I've been running a melling high volume pump for 3 years with a stock pan. Regular trips to 6200 plus and zero problems. Make sure you use a hardened oil pump driveshaft.
Just a question, do you hold high rpm for a decent length of time or just run it up through a gear then back down? The oil pan evacuation/starvation issues usually only occur when the rpm is high for a decent length of time or during high g forces.
Hammer Head Garage yeah cool good to know. I have a cheap old falcon I use as a rally car, has an 4 litre inline 6, I’ve never had oil issues while rallying it full noise but I did get oil starvation doing doughnuts on the spot once, heard it start ticking and seen no oil pressure on dash, only a couple seconds before I realised and stopped, engine survived luckily. Was a weird one but I put it down to the g force of quick circles and constant 5000 rpm. It’s strange cause there has been plenty of fast laps on the rally track I’d expect to have issue with but never do. One of those things if u have a good engine it might be better off preparing for something that might never be an issue rather than waiting for it to cause damage and lose a good engine to something that could have been prevented. Hard to know if your situation really needs it until it’s too late
Slight correction needed here. While he was somewhat correct when he stated the "302" had "shorter connecting rods" than the 289, the BOSS 302 utilized connecting rods that were the same length as the 289. In fact, the 1969 BOSS 302's connecting rods used the same forgings as the 289 HiPo, but instead of being "broached" for the HiPo's "square head" 3/8" rod bolts, the BOSS rods were "spotfaced" for the "football"-headed 3/8" bolts exclusive to the BOSS engines.
The trick the British use for the valve cover is to silicone it to the valve cover and then coat the bottom of the gasket with LubriPlate or just plain axle grease, which will in turn act as a primitive sealant in it's own right, all the while allowing for the assembly to be readily removed.
Rebuilding a 302 for my 91 F-150 and it's a very similar build to this one so this is very helpful for me! bore is at 4.060 with a 3 inch stroke bringing it to 312. Topping it with some new DSS -3 cc flat top pistons and an Edelbrock performer RPM camshaft, intake, and cylinder heads. I figured let them do all the work for me as far as mating a cam intake and heads. The compression when I'm done with it all should be around 9.94 to 1. Little saddened cause I thought I'd make around 400 based on the edelbrock numbers but your video shows that it might not be that much. Still I have been watching you guys for years and yall have just grown my love for working on engines and now I have the knowledge to build my own for a vehicle that I love dearly. Thank you so much and I look forward to building this back up!
@@strydyrhellzrydyr1345 actually you're correct! A lot has changed with the build since I wrote that comment and I'm looking now at about 420 according to my numbers and some older racing guys that I know of say 450 horse with this motor
@@ethanbunch3274 Kool man... Good for you... Yeah, seems very likely to me. I'd have to hear it... But I bet probably closer to 450. Than to 400. Hell, depending on setup, and other little details, it could be even a bit higher than that... It depends
My guess is you’re using a Comp Cams 35-450-8 in it. It’s the same cam I’m using in my 306 for my F100. I’m using the Ready-to-Run Distributor with 1.6 scorpion roller rockers on AFR 185cc Aluminum Heads that are ported to 200+cc, Air-Gap intake, and a 650 Holley Carb. Very nice setup!
Your setup is making more peak, and average, Hp, and Tq.! You have much better cyl. heads, the best dual plane intake, and matched perfectly to the rpm range of that camshaft! Great choice of parts.
What's your combustion chamber specs? I'm thinking about going 58cc with stock stroke and rods but I'm not sure what piston size to go for. They never mentioned in the video what piston specs they have for 10.2:1
That is a perfect N/A setup. Very close to the standard I have used with great results. Funny, I had a 100 with a 429 long ago and I would have loved to use a SBF build with the stuff out today. The 650 is absolutely perfect for that setup too.
when you store any engine ,for more then a season that has push rods, back the rockers off all the valves are closed, some springs mess up if you dont,plus it keeps junk out.
Antiseize on plugs will significantly reduce heat transfer from the plug to the head, causing shorter plug life. GM has a TSB about this. Better to chase the threads and use a little engine oil and just back the plugs out and reseat at oil change time
Ford engineers had a goal to make 400 hp and they exceeded it. You really should thank the engineers for pushing for a better product as they are real car people. For years Ford didn't put a rear independent suspension on the Mustang because it cost an extra $800 per car but the engineers kept insisting to have the mustang with IRS (Corbras did come with IRS for the 99 2000). Then the Coyote Engine came out and it exceeded 400 hp which was pretty amazing on 87 octane and 91 gave you 425 to 435 hp depending on the model year. The only sad part is that the LS motor offers a better bang for buck performance wise. The LS motor is more simple than the Coyote, costs less to modify (I.e. one can verses 4) and responds better to mods. Plus the larger displacement combined with the 2 valve design gives more low end torque for the LS.
@@brarautorepairs the mustang was always a MUSCLE car in the past without the independent suspension. Muscle cars strength is power and acceleration. Since independent suspension is now in the mustang picture(to enhance handling) it's no longer a muscle car, and instead a sports car along with the Corvette. As far as the coyote engine goes I'm not a fan of myself. Ford can KEEP IT! I like the old push rod engines. If I can have a Windsor, then I'll do an LS swap before I do a coyote swap into my foxbody. I'm glad to see ford come to there sences and offer the new Godzilla 7.3 and the smaller 6.8 version pushrod engines.
@@erikturner5073 Ford will likely have to move to a V6 engine in the GT in the future. Pushrod motors, despite their packaging and weight advantages, aren't going to be the future of ICE. The DOHC 5.0L 32 valve engine is undoubtedly better than the old school V8 offerings from Ford. GM is an outliers with their continued use and development of push rod engines. But even GM had to add cam phasing for emission reasons to their motors. Chrysler's HEMI engines haven't put out amazing numbers without forced induction. We look at a 5.0l V8 with a high rev in high specific output which is best for a track setting.
