Mike, as you suggested in this video, I use an old freight car with a piece of masking tape on top. On one side of the tape, I've written "W" for white and "B" for blue, in keeping with the colors of the Kato feeder wires. When doing wiring, I simply run this car around the layout, to make sure I always connect the "W" wire to the same rail all the way around and the "B" wire to the same rail all the way around. Doing this really helps me avoid reversing the polarity of the rails anywhere on the layout. And under the layout, I use larger gauge bus wires, one white and one blue. I connect white feeder wires to the white bus wire and blue feeder wires to the blue bus wire. ...Roy
Hi Mike, I really enjoy your videos. They have been very helpful to me as a novice in model trains. Just on the subject of powering the double crossover; I found that not only did my new Kato controller not throw all four points, but the track current took a big dip making the loco stall for a moment [I'm DC only]. Both unsatisfactory problems were resolved by using a separate 12v volt supply. It was a non-operating crossover bought on Ebay so I was clad to find I had repaired it correctly, after discovering the trick to open up the base plate. That's all, and thanks again for all your excellent posts.
I'm new to this hobby. My dad had a train for years and I would watch him work on it. I'm sure I got into programming as a result of watching him. Plus I read Hackers by Steven Levy when I was in high school and I knew what I wanted to do with my life. Dad was an engineer and machinist, so I know it rubbed off on me. Anyway, he collected HO and I just don't have room for a compelling HO layout. I have recently started on N Scale and I love these little trains! The detail is sometimes better than HO scale! Okay, my question is this - when trying to identify track could you just use an ohm meter and check for continuity? Since one rail holds positive and the other rail holds negative (in an analog layout) there shouldn't be continuity between the rails, so if the rail isn't energized (IMPORTANT!!) you should be able to check continuity right? I suppose if you are trying to check across a 30 foot layout it might be a challenge finding leads for my Fluke that long ;) , but theoretically it should be possible right? In a simple oval it's not such a problem and can be easily visualized, but when you have sidings and inner tracks (like my pops had) it could be more challenging to visualize it.
Mike, another excellent video and clear explanation. I had three of these on my most recent home layout. They work very nicely. The power source is an NCE Power Cab.
Mike, I looked at this video again today. I am planning for a future home railroad using SCARM =simple computer aided railroad modeler to create the track plan. I am inserting a power lead track immediately adjacent to the double crossover. I have decided to insert a power led track with each turnout on the mainline, so that a "thrown turnout" does not cause loss of power.
Great video! But all in all, I solved my problems by cutting and insulating the outer rails at each half, parallel to the frogs. The cons are that I need more feed tracks. I'm with DC only locos, and my current research/project is an auto-reverse loop with sensors. Thaks for your tips
Mr. Fifer, this is a very important video. I learned something off this about the insulated frogs. I had the feeder track turned around so it came into the switch to go to the other rail and it back up and went foward then backed up and went forward...etc... I'm like WHAT the heek!!! So I turned the feeder track around....this was before I had UA-cam....lol keep up the great videos!!!! I've learned a LOT from you!! Thank you!!!
Hey Mike, great vid. But for keeping to polarity correct around my small layout, I just use the included power cable the Kato supplies and the 20-041 feeder track, but the only "flaw" is not putting the track in backwards to the way you wanted it to be in the first place.
I really like your videos. Your explanations are very helpful. I could not find a video where someone explains or shows how to digitalize this Kato double crossover. I heard the Digitrax DS-51 decoders don't work that good alongside this crossover. I was told to try the DS-52 instead. I have no clue how many of them I need (1? 2? 4?) and how all has to be connected. If you could explain that, I guess you would be the first. I would be really grateful. Thanks for all your videos and help and greetings from Germany!
Does how you wire the power affect if the switch works properly. I have one, not currently on my layout, that does not throw in all ways it should. FYI I’ve had it for a long time and it seems never to have worked completely.
I have a KATO 20-231 #4 SINGLE Crossover. All of your comments apply in the same manner? And the KAYO 20-231 has #4 Turnouts. Would you recommend "fixing" the rails as recommended in your other video?
