This series is the perfect guide for my son and I building our first engine. It's so detailed and useful if anything goes wrong we'll be able to blame you two ;-) Unique presentation too, master mechanic teaching an apparent padawan and not the viewer. Very well done (or should I say, "SWEET!").
😆 Thanks Scott! We're glad you like our style! 😎 If you run into any questions on your build, we'd be glad to help if we can. Thanks for tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
Wow, thank you! We appreciate you watching! 👍 Here's a playlist with the whole assembly on this engine! ua-cam.com/play/PL3Xf8yWArPC5PU0ggR8zUnsD1JM3y1XSo.html
I have been searching everywhere for a thorough set of videos like these. So glad I came across this channel. Y'all are doing the UA-cam community a solid. Subscribed.
So my project is a 1996 jeep XJ I just pulled the 4.0 out and I have a 6.0 LS that I picked up out of a 2013 Silverado with around 100,000 miles on it screaming eagles but I just tore that apart and about to drop it off at the machine shop as .well, yeah that’s all exciting stuff. I enjoy watching different builders build engines. Thanks for the video peeps. This will be my first engine build, so wish me luck. Somehow I want to try to squeeze 600 horsepowers all motor. America 🇺🇸
You guys are definitely one of my favorite channels! Great detailed work with plenty of rhyme and reason in your explanation. You’re making me feel confident to jump off into building my own. Appreciate y’all, and be well. -Lance from Oklahoma.
Thank you guys for doing this for us and helping us get better and understand more about this engine rebuilds, I personally love the interaction you guys have and the way you give information at the same time, I will definitely will be watching more of your videos and thank you again….
Simply Amazing!!! I love this channel. This is by far the best LS engine build/swap information on all of you tube. Keep up the good work! By the way, when you send off the engine to the machine shop, is there a standard list of things you have them do to every LS block you send them? I have a complete pull out 6.0 and I want to rebuild it myself. I am mechanically inclined and can follow instructions on assembly like checking tolerance and clearance and things like that, but I have no knowledge beyond that. I'm sure I am not the only in this situation. Maybe you can include this information on your next LS rebuild video. Thanks in advance.
Thanks Mr. Pacino! 🤣 I take the engine block to them with the main caps and the side bolts for the mains. They will clean the block and then measure its cylinders for wear. Most LS blocks that I take in just end up needing deglazed and I can reuse the original pistons with a set of new rings... So keep your original pistons, rods, and caps in order. If it needs bored, they will let me know what the oversize will be and I buy what pistons I like and drop them off to them so it can be bored for those pistons. I also have them install the cam bearings. Some machine shops insist on installing the freeze plug kit themselves, which is fine. Hope this helps you out! If you have any other questions, let us know! Thanks for watching! --Jerry and Emily
Jerry was hilarious with the std joke, I think he was saving it for awhile. Love the every detail mentality and high speed editing with effects. You. Popped up on Facebook as people you may know so I friended you but I'm not very active on there. I'm watching at least 30 seconds of the commercials, you should bring that up more often. You definitely deserve it. Excellent content 👍
I'm ashamed to admit how long this fancy montage took to edit... ua-cam.com/video/jA3POdzz_e8/v-deo.html But I think it turned out pretty cool! Better than watching the same boring thing 8 times in a row! 🤣 I'm surprised more UA-camrs don't talk about the 30 second thing on ads. I'm a big fan of transparency and "breaking the fourth wall", but not everyone likes to talk about the behind the scenes stuff. 🤷♀️ We appreciate you, Bill!
Nobody shows the torque degree on rods, mains, and other parts. Great how to and in-depth for sure. Thank you - Tyler Southworth the Cummins Engine Technician
Very informative video. Love the attention to detail. I appreciate the work you two are putting in to making this content. I remember using plasti-gauge way back in high school shop class.
Excellent video.. I ordered my Roswell Rogaine to prevent running short on Alien Hair. As a second precaution I sourced Patience in A Bottle on AmaCon. Thanks for Sharing. All the Best to You And Yours.🎄
Kindly said. It’s hard to watch because the Yup every sentence directly into the microphone. After awhile I just couldn’t hear anything else and I wanted to get the information your sharing. I just think there’s an opportunity here to grow and satisfy the audience because you’re preaching the LS Gospel but my brain is being tested at the same time.
It's not the easiest thing to keep talking into a camera and not having some feedback from someone. We both get better as we go on and don't try to be annoying or distracting. I guess it is just our nature. Thanks for watching and commenting. We do appreciate it. Jerry and Emily.
Thanks for sharing. I slung it on to my smart Tv so it doesn’t say a watched it, but I did. All facts on your video. My aliens a one eyed purple peeps eaters. You got a new sub from me thanks.
This channel is fantastic! I’m attempting my first ls swap and your videos are amazing resources. Anyway to get a parts list and the list of grease and paints and everything else you’re using for the build. Including the piston rings and installer?
On this engine, we used a GM Genuine cam, lifters, trays, and pushrods. Sealed Power pistons and piston rings. Wiseco .020 over installer. Clevite bearings, Melling oil pump, Cloyes timing set. Lubriplate assembly grease, Rustoleum high temp primer, engine enamel. All of the engine parts should be available from Summit. Thanks for watching! 👋
Hello Roy. I will try to come up with a list. I had thought we had one on one of our other 6.0 builds, but I could be wrong. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
great video....very informative. This may be a dumb "?" but does the plastic lifter tray that you used to install the lifters,... does that actually stay in the motor?
Hey Kevin, yes surprisingly those plastic trays are a permanent piece. They're what keeps the lifters lined up in their spots. Thanks for watching! --Emily and Jerry
Thanks for the fast reply. The build doens't scare me at all. it's the dang wiring... looking to do a LS4 into my 97 jeep wrangler@@UglyTruckExperience
Thank you for great content. Can you clarify if the clearance you get after measuring with plastigauge or bore gauge has to be divided by two and then compares to the specs? I can't find this anywhere in the LS Factory Service Manual.
