I'm loving Kato's Uni-Track system in terms of ease of setup. They're not the cheapest, but are very robust and if you have enough of it, (thank goodness for kits), you can make a wide variety of layouts.
I'm going to be trying my first attempt at constructing a T-Trak module as an attempt to teach myself how to do scenery. Your wiring tutorial really helps!
Nice orientation training video for T-TRAK. We shared your video to our iN-structional Library, hoping to send you some well deserved traffic. Always nice to see T-TRAK incorporated into a home layout.
Thank you very much for your comments, and for sharing my video. I am, obviously, a huge fan of T-TRAK, and have a long history with N-TRAK as well. I have really enjoyed bringing my modules to train shows with my club, N-Scale of Bloomington Normal, but it has been my dream for many years to build a operations oriented, modular home layout as well. I have been quite pleased with the result, and hope that by sharing my progress others will be willing to "take the plunge" and discover the fun and versatility of this modular approach.
I wish I watched your video before I wired my T-Trak module. I added DPDT switches so that I could use Anderson Powerpole connectors for my home DCC system, and then have the Kato connectors on the other side of the DPDT so that I could bring the modules to a show. Great video, thanks.
Kevin thank you for this video it really helps us newbies to the hobby. I am considering t track modules due to being easy to move and having a small area to just work on so i dont get overwhelmed on my over all layout. Thanks David
hi Kevin... this video is packed with a lot of awesome info...if i had it to do over i think i'd go with the Kato...looks like you're making great progress....i like your command center...thx 4 sharing...vinny
Hello kevin,thank you for time you put in to your vids,very helpful,i just bought x2 of those kato 3 way connectors,they are a must for me as i only have 1 controller atm...very new to the hobby but Bitten by the Bug for sure😜👍 Blessings from Ireland☘
Glad you found my video useful. I find that the Kato track and wiring systems take a lot of the hassles out of model railroading. By the way, my wife and I have had the pleasure of visiting Ireland twice, and we just fell in love with the land and its people! Thanks for your comments - Kevin.
Great video, I’m so happy I found your channel. I actually graduated from ISU in 2020. I just got into Kato N scale and purchased the Chicago Northwester 400.
Howdy Grant. I have been working at ISU for about seven years now, so maybe we rubbed elbows and didn't know it. Actually, my dear wife bought me the same C&NW 400 set for Christmas. It really looks cool! Great minds think alike... Thanks for subbing to my channel, Kevin.
On my N scale Kato Unitrack based layout, I used the 3 way connectors to check out my layout feeder wiring before I finally attached the feeders to my three power buses.
@SP & ‘53, Daylight & Overnight Oh wow. That is brilliant! I never thought about using that under/around the layouts. Thank you for the idea. I am going to have to give that a try sometime. May not simplify the wiring, but it will at least make it look better.
Good Evening, Does anyone know how often you would need feeder track or for how much rolling stock or locomotives if you kind get what I am saying? I am new to the hobby and am not sure what variables would necessitate what amount of extra feeder track to keep a layout moving. Thanks in advance 🇨🇦 🍻
There is no hard and fast rule for the spacing of feeder tracks on a layout. I tend to go a bit overboard - better too many than too few. First off, I never trust a turnout to feed power. Their contacts can too easily get corrosion or dirt in them. So, I put feeders very near all three tracks of a turnout (including for any stub sidings). As far as the mainline, keep in mind that you are depending on the electrical connection of every track joiner from one power drop to the next. Considering that the longest Kato Unitrak length is less than a foot, that can mean quite a few connectors to rely on. I personally wouldn't feel comfortable spacing power drops more than about three feet apart. For all of my T-trak modules, I put a power drop for each mainline track (two for both sides of a turnout, if present), and often one for any sidings, if present. Hope that answers your questions - Kevin.
With my club we wire BWBW because we use the Kato double slip in a couple modules and with that module you can’t wire BWWB. We use a AR1 in our loop back module to solve the polarity issue.
Kevin is right though, the polarity is supposed to be flipped by using a second (inverted) bus, not at the modules. Doing so means your modules will work in any config including balloon loops instead of having to be rewired correctly for a multi club event.
@@attackeagle the way I have my modules I can retire the bus with loosening 2 screws and moving the wire over. Not sure how my crossover is going to work in a BWWB layout but we will see when the time comes to add my modules to a group outside my regular group.