@@brarautorepairs although the LS and Hemi rule the streets. Both are pushrod engines. Coyotes are impressive, but are over complicated and also very expensive. They are not as popular as the other two. Plus people are going back to the old Windsors. Plus they lack cubes. Still if I couldn't have a Windsor, then I'd do an LS swap into my foxbody and not a Coyote. LS swaps are much more popular than coyote swaps for plenty of reasons.
The low deck Windsor began at 221 cid like the flathead but its first performance model was the 260, seen in Tigers and early Cobras both by Carroll Shelby. The K code 289 made its 271 horsepower with a small carb, Shelby got rid of that and made 306 hp not 350. The 302 did in fact use a shorter connecting rod, but not in the Boss 302 version--it kept the longer 289 connecting rod with special pistons to match its canted valve heads. Because the 289 had the shorter stroke of the 260, it is not a good candidate for stroker engines--its cylinder walls don't extend far enough into the crankcase, so a longer stroke pulls the piston down out of the bottom of the bore and it rocks around at BDC--unless your 289 was built in 1967, which is when Ford did design them with the longer 302 cylinder wall. If you have to align hone the main caps, consider the 289 Challenger K code models got thicker main caps and use a set along with the threaded core plugs used by the Boss 302s. But there's still enough roller cam equipped, post 1986 5.0 blocks around to start an engine build with, so if you're starting from scratch, it's worth hitting the junkyard for an engine they'll warantee. Grab some GT40P heads off an Explorer on the way out the door (too bad Mustang OEM tubular headers won't clear the spark plugs without work) and you've got a compact torque package for budget power. Choose a camshaft profile with the 351W firing order--the non HO 302 firing order sets both front cylinders off at once, which can cause block issues when you go past 500hp.
Back then there was no torque management to save the transmission, so when your 302 Ford or 350 GM made 400hp at the flywheel you soon sent your stock transmission over the rainbow bridge. You’re right though, it’s impressive that engine platforms designed as much as 70 years ago are still thriving due to the enthusiast market.
@@gregoryclark6339 And the they make a 7.3 Godzilla. I think that says something about gasv V8. There is a V8 hybrid coming next yea..im thinking a Super Duty surprise. They say it's for Mustang, but that doesn't make sense. Either way Ford is kicking butt and so is Chevy with their new 6.6 gas. I've never been 100% on the current HEMI, but I'm sure they are fine overall.
Alot of these new factory cars making 600hp+ are heavy AF the old foxbody mustangs we so dang light thats a big reason these 350-400hp 302's can still hang.
@@edwardzamorski3711 My riding lawn mower is has the dull headlight package and 12.5 hp. 0-10 in 3.7 seconds. EcoBrats don't stand a chance. Hellcat?? Nope. Anything GM? Piss off. Tesla?? Were you drunk when you designed the Cyber-Drunk? Sure looks like it...fkn punding Budweisers while watching Sci Fi channel about Musk Aliens. Give me modesty because overall, I can stomach the maintainence costs (even if a bit much). I can't imagine the batteryu packs in those and the procedure in replacing them, or the drive motors when they go bad...and they will go bad. No thanks I'll beat them to 60 by leaving yesterday; no problem!!
Would love to see this build again, but this time retain the efi and maybe a run with a edelbrock intake and a run with the trickflow and see if it can still knock out the 400hp.
@@vtecbanger3180 Would've assumed EFI would make more sense but probably simpler for a dyno setup especially if they had a carb lying around. I prefer the wonders of EFI in a street car
The stock Windsor (as opposed to the Cleveland) oiling system is great from the factory. I've never seen anyone else run extra oil lines in the valley.
I used to always use high volume oil pumps in BBF and BBC because the old man always did in the 80s. Never bothered doing it with SBF and it has never failed in 100s of passes and high revs. I have also seen the filter blow on BBC from it.
I honestly didn't expect it to gain this much power with the stock stroke. A 331 with this same top end (..and a little more cam) would be a bad little motor.
That's exactly what I'm currently building for a '69 stang, same cam that they used but with aluminum heads and a 331 stroker kit, after seeing this I'm super excited to get this old car back on the road!
@@tomwiens3500 is a summit stroker good? These guys raised it up to 400 hp but it was just 1 time. I was wondering if it can last and aren't fragile parts.
@@oscarvillarreal8951 Not 100% sure on summit's assembled short blocks. I'm running a stock factory roller block with a scat series 9000 331 stroker rotating assembly that they claim can handle 600hp. Being that with my cam/head setup it's only going to be around 400hp I'm not at all worried.
Is it just me, but there sure seemed to be a heck of a lot of blow by coming out of the valve cover on this brand new engine! I' haven't seen this on any video I've watched here on UA-cam!
If you are specifically building a 8.2 deck and down to the block just spend the extra money to get the newer Boss 5.0 with the 4-bolt main. It literally fits EVERYWHERE a oem 5.0 does, uses the 1/2" head bolts and with the FRPP water pump never gets hot. Then you can boost the crap out it later to over 1000hp and it won't split.
Boys after put rod on the crank and torque you need to turn crank to make sure nothing is pinching on ever rod you can with rear seal out first you will get a better fill of rotation if one rod is to tight you can fine out what's wrong thanks for a good show l.d.k.
Those crankshaft appear to be heated a little bit to much to press fit the pins, personally I would worry about metallurgical changes in the steel. But I really enjoyed watching this episode. Take care guys!
@@mikec9112 the 351 and 302 are both Windsor blocks the only difference being 351 is 9.5 deck and 302 is 8.2... but you can take heads off one and they will work on the other!
@@mikec9112 the 302W and 351W were the most popular engines they powered everything the Cleveland motors were rare and much more used in Ford Australia vehicles
They're definitely tough engines. I have a 99 explorer AWD with a 5.0 and I've got 361K on the clock. Biggest headache so far was replacing the water pump just because of the infamous problem of the bolts seizing to the timing cover. Hit them with a little bit of heat and they backed right out. I love my 302
@@RapiddShortss I respectfully disagree. Their entire show is based off the fact that they’re supposed to be very well versed in what they’re giving advice on. This is beyond grammatical errors.