Sorry to just respond. Yes. That is very confusing. You are measuring the entire clearance with that plasti gauge and then dividing by two with the crank sitting on a dry bearing. Jerry
Hey Mikhail, I re read this, and I worded my answer wrong. You do NOT divide it by 2. We have another video coming up and I will explain that better. Sorry for the confusion. Jerry
I found your channel a few days ago looking for C10 LS swap info. It was cool to find out you are in my neck of the woods. I'm currently tearing down an lm7 and was wondering if you'd be willing to share which machine shop you used? I totally understand if you would prefer not to. Choosing a machine shop is always the most stressful part of a build for me.
We use Oriellys machine shop. They do good work. It takes forever but that is usually the case with any. They are close to our place also which is nice. Thanks. Jerry
Great channel love the content.. Im curious about how much was the machine work i have a 6.0 sitting and was thinking about attempting this..Thanks in advance
The total machine shop work was 936.00 That is polishing the crank. With any luck it might just need honed. That would save a bit. Thanks for watching and commenting. We appreciate it.
Painted! Always looks badass when an engine swap is paint detailed, and wiring done right and clean. Wish I was building one already! Nice job guys. Did your machine shop do anything to the heads? You said you’re gonna look at them, so I’m guessing the machine shop only gets them if you find a flaw. I always send heads in to get a fresh valve job and valve guides(if needed) when doing Aircooled VW or Subaru builds. Just curious…
The paint does look sweet! We had the machine shop clean and check these heads for cracks, and then resurface them. We'll have a video out shortly installing new valve guide seals, removing broken exhaust bolts, and getting them ready to bolt onto the engine. How's your knee?
@@UglyTruckExperience I started a reply, don’t know where it went! Thanks for remembering my awesome bad luck! Feels like someone famous recognized me for a change! I’m healing up, spent 4days in the hospital after surgery to fix my mess. Still limping around, got in my garage today and surveyed the scene. Made a mess! See the Dr tomorrow to (hopefully) get the dressings and staples/stitches removed. Then I can get dirty again….thanks for caring, means a lot! Keep up the rad work
"Famous" might be a bit of a stretch! 🤣🤣 My dad is having a knee replaced Friday, so I've been wondering about yours. Glad you're on the mend!! --Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience good luck to your father. It’s been a good experience other than the obvious speed bump…I definitely have much less knee pain post surgery vs pre surgery. Hardest part was getting the IV! Woke up, shook off some anesthesia, went home.
Do you have to rebalance the crank shaft on the lq4 if you upgrade to gen 4 pistons and rods will the weight difference throw it off ? Thanks and good content
It all depends on what you buy for rods and pistons. I am converting a Lq4 to a Lq9 right now and am changing to floating pins with flat top pistons that are heavier. I have the machine shop weigh them and do the math for me. I just trust their knowledge over my math skills. In the case of the one I'm doing now, I do have to have the crank balanced. Thanks for watching. We really appreciate it. Jerry and Emily
Love the videos. So when I rebuilt my 2005 6.0 LQ4, I got flat top pistons, and I put an RV cam in it, do I need to reprogram the computer for that small change, or does it not matter? Thanks for your expertise.
Most likely it will need to be tuned for that motor. You basically built a lq9 it sounds like. I wanted to do that on these but did not want to mess with tuning them. Let me know how it turns out.
I have 5.3 bored to 5.7, with domed pistons, and mild cam, and I want to use an F-body oil pan but I was wondering if the pump you are using would work or if I should go with a Melling high performance 10296
That high performance pump is pretty much the same as the regular m295hv. The performance one is a bit shorter, comes with a few different springs for pressure and has a anodized front cover for some reason. If you are going with stock pressure you might want to save the money and just get the regular HV pump. Thanks. Jerry
What can't you torque the bolts instead of using the degree dial? What is the real name of that degree dial? I've built engines but always just torqued everything. Thanks for the video.
I think they started using the degree method because it is more accurate due to different friction on the threads and bolt shoulders. On some applications you can buy ARP stud kits that just use regular torque. That tool is a Torque angle gauge. Thanks Gary
No, that was this same engine. It had a leaky fuel injector and filled a cylinder with fuel, and hydrolocked on start up. We've been accused of too much lube, but have never had an issue. Thanks for watching and commenting.
There is spec for them and it probably wouldn't be a bad Idea to check them. I have never had to file one. If the top and bottom ring had to have a bunch removed from them, I would probably take a closer look at all of them at that point. Thanks Dilin. Jerry
You mentioned that the minimum gap for ring 1 should be about .012 & about .020 for ring 2. Is there a maximum gap? I’m currently building a lq4 and so far cylinder 1 had a gap of .025 for ring 1 and .023 for ring 2. What should I do just so that I won’t worry about messing anything up 😅
@@UglyTruckExperience Honestly I couldn’t tell you which year it is because the engine was a core so I’m not sure what vehicle it came out of. I just know it’s a lq4 because it has dished pistons.
I’m rebuilding my engine for a high horsepower application, swapping a 1500 Silverado Classic into my Chevy trailblazer Lt both vehicles are the same year, and both vehicles are 2wd, should i get my 482 crank polished or should i be swapping the crank out as well for an upgrade? I’m going with a power adder (turbo) so ring gap, new pistons, arp studs, new lifters, rockers, trays, and a aggressive Brian Tooley truck Norris stage two cam, double springs, upgraded injectors do i need an upgraded fuel pump? So my question is upgrade my fuel pump? And or upgrade my crank shaft?