Can you use a CDU unit with the Kato double crossover to throw the turnouts? Is there a maximum voltage - i think my main CDU packs a 32volt punch. I presume the turnout motors are “snap” as in Peco, not “stall” as in Tortoise? Dennis
My thinking/wondering; would someone be able to use two different/separate controllers? One for one side of track and another controller for the other side of the track, since its isolated in the middle of the cross over track, so to control the trains differently if not using DCC? and remembering to keep polarity correct or would that cause a short when train engine crosses the two power supplies at isolation point? That would be so cool if possible. Would that thinking work?
Another issue I found with this crossover is I had a reverse loop on one side. Took me a long time to figure out the outer rail was not cut and was causing my short on a dcc layout. Once I cut the rail it fixed all of my problems. That is info for people who have it connected to a reverse loop.
I have a double main which splits at both ends to form a complete dog bone loop. If the double cross over is in the middle of the dog bone, is it OK to have the opposite polarity? (e.g. red black, black red as red is my outside loop rail) or do they need to be the same (red black, red black with isolated joiners at each end)? Thanks anyone for the help.
One loop or the other will be a reverse loop and require an Digitrax AR1 ( or the like) , if you are running DCC. Polarity needs to be the same all the way.
Great video. I couldn't help but notice behind you in the start of this, a NM Rail Runner commuter set. Wow! Is that N guage? And if so, where can I buy that? Never seen it before. Cheers!
Hi, this was a very helpful video when I got my first kato double crossover, how very redesigning my layout I bought another Kato double crossover, which I placed immediately followthe first (so a train can change from lane one to lane three in a short distance). However, I got two control units, and I checked and double check my wiring, but when the train is in forward position into the crossover the other control have to be in reverse for the train to come out of the crossover then when it hits the power feed the controller red button trip in, it seems weid I know, I change direction on the second controller, press the red button and I'm away again??? any idea's ...Idris
@@N-Scale Hi Mke thank for getting back to me.. I said it was weird, one double crossove, fine...putting two together I have to switch one of the controllers off, all the dropper are on the correct rail but...somethings wrong somewhere. I guess I'll get a multimeter to sort it out, I'll let you know if I find out (it might be the way the position of all the blade on the C/O's - anyway keep shunting Iddy
Thanks Mike, i am seriously thinking of getting Kato track for my extension to my layout at the moment i am using Peco Setrack 80 and i am not really happy with it going onto the extension. I was wondering though can i use Peco joiners for the Unitrack instead of the Kato one’s, also the Peco power joiners , would they be ok also. Also what if any is the height difference between the Kato and Peco 80 setrack, i ask this because people over her say you have to pack the Peco track up. Great explanation on the video, i have subscribed to your channel and take on board your experience. Here in the Uk there is growing appreciation of Kato Unitrack and the Unitram has well.
The Kato profile is much higher roadbed than the Peco Track by it's self and you can not change joiners (and do not know why you would want to) because the joiners hold the roadbed together. Thanks , Mike
Thanks Mike, taken on board, it is just some people are saying to put Peco joiners instead of the Kato. Your advice and knowledge is always great to know. Thank You.
Rod 1 Peco code 80 is the same hight rail as Unitrack. Just pull the joiners off the first/last piece of unitract and join to the Peco code 80 using the Peco fishplates. However the Peco needs to be on a track bead to raise it up to the same height as the Unitrack. Unfortunately Peco code 55 won't join to Unitrack without a lot of hoop jumping, due to the rail height being different when joined :(
You have me confused. At around the 5:38 mark I heard you reference "four corners". Are you referring to the four turnouts? If all of the turnouts are thrown simultaneously, wouldn't that result in a collision between two trains if they try to occupy the crossovers at the same time?
Hi Mike, nice video as usual. Wiring has always been a puzzle to me and this video helps. One question though, how does the red car park at the motel without driving over the lawn? LOL.
Hi Mike it's me again so my question is do I use insulated unijoiners on the crossover and if I do is it both sides because my locomotive stalls in the center of the crossover
Mike or anyone , I love this double crossover but I did what you said Mike, but ever time an engine go over the cross over it stops no power. When the track in just in parallel all is good, but a soon as I throw the switch, the cross over has no power?? HELP Please.