Damn great gains, I've built a motor very similar to this but cost me far more than 3k. More like 12k in Australia and that's not even forged bottom end.
I'm hearing you mate, but it can be done. I'm slapping together an ex-AU Falcon 5.0L block with the GT40P heads and some new springs and exhaust valves to replace the odd rotator system. Couple with some mild home porting, a used intake and a cam similar to the ISKY MegaCam 280 and she'll be a 400hp street beast.
@@doughavenga316 Not really. They're approaching 2v Cleveland flow and after a port are very close. Those heads are renound to flow 400hp+ easily. Nothing wrong with a GT40P casting if you do your research on the combo.
Gt40 heads are fine. Problem comes in if you pay to have them ported. Then the price of that puts you close to a decent set of heads out of the box. If you can port them yourself or don’t mind spending money on a factory head, they are great. Easy to make 400hp with the right supporting parts.
@@joeschlotthauer840 It doesn't have an oil issue when stock, it's actually superior to the Cleveland blocks in that it has 3 oil galleys and not 2. That and the higher pressure cylinder heads made it a better workhorse motor. That said all pushrod motors have trouble quickly moving a lot of oil to the top end especially on start up given that the oil has to be pumped through the pushrods as well as the lifters if they're hydraulic. That's why pushrod motors make so much mechanical noise and are extra violent during cold starts. Edit: I'm also curious as to the oiling modifications. I'd be willing to bet its just a bit of insurance in hopes that the engine will last longer. I do remember seeing a build done by a nascar engine builder who made a similar upgrade to an old Y-block. He also deadend 2 cylinders and turned it into a high RPM v6, so I doubt their reasons are the same.
You should have shot the oiling system upgrades, looks like a bypass to the rear of the block to help with oiling in the rear of the block since the pump is at the front of the engine?
Something similar is done with 351C builds, but easier to do. There is an oil port just behind the intake and another next to the fuel pump, just run a line between the oil ports.
this is the exact cam and intake combo i have in 1973 comet GT. What if i were to use Trick Flow R series heads and 10.50:01 static? i am putting this engine in a 1970.5 clone camaro. should i use an XR roller cam like an XR 288 HR10 or stick with the 230* @ O.O5O"? Also thought of building a 429 windsor with 6.4" rods, 1.125" piston, 4.155" bore, 3.95" stroke, and a dart block with 9.5" deck. Same cam and compression. And putting this 429 super cobra jet wizard i mean windsor in the camaro later. its a daily driver pro tourer. rod ratio would be 1.62:01. Well and there is that 631 bbc N/A only, that is iffy on piston thickness at 1.200" and rod of 8" , 4.85" stroke, Dart tall deck 11.625", with 4.550" bore size. Is that do-able for youns ? it has rod ratio of 1.65:01 better than a 350 sbc at around 1.64:01. it would of course be extremely mild for it's size. A great daily driver is all i am looking for, hahahhahah! :o) Or do i use a regular 355 chebby 6.25" rods, 10.5:1 compression, with an XR282HR10 magnum cam, EPS or RPM intake, trick flow 213cc ported heads, and call it quits? OR there is the 370 c.i. sbc with the same although with 6" rods and 1.64:01 same as stock 350 rod ratio, and performer RPM intake. 40 gallon fuel tank in this one.
@@eric5.080 never dynoed it. It had 3.73s and 5speed so maybe 300 wheel but was a fun street car. Took to 1/8 mile first pass trapped 91mph spinning. Second pass hooked hard broke an axle.
You guys know what you all are doing. Why did you skip measuring the main bores ? Did you trust how they looked and just assume that the ID was within tolerance ?
Yes you did he said he used Summit racing value pack but considering how old this video is doubt it’s still available and they used a crane camshaft, crane cams are no longer available.
I used the cork gasket to give me more clearance for my stock valve covers since I’m running 1.6 roller rockers in my 87 ranger 5.0 swapped, works like a charm if you know how to use it 😂
Little mistake showing the longer 38 special cartridge as a 9mm, and the short 9mm as a 38. In reality, both of those would make almost exactly the same size 3/8" hole. Something like a 30-30 Winchester or other 30 caliber would be closer to 5/16". Not a bad idea, never really thought of it, but I got a set of hole punches from Harbor Freight many years ago for around $3 that have been great! Made me cringe when you punched the gasket directly on the red painted surface of the tool box!
Was gonna point that out about the casings but I knew if I scrolled the comments, it had already been done. Not many gun guys/reloaders are also car guys. You would think so but it's not as common as most might think.
Pull it and put an Aussie 302 Cleveland in it ! That would have people scratching their heads , Ford Australia made them from 1974 to 1984/5 ! Good running 302 Cleveland in Australia? About $1000 US , as they were hated here as they were swapped out for the 351C , grate engine the 302C , 6 inch fordged rods, closed chamber 2v style ports but all came with 4barrel carbies and manifold to line up with 2v port sizes , slap a set is US 4v 351c valves in those heads and you have the best Cleveland head around , it will fit anywhere a 302w will , same mounts, Bell housing ! It would be a different mustang for sure !
The 5/16" hole punch would be from 32 Caliber pistol brass or 30 caliber rifle brass. 9mm would be closer to 3/8". 38 special/357 Mag and 380 or 38 Super brass should get you even closer to 3/8".
Ive got a 91 ford f150 with the 302 in it. I’m trying to do basically the same thing. I’ve looked in summit racing and looked for some of these assembly kits. Do you have any recommendations?
@@oscarvillarreal8951 all depends on what hp limit you plan on staying in.. Unless they're made of plastic, you should be good.. Also, find out your block's limit, n in my opinion I'd go with the biggest stroke possible, there's no replacement for displacement, good luck man..
Hey guys...great video Two questions. What carb did you use and what was your final base timing ? Was all in under 34 degrees or higher ? Thanks )oh I guess that was 3 questions..lol)
RIP Joe, we'll miss you're awesome voice and character!
400 hp at the crank in a light foxbody 5-spd is all you need.
I 💯% agree with that statement.
This would also be a great swap for an old Maverick.
