Read a bunch of the comments here but surprised no one that I saw mentioned how great and fast aluminum foil works. I am restoring a similar table right now. Rust was way worse than yours. Just sprayed on some water and took a big fist full of heavy duty foil and started rubbing. The entire top was totally rust free in less than 10 min. Even shaped it self to get down in the slots to get the rust there as well. No chemicals. NO REMOVAL OF METAL from the surface. I could not stand the idea of sanding off metal. Did the rails and any other exposed metal surface with perfect total rust removal. I just wanted to get rid of the rust. So effective, so cheap, so fast and does NOT damage the metal. Once finished, i just dried it off and sprayed with WD40. Wiped it off and done. Super simple. So straight forward and easy. No need for sanders and chemicals.
I'll give the foil a try, but I have the green scotch brite pads I was planning to use, so probably going to try both. Also, water, on a piece of cast iron..... Wd-40 does a better job (its secondary purpose, after water displacement, is penetrating into rust) breaking rust bonds and it doesn't go right back to rusting the top.
@@woodworkerroyer8497 I'm not a professional restorer by any stretch but a lover of old power tools as I hate to see them end up in the scrap yard to be recycled into things they never intended to be. I've had the pleasure (and shock) of restoring, actually rescuing, 6 older table saws to include a couple of X Series Griz machines one of which I kept for myself, Grizzly's behemoth 7 HP saw. All 6 are operating in someone's shop right now. Scotch brite pads and WD40 in my opinion are must haves and have served my projects well. I did have to resort to using a sander and 120-3000 grit sand paper due to the amount of rust and surface pitting. I found out that if you sand and bring the finish to as near of a mirror finish as the iron will allow, rust is pretty much a nonissue except if you live at or close to the beach. My grandfather told me this a long time ago but I didn't believe him until I tried it for myself years later. It's humid here in NC all the time and I put a coat of wax on the top since rust rarely happens to a well polished table top. Foil is ok to use and will work but I can only imagine the amount of time I would have spent using that method. I know others that use sanders once a year to keep their saw tops in tip top shape!
Nice job. My Delta contractors saw is 20 yrs old and the top is in pretty good shape. Living in FL and NC I was always worried about rust so I have kept a rubber tub liner over it (and my band saw table) and I believe that has saved me over the years. I keep it down with magnets. I also wax it with paste wax every once in a while. I like the Scotch brite and sander trick. Will definitely try that one.
I've had my cast iron table saw since the early 90s. I use an orbital sander with fine grit sand paper. Then I use a good car wax on the table after. The wax makes the wood glide nice and a coat just before winter keeps it from rusting. The whole process take maybe 20 minutes. Problem solved.
ok after you get the table top clean, Use some acetone and get all the oil out of the metal. Then apply spray on furniture polish (its wax). It will give your table a good glide surface and will last through a good hard days use. After using the table, A quick application of furniture polish it will protect the table top for many many months of unused storage. I have used this method for over 40 years.
Beautiful. Never heard of the fluid film before. Will check it out..does the fluid film have similar properties to wd40? I'm currently using wd40 and an 80 grit grinder pad to restore the finish on an old small machinist vice I got off of fb marketplace. It's been working out good. I soaked it for about two weeks in white vinegar and all the surface rust came off. Then I scratched with a metal brush/rinsed with water and dried it and sprayed all the pieces with wd40 and sealed them in a Ziploc bag that I vacuumed. I started grinding the wd40 coated pieces this morning the finish it produces is nice and shiny and pretty smooth. I wonder if the fluid film would be comparable or better for the same process?
Thanks for a very helpful video. Undoubtedly there are many ways to remove rust. My situation is that we had a major fire and the soot brought on the rust. I'm sure there are chemical cleaners but your methods work so that's the route I'm taking. I have to do it to the table saw, lathe bed, and band saw. I like the palm sander idea using hook and loop with scotch brite. I did order the fluid film.
