Pluses And Minuses Of Lyman, RCBS And Lee Bullet Molds: VR To Stephen Riddick
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- Опубліковано 1 січ 2017
- Like most shooters beginning in bullet casting, the wide array of available bullet molds provide difficult decision making...Here is a breakdown on the advantages and disadvantages of iron versus aluminum bullet molds...
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When we buy our Molds we need to understand that it takes maintenance, even if we have aluminum mods of ones made of brass. I guess some more than others. Break cleaner sold at Walmart in the automotive section works good at degreasing a mold the you have previously oiled for storage, and pre heating molds on a inexpensive hot plate helps bring the mold up to temp for less of the rejection of castings. You did a Justice to all the molds out there that are available to us out there Steve.. Good video and good casting sessions to you my friend. Dave
Thank you for sharing the years of knowledge in your head. I just today, bought my first mold ever. 124gr RN RCBS steel 2 bullet mold. On sale from brownells.
I’m diving headfirst into making my own projectiles.
Once again, an extremely useful and fun video. Thank you.
Thanks FC, started with the Lee Molds for Cowboy stuff and they work really good. Will be staying with them for now. Good molds at a great price. Happy casting to ya :-)
Good explanation of the advantages and disadvantages of iron vs aluminum. Thanks.
FC45LC you are a fount of reloading knowledge. Thank you!
Bob Hartman - Your taking the time to post these comments is much appreciated... Best to ya, Bob -- FC Steve
I love to watch your videos my friend and God bless you for that.
thanks again for a awesome video sir .
all the best for the new year.
great thanks out of new Zealand
I really appreciate your videos very helpful for me to start casting thanks 👍👍👍
Great video response to a great question.
Don’t use oil on your molds. Use spray tool preservative, which is designed for that. To speed up removal, use carb cleaner when the mold gets hot. Also, apiece if 1/4” or better across the pot is a good place to warm your molds. Place them with the sprue down. Remember, the first ton of lead you cast is the hardest
Another disadvantage of the Lee molds, THE STUPID SPRUE PLATE SCREW BACKING OUT! I have 18 Lee Molds and the screw has come loose on every single one. Some it happens the first session, some last a while. I lubricate them properly, but it still happens. I've just started installing set screws in all my Lee molds. It's so frustrating. I would gladly pay an extra 10 bucks for them to come with a set screw installed so I don't have to drill and tap all the stupid things. I think I'm done with Lee molds. I recently ordered a NOE mold, so we will see how that goes once I get it. I'm tired of having to mess with prepping, "Leementing", and messing with that stupid sprue plate screw on every one of them.
great info. had to put my casting on hold a while back but going to get into it soon and need molds. thanx for the video 😉👍
Great Video as always!
There is a lot of info in this video, very interesting. I own 1 Lyman and 4 lee molds. I inherited the Lyman and the Lee's I purchased myself because of the cost. I have an old 1 cavity mold that is for a .440 round ball it is like the old one you showed. Bought it recently at a gun show for like $5. Several people I showed it to were baffled at why it was different from current molds. Now I have some background on it, thanks.
FortuneCookie45LC thank you very much for taking the time out of your life to do this very informative video for a perfect stranger like me living on the other side of the planet it's very much appreciated.
Very good question/suggestion!
Jake Outdoors
Thank you
FortuneCookie45 is a really great guy and youtuber he is top dog on the subject of reloading period .
Stephen Riddick Definitely top dog! It appears as though he is on the "front lines" of this powder coating bullet craze too. I bet he has more knowledge on the subject than the big ammo manufactures. Best part is his willingness to give others helpful advice and encouragement.
Jake Outdoors
Agree 100% I asked him if you can wet tumble without removing the primer and the thing is he gives his many years of experience that probably cost him a lot of money trial and error and he gives it free to people like me who lives on the other side of the planet . brilliant
Jake Outdoors and Stephen Riddick - I really think I can speak for many fine YT posters when I say that we would be glad to do such for great viewers like yourselves...It's like this - some would say it's good business, but what it really is, is viewers are customers, and taking care of customers is the best way to build relationships. Best to ya for a fine 2017..!! FC
One advantage to iron/steel molds is the capacity to cast higher temperature metals such as brass, pewter, or anything experimental as long as it does not violate laws protecting law enforcement. Of course lead casts have a lot of challenge regarding weight, hardness and barrels, but having the ability to try other metals just seems to the biggest advantage to iron molds. I can't say it enough, Thank You Fortune Cookie for sharing your knowledge and coming up with these tests.
