You've convinced me to finally pull the 302 in my F150... the oil pressure disappears once it warms up so I figure it's about time to refurbish the engine lol. Thank you!
@@vasilibrown Looking forward to it! Gotta hit up harbor freight for an engine stand and jack haha, finally will be completing the garage accoutrements…
Awesome video! I'm currently rebuilding my 93F150 but I'm using an older 86 model 302 bc it was supposed to be in good running order B4 pulled from previous owners van. So was basically just gonna swap external components, but the deeper I dig in I've finally decided to go all in and completely overhaul it with new rings, seals, gaskets ect. And this is the perfect video for me to refer to on what I need to do and make sure I'm doing things right. Appreciate you sharing keep up the good work 👍💯
@@bryanmccollum666be careful friend and make sure the balance is the same, if you’re using the existing truck flywheel. Ford changed in the 80’s I think from 28 ounce to 50 ounce.
I have always been handy and worked on my own vehicles. I’ve jumped into the deep end and restoring my dream car. A 70 Mustang Fastback going to a 302 Boss Clone. I have been nervous as hell to buy a block and build it with my choice of parts. Thanks to you I now feel FAR more confident! You give off “I know enough to get ‘er done vibes!” More knowledge than the average man but not a professional lol. I feel that I’m in the same boat! Thanks brother!
Thank you for the kind comment brother! We onow just enough to be dangerous lol. Seems like alot of people think people went to a machine shop everytime they had to rebuild their engine back in the 60’s and 70’s.
I can relate to the dropped piston/rod. It seems like no matter how much I try to be careful and prepare for a flawless performance...something has to hit the floor or go flying across the garage with that last little tap. lol
I seen a builder that forgot to film all of the pistons being installed as he only recorded the first piston installation. His solution was for the viewer to go back and watch him installing the first piston seven additional times.
The old re-ring job (Craigslist Rebuild). I would lap the valve seats as well as install new valve stem seals. It would usually net you about 50K miles even on old clapped out engines.
289/302 engines can easily add double the horse power from 200/210HP up to 350/400 HP N/A & Carbed. on a stock botttom end, thinner head gasket & a Cam with new Heads.
Thats all I need on this car. Not trying to get into any power adders. If I had more time, I would try and do some home porting on these heads. But as I type this it’s only 6 days until the event I want to go to
Love the video. Subscribed. I’m looking to do the same for my 400 that’s going in my 79 F150. I just watched the video of yours running also. Sounds good! Keep up the awesome content!
It appears that you honed those cylinders DRY.. jeez man.. a little diesel, in a squirt bottle would have been MUCH better.. and BRASS brushes are FAR superior.. and 800 grit paper.. 400 is too course.. Just my opinions and observations.. Good luck
I’ll let you know! I’ve been so busy with family and other projects this one went on the back burner. My race season got cancelled so it’s just sitting in the engine bay waiting for exhaust and fitech to go back on
I bought a 84 306 Ross xl400 pistons an holman moody cam an the 351 heads the cam did not take its solid flat tapped so since I did not have any luck with the solid flat tapped I'm doing a full rebuild on my 94 roller with the aluminum heads I'd like to sale the 69 model heads just to get some of my money back out of that motor if interested let me know thanks
Bahahaha!!! Did u say, "factory specs are thou & a half or sixteen tenths"? If u dont know let me put in numbers for you. Thou & a half=.0015. Sixteen tenths= .0016. Maybey u meant to say it like that but it sounded funny to me. Cus its the same thing. Or almost the same.
@@vasilibrown usually there is a tolerance given for factory specs. I was expecting u to give both ends of the tolerance. Example for my 390 would be on the rod bearing clearance is .0008 to .0015. Eight tenths of a thou to a thou & a half. I guess I was expecting that but u basicly gave the same measurement, u simply said it in different terms. It just struck me as funny. U made a good video. Im not tryin to laugh at u, not in a bad way. Henry Ford had a good one when he said "you can get a model T in any color u want as long as it's black".
By the way, I would never put a 390 together with .0008 to .0015 clearance on the rod bearings! If u look up any high perf engine like say a 302 Boss, you will see a high perf engine needs more clearance! The last 390 I put together I had .0025 on the rods. Still running strong today.
@@jesseduke694 ahhhhhhhhh I gotcha now I get it😂. Im glad you explained it and I definitely did not take it as an insult. Thanks for enjoying the vid brother!!!
I bought an old 302 block, crank, and pistons. I do all of my own mechanic work but have never built an engine. You've given me the confidence to tackle it myself!
