I know most homes are not set up for it, but I am getting great results from the conservation treatment, boiling, soaking, and carding. I am done with sandpaper
Done that quite a few times over the years with many different firearms. That rust is like a cancer. You got to get it all out. My findings have been that it's just the beginning of the end. You can try to nip it, cold blue and constantly oil, but you're only delaying what has to be done. Nice video.
Thank you! many people don't understand that just getting the rust off and oil back on is the most important thing to stop the spread. Then if you have time and money have a complete polish and hot blue done if the gun is worth the extra cost. Thanks for watching.
Yea. I only use this as a last resort for very pitted spots that I really don’t want to completely reblue the whole rifle. Or if a customer doesn’t want to pay for a complete rebluing of an otherwise good gun.
It will wear off eventually with use but should last a year or two if applied correctly. Just recoat as necessary or bring it to a professional to have it Hot blued. The good thing is once the rust is removed, and the cold blue applied the damage will not get worse. Thanks for watching.
check out my video "Coating buffing wheels for polishing - Turnbull custom guns" ua-cam.com/video/nbTvEscCCwg/v-deo.htmlsi=921FQuvqpEDb1cYk and "Preparing a gun for bluing Part II - Remington 742 carbine" ua-cam.com/video/qkXsB6EL7XM/v-deo.html
If you’re in Canada; denatured alcohol is called “methylated spirits”. I found that out after running around town and hitting every home improvement store, hardware and paint store and being looked at like an idiot.
For light frosty rust, 0000 steel wool and gun oil but that chunky bit, I'd boil it in water and then card it and see if it comes out. If the barrel is pitted, I'd try to smooth it out as best as I can, then bead blast it and then parkerize it as it needs a rough surface to adhere to.
Also heating the metal prior to bluing increases its durability. Don't cook it, about 150°F is all that's needed. Propane torch and laser temp sensor helps a lot.
Another thing one could do afterwards is degrease the entire barrel and give it a few coats of boiled linseed oil. Iron workers that build yard art have been protecting metal for decades with it.
I removed rust from a barrel that was about that bad using only steel wool and it took all day then I cold blued it and 5 years later you still can't tell the spot was there
Nope. I do however use heavy coats of compound that usually holds the top separations in the muslin together on the polishing surface. It's not as hard as a stitched because it has some flexibility under the compound since the 8" behind it is not bound together like in a stitched.
Of course you can just chelate the rust completely off by soaking it in a chelation solution. This way no base material is removed until you're ready for a full repair.
Yes that will remove the rust, and on some guns that may be all you want to do to stop it from progressing... but your barrel will still have the pits from the rust. In order to remove the blemish made from the rust all you will need to remove the base metal repolish and re-blue the metal. Thanks for your comment.
The spot will stand out in about 10 to 15 days and it will always stand out. You have to re-blue the entire barrel to have the bluing look good. I have seen these cheap techniques many times before. If you want it done right you have to find the guy that only does repairs the right way.
As I mentioned at the start and the end of this video. This is for the person that can't get to, or afford a professional bluing service. I do outline the way we would repair rust and caustic hot blue firearms in our shop in the following videos, ua-cam.com/video/Cm58xhFqsiI/v-deo.htmlsi=Uspjo1bjpAr5adEw ua-cam.com/video/qkXsB6EL7XM/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/vrIcusaJEkg/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/X3vRS5BibC8/v-deo.htmlsi=kaySeJcbhMY-mihS feel free to check them out. As always thank you for your comment.
Lol. I'm just the opposite. The smell is linked to the tradition for me. If I could find flannel like they used to wear back in the 30's-40's I'd be in heaven.
Excellent work, for a quick and painless process. Easy steps, nothing difficult.
Thank you for your support!
I know most homes are not set up for it, but I am getting great results from the conservation treatment, boiling, soaking, and carding. I am done with sandpaper
Done that quite a few times over the years with many different firearms. That rust is like a cancer. You got to get it all out. My findings have been that it's just the beginning of the end. You can try to nip it, cold blue and constantly oil, but you're only delaying what has to be done. Nice video.
Thank you! many people don't understand that just getting the rust off and oil back on is the most important thing to stop the spread. Then if you have time and money have a complete polish and hot blue done if the gun is worth the extra cost. Thanks for watching.
Wow!! I really like videos like this! Thanks
Good info. I have about a half dozen like that I need to get to. Lol
Yea. I only use this as a last resort for very pitted spots that I really don’t want to completely reblue the whole rifle. Or if a customer doesn’t want to pay for a complete rebluing of an otherwise good gun.
Nice job, Don!
Thanks
Rig works good,takes a bit of elbow work but is effective.
Nice video. Very educational. Does cold blue hold up well or will it rub off eventually?