Lyman bullet molds are made from heat treated, leaded steel. They feature hardened steel alignment pins and flat ground sprue plates held in place with tempered steel spring washers and screws.
They are not iron
All valid content. Much appreciated. Prices have gone up 150% though :(
Thank you for making these helps a lot.
DA - And thank you for posting... Have a great 4th..!! FC Steve
Great info.
Thanks for the grate info
hello fc,a elektric heat controled cooker plate ,is ideal for warming up the iron moulds ,a sponge in a foodplate with water is ideal for cooling down a aluminiumould
.dont waite long for solidifying with the lee 6 cavity ,i move the spruplate almost direct a littlebit as the color changes of the filling ,that way there is almost no resistance and no force is needed for opening some later, with other alu molds the same
great topic
Thank you so much for your videos, I'm just starting casting with my son because of your great info, one question, is the a mold that could be used to create mini ball for 12 gauge?
Lyman bullet molds are made from heat treated, leaded steel. They feature hardened steel alignment pins and flat ground sprue plates held in place with tempered steel spring washers and screws.
Nice video and good info FC. I've been casting with lee molds, but I'm getting ready to step up to iron.
Erica Pelz - Please let me know how it goes for you, and the particular mold you will be using - always fun to hear from other casters... Best to ya, FC
Can you elaborate on where you get galling on the Lee 6 cavity? I want to prevent this on my .45 swc. Thanks fortune!
Always enjoy your knowledge btw.
I have molds from Lyman, Lee, SAECO, NEI (now defunct), RCBS, and NOE. All produce high quality cast bullets.
Great info! I'm just curious, have you ever soldered a brass mold together? I've heard a couple horror stories about them in the past, but I've never actually heard what someone can do if it happens. Thanks again!
Turn Luke to the darkside...so does that make you Emperor Fortune Cookie? Great video, I've been thinking about getting a mold from Arsenal Molds in one of Keith type bullets. BTW I got a Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure last week and I am extremely pleased with it, very consistent and very easy to operate.
Great vid FC. I love casting, I find it very therapeutic unfortunately I struggle with accuracy with all my cast projectiles. I need more practice I think.
Keep casting and reloading. You will find the load that works for you and your gun besides you'll be having fun putting your loads together and shooting.
On all my handle to the molds. I bought a bag of scrap leather from Amazon. I wrapped all the handle in the hot zone of the mold handles. Glued them with CA glue. Now they always stay comfortable in your hands. Cast for an hour or so and you start chocking up on the handles towards the hot zone. I fixed the problem.
With the iron molds, would constant shifts in temps stress the molds? My shop is heated by wood burning stove and can get around 40 degrees in the winter, maybe colder.
Even tho I don’t think I’ll ever cast, I still find the subject interesting and where else would I find info like this. Watched my neighbor cast some bullets last week using Lee 2 cavity molds. I should have asked if I could have done a couple.
FC, do you have a good sign for when the Lee molds are getting to hot ? Or when not hot enough ?
Between the two, if all other factors were removed like rust or improper lubing causing premature wear, do the iron molds have a longer casting life to them than the aluminum molds or is that number so high a person would not likely encounter that in their lifetime of casting with either type of mold?
As a person that wants to do this one day is the round ball or concave better to start with and I was wondering if you could use pam cooking spray on the molds
Hi, Mr cookie. I think that aluminum's thermal properties are a major advantage. Aluminum heat cycles faster. This means your bullets cool enough to drop free faster. This both allows and requires fast consistent casting speed. I would prefer that to an iron mold with the opposite traits. Who wants to go slowly ?
Exactly. Iron has a few down sides. The biggest is rust. Iron is always a big pain to keep oiled and then you need to get all the oil out. With nothing to inhibit the rust you must keep iron oiled when not in use, it will rust otherwise. Just a matter of time. They need a lot of care. The aluminum molds are where it's at. You can afford more molds and they last and last and last just as long as any Iron mold and the castings will be more consistent. They need no care at all. True they take a bit longer to heat up but they also cool off quicker.
Hi fc45lc. I have a lee 6 cavity mold that I was casting with the other day. I was having some issues with the molding closing completely. It seemed that when I closed the spruce plate in was pushing the mold open slightly. I loosened the bolt where the plate locks in to and it solved the problem. Do you think by doing that I might encounter some other problems?
