Universal Joints & Propeller Shafts - Toyota Landcruiser
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- In this video we replace the universal joints on the front and rear propeller/tail shafts of an 80 Series Landcruiser (all models and years), showing several different methods and tips & tricks, including discussing symptoms of a bad universal joint.
Jump to Section:
00:00 Introduction
00:29 Tools and Parts
02:19 Symptoms of a bad universal joint
04:02 Determining universal joint part numbers required
04:52 Removing the propeller shaft
06:58 80 Series propeller shaft phasing explained
08:07 Removing circlips (snap rings)
08:56 Universal joint removal method 1 - socket and hammer
10:28 Universal joint removal method 2 - ball/u-joint press tool
11:29 Universal joint removal tip - wood block and hole saw
13:53 Universal joint removal tip - bench vise
14:59 Removing stuck universal joint bearing cap (outer race)
15:37 Cleaning and de-burring propeller shaft and flanges
19:08 Alignment of new universal joints
20:18 Universal joint install method 1 - hammer
22:29 Installing new circlips (snap rings)
24:27 Installing new grease fitting (zerk)
24:48 Universal joint install method 2 - ball/u-joint press
25:16 Greasing the new universal joints and propeller shaft slip yoke
26:32 Reinstalling the propeller shaft and torqueing up bolts and studs
29:22 Outro and Conclusion
Universal joint Toyota genuine part numbers - refer 04:02 section of video:
Grease zerk/nipple location shown in brackets after each part number option.
Front uni joints (29mm cap), x2 required - 04371-35031 (outer cap) OR 04371-35050 (body centre)
Rear uni joints Type ‘A’ (29mm cap), x2 required - same as for front uni joints
Rear uni joints Type ‘B’ (32mm cap), x2 required - 04371-36030 (body centre) OR 04371-60210 (body centre)
The new universal joints shown are from Terrain Tamer - www.terraintamer.com/4wd-prod...
Consumables:
Lithium base wheel bearing grease - 450g / 1lb cartridge
(Nulon Extreme Performance L80 Grease shown)
WD-40 or similar penetrating fluid
Paint marker or similar
Brake and parts cleaner
Paper towels or rags
Tools:
Metric socket set - 7 and 14mm required
Socket wrenches and extensions to suit above sockets
1/2 in (F) to 3/8 in (M) socket adapter recommended (as shown)
Torque wrench
14mm ring spanner
Round file
Flat file
Old toothbrush
Flat head screwdriver
Locking pliers
Hammer
Impact sockets - approx. 12, 17 and 21mm (as shown)
Grease gun
2x wood blocks
1/2 inch brass bar/drift or similar (recommended)
2x clamps or bench vise
U-joint / ball joint press tool (optional, as shown)
32mm and 35mm hole saws with drill (optional, as shown)
Toyota Genuine Part numbers below can also be replaced if required:
Front Propeller Shaft Bolt (differential end) - 90105-10085 x4
Front Propeller Shaft Washer (differential end) - 90560-10H00* x4
Front Propeller Shaft Nut (differential end) - 90179-10059 x4
Front Propeller Shaft Washer (transfer case end) - 90560-10H00*
Front Propeller Shaft Nut (transfer case end) - 90179-10059 x4
* substitute for 90204-10002
Rear Propeller Shaft Bolt (differential end) - 90105-11013 x4
Rear Propeller Shaft Washer (differential end) - 90201-11013 x4
Rear Propeller Shaft Nut (differential end) - 90179-11005 x4
Rear Propeller Shaft Washer (transfer case end) - 90201-11013 x4
Rear Propeller Shaft Nut (transfer case end) - 90179-11005 x4
Recommended Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
Safety glasses
Ear plugs or earmuffs
Gloves
All genuine part numbers were found by entering vehicle identification number (VIN) into PartsOuq:
partsouq.com/
Disclaimer: At 2nd Gear Low, we love working on cars, but we are not trained mechanics. We like completing maintenance and modifications to all sorts of cars and filming it for your entertainment, but we can’t promise that you won’t harm yourself, someone else, your car or your warranty by trying this. Talk to a qualified mechanic if you are ever unsure about any part of a job that you choose to try yourself.
The Guys like this who voluntarily produce Videos of this quality must go largely unrewarded. Can't thank you enough mate.
Thanks for your comment, we really appreciate the support!
At first I was like, "A 30 minute video on U-joints? this is going to be a lot of unnecessary talking," but everything you shared, tips, measurement checks, markings, etc. was very very helpful. Thanks for the details that I would have easily overlooked. Now, time to measure what sizes I need to be sure.
