How to install a BLTouch v2.2 or older on a Creality CR-10s Pro
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2019
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contact@3dprintingcanada.com THIS TUTORIAL ONLY WORKS WITH A BLTOUCH v2.2 OR OLDER.
The wait is over! The highly anticipated BLTouch installation video for the CR-10s Pro is finally done. Jason walks us through this easy installation process.
Notes:
BLTouch mount by siteswapjugglers from here:
www.thingivers...
Then install insanity automation/Tiny Machines fork of Marlin. available here:
github.com/Ins...
Be sure to uncomment line 93, for the BLTouch
Also, flash the LCD screen using the DWIN folder from here:
github.com/Ins...
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Follow Us On Social Media:
Facebook: / 3dprintingcanada
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Our Address:
36 Ditton Dr., Unit #3
Hamilton, Ontario
L8W 0A9
Telephone:
+1 (905) 963-9066
Sales Email:
contact@3dprintingcanada.com - Наука та технологія
I've tried every trick in the book for the stock sensor. I just love it when the sensor has no idea where z-stop is and it plunges the nozzle into the bed, compresses the bed springs and starts grinding the stepper. It seems like that's really good for the printer. On top of that, I love fussing with the sensor for about 45 minutes and a few failed first layers before I'm somewhat successful only to have the print fall over 1/2 way thru printing because it wasn't just quite low enough. All the grooves the nozzle has carved on my bed is a nice touch. /sarc. BLTouch is on the way.
That has happened to you too?!? My bltouch just showed up!! Hope this fixes our issues.
@@jamesrobinson6010BLTouch isn't going to work just yet, unless you acquire the bugfix. Z-stop not working with v3 and Marlin. Look in the comments on this video for more info.
Yup, my stock sensor did the same thing. I did just order a BL Touch from 3D Printing Canada two + weeks ago, website says newest version, board says V3, any update on if this will actually work with my printer, i'm done fighting wiht this dam stock sensor
@@mattmcguire348 this video says this is for V2.2 OR older, the v3 you have to do a lot of work to make it work, again read below.
@@jlhR2 yup, my post was before they changed the title of the vid :-( but they did take my faulty V3 back and send me 2 of the lastest ones. Great support from these guys, i'll be back for sure!
Hi 3D printing Canada !
I just can't tell how gratefull I am for this last great upgrade...
My machine now runs awsome and all my first layers as well as global prints' repetability are just amazing ! Thanks for the content ! Kind regards from France 😉👍
I'm glad you like the videos!
Even though this is an older video perhaps you could update the Firmware for the Screen and Board as the links no longer work? This is still a great tutorial and deserves an update.
Thank you.
Installed my BlTouch last night and it went smooth once I figured out my stupid mistake with the extension cable. Only side note I would bring up is to install the sensor to the mount first then install the mount to the carriage. When I tried to follow the video I could not install the sensor in the mount because of the nuts being in the way. This sensor fixed all of my bed leveling problems.
Nicely done. Just finished mine. Finally getting perfect first layers for the first time!
Hi 3D Printing Canada, is there any chance of making an updated video tutorial on the installation of the BLTouch 3.X on the CR-10S Pro particularly with the Tiny Machines B7 Firmware. Thanks
It will be released next Thursday!
3D Printing Canada thank you 😊👍
Hi, what's the link for the video? I have the cr-10s pro V2 with bltouch installed already. Just need to know how to flash the firmware. Many thanks
I appreciate the detail of your explanations on this channel. Even though I don't have this printer, I better understand z-offset setting to do it on my printer. You wouldn't believe the number of videos I've watched that gloss over it or don't give accurate details about it. Thank you! Off to reinstall my BLTouch and properly set the z-offset.
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad this helped you
Jason , it a good video, but my version 2.2 BL Touch didn’t even light up. The version of Marlin doesn’t match the Creality version that came with the Tiny Machine upgrade. I don’t see the “define Machine” statement in my version of Marlin (ver. 2016). Can you please help.
@@stevenburks6434 I'd contact TM. V 2016 isn't a marlin version (v 1.1.9 or v2.0 is)
Did you go get the source from the Insanity automation GitHub as shown?
Jason
Yes. I’ve gotten the sensor to power up, but it isn’t being recognized by the board. Any ideas?
@@stevenburks6434 if you answer my previous questions. What firmware are you running (exactly), how have you connected the bl touch, have you posted on the github for the firmware?
If your Signal is going into D11 why not plug Power and Ground into the D11's power and ground?
I'm completely confused how it should be wired. You point to 3 pins. Say which ones to plug it into. Then you plug them in somewhere else and the diagram is different too. Can someone share with me how it's supposed to be wired?
Just wondering why you connect the bltouch wire into the control box. Is it possible to connect it on the board near the filament out sensor? I watched a video replacing the capacitive sensor with an inductive and they connected the sensor to the board at the filament out sensor. Just curious because I want to change mine out for a touch but it would be much easier to use the board at the extruder.
