expensive collets and find the more expensive have a bit better fit and finish. Also if you buy the super cheap ones in SAE or imperial sizes, be aware that they may say they are SAE but are probably metric equivalents. They work fine but you can tell they are a bit tight to get the end mill in and out of the collet.
Check your spindle size though. It is probably morse taper 3 which is what the link is but it may be 4 or 2 OR if you are lucky it is an R8 spindle. If it is R8 you will have some more options and the regular R8 collets are cheaper.
best!
Eddie
@@theeddies Thank you!
Great article, however, what if you do not need to do much mill work? Can you use a drill press. The answer given by Popular Mechanics is YES! "How to Mill on a Drill Press" by Kenneth B. Littlefield January 1969 ~ 178 to 185 guess about the range and start page. Basically Kenneth takes care of the side load by using two roller bearing pressing against the side of the chuck. The bearings are mounted to a frame clamped to the column. I would add a third bearing to allow thrust in any directions with them 120 degrees apart. Then you need to buy a means of moving in the x y plane. I have a vise that is cheap but has those adjustments in the x y plane.
I am not here to say "no" to anyone, that is not the way I look at things but I will say this. The internet and Popular Mechanics before that is littered with "ideas" some great, some not so great. There are videos out there converting drills to mills, but not so much of people doing actual work with them. There are some, yes, but there are reasons why there are some not many.
I have what could be considered a big glorified drill press dressed up as a mill lathe combo and it has severe milling limits in DOC and speed that a drill press which is a 10th of the weight and size would be hard pressed (pun intended) to overcome. Can it be done? Sure. Should it? That's up to you. Do what you enjoy but go in realizing the limits of what you will end up with. Best!
Question about workshop vice(s). We have the cross-vice with x,y, axis. Any chance of one with depth adjustment, an x,y,z axis vice? T'would only take twin screwed wedges between
table and xy vice. How about you 3d print a prototype - for China to mass produce metal ones.
The table on the drill column and spindle both moves in z; wtf are you on about
@@blaksin Loosening clamps on spindle or column invites loss of xyz position reference. Fixed position cross-vice with single leed screw z adjustment would provide stability and accuracy between successive 2mm depth end mill cuts.
Quick answer; yes you can. However, 1/2" maximum diameter and cutting aluminum or wood. I've cut steel with this setup but wouldn't recommend it. Cat 50 taper for machine spindle and #4 MT for the drill chuck.
Awaiting Basics 3……. Be fast , be furious 😬
Cool. Good looking out for folks with questions.
Well we all have to start somewhere and I don't see Abom dedicating an SNS to mills in chucks.:-) Mr Pete would but I beat him to it.
@@theeddies FC MP Bridgeport Mill needs assembly $375.00
If you do any kind of follow up it's worth mentioning that when using an end mill to create a flat bottom counter bore one should have the work piece well secured in a vise that is also bolted down, because when you plunge an end mill into a hole if it walks (and they like to) and grabs it can be sudden violent ride that isn't like when a drill bit grabs.
@@johnstrange6799 Yes PSG mentioned that as well. It is an excellent point. The old shimmy shimmy shake chatter or These flutes were made for walking. I have not actually had that problem in the mill much sometimes in steel, but definitely a problem on the drill press.
Damn that's a video title that writes the script. These flutes are made for walking, thats just what they do, one of these day these flutes are going to walk all over you.
@@theeddies Oh. Duh! I see that now right in front of me in the comment. Okay. And I agree. They do want to walk, then they want to grab, and it's a free for all of competing torque forces all trying to win the heart of the end mill in a situation that isn't usually anywhere near as rigid as a milling table and milling vice, so calamity can ensue in an instant. It'll scare the shit out of you is what it will do. Or worse.
Can it be used to cut down the pedestals on vortech heads?
Straight down plunge cut would likely be fine. I personally would not try moving side to side in that case. The end mill could snag and let loose and put a nick or gouge where you would not want one.
One way to keep taper shank from falling out of the spindle is to rub white chalk on the taper. Try it and you will see that it helps quite a bit, it wont fall out as much.
Directions unclear chalk is now stuck in spindle.
@@TheGalacticWest RUB the chalk on the surface of the taper of the tool , Just to have a coating on the surface. To remove the chalk that is stuck use a stick or a wire.
How about I just Spot weld my chuck to the drill press??
I have seen woodworkers use an end mill to clean out a mortice and flatten the bottom. Since wood is soft company to metal the forces action on the chuck are much lower.
My Inca 259 tablesaw has a horizontal chuck and mortise table attachment. I use end mills for floating tenons and they work great. Not sure about metals..
Why can't I find anything about spark Drills? You can spark your way through any metal in any shape with any shape bit you can make fit out of about any metal
Do you mean EDM?
Okay if a drill chuck not the right thing to use what do I use please thank you
Check out this video, it will give you a basic idea of the types of common end mill holder and how to use them. ua-cam.com/video/fcQuiuksseo/v-deo.html
Thanks,
Eddie
@@theeddies got it thank you very much I've been looking around but nobody's exactly explaining in detail what to do and to buy to do it the right way thank you very much
@@raymondholley1009 You are welcome. It will give you an idea of the options.
I *do* use a drill chuck for milling wood, but it's simply not accurate enough for precision metalwork (plus, drill chucks can't handle the lateral force)
I have used windmills in my drill chucks many time. How ever I was using Jacobs Super Chucks.
if im spotting, doing a quick counterbore...
otherwise, tap tap, spend the next hour hunting down the imperial drawbars current hiding spot... realise you had to sacrifice that collet for some job and you never restocked... start digging through spare tools, swearing theres a different shank in there...