Tried the aluminum Lee's myself, being quite cheap. I'll agree with every bit, but I'll add that my experience with Lee handgun bullets is that they are fine for handgun, but don't perform as well in pistol carbine. And Lee bullets just don't drop as crisp and clean like the Lyman bullets do. Over time, I've been replacing my Lee with Lyman, and looking at some Saeco even, because I hate working so hard to keep the aluminum in that sweet spot, especially with my high demand for close bullet weight. At some point I think the weight is worth the quality, especially when rifle and 100+ yards are considered.
Still, those double Lee molds are impossible to pass up. $20 on sale, and you can get double cavity ball molds you can only get single with the iron molds, and at a tiny fraction of the cost considering the double Lee comes with handles attached. I'll say iron is better, but Lee can make certain products so well for so cheap you can't possibly pass them up.
I have used Lee Lyman and Saeco molds. The Lee molds show signs of wear after casting a few thousand bullets and do not cast as nice as the other two. Lee is a great way to get into casting. The Saeco and Lyman molds will drop perfect bullets every time from the first cast in a cold mold. The Saeco molds will tend to get lead smear under the sprue plate but the Lyamn mold is clean after many thousand cast.
NOE, Accurate, MP, Arsenal, and a few others are going to be you're Premium/top-shelf molds and they are very, very nice but you do pay for it. Some of the only places to get hollow point molds and hollow base molds are from the boutique mold makers or sending an existing mold off to be hollow pointed. That said, LEE, RCBS, Lyman (Ideal, historical) make great molds too. I have a good collection of high end molds but I still have and still by molds by LEE.
My favorite molds are the NOE molds and sadly, the long discontinued Hensley & Gibbs molds. A nice brass NOE RG mold is like casting with a Rolls Royce but its also a treat to grab the handles on a lovely H&G or pre-war Geo A. Hensley! There is no way to get some of those old bullets anymore if you want the exact thing. Pour some hot ones!
You have been holding out on us Bud.. I for one would like to see your collection of molds and casting guy. That would be some good coffee content. Dave.
Thorsaxe777 Ya, perhaps a little! I need to go warm up my casting pot! I recently moved and I still need to get everything dug out and set back up! I'll have to do a video on that here in the near future!
mytmousemalibu Cool,, I'll be looking forward to it guy.
I have a general bullet casting question. Do you feel that a gas check is needed if you powder coat a bullet, in particular a high velocity rifle bullet?
Good review ! I can't wait for the "advanced" bullet casting mold video. When do we take the plunge and buy a custom mold ? It takes a lot of research to know if buying a custom mold is right for you. I just got mine from accurate molds- but I knew what I was going to use it for and why. You had a choice of steel, aluminum or brass. But brass can melt if you don't know what you are doing so I went with aluminum. Do you have any custom molds LC ?
Do you have any information on Lee hollow point molds? I just got one and can’t wait to try it. It will be slow going since it’s a ONE cavity mold.
this video could not have come at a better time. wish I knew this information before I got my lee 1 oz and 7/8 oz slug molds. what if you just dipped your iron mold in wax to keep it from rusting?
Showing the steel molds, you picked up the one on your far right (about 5'52") several times as you spoke. Was the sprue handle tensioned properly or was it loose? In normal casting how much is required in the way of maintaining screws, pins, hinges, etc so nothing seizes?
pramponi - The steel molds have a tension washer on the sprue plate so that as we swing the sprue plate closed, it tightens up at the end to give us the good bullet bases. They can swing rather freely otherwise. And if the sprue plate screw is too tight, it will bind at the closure. Good castin' to ya, FC
Any idea of how cosmolene would work for storage of cast iron molds?
what brand of handles are those on the iron moulds?
Ever cast for .50 Beowulf? I'm considering getting into that round, and at 1800fps it seems like it would be a candidate for a cast, maybe powder coated bullet. IDK if you'd need to gas check it. Any thoughts?
Would you happen to know what the screw size is on a RCBS double cavity mold for .50 cal?
Hey FortuneCookie45lc That`s sweet knowledge thank you. If ya get a chance, I am kind of lost, Step Mold or Pin Mold is there a difference? other than looks? Thank you again.
If you don't mind, what is the mild # and manufacturer of the 230gr hardball for the .45 acp?