Thanks William, we appreciate you watching and it's great to hear you found the info in the video was useful
Jesus. Wish I'd had this advice when I did the front shaft. Rear one is going to be easy with this tutorial. Thank you very much
You're welcome Aaron, best of luck! Be sure to check out our other 80 series videos
@@2ndGearLow I found the press easier than beating the crap out of it with a hammer. I mostly put the press in the vice and held the part by hand for better control
Can I just say I’m five minutes into this video and I’ve already subbed and I will always like and support your videos you are a Deadset gem m8 ty
Thanks so much mate! Really appreciate it
Excellent vid! About to do my uni's and this give a good ,clear indication on what needs to be done . Thanks
Thanks mate! Glad to hear our video helped
Fantastic, thorough, beautifully explained. Well done 👍
Thanks again Ken
Man, great video. Love all the detail in the video and description.
Thanks Dustin, glad it helped!
Awesome video! was gonna pay to get a shop to do my u joints for me but this has given me the confidence to do it myself
Thanks for the feedback Cooper!
I've watched many videos on DIY mechanics but this was the best yet. I still like to have a go at doing the work myself and I would confidently follow your videos, knowing that you have covered all scenarios. I have got a bit slack lately and have been getting some work done by professional mechanics and have been left less than impressed with some of the unprofessional outcomes. Well done!
Thanks Phill, glad to hear you enjoyed it and we really appreciate your comment!
Great presentation. Really wish I had found this before pulling things off without marking them.
Sadly I watched a different UA-cam which did not seem to explain or mention critical points.
Thanks John, we're glad you enjoyed and really appreciate your feedback
This is an excellent video. Thank you very much for all the effort that went into making it!
Thanks for watching, much appreciated!
Outstanding videos! These are the best out there. Thanks!
Thanks Kurt, we really appreciate that!
Fantastic video, super helpful ! Thank you !! 👍
Thanks Glendram! Glad to hear you found it useful
Great information, clear and precise.
Thanks Chuck, much appreciated
Another fantastic one which has made me think I could probably give it a go.
Thanks Padma, we hope it goes well!
Excellent explanation and clear sounds and understanding.
Thanks for the feedback Luis!
Yea dude phenomenal video, thanks for taking the time
Thanks Wildside, we greatly appreciate your feedback
Awesome demonstration!
Thanks for watching!
Great vid mate!
Thanks for the feedback Justin, glad you liked it!
This is amazing!! Thank you so much for doing this!
Thanks Kevin, we really appreciate your comment, and no problem at all!
@@2ndGearLow I really cant thank you enough, this will hopefully solve my clunk issue when I put it in gear. I just finished gathering the parts for the front rebuild and now this will be next!! Please keep up the awesome videos!
Glad to hear the videos are helping you out Kevin, that's a big part of our goal!
Good luck with the unis, chasing noises like that clunk can be a frustrating process so here's hoping that's the culprit
@@2ndGearLow I have a clunk but only when shifting from park to reverse or park to drive. Could replacing these fix this?
@@kevinhill5531 Yes, this could be the cause of that clunk. Can't be sure until you've replaced the unis, but it would be a good place go start
Your videos are such a huge help. Thank you so much.
Thanks Wes, we really appreciate your feedback!
Awesome video thanks heaps mate!
Thanks for the feedback Xavier!
Great job!
Thank you!
Legend! Just did my font uni watching this vid 👌🏻
Thanks Demi, we're glad to hear it helped!
Good stuff mate!
Thank you very much!
Thank you for the video, very helpful!
Thanks Ghostrider, we're glad you found it useful!
Very helpful mate
Thanks Pete, glad you found it useful
VERY WELL DONE 👏
GREAT JOB 👍 👌
Thanks for watching!
Merci beaucoup cher ami . You are a very great man.
Thank you for watching!
you guys rock !!! thank you so much
Thanks Antoine! We're glad you liked it
Cheers man
Thanks for watching Eric
👍👍very nice , thanks for info
Thanks a lot Mark!
If I were to just replace the entire driveshaft assembly with new toyota assemblies, would I just put them back in exactly the same orientation as the old ones and be good to go?
Would enjoy a no nonsense approach on giving the power steering a birthday, ( fluid flush-reservoir clean out- any mods?) cheers fella
Hi Tony, thanks for the suggestion, we'll look into some power steering maintenance in future
Thanks for the great video. My issue is I bought the car second hand and both the front and rear shafts are out of phase. Also, the front shaft has been switched (front to back) to avoid hitting the sway bar (as you said). I’ve added the sway bar drop links so far.
How do you suggest I proceed with the regards to the shafts being out of phase?
Thanks for watching Brett, and sorry to hear about that unfortunate situation. It would be hard to recommend anything other than taking it to a professional driveline mechanic, as it sounds like the shafts have been removed and put back together in the wrong orientation previously, and it will be hard to figure out the correct orientations to align with where the balancing weights were first installed on each shaft. Are they at a seemingly random angle, or a multiple of 90-degrees? For the slip yoke relative to the fixed end, of each shaft
@@2ndGearLow they are at all different angles.