I used a card scraper to remove heavy rust on a cast iron table. I was surprised at how well it works. There are UA-cam videos showing how to sharpen a card scraper.
an orbital palm sander 180 grit sand paper job is done, no need to waste your time with WD40, baking soda and all that stuff. once the table is clean of rust, wipe it down with some mineral spirit to remove any left contaminant and wipe it with paste wax to protect it from rusting again.
Exactly. I even had an old 3hp Jet cabinet saw with 25 years of neglect that I resurrected with 3 razor blades to get the bulk of the rust and then about 3 sanding disks from 80-220 grit. 3.5 hours and done. No need for all this complexity.
You're table might scratched with that grit !!! Need to use 600 sand paper otherwise you will see scratches everywhere 220 is too rough for a table saw my opinion! Anyway its better than rust !!!
i think this is for if your table saw gets to this point..... ... simply 180 grit would probably scratch your surface a little too much... I use wd 40 and 150 grit.. then 320 for finer polish... then i use johnson wax or T9 Boeshield
This is a great video. I have been sealing my pm2000 with a spray shellac and it works very well. But I think I will try the water-based poly trick next.
I recently inherited several tools from my grandfather that hadn't been taken care of very well. To remove the rust i cleaned with mineral spirits and then used CLR and some 800 grit sand paper to strip off the rust.
"I use Scotch Brite pads because Scotch Brite pads are not as abrasive as steel wool." I have got to ask, were you serious when you made that statement in the video or just speaking without thinking ? I ask, inasmuch, as steel wool pads can be purchased in many grades all the way down to # 0000 and I guarantee you that Scotch Brite is seriously more abrasive than 4/0 steel wool, or 3/0 or 2/0 or even 1/0 for that matter. If any viewers have this same problem, I would suggest that after you get the surface cleaned, that you then apply a coating of Johnsons floor wax for future protection. I would also reccomend using a product known as Evaporust to remove any rust from metal like steel, iron and cast steel, etc. it works wonders, especially if you can submerge the item in the liquid for an extended period of time.
Try your automotive stores too. Advanced Auto has Fluid film in stock. Its about the same price. Amazon is 27.99 for 3 cans which comes out to 9.33 per can. Advanced Auto is 10.87 per can. If you don't need 3 cans Advanced is the way to go.
+retrorestore Turned out really nice this time. I'm hoping the poly helps hold the shine. I ended up putting on a second coat of poly just to thicken it up.
Great video! This is exactly what I was looking for. Most of my tools are older second hand and don't come to me in the best of conditions. This method the best I've come across and the most simple. Thanks for making the video!
Great idea to use water based poly...I'm like you, using wax just doesn't last. I love baking soda, from making biscuits to cleaning auto/truck batteries and everything in between, it's hard to beat.
I really screwed up. Don't groan. I used coarse sandpaper. How can I get the metal smooth again. I guess I need to find someone who reconditions table saws. Do I have a chance to smooth it out again? Is there any posssibility?
Eugene Sanders if you didn't figure it out, just go over it with like 180/220 and keep going up in grit till it looks all perdy and shiiiny. Oh and a wax or something, I use a beeswax/almond oil mix
Yeah, no big deal, just work your way up in grit. If you used 50, I'd recommend going to 80 until all the 50 scratches are gone, then 120 until all the 80 scratches are gone, then 180 or 220. If you skip grades, it can be pretty hard to get the earlier scratches out. And I like a nice hard automotive paste wax after all that work because it won't (harmfully) transfer to work pieces and it's nicely slippery unlike the urethane, although it probably requires more frequent applications.
Dont loose time....I started with WD-40 spreaded on the table for 20 minutes remove the worst with a scraper... scothbride a little then a palm sander from 320 to 600...wax it and SELL IT if you cant keep it in good condition....lol
Don't use scotch brite. There are detergents in there that are meant to be washed off with water, which you will NOT want to use, so just use good old steel wool. Vinegar is better for everybody and cheaper, too, so use that instead of the other aerosol products. If something just won't come clean, you can cheat, if you have to. I would not use the poly, because you will eventually have wear and will have to either add more and get a build up, or use stripper, which will be neither fun nor healthy. Car wax is flexible and easy to use. You can easily remove the buildup and it is a good lubricant.