I said the same thing when I built 300hp, then 400hp, then 500 hp, then 600hp, it’s a sickness that never ends
To all the naysayers, C5 Z06 was rated 405hp. Foxbody LX notch/hatch is even lighter than C5.
@@Southern10Fiveoverkill yes. Awesome absofknlutely
I've been running a melling high volume pump for 3 years with a stock pan. Regular trips to 6200 plus and zero problems. Make sure you use a hardened oil pump driveshaft.
ARP is now making an oil pump drive shaft for the Fords.
Just a question, do you hold high rpm for a decent length of time or just run it up through a gear then back down? The oil pan evacuation/starvation issues usually only occur when the rpm is high for a decent length of time or during high g forces.
@@ZedTee77 up and down, no road for that here. Still, I have friends who stock car race with the same deal. No oil starvation.
Hammer Head Garage yeah cool good to know. I have a cheap old falcon I use as a rally car, has an 4 litre inline 6, I’ve never had oil issues while rallying it full noise but I did get oil starvation doing doughnuts on the spot once, heard it start ticking and seen no oil pressure on dash, only a couple seconds before I realised and stopped, engine survived luckily. Was a weird one but I put it down to the g force of quick circles and constant 5000 rpm. It’s strange cause there has been plenty of fast laps on the rally track I’d expect to have issue with but never do. One of those things if u have a good engine it might be better off preparing for something that might never be an issue rather than waiting for it to cause damage and lose a good engine to something that could have been prevented. Hard to know if your situation really needs it until it’s too late
@@ZedTee77 If you have room for a baffled extended oil pan I say use it. I don't.
Neat! Cast iron aluminum heads, they must be super rare
I caught that too!
😂 right!?
So rare 2nd pair still not made
Holy fuck how did they let that fly
For those wondering about the oil system upgrade in the lifter gallery, it's covered in Horsepower S13 E16 at 16:25
Thanks!
Yep. I have had many pump rods twist and snap. Sucks
thanks
Thank you so much!
Slight correction needed here. While he was somewhat correct when he stated the "302" had "shorter connecting rods" than the 289, the BOSS 302 utilized connecting rods that were the same length as the 289. In fact, the 1969 BOSS 302's connecting rods used the same forgings as the 289 HiPo, but instead of being "broached" for the HiPo's "square head" 3/8" rod bolts, the BOSS rods were "spotfaced" for the "football"-headed 3/8" bolts exclusive to the BOSS engines.
Where can I get some of those cast iron aluminum heads? I was going to get steel bronze ones.
The plastic heads are lighter... or iron plastic heads if don't mind a little more weight...
@DFB58 - I knew they would... heat is HP and the powdercoat holds heat in...
unobtainium heads are the best! also chrome moly rings, and don't forget the cross drilled brake hoses!
Unobtainium heads are always best for budget engine builds...
I personally go for the Alumisteel.
6:40 "Cast Iron Aluminum Heads" man, am I going crazy?
no you're not I heard it too had to back it up to double check what he said
Yeah! I too did a double take!?
Hahah so did I
Think he meant they are available in iron or aluminum
I think what He meant was they make them in cast iron AND aluminum lol
I rebuilt my 302 to a 306 with an edlebrock airgap and a 1406 carb pulled 379hp. Not bad for a garage build 👌 Melts rubber too
How much it cost you? I have a tired 1968 mustang 302 in the back carport. I need do do something with it. What can did you put in yours?
What do you do if you're fuel injected
Did you also used a summit stroker kit?
@@oscarvillarreal8951 This is NOT a stroker!
The trick the British use for the valve cover is to silicone it to the valve cover and then coat the bottom of the gasket with LubriPlate or just plain axle grease, which will in turn act as a primitive sealant in it's own right, all the while allowing for the assembly to be readily removed.
Thats how I've done mine for years. Works great
The arts and crafts section was outstanding! Some very useful easy projects to make your life easier. They also build a pretty bad ass little 302.
Rebuilding a 302 for my 91 F-150 and it's a very similar build to this one so this is very helpful for me! bore is at 4.060 with a 3 inch stroke bringing it to 312. Topping it with some new DSS -3 cc flat top pistons and an Edelbrock performer RPM camshaft, intake, and cylinder heads. I figured let them do all the work for me as far as mating a cam intake and heads. The compression when I'm done with it all should be around 9.94 to 1. Little saddened cause I thought I'd make around 400 based on the edelbrock numbers but your video shows that it might not be that much. Still I have been watching you guys for years and yall have just grown my love for working on engines and now I have the knowledge to build my own for a vehicle that I love dearly. Thank you so much and I look forward to building this back up!
Why.. it might be .. it actually could be more.. not leas
@@strydyrhellzrydyr1345 actually you're correct! A lot has changed with the build since I wrote that comment and I'm looking now at about 420 according to my numbers and some older racing guys that I know of say 450 horse with this motor
@@ethanbunch3274 Kool man... Good for you... Yeah, seems very likely to me. I'd have to hear it... But I bet probably closer to 450. Than to 400.
Hell, depending on setup, and other little details, it could be even a bit higher than that... It depends
Did you use a Summit stroker kit?
@@ethanbunch3274 And was the Summit stroker kit reliable when you used it?
The 302 does have shorter connecting rods, but the longer stroke 3" vs 2.87" is what makes the larger displacement.
Nice, added the rod bolt boots this time!
Been using the hi-volume oil pumps forever. Used an ARP or Milodon race pump shaft for last 8K RPM Mech Roller cam motor. Nice build!
Love the RHS heads HP/$!
How do you get this performance w/89 octane, timing deg ? Thx!
Our old benchmark for factory C9-D0 351W iron heads on a 302 was 355 HP @ 6,000!
My guess is you’re using a Comp Cams 35-450-8 in it. It’s the same cam I’m using in my 306 for my F100. I’m using the Ready-to-Run Distributor with 1.6 scorpion roller rockers on AFR 185cc Aluminum Heads that are ported to 200+cc, Air-Gap intake, and a 650 Holley Carb. Very nice setup!
