At first I was like, "A 30 minute video on U-joints? this is going to be a lot of unnecessary talking," but everything you shared, tips, measurement checks, markings, etc. was very very helpful. Thanks for the details that I would have easily overlooked. Now, time to measure what sizes I need to be sure.
@@2ndGearLow I found the press easier than beating the crap out of it with a hammer. I mostly put the press in the vice and held the part by hand for better control
I've watched many videos on DIY mechanics but this was the best yet. I still like to have a go at doing the work myself and I would confidently follow your videos, knowing that you have covered all scenarios. I have got a bit slack lately and have been getting some work done by professional mechanics and have been left less than impressed with some of the unprofessional outcomes. Well done!
Great presentation. Really wish I had found this before pulling things off without marking them. Sadly I watched a different UA-cam which did not seem to explain or mention critical points.
@@2ndGearLow I really cant thank you enough, this will hopefully solve my clunk issue when I put it in gear. I just finished gathering the parts for the front rebuild and now this will be next!! Please keep up the awesome videos!
Glad to hear the videos are helping you out Kevin, that's a big part of our goal! Good luck with the unis, chasing noises like that clunk can be a frustrating process so here's hoping that's the culprit
Damn! Those Uni joints are such a pain, I spent 8 hours to replace just the rear unis because they were siezed and I didn’t have all the right tools. All the pain only to find out the unis wherent bad and it was my control arm bushes causing the diff the move and bind up the uni joints. The fun of working in your own car !!!😂
Dropping this across a few videos, I have an '97 80 (1Hdft) and love your videos, they brilliantly explain the steps and give me the confidence to tackle alot of the jobs myself. So I am looking at getting some of the speciality tools, like a Torque wrench, but I see there are a variety of options, what is the best all round wrench torque range that I should look at buying? What's a good low number, 30-40Nm and what's a good high range 100-200Nm? Thank you Etienne
If I were to just replace the entire driveshaft assembly with new toyota assemblies, would I just put them back in exactly the same orientation as the old ones and be good to go?
The only thing I would do that u didnt do is regrease my slip yoke on the the gear box and diff so i dont have the problem of it pushing out to much, other wise found it very good information that u supplied great vid
I have got a problem because of I fired the rear prouprl shaft as a guess and got noise in beer box or universal joint attaching with the beer box side first how can I Aline properly
Hi David, it's a bit hard to get a firm answer on this but in our 1996 repair manual it's depicted with the front prop shaft having the slip joint at the front differential end.
Hi , many thanks for your feedback , same on my Repair Manual but I had doubt due to the bad quality of the picture . I''m crazy about 80 series since 20 years but hard to find expert in France ... that's why I'm fan of your website and in general of all Australian website 4WD .
You replied few months ago to Chris Eves, concerning paint marks, that "Rotating the flange yokes relative to the diff/transfer ends may not have much impact" ... and I think so too because when replacing the diff bearings you lose by consequence the original alignment ...
Thanks for the great video. My issue is I bought the car second hand and both the front and rear shafts are out of phase. Also, the front shaft has been switched (front to back) to avoid hitting the sway bar (as you said). I’ve added the sway bar drop links so far. How do you suggest I proceed with the regards to the shafts being out of phase?
Thanks for watching Brett, and sorry to hear about that unfortunate situation. It would be hard to recommend anything other than taking it to a professional driveline mechanic, as it sounds like the shafts have been removed and put back together in the wrong orientation previously, and it will be hard to figure out the correct orientations to align with where the balancing weights were first installed on each shaft. Are they at a seemingly random angle, or a multiple of 90-degrees? For the slip yoke relative to the fixed end, of each shaft
Hi Dani, the front has one size only (29mm cap), however the joints are available with the grease zerk on either the body centre of the joint or on the end of one of the four bearing caps. This comes down to personal preference but either part number will work at both ends of the front shaft. Uni with 29mm cap and grease zerk on body centre of the uni joint - 04371-35050 Uni with 29mm cap and grease zerk on outer cap - 04371-35031 Hope that clears it up!
