The way you removed the belts without removing the fan was freaking brilliant---I feel so stupid for not figuring this out. Adding insult to the injury is the fact that I am an engineer. Thanks for posting this mate
Thank you so much for these videos. I'm about to start on a long journey of restoring my aunt's 1996 FZJ80. I'm pretty much a level 1 beginner but your videos give me the confidence to attempt every repair needed to restore her landcruiser to roadworthiness.
How you removed the belts without removing the fan is freaking brilliant---I feel so stupid for not figuring this out, and I am an engineer. Thanks for posting this mate
thank You thank You thank You. I just bought my j8 95 and those belt needs to be replase asap. I dong have haynes manual yet but thanks to You I will replace this by myself. All the best Sir
Just picked up a 93 Landcruiser with 105000 miles. Going thru all the needed maintenance at this point, always garaged by previous owner who bought it new.
Thanks so much for the video! Instructions were clear and I appreciated all the info on socket sizes and torque specs written into the video. Most enjoyable repair I've done on my 80, thanks to you!
Awesome video! the level of details rivals best car videos on youtube. Is it possible you could do a video for fuel filter on the FZJ80? some people say to take out the front wheel, others just to do it from under the vehicle. Would be nice to see how you crack this one. Keep up the good job!
Thanks Uiolibre, that's some high praise and we truly appreciate it. We're looking at filming the fuel filter at some stage in future, as you say it's challenging to get to (especially for filming) and certainly one of those things one might wish Toyota put somewhere different!
I recently did a head gasket, the belts came off as I gave the clutch fan a birthday also, . Be prepared I say, from my experience. my alt belt idler rattled real loose and air condo idler was tight as hell. Beware, AC idler has two sizes, 70mm and 90mm diameters, the 90 mm is random farm machinery type, good luck.
Excellent video - thank you - clear explanations on the way to do it Recently changed all the belts by a mechanic - noticed that the belts are singing ( that is what is call it) not slipping Does that mean the belts are the wrong way around and need removing twisting around and putting back on ? Or are the belts the wrong type for the Land cruiser petrol 105 series (1998) Thanking you in advance - hope to hear from you soon
Thanks for the feedback Raymond. It's difficult to know exactly without seeing the car but generally the belts can only go on one way - there isn't a "back" or "front" side and the V's of the belt should sit in the V of the pulley. I'd suggest checking the tension or trying to narrow down where the noise is coming from as sometimes pulleys can make a similar noise. Hope this helps!
Good video. My only suggestion would be instead of trying to feed the old belts around the fan just cut them. You're replacing them anyways so just cut those ones off to save a little time and effort.
Hi, we typically recommend keeping the old belts as spares, stowed away in the car for that worst case scenario where the belts snap while you're on the road. I have had this happen previously with an A/C belt, however it can be much worse if the alternator and water pump belts let go! This obviously assumes the existing belts are in a serviceable condition when being replaced. Thanks for watching
The hint at the end suggests that after 5 minutes running tension needs to be backed off new belt specs (ca. 110 for alternator belts) to used belt specs (ca. 65).. which seems a lot (tho the running will seat the belt a bit into the pulleys); is that what you really mean?
Hi Chris, the difference in tension for old vs new belts is to account for the fact that a new belt will stretch when first run in, after which point it will be at a lower tension at the newly elongated length. This stretching process happens fairly quickly, hence a belt being treated as used after 5 minutes of running here. Hope that clarifies it
@@2ndGearLow Yep, ok, but my question really is .. after you do the 5 min run in on a new belt & retest for tension, you use & adjust to the old belt spec, right? Is it normal that if set at mid range new spec it will be mid range old spec after 5 min, or do you often need to adjust after 5 min run in (now using old belt spec)?
You are correct. However the cogged belts we used in the Terrain Tamer kit are suitable replacements. Cogged belts can be used with the same pulleys as equivalently rated flat V-belts and actually have some advantages like longer life and slightly higher efficiency.