For all of the BLTouch V3 users I see around, there has been a ton following the new revision sensors. It has a 1.6mm longer stroke, open collector mode as 32bit boards with 3.3v logic become more common, and a couple new servo commands. For the first revision of these sensors, a 1kohm resistor is needed between the red and white wires for them to function with the B6 firmware build developed between Insanity Automation (myself) and Tinymachines. 3DPC sent me a sensor to work on, and this was the only resolution we could find for these machines. For the new V3.0 sensors manufactured from now on, they will work with the new firmware without any extra hardware.
For the technically curious, the output impedence from the sensor is quite low in legacy mode (5v drain) and causes the signal to fail to rise above the logic level threshold on some boards that do not have strong enough endstop pullups. Adding an additional pullup resistor brings the signal up to the logic level. The new revision increases the output impedance so that it no longer requires the resistor on weaker boards.
github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/13345
github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/Creality_DWINTest
Im not planning on publishing new hex files at the moment. Development is focusing on getting this touchscreen working under Marlin 2.0 with the ExtUI API encapsulating its function so it no longer needs to touch Marlin internals to work.
Thanks for the info!!
Now to get a couple 1kohm resistors for the red and white wires and see if I can get my Creality CR-10s Pro back up and running.
Antclabs got back to me and really recommends removing the capacitor instead of adding the resistors. They sent this link: www.antclabs.com/wiring3-1. I'm thinking about trying that tonight instead.
@@RobertStebler Does this also count for the cr10-s pro? or only the ender 3? and did you test it?
@@RobertStebler You did it?
@@kuksinsky I tried removing the capacitor with no luck on tiny machines firmware. I then tried the 470ohm resistors with no luck. Was then going to try the 1kohm resistors but needed the printer so put the original sensor back on and tried something else I had read about lowering it to just above the hotend and that works pretty darn good. I figured I'd go back to the bltouch once things are a little more worked out and firmware fully supporting it.
Nice review and walk through
Thanks for sharing👍😀
great video i got my bltouch from 3d printing canada because of this video and i having the same problem all the cr10s pro owners are having follow the video to the letter and then seeing the hotend crash into the bed in the video he doesn't say what version of bltouch he using in the video and they only sell v3.0 on the web site with they now don't work on cr10s pro they should pull this video until it's fix and then come out with a new video.
This video was shot before the v3 bltouch came into stock. This video would have worked with all bltouch versions at the time so there was no immediate need to specify
please do the same with cr 20 pro. I cannot figure out how to configure the bltouch
Good Morning, I have an original BLTouch V3.1, which I never installed on my CR10 S PRO. I've never done any updates on my printer. I ask if I can follow this video in full or is there any recommendation to make in my case. Thank you.
I got a BLTouch V3 instead of a V2 and cables as a bundle for V1 mainboards from China. The BLTouch V3 is working. Why do you have to take V-G from AIO and not from D11? The voltages are the same. I simply plugged the unmodified 3-pin red-blue-yellow cable into the V-G-S D11 of the V2.4 motherboard.
There’s two cables explain better
I have one cable, it splits into 2-pins for Z- (black and white) and 3-pins for V-G-S (red [5V] -blue [GND] yellow [Signal]).
Hi, so I've clicked the links that you have put in the description, and all I am getting is "not found"! Could you please put up to date links in this video? Kind regards
I’d love to see company’s offer to install all these upgrades for a small extra charge
We do that in house on any printer you purchase from us, or elsewhere.
Sadly, I received a BLtouch V3.0. I followed this tutorial completely (Very detailed!!). Some would be excited to have the newest version. Sadly, my CR10s Pro doesn't work with this version and the hot end crashes into the print bed. I hope to hear from Antclabs with a solution.....or the from the 3d printing community. Anyone buying this....beware! The vendors aren't disclosing what version the BLtouch is.
heard anything from them yet?
Is it possible to install CR Touch to the Cr-10s Pro? Are you able to check it?
Great video.. AGAIN! In the Marlin code these are both commented out.. //#define ABL_BI
//#define ABL_UBL , should I enable one?
I have the same question. It seems that they are not enabled in the video. Did you ever find out anything about this?
@3D Printing Canada:
There is a difference between the nozzle and the tip of the BLTouch according to the hardware version. For BLTouch V2.0 it is 2.5mm(+/-0.5) where for the BLTouch V2.2 is 4mm (+/-0.3). What is the BLTouch version used in the video and does the adaptor accounts for the difference? What is the actual difference now between the nozzle and the tip?
Thanks!
This is known as x,y,and z offset. You measure the x and y and find the z as shown in the video
you know, if CR10S PRO users simply move the original sensor all the was down, so it is only 1mm over print height, and adjust top screw so it measures the correct wanted height, it now performs super nice and accurate all the time, so no need to spend money or time on 3rd party upgrades.
really? its more reliable when closer? my problem is inconsistency and I don't even have any glass just aluminum with sticker. I get as much as 0.4mm variance each homing.
@@nerys71 I thought you are running the WhanBam plate system on your Pro - did you switch back ? ? Interested in your experience since installation as I just ordered a double 310 kit a few weeks ago for this month's production run...
@@Higuma_JPN ahh yes i guess its steel not aluminum. No glass. I love the whambamm i am going with normal bed stickers only so i can turn off the heat mid print. My prints tend to be very long so the electricity savings is quite substantial :-) i bought 8 more for various printers. Very happy with it.