Dude you shouldn't be to touch a tool... Also you should go and read the dictionary what the definition of plagiarism is with the material that you're stealing from vice grip garage. So go back to video games and leave the real work to the real mechanics
depending on the year, the HO or Mustang (found in LSC Lincolns) will have forged pistons and a 351W firing order. others are cast pistons and the old 302 firing order.
@@vasilibrown na 302 is way superior in many racing classes. Take the same 305 Chevy class When done the 302 makes identical power but the key is it weighs significantly less. Makes it a far better choice. And it costs near identical. 🤷🏻♂️ Chevy is far inferior in this department. Our mod weighs 125 pounds less in n the front. ……. Because it’s a 302. Not even arguable. Ford 302 is the best racing choice in its class by a good margin.
@@vasilibrown in our class they had to to ban gt40 heads as a 351 with gt40 heads was not only cheap or was winning races so the Chevy guys wouldn’t tolerate such a thing. Imagine banning something because it works and is cheap. In an economy class car.
@somedude2433 I'm a ford guy but I will say, the gt40 head is pretty much better than any of the previous windsor oem heads, but it is not in the same league as chevys vortec heads. Chevy vortec heads are the best small chevy oem head they have. They still have there flaws, but they perform better than the camel hump & any other chevy heads. And they perform better than fords gt40 heads. That being said, the gt40 head being the best windsor head & chevy vortec being the best chevy head, the gt40 is not fords best small block heads. The clevland heads are the clear best small block oem heads. The only thing that matches them would be the new LS heads. It took 50yrs for any company to match what the clevland was capable of!
@@josebanderas2078 King CR804XPN XP Rod Bearings, King MB 529XP Main Bearing, Sealed Power E-458K Piston Ring Set. You can go cheaper on the bearings but this is going to see road racing so built accordingly.
You've convinced me to finally pull the 302 in my F150... the oil pressure disappears once it warms up so I figure it's about time to refurbish the engine lol. Thank you!
Glad I could help!! There will be a video soon of this engine running, sounds great!!
@@vasilibrown Looking forward to it! Gotta hit up harbor freight for an engine stand and jack haha, finally will be completing the garage accoutrements…
Awesome video! I'm currently rebuilding my 93F150 but I'm using an older 86 model 302 bc it was supposed to be in good running order B4 pulled from previous owners van. So was basically just gonna swap external components, but the deeper I dig in I've finally decided to go all in and completely overhaul it with new rings, seals, gaskets ect. And this is the perfect video for me to refer to on what I need to do and make sure I'm doing things right. Appreciate you sharing keep up the good work 👍💯
My 1990 f150 does the same. Like 5psi when warm. I want to eventually pull the engine and rebuild it. Good luck.
@@bryanmccollum666be careful friend and make sure the balance is the same, if you’re using the existing truck flywheel. Ford changed in the 80’s I think from 28 ounce to 50 ounce.
That was fun man! Like your style. Just have fun and do it! Sometimes we over think things.
Preciate you man! uploading a video now of it running
Great! Went looking on your channel to hear it. Will be on the lookout!
@@TheRaulr151 Will be up today 12/14/23 at 6:30pm est
I have always been handy and worked on my own vehicles. I’ve jumped into the deep end and restoring my dream car. A 70 Mustang Fastback going to a 302 Boss Clone. I have been nervous as hell to buy a block and build it with my choice of parts. Thanks to you I now feel FAR more confident! You give off “I know enough to get ‘er done vibes!” More knowledge than the average man but not a professional lol. I feel that I’m in the same boat! Thanks brother!
Thank you for the kind comment brother! We onow just enough to be dangerous lol. Seems like alot of people think people went to a machine shop everytime they had to rebuild their engine back in the 60’s and 70’s.
I can relate to the dropped piston/rod. It seems like no matter how much I try to be careful and prepare for a flawless performance...something has to hit the floor or go flying across the garage with that last little tap. lol
Never fails haha!
I seen a builder that forgot to film all of the pistons being installed as he only recorded the first piston installation. His solution was for the viewer to go back and watch him installing the first piston seven additional times.
Hahaha I like that
As a kid did the dingle ball and overhaul on at least half a dozen smb Ford's. They went for many more miles. Shade tree style.
That’s what I’m talkin’ ‘bout brother!
The old re-ring job (Craigslist Rebuild). I would lap the valve seats as well as install new valve stem seals. It would usually net you about 50K miles even on old clapped out engines.
