I have been into N T-trak for several years my modules are primarily wood , I do have 2 made using 2” insulation with wood runners. Appreciate you using the Woodland Scenics kit. I have been tempted to build with the Woodland Scenics kits. However after watching this video I am hesitant to so. But probably will explore it.
It was a good exersize in trial and error, but if you are used to the rigidity and strength of the wood modules, these might not suit you. But for the cost, they are worth checking out.
I was recently bitten by the addiction to trains. Being a newbie I love your videos. You cover all the bases and explain things in a very simple and easy to understand way.
Time for a tip. I see that you used the Kato terminal joiners. After some bad early experience I've sworn off these. The small confined solder area is prone to cold joints, and tracking down 'open's where you expect connections is a pain. They also cost money. I drill small holes in the Unitrack roadbed and solder 24ga solid feeders to the outside of the rail, much like general practice for fixed flex-track layouts. I like the machinist blocks for weights. I usually end up using paint cans.
Bob, thanks for the suggestion. I am hoping that with the Lever Nuts secured to the module that they will provide strain relief. If they do break, I will solder them. I have used paint cans and bottles as well. -Heath
The modules at their price point are a great way to get folks started in the hobby. I bet if you ask Kato or WS they will tell you that’s the intent. I am doing a modular HO scale layout and I don’t have the tools to refine the wood. I am looking at buying at least the module part of future modules. Found 2ft x 4ft for $50. A bit more costly but more reliable than my work. I see that as another reason for the TTrack modules. Have thought about the soft bottom furniture leg screws? I think that would be a bit better than the bolts, but that’s just an opinion.
Dan, check out CMR products. They do a great job with laser cut wood stuff and have a line of standard modules and can do custom work as well. If I was going to target new modelers, I would make sure my kit was bullet proof. After putting together two of these modules this week, it would take a very talented beginner to put them together. They are a lot more challenging than the laser cut wood t-trak modules. I think on paper, the idea sounds like a good one, I just think they missed the mark a bit. Most of my modules have carriage bolts. So they have a rounded side to contact the table, but there is a square bit that can be turned with a wrench. Thanks for checking out the video -Heath
I have a couple of T-Trak wood kits that I've had for a while. I still haven't built them yet and I was thinking about trying out the Kato kits. I might still, depending on the room that I have.
Tom, It is so funny to me that you ask this because it took me a while to figure it out. They are apparently to attach the Shaper Sheet to the Foam. I have not tried the scenery part of the module yet, so I cannot tell you if they work. -Heath
I have these module kits and have used them. They are indeed very sticky and they hold the foil of the shaper sheet to the foam VERY well. They won’t be coming off any time soon.
Cameron, What do you think about the modules? Do they hold up well? I am concerned about their durability during transportation. I would love to hear your thoughts. -Heath
Hi Heath, I enjoyed your review of the Kato modules. Since you mentioned in another comment you’d like to hear my thoughts, here they are: I built 6 of these: 4 corners and two straights. So far they have held up ok, though I’ve been careful with them. I also had trouble with the t bolts on several of the modules and it’s very frustrating to adjust them when setting it up. For the construction: I found one piece of Masonite that was too long for the slot in the foam. I had to cut the foam to get it to fit. One tip: on the large pieces of Masonite with the t-nuts- when you slide these into the narrow strips of foam that form the bottom, rather than trying to force the entire edge into the foam at once, I found it much easier to slide them in from one side, pulling the foam down the edge. This compressed the foam as it was put on and allows for a tight fit. The shaper sheet is one of the primary reasons I went with these modules, as I really don’t like the “completely flat” look of the wood ones. One of my straight modules has a small hill and valley, and I also used the shaper sheet on one of the corners. That’s as far as my scenery has gotten at this point. The shaper sheet and plaster ads quite a bit of rigidity to the modules. While I haven’t done it yet, someone on The Railwire forum mentioned coating the foam in a thin layer of mod podge to strengthen them as well. My partially scenicked corner module is the strongest though. The outside has a shaper sheet and plaster. On the inside, I ordered a 1/4 inch sheet of woodland scenics foam. I made a template and then used a hot wire to cut a curve in the sheet so I could insert the sheet down into the module, creating a flat area. I then covered this with a layer of plaster cloth. This module feels very sturdy, so it’s probably the way I’ll go on the rest of them, depending on what I do scenery-wise. One issue I’ve had is with the super-elevated track. A few of my locomotives have issues in the middle of the two corners. It seems like they just don’t like the easement sections. It sure does look cool, though! I’m also not super-thrilled with the concrete ties as they don’t exist in the period I model. However, once scenicked I think they’ll be ok. I also had issues with the foam tack glue not holding the track well enough. If i did it again I’d use something like liquid nails for projects. Would I get them again? I’m not sure. The appeal to me at first was the “everything you need including track” approach. I do have concerns about the long-term durability of them. They definitely served my needs though, as far as a fast way to have a home layout during a pandemic (my only way of running trains previously was a loop of track at the office). You can see some pictures of the modules on my Flickr: Flickr.com/photos/cameron_talley Keep up the good work with these videos! Your channel is great!