@@nerys71 So - just to clarify - i believe that you said you could run the included PEX sheet on one side and a "stock" type textured surface on the other and flip as needed - is that what you have done ( double surfaced ) or have you foregone the PEX sheet completely ? Glad to hear your happy with the system - am looking forward to getting mine for the 10S Pro...
@@Higuma_JPN I just left the PEX off though I imagine doing both sides could work I've never tried
Hello! You were close by hand the part of video, where the pins is connected 12:56... On the pictures this pins also is not good marked. Please show a good picture of connection. Can I use the cable from the original sensor for disabling a new wiring from this instruction?
Nice, I followed your instructions and now my CR-10S PRO has a BL-Touch. What Cura profile settings would you recommend?
Just curious because there is a step that seems to be missing here. After securing the BL Touch onto the extruder how did you connect the BL Touch cables with the extension cable? Did you solder them together? Or did you have a connector that brought them together? Both of those ends seem to be female to female which doesn't work.
The pigtail from the bltouch just plugs into the extension cables. Some extension cables replace the pigtail completely
Much love for the hard work you put into this video, BUT, you need to either update this video or take it down. Your newer, UPDATED video shows the installation of a jumper on the break out board. I followed this video to the letter and spent hours trying to figure out WHY my BLTouch wouldn't trigger. I just so happened to find your other, updated video and it showed the jumper install, I installed a jumper and BOOM, everything works perfectly now. Seriously, great work here, but please throw some text or some kind of update for people to see in the video
The title says for older versions of BL touch and the newer version is for the newer bltouch.
I installed the BLTouch but was unable to successfully flash the firmware. Kept getting the following error: static assertion failed: RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION is outside the probe region. I only changed the two lines shown in the video. I am not a programmer and have no idea what to do to about this.
Hello thanks for the great video. Which filament should be used for the sensor holder?
PLA should be just fine! Otherwise, try PETG.
Does anyone have a link to an upgrade kit that will work for the cr-10s pro right out of the box with mount and all? Or will one for the cr-10s work fine?
mega very helpfull thanks
!! BL-Touch V3 now work on CR-10S Pro !!
-- Just install a jumper cap --
Firmware and modifications are same as this video.
!! Very important step: Install a jumper cap on CR-10S Pro. !!
The BLTouch V3.x is enough just to install the jumper cap on the CR-10S Pro and it works well in Default(OD) and 5V Logic Mode.
See:
www.antclabs.com/creality3d-board
and
github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/issues/32
Tools:
BLTouch Home & Auto Levelling Height Gauge
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1538742
listen to him, that is the way to go. it works perfectly, get the firmware update cr10s pro B7 from tiny machine, choose the one with bltouch and you're done
Did you have to split the connector? the Antlabs page shows yellow red and tan plugged straight into the board.
@@ezrastillwater3386 www.antclabs.com/creality3d-board , the wires are side by side on D11 , red on V , tan on G , yellow/orange on S
So as long as the order is good, you don't have to split them up.
Don't forget the jumper cap, signal and Grnd on Z- at the ribbon cable breakout adapter
Your post on this video saved me a tonne of time and hassle. It would be awesome if 3D Printing Canada did an updated video
@@Flacoon1 www.antclabs.com/creality3d-board
Be sure to follow the pictures
Sorry, a nub here to this so I have a few simple questions.
1. where do you get the program for marlin to be worked on from?
2. do you have the printer connected to your computer via the USB?
3. does the printer need to be on or off during the formatting?
4. do you need to format the marlin before the screen?
thank you in advance.
1-You need the Arduino IDE.
2- yes, this is how you upload the firmware using the Arduino IDE
3- during the "flashing" (not formatting) it doesn't matter if the printer is on or off, the board will receive power from the usb
4-the order doesn't matter
@@Jason-yn6oy thank you so much
awesome.. thanks!!
Nice, I have a CR-X. Do you know if the install is the same except for another holder for The sensor?
I don't see why not. Just use the appropriate LCD dwin_set and uncomment your printer model at the top of the marlin config
Great tutorial! I will be installing this next weekend. Can you also do one with the fans swap? Thanks!
Which fan swaps? Please explain :)
@@3DPrintingCanada All of them i guess he means, they are damn noisy
Well I will replace all...
@@ZTNET I replaced all the fans on the unit (except the blower) with noctua's and the machine is super quiet now. You need to replace the one in the power supply as well if you want super quiet. The fan inside the power supply runs on 12v but the rest are 24v so you will need buck converters(unless you can find quiet 24v fans). I used LM2596 converters which you can find on amazon or any electric supply warehouse.
@@3DPrintingCanada Each fan on that printer is noisy as hell the ones inside the box also vibrates a lot, its kinda funny the made a silent printer (mechanically speaking) but the fans are really annoying.
Where do you buy the bltouch mount for a cr-10s pro.... THE MOUNT special non existent piece
Thanks this is awesome
Good stuff. I use TH3D's EZABL with the different offsets for multiple print surfaces set in my startup script (I just uncomment the Z offset that works best for the surface I'm using). BLTouch seems nifty. Ty for the very insightful video :)
Is anything mentioned about the connector with the white and black wires changing from a JST to a white connector that mates with the board? In the video you see both connectors are JST's then later they are different.