I like it but I would not hesitate in using steel wool. It's not that aggressive and will do a good job with lubrication. Steel wool with soap as sold might be a better way to go.. Just my perception...
Just use Evaporust to remove the rust. No rubbing. Then get it copper plated then Nickel electroplated. Fluid film is not a rust remover. This is a HOW NOT TO video. Never put Salt on Cast Iron. Baking soda is salt.
Wow. Just read the description. How awful that you folk have to talk safety, liability and litigation in everything you do. Has it always been that way there or did something happen in the past to make it so?
How could you let it get so bad. That brand of table saws are not cheap. But even if it was a cheap saw there is not reason for letting it get that bad. I want and need a table saw but can not afford one. It kind of pisses me off watching people let there stuff get so neglected.
Total waste of time. Use wet or dry sand paper. Start with 240 grit and work your way down to 600 grit. Uou can use water or oil with the sand paper. If using water just dry it thoroughly
Grizzly power tools are the lowest of the low...worst of the worst. Cheapest of the cheapest. Might as well throw your money away as buy a Grizzly tool. Yukkkkkk.
amzn.to/1Pv8hpR Click the link to get your fluid film.
Read a bunch of the comments here but surprised no one that I saw mentioned how great and fast aluminum foil works. I am restoring a similar table right now. Rust was way worse than yours. Just sprayed on some water and took a big fist full of heavy duty foil and started rubbing. The entire top was totally rust free in less than 10 min. Even shaped it self to get down in the slots to get the rust there as well. No chemicals. NO REMOVAL OF METAL from the surface. I could not stand the idea of sanding off metal. Did the rails and any other exposed metal surface with perfect total rust removal. I just wanted to get rid of the rust. So effective, so cheap, so fast and does NOT damage the metal. Once finished, i just dried it off and sprayed with WD40. Wiped it off and done. Super simple. So straight forward and easy. No need for sanders and chemicals.
Everyone here is wasting time and effort if they haven’t tried you aluminum foil suggestion. Wow! Thanks!
Just bought a SHOP SMITH MARK V with band saw tgat has some rust on the table. Now I know EXACTLY what I'm going to do today ! Thank you sooooo much !
I've got to try this, thanks so much for posting... My newly found '94 Craftsman needs some deep cleaning care...
I'll give the foil a try, but I have the green scotch brite pads I was planning to use, so probably going to try both.
Also, water, on a piece of cast iron.....
Wd-40 does a better job (its secondary purpose, after water displacement, is penetrating into rust) breaking rust bonds and it doesn't go right back to rusting the top.
@@woodworkerroyer8497 I'm not a professional restorer by any stretch but a lover of old power tools as I hate to see them end up in the scrap yard to be recycled into things they never intended to be. I've had the pleasure (and shock) of restoring, actually rescuing, 6 older table saws to include a couple of X Series Griz machines one of which I kept for myself, Grizzly's behemoth 7 HP saw. All 6 are operating in someone's shop right now. Scotch brite pads and WD40 in my opinion are must haves and have served my projects well. I did have to resort to using a sander and 120-3000 grit sand paper due to the amount of rust and surface pitting. I found out that if you sand and bring the finish to as near of a mirror finish as the iron will allow, rust is pretty much a nonissue except if you live at or close to the beach. My grandfather told me this a long time ago but I didn't believe him until I tried it for myself years later. It's humid here in NC all the time and I put a coat of wax on the top since rust rarely happens to a well polished table top. Foil is ok to use and will work but I can only imagine the amount of time I would have spent using that method. I know others that use sanders once a year to keep their saw tops in tip top shape!