Cameron, Thanks for the detailed writeup. It sounds like we have very similar thoughts on the modules. As for the wood modules being flat, CMR Products does sell modules made to be used with a bridge. I do not have one of these yet, but I really like the concept. I am doing a similar thing, a home layout until I can get back to the club. -Heath
I believe you are supposed to cover the sides with plaster cloth for durability. I have done that with Woodland modules for HO.They have been holding up for several years.
@@HumancityJunction If they did not include it, that is a mistake. The system is based on the Woodland Scenics Sub-Terrain system. Adding plaster cloth is an essential part of the module/layout build. There is no way it will hold up if you do not add the plaster cloth. If you're interested, take a look at the Woodland Scenics Sub-Terrain video here on UA-cam. It shows the process.
@@HumancityJunction You expect certain things from a company. They need to be consistent in how they advertise. If it's going to need more in-depth work....Say so.
Hi Heath, Thank you for this video. I am surprised at the amount of fit and finish required on this product. Just my opinion, but at times Kato seems to be a company that has products on both ends of the scale. For example, their Uni-track is as close to plug and play as you can get in the model railroad hobby, but some of their structure kits are very complex. This Kato and Woodland Scenics kit mixes both of those ideas into one kit. You have the plug and play Kato Uni-Track coupled with the somewhat extensive fit and finish of the Woodland Scenic Module kit. At the end of the day, I'm curious to see how the finished module complete with scenery stands up to daily use? Cheers, Rich S.
Rich, thanks a lot for watching. I definitely expected a bit more with the Kato name on the kit. I will definitely do a followup on the scenery and durability. -Heath
Very nice review. These module kits are really nice especially if you do shows. If I ever rebuild my layout I might seriously take a look at them. Nice bloopers. Thanks for sharing Dave
I am concerned about the durability also. Since the t trak modules sit on a table there may not be as many problems as you might think. If you have the wooden modules also the damage may be more likely to occur during transport.
It seems like I could put the wood modules in the trunk and not have to worry about them, but I would not be comfortable doing this with the foam modules. -Heath
Great video Heath. This should help people with their choices on module construction. I am still unsure of the approach I will take once I start. I love the idea of foam but I am still not sold on it over time. I keep hearing about shrinkage over time so that is a concern for me with track work. Scenery can always be fixed when needed. Maybe with the type of track you use, it wont cause any issues but since I use flex track and will hand lay some, I will probably go with wood framed modules and spline roadbed at this point. Subject to change as always. Cheers Rob
Rob, Shrinkages are something we all deal with as things get older :) The Kato Unitrack would keep everything aligned, but if you are using flex or hand laid, I would say you definitely want a stiffer surface. -Heath P.S. This comment went downhill quickly.
I was about to pull the trigger on 4 of these then a little voice said why don't you see if someone did a video on these and their experiences. Thanks for saving me from hours of frustration and cursing lol
Wilson, There are worse purchases you could make. But I hope my experience provided an opinion that helped you make your decision. Thanks for checking out my review. -Heath
Thanks. I have got Masterpiece modules for a Z scale layout. You provide practical information. I agree with the suggestions. They should have used something other than styrene.