Our extension cables come with the appropriate ends already on them.
Problem now is with the new bltouch V3 does not work with existing firmware resulting in print head crashing into the bed... I can't get it to work yet.. frustrating
Download the new files (posted a few days ago) there are updates for v3.0. Let me know if it works for you, I haven't tried yet. github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/Creality_DWINTest?fbclid=IwAR0Lc-y0fmrj-9D0Y4Nqa27sbehLkfXFcKeIe-QOgXmBAZg13EoLs1SUoU0
I just tried the new files. Doesn't work.
@@grants169 Indeed it does not work.. This upgrade is not ready yet..
Huh. I have the v3 and mine works fantastic.
@@austinjohnson1079 What's your firmware and version?
you make great videos!! thank you
Thanks!
If I don't have a BLTouch but want the firmware do I just uncomment the line right above "define BLTouch"?
The answer was yes
Thanks!
Can this be added to the 10S? I have the E3D Titan Aero hot end with direct drive on my 10S. Yes I know, just look on UA-cam, just thought I would ask here as I truly enjoy your vids. Thanks
I believe you just choose the "machineCR10Std" instead of CR-10sPro when un-commenting at the top.
EDIT: I see you edited you original question or I didn't fully read it before answering. You're going to need to make all the normal titan aero changes (steps, direction, thermistor type, etc) in addition to uncommenting the right printer model
Please tell me the number of the Servo _pin we are using
wonderful thank you :)
really a job well done! Good boy!
is it possible to use the Orion precision piezo sensor on the c10s pro?
Can you make a tutorial?
A configuration for Duet Wifi?
I won't be doing a config for a completely different mainbaord (and firmware) for this printer anytime soon...or ever ;) sorry
@@Jason-yn6oy Could you please tell me what is the hardware version of the BLTouch (2.0/2.2) and what is the difference now between the nozzle and the tip? I might need to tweak the model height to account for the difference introduced by BLTouch V2.2 (it is around 1.5mm)!
!! Warning for all v3.0 users !!
I just tried the new files posted version 1.1.9_B6 Insanity Automation on 3/20/2019.
The BLTouch still did NOT stop z-axis.
I remembered reading somewhere it might work if you switch the black and white wires so gave it a try.
Doing so let the smoke out of the BLTouch and fried it. It's dead.
Swapping the wires with version 1.1.9_B5 did not fry the BLTouch.
..Still not working is the bottom line, and mine will never work now.
Can confirm because I am having the same issue. V3.0. Doing some poking around and its known for the past 15 days and developers of Marlin are working on it.
Thanks! Today I killed half a day, I thought I was doing something wrong! If you find any solution please report here.
@@kuksinsky Your not the only one. Majorly pissed me off when I found out. Giving it two more days before I return it as defective/not functional.
@@Awrethien I think we need to wait a little longer. This is a software bug. On the second version of marlin, everything works. Only now there is no configuration for our model. :)
Thanks guys. After two days of crashing my hot end in the heating bed and rechecking and remeasuring the wiring again and again I finally found the answer here. Don't know whether I should be happy or cry about the lost time.... By the way, I can't get rid of the clearance of the 3 wheels of my hot end. I can move my excentre shaft of the lower wheel all the way around, with still having a clearance in every position. Is it supposed to be without any clearance or am I trying to reach an impossible goal?
It would have been nice if you had mentioned the nuts to attach the 3D printed bltouch bracket had to be purchased separately. I completely disassembled my printer to find out everything to do the install wasn’t included.
The original BL Touch comes with the needed screws and nuts. The guy doing the install in this video briefly mentions "the ridiculously long screws".
There is a small plastic ziplock bag in what you can construe as the lower part of the smile/grin in the genuine BL Touch packaging.
Other BL Touch clones might not come with this assembly of extra parts.
The bag contains screws, washers, nuts, dupont crimp on pins and black plastic connectors for dupont pins.
JASON,
Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you for this video ... I followed your instructions and upgraded my CR-10S PRO to use original BLTouch and my headache is gone now, and now I am getting perfect first layer ... Before I was using the default capacitive proximity sensor and I was facing hard time in getting perfect first layer.
I have question: Should I upgrade my CR-10S PRO even more to use TL Smoothers ??
No need for TL Smoother on TMC2208
@@krzysztofbartnik I agree. Completely unnecessary
After the installation do I need to add a start gcode in the slicer software?
G29 will kick off a probing of the bed.
joined your 6.6K followers. thanks a lot for this I was looking to do it as stock sensor is not at the level of quality / degres of precision for the job
Welcome to the channel! :) If you have any questions please post here and I'll help you out
Is there any reason why you used the PWR and GND from the A10 row rather than just rearrange the wires in the dupont connector and just push it on the D11 row?
I'm not sure. But the row where he connects them are called Ax and he connects the servo signal to Dx. Maybe the A signals have better amps.
I suspect they are well enough, but I haven't tried.
I had an initial problem with my setup (bad wiring of the servo signal/orange line), so I thought there were too little amps available at the A10 signal pins, so I connected my red and brown line to a buck converter that stepped down the PSU 24v to 4,8v.
