The “staining” is actually microscopic rust pitting. The very last thing you want to do is sanding to attempt to remove it. Sanding will remove material from the flatness of the surface and make things worse. That last bit of staining will cause no harm except for the cosmetic appearance.
I use rubbing compoundb on new steel to smooth it and remove stains, using a disc polish pad. For heavy stains Wet sand paper 180 or 220 wet a 8:10 nd dry with mineral spirits then 400 then 800 then 1000 then 1500. Rub down with concrete rust remover . .. The reust remover works on other parts befor sanding too. For really bad areas use phosphoric acid, "Ospho, or Naval jelly. The fine w&d paper removes just tiny amounts, so no distortions worth concern.
Chef here. We clean the hot plates , and to get the surface looking like new, use some lemon juice. The acid will brighten up the surface almost instantly, then clean off and oil.
I had my table saw in a storage unit for ~7 years, when I moved and had a shop again, I pulled it out and it was caked in rust. The place I was storing it had a rodent issue, most of the stuff I had there had to be thrown out. I used WD40 and a maroon pad, then I used Naval jelly. The naval jelly pulled all of the rust out of the pits.
"NAVY GELLY" WORS!!! IF YOU BRUSH IT ON WITH A THROW AWAY CHEAP BRUSH...LET IT SIT TILL IT BUBBLES AND DARKENS.... RINS IT OFF OR WIPE IT OFF....RECOMEND PRESURED WATER HOSE KNOZEL....THEN LIGHT SAND
Someone mentioned Evaporust. I would have suggested rags wet down with that and periodic checking and wiping. A couple other options white or apple cider vinegar. Same process with wet rags. Don’t let them dry out. Even a plastic bag over them. That could have gotten rid of much of the orange surface rust and areas in the miter gauge slots and edges. Also a wire cup wheel or wire wheel possibly on a body grinder. Just watch & cover your eyes. Then progressive wet/ dry sandpaper working your way up.
Lucky it took me over 9 min to figure out how to get to the comments on my phone (I usually watch UA-cam on my desktop or laptop) so as much as I can’t wait to see the next video I will add you to My list of people that I will attempt to send some good vibes as a thank you for sharing your creativity and wit. And HOLY WOW THATS AMAZING!!!!
it is like getting into an accident out of the dealership in a brand new Ferrari, but i learnt one thing, never have any emotional ties to stuff that can be bought and sold, at the end of the day it is a tool that makes you money not a one in a billion museum artifact.
Surprised you never tried Boeshield RustFree Rust and Stain Remover. I used to keep my tools in a pole shed with indoor rain from frost thawing cycles and humidity from summer. Got tired of cleaning rust off all of my grizzly and sawstop equipment steady but that boeshield really made it easier. Get some ceramic automotive protection for best barrier and slippery surfaces.
We moved a few weeks ago. I think the saw will be fine. I need to get 220 in my shop to test it. Swimming n boxes currently and hope to have a shop cab build video soon. Then I can tackle the table saw
Look up stumpy nubbs video on what to do about rust like this. Essentially sand /buff it clean with naptha and finish with protective layer of paste wax. It works because i was given a jet tablesaw that had a rusted top i followed the steps and it looks brand new! Love your content keep it up and hope this helps get your prized saw out of medical leave and back to use!
As it turns out, I bought almost the same SawStop used recently (5 hp 220v) but didn’t have room in my shop for it since I’m currently converting my garage into a shop. I carefully wrapped up the SawStop with tarps, tied it down and, sadly, had to leave it outside on a pallet. The winds went wild and somehow blew the tarp off in a rainstorm and it rusted pretty quickly. I still don’t have room to work on it so I’ll have to do so when the shop is finished. Looks like I’ll be going through a similar process on mine before too long. I hope it comes out half as nice as yours!
Oh wow! Looking forward to seeing what you can do. I did find the sawstop sells the tops so you can replace them….for $800!!! Also, your hammer reinvented thumbnail is one of my fav on UA-cam. Brilliant.
@@wittworks Glad to know I can by a new top if I need to. Mine is even more rusted than yours, I really don't know if I can save it but I'll definitely try.
I bought a jet tablesaw off market place and the cast iron looked like that. I used sandpaper on my random orbital sander. started at 80 and worked my way all the way up to 400. the top is nice and smooth and no issues with it.
Had this happen before and Believe it or not I used 120 sandpaper( May want to wear a mask) but it worked perfect. Then I cleaned it and coated with paste wax.