Hello Jah. The crank would depend on its condition. If you have a good machine shop that would measure it up and give you their expert advice that would be nice. If there is any doubt, I would replace it. Replacing the crank will also mean having to have it balanced. You will definitely need a higher flow fuel pump with that turbo and bigger injectors. Will be a quick trailblazer for sure. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience oh I was asking about the fuel pump because I just put a brand new fuel pump in there and also had my transmission built, so right now I just need my engine rebuilt, both top and bottom and a turbo to add more power. but you’re saying if I upgrade my fuel injectors, I will definitely have to upgrade my fuel pump right away or can that wait till later down the line?
It would just depend on what the rate of flow of the fuel pump you installed. Would depend on how much you are going to put your foot into it. Wouldn't want to run a turbocharged motor to lean. You would probably want to ask the person that will be tuning it. Jerry
Hello Jundug. I submerse them in oil and give them a few rotations before putting them on. Then torque them down. Having a film of oil between all the surfaces would help to center it. GM procedure is to just throw it on and torque it down. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience I noticed there was no locktite added to the bolts on the cam plate, oil pump, cam sprocket, is this what GM did...does locktite matter? I'm not a mechanic and trying to learn. Thank you for the videos, I'm just asking a question, not being critical.
These didn't have anything on them when I took them out. The cam plates on VVT engines are locktited, but the sprocket and oil pump bolts never are. My practice is, if it has locktite when I take it apart, I locktite it when I put it back. Thanks for your question! This is exactly why we started this channel. 👍
@@UglyTruckExperience Thanks for the answer! Also, thanks for the tip on extracting broken exhaust bolt w broken off drill bit in the broken bolt. I got it out!!! I'm looking forward to your next video on the heads :) This is a great channel. Thanks again.
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks. I made the mistake of not doing that so I just pulled it back apart to add some! Idk why it dawned on me but I’m glad it did.
Would it be wise to replace bearings and rings since i gave broken the engine down? Can i reuse the bolts? And do i have to have a special tools to do this job?
I reuse all of the bolts on a ls except for the head bolts. If you replace your rings you would need to have cylinders honed. New bearings are always nice. Thanks. Jerry
Sir jerry my engine stand is 2" 1/2 long the engine that is going on the engine stand is a 4.8 engine my question is can I use bolts from home depot or it got to be specific bolt for stong bolt sir
Hello! Would you be so kind as to link the rebuild kit part number? I bought a used engine and the cam is toasted. And it looks like they had it cracked open during a dirt bike race.... please help. I have a Vin N 6.0 lq9. Going in my 04 tahoe 🙏🙏 cams confuse me
The cam and lifter kit is a Melling CLMC1384. If it is that dirty inside I hope you are tearing it down and running it to a machine shop. They would take care of cam bearings and hopefully just a hone if cylinders are ok. I hope it goes good. I love the lq9. You have a great motor there. Jerry
In this motor I used Seal Power, all aluminum bearings. I will also use Genuine Gm on occasion and Mahle/Clevite. Have had no issues with any of these. Thank. Jerry
Monobloc de ocho silindros los silindros van inclunados para qe las balbulas sean orisontales y una leva travage dos balbulas al mismo tiempo, grasias buena catedra
OLA. Porto Alegre RS BR 09/01/24 Meus parabéns pelo carinho e competência que tratas os motores. O que percebi que provavelmente não está correto é o sistema de lubrificação deste motor. As Bronzinas de Mancais montadas não combinam com o restante do sistema de lubrificação. As bronzinas de Biela devem receber óleo de forma permanente e para que isso ocorra não vi o furo de lado a lado que deveria ter no Virabrequim, na posição mancal que permite a lubrificação permanente da biela. Na presente montagem a BB recebe somente 50% do óleo que devia receber. Conforme mudam os sistemas de lubrificação também mudam diversas características no bronzinamento de Biela e Mancais e as vezes até os pistões. ABRAÇOS... Roberto Udo Krapf
Hey Big Homie. I built that primer from a air conditioning cleaning tool. Here is a link to it. I had to adapt the end of the hose to the oil fitting on the engine block is all. Jerry owww.amazon.com/MR-CARTOOL-Conditioner-Tool-Evaporator/dp/B07W4HR6FH/ref=asc_df_B07W4HR6FH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693345903550&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12565184139038025088&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023777&hvtargid=pla-820588733515&psc=1&mcid=cb223c32977832c09fea55a87162be13&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_ZxwD_NwpfOnpGMbec87d6P7qLfyIxbJsIfv-em910L3iaztNLdKXmzRoCzvUQAvD_BwEf
Ripley, with the blue eyes, was given to us by some friends of ours. And Juice, the younger one, was given to us by a customer. They're good supervisors! 😁 Thanks for watching!
@@UglyTruckExperience you are right I looked and they are not cheap what I did came across were adapters but I’m not sure if those could work unfortunately I’m in a tight budget I do appreciate your help
They do make adapters to go from cathedral to rectangular port intakes. For the price I seen a while back, I would just buy another intake. The LS1 intake is a good intake if you’re decent power.
Can someone help me understand this piston ring gap ? This video shows the top ring gap minimum at : .012 for a 4.000 bore ? It also is saying ; .020 for second ring ? From several sources, including Hastings, the ring gaps on an ls lq4 6.0 with a stock 4.000 bore should be: bore-4.000x.004= 0.016 The second ring should be ; bore-4.000 x .0045=0.018 It is not making sense to me. Plus, the rings I took out of my 2001 lq4 6.0 were in the range of 0.25 - 0.28 , weird ! The block does not need bored, it checks out, so I am installing standard rings, but I do not want to screw this up, too ways to go on this. What is standard ? Thanks .