Works like a charm so far for me, especially when I have improved the orange line connectivity
Yeah just analog vs digital on the first pin, but each of those middle and end pins should be 5v and gnd
Hello everyone !
I am looking to install a BLTouch on my CR-10S Pro.
I uncomment line 93 to activate the BLTouch.
When I try to upload the updated firmware I encounter a problem:
Compilation error for the Arduino / Genuino Mega or Mega 2560 board.
If I upload the firmware by comment line 93, I have no problem.
Would you have a solution to my problem?
Here is the trace of the error in Arduino IDE:
Arduino : 1.8.8 (Windows Store 1.8.19.0) (Windows 10), Carte : "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"
sketch\Marlin_main.cpp: In function 'extrapolate_one_point':
sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:2825:3: internal compiler error: Segmentation fault
}
^
Please submit a full bug report,
with preprocessed source if appropriate.
See for instructions.
lto-wrapper.exe: fatal error: C:\Program Files\WindowsApps\ArduinoLLC.ArduinoIDE_1.8.19.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-gcc returned 1 exit status
compilation terminated.
c:/program files/windowsapps/arduinollc.arduinoide_1.8.19.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/5.4.0/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: error: lto-wrapper failed
collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status
exit status 1
Erreur de compilation pour la carte Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560
I've got a serious question with this printer! I am trying to install BLtouch but can't find the correct cable in the Netherlands so orderd it from your site :D Hopefully that will work already got a blTouch.
I'm using the stock bed which sticks perfectly but damm i cannot get my prints of the bed. Even the scraper can't get underneath the first layer....
Make sure it is fully cooled before removing, they should basically pop right off. What temp are you running the bed at, and what material?
@@Jason-yn6oy 60 degreese Celsius and Black PLA won't pop of I'd it cools down haha
@@ClassyTechTime make sure you're not too close. That's crazy though, at the same temps all the PLA I have used just pops right off. I guess "too good" adhesion is better than "not enough" ;)
@@Jason-yn6oy Same issue here....until last weekend. Found a trick.....spray a mix of 1+1 (50%) alcohol and water on the cool bed around the print edges, wait 10-15 sec and use scraper......makes it a lot easier :)
The cable from 3dp-canada is good value, but you're gonna be bit by the electronics diy bug when 3d printing. Get the tools and the parts cheaply from e-bay or ali, and make your own.
for greater control of my printer I'll look into giving it a merlin "native" display.
can you provide the link to your firmware update video. I'm not installing the BLtouch but was planning on the Tiny Machines install. thank you
You can just use the firmware portion of this very video. Just ignore the part about enabling the BLtouch.
You can find it here: www.tinymachines3d.com/pages/10spro
Hey quick question, where did you get the glass bed for the Pro? I have a pro and would love one
same will for me
I got one on Amazon (from Creality), but they're 'unavailable' at the moment. They are, however, on the Creality3DOnline.com site under tempered glass beds. That and 0.4 nozzles are, right now, the ONLY accessories Creality has for the Pro for sale.
We stock pre-cut 3mm regular glass for the Cr-10 size (310x310) and and the cr-10s pro/ cr-x (310x320) and ender 3. Theres also the creality textured glass for the cr-10s pro & cr-x 3dprintingcanada.com/collections/glass-bed/products/silicon-carbon-cr-10s-pro-build-surface-tempered-glass-plate-with-special-chemical-coating-310x320x3mm
@@Jason-yn6oy the pro is 310x320
@@pdxcerealkilla9847 We also stock 310x320mm glass. Here is the link to the one that Creality supplies: 3dprintingcanada.com/products/silicon-carbon-cr-10s-pro-build-surface-tempered-glass-plate-with-special-chemical-coating-310x320x3mm We also have regular 3mm glass cut in-store that isn't listed on our website.
Antclabs says that for ender 3 you have to remove the C7 capicator. That should make it more reliable and save better then resistor. But I was wondering what the fix may be on a cr10spro? Should I remove the c48 capicator?
Just plug in the cables and install marlin 1.1.9B6.
@@C1Filmchen that didnt fix it for me.
Maybe your V3 has the old hardware and mine the new one that works without any problems.
Hello 3D printing Canada where can i purchase the glass bed , do you have a link ?
Here it is: 3dprintingcanada.com/products/silicon-carbon-cr-10s-pro-build-surface-tempered-glass-plate-with-special-chemical-coating-310x320x3mm
Is this sensor better than what is included? Who already install it?
The BL Touch is great. I had some problems installing it on my printer, fist I misdiagnosed the problem with my install. I had connectivity problem on the orange signal line (servo signal) which caused the probe not dropping the pin at the beginning of probing. Causing the nozzle to crash into the build surface.
But now it's working correctly and I'm having great first layers regardless of what temp the bed was auto levered or what kind of build surface I'm using.
Jason, I went to your link for github and i don't see the same info as you show? Did they change up the system since you've shared this video?No clone button? Also i fomatted my card and it doesn't show the same sizing availability. I did 32k. Win7 here
Your card should be formatted 4096, not 32k, for the LCD firmware.
hello i need some help my Z keeps on going down even when i touch the bl touch
Check if the PCB is marked V3.0 if so add a 1k resistor between the red and white wires. If not check orientation of black and white wires. It matters.