Well the best way for this . Me been a spray painter and worked on metal what you should do is sand with a sander p 100 p 180 p240 then with a scotch brite pad and a glove you get a liquid solution called dioxidene its phosgoric acid you go over it thoroughly and live it for 10 minute and repeat the procedure with the dioxidene. Then you neutralise it with in a bucked with water and methylated spirit you wipe on then quickly wipe off and the watch it shine but this type of method is for a experience person
I've restored many old (decades) cast iron tables ... table saw, jointer, horizontal saw, band saws, etc .... and simply start with 80 grit pads. Seems to work fine for me and not much you can't get out. So, for whatever that's worth. Good luck!
buy a bottle of Loctite naval jelly,it's a rust remover. then you'll probably need to use some fine carbide wet/dry paper to polish it to near-normal. Ace Hdwr has it for $9 for a 16 ox bottle. it works great on rust.
5 days ago I discovered I had a water leak that was dripping onto my jointer that I had just purchased. It was not a new jointer but I had been saving and searching for a jointer for a few years now. I was devastated when I found the cast iron bright orange with rust. After watching this video I do have some hope now. Thanks for the quick tutorial and links.
If you can salvage the saw, I say get some kind of design applied to the surface of the table. Like covering a scar with a tattoo kind of thing. Just a thought. maybe you can resurface, do some kind of tool black coating and then re-coat it and once you wax the top with some paste wax to get the friction back down, etc....
I had the problem. I bought a Delta saw that had been sitting outside for about a month and the surface looked just like yours. I got a Strip and Clean disk from HF and went to work with my angle grinder and WD40. After about an hours work I had a new shine on the top and put a coat of paste wax on it. Still looks brand new to this day.
I put Carbon Method on my Saw Stop when I bought it last June. I swear by that stuff. I live in hot and humid southeastern Alabama and my TS is still rust free. Apply it properly per the manufacturer’s instructions and it’ll serve you well.
I'm in to the video about eight minutes, so please forgive me if you tried this eventually. How about using wet sandpaper for metal? Start with a four hundred grit and increase from there. It works on older model cars, but they're not made out of cast iron which is basically pot metal, so I don't know if I'm on to something, or not. I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.
This is beyond difficult to see, I feel your pain for sure. I was transitioning to my shop built into my existing garage and had moved some equipment over to it. However, work was busy, and it took time before i could get back to the shop build. and we got several days of fog, and it got my stuff hard.
Sorry to see this happen to you. I had this happen to my first table saw. Once I got it cleaned I ended up finishing it with Cerakote. 5 years of sweat and glue later and not single spec of rust. So now I Cerakote all my tools before I ever setup them up. Worth every penny.
@@bobd5119 The air dry series. I think it was the C-series line. It is not as durable as the bake on finishes, but even where it scratches off it still did not rust. Whatever additive for corrosion protection they put in it is top notch. It is also very slick. I only waxed my saw maybe once a year.
Harbor freight has a surface conditioning tool that would bring your surface back to new. It would also help to grab a gallon of evaporust while youre there. Lay old towels on the saw top, soak them with evaporust and keep it wet for atleast 24 hours. Between those two, you'll be good as new.
I had excellent results with wd40, 400 grit sandpaper on the ros, and a roll of paper towels to wipe the stained liquid as I removed it. I let the wd40 sit for about 15 minutes before use. Saw top came out looking like new.
So sorry, I had a similar issue and found vinegar and sandpaper (like you) took it back to original finish. I had water damage and one day walked into my shop (after some time off) and spotted a squirrel using my TS as a plate/cutting board for black walnuts! Side note I hope you pulled off your wings... you might find a bit of water found its way there.
I feel your pain... my 3 week old f150 hybrid was rear-ended by a distracted driver (she was going about 40 mph faster than I when she hit me)... fortunately nobody was hurt, but my truck is still at the shop over a month later, and they still haven't been able to start the repairs... there is a good chance that the frame will need to be replaced... I hope I will get it back before this winter.
I have a similar (ongoing) issue with my Sawstop in that my shop didn't have heat and is drafty as a barn (which is why we call it "the barn"). It's first year in residence I put a tarp over the saw hoping condensation wouldn't get to it but by spring it was a mess. I resurfaced it with a combination of PB Blaster an array of sandpaper grits, brown pads, and steel wool which got most of the rust out. Last fall I put a small space heater and two fans to circulate the air. I also got a magnetic cover for the table and monitored the temps with a remote thermometer and kept the barn just above freezing. It was costly in heating bills but it (mostly) worked and I had just a couple of small oxidation spots on the table this last spring. I am hoping to mostly finish the barn by end of next summer which include insulation and heating so I don't have to go through a spring resurfacing of the saw every year. I've been using paste wax and Boeshield to coat the table but am intrigued by the cabon coat.