Fuckn top notch video mate. Very professional, all the right info.... and not all the extra bullshit chit chat. Just got yourself a new sub mate......cheers 👍🏾🖤💛❤
Hi Chris, thanks for your good question. The answer depends greatly on what position it's put back in. Even without any paint marks, you'd be able to get the phasing correct by aligning the slip yoke correctly in relation to the fixed end of the tailshaft (e.g. if the slip yoke was pulled out fully). Rotating the flange yokes relative to the diff/transfer ends may not have much impact. Returning the shaft phasing without markings will be a 50/50 guess, as you may be 180 degrees out from what it was originally while still having the slip yoke in phase correctly aligned relative to the fixed end of the shaft, which could result in balancing issues causing vibration that can wear out the transfer output seal or diff pinion seal at each end of the shaft. Best to keep it as a hypothetical to be safe though!
Thanks for the great video. My issue is I bought the car second hand and both the front and rear shafts are out of phase. Also, the front shaft has been switched (front to back) to avoid hitting the sway bar (as you said). I’ve added the sway bar drop links so far. How do you suggest I proceed with the regards to the shafts being out of phase?
Putting the shaft back together without markings will be a 50/50 guess, as you may be 180 degrees out from what it was originally while still having the slip yoke in the correct phase alignment relative to the fixed end of the shaft. I.e. there are two ways for it to go together that will look in phase, but only one of them will have the balancing weights in the right position. Balancing issues can cause vibration that can wear out the transfer output seal or diff pinion seal at each end of the shaft, so best to keep it as a hypothetical if you can, but if this happens and you want to be sure you could take it to a professional driveline mechanic to check the balance of the shaft.
I just wish I had watched this before taking the propeller shafts off! Bit late now but didn’t mark them so they could go back in the same position. Oops
The Guys like this who voluntarily produce Videos of this quality must go largely unrewarded. Can't thank you enough mate.
Thanks for your comment, we really appreciate the support!
At first I was like, "A 30 minute video on U-joints? this is going to be a lot of unnecessary talking," but everything you shared, tips, measurement checks, markings, etc. was very very helpful. Thanks for the details that I would have easily overlooked. Now, time to measure what sizes I need to be sure.
Thanks William, we appreciate you watching and it's great to hear you found the info in the video was useful
Jesus. Wish I'd had this advice when I did the front shaft. Rear one is going to be easy with this tutorial. Thank you very much
You're welcome Aaron, best of luck! Be sure to check out our other 80 series videos
@@2ndGearLow I found the press easier than beating the crap out of it with a hammer. I mostly put the press in the vice and held the part by hand for better control
Awesome video! was gonna pay to get a shop to do my u joints for me but this has given me the confidence to do it myself
Thanks for the feedback Cooper!
Same!!!!
Can I just say I’m five minutes into this video and I’ve already subbed and I will always like and support your videos you are a Deadset gem m8 ty
Thanks so much mate! Really appreciate it
I've watched many videos on DIY mechanics but this was the best yet. I still like to have a go at doing the work myself and I would confidently follow your videos, knowing that you have covered all scenarios. I have got a bit slack lately and have been getting some work done by professional mechanics and have been left less than impressed with some of the unprofessional outcomes. Well done!
Thanks Phill, glad to hear you enjoyed it and we really appreciate your comment!
Man, great video. Love all the detail in the video and description.
Thanks Dustin, glad it helped!
Always so clear and thorough. Absolute legend!
Thank you mate! We appreciate you watching and the kind feedback
Great presentation. Really wish I had found this before pulling things off without marking them.
Sadly I watched a different UA-cam which did not seem to explain or mention critical points.
Thanks John, we're glad you enjoyed and really appreciate your feedback
Outstanding videos! These are the best out there. Thanks!
Thanks Kurt, we really appreciate that!
Another fantastic one which has made me think I could probably give it a go.
Thanks Padma, we hope it goes well!
Fantastic, thorough, beautifully explained. Well done 👍
Thanks again Ken
Excellent explanation and clear sounds and understanding.
Thanks for the feedback Luis!
Excellent vid! About to do my uni's and this give a good ,clear indication on what needs to be done . Thanks
Thanks mate! Glad to hear our video helped
Great vid mate!
Thanks for the feedback Justin, glad you liked it!
Great information, clear and precise.
Thanks Chuck, much appreciated
Fantastic video, super helpful ! Thank you !! 👍
Thanks Glendram! Glad to hear you found it useful
This is an excellent video. Thank you very much for all the effort that went into making it!
Thanks for watching, much appreciated!
Awesome video thanks heaps mate!