I just jumpered the two inside rails to their counterparts on the opposite end. The one thing that should be noted (and I haven't read all the comments) is that the DigiTrax decoder for Kato turnouts will not work with the double crossovers. They can't handle the current.
I do have a question Mike. i am using some of these with regular atlas track. I am running DCC but want the remote turnouts on switches. Do I run dcc feeders to all 4 corners like you said and then run a seperate accessory power supply to the 2 wires on the crossover to throw it?
@@N-Scale thanks Mike but no need for the decoder of I am just using toggles obviously. i heard I need to convert these for dcc with the kato converter also unless I use a kato power pack?
Sorry i meant I need to convert turnout motors to dc from ac to use any other power supply. I was told the output from the kato powerpack that controls them is ac.
I put a double crossover in this weekend & didn't see the two sided package back :) but we did figure out the power issue. The on thing I do have a problem with is the switch, I tried all of my KATO switch controllers and none of them would flip the turnouts both ways. They would open it fine but then would only go half way when flipped the other way. I only had one switch controller connected so I'm not sure what the problem was. Any thoughts Mike?
+Mike Corwin What is powering the turnout control switch. Sounds like not enough power or flipping it too many times in succession (got Hot). Thanks , Mike
Mike, I know you're doing DCC but if I'm doing DC is there any difference in the wiring? My common rail ends up being the right side track of each pair, one rail thru the other not.
+Mike Corwin That is not common rail. This discussion is TOO long winded to type here. Common rail means one rail has NO GAPS and the gaping is done only on one rail. I am not in favor of this method. Mike
Hi Mike, I have watched this video several times and now I actually have a Kato Double Crossover and am planning my layout. If I just do a simple inner loop and a outer loop connected with the double crossover, do I need two power packs? Thanks.
@@N-Scale I've had the M1 Master oval set for a while, and just got the V5 and V7 variation ad-ons to make an inner and outer loop w/ the double crossover. I understand what you're saying about having to power both loops, and I assumed- as Kato promotes that all you need are the variation sets-that everything would be included to make this happen simply. The extra feeder track is in V5, but there's no place to plug it in. Do you have to cut the other feeder cable to the transformer and splice in the second one? Am I missing something? Thanks
@@stevenbullock9276 Kato also makes a three-way extension cable. At the end of the cable is a blue box with three connectors. This allows you to plug three cables in so you can power them all from one source. You can plug two feeder tracks into one of these cables, and power them both from the power pack. I also use them for custom crossover configurations, so both turnouts in the crossover are activated with only one turnout throw.
I hope this video helps some model railroaders. You done a great job explaining the cross over. What Email address do I use if I have Question for your ( How To ) channel Thanks Mike. Steve
+Craig Lord That rather depends on whether it's an electro or insulfrog crossover. Everard Junction has a good explanation of how to wire up the electrofrog variety.
that is unbelievably simple. Too bad Peco can't make it that simple. I don't see any big difference in the look either. Thanks for the knowledge. Ill hook mine up soon.
Mike, as you suggested in this video, I use an old freight car with a piece of masking tape on top. On one side of the tape, I've written "W" for white and "B" for blue, in keeping with the colors of the Kato feeder wires. When doing wiring, I simply run this car around the layout, to make sure I always connect the "W" wire to the same rail all the way around and the "B" wire to the same rail all the way around. Doing this really helps me avoid reversing the polarity of the rails anywhere on the layout. And under the layout, I use larger gauge bus wires, one white and one blue. I connect white feeder wires to the white bus wire and blue feeder wires to the blue bus wire. ...Roy
+N-Scale Union Pacific Evanston Subdivision Thanks so much Roy.
Mike
Hi Mike, I really enjoy your videos. They have been very helpful to me as a novice in model trains. Just on the subject of powering the double crossover; I found that not only did my new Kato controller not throw all four points, but the track current took a big dip making the loco stall for a moment [I'm DC only]. Both unsatisfactory problems were resolved by using a separate 12v volt supply. It was a non-operating crossover bought on Ebay so I was clad to find I had repaired it correctly, after discovering the trick to open up the base plate. That's all, and thanks again for all your excellent posts.