For the printed mount, does anyone know if PLA ok to use or will it warp?
@F1ForFun ok, never tried anything other than PLA but how hard can it be?
hmm it wont show the port
Jason, the braided sleeving that you are using.. is that 1/4"?
Seems a bit longer than that.
@@monkfry Just as a followup: I did purchase a 50' roll of 1/4" sleeving and it worked perfectly.
Can I do the installation with the same process to CR-X?
I would assume it's very similar, especially if you're using tiny machines firmware on the crx
Does it work also with the bltouch 1.0?! Or just with the 2.0?
Thx for this great tutorial.
I've had both, and used both on a smoothie board.
I think they're mostly interchangeable. But I'm not sure.
Just make sure it is not v3.0
Does the pro already have a bootloader installed?
Yes, as all atmega 2560-based printers do...
All is Ok with the BLTOUCH but now I can't connect the CR10-S PRO with Simplify3D
Maybe you must reduce the serial port speed in configuration.h (~row 380)
[quote]#if ENABLED(CREALITY_DWIN)
//#define BAUDRATE 250000
#define BAUDRATE 115200[/quote]
Do you guys only do Creality printers? If not, how about a review of the Geeetech A10 , not the A10M. Single extruder. It's a better copy of the Ender 3.
If they're willing to send a printer I'm sure we'd cover it but we currently don't sell Gretsch. We pull the creality printers from our large inventory of them.
Installed the BL Touch. Uncommented the proper line in the firmware. Updated the firmware. Powering on the machine activates the BL Touch (turns red... pops down). EVERYTHING WENT FINE... until I hit 'auto home.' The BL Touch dropped its probe, turned blue, lowered...annnd... the nozzle crashed into the bed. Any idea what combination of things I can look at to see what went wrong? Is the sensor just no good?
I think the CR10S Pro can't give enough amps. This is bugreport with video showing a very similar bug whci I also got after I did this mod:
github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6117
ua-cam.com/video/n-434AEZeSQ/v-deo.html
I think I should get 24AWG wire or find power somewhere else.
Mine activates fine (red light), and goes into sensing mode for an auto-home (red light off, pin dropped), and will even sense when it hits something (pin fires back up if I put something underneath). But the Z carriage never stops lowering. It's like the printer is ignoring the signal from the BL Touch. I don't know if that means a pin is wired wrong (I've checked wiring), or if a signal is crossed somewhere... but it's kind of frustrating...
@@Neil-wp8nb Turns out my problem was bad connection on the orange line. The servo signal line.
Just giving the BL Touch power will make it do a self test.
Issuing M280 S10 and M280 S90 (via Pronterface USB connected to PC) didn't do anything.
After giving the BLT better 5v and still having issues reconnecting the orange line fixed it for me.
Your issue sounds like either the black or white wire (Z-min signal) isn't connected or they are swapped. Most likely they're not connected. Check them thoroughly.
My orange line got bad connection when I threaded it into the braided polyester sock that goes from top of the x-carriage to the flatcable breakout on the left hand side.
So I remade that connection and shrink wrapped it with some heattube.
Was a short in the white wire. Replaced that wire and all is well.
@@Neil-wp8nb I'm glad you found the issue. My CR10S Pro is a brand new beast after this mod. It's been printing consistently for three days straight after. First layer is always good now.
Just updated my CR-10s pro with the BL Touch and now all i get is the loading screen. Tried re-flashing it back to the factory firmware, pulled the BL Touch and put back in the original sensor, same issue, now my printer won't get past the loading screen with the Tiny Machines Firmware or even the Factory Creality firmware, help!
OK so did some reading and you need old Cura 15.04.06 don't ask me why Cura 4 won't connect (hopefully someone out there can answer this) but it doesn't. If you use cura 15.04.06 rate 25000 and follow tiny machines newest firmware hex file, you can unbrick your CR-10s Pro from the frozen screen of doom. Now if i can just get my BL Touch to stop driving the nozzel into the bed it would be sweet.
@@mattmcguire348 I specifically didn't flash anything using Cura on this video
@@Jason-yn6oy had to reflash using old version of cura only way to get it to reset.
@@mattmcguire348 you use Cura to flash a hex file (precompiled firmware). To flash from the source, as we do here, you will require the Arduino IDE (or other similar options) but cannot use Cura to do it from source.
Do you sell a kit with all parts needed to install BL Touch in a CR 10s Pro ?
I went to their website and bought the BLTouch an extension cable and you need (2) 3m nuts. Thats it.
O yeah I forgot you need to print the mount he mentions.
I already have the Tiny Machines firmware/screenware on my 10S Pro. So do I just need to uncomment out the one line in the config file for BLTouch and reflash the firmware? Don't need to do anything with the Screen??