I noticed that the undec double module is slightly offset from the rest. What’s your reasoning for this? Thanks for the insight on the WS modules, I have tossed the idea around of using these for the last little bit I need to complete a loop of my own modules.
Rebel, good observation. With the standard 13" deep module, making a simple oval, the two 13" deep straight sections, back to back, would be very close to each other. The deeper module is 16" deep. If I had the extra 3" off the back side, then I would have to make more of a circle than an oval, so the straight sections were not back to back. So keeping the extra space to the outside eliminates this issue. The other reason is that I like seeing the trains tun through the scene instead of along the edge of the scene. By having the additional 3" in front of the tracks, the train is "in" the scene I am going to build. Thanks for the question. -Heath
Hey Heath! Your getting closer and closer to do some train running! I do not know much about those modules but main thing would be if your pleased with them and your trains run smooth! - Jason
Hi Heath, I think you would have to treat those white foam modules as a delicate flower...very very careful and I do agree the high density foam would be an improvement. Ultimately the wooden modules are superior.
That unfortunate they aren’t quite right. They also seem a little short. The must have worked with Kato USA and Kato Japan. I don’t think there would have been the quality issues. Nice review and video on you Mod U Lars 😏
Nice review Heath. I was wondering what the kits were like after I saw one in a magazine not too long ago. They didn't really go into any detail like you did and point out any issues. Cheers John
love them bloops. entertaining video even though i know nothing about Kato kits. and you're right- they should finish the foam better in manufacturing unless the kit is absolutely dirt cheap.
That looks to be a really good idea Heath, I dont think i have ever seen those advertised over here in the UK, but good to see some different ideas. Well done on the build!
Thank you for this evaluation of these modules. I've been curious about them and was considering trying out one of them. You've confirmed my doubts so I'm not going to go ahead with a purchase. The wooden modules are light enough and the construction no more complex.
I agree. The foam just doesn't look structurally sound enough to handle being set up and taken down...which is what T-Trak is about. It almost looks like the wood modules are actually a bit more simple to build and use than this one.
Hi ya Heath. Being an N scaler, and one that appreciates modular sections, I had wondered about these. But after seeing your review, I don’t think I’ll bother. I’m curious Heath, if you already had the laser cut, wooden modular sections, why would you bother with these? Or were you just curious? Thanks for the review. Enjoy your weekend. See ya next time.
Norman, I was missing two corners to make a complete loop. So when I saw these I thought I would give them a try. Yes, I was just curious. I would stick with the kits from CMR Products in the future. -Heath
Take a look at Masterpiece modules. They are cut on a C & C machine doesn’t the cuts are precise. You do have to sand the and prefit the pieces. Construction is easy.
Ken, I am familiar with Masterpiece, but I use a company called CMR Products instead. A few people mentioned that with the Masterpiece modules that they had warping/twisting issues. So I went with the CMR Products modules and I have been very VERY happy with them. -Heath
Human[c]ity Junction Good to know. Thanks for sharing. Another advantage I had with Masterpiece is that they are only 40 miles from where I live. I will let you know if I see any warpage and such.
@@kenshores9900 That is a good reason to use Masterpiece. I could not find where they are located, but I know that CMR Products is in the Pittsburgh area.
Dwight, I would not make the same decision again based on what I know now. But they do get me one step closer to being able to run trains, so I am happy about that aspect. -Heath
Heath, check out Kevin Brown's channel. I do believe his whole layout is t modules. It is pretty awesome. I like the t module concept. Good stuff watching you building it. Not Bad my friend....Wilmer
The kits seem like a nice idea but it seems like a not so well thought out design and doesn't appear as if it would hold up very well over time. I would prefer the wood kit or build my own
Don't need to spend the bucks; I feathered in some KATO like modules on my own it has no structure like you said. Just used some styro and scraps of foam and boom you have a Woodland/KATO module. use them to fill in voids in the layout. All the other modules are 1x4 framed.