Maybe the Lyman Bullet Mold #452374 45 Caliber (452 Diameter) 225 Grain Round Nose? On the Lyman website it is the only round nose mold in 45 auto
I can see you like those molds. BUT tell about the price ? I like those molds to but LEE is much cheaper to buy
Holy crap, I just learned that I need to buy more stuff....my calibers are .22, .380, 9mm, .38sp, .44mag, .45acp, and in rifle I have .223, .308 and 300win mag.....sooo I guess i need lots and lots of molds???? ....the next step will be how to make my own gun powder smokeless, by now there is nothing anywhere!
hey fortunecookie45lc i feel like you the one guy on youtube with a ton of info about mold and casting. i have asked a few question in the past and i have one more for you. my coworkers uncle passed on and left him RCBS bullet molds. he sold them to me for 10 buck and they have rust on/in them what is the best way to remove it with out hurting the mold on the inside? thanks again for all the awesome videos and info.
MrChalupaMonkey - That tommygun armed ape is going to be formidable indeed. Rust is always a matter of degree. If light rust, you can rub it off without trouble. If heavy, naval jelly to remove it - but there will be pitting. If not too bad, no problem - your bullets will size and any remaining irregularities will be cosmetic only - If you powder coat, that will actually take the powder coating better. If the rusting is heavy or major, don't even bother. Send back to RCBS, they might even send you new molds...People have great choices in molds nowadays. The mold making industry has some serious competition. Best to ya, FC
I'd like an explanation of why you ignore M-P Molds. They make everything you say is "ONLY" available from Lyman or RCBS.
not exactly what i was looking for. so if im looking for historical reproduction pieces for casting lead roundball were could i acquire such a set?
James Smallwood - Wow, you want the real thing..!! If not, the answer would be easy, Lee and Lyman make roundball molds left and right, but you knew that already...for original stuff, you might have to go to Ebay and see what's available. Also, you might post want ads at local ranges - amazing what the shooters there have in their garages. Inquire with the rangemasters - some of those guys are really well connected. Also, calls to gun shops specializing in cowboy action stuff might be able to help you. Good mold hunting to ya, FC
Which one would you recommend for a beginner, aluminum or iron?
Cant go wrong with either. Aluminum isnt expensive and is less high maintenance. Iron is amazing but is expensive and require more TLC.
6:34 "You Scared Me!"
Great Review..............." Lee, Made by us Cheese Heads"...
FC45. what can you do to make the bases come out better? I have a Lee 6 cavity mold and I am getting galling and smearing on the mold and the bases have a pit or hole where the sprue was cut, but not cleanly. what can I do?
Steven Rogers - These are all normal happenings...when casts are coming out great, it's the sweet spot. You have left the sweet spot. To cure the lead smearing, lower your alloy temp slightly, then use a wet sponge - just plunk your filled hot mold right on top of the sponge - let it sizzle until your sprue frosts over, then cut the sprue - there should be no smearing. 2) If galling (unsmooth operation of a Lee mold) is happening, lube the mold. 3) To cure the sprue cut off - let the sprue harden just an additional five seconds and the wet sponge as needed. If you have some sprue irregularities, your bullet will be off balance, but no problems for plinking and recreation ammo or for shooting at 15 yards or less. Good reloadin' to ya, FC
Thanks FC... Just ordered some alloys from Roto Metals .
I was just watching your great cast bullet sizing controversy video and you stated that the Lee tumble lube bullet cannot be sized. Is that still true if you are powder coating?
Steven Rogers - I'm going to be doing some casting this weekend with RotoMetals 16 - 1 alloy Should be fun casting bullets with the same alloy that Elmer Keith used. Have a great day, FC
Cookie!!!!!
I know I'm bad, but I keep my Lee molds in a old dresser in my dank garage. I've never had rust of any kind.
Hans S. - The Lee aluminum molds have a good rust resistant advantage over the iron molds for sure... Have a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays, FC Steve
What do you think the best .223 bullet mold
time for some fpv action - That's a hard question to answer. Depending on the rifling twist of one's gun, that has a huge determination on what bullet might be the best...Slow twist needs lighter bullet and fast twist a heavier bullet. But cast bullets don't take fast twists as well anyway unless they are cast hard. Have a great day, FC
FortuneCookie45LC I have a 1:7 twist barrel
time for some fps action - That's a fast twist meant for stabilizing the long heavier bullets (I'm sure you are very aware of that)... The common 55 grainers from Lee and RCBS will not do. I'd recommend one of the NOE molds like their 72 grain GC or their 100 grain FN. If cast hard, the bullet would have a good chance to hold that fast twist. Good shooting' to ya, FC
If you're going to spend the money on a Rcbs or Lyman just go with a NOE. Stay away from Lee molds. I've had 2 Lee molds break on me from normal use. NOE make that 45 round ball mold too
lam the nao de mua 1 chiec khuong nhu vay
Dear Fortune Cookie:
I have a Big Lube mold that for all means and purposes is built just like the Lee 6 cavity mold. I have a problem with the handle on the sprue plate clashing with the right hand mold handle. Do you have any ideas about how to rectify this problem, it is not a huge problem, but one of about ten casts will have the sprueplate not fully seated against it's pin,
DD. I think the big Lube mould is made by Lee.