The ring gap in this video is from all data and comes up with .012 to .023 for the top ring and .020 and .030 for the second. If Hastings is saying .004 as a minimum spec, I am sure that would work. If you were worried about it or planning on running the engine hard you could run the minimum up to the .012 and still be within Hastings specs of .004 to .016. The specs on their second ring is tighter than the OEM specs, so in that case I would go with their high side spec which is close to .020 minimum. That is just my opinion of what I would run. Hastings probably has a pretty decent help number that could confirm their specs. They would know best for their rings I am sure. I hope that helps. Jerry
Hey Eric. Thanks for watching. That is Emily giving me some feedback to make it easier for me to keep talking. We don't try to drive people crazy and are getting better as we go along I think. We do appreciate you watching and commenting. Hang in there. You made it to 20 yeps. That's pretty impressive. Jerry
She actually does that in an effort to help me keep a flow going. She spends countless hours editing most of them out for us to put out this free content. Thanks for watching. The Old Man.
She does that to help me out Bryan. It is not easy to to just keep talking when you have a camera pointed at you and not have any feedback. We are both getting better at it and hope you give us a chance. Thanks for watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience sorry if I came across the wrong way. I just found it distracting from your drop of knowledge… almost like there’s more in there that I want to hear! My regards.
Thanks Curtis. There is definitely more in there. As we have been doing this we are getting a bit more comfortable talking into a camera and we always try to be improving. So, we really do appreciate hearing anything about our content whether it is good or bad. Thanks. Jerry
This series is the perfect guide for my son and I building our first engine. It's so detailed and useful if anything goes wrong we'll be able to blame you two ;-)
Unique presentation too, master mechanic teaching an apparent padawan and not the viewer. Very well done (or should I say, "SWEET!").
😆 Thanks Scott! We're glad you like our style! 😎 If you run into any questions on your build, we'd be glad to help if we can. Thanks for tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
i have watched 2 dozen 6.0 builds and this is the best i have seen. great job, thank you.
Wow, thank you! We appreciate you watching! 👍 Here's a playlist with the whole assembly on this engine! ua-cam.com/play/PL3Xf8yWArPC5PU0ggR8zUnsD1JM3y1XSo.html
I have been searching everywhere for a thorough set of videos like these. So glad I came across this channel. Y'all are doing the UA-cam community a solid. Subscribed.
Thanks Marco! We're glad you found us, and thanks for subscribing! Emily and Jerry
So my project is a 1996 jeep XJ I just pulled the 4.0 out and I have a 6.0 LS that I picked up out of a 2013 Silverado with around 100,000 miles on it screaming eagles but I just tore that apart and about to drop it off at the machine shop as .well, yeah that’s all exciting stuff. I enjoy watching different builders build engines. Thanks for the video peeps. This will be my first engine build, so wish me luck. Somehow I want to try to squeeze 600 horsepowers all motor.
America 🇺🇸
That sounds like an awesome project! Keep us posted! 👍👍 We appreciate you tuning in!
How’d the build go man?
Outstanding step by step video. Great work!
Thanks Johnny! We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
You guys are definitely one of my favorite channels! Great detailed work with plenty of rhyme and reason in your explanation. You’re making me feel confident to jump off into building my own. Appreciate y’all, and be well.
-Lance from Oklahoma.
Thanks so much, Lance! That's great to hear! Be sure to keep us posted on your project!
I just picked up a 2002 6.0 from the machine shop. Thought they were assembling it. lol. But I am. Following you step by step.
Hate when that happens! 😆 Thanks Scott! We appreciate you watching our stuff!
Thank you guys for doing this for us and helping us get better and understand more about this engine rebuilds, I personally love the interaction you guys have and the way you give information at the same time, I will definitely will be watching more of your videos and thank you again….
Thanks so much for your comment, Alfonso! We appreciate you watching our stuff! --Emily and Jerry
Simply Amazing!!! I love this channel. This is by far the best LS engine build/swap information on all of you tube. Keep up the good work! By the way, when you send off the engine to the machine shop, is there a standard list of things you have them do to every LS block you send them? I have a complete pull out 6.0 and I want to rebuild it myself. I am mechanically inclined and can follow instructions on assembly like checking tolerance and clearance and things like that, but I have no knowledge beyond that. I'm sure I am not the only in this situation. Maybe you can include this information on your next LS rebuild video. Thanks in advance.
Thanks Mr. Pacino! 🤣 I take the engine block to them with the main caps and the side bolts for the mains. They will clean the block and then measure its cylinders for wear. Most LS blocks that I take in just end up needing deglazed and I can reuse the original pistons with a set of new rings... So keep your original pistons, rods, and caps in order. If it needs bored, they will let me know what the oversize will be and I buy what pistons I like and drop them off to them so it can be bored for those pistons. I also have them install the cam bearings. Some machine shops insist on installing the freeze plug kit themselves, which is fine. Hope this helps you out! If you have any other questions, let us know! Thanks for watching! --Jerry and Emily
Jerry was hilarious with the std joke, I think he was saving it for awhile. Love the every detail mentality and high speed editing with effects. You. Popped up on Facebook as people you may know so I friended you but I'm not very active on there. I'm watching at least 30 seconds of the commercials, you should bring that up more often. You definitely deserve it. Excellent content 👍
I'm ashamed to admit how long this fancy montage took to edit... ua-cam.com/video/jA3POdzz_e8/v-deo.html But I think it turned out pretty cool! Better than watching the same boring thing 8 times in a row! 🤣 I'm surprised more UA-camrs don't talk about the 30 second thing on ads. I'm a big fan of transparency and "breaking the fourth wall", but not everyone likes to talk about the behind the scenes stuff. 🤷♀️ We appreciate you, Bill!
Can't get any better then a small block 6.0L LS w/ LQ4 Cam.
Thanks for tuning in!
Sweet
This is a great video for some like me who has crazy anxiety. Good thing to follow along at a very steady pace. Thank you.