Your setup is making more peak, and average, Hp, and Tq.! You have much better cyl. heads, the best dual plane intake, and matched perfectly to the rpm range of that camshaft! Great choice of parts.
What's your combustion chamber specs? I'm thinking about going 58cc with stock stroke and rods but I'm not sure what piston size to go for. They never mentioned in the video what piston specs they have for 10.2:1
That is a perfect N/A setup. Very close to the standard I have used with great results. Funny, I had a 100 with a 429 long ago and I would have loved to use a SBF build with the stuff out today. The 650 is absolutely perfect for that setup too.
@@slambergang Mine should be around 10.8 or so.
Man.. this is perfect... Exactly what I need done right at the moment... This is just the perfect type of rebuilds I am into
when you store any engine ,for more then a season that has push rods, back the rockers off all the valves are closed, some springs mess up if you dont,plus it keeps junk out.
This is one of best engine build dyno shows on thanks a lot l.d.k.
Antiseize on plugs will significantly reduce heat transfer from the plug to the head, causing shorter plug life. GM has a TSB about this. Better to chase the threads and use a little engine oil and just back the plugs out and reseat at oil change time
When the 5.0L Coyote V8 came out that took the little 302 as well as the Ford Modular V8 to a whole another level.
Ford engineers had a goal to make 400 hp and they exceeded it. You really should thank the engineers for pushing for a better product as they are real car people. For years Ford didn't put a rear independent suspension on the Mustang because it cost an extra $800 per car but the engineers kept insisting to have the mustang with IRS (Corbras did come with IRS for the 99 2000). Then the Coyote Engine came out and it exceeded 400 hp which was pretty amazing on 87 octane and 91 gave you 425 to 435 hp depending on the model year. The only sad part is that the LS motor offers a better bang for buck performance wise. The LS motor is more simple than the Coyote, costs less to modify (I.e. one can verses 4) and responds better to mods. Plus the larger displacement combined with the 2 valve design gives more low end torque for the LS.
@@brarautorepairs Thats true.
@@brarautorepairs the mustang was always a MUSCLE car in the past without the independent suspension. Muscle cars strength is power and acceleration. Since independent suspension is now in the mustang picture(to enhance handling) it's no longer a muscle car, and instead a sports car along with the Corvette. As far as the coyote engine goes I'm not a fan of myself. Ford can KEEP IT! I like the old push rod engines. If I can have a Windsor, then I'll do an LS swap before I do a coyote swap into my foxbody. I'm glad to see ford come to there sences and offer the new Godzilla 7.3 and the smaller 6.8 version pushrod engines.
@@erikturner5073 Ford will likely have to move to a V6 engine in the GT in the future. Pushrod motors, despite their packaging and weight advantages, aren't going to be the future of ICE. The DOHC 5.0L 32 valve engine is undoubtedly better than the old school V8 offerings from Ford. GM is an outliers with their continued use and development of push rod engines. But even GM had to add cam phasing for emission reasons to their motors. Chrysler's HEMI engines haven't put out amazing numbers without forced induction. We look at a 5.0l V8 with a high rev in high specific output which is best for a track setting.
@@brarautorepairs although the LS and Hemi rule the streets. Both are pushrod engines. Coyotes are impressive, but are over complicated and also very expensive. They are not as popular as the other two. Plus people are going back to the old Windsors. Plus they lack cubes. Still if I couldn't have a Windsor, then I'd do an LS swap into my foxbody and not a Coyote. LS swaps are much more popular than coyote swaps for plenty of reasons.
The low deck Windsor began at 221 cid like the flathead but its first performance model was the 260, seen in Tigers and early Cobras both by Carroll Shelby. The K code 289 made its 271 horsepower with a small carb, Shelby got rid of that and made 306 hp not 350. The 302 did in fact use a shorter connecting rod, but not in the Boss 302 version--it kept the longer 289 connecting rod with special pistons to match its canted valve heads. Because the 289 had the shorter stroke of the 260, it is not a good candidate for stroker engines--its cylinder walls don't extend far enough into the crankcase, so a longer stroke pulls the piston down out of the bottom of the bore and it rocks around at BDC--unless your 289 was built in 1967, which is when Ford did design them with the longer 302 cylinder wall.
If you have to align hone the main caps, consider the 289 Challenger K code models got thicker main caps and use a set along with the threaded core plugs used by the Boss 302s. But there's still enough roller cam equipped, post 1986 5.0 blocks around to start an engine build with, so if you're starting from scratch, it's worth hitting the junkyard for an engine they'll warantee. Grab some GT40P heads off an Explorer on the way out the door (too bad Mustang OEM tubular headers won't clear the spark plugs without work) and you've got a compact torque package for budget power. Choose a camshaft profile with the 351W firing order--the non HO 302 firing order sets both front cylinders off at once, which can cause block issues when you go past 500hp.
Mine is gonna be done this weekend! Beyond pumped up. 86 F-150 with identical build as shown
Same heads too? What part number are yours? Thanks
how much was the build ?
looking to do this on my 1979 F-150 Ranger XLT
It's weird. 400 hp used to mean something; even 300. I love the modest numbers and excellent reliability of these 302's.
Back then there was no torque management to save the transmission, so when your 302 Ford or 350 GM made 400hp at the flywheel you soon sent your stock transmission over the rainbow bridge. You’re right though, it’s impressive that engine platforms designed as much as 70 years ago are still thriving due to the enthusiast market.
@@gregoryclark6339 And the they make a 7.3 Godzilla. I think that says something about gasv V8. There is a V8 hybrid coming next yea..im thinking a Super Duty surprise. They say it's for Mustang, but that doesn't make sense. Either way Ford is kicking butt and so is Chevy with their new 6.6 gas. I've never been 100% on the current HEMI, but I'm sure they are fine overall.
Alot of these new factory cars making 600hp+ are heavy AF the old foxbody mustangs we so dang light thats a big reason these 350-400hp 302's can still hang.
