Making Hazard Cartridges with the Crossen Cartridge Molds
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- Опубліковано 24 тра 2024
- My review of the Crossen Hazard Powder Cake Molds for making reproduction Civil War eras Hazard revolver cartridges. I go through all the steps of making the cartridges using the Crossen molds.
Information regarding Crossen products can be found here:
crossen-cartridge.company.site
Please visit my website for information about my Civil War revolver and carbine bullet molds: www.erasgonebullets.com - Спорт
Having made a few of these, you may find the following useful:
1/ A thin brass rod works well for mixing, and also for tamping the mix down into the mould before compressing. There's less surface area for the mix to stick to.
2/ For mixing, you can also smush the mix around in the flexible silicone bowl by pressing the sides together from the outside with your fingers. This distributes the water quite well in the mix. Then scrape every last bit out with the brass rod to get it all into the mould for weight consistency.
3/ The amount of water used in the instructions works well for me, provided you mix it well. Using a wooden stirrer will soak up moisture, hence you might need more.
4/ A woodworking clamp (the lever-activated type) works just as well as a reloading press.
5/ Drying can be speeded up a bit by putting the filled moulds into a tupperware box with a layer of silica gel etc. in the bottom.
6/ You really should dilute the nitrocellulose dope with acetone for painting the outside. The dry mix soaks up nitrocellulose quickly, so don't overdo it, and a couple of thin layers is better than one thick layer with undilted nitrocellulose. (I don't know about you, but I don't want too much nitrocellulose in a BP revolver - especially an original!).
7/ Look for nitrocellulose guitar lacquer online. It's the same stuff as the fletching glue that Crossen recommends, and the aircraft dope Mark used, and is perhaps easier to source.
8/ You don't really need to use 4F powder. I've made the revolver ones with Swiss 3F and also the huge .575 ones for the P53 Enfield using Swiss 1.5F. Just leave them longer to dry.
9/ If you look up John Crossen's UA-cam videos, he provides a link to download the 3d printing files for all the moulds and accessories for free.
Hope that helps!
When I was a small child ( in Dummerston VT. ) about 1952, I found a couple of the 44 size cartridges in the attic of the house we rented, after ALL THESE YEARS!!, I FINALLY found out what those " THINGS " were, I KNEW that they were some kind of cartridge, asked my dad what they were, HE didnt know either, ( firearms have been in my family since B4 the revolutionary war!!
That's too cool!!!
So your family would actually have a voice in Congress when it comes to the Two Aye!
@@dangeary2134 I dont think my family ever got into politics AT ALL!!, in fact my brother and I are the last of our brance of the Wheelocks.
Someone from France commented on my channel finding some in a wall while doing a remodel. I think a lot these went into surplus after the American Civil War.
The French also imported vast amounts of US civil war arms and ammo when they were losing the Franco Prussian war badly.
Thanks Mark, when filling the molds each one needs to be weighed. I have changed the dextrin and water to 3 percent. 24 grains of powder, .72 grains of dextrin, and .72 grains of water for a total weight of 2.44 grains. After drying the weight will be about 24.72 grains.
The PDF instructions have been updated with the new ratios and making batches of 6.
Thank you so much for your work, Mr. Crossen. Now I have to get my printers up and running right so I can print your files to make cool stuff. :)
Thanks for another history lesson had no idea they made bullets that way. Also pointing out the weight difference between cakes not made using a scale was an eye opener! Thanks Mark
If you want the final mixture 5% by weight it would be 90gr black powder, 5gr water, 5gr dextrin... doesnt seem like alot but it's a 10% differance and might be why you find you need to add more water...
The forbidden vitamins
Ah... good old SIG nitrate dope. I suppose nitrocellulose "balsa cement" works too - Ambroid, SIGment or Duco brand. There's also nitrocellulose lacquer sold for finishing furniture. I wonder if replacing some of the water with, say, isopropyl alcohol wouldn't allow quicker drying. I suppose if you need more cartridges quicker you could buy multiple kits.. 😁 My inclination (being a 3D printing enthusiast) would be to design and print my own molds.
Great stuff, Mark! I bought the set, too, and am really looking forward to making some of these.