Though I have many criticisms of anything and everything W.S. on this episode I am not going down that path. My message is directed to you. I have worked in the Film, Radio, TV, and Theatre industry since 1954. I've personally have been a modeler since 1963. So I believe the advice I am trying to give you is constructive. When you are doing your V.O. Narratives.....SLOW DOWN. It appears you know what you want to say. It appears you have your content scripted. But your bloopers all seem to be of the same dialectician. You go to fast. SLOW DOWN. A few keys to narrating is, "When you think you are going to slow...speed up. The opposite is true. When you think you are going to slow you are already going to quick. SLOW DOWN even more." "Use your punctuations for a rest stop. BREATH." Think of yourself driving down an audible super highway. You need that next rest stop for a pee break. And finally, "Dramatic pauses help your brain to formulate the words. Before you mouth bluppers them down your chin." When you use a dramatic pause the audience's attention is perked up to believe, "OH WAIT, he is going to say something important." When actually your just thinking, "Oh PLEASE don't let me 'F' UP." Other wise OK episode, ~Jim
Jim, thanks so much for your comments. I definitely need to work on slowing down on my VOs. The Ny'er definitely comes out in me and I just generally talk really fast. Thanks for watching. -Heath
This product sucked from the very start. Anything pre-glued was crooked and looked like it was assembled by a 3 year old. The only good thing about it was the track and scenery supplies.
![Human[c]ity Junction](http://yt3.ggpht.com/x7QVkEOwPLT1jpTdKc9bwQYS93A-fLY8L-cJ8AWUDHojlJtpPAwMAoOHaEAr7MamfgyMAb-l2g=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
I have been into N T-trak for several years my modules are primarily wood , I do have 2 made using 2” insulation with wood runners. Appreciate you using the Woodland Scenics kit. I have been tempted to build with the Woodland Scenics kits. However after watching this video I am hesitant to so. But probably will explore it.
It was a good exersize in trial and error, but if you are used to the rigidity and strength of the wood modules, these might not suit you.
But for the cost, they are worth checking out.
I was recently bitten by the addiction to trains. Being a newbie I love your videos. You cover all the bases and explain things in a very simple and easy to understand way.
Thanks so much, I really appreciate the kind words!!
Time for a tip. I see that you used the Kato terminal joiners. After some bad early experience I've sworn off these. The small confined solder area is prone to cold joints, and tracking down 'open's where you expect connections is a pain. They also cost money. I drill small holes in the Unitrack roadbed and solder 24ga solid feeders to the outside of the rail, much like general practice for fixed flex-track layouts.
I like the machinist blocks for weights. I usually end up using paint cans.
Bob, thanks for the suggestion. I am hoping that with the Lever Nuts secured to the module that they will provide strain relief. If they do break, I will solder them.
I have used paint cans and bottles as well. -Heath
The modules at their price point are a great way to get folks started in the hobby. I bet if you ask Kato or WS they will tell you that’s the intent. I am doing a modular HO scale layout and I don’t have the tools to refine the wood. I am looking at buying at least the module part of future modules. Found 2ft x 4ft for $50. A bit more costly but more reliable than my work. I see that as another reason for the TTrack modules. Have thought about the soft bottom furniture leg screws? I think that would be a bit better than the bolts, but that’s just an opinion.
Dan, check out CMR products. They do a great job with laser cut wood stuff and have a line of standard modules and can do custom work as well.
If I was going to target new modelers, I would make sure my kit was bullet proof. After putting together two of these modules this week, it would take a very talented beginner to put them together. They are a lot more challenging than the laser cut wood t-trak modules. I think on paper, the idea sounds like a good one, I just think they missed the mark a bit.
Most of my modules have carriage bolts. So they have a rounded side to contact the table, but there is a square bit that can be turned with a wrench.
Thanks for checking out the video -Heath
I have a couple of T-Trak wood kits that I've had for a while. I still haven't built them yet and I was thinking about trying out the Kato kits. I might still, depending on the room that I have.
They were definitely worth checking out, and if they meet your scenery needs, they should work out. -Heath
Sticky Dots. What are they for?
