Great video! I watched this video the other day and just got through doing the job tonight. The ability to sneak the fan out from behind the corner of the shroud was a very helpful tip. I was in a crunch for time as the clutch didn't show up till after 7pm and I wanted to get r done before dark. The engine was nice n hot from just being driven which made it a touchy situation. I took two additional shortcuts that shaved a bit more time off the job that I'd like to share. First I left the belts tight and I put a box end wrench on the fan clutch nuts and then took a length of 2X4 and bounced it on the end of the wrench to break the nuts loose. To index the pulley around I just slowly put pressure on the end of the wrench while on a tight nut allowing the belt to slip until it got into a good position for bouncing the 2X4 on the wrench. I had my wife hold a long pry bar between the water pump pulley and the crank pulley to counteract the tension of the belts and help ensure the water pump pulley didn't slide off the water pump studs while I spun the nuts off and pulled the fan and clutch out. I was then able to put the new fan clutch on and tighten the nuts against the belt friction. You just have to be sure that the center hole in the pulley is properly piloted on the snout of the water pump while tightening up the nuts. This is done with a little adjusting of pry bar to move the pulley around to ensure its properly seated. Whole job was done in about 30 minutes. Keep the Cruiser content coming.
Where were you a week ago! :) I watched your video on the 4runner to do this. Nearly identical and on my '97 FZJ80 it was easy. The key is loosening the alternator and for the time saved, pulled the battery to get easy access. In my case I opted to put a new fan in as well ... after 25 years why not! Also, I torqued and paint-marked each bolt to check on them in the future! GOOD STUFF @timmythetoolman!!!
Yeah, removing the battery box would have helped for access to the alternator bolts. Since Rey had a jumble of accessory wires running to the battery, I didn't want to mess with it. Thanks for the comment.
Great video! If you need them, you can find torque specs for specific bolt size and grade in a table form. Also, it's useful to have a radiator fin comb in the off chance you bend the fins. Not critical, just nice to have.
Glad you like the video. Yeah, I know about the bolt charts for suggested torque values. I've never used them though, because when I don't have a torque value, I just go by feel using the Gudentite spec. A radiator fin comb? I've never heard of one. Got a link to one you like?
So you ask why not just replace the fluid inside the old fan clutch. Well, the modification Redline does is not just changing the fluid. They alter the spring as well. We don't know how they're doing this and that's why we bought from them. The reason for this job wasn't to fix a failing fan clutch. It was to replace the OEM one with a modified one. Make sense?
Finally an 80 series video 😅. How's the engine running after the rebuild? Or did Rey got a brand new short block from the dealer?
Engine is running well. He got a rebuilt engine from Yota1 Performance.
Great video! I watched this video the other day and just got through doing the job tonight. The ability to sneak the fan out from behind the corner of the shroud was a very helpful tip. I was in a crunch for time as the clutch didn't show up till after 7pm and I wanted to get r done before dark. The engine was nice n hot from just being driven which made it a touchy situation. I took two additional shortcuts that shaved a bit more time off the job that I'd like to share. First I left the belts tight and I put a box end wrench on the fan clutch nuts and then took a length of 2X4 and bounced it on the end of the wrench to break the nuts loose. To index the pulley around I just slowly put pressure on the end of the wrench while on a tight nut allowing the belt to slip until it got into a good position for bouncing the 2X4 on the wrench. I had my wife hold a long pry bar between the water pump pulley and the crank pulley to counteract the tension of the belts and help ensure the water pump pulley didn't slide off the water pump studs while I spun the nuts off and pulled the fan and clutch out. I was then able to put the new fan clutch on and tighten the nuts against the belt friction. You just have to be sure that the center hole in the pulley is properly piloted on the snout of the water pump while tightening up the nuts. This is done with a little adjusting of pry bar to move the pulley around to ensure its properly seated. Whole job was done in about 30 minutes. Keep the Cruiser content coming.
Good job getting it done and thanks for the time saving tips.
I know how to do this already as I’m a certified UA-cam mechanic myself, but I enjoy seeing how others do it.
Hey, I'm certified too. Where did you go to UA-cam Auto Tech School?
Where were you a week ago! :) I watched your video on the 4runner to do this. Nearly identical and on my '97 FZJ80 it was easy. The key is loosening the alternator and for the time saved, pulled the battery to get easy access. In my case I opted to put a new fan in as well ... after 25 years why not! Also, I torqued and paint-marked each bolt to check on them in the future! GOOD STUFF @timmythetoolman!!!
Yeah, removing the battery box would have helped for access to the alternator bolts. Since Rey had a jumble of accessory wires running to the battery, I didn't want to mess with it. Thanks for the comment.
Nice work Timmy! What up FJ Rey! 👋
Thanks Stevo!
Excellent video! Thanks!!
Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome!
Gracious that's a clean 80 engine. Along with my several 100 series, I have one '96 80 series with 503k miles....but engine is not near that clean.
Hey Rich, Rey recently got a rebuilt engine installed at Yota1 Performance in Riverbank near Modesto. That's why his engine is pretty much spotless.
Great video! If you need them, you can find torque specs for specific bolt size and grade in a table form. Also, it's useful to have a radiator fin comb in the off chance you bend the fins. Not critical, just nice to have.
Glad you like the video. Yeah, I know about the bolt charts for suggested torque values. I've never used them though, because when I don't have a torque value, I just go by feel using the Gudentite spec. A radiator fin comb? I've never heard of one. Got a link to one you like?
@@TimmyTheToolman They are all pretty much the same. The advantage of plastic is it doesn't scratch so probably better for painted radiators.
@@ian408 I think I'm going to look it up and buy one. Thanks for the tool suggestion.
Sweet! Love the intro song too. ❤
You made Sean's day.
Thanks!
@@wooljockey Thanks for the donation.
💪🏼👌🏻👌🏻
зачем менять всю вискомуфту ? просто поменяй в ней силиконовую жидкость и все
So you ask why not just replace the fluid inside the old fan clutch. Well, the modification Redline does is not just changing the fluid. They alter the spring as well. We don't know how they're doing this and that's why we bought from them. The reason for this job wasn't to fix a failing fan clutch. It was to replace the OEM one with a modified one. Make sense?