I believe you are looking for part # 24-818 Terminal UniJoiner. It has wired UniJoiners on one end, 35" of wire and a male plug on the other. Hope that helps.
Hi Kevin! Ii have a bunch of Kato 24-818feeder joiners .I d like to keep the white plugs on them and not cut them off- is there a Kato junction box I can plug say 6-10 of these feeders into and run one wire to my Kato transformer and plug it in and run all-of the feeders off of one? Is there such a thing ? Please advise , Thank you, George USA
Unfortunately, to my knowledge, Kato doesn't have anything bigger than the blue triple feed extension. I just make a " daisy chain" of those for my bus line. While not perfect, I find it works very well. I hope that answers your question - Kevin.
I'm building a Woodland Scenic N Scale kit. The board will be only 3ft X 6 ft. The kit comes with 3 switches, it doesn't say whether they are manual or powered. My question for you is it necessary for this small size area kit to us a bus line around the perimeter or just a feeder to the main track?
I would suggest that you use more than one power drop for a layout of this size. I try to have a drop every two or three feet of mainline, and one for each siding (I hate to depend on a turnout to route power). These power feeders could be directly connected to the power source, but I think a bus line would be less messy. Assuming that your turnouts are insulated frogs, then this should go together pretty easily and work for DC or DCC. Live frog turnouts require a bit more wiring and a few insulated gaps to work properly. Hope this answers your questions - Kevin.
I'm using kato uni track for my ho scale layout and I'm wanting to put in a roundhouse and turntable. What would be the best way to go about this with the ho scale uni track?
Unfortunately, I have never used the HO unitrack nor tried to put in a roundhouse/turntable. I have found the Kato short track packs quite useful for odd lengths, but I don't know if that would be enough for such exacting needs. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
Kevin do you have a bus Eire thst you run under your layout? And connect the kato wire to your bus with say suitcase connectors? In thst css you'd never go cut off the white plugs ? Thanks George
Currently, I just use a "daisy chain" of Kato three-way extension cords for my bus wire. I haven't noticed any voltage drops on the layout, but I am considering going to a heavier gauge wire and using those suitcase connectors to attach the three way extensions. That way I get a heavier bus wire and my modules can keep their connectors. Sounds like we are basically on the same page there. Thanks for your comments.
@@kevinbrown104 k , do you keep al, the white kato plug or cut them off? Especially if your connecting to the Digitrax throttle ? Does the dcc throttle accept a ksto plug or is there a converter plug or just cut off the white plug and connect it to your dcc throttle?
@@NHseacoast I use the standard white Kato plug for power. That way my modules are compatible with everyone at train shows. I did cut a pair of female plugs and some wire to connect to my Digitrax system to each of the two independent mainlines. Hope that answers your question - Kevin.
Actually, T-trak modules are wired for dog bone operation. The problem would be that any crossover between the two main lines would be a direct short for DC and/or require a reverser for DCC operation. If you were planning on keeping the mainlines independent, then everything should work fine. It would be rather limiting, though. Hope that answers your question - Kevin.
Maybe you can help me. I just bought a new digitrak zephyr dcc system. I use ho scale kato unitrack. I'm using a single track. My question is; Can I use the blue and white wire from a feeder track as the wires between the zephyr pack and the track? Or will I also need to use a kato power pack?
Howdy Tony - sure thing. I connected my Unitrak electrical "bus" to my Digitrax Zephyr by cutting off the last connector, splitting the wires, and inserting and screwing them into the Zephyr's electrical connections on the back. Easy peasy. Mine was a but more complicated due to the reversed polarity between main lines on T-Trak modules...don't get me started on that! Hope that helps, Kevin.
I enjoy watching your videos, keep em coming. Could you tell me who makes that brick building kit with the two black stacks on it? It’s the one in your intro. I see it in other UA-cam videos.
Off the top of my head, I would guess that your 5th feeder is causing a short. That means either that the blue and white wires are mixed up on the 5th feeder (i.e. the polarity is reversed). Try reversing the feeder installation, and see if that does the trick. The other possibility is that the track connected to the 5th feeder somehow completes a reversing loop. If that track allows a train to somehow reverse directions, then you likely need an auto reversing circuit. Hope that helps - Kevin.