I have a waterfront home in North Carolina. Rust is a constant battle on all my tools. With an air conditioned garage condensation forms immediately when ever I open the door. Wax helps very little and leaving WD40 on the surfaces makes it worse. I now keep all tools covered with ether a custom cover or just a towel laid over. CorrosionX works best but 30 weight works well. Before using I have to degrease and wax. Hand tools have to be kept in drawers or cabinets.
I can't believe you waisted your time, when your insurance would have paid for it. And you would have had the perfect opportunity to get a Delta, Powermatic or an old Craftsman. Our shop bought two Sawstop's and would throw them in the garbage if we could.
You should have opened it up and cleaned the adjustment gears and mechanism. You can always take the table tops off and take them to the local machine shop. They should be able to mill the top true and remove any rust or stains with it.
Take the top to a machine shop and have them grind or surface plane it flat...How do I know? I did it to a Unisaw top made in 1955 ..........have them take off just enough to clean the surface
Sand paper or emery paper , I've had that problem when I left my table saw down in my damp basement and it got very surface rusted and the sand paper on an orbital sander worked perfect, just start out with 120 and work your way up
I feel your pain, it has happened to me too, just not on a brand new saw but in the end it is not mirror it is tool and it will still do the job it was intended to do.
I don't have a SawStop but I had a similar disaster when my shop roof leaked directly over my saw. I did the same as you but haven't tried the carbon coat yet, that looks much better!
I used fine beach sand and light motor oil (maybe try WD-40) to clean my saw tabletop. Lightly oil the top and spread oil evenly and sprinkle on the sand. I then took a piece of Low Carbon steel, about 6" square by 3/8" or 1/2", and scoured the saw table in a figure eight motion, rotating the piece of steel by 90 degrees each few strokes. Overlap the table edge with the lapping plate to keep table flat and not make i the tabletop concave. Works great. Just a thought. Try using the machined bottom of a Cast Iron or Aluminum Frying Pan. Reply
Of course it is salvageable. Yes, cast iron rusts but it does not delaminate like steel. My old Delta equipment is many decades old that has been impacted by rust and pitting but it does not impact the performance in any way. You may want to consider a cold bluing solution for better protection from flash rust? Paste wax helps but beware of contamination of your wood. Good luck
My Unisaw got this way after a rainstorm as I had the garage door open, lucky my router table was phenolic so after sanding it like this I waxed it, no issues since, of course a bit less complicated electronics too
I will say, I didn't know of that company offered kit, but did something very similar with WD-40 and maroon scotch bright pads on my first table saw. I never got it all the way to a bright "new" cast iron color, but it did come back to an even darker grey, and worked fine for years. For the worst areas, I used a gasket scraper that uses a spring steel card as a scraping edge. This got some rust off, as well as the paint stains that were left by some prior owner using it as a painting bench. I did finish mine with BoeShield T-9 as a protective layer afterward. All that said, great work there, and best wishes with your shop recovery.
Had a similar issue with a 3-week-old Rikon bandsaw. Only 24 hours of a roof leek onto the table bed in a partially temp controlled environment caused orange rust. I was horrified and had to jump into action! WD40 and scotch pads did most of the work. Top coated with good ol’ paste wax. Is it smooth and flush? Yes. Does it have a unique staining pattern? Most definitely! (Not as cool as yours though) The bandsaw and table are in fine shape. It’s the stupid roof I’ve got to take care of! The workshop is joy. Until you have to use your skills to fix the actual workshop! An annoying test of patience. Which BTW is the most valuable lesson to learn and master in woodworking. IMO. Patience. Walk away and think. Patience. Work the problem. Patience. Fix.
@Wittworks: Have you tried ""Bar Keepers Friend" ?! It has been around forever. They have several different formulations, but the one that had best all-around performance for me, was the old-fashioned powder form. My little needy project was a 55 year old Bridgeport Milling machine that had not been treated well (high-milage) and had been stored even poorer. My project was not as brilliant orange as yours but was deeper in many places. "Bar Keepers Friend" brought my surfaces back pretty respectable. Near shiny matte finish. Certainly, far better than the oils you were using at the beginning of the video. You will need to rinse thoroughly and then coat with turtle wax or similar for long term protection. I'll go back now and finish the rest of your video.