Thanks Shark! It's really not too bad if you break it into bite sized chunks. We appreciate you watching! --Emily and Jerry
Thank you guys for sharing your talents makes it easy great teaching
We appreciate you watching our stuff! 👋
I love your videos, so informative and easy to follow along
Nobody shows the torque degree on rods, mains, and other parts. Great how to and in-depth for sure. Thank you - Tyler Southworth the Cummins Engine Technician
Thanks Tyler! We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
My 1st time ever commenting on any show but she's funny and your teaching Babygirl well...Love you guy's Reggie
Thanks Reggie! Jerry is actually my husband, but I am definitely lucky to have someone to teach me this stuff! We appreciate you watching! --Emily
Very informative video. Love the attention to detail. I appreciate the work you two are putting in to making this content. I remember using plasti-gauge way back in high school shop class.
Thanks so much, Rob! We appreciate you watching!
Excellent video.. I ordered my Roswell Rogaine to prevent running short on Alien Hair. As a second precaution I sourced Patience in A Bottle on AmaCon. Thanks for Sharing. All the Best to You And Yours.🎄
🤣🤣 Thanks Ray Bann! Same to you! 🎄
best ls swap videos keep sharing,hope there will be a ls swap on g body soon.
Thanks George! We haven't had a chance to swap a G body yet. We appreciate you watching! Emily and Jerry
Kindly said. It’s hard to watch because the Yup every sentence directly into the microphone. After awhile I just couldn’t hear anything else and I wanted to get the information your sharing. I just think there’s an opportunity here to grow and satisfy the audience because you’re preaching the LS Gospel but my brain is being tested at the same time.
It's not the easiest thing to keep talking into a camera and not having some feedback from someone. We both get better as we go on and don't try to be annoying or distracting. I guess it is just our nature. Thanks for watching and commenting. We do appreciate it. Jerry and Emily.
Nobody don’t care about you boy this man worked dreams with this video thanks youuu!! I got a 6.0 l77 ls will this same thing apply for the most part?
Well put.
yeah that kills me too, good video but that was hard to ignore
He’s teaching her, and she’s respectfully giving her full attention. Easy to tune out, I’m doing the same thing g she is lol
Thanks for sharing. I slung it on to my smart Tv so it doesn’t say a watched it, but I did. All facts on your video. My aliens a one eyed purple peeps eaters. You got a new sub from me thanks.
Thank you Sam. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
Just came across your channel and I’m loving it.
We're glad you found us! Thanks for watching!
@@UglyTruckExperiencee
This channel is fantastic! I’m attempting my first ls swap and your videos are amazing resources. Anyway to get a parts list and the list of grease and paints and everything else you’re using for the build. Including the piston rings and installer?
On this engine, we used a GM Genuine cam, lifters, trays, and pushrods. Sealed Power pistons and piston rings. Wiseco .020 over installer. Clevite bearings, Melling oil pump, Cloyes timing set. Lubriplate assembly grease, Rustoleum high temp primer, engine enamel. All of the engine parts should be available from Summit. Thanks for watching! 👋
Great build! K
Thanks David! We appreciate you tuning in!
Nice wrk i just did 1 for tha first time stage 2 cam new timing chain springs had the 1 up both dots match so i hope it wrk 🙏🏼
Thanks Bigghomie. Both of the dots pointing straight up will work just fine. Let us know how it goes. Jerry and Emily
Very nice!!!! Love the content and the videos. Thank you
Thanks Hugh! Did you get your headlamp?
Not yet. I am going to jorder one this week.
Todo bien vatos saludos asi se hace
Estan chingonas las laminas de las marcas y en especial esa de chevy gracias good job
¡Gracias Samuel! ¡Gracias por ver nuestro video! 👋
Love the UA-cam videos, thank you from New Hampshire 🙂
We appreciate you watching! 👋👋
@@UglyTruckExperience love the LS swaps, working through mine now 🙂
Awesome job by you both. Have a 2004 GMC Yukon 6.0 . Need to do mine. Can you recommend parts to do the rebuild?
Hello Roy. I will try to come up with a list. I had thought we had one on one of our other 6.0 builds, but I could be wrong. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience Thank you,I have a lifter tick and 200 thousand plus miles so going to have to get done soon.
great video....very informative. This may be a dumb "?" but does the plastic lifter tray that you used to install the lifters,... does that actually stay in the motor?
Hey Kevin, yes surprisingly those plastic trays are a permanent piece. They're what keeps the lifters lined up in their spots. Thanks for watching! --Emily and Jerry
Thanks for the fast reply. The build doens't scare me at all. it's the dang wiring... looking to do a LS4 into my 97 jeep wrangler@@UglyTruckExperience
My 1993 lq9 obs thanks you !
And we thank you for watching! 👍👍
Thank you for great content. Can you clarify if the clearance you get after measuring with plastigauge or bore gauge has to be divided by two and then compares to the specs? I can't find this anywhere in the LS Factory Service Manual.
Sorry to just respond. Yes. That is very confusing. You are measuring the entire clearance with that plasti gauge and then dividing by two with the crank sitting on a dry bearing. Jerry
Hey Mikhail, I re read this, and I worded my answer wrong. You do NOT divide it by 2. We have another video coming up and I will explain that better. Sorry for the confusion. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Appreciate it!
A while build thanks yall rock❤💪🏾
Changing me pistons heads not the rods on 5.3 do you think i need to change the crankshaft
What are you using for pistons? Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience coated forged dome pro LS pistons
You don't need to change the crankshaft but you will have to have it balanced for those pistons. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks
I found your channel a few days ago looking for C10 LS swap info. It was cool to find out you are in my neck of the woods. I'm currently tearing down an lm7 and was wondering if you'd be willing to share which machine shop you used? I totally understand if you would prefer not to. Choosing a machine shop is always the most stressful part of a build for me.