Tom, It is so funny to me that you ask this because it took me a while to figure it out.
They are apparently to attach the Shaper Sheet to the Foam. I have not tried the scenery part of the module yet, so I cannot tell you if they work. -Heath
@@HumancityJunction They must be pretty strong to hold those two materials together. Say Stick Dot 5 times fast. Blooper reel! LOL
Tom, The couple of times I accidentally touched them, they stick pretty good to my hand. -Heath
I have these module kits and have used them. They are indeed very sticky and they hold the foil of the shaper sheet to the foam VERY well. They won’t be coming off any time soon.
Cameron, What do you think about the modules? Do they hold up well? I am concerned about their durability during transportation. I would love to hear your thoughts. -Heath
Hi Heath, I enjoyed your review of the Kato modules. Since you mentioned in another comment you’d like to hear my thoughts, here they are:
I built 6 of these: 4 corners and two straights. So far they have held up ok, though I’ve been careful with them. I also had trouble with the t bolts on several of the modules and it’s very frustrating to adjust them when setting it up. For the construction: I found one piece of Masonite that was too long for the slot in the foam. I had to cut the foam to get it to fit. One tip: on the large pieces of Masonite with the t-nuts- when you slide these into the narrow strips of foam that form the bottom, rather than trying to force the entire edge into the foam at once, I found it much easier to slide them in from one side, pulling the foam down the edge. This compressed the foam as it was put on and allows for a tight fit.
The shaper sheet is one of the primary reasons I went with these modules, as I really don’t like the “completely flat” look of the wood ones. One of my straight modules has a small hill and valley, and I also used the shaper sheet on one of the corners. That’s as far as my scenery has gotten at this point.
The shaper sheet and plaster ads quite a bit of rigidity to the modules. While I haven’t done it yet, someone on The Railwire forum mentioned coating the foam in a thin layer of mod podge to strengthen them as well.
My partially scenicked corner module is the strongest though. The outside has a shaper sheet and plaster. On the inside, I ordered a 1/4 inch sheet of woodland scenics foam. I made a template and then used a hot wire to cut a curve in the sheet so I could insert the sheet down into the module, creating a flat area. I then covered this with a layer of plaster cloth. This module feels very sturdy, so it’s probably the way I’ll go on the rest of them, depending on what I do scenery-wise.
One issue I’ve had is with the super-elevated track. A few of my locomotives have issues in the middle of the two corners. It seems like they just don’t like the easement sections. It sure does look cool, though! I’m also not super-thrilled with the concrete ties as they don’t exist in the period I model. However, once scenicked I think they’ll be ok. I also had issues with the foam tack glue not holding the track well enough. If i did it again I’d use something like liquid nails for projects.
Would I get them again? I’m not sure. The appeal to me at first was the “everything you need including track” approach. I do have concerns about the long-term durability of them. They definitely served my needs though, as far as a fast way to have a home layout during a pandemic (my only way of running trains previously was a loop of track at the office).
You can see some pictures of the modules on my Flickr:
Flickr.com/photos/cameron_talley
Keep up the good work with these videos! Your channel is great!
Cameron, Thanks for the detailed writeup. It sounds like we have very similar thoughts on the modules.
As for the wood modules being flat, CMR Products does sell modules made to be used with a bridge. I do not have one of these yet, but I really like the concept.
I am doing a similar thing, a home layout until I can get back to the club. -Heath
I believe you are supposed to cover the sides with plaster cloth for durability. I have done that with Woodland modules for HO.They have been holding up for several years.
Storm, I do not recall seeing this in the instructions, but if that is the case, it would make the module alot more stable.
@@HumancityJunction If they did not include it, that is a mistake. The system is based on the Woodland Scenics Sub-Terrain system.
Adding plaster cloth is an essential part of the module/layout build. There is no way it will hold up if you do not add the plaster cloth.
If you're interested, take a look at the Woodland Scenics Sub-Terrain video here on UA-cam. It shows the process.
Heath, I really enjoyed this. I was surprise at how complex the set was.
You and me both!
@@HumancityJunction You expect certain things from a company. They need to be consistent in how they advertise. If it's going to need more in-depth work....Say so.