I'm new to this hobby. My dad had a train for years and I would watch him work on it. I'm sure I got into programming as a result of watching him. Plus I read Hackers by Steven Levy when I was in high school and I knew what I wanted to do with my life. Dad was an engineer and machinist, so I know it rubbed off on me. Anyway, he collected HO and I just don't have room for a compelling HO layout. I have recently started on N Scale and I love these little trains! The detail is sometimes better than HO scale!
Okay, my question is this - when trying to identify track could you just use an ohm meter and check for continuity? Since one rail holds positive and the other rail holds negative (in an analog layout) there shouldn't be continuity between the rails, so if the rail isn't energized (IMPORTANT!!) you should be able to check continuity right? I suppose if you are trying to check across a 30 foot layout it might be a challenge finding leads for my Fluke that long ;) , but theoretically it should be possible right? In a simple oval it's not such a problem and can be easily visualized, but when you have sidings and inner tracks (like my pops had) it could be more challenging to visualize it.
Mike, another excellent video and clear explanation. I had three of these on my most recent home layout. They work very nicely. The power source is an NCE Power Cab.
+Roger G. Perkins Thanks Roger , Mike
Thanks Mike, a great point to display. Technical point taken on board.
+Colin Mansell Thanks so much Colin , Mike
Thank you. Very helpful as im installing one right now as i watch.
Thank you for this beautiful explanation.
Thanks so much and hope it helped.
Mike
Thanks for sharing this video and information. I am thinking of including these in my layouts.
So now I’m forewarned !
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Very good Mike as your usual I enjoy you're . How to page I know I have a hard time reading the instructions on the back of the packages of kato
+Skip Sterger Thanks Skip , Mike
Tanks for sharing, simple the way you explained it. Really liked your box car ideal 👍🏻
Thank You Larry .
Mike
You have the NMRR cars I want! I have been looking for them for years, and have not had much luck finding them for a reasonable price.
Mike. Just saw this video. THANK YOU for great information 🙏
Thanks Bruce !!!
@@N-Scale your quite welcome. CHEERS
@@N-Scale Your Welcom
Mike, I looked at this video again today. I am planning for a future home railroad using SCARM =simple computer aided railroad modeler to create the track plan. I am inserting a power lead track immediately adjacent to the double crossover. I have decided to insert a power led track with each turnout on the mainline, so that a "thrown turnout" does not cause loss of power.
Sounds good.
Mike
Great video and modelling, very informative....thanks
Thanks so much David !!!
Great video!
But all in all, I solved my problems by cutting and insulating the outer rails at each half, parallel to the frogs. The cons are that I need more feed tracks. I'm with DC only locos, and my current research/project is an auto-reverse loop with sensors.
Thaks for your tips
Helpful video, thanks!
Thank You, Mike
Mr. Fifer, this is a very important video. I learned something off this about the insulated frogs. I had the feeder track turned around so it came into the switch to go to the other rail and it back up and went foward then backed up and went forward...etc... I'm like WHAT the heek!!! So I turned the feeder track around....this was before I had UA-cam....lol keep up the great videos!!!! I've learned a LOT from you!! Thank you!!!
LOL , Thanks Tad, Glad to help.
Mike
The box car idea indeed is great, yet so simple... I wld otherwise get confused quite easily; being new to the hobby...
hi Mine... great info for the crossovers.. thanks for sharing.. vinny
+bnsf6951 Thanks Vinny , Mike
A great informative video about the double crossover. Does the same hold true for the single crossovers?
+TrainCentral127 It does but the singles are based on the #4 turnout and I would not buy one for that reason.
Thanks , Mike
Hey Mike, great vid. But for keeping to polarity correct around my small layout, I just use the included power cable the Kato supplies and the 20-041 feeder track, but the only "flaw" is not putting the track in backwards to the way you wanted it to be in the first place.
+Wilhelm Leipzig The plug can also be put on backwards as well.
Mike
Backwards on the trans, or backwards from the wires into the connector to the track?
+Wilhelm Leipzig The small grey connector.
thanks
another excellent video
+C D “Carl” James You are more than welcome Carl.
Mike
Hi Mike, thank you for all the videos. Do i need two power pack to power both tracks?