It will wear off eventually with use but should last a year or two if applied correctly. Just recoat as necessary or bring it to a professional to have it Hot blued. The good thing is once the rust is removed, and the cold blue applied the damage will not get worse. Thanks for watching.
Can you talk more about your buffing wheels and compounds?
Great job on the videos!!!
check out my video "Coating buffing wheels for polishing - Turnbull custom guns" ua-cam.com/video/nbTvEscCCwg/v-deo.htmlsi=921FQuvqpEDb1cYk
and "Preparing a gun for bluing Part II - Remington 742 carbine" ua-cam.com/video/qkXsB6EL7XM/v-deo.html
FYI hoppes 9 oil is good but trans fluid will take more rust faster than anything I’ve used
Something about the detergents in trans fluid are stronger
I'll have to try that. Thanks for the suggestion.
I use dawn, comet and a little water mixed together as a paste and gets the rust and grease off. Also use totally awesome and it gets them clean.
ATF is also in RED'S (diy) bore cleaner.😊
Thank you
Very Impressive!
Thank you!
The alcohol that was used to clean the barrel after polishing, is it isopropyl alcohol?
Nope it was Denatured Alcohol, Thanks for watching!
If you’re in Canada; denatured alcohol is called “methylated spirits”. I found that out after running around town and hitting every home improvement store, hardware and paint store and being looked at like an idiot.
For light frosty rust, 0000 steel wool and gun oil but that chunky bit, I'd boil it in water and then card it and see if it comes out.
If the barrel is pitted, I'd try to smooth it out as best as I can, then bead blast it and then parkerize it as it needs a rough surface to adhere to.
Another good video for the person who wants to do stuff at home. 👌👍🦬
Thanks 👍
Thanks
No problem, thanks for watching and your support
I was surprised by how effective the steel wool was at blending in the new bluing
Yea. Cold bluing plays all kinds of visual tricks as it takes to the metal.
@@Turnbullcustomgunscold bluing does much better with the the finer grits and apply with 0000 steel wool
Also heating the metal prior to bluing increases its durability. Don't cook it, about 150°F is all that's needed. Propane torch and laser temp sensor helps a lot.
@@withoutprejudice8301 Good point. Almost like a shortcut to a rust blue. Thanks for your comment.
Hey could you do a video on how the slug a barrel to see if it is shot out , before taking it to a gunsmith and wasting his time ?
Another thing one could do afterwards is degrease the entire barrel and give it a few coats of boiled linseed oil. Iron workers that build yard art have been protecting metal for decades with it.
why didnt you use brass wool?
It won’t remove the pits. Or get to the rust at the bottom of the putting.
I removed rust from a barrel that was about that bad using only steel wool and it took all day then I cold blued it and 5 years later you still can't tell the spot was there
specifically what kind of file are you using? thanks
That file was a Nicholson double cut # 0 But personally I like a single cut better. Thanks for watching!
That 320 grit wheel looks like it's stitched.
Nope. I do however use heavy coats of compound that usually holds the top separations in the muslin together on the polishing surface. It's not as hard as a stitched because it has some flexibility under the compound since the 8" behind it is not bound together like in a stitched.
Could the pits be tig welded after the rust has been removed? I have an 1886 Winchester barrel that has deep blood rust pits,
Welding can warp your barrel
Of course you can just chelate the rust completely off by soaking it in a chelation solution. This way no base material is removed until you're ready for a full repair.
Yes that will remove the rust, and on some guns that may be all you want to do to stop it from progressing... but your barrel will still have the pits from the rust. In order to remove the blemish made from the rust all you will need to remove the base metal repolish and re-blue the metal. Thanks for your comment.
The spot will stand out in about 10 to 15 days and it will always stand out. You have to re-blue the entire barrel to have the bluing look good. I have seen these cheap techniques many times before. If you want it done right you have to find the guy that only does repairs the right way.
As I mentioned at the start and the end of this video. This is for the person that can't get to, or afford a professional bluing service. I do outline the way we would repair rust and caustic hot blue firearms in our shop in the following videos, ua-cam.com/video/Cm58xhFqsiI/v-deo.htmlsi=Uspjo1bjpAr5adEw
ua-cam.com/video/qkXsB6EL7XM/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/vrIcusaJEkg/v-deo.html and
ua-cam.com/video/X3vRS5BibC8/v-deo.htmlsi=kaySeJcbhMY-mihS
feel free to check them out. As always thank you for your comment.
There's a forest in those trees, somewhere. Keep looking...
Has anyone tried Evapo Rust?
Can't stand the smell of hoppies on my hands
It is hard to get off for sure. Gloves help but doesn't elevate it. Thanks for watching
Lol. I'm just the opposite. The smell is linked to the tradition for me. If I could find flannel like they used to wear back in the 30's-40's I'd be in heaven.