I was forced to make these as foster kid when I turned 7 my family had been making bullets for hodgdon powder for years then they adopted me and three others after adopting 350 other kids I do not miss it one bit
Hope you're doing good foster care sucs
Thanks, Mark. I ordered a 44 kit after watching your video. I plan on using it with the Kerr mold I purchased from you!
I was waiting for the final test 😢, that's a good idea. Best regards from Venezuela.
I would have never known about these w/o your video. Thank you so much. Pretty cool method I have to say. Will try it as soon as possible.
Cool Beans! Thanks for the demo I ordered a set to go w/ your Johnson&Dow mold I got from you some months ago.
Ive been gluing pyrodex pellets to conicals for years
Smart man
Now thats pretty cool mark. Definitely have to try this.
Very interesting. Just a note: you are not limited to 6 cartridges per 48 hours - given that the moulds are 3D printed, they are probably cheap as chips, so you could have a hundred of them and do a batch of 100 cartrdiges at a time.
Very true. Mark bought the kit, though, that contains just six moulds plus the funnel etc, hence he's basing the video on that.
Mr. Crossen has an account on Prusa's Printables web site that he links to in his videos. He has quite a few files to print a lot of neat tools you can use with paper cartridges and the Hazard style catridges, even templates to make cartridge boxes for them.
I think I can come up with a mold that will work for my .50 muzzleloaders an save me a ton from pellets. Thanks
That silicon bowl is meant to be soft so that you can knit it between your fingers. Also mix with each ingredient as weight everything separately. Adding 30% ethanol to the water will reduce drying time but also increase the fire risks due to the fumes this will create.
These molds are 3D printed, from PLA most likely nor to difficult to design in CAD software. There are a couple free designs as STLs out there to download as well. One just has to print up a bunch of these to go into micro mass production.
Nitro glue is common with archery and other hobby applications, just google to find a local variety. Fume hazard applies here again.
Mr. Crossen has an account with Prusa's Printables web site where you can download the files he uses to make the formers, along with some other useful files he's uploaded, for free. I gotta get off my butt to get my printers back up and running right so I can print a batch using PLA and a batch using PLA+ (or Pro) to see which one can handle the pressure better.
@@wittsullivan8130 I think I have seen them there then - I would use PLA+ in that case as PLA is more glass like brittle on its own. ABS, ASA or Nylon will superior yet but need housed prints. What went wrong with your printer?
Another great video!
I recently fired J&D flash paper + flash glue cartridges in my Uberti Whitneyville Dragoon that uses the Walker grip frame. The powder charge was 30 grains of 3F. They were very accurate at a rest to a 25 yard target and only shot about 6" high as opposed to 13" high for the same cartridge using round balls. Just wanted to let you know I am very pleased with the J&D .44 performance. Also,
The revolver I used has a loading lever mouth that is factory made to fit conical bullets. FYI
the nipples on the revolver prefer CCI #10 caps and I lubed the mouth of the cylinders with homemade
beeswax, beef tallow, and Olive Oil lube.
Excellent teaching video!
duco cement and acetone is what i would prefer. just makes more sense too me, faster drying times and more ignittion
Great video!
Ha. Should be known as the sold out cartridge set hehehe. Must be popular. Thank you for posting.
Those of us who shoot wet collodion tintypes, ambrotypes and negatives use plain collodion all the time. It’s easy to buy.
I really enjoyed your video😃🙌
To ensure consistency, carefully weigh the powder mix wet.
Make one perfect finished weight cartridge so you know precisely how much you are adding to yield the perfect finished weight.
Place the wet powder load into a cartridge case of your choice and tap the case on a hard surface at least 2x and mark the powder level inside and outside.
Use a pipe cutter and cut the cartridge case to size and gig-up a handle for your new powder measue by volume.
The mold is too short for a proper compression load and should be made of metal with a pipe sleeve that goes over it and a longer ram to compress the powder in the mold consistently but, it'll work.
I'd contact the Uberti or another replica maker and ask for a worn out chamber boring / drilling tool because it's scrap to them however, pay for the shipping and any token charge because with it, you can make a perfect metal mold in brass😊
I hope this is somewhat useful 🙂
From my experience, if the black powder is compressed to much you loose a lot of power (less velocity on the chronograph).