Hi Shane, thanks for watching. It really depends on how tight that pivot bolt is already, you only need to loosen it slightly to allow that alternator to pivot on the bolt. If tight, it essentially clamps that corner of the alternator and stops it from allowing any movement to loosen the belts, so you will likely need to at least crack the bolt to reduce that clamping force, without fulling loosening it off
Hi Daniel, the Toyota part numbers for both types of belts (standard trapezoidal V-belts) are shown in the video. However, there is nothing wrong with using notched V-belts, as shown in the kit installed. It's fairly well established that notched V-belts offer several advantages over the classical V-belt design, e.g. the notches reduce bending resistance of the belt, resulting in them running more efficiently. Terrain Tamer specifically claim superior temperature resistance, higher shock load resistance and stronger grip in wet and dry conditions for this belt kit, all of which would be at least partly due to the notches. If you look at aftermarket options, including dedicated belt suppliers such as Gates or Dayco, you will find they almost all use notched V-belts as the replacement option for these belts.
The way you removed the belts without removing the fan was freaking brilliant---I feel so stupid for not figuring this out. Adding insult to the injury is the fact that I am an engineer. Thanks for posting this mate
Thank you so much for these videos. I'm about to start on a long journey of restoring my aunt's 1996 FZJ80. I'm pretty much a level 1 beginner but your videos give me the confidence to attempt every repair needed to restore her landcruiser to roadworthiness.
Thank you, glad to hear the videos are helping out and best of luck for your restoration
How you removed the belts without removing the fan is freaking brilliant---I feel so stupid for not figuring this out, and I am an engineer. Thanks for posting this mate
I'm learning so much here. Simply no nonsense, just pure knowledge. Loving your channel mate.
Thank you for watching, we appreciate your kind feedback!
Well explained ,no mucking around,thank you.
Glad you liked it!
thank You thank You thank You. I just bought my j8 95 and those belt needs to be replase asap. I dong have haynes manual yet but thanks to You I will replace this by myself. All the best Sir
Thanks for watching Bill, we hope the job has gone well!
Just picked up a 93 Landcruiser with 105000 miles. Going thru all the needed maintenance at this point, always garaged by previous owner who bought it new.
Nice one Nad, sounds like a good buy
I bought it off lebos im still not on the road and its been a year😢
Seriously, the best and most easy to follow 80 series maintenance videos on UA-cam. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Thanks heaps Adam, we really appreciate it!
Second video I've watched from you and really enjoy the way you deliver content and film things. Nicely done. Subscribed!
Thank you very much!
Your videos are the best! Can’t thank you enough for doing a great job and for myself finding your channel!
Glad you like them!
This was a great video way better explanation than most other videos on here. Great job and thank you.
Thanks for watching Leonel! We appreciate your feedback
One of the best instructionals I have seen on UA-cam. Well done and thank you. Subscribed!
Thank you Laurence, welcome! We really appreciate your feedback and subscribing
Thanks for the video! Absolutely love the quality of what you put together.
Thanks Tom, we really appreciate your kind feedback
Thanks so much for the video! Instructions were clear and I appreciated all the info on socket sizes and torque specs written into the video. Most enjoyable repair I've done on my 80, thanks to you!
Thanks Tray, we're glad we could help and thanks a lot for your feedback!
Great video. Thanks a lot. Some more ideas if you have the time:
- coolant flush
- chassis lubrication
- brakes
Keep it up guys!!!
Hey Dan, thanks a lot for your feedback and we really appreciate the video ideas, certainly some good ones there
Good idea to change pulleys at regular intervals. Ya never know until it starts making noise. I did mine at 95,000 miles.
Very well done. Keep up the good work with 80 series videos.
Thanks a lot, we really appreciate the support!
Very well explained and video footage, made it very easy to change mine, cheers.
Thanks for the feedback Chelsea! Glad it helped.
Great video
Thanks!
Thank you. Very helpful!
No problem Ant, thanks for watching!
Great visual of all the steps. Thanks for the video bud!
No problem, thanks again
well done!!
Thank you Chia!
awesome video super helpful thank you!
Thanks Julio, we're glad you found it helpful
Awesome video! the level of details rivals best car videos on youtube. Is it possible you could do a video for fuel filter on the FZJ80? some people say to take out the front wheel, others just to do it from under the vehicle. Would be nice to see how you crack this one. Keep up the good job!
Thanks Uiolibre, that's some high praise and we truly appreciate it. We're looking at filming the fuel filter at some stage in future, as you say it's challenging to get to (especially for filming) and certainly one of those things one might wish Toyota put somewhere different!
Thanks good video. Easy to follow.
Thanks Buggy, we appreciate your feedback!