In DC Yes DCC no
I really like your videos. Your explanations are very helpful. I could not find a video where someone explains or shows how to digitalize this Kato double crossover. I heard the Digitrax DS-51 decoders don't work that good alongside this crossover. I was told to try the DS-52 instead. I have no clue how many of them I need (1? 2? 4?) and how all has to be connected. If you could explain that, I guess you would be the first. I would be really grateful. Thanks for all your videos and help and greetings from Germany!
You would only need one and it throws all four corners at once. I use DS64's for all my turnouts with no issues.
Mike
Does how you wire the power affect if the switch works properly. I have one, not currently on my layout, that does not throw in all ways it should. FYI I’ve had it for a long time and it seems never to have worked completely.
It is not getting enough power to throw them all at once. You need to use more voltage.
Thanks , Mike
'got an old Shinahara i'm STILL waiting to use . . . This helps prep me - thanx
Thanks , Mike
I have a KATO 20-231 #4 SINGLE Crossover. All of your comments apply in the same manner? And the KAYO 20-231 has #4 Turnouts. Would you recommend "fixing" the rails as recommended in your other video?
I would try the Xing first, as trains are normally running through these forward.
Mike
Can you use a CDU unit with the Kato double crossover to throw the turnouts? Is there a maximum voltage - i think my main CDU packs a 32volt punch. I presume the turnout motors are “snap” as in Peco, not “stall” as in Tortoise? Dennis
I am pretty sure your CDU unit will be fine but the Kato Solenoids are polarity reversing and NOT twin coil.
Mike
Can you add power to the other end of the crossover via another powerpack with two powerpacks providing power at the same time??
Yes as long as they are set to the same direction.
Mike
My thinking/wondering; would someone be able to use two different/separate controllers? One for one side of track and another controller for the other side of the track, since its isolated in the middle of the cross over track, so to control the trains differently if not using DCC? and remembering to keep polarity correct or would that cause a short when train engine crosses the two power supplies at isolation point? That would be so cool if possible. Would that thinking work?
It certainly will.
Mike
@@N-Scale thank u ... Bachmann controller on one side and kato controller on other ... any issues with that?
Excellent! Thank you!
Thanks Murray
wOW THATS A GREAT VIDEO. THANKS
Thanks so much David.
Mike
Thanks for this
Another issue I found with this crossover is I had a reverse loop on one side. Took me a long time to figure out the outer rail was not cut and was causing my short on a dcc layout. Once I cut the rail it fixed all of my problems. That is info for people who have it connected to a reverse loop.
Thanks , Mike
I have a double main which splits at both ends to form a complete dog bone loop. If the double cross over is in the middle of the dog bone, is it OK to have the opposite polarity? (e.g. red black, black red as red is my outside loop rail) or do they need to be the same (red black, red black with isolated joiners at each end)? Thanks anyone for the help.
One loop or the other will be a reverse loop and require an Digitrax AR1 ( or the like) , if you are running DCC.
Polarity needs to be the same all the way.
Great video. I couldn't help but notice behind you in the start of this, a NM Rail Runner commuter set. Wow! Is that N guage? And if so, where can I buy that? Never seen it before. Cheers!
It is and Athearn made it may years ago and they are now collector items.
Mike
Hi, this was a very helpful video when I got my first kato double crossover, how very redesigning my layout I bought another Kato double crossover, which I placed immediately followthe first (so a train can change from lane one to lane three in a short distance). However, I got two control units, and I checked and double check my wiring, but when the train is in forward position into the crossover the other control have to be in reverse for the train to come out of the crossover then when it hits the power feed the controller red button trip in, it seems weid I know, I change direction on the second controller, press the red button and I'm away again??? any idea's ...Idris
The two sections of track have to be the same polarity or they will short out.
Mike
I'm using an Atlas 2564 15 degree diamond (DCC) which creates a reverse loop at each end.
How is that wired and do I need an AR1?
@@N-Scale Hi Mke thank for getting back to me.. I said it was weird, one double crossove, fine...putting two together I have to switch one of the controllers off, all the dropper are on the correct rail but...somethings wrong somewhere. I guess I'll get a multimeter to sort it out, I'll let you know if I find out (it might be the way the position of all the blade on the C/O's - anyway keep shunting Iddy
@@lawrencevarady5326 If you are referring to a figure 8 , that is not a reverse loop.