Dear Englishman French:
I have no doubt of this, though the molds all have an adjustment screw on the right side of the mold that bears on the cam on the sprue plate that allows adjustment. That is the only difference that I have been able to find. This is a slick and easy to use mold whose only fault being that it requires extra attention in getting the sprue plate completely closed, a small price to pay for such a nice mold. Fortune Cookie has just given me some fine advice on the use of the mold, so I'm just going to develop more careful habits in closing the sprue plate.
Sincerely Yours
Don Denison
Hello Donald Denison; The answer to your problem with the spru cutter is quite simple, if you undo the spru cutter pivot bolt with a 7/16" AF spanner, after marking the steel part and the wooden handle at the top for orientation/ reference, hold the steel part in the vice and drive off the wooden handle, hold the pivot section of the steel in the vice and knock a slight angle (3 deg) upward, then cut off 2 1/2" of the wooden handle, (this will give you a better grip on the mould handles), re assemble, and you will find the handle no longer hits the mould handles. This works vey well on the Dick Darstardly moulds. Good Luck! Chris B.
Dear Englishman French:
Thank you so much, I was not looking forward to developing a new and what looks like would be a difficult regimen to instill on an old fellow like myself. I had been considering doing something similar myself but using heat to make the bending easier, but was afraid to undertake it, believing I would cause the early failure of the part due to the stresses put upon it by heating and then bending, and the resulting changes in the grain structure of the metal. Believe me, I will be making the changes, and without the heat if I cannot easily change my molding habits. Knowing that others have been successful with this operation gives me confidence If I find it necessary to make this change. New habits are not easy to learn for a 75 year old man. Thank you very much. By the way, I like the bullets that this mold casts very much, and the quality of the mold is actually quite good, it is not like the old Hensley and Gibbs molds, but still quite a good mold.
Sincerely Yours
Don Denison
Donald Denison : I am so glad I was able to help on this, it was one of the first problems I encountered with this set up, the fact that the spru cutter handle prevents one from holding the mould handle was also a problem to me, which is why I cut off the 2 1/2" from the length, you can quite easily put enough bend in the steel part cold, but you must be sure to hold the pivot part of the lever in the vice jaws to prevent this area bending, you only want to bend the bit that goes into the wooden handle, do not try to bend it with the handle in place as it will crack the wood, it is also important to mark the top of the handle and lever so they go back in the same orientation, if you have any doubts/problems, ask before you hit it! From another old person, Chris B.
Lee supposedly makes custom-design molds, do I asked them if they would duplicate the Lyman '452460' (my favorite .45 ACP bullet)as a custom-design for me. They won't do it!
I absolutely second your comments on Lee. I called and tried to order a custom mold for my 45-70 Trap Door. The girl who relayed my call to the custom dept. commented (This was app. last Sept. or Oct.) they were about to be sold to someone. My experience with the "custom dept." degenerated into a negative diatribe by him against nose pour bullets. Ordering anything I wanted was not possible, only what they wanted to sell me. Why Lee spreads the BS that they make "custom" molds I fail to understand.
Beeswax for preservative
Reloading has just about priced me out of commission. If I was getting into it right now it would be a hard no. Equipment is just astronomical in price. Powder and primers are expensive and use to be fairly cheap. Twenty to thirty bucks per pound in 2008 and thirty bucks for 1000 primers. Looked up does the other day. Came across a 50bmg mold,(one mold), 1200 bucks. WTH!! Better use once fired brass, projectiles are going up every couple months. These molds you are showing are sixty bucks and up. A set of lee dies are fifty bucks which they use to be thirty. Thankyou Lord for allowing me to get into it when I could afford it. The advantage of saving money is certainly not across the board. Only in certain aspects.
Prices have gone up; a set of wood handles are now about $60.00--- not included with man molds, extra charge, have two buy them separately in some cases from some mfrs.