You need to reflash the screen firmware. Write the DWIN_SET directory on the flash card and insert it into the screen board. To do this, you need to unscrew a bunch of screws on the bottom cover :)
@@kuksinsky Hi Dmitry, I think Mike is asking the same question I have is that he has already updated the firmware to Tinymachines from the stock firmware (same procedure as shown in the video), but do we need to flash this firmware again to something different or does the current firmware on Tinymachines website just need the BLtouch to be uncommented in the code?
@@natep87 Just uncomment one line and that's it.
@@kuksinsky Thanks for your help!
I received the printer.
Indeed, I confirm that it takes only 10 minutes tu assemble which is fantastic.
However, I spent hours to adjust the bed.
The auto bed leveling just doesn't work.
I tried several times following the instructions.
The print results that I got was not showing a successful auto bed leveling.
So I tried again and again.
After I manually adjusted the bed and the sensor, I pressed the Auto bed leveling button on the screen,
I got a result on the screen which showed the 16 offset values
Why do I get different results if I immediately push the button ? That shouldn't happen.
I pushed the auto bed leveling, and immediately pushed the button again.... three times and I got different results at every time.
Please understand that I did not touche the leveling wheels or anything.
I just pushed the auto bed leveling three times.
Now..... now I understant why you put a BLTouch.. but but you should have explained and tell... but I understand when you get free stuff and special discounts, you can't be 100% transparent.
Yes, the sensor that comes with printer is shit. I also suffered with him. Lower it 1 mm above the nozzle, it will be better. But it is better to replace it.
First, this wasn't a printer sent at a discount or free, this came from our inventory of printers purchased for resale at the store. This also wasn't a review.
Second, capacitive sensors are impacted by changes in temperature and humidity. I have never had great luck with them, though some people swear by them.
perfect tutorial 👍
You might want to mention that you should install Arduino IDE before you start. I didn't know what that was, had to google it. www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
It does not work anymore because the DWIN files are no longer on the page, it is more the page is down ... I think you should delete the video because this no longer works at least it did not work for me since it only lets me download the tinymachines files that don't work for me with bltouch
Does this firmware support OctoPrint?
Yes, of course. It's standard Marlin
Why do you connect to such different pins? Why not swap the 5v and Gnd so that the Gnd is in the middle and just use the 3 pin connector instead of individual ones? Straight up (towards the near edge of the board) from the control pin you are using is a ground. Above that pin is 5v. (At least that is what I'm reading on here github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/issues/32#issuecomment-492809555). Also, the fix for installing a V3 probe is to use a jumper on the z- break out board to keep the opto isolator from pulling the circuit.). Please check it out and let us know what you think?
Edit: My V3 BLTouch (Pre April 5th 2019 Edition) works. I placed that jumper as shown in the thread above. I updated the link in my comment to take you directly to the comment / solution with pictures. I am using the Creality_DWINTest version of touch screen and firmware linked in your description above. I can also confirm that just moving the red wire to the side position of the 3 pin dupont connector and putting the ground in the middle with the servo pin already on the other side of the connector indeed works. You can use the 3 pins together, but you have to swap the positions in the connector to make sure the signals are in the right order: 5V top, Ground middle, and Servo bottom.
Hi, This is what I did and it works :p
@@jeremyp7002 easy for you to say. Try explaining it to a variety of people. Sorry I erred on the long version or that I didn't take the time to hi back and revise it into a beer statement just for you.
For that matter, I started with a question. Later I edited it and see the information I added on my own since my question wasn't answered here. I thought maybe someone else could use the information as well. Sorry it didn't meet your standards.
Any idea why the Z-axis doesn't stop after the probe is triggered? I can control the BlTouch with M280 P0 S10 and M280 P0 S120 and other commands so the flash was successful. Z-Axis doesn't stop though!
i'm having the same problem!
I am having the same issue, any luck figuring it out?
Same problem here as well.
@@BradyLove Yes. I returned it and got an inductive sensor for $8.99 that works great. Buy it here: amzn.to/2TDtGYr
Check to make sure your BL Touch is v3.0. They are known to not work at this time. The developer of the tinymachines firmware is trying to get this resolved. Latest updates can be found near the bottom of the post at www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/aj618t/update_to_the_cr10spro_and_crx_firmware/?st=JST53BV8&sh=77c3d651
There is also a Marlin issue reported here github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/13345?fbclid=IwAR3CfJuBG1zVEVrqwK4sUm0EQJuMHnCWXiLP35VQ4LsX1nBldltUi5eQGCs
What's wrong with just a good ol mechanical bed leveling?
Nothing. But since the printer came with an abl sensor, we chose to upgrade it
Nothing per se, but for big beds it's an improvement when the surface isn't perfectly flat. Then it's not something you can level out if there is a bump in the middle of your surface if it isn't flat.
A good ol mechanical bed leveling is still a much need foundation for an automatic process to build upon.
So it's still mandatory skill to master.
I think it's because the stock bed is ridiculously warped
@@johnc7863 actually the textured print surface is very flat. The ABL is just there to handle any inaccuracies in our manual tramming
ERROR 404..fw page
I installed a BL Touch V3 on my CR10S-pro yesterday and it works perfectly. Follow this video and install a jumper IAW the link below.
docs.google.com/document/d/1kruMCM1PvlMUfF1XlXwLpzbrRYRpbkUi2L0-ytQUGOk/edit
Make sure you install the jumper in the correct position and flash the 7B BL Touch HEX from Tinymachines. Also, make sure your wires will reach. I had to extend mine but it works awesome.
just use black paper clips on those wires
also can we change the image for the start screen? how about changing the startup music? I would like to customize that :-)
Ahh sure. It's just a matter of editing the BMP files in the dwin-set folder....c'mon you know this I'm sure ;)
hah I did not even know anyone had the firmware for it yet.