Thanks for the feedback Xavier!
Your videos are such a huge help. Thank you so much.
Thanks Wes, we really appreciate your feedback!
Legend! Just did my font uni watching this vid 👌🏻
Thanks Demi, we're glad to hear it helped!
This is amazing!! Thank you so much for doing this!
Thanks Kevin, we really appreciate your comment, and no problem at all!
@@2ndGearLow I really cant thank you enough, this will hopefully solve my clunk issue when I put it in gear. I just finished gathering the parts for the front rebuild and now this will be next!! Please keep up the awesome videos!
Glad to hear the videos are helping you out Kevin, that's a big part of our goal!
Good luck with the unis, chasing noises like that clunk can be a frustrating process so here's hoping that's the culprit
@@2ndGearLow I have a clunk but only when shifting from park to reverse or park to drive. Could replacing these fix this?
@@kevinhill5531 Yes, this could be the cause of that clunk. Can't be sure until you've replaced the unis, but it would be a good place go start
Yea dude phenomenal video, thanks for taking the time
Thanks Wildside, we greatly appreciate your feedback
Awesome demonstration!
Thanks for watching!
VERY WELL DONE 👏
GREAT JOB 👍 👌
Thanks for watching!
Great job!
Thank you!
Would enjoy a no nonsense approach on giving the power steering a birthday, ( fluid flush-reservoir clean out- any mods?) cheers fella
Hi Tony, thanks for the suggestion, we'll look into some power steering maintenance in future
Merci beaucoup cher ami . You are a very great man.
Thank you for watching!
Great vid, I'm gonna give it a go! Do you not need to use Loctite on the nuts and bolts etc?
Thank you for the video, very helpful!
Thanks Ghostrider, we're glad you found it useful!
Damn! Those Uni joints are such a pain, I spent 8 hours to replace just the rear unis because they were siezed and I didn’t have all the right tools. All the pain only to find out the unis wherent bad and it was my control arm bushes causing the diff the move and bind up the uni joints. The fun of working in your own car !!!😂
Dropping this across a few videos, I have an '97 80 (1Hdft) and love your videos, they brilliantly explain the steps and give me the confidence to tackle alot of the jobs myself.
So I am looking at getting some of the speciality tools, like a Torque wrench, but I see there are a variety of options, what is the best all round wrench torque range that I should look at buying? What's a good low number, 30-40Nm and what's a good high range 100-200Nm?
Thank you Etienne
Good stuff mate!
Thank you very much!
Very helpful mate
Thanks Pete, glad you found it useful
If I were to just replace the entire driveshaft assembly with new toyota assemblies, would I just put them back in exactly the same orientation as the old ones and be good to go?
you guys rock !!! thank you so much
Thanks Antoine! We're glad you liked it
👍👍very nice , thanks for info
Thanks a lot Mark!
Oh you save the runout bit for the end after I do all of the work... lmao
Haha yes sorry about that, best to check it but we're aware lots of people will just be changing the uni joints
The only thing I would do that u didnt do is regrease my slip yoke on the the gear box and diff so i dont have the problem of it pushing out to much, other wise found it very good information that u supplied great vid
Thanks Stevo, appreciate your feedback
Cheers man
Thanks for watching Eric
I have got a problem because of I fired the rear prouprl shaft as a guess and got noise in beer box or universal joint attaching with the beer box side first how can I Aline properly
Hi , on my HDJ80 (1HD-T engine) 1994 , the slip Yoke side of the front Propeller shaft fits on the Transfert Case or on the front Axle Diff ?
Hi David, it's a bit hard to get a firm answer on this but in our 1996 repair manual it's depicted with the front prop shaft having the slip joint at the front differential end.
Hi , many thanks for your feedback , same on my Repair Manual but I had doubt due to the bad quality of the picture . I''m crazy about 80 series since 20 years but hard to find expert in France ... that's why I'm fan of your website and in general of all Australian website 4WD
.
You replied few months ago to Chris Eves, concerning paint marks, that "Rotating the flange yokes relative to the diff/transfer ends may not have much impact" ... and I think so too because when replacing the diff bearings you lose by consequence the original alignment ...
Thanks for the great video. My issue is I bought the car second hand and both the front and rear shafts are out of phase. Also, the front shaft has been switched (front to back) to avoid hitting the sway bar (as you said). I’ve added the sway bar drop links so far.