3 or 400 horsepower still means alot to me after owning a Ford tempo
@@edwardzamorski3711 My riding lawn mower is has the dull headlight package and 12.5 hp. 0-10 in 3.7 seconds. EcoBrats don't stand a chance. Hellcat?? Nope. Anything GM? Piss off. Tesla?? Were you drunk when you designed the Cyber-Drunk? Sure looks like it...fkn punding Budweisers while watching Sci Fi channel about Musk Aliens. Give me modesty because overall, I can stomach the maintainence costs (even if a bit much). I can't imagine the batteryu packs in those and the procedure in replacing them, or the drive motors when they go bad...and they will go bad. No thanks I'll beat them to 60 by leaving yesterday; no problem!!
Would love to see this build again, but this time retain the efi and maybe a run with a edelbrock intake and a run with the trickflow and see if it can still knock out the 400hp.
I would love to know that outcome
definitely with the EFI idk why they got rid of it
@@whackaify must make more with carb
@@vtecbanger3180 Would've assumed EFI would make more sense but probably simpler for a dyno setup especially if they had a carb lying around. I prefer the wonders of EFI in a street car
@@whackaify rich holdner just dropped a video. The efi had more bottom end but the carb killed it too end.
Just found this channel and instantly subbed.. just because of the TV shows back in the day
I LOVE your channel but I do wish you linked things in the description like the rotating assembly you got from summit since there is so many choices
its probably the summit brand rotating assembly. this is a super old video
I COULD LITERALLY LISTEN TO HIM TALK ALL DAY ❤
The stock Windsor (as opposed to the Cleveland) oiling system is great from the factory. I've never seen anyone else run extra oil lines in the valley.
I've been looking for " Cast Iron Aluminum Heads " my whole life!
Nice clean job guys!! I have been looking for a updated build for my 5.0 and this looks good!
Never use a stock transmission on a high pro engine tranny will blow up
I used to always use high volume oil pumps in BBF and BBC because the old man always did in the 80s. Never bothered doing it with SBF and it has never failed in 100s of passes and high revs. I have also seen the filter blow on BBC from it.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! THE PERFECT UPGRADE FOR YOUR DAILY DRIVER!!! GREAT VIDEO AND THANKS FOR SHARING!!!
Shorter connecting rods does not increase the stroke only when you include a crank with a longer stroke. @ 1:00
1:02 Shorter connecting rods do not affect the stroke. it just makes the combustion chamber taller or shorter, thus affecting the compression ratio.
No, shorter rod is for longer stroke to use same piston height.
I always wanted cast iron aluminum heads, lol. I bet they make all the Horse Powers
What episode details the oiling upgrade in the lifter galley?
Ive looked every where, i remember watching it on TV 12 or so years ago
I recently bought a 302 out of the Mustang GT for my old truck.
Love how you guy's used different rounds when making gasket penetrations 😉
I honestly didn't expect it to gain this much power with the stock stroke. A 331 with this same top end (..and a little more cam) would be a bad little motor.
I thought it needed a little more cam too. But not bad for 89 octane.
That's exactly what I'm currently building for a '69 stang, same cam that they used but with aluminum heads and a 331 stroker kit, after seeing this I'm super excited to get this old car back on the road!
@@tomwiens3500 is a summit stroker good? These guys raised it up to 400 hp but it was just 1 time. I was wondering if it can last and aren't fragile parts.
@@oscarvillarreal8951 Not 100% sure on summit's assembled short blocks. I'm running a stock factory roller block with a scat series 9000 331 stroker rotating assembly that they claim can handle 600hp. Being that with my cam/head setup it's only going to be around 400hp I'm not at all worried.
@@tomwiens3500 thanks for the feedback brother 👍
I suck at math. But your conversions for the gasket maker was great thanks!!!
OUTSTANDING video! No wasted time honing and all the rest. I want the recipe please. Cam Specs especially. How can I get it?
Google Powernation blue oval 302. Click parts list.
Cast iron aluminum heads 🤣🤣 new alloy huh Joe??🤣🤣
That's what I said. I even had to rewind that part to make sure that I heard it right LOL
@@johngreene6783 RIGHT!?!?
I also had to rewatch that part 😂
Cast iron-aluminum heads. Cheaper performance heads made of cast iron rather than aluminum
The weight of cast iron with the price of aluminum!
Is it just me, but there sure seemed to be a heck of a lot of blow by coming out of the valve cover on this brand new engine! I' haven't seen this on any video I've watched here on UA-cam!
Engines have pretty good blowby at WOT !!! That's why a PCV seals closed at low power, opens at WOT...
rings probably not broken in yet or installed wrong
Almost sounds like it's knocking a little something didn't seat or a lifter is collapsing
Built many engines in my dads repair shop, we never bought any stud boots for installing pistons, we just put pieces of rubber fuel hose on them
That is what I do.
If you are specifically building a 8.2 deck and down to the block just spend the extra money to get the newer Boss 5.0 with the 4-bolt main. It literally fits EVERYWHERE a oem 5.0 does, uses the 1/2" head bolts and with the FRPP water pump never gets hot. Then you can boost the crap out it later to over 1000hp and it won't split.
dam that's some sweet paint job on that block inside and out ,,😀😀😀
Glad I watched this now I know exactly the engine I'm building for my 83 convertible.
I've built several of those mustang motors and the 347 stroker kit with the EFI holley systemax II parts will make 425HP
How much did it cost you?
Hmm this is only a 306ci and makes 402 hp a 347 should make quite a bit more than 23
Hp more than a 306.
@@jackrabbit7389 do you know if Summit stroker is good? Or are the parts fragile and won't last?
Boys after put rod on the crank and torque you need to turn crank to make sure nothing is pinching on ever rod you can with rear seal out first you will get a better fill of rotation if one rod is to tight you can fine out what's wrong thanks for a good show l.d.k.
Those crankshaft appear to be heated a little bit to much to press fit the pins, personally I would worry about metallurgical changes in the steel. But I really enjoyed watching this episode. Take care guys!
I have a 302 Windsor V8 in my 96 F150 with 209,000 miles on it and still going.