Nice job. My Delta contractors saw is 20 yrs old and the top is in pretty good shape. Living in FL and NC I was always worried about rust so I have kept a rubber tub liner over it (and my band saw table) and I believe that has saved me over the years. I keep it down with magnets. I also wax it with paste wax every once in a while. I like the Scotch brite and sander trick. Will definitely try that one.
great tip with the valve grinding paste. tried the other stuff but the paste worked well. thanks
I've had my cast iron table saw since the early 90s. I use an orbital sander with fine grit sand paper. Then I use a good car wax on the table after. The wax makes the wood glide nice and a coat just before winter keeps it from rusting. The whole process take maybe 20 minutes. Problem solved.
I work at NAPA Auto Parts and I sell Fluid Film. Your table saw turned out well. Thanks for the good idea!
ok after you get the table top clean, Use some acetone and get all the oil out of the metal. Then apply spray on furniture polish (its wax). It will give your table a good glide surface and will last through a good hard days use. After using the table, A quick application of furniture polish it will protect the table top for many many months of unused storage. I have used this method for over 40 years.
Beautiful. Never heard of the fluid film before. Will check it out..does the fluid film have similar properties to wd40? I'm currently using wd40 and an 80 grit grinder pad to restore the finish on an old small machinist vice I got off of fb marketplace. It's been working out good. I soaked it for about two weeks in white vinegar and all the surface rust came off. Then I scratched with a metal brush/rinsed with water and dried it and sprayed all the pieces with wd40 and sealed them in a Ziploc bag that I vacuumed. I started grinding the wd40 coated pieces this morning the finish it produces is nice and shiny and pretty smooth. I wonder if the fluid film would be comparable or better for the same process?
Thanks for a very helpful video. Undoubtedly there are many ways to remove rust. My situation is that we had a major fire and the soot brought on the rust. I'm sure there are chemical cleaners but your methods work so that's the route I'm taking. I have to do it to the table saw, lathe bed, and band saw. I like the palm sander idea using hook and loop with scotch brite. I did order the fluid film.
I used a card scraper to remove heavy rust on a cast iron table. I was surprised at how well it works. There are UA-cam videos showing how to sharpen a card scraper.
good tips, I got a gallon of the fluid film and a slightly rusted top on my unisaw. Guess you know what I'll be doing tomorrow. Many thanks.
+quadlinear Make sure you seal it when you are done.
Not only the top but the bottom of my table saw top is rusty. Should I remove the rust underneath too?
WD-40, steel wool, Bar Keepers Friend + elbow grease. Works great
Took your recommendation used bar keepers friend. That stuff is awesome. Table saw and jointer top look rejuvenated.
an orbital palm sander
180 grit sand paper
job is done, no need to waste your time with WD40, baking soda and all that stuff.
once the table is clean of rust, wipe it down with some mineral spirit to remove any left contaminant and wipe it with paste wax to protect it from rusting again.
Keep your saw clean and waxed and you will save all that!
Exactly. I even had an old 3hp Jet cabinet saw with 25 years of neglect that I resurrected with 3 razor blades to get the bulk of the rust and then about 3 sanding disks from 80-220 grit. 3.5 hours and done. No need for all this complexity.
You're table might scratched with that grit !!! Need to use 600 sand paper otherwise you will see scratches everywhere 220 is too rough for a table saw my opinion! Anyway its better than rust !!!
i think this is for if your table saw gets to this point..... ... simply 180 grit would probably scratch your surface a little too much... I use wd 40 and 150 grit.. then 320 for finer polish... then i use johnson wax or T9 Boeshield
Shit maybe I'm over doing it I use 400 800 and then 1000 grit
Can you use wd-40 in place of the fluid film?
They have a WD40 Specialized for rust remover
Man you worked wonders with that saw , Thumbs up man !!
+ShawnMrFixit Lee Turned out well, but that saw really needed a cleaning.
If you polish it up from like 600grit to 3,000grit and basically turn it into a mirror finish, would that keep it from rusting quicker?
Cast iron has natural porosity so you may not be able to get down to a mirror finish. And if you do, you may find that the table is now out of flat.
I use paste wax to protect the bare metal saw table top
Is this a paid advert for Fluid Film?
Nice video, I recently bought an old craftsman table saw at an auction and I needs some clean up.
Great tips with the window scraper and valve compound. Thanks!