How do you suggest I proceed with the regards to the shafts being out of phase?
Thanks for watching Brett, and sorry to hear about that unfortunate situation. It would be hard to recommend anything other than taking it to a professional driveline mechanic, as it sounds like the shafts have been removed and put back together in the wrong orientation previously, and it will be hard to figure out the correct orientations to align with where the balancing weights were first installed on each shaft. Are they at a seemingly random angle, or a multiple of 90-degrees? For the slip yoke relative to the fixed end, of each shaft
@@2ndGearLow they are at all different angles.
does the front shaft on an 80 series have two different ujoints? what are the part numbers of both?
Hi Dani, the front has one size only (29mm cap), however the joints are available with the grease zerk on either the body centre of the joint or on the end of one of the four bearing caps. This comes down to personal preference but either part number will work at both ends of the front shaft.
Uni with 29mm cap and grease zerk on body centre of the uni joint - 04371-35050
Uni with 29mm cap and grease zerk on outer cap - 04371-35031
Hope that clears it up!
What can be done if the end cap for the slip yoke has popped out, on the transfer case end under the uni? This is one of my issues atm
Hi David, apologies but I'm struggling to picture where this end cap is. Is that a part of the slip yoke itself (end of tube section)?
Just do the entire driveline. You take care of it, it takes care of you with periodic lubricant replacement and grease.
Agree and that's what we do too. We have videos explaining the differential and transfer case fluid changes. Thanks for the comment!
Fuckn top notch video mate. Very professional, all the right info.... and not all the extra bullshit chit chat.
Just got yourself a new sub mate......cheers 👍🏾🖤💛❤
Thanks Jay! Glad you enjoyed it and we really appreciate you subbing
hypothetically, what would happen if your paint marks wore off and the tailshaft was put back in differently?
Hi Chris, thanks for your good question. The answer depends greatly on what position it's put back in. Even without any paint marks, you'd be able to get the phasing correct by aligning the slip yoke correctly in relation to the fixed end of the tailshaft (e.g. if the slip yoke was pulled out fully). Rotating the flange yokes relative to the diff/transfer ends may not have much impact. Returning the shaft phasing without markings will be a 50/50 guess, as you may be 180 degrees out from what it was originally while still having the slip yoke in phase correctly aligned relative to the fixed end of the shaft, which could result in balancing issues causing vibration that can wear out the transfer output seal or diff pinion seal at each end of the shaft. Best to keep it as a hypothetical to be safe though!
Thanks for the great video. My issue is I bought the car second hand and both the front and rear shafts are out of phase. Also, the front shaft has been switched (front to back) to avoid hitting the sway bar (as you said). I’ve added the sway bar drop links so far.
How do you suggest I proceed with the regards to the shafts being out of phase?
👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Soo… totally unrelated question but what if someone was stupid enough to separate the drive shaft without marking the alignment?
Putting the shaft back together without markings will be a 50/50 guess, as you may be 180 degrees out from what it was originally while still having the slip yoke in the correct phase alignment relative to the fixed end of the shaft. I.e. there are two ways for it to go together that will look in phase, but only one of them will have the balancing weights in the right position. Balancing issues can cause vibration that can wear out the transfer output seal or diff pinion seal at each end of the shaft, so best to keep it as a hypothetical if you can, but if this happens and you want to be sure you could take it to a professional driveline mechanic to check the balance of the shaft.
Find a drive shaft shop and have it balanced
Another method if it gets stuck is carefully cut it out with a grinder😁
Not ideal or recommended but desparate times call for desperate measures.. just don't damage the prop shaft or yourself!
I just wish I had watched this before taking the propeller shafts off! Bit late now but didn’t mark them so they could go back in the same position. Oops
Thanks for watching mate. Unfortunately that's the way it goes sometimes, but you'll know for next time!
how about changing the front suspension on a Hilux for your next vid? I know a viewer that would help out aha
Haha thanks for the suggestion George, maybe some Hilux content on the cards in future 😉
Man. Uni joint changes are a lot simpler with the saddle type yokes
Thanks for watching Jax! What other types have you come across in your vehicles?
16:51 Noice!
Thanks for watching
👍👍👌👌👌❤❤
Great video, but I would use my copper hammer rather than that ball peen
8