Hi Heath, Thank you for this video. I am surprised at the amount of fit and finish required on this product. Just my opinion, but at times Kato seems to be a company that has products on both ends of the scale. For example, their Uni-track is as close to plug and play as you can get in the model railroad hobby, but some of their structure kits are very complex. This Kato and Woodland Scenics kit mixes both of those ideas into one kit. You have the plug and play Kato Uni-Track coupled with the somewhat extensive fit and finish of the Woodland Scenic Module kit. At the end of the day, I'm curious to see how the finished module complete with scenery stands up to daily use? Cheers, Rich S.
Rich, thanks a lot for watching. I definitely expected a bit more with the Kato name on the kit. I will definitely do a followup on the scenery and durability. -Heath
I would guess the light weight foam they used was to keep the cost of posting it down
Dale, I am sure every little bit helps when you are shipping large quantities, but the plaster is pretty heavy already.
That’s a pretty neat kit. And it’s rather cost effective. Looks easy to enough. David
David, Thanks for watching. -Heath
Very cool I didn't know kits like this existed, I am excited to see trains running in the future
Epic, thanks so much, I am getting closer every day!! -Heath
I think the Kato track is better than EZ track
James, Kato is usually top notch. This is the first thing with their name on it that was not the standard I usually expect from them. -Heath
I have some Kato locomotives HO made in Japan, I am upgrading to DCC
Thanks for sharing. I was curious about these kits but now I know they won't meet my needs. I will stick to wood modules too.
Maurice, I agree, interesting idea, but do not fit everyone's needs. -Heath
Very nice review. These module kits are really nice especially if you do shows. If I ever rebuild my layout I might seriously take a look at them. Nice bloopers.
Thanks for sharing Dave
Dave, Thanks so much for watching and commenting!! -Heath
Glad they will have a good home,you're welcome
Dave, I am glad you caught the unboxing!! -Heath
I can’t say modular either. Great review Heath. Can’t wait to see trains running around the oval. As for the kit, you get what you pay for.
Mark, I thought I was paying for Kato :) -Heath
I am concerned about the durability also. Since the t trak modules sit on a table there may not be as many problems as you might think. If you have the wooden modules also the damage may be more likely to occur during transport.
It seems like I could put the wood modules in the trunk and not have to worry about them, but I would not be comfortable doing this with the foam modules. -Heath
Great review Heath. The frustration on your face with all the bloopers. Love it everytime
Shannon, thanks for checking it out. -Heath
Great video Heath. This should help people with their choices on module construction. I am still unsure of the approach I will take once I start. I love the idea of foam but I am still not sold on it over time. I keep hearing about shrinkage over time so that is a concern for me with track work. Scenery can always be fixed when needed. Maybe with the type of track you use, it wont cause any issues but since I use flex track and will hand lay some, I will probably go with wood framed modules and spline roadbed at this point. Subject to change as always. Cheers Rob
Rob, Shrinkages are something we all deal with as things get older :) The Kato Unitrack would keep everything aligned, but if you are using flex or hand laid, I would say you definitely want a stiffer surface. -Heath
P.S. This comment went downhill quickly.
@@HumancityJunction Conversations that go uphill are no fun buddy :)
I was about to pull the trigger on 4 of these then a little voice said why don't you see if someone did a video on these and their experiences. Thanks for saving me from hours of frustration and cursing lol
Wilson, There are worse purchases you could make. But I hope my experience provided an opinion that helped you make your decision.
Thanks for checking out my review. -Heath
Thanks. I have got Masterpiece modules for a Z scale layout. You provide practical information. I agree with the suggestions. They should have used something other than styrene.
Ken, thanks for watching and commenting!! -Heath
I noticed that the undec double module is slightly offset from the rest. What’s your reasoning for this? Thanks for the insight on the WS modules, I have tossed the idea around of using these for the last little bit I need to complete a loop of my own modules.
Rebel, good observation.
With the standard 13" deep module, making a simple oval, the two 13" deep straight sections, back to back, would be very close to each other.