@@Wayne72LEVRAI I was thinking about the .303 black powder pellets and thinking about the same need to precision. 👍
Well, I didn't even know this was possible! Wow.
These are cool!!
Original case-less ammo?
Good video
Interesting.
Cant waite to see how you load these and what kind of cylinder/chamber they require, and how they fit the chamber?
They fit just the same as a paper cartridge.
Try old piano keys for the varnish. It is still around mixed in nail polish and some lacquer paints (copper conductive for sure).
The fronts (not the top) of elephant keys is. Only the tops are b/c ivory soaks-up sweat, don't need that were the finger never goes. You'll know if it turns to slop in acetone. I used to put it on leather as dope to fill the pores with something besides oil and wax or tar. 💩 smells amazing after it dries.
i wonder hypothetically if they could be hard enough to get mag fed design , maybe like a broomhandle , lol but it has maybe a stainless 1858 barrel in ".44" and an electric ignition would be the problem otherwise it's sort of a replica, blackpowder only , type non ....hypothetically daydreaming ....thanks for the vid it looks like a must have or try for the skilled cap and ball shootist imo ....
EDIT: i think my gears were turning on the thought that a mag fed barrel for these (in fantasy ) would need a smooth chamber but it would not chamber any standard brass "round" though was all...and thanks for the vid i forgot to type
Thank you sir for your video!! I've been working on rebuilding an Army San Marco 1851 Colt .36 caliber revolver for a few months now. I've been seriously interested in the various ways of loading my revolver before going to the firing range. I'll definitely be looking into this product you have shown us!!😁👍🇺🇲
With percussion revolvers lingering well into the late 19th century and beyond, How long did Hazard produce these.....and what cartridge companies continues to produce paper Ctgs, into the post percussion era?
Unfortunately, Colonel Hazard lived up to his name. In 1913 a massive explosion at the plant destroyed it and also did quite a bit of damage to Hazardville - the workers' town nearby.
By that time, of course, percussion firearms were old hat, so I imagine they had ceased making these cartridges by then.
From what I've read, some companies made combustible paper cartridges into the 30's because of the amount of cheap surplus percussion pistols from the Civil War, there were still a lot of surplus cartridges still around. Paying $12 (or less) for a percussion revolver compared to $30 or more for a cartridge gun made them popular for poor folk, especially during the Depression when people had to hunt for food and needed low-income self defense options. (I'm guessing at the actual prices, I'm not a 100 years old and too lazy to do the research)
When a company designed a pistol, they wanted to sell the ammo, too, because it was more profitable, just like razor companies, except they didn't give away the pistol to sell you the cartridges. Some companies just made cartridges, like Johnston and Dow. The term "cap and ball" didn't become a thing until paper cartridges were no longer produced, forcing people to use loose powder, until Mr. Crossen and others went to work. :)
Hazard only made sold compressed cartridges from 1862 to 1864
That's cool but too much work I can turn out 50 paper cartridges in the time.
These would work for air pellet rifles. Before melting the barrel out
Nitrocellulose ...yeah, its been around a long time, also kind of explosive by itself when dried. Applied to cellulose/paper it becomes guncotton, which for a while was used to make billiard balls....until they went bang.
Ping pong balls are made with that, aren't they?
i think, it was playing cards,
It varies, the amount of nitration. Low like billiard balls and piano keys are flammable but do not go bang. It is somewhat different from high flash cotton. There are several types and several grades inside each type.
Do you think it's a good idea to make these charges for inline gear as well?? Between 45 and 80grains BP ? I tried firing a 31 grain sample just like that on a tile and it exploded with a pretty big bang. It seems too strong to me. Loose dust burns differently. I would hate to pull pieces of a rifle barrel out of my head :-) I have a Traditions Vortek Northwest Magnum rifle.
if you shoot it and it goes off it's better than nothing and if you have to shoot it for defense and it blows up they say that's the least of worries because your situation is worse needing to shoot it .../jkes
@@BurntKittyForge-pl8ol Um, thanks. Although this is not the answer I needed ;)
Instead of using water with the dextrin, couldn't you use a mix of alcohol and water to speed drying??