I just just a drill chuck but I’m not doing anything crazy that needs to be precise. There was a shop going out of business last year with a really nice mill that came with everything for 1200 bucks and I didn’t buy it! Anything as nice as that one it a good 4000 bucks
Whatever get the job done!
i HAVE A HARBOR FRIGHT DRILL PRESS FOR 8 YRS, IS OUT ABOUT 2000. WHICH I DON'T THINK THATS BAD. IN SAYING SO, I USE END MILLS ON IT BUT BEING VERRY CAREFULL WHEN I DO I DON'T STRESS IT A LOT. I KNOW ABOUT LAT. MOVE MIT. I DON'T HAVE A LATHE TO DO ANY THAT MUCH WORK AND IM RETIRED, IM IN THE POUSES OF A 3 PH. MOTOR AND VFD ON THE DRILL PRESS. I LOVE H/F.
Awaiting Basics 3……. Be fast , be furious
lol, thanks! I will have another one in about a week.
Why cant I just chuck a collet with a draw bar in a drill press and mill?
You can. Not the question I was asked though. Tapered spindles with collets or endmill holders and draw bar are going to be the optimal way to hold any endmill.
I can't really disagree with you. The only proviso I would come up with is for the very small drill presses, using small mills with light cuts, you can get away with the drill chuck. Still, if you are going to be using a Harbor Freight Cheap drill press for this, then take due care for all the things that you just covered. I will have to look at my Central Machine drill press and see if the taper that the drill chuck is mounted to comes out of the spindle.
Make that endmills. Darn spellcheck
Heck...I've put an end mill in a modified HF router to mill out an 80% lower.
Routers generally have collet chucks and are designed for some amount of side force on the spindle unlike drill presses.
Honestly thought about using a junk router I have and an x-y vice my great uncle had on his (now my) drill press to make a rudimentary mill. :v
@@jackpijjin4088 A router does an impressive job on aluminum and of course wood. I wouldn't even try to mill steel with one......? Hmmm, now I'm curious what would happen.
Sadly... my collet holder has runout approximately equal to my drill chuck.
yikes
got it, so what you are saying is 'get yourself a real milling machine' ?
I am not specifically saying that, I am just giving the relevant facts. If that is what you took away from the video, then you have made an informed decision.😊
Using a drill press to mill sideways is like grinding on the side of a grinding wheel.
This is a good way to force a bad habit.Just cut the point off a drill bit flat and use it
That would be fine for making a flat bottom in a blind hole in wood, but NOT an endmill, lol.
How about putting one in a router instead?
There are people that do it.
ya but ! if its all you have i hope it works for you ! if you don't have to don't do it !
You can mill plastics with a drill chuck
I sent all most 50 years as a tool & die if I ever saw you doing that you would never do it again
Not on my mill
If you don't believe this presentation, just try it out and watch the chuck come flying out of the drill press. That's why there are milling machines AND drill presses. The right tool for the right job.
Well said! Thanks!
40 years in the business. I would never recommend using a drill chuck to hold an end mill if you have any other option. I am retired and have an old WWII era Delta drill press that has a screw on chuck and is built like a tank. Even with that the milling results are crummy at best. None of these cheapo drill presses from the big box stores are going to give you any kind of positive results. Plastic or extremely light cuts on aluminum is possible. Forget about any steel no matter how soft it is.
Best Idea is to NEVER use an End Mill in a Drill Chuck or Drill press for that matter . Not only is the drill "Chuck" NOT designed
for milling ( Side Thrust) but a "Drill Press" is NOT designed for milling EITHER . Drill press spindle bearing are NOT designed
for Lateral SIDE Thrust just like the drill chuck is Not either . Runout of a drill chuck JAWS are not concentric enough either
and like this video explains a Drill chuck JAWS only support an End mill on THREE edges or Points .
RIGIDITY and Bearings in a MILLING MACHINE are Very Different . If you wish to simply and ONLY perform a Very Light counterbore in Plastic or Wood using a Drill press , that is possible BUT be SURE the end mill is a SINGLE Ended mill
otherwise the endmill Cutting flutes that are inserted in the chuck will become damaged as well as the end mill will NOT SEAT
entirely against the internal part of the Drill chuck . A Disaster waiting to Happen !!
Great video and Explanation ! Well Done
Thanks for helping out the UNINFORMED Home shop Mechanics : ) STAY SAFE out There ! Cheers
No!
Sure you can break them.
No. Lol this is machine shop 101 basics
Slipping is bad, once u start to slip... u r slippin.
No. You can, but then you can cut your grass with scissors too if you want.
I have to say when I clicked on this video I was fired up with all kinds of responses to why you are totally wrong( I was expecting another ignorant defense of using a drill chuck to hold an end mill.
I was pleasantly surprised by your well done video.🙏🙏🙏 EVERYONE thinking of getting into hobby machine work needs to watch this video
Thanks! I tried to not present it as a "NEVER DO THIS" video and more as just "here are the facts..." All the best!
@@theeddies excellent job kind of a can you do this ,yes ,but it might be very dangerous . I hope the beginner gets this.
It is not just an accuracy issue but can be s VERY serious safety issue n a lot of cases
Again we’ll done
@@genecarden780 Thanks again!