The deeper module is 16" deep. If I had the extra 3" off the back side, then I would have to make more of a circle than an oval, so the straight sections were not back to back. So keeping the extra space to the outside eliminates this issue.
The other reason is that I like seeing the trains tun through the scene instead of along the edge of the scene. By having the additional 3" in front of the tracks, the train is "in" the scene I am going to build.
Thanks for the question. -Heath
Hey Heath! Your getting closer and closer to do some train running! I do not know much about those modules but main thing would be if your pleased with them and your trains run smooth! - Jason
I am just hoping for smooth running trains. :( -Heath
Hi Heath, I think you would have to treat those white foam modules as a delicate flower...very very careful and I do agree the high density foam would be an improvement. Ultimately the wooden modules are superior.
Sean, It will be interesting to see how they do. -Heath
That unfortunate they aren’t quite right. They also seem a little short. The must have worked with Kato USA and Kato Japan. I don’t think there would have been the quality issues. Nice review and video on you Mod U Lars 😏
Steve, there was a concept in there somewhere, they just didn't quite hit the mark. -Heath
Great review they look nice but I question the durability over time. Nothing like wood 😜
Jerry, I agree!! -Heath
Nice review Heath. I've never build a module but I too would be concerned about their durability. Best, John
John, thanks so much!! -Heath
Nice review Heath. I was wondering what the kits were like after I saw one in a magazine not too long ago. They didn't really go into any detail like you did and point out any issues. Cheers John
John, I am still not 100% sure where they fit in the market. But I am glad I gave them a try. -Heath
love them bloops. entertaining video even though i know nothing about Kato kits. and you're right- they should finish the foam better in manufacturing unless the kit is absolutely dirt cheap.
Mystic, Definitely not dirt cheap and also not Kato standards. -Heath
Thank you, good honest review
Thanks for watching!
Awesome comparison. Thanks for sharing.
Rick, thanks so much -Heath
Another great and informational episode, thanks heath for the insight, i never seen these. Can't wait to see your trains running! Take care -ian
Ian, thanks so much!! -Heath
@@HumancityJunction Me and cameron watched it at 3 a.m. 😆
That looks to be a really good idea Heath, I dont think i have ever seen those advertised over here in the UK, but good to see some different ideas. Well done on the build!
Phil, it is my understanding that they are being distributed by Kato USA, so not sure how wide of a distribution network they have. -Heath
Great video! Doesn’t look sturdy at all. Lightweight yes, but if you take that to shows tou better have a good way to store them for traveling!
100% agree. Looking at the T-Trak layouts at the Amherst show this weekend, I have not seen any.
Fantastic review and well explained and demonstrated! Definitely something WS and Kato need to work on if they want it to take off. Cheers!
Anthony, I am curious how many they have sold and I did not find any other videos on them. -Heath
Thanks for the review, it was very informative and well done.
Path, thanks so much for the comment. -Heath
Great review, Heath. Can’t wait for the circus train come to town. 😀😎👍🏼
Drew, thanks a lot, I am looking forward to it as well. -Heath
Thank you for this evaluation of these modules. I've been curious about them and was considering trying out one of them. You've confirmed my doubts so I'm not going to go ahead with a purchase. The wooden modules are light enough and the construction no more complex.
Jerry, Thanks for watching -Heath
I agree. The foam just doesn't look structurally sound enough to handle being set up and taken down...which is what T-Trak is about. It almost looks like the wood modules are actually a bit more simple to build and use than this one.
Interesting stuff, never seen these before, Like the bloopers, funny.
Angel, thanks so much!! -Heath
Hi ya Heath. Being an N scaler, and one that appreciates modular sections, I had wondered about these. But after seeing your review, I don’t think I’ll bother. I’m curious Heath, if you already had the laser cut, wooden modular sections, why would you bother with these? Or were you just curious? Thanks for the review. Enjoy your weekend. See ya next time.
Norman, I was missing two corners to make a complete loop. So when I saw these I thought I would give them a try. Yes, I was just curious. I would stick with the kits from CMR Products in the future. -Heath
Well explained !