@@Jason-yn6oy
Great idea, I'm going to do that :D
@@nerys71 In the TinyMachine's DWIN_SET folder, edit 00_starting.bmp and the startingX.wav files
Have anyone done this yet? Why are the wav files like they are? All of them seem like they have a huge period of silence in the beginning and ending abruptly when I play them on my computer. Is that normal for these files?
What are they're requirements to work on the creality screen?
anithing to add in start gcode?
After G28, add G29 for auto leveling
@@3DPrintingCanada Is G29 really needed? It takes a lot of time, and if you do the initial messurement at temperature it will hold, right?
If you do a messurement every 5 or 7 days that should do it I think.
The G28 is needed.
@@aarntsen depending on the firmware they may not have enabled "restore leveling after g28" So when you g28 (home all axes) it discards leveling data from before.
If this is not enables in the Fw, do a M420 S1 after the G28 to load the most recent mesh data
Found a solution that works for v3. You must place a jumper on "Z-" connector (as shown below) to keep the optocoupler from pulling down the Z_MIN line. Thank you chunter1. More details can be found here github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/issues/32
Hi my Printer wont turn on after flashing the Marlin
Did you flash both the main board AND the LCD?
You are talking about things like arduino, com ports, code and many other things like we all know what you mean. After this video i still cant install a bltouch sensor on my printer.
If you're attempting this, it's probably best to know the basics first.
What's the issue you're having? It's most likely that you haven't got it wired correctly. At minimum, if it's wired correctly, the BLTouch should trigger (clicking) a few times the moment you power the printer on.
@@w159 My problem is not with wiring, that is something I can do with a patch on the eyes. My problem is that this video gives for granted things that for me are not granted. For example what program is he using to see the code and upload through COM port? I think it is ARDUINO IDE 1.8.9 but I dont know because he doesnt even say it ion the video. I went to the link on Github to download the dwin set and the firmware but there is nothing to download for me there, why?
@@narcotixfpv9795 Most of this is taken for granted because the stuff you're talking about is beginner stuff (Not meaning to offend).
If you want, I can help you with this or just provide you with the files. The Arduino you'll need is 1.8.5. There's some compiling errors that you'll run into on the latest version that isn't mentioned.
Fell free to PM me on here and I can help as much as I can. I'm no expert, but I've been doing this for a while and have 5 printers of my own.
@@w159 No offense at all, I am a real noob after all. Sorry before I was writing from my other account. Yes please help me, it would be really appreciated ;)
@@w159 Hey mate, looks like I cant message you, probably you have private messaging disabled.
I think seeing the board I already know the answer to this sadly but is there any way to enable Dual Z homing with limit switches? IE one for each z screw like anycubic does on the i3mega?
my problem is its so easy for the x axis to drift I tend to push on it when loading or unloading filament and its very well build and aligned so the z axis moves and now they are out of sync again. (I have never had it unsync in use just when I mess with it)
dual z end stops would eliminate the need for any form of ABL at all and eliminate the need to level the x gantry as it would zero out each homing. the beds on these are ultra flat no need for abl anyway :-)
Same mechanism as Anycubic uses on the Chiron. I could really use this type of setup on my d9 which drifts if you look at it wrong.
I'll take a look, there were a couple extra empty endstop connections...
sadly I THINK it would require dual stepper drivers (one for each z screw) unless you could force it to keep going against one end stop until "both" end stops activated ? would be a little noisy but ... it would work if someone can figure out how to code that in the firmware.
another solution is "HARD" end stops. (put an obstacle in the way) and put the end stop switch on the RIGHT since 99 out of 100 times the left is low (right high)
hmmmm that might work..
I would also really like to switch to non contact end stops like tevo uses. they seem to work a lot better.
@@Jason-yn6oy
@@nerys71 you're definitely right, it would need independent stepper drivers. I'm not a huge fan of the inductive endstops tevo used on the flash, it still smacks into them.
I like the implementation on the Chiron, where a plate blocks the IR sensor path long before anything comes into contact.
Essentially, like this: cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/51/76/36/72/6e/6c02da8a0f05dcfe1fccaac326dd5b18_preview_card.jpg
@@truantray they aren't capricorn connectors, they're the same type of connectors used on the cr-10s.
The default firmware does have the issue of the part cooling fan turning on during abl, and being that ALL capacitive sensors are temp&humidity sensitive, this makes no sense to have the fan on.
The plain glass was swapped in so that we could print other materials on it that would likely weld to the stock build surface and ruinnit (nylon, petg). The stock glass doesn't have PEI, for the record, so I'm not sure why you mentioned PEI. Stock was a buildtak-like surface mated to glass, not steel.
What fan shroud are you referring to? The cooling fan duct?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3387741