I cover everything with the tool covers. I have a cold garage and large temperature swings...no rush problems. In your case, the water would have run off.
Oh I feel this pain. I left pressure treated five-quarter deck boards laying across my table saw for about a month while I traveled, and, where they were in contact, same result. I've got the saw back to working order, but need to put some more time in to it.
Could you have used commercial grade vinegar to wash the rust before you conditioned it. Then use and oscillating sander with a 400 metal pad. Just a suggestion. Thanks
Wow, I understand your pain. A few years ago, I laid pressure treated wood on the saw only for a few hours. Well, two days later, I put the wood where I should have put it if I wasn't in a hurry. I may try your fix. A lesson learned.
in my experience, wd40 is not a rust dissolver. it inhibits rust, and can get between existing rust and metal, helping to remove it, but there's no chemical reaction there. I've had great results with naval jelly; it chemically reacts with rust, and will leave a temporary barrier layer on the metal.
My condolences! Acquired an old Craftsman table saw a few years ago, in terrible shape. Rust, warped extensions, no fence, no miter gauge, electrical problems. Turned out the electrical was the easy part. Found an original miter gauge that fits perrrrfectly! Eventually got a Shopfox fence. Sanded, and sanded, and.... sanded. Scrubbed, ...... Got it looking decent. Runs well. Cuts well. Someone recommended covering it with a moving blanket. Rusted up again, and now needs some more TLC. Well, I guess I chalk that one up to experience, and move on. Hang in there! And again, you have my full and complete sympathy. Just remember, the sun WILL come up tomorrow. And I hate to mention this, but remember that, contrary to common belief, lightning DOES strike twice. Forewarned is forearmed!
I don't know you very well but from the newer videos I've seen (after this one) you seem to be a great human and father (as well as an talented and entertaining woodworker). I think I'm a pretty good judge of character. Love your video's and your honesty and I'm glad you got the saw looking as good as it does. I don't comment on videos unless I mean it and want to help out the creator. Great work, looking forward to your future videos. ( heart emoji) -Aiden V.
I can help you maximize your track saw or trim router set-up 👉 wittworks.shop
The “staining” is actually microscopic rust pitting. The very last thing you want to do is sanding to attempt to remove it. Sanding will remove material from the flatness of the surface and make things worse. That last bit of staining will cause no harm except for the cosmetic appearance.
Bingo! Don't turn it into a potato chip for the sake of some ideal of aesthetics.
for those high spots 5:31 you might try iron spot/rust cleaner/rim cleaner from car washing shops
Carbon method pays well.
You work for them? How's company culture?
Your poor Festool sander 😂
Yeah man! It was orange when all said and done.
I use rubbing compoundb on new steel to smooth it and remove stains, using a disc polish pad. For heavy stains Wet sand paper 180 or 220 wet a 8:10 nd dry with mineral spirits then 400 then 800 then 1000 then 1500. Rub down with concrete rust remover . ..
The reust remover works on other parts befor sanding too.
For really bad areas use phosphoric acid, "Ospho, or Naval jelly.
The fine w&d paper removes just tiny amounts, so no distortions worth concern.
Chef here. We clean the hot plates , and to get the surface looking like new, use some lemon juice. The acid will brighten up the surface almost instantly, then clean off and oil.
oh wow.
@@wittworks vinegar works too.
I would do a cold blue on it and never worry about the appearance again...
I use t-9 on all my machines which are in a damp humid basement. And have not had one rust issue so far. Table saw jointer drill press etc.
T9 has not worked well at all for me (middle Tennessee).
I had my table saw in a storage unit for ~7 years, when I moved and had a shop again, I pulled it out and it was caked in rust. The place I was storing it had a rodent issue, most of the stuff I had there had to be thrown out. I used WD40 and a maroon pad, then I used Naval jelly. The naval jelly pulled all of the rust out of the pits.
You should try Hope’s Perfect Sink to remove the rust and yellowing.