Sarla, Thanks for watching -Heath
Take a look at Masterpiece modules. They are cut on a C & C machine doesn’t the cuts are precise. You do have to sand the and prefit the pieces. Construction is easy.
Ken, I am familiar with Masterpiece, but I use a company called CMR Products instead. A few people mentioned that with the Masterpiece modules that they had warping/twisting issues. So I went with the CMR Products modules and I have been very VERY happy with them. -Heath
Human[c]ity Junction Good to know. Thanks for sharing. Another advantage I had with Masterpiece is that they are only 40 miles from where I live. I will let you know if I see any warpage and such.
@@kenshores9900 That is a good reason to use Masterpiece. I could not find where they are located, but I know that CMR Products is in the Pittsburgh area.
Human[c]ity Junction MasterPiece is in Austin Texas.
was that really worth the money? are you happy with it?
Dwight, I would not make the same decision again based on what I know now. But they do get me one step closer to being able to run trains, so I am happy about that aspect. -Heath
Heath, check out Kevin Brown's channel. I do believe his whole layout is t modules. It is pretty awesome. I like the t module concept. Good stuff watching you building it. Not Bad my friend....Wilmer
Wilmer, I really like Kevin's channel and I keep a close eye on what he is up to. -Heath
T trak modules get beat up in handling foam seems too fragile. Think I will stick with wood.
I agree.
I never really liked the track to scenery ratio with t track modules
I always felt the modules were about the scenery. And I agree.
The kits seem like a nice idea but it seems like a not so well thought out design and doesn't appear as if it would hold up very well over time. I would prefer the wood kit or build my own
Nate, completely agree. Great idea, poor execution. -Heath
Don't need to spend the bucks; I feathered in some KATO like modules on my own it has no structure like you said. Just used some styro and scraps of foam and boom you have a Woodland/KATO module. use them to fill in voids in the layout. All the other modules are 1x4 framed.
When I can afford it, I am likely going to get some more CMR Products wood modules.
Thanks for watching. -Heath
I got some ideas! Let's make millions and then retire!
Roy, I think the chances of us making millions as a model manufacturer are only slightly more likely than us making a million on YT. -Heath
@@HumancityJunction T-Trak modules!
Great review. I will pass. Way to complicated for me. At least, I would need a lot more patience.
I like the wooden modules a lot better.
@@HumancityJunction So do we. They look better. They are easier to work with. It's also easier to copy them and make your own. You can add to them .
Better watch out how many times you say...big ass..pect..lol
Scott, based on your profile picture... -Heath
Though I have many criticisms of anything and everything W.S. on this episode I am not going down that path. My message is directed to you.
I have worked in the Film, Radio, TV, and Theatre industry since 1954. I've personally have been a modeler since 1963. So I believe the advice I am trying to give you is constructive.
When you are doing your V.O. Narratives.....SLOW DOWN.
It appears you know what you want to say. It appears you have your content scripted. But your bloopers all seem to be of the same dialectician. You go to fast. SLOW DOWN.
A few keys to narrating is, "When you think you are going to slow...speed up. The opposite is true. When you think you are going to slow you are already going to quick. SLOW DOWN even more."
"Use your punctuations for a rest stop. BREATH." Think of yourself driving down an audible super highway. You need that next rest stop for a pee break.
And finally, "Dramatic pauses help your brain to formulate the words. Before you mouth bluppers them down your chin." When you use a dramatic pause the audience's attention is perked up to believe, "OH WAIT, he is going to say something important." When actually your just thinking, "Oh PLEASE don't let me 'F' UP."
Other wise OK episode,
~Jim
Jim, thanks so much for your comments. I definitely need to work on slowing down on my VOs. The Ny'er definitely comes out in me and I just generally talk really fast.
Thanks for watching. -Heath
This product sucked from the very start. Anything pre-glued was crooked and looked like it was assembled by a 3 year old. The only good thing about it was the track and scenery supplies.
There is definitely room for improvement.
It appears this is a review based on the product you wanted not the product they made. That’s a typical millennial faux pas.
Thanks for the visit. (FYI, I am not a millenial)