It will need water to fully dissolve and polymerize the Dextrin again, so only a fraction can be replaced with ethanol and it increase the fire risk while drying.
John Crossen recommends this - more to break the surface tension of the water than for drying, though.
Sam's Club has condiment cups that would be really good in stead of the Red cup.
i do wish you had finished with a firring still i like the vid
I did! Check the link to the firing video at the end of this one.
I'm surprised nitrocellulose didn't make them too powerful. I thought that nitrocellulose would the the best choice, but I thought that it would burn too fast and cause far too high pressures... and second to that, I thought that nitrocellulose was invented long after these bullets were ever used. Were they some kind of bullet used after nitrocellulose, but before cartridges? (during that short period of time?)
Nitric acid was more expensive than nitrate salts I think 🤔
@@fasted8468 Yeah, they only needed to burn down a forest to produce a pound of potassium nitrate... but then they would have to then turn the potassium nitrate into nitric acid to be able to make nitrocellulose. I just didn't think nitrocellulose was invented until after cartridges were invented. I don't know for a fact though.
@@fasted8468 I googled it, but got like 4 different answers. Some say 1851, some say 1855, some say 1862 and some say 1863. Even Wikipedia's short answer says 1855 and 1862 in the same google result of "when was nitrocellulose invented". I have no idea when the skin cartridges and hazard cartridges were used though. (I thought I was replying to a comment on skin cartridges that I watched today... but then realized it was the Hazzard cartridges video. I guess it don't matter either way though.
I just figured that with the nitrocellulose being used as an adhesive it would burn too fast and too powerful. When nitrocellulose was invented it couldn't be used as gunpowder, because it burned so fast it would blow up and gun they tried to use it in. They had to invent ways to slow down the combustion first.
Combustible paper cartridges were made using paper that was soaked in a combination of nitric + sulfuric acids during the Civil War Era. It is a dangerous process that should not be done at home. It was the same as modern flash paper. I make mine from flash paper and flash glue and they burn 100% clean without leaving any charred paper in the chambers. They also make 3F black powder burn cleaner. It is a totally different & superior process than soaking coffee filter papers in potassium nitrate and water which is basically an uninformed hoax seen in many YT videos.
@@robertrobert7924 Isn't nitrated paper the same as nitrocellulose? ...and if it is nitrocellulose, isn't it too powerful for a black powder rifle? Even a small amount of nitrocellulose can create too much pressure for a black powder gun... and mixing that with black powder, especially surrounding the black powder, because it can cause the black powder to burn much faster too (by igniting it all at once). I know nitrocellulose isn't always the best quality and poor quality nitrocellulose would work... but I wonder if anyone ever made too high quality nitrocellulose and blew up their gun on accident.
needs a 22 cal version for daisy VL's
Pretty cool but looks fragile and long time to make. I'll stick with my "Club" paper cartridges
Mr. Crossen shows off an original cartridge in one of his videos. he's got it in a plastic capsule, but it's held up for 150 years+ so far. :)
Those sold out quick.
If you look up John Crossen's UA-cam videos, he provides a link to download the 3d printing files for all the moulds and accessories for free.
@@robertstallard7836 I don't have a 3d printer set up to print them. I was just curious about the price so looked it up.
@@davinci3259pretty sure you can take those plans and upload them to a 3d printing site and order it as a custom order. Shouldn't cost an arm and a leg these days either.
Too bad that Crossen always appears to be out of stock.
takes a while to 3d print.
If you look up John Crossen's UA-cam videos, he provides a link to download the 3d printing files for all the moulds and accessories for free.
hell yeah 110% powder mixture lol
should be 90g of powder to get the right mixture.
I read this at exactly the right moment
Also explains why he needs " 6 or 7 percent water"
Good boom boom @@fasted8468
Appears to be neat but to slow for me .
Darn looking at the vid at 11:00
Why not just a 3D " ice cube type " tray you fill and let dry . Place a tooth pick in each cavity for removal .
ah, black powder and electric scale?????
Yeah I know! Did you see the sparks flying out of that scale. In all seriousness, at least use a scoop and not pure from the can.