Mike
Hi Mike, do you have your track plan and/or photos of the layout you are showing here? I would love to see more of it.
Look here under Mike Fifer
and here.
www.fiferhobby.com/the-albuquerque-carnuel-tijeras-rr-actrr/
I'm about to find out. Although I'm tempted to put the KATO in because of the ease of throwing the turnouts electrically.
+Craig Lord Ease and simplicity is the advantage of Kato for sure.
Mike
THANK YOU...for sharing. Like the box car idea.
Will a NCE switch-kat power this turnout? It is getting signal and power from the track bus. Thanks in advance.
Yes
@@N-Scale thanks Mike. Happy new year.
Thanks Mike, i am seriously thinking of getting Kato track for my extension to my layout at the moment i am using Peco Setrack 80 and i am not really happy with it going onto the extension. I was wondering though can i use Peco joiners for the Unitrack instead of the Kato one’s, also the Peco power joiners , would they be ok also. Also what if any is the height difference between the Kato and Peco 80 setrack, i ask this because people over her say you have to pack the Peco track up.
Great explanation on the video, i have subscribed to your channel and take on board your experience. Here in the Uk there is growing appreciation of Kato Unitrack and the Unitram has well.
The Kato profile is much higher roadbed than the Peco Track by it's self and you can not change joiners (and do not know why you would want to) because the joiners hold the roadbed together.
Thanks , Mike
Thanks Mike, taken on board, it is just some people are saying to put Peco joiners instead of the Kato. Your advice and knowledge is always great to know. Thank You.
if you go kato you will never go back to anything else
I agree. I loved working with Peco code 55 though with great results.
Thanks , Mike
Rod 1
Peco code 80 is the same hight rail as Unitrack.
Just pull the joiners off the first/last piece of unitract and join to the Peco code 80 using the Peco fishplates.
However the Peco needs to be on a track bead to raise it up to the same height as the Unitrack.
Unfortunately Peco code 55 won't join to Unitrack without a lot of hoop jumping, due to the rail height being different when joined :(
Will the double crossover work on a simple dual-loop DC track? Is the wiring any different?
Yes it will.
Mike
@@N-Scale Thanks.
You have me confused. At around the 5:38 mark I heard you reference "four corners". Are you referring to the four turnouts? If all of the turnouts are thrown simultaneously, wouldn't that result in a collision between two trains if they try to occupy the crossovers at the same time?
No Trains in real life or models would ever be required to use it at the same time , if you think about it.
Thank you
Hi Mike, nice video as usual. Wiring has always been a puzzle to me and this video helps. One question though, how does the red car park at the motel without driving over the lawn? LOL.
+Fred Cordini Thanks and carefully.
Mike
+Fred Cordini... i was wondering the same thing... LOL
+bnsf6951 Hey Vinny, I think the fire department would shut them down due to no fire lane access. lol
Mike you talk about insulated joiners on a crossover...confusing?
I do not tlk about insulating joiners on the double Xing. What I say is they need feed from all four corners.
Mike
Hi Mike it's me again so my question is do I use insulated unijoiners on the crossover and if I do is it both sides because my locomotive stalls in the center of the crossover
If you are talking about the DOUBLE crossover , the crossing is insulated right down the center so NO INSULATORS and feed all four tracks coming in.
@@N-Scale wow okay thank you again you save me all the time
Mike or anyone , I love this double crossover but I did what you said Mike, but ever time an engine go over the cross over it stops no power. When the track in just in parallel all is good, but a soon as I throw the switch, the cross over has no power?? HELP Please.
Sounds like a short (reversed polarity ) on the two loops.
I just jumpered the two inside rails to their counterparts on the opposite end. The one thing that should be noted (and I haven't read all the comments) is that the DigiTrax decoder for Kato turnouts will not work with the double crossovers. They can't handle the current.
I used the DS64's here and also the club with no issues.
Mike
I do have a question Mike. i am using some of these with regular atlas track. I am running DCC but want the remote turnouts on switches. Do I run dcc feeders to all 4 corners like you said and then run a seperate accessory power supply to the 2 wires on the crossover to throw it?