289/302 engines can easily add double the horse power from 200/210HP up to 350/400 HP N/A & Carbed. on a stock botttom end, thinner head gasket & a Cam with new Heads.
Thats all I need on this car. Not trying to get into any power adders. If I had more time, I would try and do some home porting on these heads. But as I type this it’s only 6 days until the event I want to go to
As long as you happy with it 350 400 hp will make a runer of a engine I've got a 302 that ima start building hears soon
Get them Revs - great tag
Really enjoyed the video and your calibrated eyeballs
Looking forward to seeing it run 👍
Thank you! Check out the channel. I posted a first start video
I appreciate this video man, I just did a rebuild but something was wrong so I'm going to get back into it. I plan on using this as partial guide 🤙
You got it brother! Thanks for checking it out!
Amazing videos for newbies like me thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Good work mate, your having a good go at it, dont let up.
Thanks brother! appreciate the kind words and views!
Love the video. Subscribed. I’m looking to do the same for my 400 that’s going in my 79 F150. I just watched the video of yours running also. Sounds good! Keep up the awesome content!
Thanks for the sub! Hope all goes well with your build
It instills more confidence if you knew the history. If it ran before it should run after right?
Sure thing! Unfortunately didnt have that with this one. Just a core that looked good
Nice build 🏁
Thank! Appreciate the view and comment
Keep it clean clean pinky ring. 45% of al startup engine failures, especially budget builds is due to DIRT!
For sure! Check out the video of it running!
would this be a good engine to work on for a beginner ? this seems easy to follow and i would like to learn
Very easy. Lots and lots and lots of info on it and parts are relatively cheap. This was my first time rebuilding one
Hows it running?
Running great. Posted a video of it running, check it out!
I could tell it is his first time by the way he handled the Piston like he was picking up a stinky dog turd grab that connecting rod like you mean it
😂😂😂
It appears that you honed those cylinders DRY.. jeez man.. a little diesel, in a squirt bottle would have been MUCH better.. and BRASS brushes are FAR superior.. and 800 grit paper.. 400 is too course..
Just my opinions and observations.. Good luck
I actually used plenty of wd-40 while honing. Definitely won’t argue about brass brushes being better but the regular brushes get the job done
Nice video, did the cam really need a wrench to turn it or was that for added suspense? 😂
Unfortunately it did 😂. Just ignoring it and hoping for the best. Didnt feel bound up with everything together
About to dive into this myself. How did yours run?
I’ll let you know! I’ve been so busy with family and other projects this one went on the back burner. My race season got cancelled so it’s just sitting in the engine bay waiting for exhaust and fitech to go back on
I have an uncle Steve 🤣🤣
Ohhhhh man, dont tell him what I said lol
What kind of heads are you running
They're 1966 289 heads. Modern E7 heads would probably be just as good. GT40 heads would be a great upgrade
I've got a set of 69 model 351w heads ported all stainless valve job I'd like to sale I've bought new aluminum heads off Hynes brother
I bought a 84 306 Ross xl400 pistons an holman moody cam an the 351 heads the cam did not take its solid flat tapped so since I did not have any luck with the solid flat tapped I'm doing a full rebuild on my 94 roller with the aluminum heads I'd like to sale the 69 model heads just to get some of my money back out of that motor if interested let me know thanks
If I'm not mistaken, should only use oil on lobes of roller cam. Thick goo can turn lifters sideways.
I dont really see how that’s possible given roller lifters have dog bones or link bars to prevent them from turning
@@vasilibrown Manufactures recommend just soaking them in oil though anyway. Apparently it can cause the roller to develop flat spots on startup.
Did you prime your engine before starting it up?
Actually, just started it a week ago and I did not prime it before. Cheap insurance if you do it, but I’m not good at doing the right thing lol
Bahahaha!!! Did u say, "factory specs are thou & a half or sixteen tenths"? If u dont know let me put in numbers for you. Thou & a half=.0015. Sixteen tenths= .0016. Maybey u meant to say it like that but it sounded funny to me. Cus its the same thing. Or almost the same.
I admit I dont really understand this comment but I’m glad I could make you laugh 😂😂😂
@@vasilibrown usually there is a tolerance given for factory specs. I was expecting u to give both ends of the tolerance. Example for my 390 would be on the rod bearing clearance is .0008 to .0015. Eight tenths of a thou to a thou & a half. I guess I was expecting that but u basicly gave the same measurement, u simply said it in different terms. It just struck me as funny. U made a good video. Im not tryin to laugh at u, not in a bad way. Henry Ford had a good one when he said "you can get a model T in any color u want as long as it's black".