I recently did a head gasket, the belts came off as I gave the clutch fan a birthday also, . Be prepared I say, from my experience. my alt belt idler rattled real loose and air condo idler was tight as hell. Beware, AC idler has two sizes, 70mm and 90mm diameters, the 90 mm is random farm machinery type, good luck.
Thanks for watching Tony
You the best thank you for all 🇦🇺🍷🌹
Thanks for watching and commenting Tasos!
Another brilliant video.
Thank you!
Excellent video - thank you - clear explanations on the way to do it
Recently changed all the belts by a mechanic - noticed that the belts are singing ( that is what is call it) not slipping
Does that mean the belts are the wrong way around and need removing twisting around and putting back on ?
Or are the belts the wrong type for the Land cruiser petrol 105 series (1998)
Thanking you in advance - hope to hear from you soon
Thanks for the feedback Raymond. It's difficult to know exactly without seeing the car but generally the belts can only go on one way - there isn't a "back" or "front" side and the V's of the belt should sit in the V of the pulley. I'd suggest checking the tension or trying to narrow down where the noise is coming from as sometimes pulleys can make a similar noise. Hope this helps!
Good video. My only suggestion would be instead of trying to feed the old belts around the fan just cut them. You're replacing them anyways so just cut those ones off to save a little time and effort.
Hi, we typically recommend keeping the old belts as spares, stowed away in the car for that worst case scenario where the belts snap while you're on the road. I have had this happen previously with an A/C belt, however it can be much worse if the alternator and water pump belts let go! This obviously assumes the existing belts are in a serviceable condition when being replaced. Thanks for watching
another fantastic video!!
Thanks Kevin, much appreciated!
have you done the ac compressor ???
The hint at the end suggests that after 5 minutes running tension needs to be backed off new belt specs (ca. 110 for alternator belts) to used belt specs (ca. 65).. which seems a lot (tho the running will seat the belt a bit into the pulleys); is that what you really mean?
Hi Chris, the difference in tension for old vs new belts is to account for the fact that a new belt will stretch when first run in, after which point it will be at a lower tension at the newly elongated length. This stretching process happens fairly quickly, hence a belt being treated as used after 5 minutes of running here. Hope that clarifies it
@@2ndGearLow Yep, ok, but my question really is .. after you do the 5 min run in on a new belt & retest for tension, you use & adjust to the old belt spec, right?
Is it normal that if set at mid range new spec it will be mid range old spec after 5 min, or do you often need to adjust after 5 min run in (now using old belt spec)?
I thought the OEM belts weren't cogg?
You are correct. However the cogged belts we used in the Terrain Tamer kit are suitable replacements. Cogged belts can be used with the same pulleys as equivalently rated flat V-belts and actually have some advantages like longer life and slightly higher efficiency.
Do you have video for the 1hz engine ?
Hi Sonam, unfortunately no video for belt changes on the 1HZ as we don't have a Cruiser with that engine
Does the pivot bolt have to be loosened? Mines dang near stripped and I don’t want to risk it, and if I did, I doubt I’d get it off
Hi Shane, thanks for watching. It really depends on how tight that pivot bolt is already, you only need to loosen it slightly to allow that alternator to pivot on the bolt. If tight, it essentially clamps that corner of the alternator and stops it from allowing any movement to loosen the belts, so you will likely need to at least crack the bolt to reduce that clamping force, without fulling loosening it off
@@2ndGearLow thanks! I managed to get it with an extractor socket and some penetrating oil.
@@shootandcruise Nice work
Don't use toothed belts. Use Toyota belts.
Hi Daniel, the Toyota part numbers for both types of belts (standard trapezoidal V-belts) are shown in the video. However, there is nothing wrong with using notched V-belts, as shown in the kit installed. It's fairly well established that notched V-belts offer several advantages over the classical V-belt design, e.g. the notches reduce bending resistance of the belt, resulting in them running more efficiently. Terrain Tamer specifically claim superior temperature resistance, higher shock load resistance and stronger grip in wet and dry conditions for this belt kit, all of which would be at least partly due to the notches. If you look at aftermarket options, including dedicated belt suppliers such as Gates or Dayco, you will find they almost all use notched V-belts as the replacement option for these belts.
Best videos around, super clear and well detailed, cheers for the help 🤙🏽
Thanks Ross, we really appreciate that, and great to hear the videos are helping you out!