@@mikec9112 The 302 is a Windsor V8 as well.
@@mikec9112 the 351 and 302 are both Windsor blocks the only difference being 351 is 9.5 deck and 302 is 8.2... but you can take heads off one and they will work on the other!
@@mikec9112 the 302W and 351W were the most popular engines they powered everything the Cleveland motors were rare and much more used in Ford Australia vehicles
They're definitely tough engines. I have a 99 explorer AWD with a 5.0 and I've got 361K on the clock. Biggest headache so far was replacing the water pump just because of the infamous problem of the bolts seizing to the timing cover. Hit them with a little bit of heat and they backed right out. I love my 302
Thats nothing, My Chevy LT1 has 296,000 and going strong, Engine never been opened!
That's pretty good horsepower for a tiny car Burger. But I believe you jump up to 750. You're gaining quite a bit more.
R.H.S cast iron aluminum heads lol.
Did he mean to say that or are they using teleprompters?
Lol wtf!
These guys are idiots...
@@aaronliddell4280 just because they have a few grammatical hiccups doesn’t mean they are idiots.
@@RapiddShortss I respectfully disagree. Their entire show is based off the fact that they’re supposed to be very well versed in what they’re giving advice on. This is beyond grammatical errors.
Those oiling mods are old school. People have turned the 302 HARD for years and years without any of that crap.
Is there a list of the parts that’s used for this build? Does anyone have a build list for a 302?
always loved the 302 even in the uk they are cheap horsepower !!!! nice video
What's the purpose of the lines in the lifter valley? Thanks
Also please let me know the link to the block preparation video. Thanks again.
Where can I learn more about the oiling modifications you did to this engine, please?
Hello, I would like to know this also. Is there a link for the episode where they did this modification. Thanks in advance
The only reason I clicked on the video and they barely mentioned it...
I always like to christen my brand new tool boxes with some punch marks from my gasket project...
Lol
Why am i starting to like fords? Gotta watch myself! 😛
Damn great gains, I've built a motor very similar to this but cost me far more than 3k. More like 12k in Australia and that's not even forged bottom end.
I'm hearing you mate, but it can be done. I'm slapping together an ex-AU Falcon 5.0L block with the GT40P heads and some new springs and exhaust valves to replace the odd rotator system. Couple with some mild home porting, a used intake and a cam similar to the ISKY MegaCam 280 and she'll be a 400hp street beast.
Your going to need something better than gt40p heads if you're looking for 400 hp!!
@@doughavenga316 Not really. They're approaching 2v Cleveland flow and after a port are very close. Those heads are renound to flow 400hp+ easily. Nothing wrong with a GT40P casting if you do your research on the combo.
Gt40 heads are fine. Problem comes in if you pay to have them ported. Then the price of that puts you close to a decent set of heads out of the box. If you can port them yourself or don’t mind spending money on a factory head, they are great. Easy to make 400hp with the right supporting parts.
I want that motor, what a gem.
cast iron aluminum heads 6:40 must be some super rare race part
A Ford straight 6 cylinder overhead cam barra motor
Was there a video about the oiling upgrades?
I also wanted to see more on that at 6:37, I didn't know that the 302 had a lubrication issue...
@@joeschlotthauer840 It doesn't have an oil issue when stock, it's actually superior to the Cleveland blocks in that it has 3 oil galleys and not 2. That and the higher pressure cylinder heads made it a better workhorse motor. That said all pushrod motors have trouble quickly moving a lot of oil to the top end especially on start up given that the oil has to be pumped through the pushrods as well as the lifters if they're hydraulic. That's why pushrod motors make so much mechanical noise and are extra violent during cold starts. Edit: I'm also curious as to the oiling modifications. I'd be willing to bet its just a bit of insurance in hopes that the engine will last longer. I do remember seeing a build done by a nascar engine builder who made a similar upgrade to an old Y-block. He also deadend 2 cylinders and turned it into a high RPM v6, so I doubt their reasons are the same.
@@anonymousanonymous9991
Thanks for responding positively...
You should have shot the oiling system upgrades, looks like a bypass to the rear of the block to help with oiling in the rear of the block since the pump is at the front of the engine?
Something similar is done with 351C builds, but easier to do.
There is an oil port just behind the intake and another next to the fuel pump, just run a line between the oil ports.
My setup rn is 347 scat kit afr 165 58, 1.6 rollers, double timing chain, billet msd with 6al, rpm2 upper nd lower with stage 2 tf cam
this is the exact cam and intake combo i have in 1973 comet GT. What if i were to use Trick Flow R series heads and 10.50:01 static? i am putting this engine in a 1970.5 clone camaro. should i use an XR roller cam like an XR 288 HR10 or stick with the 230* @ O.O5O"? Also thought of building a 429 windsor with 6.4" rods, 1.125" piston, 4.155" bore, 3.95" stroke, and a dart block with 9.5" deck. Same cam and compression. And putting this 429 super cobra jet wizard i mean windsor in the camaro later. its a daily driver pro tourer. rod ratio would be 1.62:01. Well and there is that 631 bbc N/A only, that is iffy on piston thickness at 1.200" and rod of 8" , 4.85" stroke, Dart tall deck 11.625", with 4.550" bore size. Is that do-able for youns ? it has rod ratio of 1.65:01 better than a 350 sbc at around 1.64:01. it would of course be extremely mild for it's size. A great daily driver is all i am looking for, hahahhahah! :o) Or do i use a regular 355 chebby 6.25" rods, 10.5:1 compression, with an XR282HR10 magnum cam, EPS or RPM intake, trick flow 213cc ported heads, and call it quits? OR there is the 370 c.i. sbc with the same although with 6" rods and 1.64:01 same as stock 350 rod ratio, and performer RPM intake. 40 gallon fuel tank in this one.
Sounds pretty awesome 😍
Hi Andrew from the land down under yeah Australia 🇦🇺
Mi change is a 6 cylinder in line overhead cam maximum power 2200 bhp
No way Americans will take the challenge
My 306 had rpm aluminum heads wth 1.90 intake valves. Weiland stealth, 650dp carb and comp 292H cam. Turned 7k everyday for 5 years until I sold it.
how much RWHP ?