By the way, I would never put a 390 together with .0008 to .0015 clearance on the rod bearings! If u look up any high perf engine like say a 302 Boss, you will see a high perf engine needs more clearance! The last 390 I put together I had .0025 on the rods. Still running strong today.
@@jesseduke694 ahhhhhhhhh I gotcha now I get it😂. Im glad you explained it and I definitely did not take it as an insult. Thanks for enjoying the vid brother!!!
Skip the doughnut and do it right .
love a good doughnut
Get tired of u folks thinking u r disc jockeys...love the contect but stick ur noise up your brown valve!!!
I thought it was weird having just silence Thank you for the feedback, maybe others feel the same as you!
Give the bloke a break, he has done a great job. I would be keen to see your perfect content to compare.
Trying to copy another builder
thanks for the view!
Hey do you have Facebook? I could really use some help on my 302 :/
Send me a message on messenger. Vasili Brown
I bought an old 302 block, crank, and pistons. I do all of my own mechanic work but have never built an engine. You've given me the confidence to tackle it myself!
You got this man! Get it done!
If you did this on a non race motor for your use, but instead for a general DD use, how many miles do you think it would last?
I dont see any reason why it wouldnt last as long as a factory engine. I’d be confident in 100k miles for sure, probably more
Dude you shouldn't be to touch a tool... Also you should go and read the dictionary what the definition of plagiarism is with the material that you're stealing from vice grip garage. So go back to video games and leave the real work to the real mechanics
Will do, thank you for the advice
Fantastic job 👌 love your mind set and dedication massive amount of respect 💯🤜🤛💯
Thank you so much!
Why did it take a wrench to turn the cam? That engine will not last long.
Maybe it won’t but so far it’s still running great
If you beat that cam in tear it back down and put some new cam bearings in
Too late lol
is the foxbody 302 5.0 the same engine as the obs f150 302 5.0?
Basically, different camshaft I believe
depending on the year, the HO or Mustang (found in LSC Lincolns) will have forged pistons and a 351W firing order. others are cast pistons and the old 302 firing order.
OHHHHH MY GOD so Shiny! great work dude
Preciate you bro!
Yee yee
Preciate you!
😂😂get a rubber floor pad you can drop all the parts you want. 😉
Now that’s a good idea!!
WTF 😂😂
Gotta do whatcha gotta do 😅😅😅
Say what ya want but the 302 Ford is uniquely superior to the Chevy block for many racing classes.
I’ve worked on mostly ford my whole life. After working on one chevy the only advantage I see to it is chevy stuff is wayyyyyy cheaper
@@vasilibrown na 302 is way superior in many racing classes. Take the same 305 Chevy class When done the 302 makes identical power but the key is it weighs significantly less. Makes it a far better choice. And it costs near identical. 🤷🏻♂️ Chevy is far inferior in this department. Our mod weighs 125 pounds less in n the front. ……. Because it’s a 302. Not even arguable. Ford 302 is the best racing choice in its class by a good margin.
I dont disagree at all! Appreciate the comments!
@@vasilibrown in our class they had to to ban gt40 heads as a 351 with gt40 heads was not only cheap or was winning races so the Chevy guys wouldn’t tolerate such a thing. Imagine banning something because it works and is cheap. In an economy class car.
@somedude2433 I'm a ford guy but I will say, the gt40 head is pretty much better than any of the previous windsor oem heads, but it is not in the same league as chevys vortec heads. Chevy vortec heads are the best small chevy oem head they have. They still have there flaws, but they perform better than the camel hump & any other chevy heads. And they perform better than fords gt40 heads. That being said, the gt40 head being the best windsor head & chevy vortec being the best chevy head, the gt40 is not fords best small block heads. The clevland heads are the clear best small block oem heads. The only thing that matches them would be the new LS heads. It took 50yrs for any company to match what the clevland was capable of!
New subscriber👍
Thanks brother!
Would u happened to have link to rebuild parts u used boss?
Like bearings and rings
@@josebanderas2078 King CR804XPN XP Rod Bearings, King MB 529XP Main Bearing, Sealed Power E-458K Piston Ring Set. You can go cheaper on the bearings but this is going to see road racing so built accordingly.
@@vasilibrown thanks boss
Never would have guess you’ve never done bearings and rings. Loved the build man. Thanks for a good laugh too.
Preciate you man! Stick around for more. Been working on getting it back in the mustang
Красава!!
Thank you for the kind words!!