You could use pumice rather than baking soda. I use it for cleaning circuit boards; it's not too aggressive, but probably more than baking soda.
This is a great video. I have been sealing my pm2000 with a spray shellac and it works very well. But I think I will try the water-based poly trick next.
Michael Bulger Mi v m
How did that work out for you? Using a WATER based product to prevent rust sounds odd.
I love your intro and your name of your channel said to say that right away
I recently inherited several tools from my grandfather that hadn't been taken care of very well. To remove the rust i cleaned with mineral spirits and then used CLR and some 800 grit sand paper to strip off the rust.
800 grit? Damn! I thought printer paper was about 600...
Thanks for the great video!
Wd-40, liquid wrench, or whatever penetrating oil of your choice but not fluid film.
And polyurethane???? Umm no, never....carnauba wax and buff.
I must admit at first glance that poor grizzly brought a tear to my eye. lol but great job on getting her back to her former glory!!!
Looks like I have the same saw which used as a junk table more than a saw. Now I going to try some of these tips to restore it.
I had mine covered for just a, week and that's all it took to get rusty. Covering it traps moisture
Totally. Never coat mild steel with urethane.
"I use Scotch Brite pads because Scotch Brite pads are not as abrasive as steel wool."
I have got to ask, were you serious when you made that statement in the video or just speaking without thinking ? I ask, inasmuch, as steel wool pads can be purchased in many grades all the way down to # 0000 and I guarantee you that Scotch Brite is seriously more abrasive than 4/0 steel wool, or 3/0 or 2/0 or even 1/0 for that matter.
If any viewers have this same problem, I would suggest that after you get the surface cleaned, that you then apply a coating of Johnsons floor wax for future protection. I would also reccomend using a product known as Evaporust to remove any rust from metal like steel, iron and cast steel, etc. it works wonders, especially if you can submerge the item in the liquid for an extended period of time.
i use fluid flim all the time i use it on my snow blower impeller - mower deck and table saw thanks for the video
What if there is a gash in the table top from dropping something sharp and heavy on it? How would you keep the gash from catching on the wood?
Consider Bond-O, like an auto body repair.
buy a new top or better than the one you have
I use paste wax and crocus cloth. This looked good too though. Nice job
Try your automotive stores too. Advanced Auto has Fluid film in stock. Its about the same price. Amazon is 27.99 for 3 cans which comes out to 9.33 per can. Advanced Auto is 10.87 per can. If you don't need 3 cans Advanced is the way to go.
Thumbs up bud, she cleaned up a treat.
+retrorestore Turned out really nice this time. I'm hoping the poly helps hold the shine. I ended up putting on a second coat of poly just to thicken it up.
I use WD40 for lube and varying grades of wet-dry sandpaper. 600 grit will give a mirror finish. Plenty of past wax.
i use regular white distilled vinegar..works like a charm and really cheap!!
What about parts cleaner?
Great video! This is exactly what I was looking for. Most of my tools are older second hand and don't come to me in the best of conditions. This method the best I've come across and the most simple. Thanks for making the video!
Nice work. Brought it back to near new!
+BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose Thanks for watching and commenting.
hmm pretty basic - i was hoping for something to suggest how to keep it level - or prevent low spots from repeated sanding etc
excellent job!
got to clean up Pa's old Beaver 3200 he left me
he wouldn't be too happy if he seen it right now
thx for the hot tips Dbl Wd
Oh I am definitely stealing the scotch bright on the palm sander trick!
Great idea to use water based poly...I'm like you, using wax just doesn't last. I love baking soda, from making biscuits to cleaning auto/truck batteries and everything in between, it's hard to beat.
+A LeBlanc Bakeing soda is great I really like it for thickening up liquid glues.
Saw got rusty due to water. Putting WATER based poly on there sounds like a very bad idea.
I really screwed up. Don't groan. I used coarse sandpaper. How can I get the metal smooth again. I guess I need to find someone who reconditions table saws. Do I have a chance to smooth it out again? Is there any posssibility?