Strictly speaking, each module does not need a power drop. Depending on the layout size, you can get away with just a few powered modules per side. Having said that, I do put a power drop on each module. That means fewer unitrak connectors I need to rely on. Better to have to many than to few in my mind. Thanks for your comment - Kevin.
Does it FORCE you to use Blue White, White Blue? Otherwise, why wouldn't you just run it "properly?" That way you can cross over to different lines to pass or whatnot.
Adherence to the T-trak wiring standards is only necessary if you plan on taking your modules to shows and/or meets and connect with other modules. If you plan on keeping your modules solely for a home layout, then you obviously can do whatever you want. In my experience, the "blue/white, white/blue" wiring is easily overcome by reversing the polarity of the track power feed for one of the main lines at the power source. This gives you the best of both worlds - compatibility with other people's modules and easy crossovers between the mainlines. Hope that answers your question - Kevin.
Dude, the Unitrack packages have Imperial measurements right on them. They are also listed on Kato's website in Imperial, so not sure why you're complaining?
7 minutes in and this is already one of the most informative Kato track based videos I’ve seen. Awesome video!
I'm loving Kato's Uni-Track system in terms of ease of setup. They're not the cheapest, but are very robust and if you have enough of it, (thank goodness for kits), you can make a wide variety of layouts.
I'm going to be trying my first attempt at constructing a T-Trak module as an attempt to teach myself how to do scenery. Your wiring tutorial really helps!
The explanation of the unitrak wiring was very helpful. Thank you!
This is a great explanatory video on Kato wiring and t-track. Really helpful. Thank you for taking the time to do this!
Nice video on T track modules and how Kato works with this system
Thank you! Very well organized presentation. I'm a complete novice & wiring a layout is a mystery to me/ You've helped solved it.
Looking good Kevin....good info on the wiring
Great tips and info Kevin. I use Unitrak myself and love it. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Thank you so much! I'm just getting into the hobby - decided to go the KATO route - and this was amazingly helpful.
Great video, looks like a fairly easy setup, thanks for sharing ~ linda
Nice orientation training video for T-TRAK. We shared your video to our iN-structional Library, hoping to send you some well deserved traffic. Always nice to see T-TRAK incorporated into a home layout.
Thank you very much for your comments, and for sharing my video. I am, obviously, a huge fan of T-TRAK, and have a long history with N-TRAK as well. I have really enjoyed bringing my modules to train shows with my club, N-Scale of Bloomington Normal, but it has been my dream for many years to build a operations oriented, modular home layout as well. I have been quite pleased with the result, and hope that by sharing my progress others will be willing to "take the plunge" and discover the fun and versatility of this modular approach.
I wish I watched your video before I wired my T-Trak module. I added DPDT switches so that I could use Anderson Powerpole connectors for my home DCC system, and then have the Kato connectors on the other side of the DPDT so that I could bring the modules to a show. Great video, thanks.
Kevin thank you for this video it really helps us newbies to the hobby. I am considering t track modules due to being easy to move and having a small area to just work on so i dont get overwhelmed on my over all layout. Thanks David
hi Kevin... this video is packed with a lot of awesome info...if i had it to do over i think i'd go with the Kato...looks like you're making great progress....i like your command center...thx 4 sharing...vinny
Very good info on kato unitrack.
Very helpful tutorial! Thanks.
Great. Video love kato!
Thank you for a really helpful video.
Hello kevin,thank you for time you put in to your vids,very helpful,i just bought x2 of those kato 3 way connectors,they are a must for me as i only have 1 controller atm...very new to the hobby but Bitten by the Bug for sure😜👍 Blessings from Ireland☘
Glad you found my video useful. I find that the Kato track and wiring systems take a lot of the hassles out of model railroading. By the way, my wife and I have had the pleasure of visiting Ireland twice, and we just fell in love with the land and its people! Thanks for your comments - Kevin.
I use kato unitrack and all my feeder wires are from the 3-1 connectors..look forward to seeing more of your layout progress
Haha! Cool! I have over 75 ho scale model train engines!
Great video, I’m so happy I found your channel. I actually graduated from ISU in 2020. I just got into Kato N scale and purchased the Chicago Northwester 400.