Wow! What an improvement
"NAVY GELLY" WORS!!! IF YOU BRUSH IT ON WITH A THROW AWAY CHEAP BRUSH...LET IT SIT TILL IT BUBBLES AND DARKENS.... RINS IT OFF OR WIPE IT OFF....RECOMEND PRESURED WATER HOSE KNOZEL....THEN LIGHT SAND
PROBABLY A 20-30 MIN TO HOSE OFF TO RESURFACING PROSES GOOD LUCK
Someone mentioned Evaporust. I would have suggested rags wet down with that and periodic checking and wiping. A couple other options white or apple cider vinegar. Same process with wet rags. Don’t let them dry out. Even a plastic bag over them. That could have gotten rid of much of the orange surface rust and areas in the miter gauge slots and edges. Also a wire cup wheel or wire wheel possibly on a body grinder. Just watch & cover your eyes. Then progressive wet/ dry sandpaper working your way up.
Lucky it took me over 9 min to figure out how to get to the comments on my phone (I usually watch UA-cam on my desktop or laptop) so as much as I can’t wait to see the next video I will add you to
My list of people that I will attempt to send some good vibes as a thank you for sharing your creativity and wit.
And HOLY WOW THATS AMAZING!!!!
for rust use regular vinegar will work really well too
I just got my saw. I feel ya!
Vinegar cleans rust very well
Naval Jelly might work well for this
it is like getting into an accident out of the dealership in a brand new Ferrari, but i learnt one thing, never have any emotional ties to stuff that can be bought and sold, at the end of the day it is a tool that makes you money not a one in a billion museum artifact.
very true!
Plain white vinegar removes rust fairly well. Can be used in the first steps to remove the bulk of rust then dry and oil after
Surprised you never tried Boeshield RustFree Rust and Stain Remover. I used to keep my tools in a pole shed with indoor rain from frost thawing cycles and humidity from summer. Got tired of cleaning rust off all of my grizzly and sawstop equipment steady but that boeshield really made it easier. Get some ceramic automotive protection for best barrier and slippery surfaces.
Hey Drew-- what's the status on the saw now?
When is the house move happening?
We moved a few weeks ago. I think the saw will be fine. I need to get 220 in my shop to test it. Swimming n boxes currently and hope to have a shop cab build video soon. Then I can tackle the table saw
Not gonna lie, that sawstop looks badass now! They should partner with you to sell the Witt works custom
Hahah. That would be cool. I might put a bluing agent on it
Ya I was thinking he could find a guy to sell it to as the ONLY Damascus Steel table saw ;)
Look up stumpy nubbs video on what to do about rust like this. Essentially sand /buff it clean with naptha and finish with protective layer of paste wax. It works because i was given a jet tablesaw that had a rusted top i followed the steps and it looks brand new! Love your content keep it up and hope this helps get your prized saw out of medical leave and back to use!
As it turns out, I bought almost the same SawStop used recently (5 hp 220v) but didn’t have room in my shop for it since I’m currently converting my garage into a shop. I carefully wrapped up the SawStop with tarps, tied it down and, sadly, had to leave it outside on a pallet.
The winds went wild and somehow blew the tarp off in a rainstorm and it rusted pretty quickly. I still don’t have room to work on it so I’ll have to do so when the shop is finished. Looks like I’ll be going through a similar process on mine before too long. I hope it comes out half as nice as yours!
Oh wow! Looking forward to seeing what you can do. I did find the sawstop sells the tops so you can replace them….for $800!!!
Also, your hammer reinvented thumbnail is one of my fav on UA-cam. Brilliant.
@@wittworks Nice! I’ll see how well I’m able to clean it up but it may come to that. Thanks for the video!
@@wittworks Glad to know I can by a new top if I need to. Mine is even more rusted than yours, I really don't know if I can save it but I'll definitely try.
IF you have a local machine shop, find one with a Blanchard Grinder all done
I bought a jet tablesaw off market place and the cast iron looked like that. I used sandpaper on my random orbital sander. started at 80 and worked my way all the way up to 400. the top is nice and smooth and no issues with it.
Had this happen before and Believe it or not I used 120 sandpaper( May want to wear a mask) but it worked perfect. Then I cleaned it and coated with paste wax.
What happened to the video that descibed how the damage occurred?
Did you consider taking the table tops to a local machine shop and have them remilled?
I would have been shattered also. YOU ARE NOT ALONE!
Did you get any insurance compensation? Did you mention that and I missed it?