We use Oriellys machine shop. They do good work. It takes forever but that is usually the case with any. They are close to our place also which is nice. Thanks. Jerry
Yep!
Ok, so! 🤣 Thanks for tuning in, Kenny! --Emily and Jerry
Great channel love the content.. Im curious about how much was the machine work i have a 6.0 sitting and was thinking about attempting this..Thanks in advance
The total machine shop work was 936.00 That is polishing the crank. With any luck it might just need honed. That would save a bit. Thanks for watching and commenting. We appreciate it.
Painted! Always looks badass when an engine swap is paint detailed, and wiring done right and clean. Wish I was building one already! Nice job guys. Did your machine shop do anything to the heads? You said you’re gonna look at them, so I’m guessing the machine shop only gets them if you find a flaw. I always send heads in to get a fresh valve job and valve guides(if needed) when doing Aircooled VW or Subaru builds. Just curious…
The paint does look sweet! We had the machine shop clean and check these heads for cracks, and then resurface them. We'll have a video out shortly installing new valve guide seals, removing broken exhaust bolts, and getting them ready to bolt onto the engine. How's your knee?
@@UglyTruckExperience I started a reply, don’t know where it went! Thanks for remembering my awesome bad luck! Feels like someone famous recognized me for a change! I’m healing up, spent 4days in the hospital after surgery to fix my mess. Still limping around, got in my garage today and surveyed the scene. Made a mess! See the Dr tomorrow to (hopefully) get the dressings and staples/stitches removed. Then I can get dirty again….thanks for caring, means a lot! Keep up the rad work
"Famous" might be a bit of a stretch! 🤣🤣 My dad is having a knee replaced Friday, so I've been wondering about yours. Glad you're on the mend!! --Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience good luck to your father. It’s been a good experience other than the obvious speed bump…I definitely have much less knee pain post surgery vs pre surgery. Hardest part was getting the IV! Woke up, shook off some anesthesia, went home.
@@UglyTruckExperience Merry Christmas y’all!! Hope your dad’s surgery went well, best wishes to everyone
Yep 100% calling the plastigage alien hair from now on 🤣
Really enjoying the videos btw. You guys do awesome work and are very informative.
Thank you Daniel. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
Do you have to rebalance the crank shaft on the lq4 if you upgrade to gen 4 pistons and rods will the weight difference throw it off ? Thanks and good content
It all depends on what you buy for rods and pistons. I am converting a Lq4 to a Lq9 right now and am changing to floating pins with flat top pistons that are heavier. I have the machine shop weigh them and do the math for me. I just trust their knowledge over my math skills. In the case of the one I'm doing now, I do have to have the crank balanced. Thanks for watching. We really appreciate it. Jerry and Emily
Love the videos. So when I rebuilt my 2005 6.0 LQ4, I got flat top pistons, and I put an RV cam in it, do I need to reprogram the computer for that small change, or does it not matter? Thanks for your expertise.
Most likely it will need to be tuned for that motor. You basically built a lq9 it sounds like. I wanted to do that on these but did not want to mess with tuning them. Let me know how it turns out.
@UglyTruckExperience thank you for your response, Jerry. I do appreciate your expert opinion.
I have 5.3 bored to 5.7, with domed pistons, and mild cam, and I want to use an F-body oil pan but I was wondering if the pump you are using would work or if I should go with a Melling high performance 10296
That high performance pump is pretty much the same as the regular m295hv. The performance one is a bit shorter, comes with a few different springs for pressure and has a anodized front cover for some reason. If you are going with stock pressure you might want to save the money and just get the regular HV pump. Thanks. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience thank you 👍
Jerry like your channel sir just wanted to know the bolt you're using for the engine stand what size is it
Great video
Thanks! We appreciate you watching!
What can't you torque the bolts instead of using the degree dial? What is the real name of that degree dial? I've built engines but always just torqued everything. Thanks for the video.
I think they started using the degree method because it is more accurate due to different friction on the threads and bolt shoulders. On some applications you can buy ARP stud kits that just use regular torque. That tool is a Torque angle gauge. Thanks Gary
Nice job guys
Thanks Trent!
u deserves more views guys !!!
Thanks Gustavo! Tell your friends! 😁
You mentioned you hydro locked your last 6.0. It wasn't from using to much pre lube was it? To much of anything can be bad.
No, that was this same engine. It had a leaky fuel injector and filled a cylinder with fuel, and hydrolocked on start up. We've been accused of too much lube, but have never had an issue. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@UglyTruckExperience love your show
Are you reusing connecting rod bolts. Or replacing them
I am reusing them on these. Jerry
"What do you think ill do now?" Spray it some more?... 😂
😆😆 Thanks for watching, Brian!
Also, do you not need to gap the bottom two thinner rings?
There is spec for them and it probably wouldn't be a bad Idea to check them. I have never had to file one. If the top and bottom ring had to have a bunch removed from them, I would probably take a closer look at all of them at that point. Thanks Dilin. Jerry
Did Jerry bump his head pulling one of those 6.0l's. Everybody knows aliens don't have hair! Lol!
I'm pretty sure the female aliens do. I have one of them trapped in the office right now editing our next video.
You mentioned that the minimum gap for ring 1 should be about .012 & about .020 for ring 2. Is there a maximum gap? I’m currently building a lq4 and so far cylinder 1 had a gap of .025 for ring 1 and .023 for ring 2.
What should I do just so that I won’t worry about messing anything up 😅
Alldata says the maximum gap for ring number 1 would be .020 and .030 for the second ring. What year engine is this?
@@UglyTruckExperience Honestly I couldn’t tell you which year it is because the engine was a core so I’m not sure what vehicle it came out of. I just know it’s a lq4 because it has dished pistons.
yep. yes. lol just buggin. awesome vids.