Howdy Grant. I have been working at ISU for about seven years now, so maybe we rubbed elbows and didn't know it. Actually, my dear wife bought me the same C&NW 400 set for Christmas. It really looks cool! Great minds think alike... Thanks for subbing to my channel, Kevin.
Nice video! Wiring is something I need to work on, on my layout. The wiring for the yard is just a mess of tape and zip-ties under the table
thank you so very much very informative
im ewatching this the week before thankgiving 2020, still showstopper
Nice Hat!
I live in the middle of nowhere in rural America and there’s been no shut down except restaurant in town are all take out only.
On my N scale Kato Unitrack based layout, I used the 3 way connectors to check out my layout feeder wiring before I finally attached the feeders to my three power buses.
I neglected to mention that the layout will be on DCC
Kevin, have you looked at the flat conduit that is normally used for home stereo/ video wiring?
@SP & ‘53, Daylight & Overnight Oh wow. That is brilliant! I never thought about using that under/around the layouts. Thank you for the idea. I am going to have to give that a try sometime. May not simplify the wiring, but it will at least make it look better.
love the hobby but my mind turns to mush when the electrics are explained - i just dont get it!
Good Evening,
Does anyone know how often you would need feeder track or for how much rolling stock or locomotives if you kind get what I am saying?
I am new to the hobby and am not sure what variables would necessitate what amount of extra feeder track to keep a layout moving.
Thanks in advance 🇨🇦 🍻
There is no hard and fast rule for the spacing of feeder tracks on a layout. I tend to go a bit overboard - better too many than too few. First off, I never trust a turnout to feed power. Their contacts can too easily get corrosion or dirt in them. So, I put feeders very near all three tracks of a turnout (including for any stub sidings). As far as the mainline, keep in mind that you are depending on the electrical connection of every track joiner from one power drop to the next. Considering that the longest Kato Unitrak length is less than a foot, that can mean quite a few connectors to rely on. I personally wouldn't feel comfortable spacing power drops more than about three feet apart. For all of my T-trak modules, I put a power drop for each mainline track (two for both sides of a turnout, if present), and often one for any sidings, if present. Hope that answers your questions - Kevin.
@@kevinbrown104 Thanks buddy, I appreciate it.
Have a happy New Year
With my club we wire BWBW because we use the Kato double slip in a couple modules and with that module you can’t wire BWWB. We use a AR1 in our loop back module to solve the polarity issue.
Kevin is right though, the polarity is supposed to be flipped by using a second (inverted) bus, not at the modules.
Doing so means your modules will work in any config including balloon loops instead of having to be rewired correctly for a multi club event.
@@attackeagle the way I have my modules I can retire the bus with loosening 2 screws and moving the wire over. Not sure how my crossover is going to work in a BWWB layout but we will see when the time comes to add my modules to a group outside my regular group.
Great video. Where can I buy unitrack wired joiners as shown in your video
I believe you are looking for part # 24-818 Terminal UniJoiner. It has wired UniJoiners on one end, 35" of wire and a male plug on the other. Hope that helps.
damn it is hyper complicated for newbies
Hi Kevin!
Ii have a bunch of Kato 24-818feeder joiners .I d like to keep the white plugs on them and not cut them off- is there a Kato junction box I can plug say 6-10 of these feeders into and run one wire to my Kato transformer and plug it in and run all-of the feeders off of one? Is there such a thing ?
Please advise ,
Thank you,
George USA
Unfortunately, to my knowledge, Kato doesn't have anything bigger than the blue triple feed extension. I just make a " daisy chain" of those for my bus line. While not perfect, I find it works very well. I hope that answers your question - Kevin.
I'm building a Woodland Scenic N Scale kit. The board will be only 3ft X 6 ft. The kit comes with 3 switches, it doesn't say whether they are manual or powered. My question for you is it necessary for this small size area kit to us a bus line around the perimeter or just a feeder to the main track?
I would suggest that you use more than one power drop for a layout of this size. I try to have a drop every two or three feet of mainline, and one for each siding (I hate to depend on a turnout to route power). These power feeders could be directly connected to the power source, but I think a bus line would be less messy. Assuming that your turnouts are insulated frogs, then this should go together pretty easily and work for DC or DCC. Live frog turnouts require a bit more wiring and a few insulated gaps to work properly. Hope this answers your questions - Kevin.