Well the best way for this . Me been a spray painter and worked on metal what you should do is sand with a sander p 100 p 180 p240 then with a scotch brite pad and a glove you get a liquid solution called dioxidene its phosgoric acid you go over it thoroughly and live it for 10 minute and repeat the procedure with the dioxidene. Then you neutralise it with in a bucked with water and methylated spirit you wipe on then quickly wipe off and the watch it shine but this type of method is for a experience person
I've restored many old (decades) cast iron tables ... table saw, jointer, horizontal saw, band saws, etc .... and simply start with 80 grit pads. Seems to work fine for me and not much you can't get out. So, for whatever that's worth. Good luck!
I always keep my table saw and jointer covered with clear vinyl covers to keep the tops from rusting in the Hawaii salt air.
That's a good idea!
buy a bottle of Loctite naval jelly,it's a rust remover. then you'll probably need to use some fine carbide wet/dry paper to polish it to near-normal. Ace Hdwr has it for $9 for a 16 ox bottle. it works great on rust.
You did a great job
I bought my delta unisaw used in this condition and it’s been a champ ever since I cleaned it up.
5 days ago I discovered I had a water leak that was dripping onto my jointer that I had just purchased. It was not a new jointer but I had been saving and searching for a jointer for a few years now. I was devastated when I found the cast iron bright orange with rust. After watching this video I do have some hope now. Thanks for the quick tutorial and links.
Evaporust is your friend. you may have to scrape it to remove the stains.
Mine was on the back porch after a project Covered up but a snowstorm came in Blew the tarp off then blew snow all over it before I could clear it off
If you can salvage the saw, I say get some kind of design applied to the surface of the table. Like covering a scar with a tattoo kind of thing. Just a thought. maybe you can resurface, do some kind of tool black coating and then re-coat it and once you wax the top with some paste wax to get the friction back down, etc....
I had the problem. I bought a Delta saw that had been sitting outside for about a month and the surface looked just like yours. I got a Strip and Clean disk from HF and went to work with my angle grinder and WD40. After about an hours work I had a new shine on the top and put a coat of paste wax on it. Still looks brand new to this day.
That’s great! I’ll look into the disk!
I put Carbon Method on my Saw Stop when I bought it last June. I swear by that stuff. I live in hot and humid southeastern Alabama and my TS is still rust free. Apply it properly per the manufacturer’s instructions and it’ll serve you well.
I'm in to the video about eight minutes, so please forgive me if you tried this eventually. How about using wet sandpaper for metal? Start with a four hundred grit and increase from there. It works on older model cars, but they're not made out of cast iron which is basically pot metal, so I don't know if I'm on to something, or not.
I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.
It hurts to watch this. I'm so sorry you had to go through this.
This is beyond difficult to see, I feel your pain for sure. I was transitioning to my shop built into my existing garage and had moved some equipment over to it. However, work was busy, and it took time before i could get back to the shop build. and we got several days of fog, and it got my stuff hard.
Sorry to see this happen to you. I had this happen to my first table saw. Once I got it cleaned I ended up finishing it with Cerakote. 5 years of sweat and glue later and not single spec of rust. So now I Cerakote all my tools before I ever setup them up. Worth every penny.
Which Cerakote version do you use?
@@bobd5119 The air dry series. I think it was the C-series line. It is not as durable as the bake on finishes, but even where it scratches off it still did not rust. Whatever additive for corrosion protection they put in it is top notch. It is also very slick. I only waxed my saw maybe once a year.
I use wipe on polyurethane on my table saw. It’s cheap, protects well and is easy to reapply every couple of years.
I've always used automotive rubbing compound on a Scotch-Brite pad to remove rust.
Harbor freight has a surface conditioning tool that would bring your surface back to new. It would also help to grab a gallon of evaporust while youre there. Lay old towels on the saw top, soak them with evaporust and keep it wet for atleast 24 hours. Between those two, you'll be good as new.
Evaporust soaked cloth and allow to sit over night with a plastic sheet to prevent it drying out
Deep creep and steel wool works to remove rust from cast iron.
I had excellent results with wd40, 400 grit sandpaper on the ros, and a roll of paper towels to wipe the stained liquid as I removed it. I let the wd40 sit for about 15 minutes before use. Saw top came out looking like new.
Choking on rusty oranges… 😂 happy it can be restored!
So sorry, I had a similar issue and found vinegar and sandpaper (like you) took it back to original finish. I had water damage and one day walked into my shop (after some time off) and spotted a squirrel using my TS as a plate/cutting board for black walnuts! Side note I hope you pulled off your wings... you might find a bit of water found its way there.
I've had good results with boeshield rust free. Then coating with boeshield T-9 as a protector/lubricant
i think it actually looked cool with staining! Id buy it off you!