🤣😁 Thanks for watching!
Just pour a Babette bearing Jerry, that'll get them talking lol.
I am not familiar with that. Give me a.lesson on it if you have a moment. Thanks
I’m rebuilding my engine for a high horsepower application, swapping a 1500 Silverado Classic into my Chevy trailblazer Lt both vehicles are the same year, and both vehicles are 2wd, should i get my 482 crank polished or should i be swapping the crank out as well for an upgrade? I’m going with a power adder (turbo) so ring gap, new pistons, arp studs, new lifters, rockers, trays, and a aggressive Brian Tooley truck Norris stage two cam, double springs, upgraded injectors do i need an upgraded fuel pump? So my question is upgrade my fuel pump? And or upgrade my crank shaft?
Hello Jah. The crank would depend on its condition. If you have a good machine shop that would measure it up and give you their expert advice that would be nice. If there is any doubt, I would replace it. Replacing the crank will also mean having to have it balanced. You will definitely need a higher flow fuel pump with that turbo and bigger injectors. Will be a quick trailblazer for sure. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience oh I was asking about the fuel pump because I just put a brand new fuel pump in there and also had my transmission built, so right now I just need my engine rebuilt, both top and bottom and a turbo to add more power. but you’re saying if I upgrade my fuel injectors, I will definitely have to upgrade my fuel pump right away or can that wait till later down the line?
It would just depend on what the rate of flow of the fuel pump you installed. Would depend on how much you are going to put your foot into it. Wouldn't want to run a turbocharged motor to lean. You would probably want to ask the person that will be tuning it. Jerry
Yup
I have a new HV oil pump? Does it have to be shimmed? Or i can just put it on. It’s not melling or anything special.
Hello Jundug. I submerse them in oil and give them a few rotations before putting them on. Then torque them down. Having a film of oil between all the surfaces would help to center it. GM procedure is to just throw it on and torque it down. Jerry
The alien conversation had me laughing! I'm just wondering if the "Corns" unit of measure started after Roswell? Great detail on the video.
Thanks Jason. That is a great question. The corns unit of measuring might be the next step for them to get here. Thanks for the insight. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience I noticed there was no locktite added to the bolts on the cam plate, oil pump, cam sprocket, is this what GM did...does locktite matter? I'm not a mechanic and trying to learn. Thank you for the videos, I'm just asking a question, not being critical.
These didn't have anything on them when I took them out. The cam plates on VVT engines are locktited, but the sprocket and oil pump bolts never are. My practice is, if it has locktite when I take it apart, I locktite it when I put it back. Thanks for your question! This is exactly why we started this channel. 👍
@@UglyTruckExperience Thanks for the answer! Also, thanks for the tip on extracting broken exhaust bolt w broken off drill bit in the broken bolt. I got it out!!! I'm looking forward to your next video on the heads :) This is a great channel. Thanks again.
Awesome! Glad it worked! 👍👍
Beautiful redhead lady 😊
I agree with you. Thanks for watching. Jerry
Did you use loctite on the thrust plate bolts?
Yes. Blue Loctite for sure. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks. I made the mistake of not doing that so I just pulled it back apart to add some! Idk why it dawned on me but I’m glad it did.
Nice work. You will be glad that you did that extra work. It would have leaked oil for sure at some point. Jerry
Would it be wise to replace bearings and rings since i gave broken the engine down? Can i reuse the bolts? And do i have to have a special tools to do this job?
I reuse all of the bolts on a ls except for the head bolts. If you replace your rings you would need to have cylinders honed. New bearings are always nice. Thanks. Jerry
The only special tool would be ring installer and torque angle gauge
And yup
Cool
Sir jerry my engine stand is 2" 1/2 long the engine that is going on the engine stand is a 4.8 engine my question is can I use bolts from home depot or it got to be specific bolt for stong bolt sir
Yes, you would need to use 8.8 or 10.9 Grade bolts. I get mine at Menards.
You did not degree the camshaft. Or did you not show it?
Did not degree cam. It is its original crank with stock cam. Thanks for commenting. Jerry
Hello! Would you be so kind as to link the rebuild kit part number? I bought a used engine and the cam is toasted. And it looks like they had it cracked open during a dirt bike race.... please help. I have a Vin N 6.0 lq9. Going in my 04 tahoe 🙏🙏 cams confuse me
Hello Dilin. Will send you some info this coming week. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience thank you so much!
The cam and lifter kit is a Melling CLMC1384. If it is that dirty inside I hope you are tearing it down and running it to a machine shop. They would take care of cam bearings and hopefully just a hone if cylinders are ok. I hope it goes good. I love the lq9. You have a great motor there. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks a ton! Cheers!!
Are these standard or oversize piston
If I remember correctly, these are .020 oversized pistons. Thanks for watching! --Emily
What brand of bearings do you use?
In this motor I used Seal Power, all aluminum bearings. I will also use Genuine Gm on occasion and Mahle/Clevite. Have had no issues with any of these. Thank. Jerry
Monobloc de ocho silindros los silindros van inclunados para qe las balbulas sean orisontales y una leva travage dos balbulas al mismo tiempo, grasias buena catedra
Gracias Higi! Apreciamos que veas el video!