I'm using kato uni track for my ho scale layout and I'm wanting to put in a roundhouse and turntable. What would be the best way to go about this with the ho scale uni track?
Unfortunately, I have never used the HO unitrack nor tried to put in a roundhouse/turntable. I have found the Kato short track packs quite useful for odd lengths, but I don't know if that would be enough for such exacting needs. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
Kevin do you have a bus Eire thst you run under your layout? And connect the kato wire to your bus with say suitcase connectors? In thst css you'd never go cut off the white plugs ? Thanks George
Currently, I just use a "daisy chain" of Kato three-way extension cords for my bus wire. I haven't noticed any voltage drops on the layout, but I am considering going to a heavier gauge wire and using those suitcase connectors to attach the three way extensions. That way I get a heavier bus wire and my modules can keep their connectors. Sounds like we are basically on the same page there. Thanks for your comments.
@@kevinbrown104 k , do you keep al, the white kato plug or cut them off? Especially if your connecting to the Digitrax throttle ? Does the dcc throttle accept a ksto plug or is there a converter plug or just cut off the white plug and connect it to your dcc throttle?
@@NHseacoast I use the standard white Kato plug for power. That way my modules are compatible with everyone at train shows. I did cut a pair of female plugs and some wire to connect to my Digitrax system to each of the two independent mainlines. Hope that answers your question - Kevin.
Would a dog bone layout need 2 feeder tracks?
How would you wire the yard, and other sidings on a dog bone layout?
Actually, T-trak modules are wired for dog bone operation. The problem would be that any crossover between the two main lines would be a direct short for DC and/or require a reverser for DCC operation. If you were planning on keeping the mainlines independent, then everything should work fine. It would be rather limiting, though. Hope that answers your question - Kevin.
Thank you
Maybe you can help me. I just bought a new digitrak zephyr dcc system. I use ho scale kato unitrack. I'm using a single track. My question is; Can I use the blue and white wire from a feeder track as the wires between the zephyr pack and the track? Or will I also need to use a kato power pack?
Howdy Tony - sure thing. I connected my Unitrak electrical "bus" to my Digitrax Zephyr by cutting off the last connector, splitting the wires, and inserting and screwing them into the Zephyr's electrical connections on the back. Easy peasy. Mine was a but more complicated due to the reversed polarity between main lines on T-Trak modules...don't get me started on that! Hope that helps, Kevin.
@@kevinbrown104 thank you.
I enjoy watching your videos, keep em coming. Could you tell me who makes that brick building kit with the two black stacks on it? It’s the one in your intro. I see it in other UA-cam videos.
Im having a problem i added a 5th feeder and when i plug it in all the power stops take it out power goes on what do you think is happening?
Off the top of my head, I would guess that your 5th feeder is causing a short. That means either that the blue and white wires are mixed up on the 5th feeder (i.e. the polarity is reversed). Try reversing the feeder installation, and see if that does the trick. The other possibility is that the track connected to the 5th feeder somehow completes a reversing loop. If that track allows a train to somehow reverse directions, then you likely need an auto reversing circuit. Hope that helps - Kevin.
Thank you sir
Does each t-trak module needs power?
Strictly speaking, each module does not need a power drop. Depending on the layout size, you can get away with just a few powered modules per side. Having said that, I do put a power drop on each module. That means fewer unitrak connectors I need to rely on. Better to have to many than to few in my mind. Thanks for your comment - Kevin.
Does it FORCE you to use Blue White, White Blue? Otherwise, why wouldn't you just run it "properly?" That way you can cross over to different lines to pass or whatnot.
Adherence to the T-trak wiring standards is only necessary if you plan on taking your modules to shows and/or meets and connect with other modules. If you plan on keeping your modules solely for a home layout, then you obviously can do whatever you want. In my experience, the "blue/white, white/blue" wiring is easily overcome by reversing the polarity of the track power feed for one of the main lines at the power source. This gives you the best of both worlds - compatibility with other people's modules and easy crossovers between the mainlines. Hope that answers your question - Kevin.
Dude, the Unitrack packages have Imperial measurements right on them. They are also listed on Kato's website in Imperial, so not sure why you're complaining?