@@eric5.080 never dynoed it. It had 3.73s and 5speed so maybe 300 wheel but was a fun street car. Took to 1/8 mile first pass trapped 91mph spinning. Second pass hooked hard broke an axle.
@@timmartin4798 do you know if Summit stroker kit is good? Or are the parts too Fragile?
@@oscarvillarreal8951 This is NOT a stroker!
@@evilinside5984 it's just a swap of parts then?
Everything goes right in these shows
I'm doing something similar with an Aussie 302 Cleveland, should be interesting to see how the results line up!
You guys know what you all are doing. Why did you skip measuring the main bores ? Did you trust how they looked and just assume that the ID was within tolerance ?
@6:40 "cast iron, aluminum heads?" how is that even possible???
Am I missing where it says which rotating assembly, cam, etc was used. I mean...some part numbers would help
Yes you did he said he used Summit racing value pack but considering how old this video is doubt it’s still available and they used a crane camshaft, crane cams are no longer available.
Boys make sure you vent both valve covers good show you did on this on this show
Man I would love to have that 306 for my 93 ranger.
im building a similar motor for my 94
@@Nico_Ford23 do you know if Summit stroker is good? Or is it fragile parts?
@@oscarvillarreal8951 I don’t know I used a scat assembly
Did I hear that right? Cast iron aluminum heads? Must be some hybrid I have never seen
2nd comment - Best Channel. Thanks for all the cheap tidbits at the end. Best key holder ever.
And its gonna rattle 🤣🤣
Totally Awesome Build
You blow 3 grand in speed parts but you still use 75 cent cork gaskets for the valve covers.?? 🤔
I used the cork gasket to give me more clearance for my stock valve covers since I’m running 1.6 roller rockers in my 87 ranger 5.0 swapped, works like a charm if you know how to use it 😂
They work... especially coated with black RTV...
@@BuzzLOLOL lol more like how to make them leak worse 😂😂
@@foxbodyguyeightyeight3672 - After 30 years you toss the old cork gaskets and put new ones on... IF the rest of the engine lasted that long...
@Zach Sheffee - Have to watch both of them to make sure they didn't slip...
Whaaatt!!! no Royal Purple ??
I guess the Purple Guys quit kicking up the $$
I wonder if you daily drive this build and only drag it on the weekends is it reliable. People have Mix feelings about the Summit stroker.
This is NOT a stroker!
Been using empty cases to punch holes in gaskets since I've been 16. I must be really smart or really cheap 🤔
Clever
Little mistake showing the longer 38 special cartridge as a 9mm, and the short 9mm as a 38. In reality, both of those would make almost exactly the same size 3/8" hole. Something like a 30-30 Winchester or other 30 caliber would be closer to 5/16". Not a bad idea, never really thought of it, but I got a set of hole punches from Harbor Freight many years ago for around $3 that have been great! Made me cringe when you punched the gasket directly on the red painted surface of the tool box!
Was gonna point that out about the casings but I knew if I scrolled the comments, it had already been done. Not many gun guys/reloaders are also car guys. You would think so but it's not as common as most might think.
YOU MADE A BEAUTY GUYS❤I LOVE I LOVE WATCHING YAWL BUILD THESE ENGINES 💪😎👍🙏😇🌄
Pull it and put an Aussie 302 Cleveland in it ! That would have people scratching their heads , Ford Australia made them from 1974 to 1984/5 ! Good running 302 Cleveland in Australia? About $1000 US , as they were hated here as they were swapped out for the 351C , grate engine the 302C , 6 inch fordged rods, closed chamber 2v style ports but all came with 4barrel carbies and manifold to line up with 2v port sizes , slap a set is US 4v 351c valves in those heads and you have the best Cleveland head around , it will fit anywhere a 302w will , same mounts, Bell housing ! It would be a different mustang for sure !
The 5/16" hole punch would be from 32 Caliber pistol brass or 30 caliber rifle brass. 9mm would be closer to 3/8". 38 special/357 Mag and 380 or 38 Super brass should get you even closer to 3/8".
Ah todays episode of "budget" parts cannon
Ive got a 91 ford f150 with the 302 in it. I’m trying to do basically the same thing. I’ve looked in summit racing and looked for some of these assembly kits. Do you have any recommendations?
Where I can find parts numbers of this combo/recipe? I would like to copy exact same build
Go with a 347ci stroker, makes more power..
@@P71ScrewHead do you know if this 306 summit stroker kit is reliable? Or are the parts too Fragile?
@@oscarvillarreal8951 all depends on what hp limit you plan on staying in.. Unless they're made of plastic, you should be good.. Also, find out your block's limit, n in my opinion I'd go with the biggest stroke possible, there's no replacement for displacement, good luck man..
I firmly believe that 302 is just as easy to get 400 as a Chevy tree fiddy.
When installing that camshaft plate you guys installed it backwards in this video
Where’s the video of the oiling upgrade you done to the block?
Still no response. I can’t find the episode of how u did it
Another year later n no response
You can put that on a key ring that's opens and closes and hang it any were on the upper grill or bumper area and you don't have to get on the ground
Muzzle discipline would've made the next section of this video better.. never point a barrel at you. laying down and unloaded or not
Use a melling 68a oil pump. 70 psi. Standard volumn.
I’ve been using a high volume oil pump with a stock pan in my 66 Stang for 39 years. No problem. 50 pounds at idle.
Lol that's a lot, what about at 5000rpm or more?
@@jasonhooey5677 hey man do you know if the 306 Summit stroker kit is good? Or is too Fragile?
Hey guys...great video Two questions. What carb did you use and what was your final base timing ? Was all in under 34 degrees or higher ? Thanks )oh I guess that was 3 questions..lol)
Watching in 2024, RIP Joe!!
A $3,000.00 upgrade kit! Maybe I'll just watch you guys put this upgrade in."Mustang Sally, u better slow your mustang down!"