Dude, Evaporust is a lifesaver. Gotta try it.
My Craftsman contractor saw used to get leaked on constantly, WD-40, steel wool, and elbow grease usually brought it back. The table worked fine.
Well done man! Almos invisible
I feel your pain... my 3 week old f150 hybrid was rear-ended by a distracted driver (she was going about 40 mph faster than I when she hit me)... fortunately nobody was hurt, but my truck is still at the shop over a month later, and they still haven't been able to start the repairs... there is a good chance that the frame will need to be replaced... I hope I will get it back before this winter.
Oh wow. That’s the worst. Glad you’re ok.
I have a similar (ongoing) issue with my Sawstop in that my shop didn't have heat and is drafty as a barn (which is why we call it "the barn"). It's first year in residence I put a tarp over the saw hoping condensation wouldn't get to it but by spring it was a mess. I resurfaced it with a combination of PB Blaster an array of sandpaper grits, brown pads, and steel wool which got most of the rust out. Last fall I put a small space heater and two fans to circulate the air. I also got a magnetic cover for the table and monitored the temps with a remote thermometer and kept the barn just above freezing. It was costly in heating bills but it (mostly) worked and I had just a couple of small oxidation spots on the table this last spring. I am hoping to mostly finish the barn by end of next summer which include insulation and heating so I don't have to go through a spring resurfacing of the saw every year. I've been using paste wax and Boeshield to coat the table but am intrigued by the cabon coat.
I have a waterfront home in North Carolina. Rust is a constant battle on all my tools. With an air conditioned garage condensation forms immediately when ever I open the door. Wax helps very little and leaving WD40 on the surfaces makes it worse. I now keep all tools covered with ether a custom cover or just a towel laid over. CorrosionX works best but 30 weight works well. Before using I have to degrease and wax. Hand tools have to be kept in drawers or cabinets.
How long did it take for the saw to get so rusted?
He was out of town for a few days, that is what he came home to.
I would cry... it hurts just to watch. All the best.
I can't believe you waisted your time, when your insurance would have paid for it. And you would have had the perfect opportunity to get a Delta, Powermatic or an old Craftsman. Our shop bought two Sawstop's and would throw them in the garbage if we could.
Sorry that happened Drew. How did you get into the miter slots to clean those out?
thank you. I used small pieces of maroon pad by hand
You should have opened it up and cleaned the adjustment gears and mechanism. You can always take the table tops off and take them to the local machine shop. They should be able to mill the top true and remove any rust or stains with it.
Try boesheild t-9, I got a drill press abused and soaked in a garage from 1960 to shine
Take the top to a machine shop and have them grind or surface plane it flat...How do I know? I did it to a Unisaw top made in 1955 ..........have them take off just enough to clean the surface
Just use Evaporust to remove the rust. No rubbing. Then get it copper plated then Nickel electroplated.
Sand paper or emery paper , I've had that problem when I left my table saw down in my damp basement and it got very surface rusted and the sand paper on an orbital sander worked perfect, just start out with 120 and work your way up
it's a shame you couldn't restore your saw. oh well... that's why you have home owners insurance, right?
Bar Keepers Friend, even works on difficult rust stains in clothing.
I feel your pain, it has happened to me too, just not on a brand new saw but in the end it is not mirror it is tool and it will still do the job it was intended to do.
what does sanding wet rust do to the inneards of the sander?
Good save.... I didnt see a follow up - did it end up working after you dried it out?
I don't have a SawStop but I had a similar disaster when my shop roof leaked directly over my saw. I did the same as you but haven't tried the carbon coat yet, that looks much better!
Why not use Evaporust or a vinegar/water mix?
I used fine beach sand and light motor oil (maybe try WD-40) to clean my saw tabletop. Lightly oil the top and spread oil evenly and sprinkle on the sand. I then took a piece of Low Carbon steel, about 6" square by 3/8" or 1/2", and scoured the saw table in a figure eight motion, rotating the piece of steel by 90 degrees each few strokes. Overlap the table edge with the lapping plate to keep table flat and not make i the tabletop concave. Works great. Just a thought. Try using the machined bottom of a Cast Iron or Aluminum Frying Pan.
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Of course it is salvageable. Yes, cast iron rusts but it does not delaminate like steel. My old Delta equipment is many decades old that has been impacted by rust and pitting but it does not impact the performance in any way. You may want to consider a cold bluing solution for better protection from flash rust? Paste wax helps but beware of contamination of your wood. Good luck
I would try navel jell it removes rust
That turned out pretty good,👍 starting with 220 or 340 might have been easier, then 400 wet/dry, 600, work up into the triple 000's then scotchbrite.