Va hacentar el arvol de levas tiene dos bujes maestros en los extremos
OLA. Porto Alegre RS BR 09/01/24 Meus parabéns pelo carinho e competência que tratas os motores. O que percebi que provavelmente não está correto é o sistema de lubrificação deste motor. As Bronzinas de Mancais montadas não combinam com o restante do sistema de lubrificação. As bronzinas de Biela devem receber óleo de forma permanente e para que isso ocorra não vi o furo de lado a lado que deveria ter no Virabrequim, na posição mancal que permite a lubrificação permanente da biela. Na presente montagem a BB recebe somente 50% do óleo que devia receber. Conforme mudam os sistemas de lubrificação também mudam diversas características no bronzinamento de Biela e Mancais e as vezes até os pistões. ABRAÇOS... Roberto Udo Krapf
Hey how you guys doin
Want prime my motor for oil what was that toy he made & u have a link or anywhere i can get it
Hey Big Homie. I built that primer from a air conditioning cleaning tool. Here is a link to it. I had to adapt the end of the hose to the oil fitting on the engine block is all. Jerry owww.amazon.com/MR-CARTOOL-Conditioner-Tool-Evaporator/dp/B07W4HR6FH/ref=asc_df_B07W4HR6FH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693345903550&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12565184139038025088&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023777&hvtargid=pla-820588733515&psc=1&mcid=cb223c32977832c09fea55a87162be13&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_ZxwD_NwpfOnpGMbec87d6P7qLfyIxbJsIfv-em910L3iaztNLdKXmzRoCzvUQAvD_BwEf
@UglyTruckExperience thanks alot 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽
Where'd you get your aussies?
Ripley, with the blue eyes, was given to us by some friends of ours. And Juice, the younger one, was given to us by a customer. They're good supervisors! 😁 Thanks for watching!
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks, I am looking to get one and wanted one from your breeder! the hunt continues. love the content
I am old school ... so a 6L is 370 cu inches or so??🙃
366.142 according to Google! 🤣 Thanks for watching, Anthony!
@@UglyTruckExperience ahhh... close enough😂😂😂❤️
plastic guage reading is 'total clearance'
That's right! We could have done a better job of explaining that in this video. Thanks for tuning in, Zachary! --Emily and Jerry
It is reading .003 clearance, out of spec..😮
I have seen to much lube cost an engine. Prime example here
Can you use an ls3 intake manifold on a ls1
I believe ls3 cylinder heads are all rectangular port manifolds, ls1 is cathedral so it would not fit. Thanks
@@UglyTruckExperience thank you I appreciate your response the ls1 manifold is too tall and the hood won’t clear the manifold
You might have to try to find a corvette manifold or go aftermarket. There are a good number of aftermarket but they are pricey of course.
@@UglyTruckExperience you are right I looked and they are not cheap what I did came across were adapters but I’m not sure if those could work unfortunately I’m in a tight budget I do appreciate your help
They do make adapters to go from cathedral to rectangular port intakes. For the price I seen a while back, I would just buy another intake. The LS1 intake is a good intake if you’re decent power.
Andreanne Turnpike
Can someone help me understand this piston ring gap ? This video shows the top ring gap minimum at : .012 for a 4.000 bore ? It also is saying ; .020 for second ring ?
From several sources, including Hastings, the ring gaps on an ls lq4 6.0 with a stock 4.000 bore should be: bore-4.000x.004= 0.016
The second ring should be ; bore-4.000 x .0045=0.018 It is not making sense to me.
Plus, the rings I took out of my 2001 lq4 6.0 were in the range of 0.25 - 0.28 , weird ! The block does not need bored, it checks out, so I am installing standard rings, but I do not want to screw this up, too ways to go on this. What is standard ? Thanks .
The ring gap in this video is from all data and comes up with .012 to .023 for the top ring and .020 and .030 for the second. If Hastings is saying .004 as a minimum spec, I am sure that would work. If you were worried about it or planning on running the engine hard you could run the minimum up to the .012 and still be within Hastings specs of .004 to .016. The specs on their second ring is tighter than the OEM specs, so in that case I would go with their high side spec which is close to .020 minimum. That is just my opinion of what I would run. Hastings probably has a pretty decent help number that could confirm their specs. They would know best for their rings I am sure. I hope that helps. Jerry
okay.
hi late but here sorry
Hi Alonso!
Part number for hardware would help
On this engine, we reused all of the hardware except the head bolts and crank bolt. Was there something specific you needed a part number for?
👍👍🚒
😎😎
Love your videos ❤
Thanks so much, Slayer! We appreciate you watching! --Emily and Jerry
I almost quit watching after the 20th yep.
Hey Eric. Thanks for watching. That is Emily giving me some feedback to make it easier for me to keep talking. We don't try to drive people crazy and are getting better as we go along I think. We do appreciate you watching and commenting. Hang in there. You made it to 20 yeps. That's pretty impressive. Jerry
Hey Little girl, u don't have to say anything every time old man makes a statement lol it's annoying
She actually does that in an effort to help me keep a flow going. She spends countless hours editing most of them out for us to put out this free content. Thanks for watching. The Old Man.
Even the tiniest torque cam is going to give you 30hp. Cams that add 60-70 hp are extremely street able. Sorry this build gets a Big L.
Thanks big L. We don't get to choose what we do in them for cams. The people that own the truck make that decision. Thanks for watching. Jerry
Someone put a piece of tape over the filmers mouth please. Gosh dang
She does that to help me out Bryan. It is not easy to to just keep talking when you have a camera pointed at you and not have any feedback. We are both getting better at it and hope you give us a chance. Thanks for watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience hey I’m just here running my mouth haha. You keep doing your thing it’s working for you
Will do. Thank you..
Stop saying yup and okay every time he speaks
She actually does that to help me keep going. Most of them get edited out. We appreciate your feedback and thanks for watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience sorry if I came across the wrong way. I just found it distracting from your drop of knowledge… almost like there’s more in there that I want to hear! My regards.
Thanks Curtis. There is definitely more in there. As we have been doing this we are getting a bit more comfortable talking into a camera and we always try to be improving. So, we really do appreciate hearing anything about our content whether it is good or bad. Thanks. Jerry
Awesome video ❤
Yup
Yup
Yup
Yup
Yup
I think your getting the idea. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily