Now that was a big log for your mill, but it looked like it handled it pretty good and you accomplished what u set out to do👏 I use to run a Manuel mill I know them big logs real well and know how hard they are to handle. But you handled the boy and knocked it out. Great job…. Keep it up..
Man that head shake would drive me nuts! My HM122 doesn't wobble like that. I have the previous version from 2019, I wonder if that makes a difference. I've milled a few spruce trees that big, largest was a little over 26" at the butt. Amazing what these little mills can do. Nice work!
@@thetennesseefrugalcraftsma7383 now I'm curious if there is a difference between the 2 generations. I have a neighbor who recently got the newer one like yours. Whenever he gets to cutting with it I'll have to go check it out and see if there's any significant design change that maybe contributes. I really want to sell mine and buy the new one. Love the upgrades, especially that lap siding attachment they have. It won't fit my mill.
@@bearswartz2907 May be a combination of things. I had one contributor say that his mill shakes all the time but Woodland Mills cannot figure out what the problem is. One solution they say is to loosen all of the bolts holding the head together and let it "settle" and then retighten them but I have not tried this yet.
@@thetennesseefrugalcraftsma7383 I remember doing the shakedown when I put mine together. I was also super nuts about having my deck flat. Its close to level, but its damn flat. Do these new mills have the nylon tension bolts that tighten up against the upright posts? I had one of those vibrate out once, and I got a little head shake that time
With one end at 18" and one at 24", a toeboard could have proved very useful. Those first two bark removing cuts wouldn't have had nearly as much variation end to end and your pith would have been centered.
I have purchased a sawmill and am in TN and was wondering where you get pine. Where I am located cedar is king, very little pine in my area. Thank you for the video
I have not cut white pine yet. You can use white pine for 2xs if the grain is tight enough. Most of that is used for trim and non-structural building to my knowledge. It is not that it will not work for structural (2x4 and 2x6 studding), it is just not as strong especially for 2x10 headers and floor joists. Perhaps someone else can chime in on this as I am not familiar with white pine in structural use. In Canada where I did most of my building we used spruce and fir mainly. Pine was mostly used for trim work (non-structural). Here in the south, yellow pine is king for structures so I am told. I can see this to a degree because of the weight/density and the tight grains.
Anyone who would have liked an all hydraulic Cooks/Wood-Mizer/Norwood? I am dreaming of a Cooks production package but it's over 80,000$. My back is starting to demand all hydraulic, don't want to stop yet 🤭. Maybe a Logosol 1001 mobile hydraulic 🤔...
Before you started did you level the log so that your cuts are parallel to the pith? And have ever loosened all the main mill head bolts while on the track shook the unit to "settle" it in place? Then of course retightened all the main bolts. I know Woodland Mills has this in their literature. That roll back after each cut is a problem. I think your end of track is high there and no longer level. Just sayin' that is looks like it may be.
Yeah, the end of the track does need to be adjusted for level. I have not done that for a couple of months but I did notice the role back just yesterday. The vibration is due to the need for a new blade. I have not done the loosening of the bolts but the shaking goes away when I put a new blade on. As for the leveling of the log, I do normally but not with one so big. I was just happy to get it on the mill. I would need to put a tire jack under it to lift one end it was so heavy.
Hey Tennessee Frugal Craftsman, love your videos, and enjoy seeing the progress you are making. Keep it up. I do have a question. at 5:55 of this video, your HM122 seems to shake side to side? Is this something that you encounter often? I ask because I also have an HM122, I have struggled with this shaking side to side for some time now. I have tried countless things to resolve it, but have not solved this problem yet. Mine is so bad, that it actually has snapped 2 sharp blades with less than 1 hour on each blade. I mill Eastern white pine, it never used to happen, just started happening about 3 months ago. I only have about 30 hours on my machine. Just curious on your thoughts. Woodland Mills has tried to help, but nothing has worked. Thank you
Some of mine was related to the need to relevel the mill base. At times it can have to do with the sharpness of the blade. Other times it seems to be related to the height I am cutting at (the mill head is up all the way or close to it offsetting the balance a bit). This goes back to the first point, the need to level the saw base. I would try checking the level first though.
@@thetennesseefrugalcraftsma7383 Appreciate you taking the time to reply. I started using a wedge in-between deep cuts when the head is up high and noticed that made big difference for me anyways. Just thought I would share.
#33 Thanks for sharing 💕💜💚
Now that was a big log for your mill, but it looked like it handled it pretty good and you accomplished what u set out to do👏
I use to run a Manuel mill I know them big logs real well and know how hard they are to handle. But you handled the boy and knocked it out. Great job…. Keep it up..
Thanks 👍
@@thetennesseefrugalcraftsma7383 but it also look like that the blade was not very sharp. or the motor is to small. Is it a 14 hp?
Great footage!!! And great video. I’m glad I stumbled across your channel. We have the woodland mills hm 126 and love it!
Thanks for joining me!
Man that head shake would drive me nuts! My HM122 doesn't wobble like that. I have the previous version from 2019, I wonder if that makes a difference. I've milled a few spruce trees that big, largest was a little over 26" at the butt. Amazing what these little mills can do. Nice work!
Yes, the higher up the head is the more the shaking. Some of it is that the mill was a bit unlevel at that time and a dull blade did not help.
@@thetennesseefrugalcraftsma7383 now I'm curious if there is a difference between the 2 generations. I have a neighbor who recently got the newer one like yours. Whenever he gets to cutting with it I'll have to go check it out and see if there's any significant design change that maybe contributes. I really want to sell mine and buy the new one. Love the upgrades, especially that lap siding attachment they have. It won't fit my mill.
@@bearswartz2907 May be a combination of things. I had one contributor say that his mill shakes all the time but Woodland Mills cannot figure out what the problem is. One solution they say is to loosen all of the bolts holding the head together and let it "settle" and then retighten them but I have not tried this yet.
@@thetennesseefrugalcraftsma7383 I remember doing the shakedown when I put mine together. I was also super nuts about having my deck flat. Its close to level, but its damn flat. Do these new mills have the nylon tension bolts that tighten up against the upright posts? I had one of those vibrate out once, and I got a little head shake that time
@@bearswartz2907 they have nylon/Teflon spacers against the posts.
With one end at 18" and one at 24", a toeboard could have proved very useful. Those first two bark removing cuts wouldn't have had nearly as much variation end to end and your pith would have been centered.
yeah, at that time I did not always level my logs. Now I do.
I just use a scissor jack and a few blocks of different thickness
No point unless you’re wanting the pith centered
@@tnmonty501 Avoiding the pith makes for better lumber. Centering the pith makes for a better yield of pith free wood. So, yes, there is a point.
@@michaelkindy3850 he obviously wasn’t avoiding the pith
I just got a woodland mill and was wondering where do I find current prices on milled lumber. I also live in Tennessee. Any help would be appreciated.
It depends on the species of wood. I do not sell as a general rule so I am not sure on the current prices for, say, pine.
I have purchased a sawmill and am in TN and was wondering where you get pine. Where I am located cedar is king, very little pine in my area. Thank you for the video
It is on my own property. I have over 2 acres.
Paid for the mill with 1 log!
Is that hard on your back having the mill so low to the ground ? , some guys have the mill about knee high.would that be easier on your back?
It is not too bad. It is a tradeoff with not having to lift logs up high. ;)
About how long did it take to slice up 860 ft. ( after the tree was at the mill ). Cool video. Thanks
I did it over several days because I was working on other things as well. All together I would say about 8-10 hours.
have you cut white pine ? can it be used for 2x s ?
I have not cut white pine yet. You can use white pine for 2xs if the grain is tight enough. Most of that is used for trim and non-structural building to my knowledge. It is not that it will not work for structural (2x4 and 2x6 studding), it is just not as strong especially for 2x10 headers and floor joists. Perhaps someone else can chime in on this as I am not familiar with white pine in structural use. In Canada where I did most of my building we used spruce and fir mainly. Pine was mostly used for trim work (non-structural). Here in the south, yellow pine is king for structures so I am told. I can see this to a degree because of the weight/density and the tight grains.
@@thetennesseefrugalcraftsma7383 Thank you for the reply.
Anyone who would have liked an all hydraulic Cooks/Wood-Mizer/Norwood? I am dreaming of a Cooks production package but it's over 80,000$. My back is starting to demand all hydraulic, don't want to stop yet 🤭. Maybe a Logosol 1001 mobile hydraulic 🤔...
Before you started did you level the log so that your cuts are parallel to the pith? And have ever loosened all the main mill head bolts while on the track shook the unit to "settle" it in place? Then of course retightened all the main bolts. I know Woodland Mills has this in their literature. That roll back after each cut is a problem. I think your end of track is high there and no longer level. Just sayin' that is looks like it may be.
Yeah, the end of the track does need to be adjusted for level. I have not done that for a couple of months but I did notice the role back just yesterday. The vibration is due to the need for a new blade. I have not done the loosening of the bolts but the shaking goes away when I put a new blade on. As for the leveling of the log, I do normally but not with one so big. I was just happy to get it on the mill. I would need to put a tire jack under it to lift one end it was so heavy.
@@thetennesseefrugalcraftsma7383 Understandable since I don't have to be the one manhandling that big boy! lol
Hey Tennessee Frugal Craftsman, love your videos, and enjoy seeing the progress you are making. Keep it up. I do have a question. at 5:55 of this video, your HM122 seems to shake side to side? Is this something that you encounter often? I ask because I also have an HM122, I have struggled with this shaking side to side for some time now. I have tried countless things to resolve it, but have not solved this problem yet. Mine is so bad, that it actually has snapped 2 sharp blades with less than 1 hour on each blade. I mill Eastern white pine, it never used to happen, just started happening about 3 months ago. I only have about 30 hours on my machine. Just curious on your thoughts. Woodland Mills has tried to help, but nothing has worked. Thank you
Some of mine was related to the need to relevel the mill base. At times it can have to do with the sharpness of the blade. Other times it seems to be related to the height I am cutting at (the mill head is up all the way or close to it offsetting the balance a bit). This goes back to the first point, the need to level the saw base. I would try checking the level first though.
@@thetennesseefrugalcraftsma7383 Appreciate you taking the time to reply. I started using a wedge in-between deep cuts when the head is up high and noticed that made big difference for me anyways. Just thought I would share.
@@khanman1917 I will try that! Thanks for the tip.
Old dude buys a sawmill pro tip .
When it doesn't seem to want to go just shove it on threw.
I know the feeling.
Please level your logs you'll find it easier
I do for most logs but it is harder on the big ones because of the weight. That is how I blew a disk last year.