I have got a problem because of I fired the rear prouprl shaft as a guess and got noise in beer box or universal joint attaching with the beer box side first how can I Aline properly
What can be done if the end cap for the slip yoke has popped out, on the transfer case end under the uni? This is one of my issues atm
Hi David, apologies but I'm struggling to picture where this end cap is. Is that a part of the slip yoke itself (end of tube section)?
does the front shaft on an 80 series have two different ujoints? what are the part numbers of both?
Hi Dani, the front has one size only (29mm cap), however the joints are available with the grease zerk on either the body centre of the joint or on the end of one of the four bearing caps. This comes down to personal preference but either part number will work at both ends of the front shaft.
Uni with 29mm cap and grease zerk on body centre of the uni joint - 04371-35050
Uni with 29mm cap and grease zerk on outer cap - 04371-35031
Hope that clears it up!
The only thing I would do that u didnt do is regrease my slip yoke on the the gear box and diff so i dont have the problem of it pushing out to much, other wise found it very good information that u supplied great vid
Thanks Stevo, appreciate your feedback
Hi , on my HDJ80 (1HD-T engine) 1994 , the slip Yoke side of the front Propeller shaft fits on the Transfert Case or on the front Axle Diff ?
Hi David, it's a bit hard to get a firm answer on this but in our 1996 repair manual it's depicted with the front prop shaft having the slip joint at the front differential end.
Hi , many thanks for your feedback , same on my Repair Manual but I had doubt due to the bad quality of the picture . I''m crazy about 80 series since 20 years but hard to find expert in France ... that's why I'm fan of your website and in general of all Australian website 4WD
.
You replied few months ago to Chris Eves, concerning paint marks, that "Rotating the flange yokes relative to the diff/transfer ends may not have much impact" ... and I think so too because when replacing the diff bearings you lose by consequence the original alignment ...
Oh you save the runout bit for the end after I do all of the work... lmao
Haha yes sorry about that, best to check it but we're aware lots of people will just be changing the uni joints
Soo… totally unrelated question but what if someone was stupid enough to separate the drive shaft without marking the alignment?
Putting the shaft back together without markings will be a 50/50 guess, as you may be 180 degrees out from what it was originally while still having the slip yoke in the correct phase alignment relative to the fixed end of the shaft. I.e. there are two ways for it to go together that will look in phase, but only one of them will have the balancing weights in the right position. Balancing issues can cause vibration that can wear out the transfer output seal or diff pinion seal at each end of the shaft, so best to keep it as a hypothetical if you can, but if this happens and you want to be sure you could take it to a professional driveline mechanic to check the balance of the shaft.
Find a drive shaft shop and have it balanced
Fuckn top notch video mate. Very professional, all the right info.... and not all the extra bullshit chit chat.
Just got yourself a new sub mate......cheers 👍🏾🖤💛❤
Thanks Jay! Glad you enjoyed it and we really appreciate you subbing
Just do the entire driveline. You take care of it, it takes care of you with periodic lubricant replacement and grease.
Agree and that's what we do too. We have videos explaining the differential and transfer case fluid changes. Thanks for the comment!
hypothetically, what would happen if your paint marks wore off and the tailshaft was put back in differently?
Hi Chris, thanks for your good question. The answer depends greatly on what position it's put back in. Even without any paint marks, you'd be able to get the phasing correct by aligning the slip yoke correctly in relation to the fixed end of the tailshaft (e.g. if the slip yoke was pulled out fully). Rotating the flange yokes relative to the diff/transfer ends may not have much impact. Returning the shaft phasing without markings will be a 50/50 guess, as you may be 180 degrees out from what it was originally while still having the slip yoke in phase correctly aligned relative to the fixed end of the shaft, which could result in balancing issues causing vibration that can wear out the transfer output seal or diff pinion seal at each end of the shaft. Best to keep it as a hypothetical to be safe though!
Thanks for the great video. My issue is I bought the car second hand and both the front and rear shafts are out of phase. Also, the front shaft has been switched (front to back) to avoid hitting the sway bar (as you said). I’ve added the sway bar drop links so far.
How do you suggest I proceed with the regards to the shafts being out of phase?
👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
I just wish I had watched this before taking the propeller shafts off! Bit late now but didn’t mark them so they could go back in the same position. Oops
Thanks for watching mate. Unfortunately that's the way it goes sometimes, but you'll know for next time!
16:51 Noice!
Thanks for watching
👍👍👌👌👌❤❤
how about changing the front suspension on a Hilux for your next vid? I know a viewer that would help out aha
Haha thanks for the suggestion George, maybe some Hilux content on the cards in future 😉
Another method if it gets stuck is carefully cut it out with a grinder😁
Not ideal or recommended but desparate times call for desperate measures.. just don't damage the prop shaft or yourself!
8
Man. Uni joint changes are a lot simpler with the saddle type yokes
Thanks for watching Jax! What other types have you come across in your vehicles?
Great video, but I would use my copper hammer rather than that ball peen