Eugene Sanders if you didn't figure it out, just go over it with like 180/220 and keep going up in grit till it looks all perdy and shiiiny. Oh and a wax or something, I use a beeswax/almond oil mix
Yeah, no big deal, just work your way up in grit. If you used 50, I'd recommend going to 80 until all the 50 scratches are gone, then 120 until all the 80 scratches are gone, then 180 or 220. If you skip grades, it can be pretty hard to get the earlier scratches out. And I like a nice hard automotive paste wax after all that work because it won't (harmfully) transfer to work pieces and it's nicely slippery unlike the urethane, although it probably requires more frequent applications.
Dont loose time....I started with WD-40 spreaded on the table for 20 minutes remove the worst with a scraper... scothbride a little then a palm sander from 320 to 600...wax it and SELL IT if you cant keep it in good condition....lol
The best finish for a Metal table top is "Silber Gleit" ... you'll find it on Amazon Germany ... your table top never feels better ...
Nice job, thanks.
thanks for the tip
Nice improvement.....
ok so I have watched a lot of these videos, I simply use Dry Lube on the blades and cast-iron surfaces
very cool
easy and effective refurb!!
Wow... Good work!
+Donna M. Schmid Thanks
Don't use scotch brite. There are detergents in there that are meant to be washed off with water, which you will NOT want to use, so just use good old steel wool. Vinegar is better for everybody and cheaper, too, so use that instead of the other aerosol products. If something just won't come clean, you can cheat, if you have to. I would not use the poly, because you will eventually have wear and will have to either add more and get a build up, or use stripper, which will be neither fun nor healthy. Car wax is flexible and easy to use. You can easily remove the buildup and it is a good lubricant.
You should remove the insert to avoid damaging it.
Go in circular motions to prevent low spots. ;-)
Brake cleaner worked for me..
Yepperrrz! Thanx Doublewide6
Thanks for sharing
+rtzapper No problem.
Naval jelly will remove rust from anything.
That is pretty close to a fine sand paper
I like it but I would not hesitate in using steel wool. It's not that aggressive and will do a good job with lubrication. Steel wool with soap as sold might be a better way to go.. Just my perception...
+Curiosity I have used steel wool in the past it will work. It is just a little rougher with the power sander.
WD 40 or pb blaster
Zachary Maneja why not use a light coating of wax after wd40 ?
Mike Cunningham Isi
Thats not neglect my friend. Thats plain abuse! A little maintenance goes a long way. I would be ashamed if my saw top looked like that.
I don’t think you could have made that any harder fine sandpaper and a coat of wax and your done
use any chemical as your last option. Try all organic non-toxic solutions first such as water and aluminum foil.
Shouldn't use the top of your saw for a workbench. Wear gloves, too.
Just use Evaporust to remove the rust. No rubbing. Then get it copper plated then Nickel electroplated.
Fluid film is not a rust remover. This is a HOW NOT TO video.
Never put Salt on Cast Iron. Baking soda is salt.
Why water based? What about oil based?
IceTurf why not rub a wax block over the surface? each month.
because I'm busy - and I don't want to have to have another thing to remember
Wax could clog wood pores so your piece may not finish evenly FWIW
The water based poly dries faster (so less dust, unless your shop is much cleaner than mine).
Wow. Just read the description.
How awful that you folk have to talk safety, liability and litigation in everything you do.
Has it always been that way there or did something happen in the past to make it so?
How could you let it get so bad. That brand of table saws are not cheap. But even if it was a cheap saw there is not reason for letting it get that bad. I want and need a table saw but can not afford one. It kind of pisses me off watching people let there stuff get so neglected.
All of my woodworks I am making with woodprix. Google and try it.
Total waste of time. Use wet or dry sand paper. Start with 240 grit and work your way down to 600 grit. Uou can use water or oil with the sand paper. If using water just dry it thoroughly
is this for real.. are you russian?
Some times its hard to think
//trump
Grizzly power tools are the lowest of the low...worst of the worst. Cheapest of the cheapest. Might as well throw your money away as buy a Grizzly tool. Yukkkkkk.