My Unisaw got this way after a rainstorm as I had the garage door open, lucky my router table was phenolic so after sanding it like this I waxed it, no issues since, of course a bit less complicated electronics too
I will say, I didn't know of that company offered kit, but did something very similar with WD-40 and maroon scotch bright pads on my first table saw.
I never got it all the way to a bright "new" cast iron color, but it did come back to an even darker grey, and worked fine for years.
For the worst areas, I used a gasket scraper that uses a spring steel card as a scraping edge. This got some rust off, as well as the paint stains that were left by some prior owner using it as a painting bench.
I did finish mine with BoeShield T-9 as a protective layer afterward.
All that said, great work there, and best wishes with your shop recovery.
Had a similar issue with a 3-week-old Rikon bandsaw.
Only 24 hours of a roof leek onto the table bed in a partially temp controlled environment caused orange rust.
I was horrified and had to jump into action!
WD40 and scotch pads did most of the work. Top coated with good ol’ paste wax.
Is it smooth and flush? Yes.
Does it have a unique staining pattern? Most definitely!
(Not as cool as yours though)
The bandsaw and table are in fine shape.
It’s the stupid roof I’ve got to take care of!
The workshop is joy.
Until you have to use your skills to fix the actual workshop!
An annoying test of patience.
Which BTW is the most valuable lesson to learn and master in woodworking. IMO.
Patience.
Walk away and think.
Patience.
Work the problem.
Patience.
Fix.
@Wittworks: Have you tried ""Bar Keepers Friend" ?! It has been around forever. They have several different formulations, but the one that had best all-around performance for me, was the old-fashioned powder form.
My little needy project was a 55 year old Bridgeport Milling machine that had not been treated well (high-milage) and had been stored even poorer.
My project was not as brilliant orange as yours but was deeper in many places. "Bar Keepers Friend" brought my surfaces back pretty respectable. Near shiny matte finish. Certainly, far better than the oils you were using at the beginning of the video. You will need to rinse thoroughly and then coat with turtle wax or similar for long term protection.
I'll go back now and finish the rest of your video.
I cover everything with the tool covers. I have a cold garage and large temperature swings...no rush problems. In your case, the water would have run off.
Oh I feel this pain. I left pressure treated five-quarter deck boards laying across my table saw for about a month while I traveled, and, where they were in contact, same result. I've got the saw back to working order, but need to put some more time in to it.
Evaporust
Could you have used commercial grade vinegar to wash the rust before you conditioned it. Then use and oscillating sander with a 400 metal pad. Just a suggestion. Thanks
Wow, I understand your pain. A few years ago, I laid pressure treated wood on the saw only for a few hours. Well, two days later, I put the wood where I should have put it if I wasn't in a hurry. I may try your fix. A lesson learned.
It hurts. So bad, it hurts.
Evapo rust . Available at Harbor freight . Works great
in my experience, wd40 is not a rust dissolver. it inhibits rust, and can get between existing rust and metal, helping to remove it, but there's no chemical reaction there. I've had great results with naval jelly; it chemically reacts with rust, and will leave a temporary barrier layer on the metal.
My condolences!
Acquired an old Craftsman table saw a few years ago, in terrible shape. Rust, warped extensions, no fence, no miter gauge, electrical problems. Turned out the electrical was the easy part. Found an original miter gauge that fits perrrrfectly! Eventually got a Shopfox fence. Sanded, and sanded, and.... sanded. Scrubbed, ...... Got it looking decent. Runs well. Cuts well.
Someone recommended covering it with a moving blanket. Rusted up again, and now needs some more TLC. Well, I guess I chalk that one up to experience, and move on.
Hang in there! And again, you have my full and complete sympathy. Just remember, the sun WILL come up tomorrow. And I hate to mention this, but remember that, contrary to common belief, lightning DOES strike twice. Forewarned is forearmed!
I don't know you very well but from the newer videos I've seen (after this one) you seem to be a great human and father (as well as an talented and entertaining woodworker). I think I'm a pretty good judge of character. Love your video's and your honesty and I'm glad you got the saw looking as good as it does. I don't comment on videos unless I mean it and want to help out the creator. Great work, looking forward to your future videos. ( heart emoji) -Aiden V.
Man. I am so sorry!