Yes but you will need a stationary decoder to throw the turnout if that is your plan.
Thanks , Mike
@@N-Scale thanks Mike but no need for the decoder of I am just using toggles obviously. i heard I need to convert these for dcc with the kato converter also unless I use a kato power pack?
@@TruthBlitzMedia I am not sure what you mean here.
Mike
Sorry i meant I need to convert turnout motors to dc from ac to use any other power supply. I was told the output from the kato powerpack that controls them is ac.
@@TruthBlitzMedia I am also unclear on the brand of track and switch machines you are using
I put a double crossover in this weekend & didn't see the two sided package back :) but we did figure out the power issue. The on thing I do have a problem with is the switch, I tried all of my KATO switch controllers and none of them would flip the turnouts both ways. They would open it fine but then would only go half way when flipped the other way. I only had one switch controller connected so I'm not sure what the problem was. Any thoughts Mike?
+Mike Corwin What is powering the turnout control switch. Sounds like not enough power or flipping it too many times in succession (got Hot).
Thanks , Mike
+Mike Fifer I had the kato switch attached to the kato power pack
+Mike Corwin It should work, not sure why not but sure it needs more power.
Mike
+Mike Fifer Would it be likely that I may need to upgrade to some other non-kato power pack?
+Mike Corwin Yes.
Mike, I know you're doing DCC but if I'm doing DC is there any difference in the wiring? My common rail ends up being the right side track of each pair, one rail thru the other not.
+Mike Corwin There should be no difference but I would personally NEVER use a common rail system.
Thanks , Mike
+Mike Fifer Interesting, isn't what you described in the video a common rail system? White to one rail all the way around, blue to the other.
+Mike Corwin That is not common rail. This discussion is TOO long winded to type here. Common rail means one rail has NO GAPS and the gaping is done only on one rail. I am not in favor of this method.
Mike
+Mike Fifer ok, that makes sense
Hi Mike, I have watched this video several times and now I actually have a Kato Double Crossover and am planning my layout. If I just do a simple inner loop and a outer loop connected with the double crossover, do I need two power packs? Thanks.
No but the double Xing is insulated right down the middle so you need feed to eack corner of the Xing (from somewhere)
@@N-Scale It will be a one train operation. Thanks Mike I enjoy all of your videos.
@@richmljr Thank You Rich !!
@@N-Scale I've had the M1 Master oval set for a while, and just got the V5 and V7 variation ad-ons to make an inner and outer loop w/ the double crossover. I understand what you're saying about having to power both loops, and I assumed- as Kato promotes that all you need are the variation sets-that everything would be included to make this happen simply. The extra feeder track is in V5, but there's no place to plug it in. Do you have to cut the other feeder cable to the transformer and splice in the second one? Am I missing something? Thanks
@@stevenbullock9276 Kato also makes a three-way extension cable. At the end of the cable is a blue box with three connectors. This allows you to plug three cables in so you can power them all from one source. You can plug two feeder tracks into one of these cables, and power them both from the power pack. I also use them for custom crossover configurations, so both turnouts in the crossover are activated with only one turnout throw.
I hope this video helps some model railroaders. You done a great job explaining the cross over. What Email address do I use if I have Question for your ( How To ) channel Thanks Mike. Steve
+sdyoung Thanks Steve, I use mlfifer@hotmail but prefer phone calls on 575-527-9293
Thanks , Mike
I like the freight car idea. I suppose the wiring is the same for the PECO double x over.
+Craig Lord I have never wired a Peco.
Thanks , Mike
+Craig Lord That rather depends on whether it's an electro or insulfrog crossover. Everard Junction has a good explanation of how to wire up the electrofrog variety.
What if your inner loop is on power supply 1, and outer loop is on power supply 2 ?
Both loops would have to be running in the same direction to cross over.
Mike
If there are no gaps, you can connect the power 186000 miles away, and it will make no difference
that is unbelievably simple. Too bad Peco can't make it that simple. I don't see any big difference in the look either. Thanks for the knowledge. Ill hook mine up soon.
even more confused now!
What is it you do not understand?