Minimus Cooler -Possibly The Best Cooling Fan Upgrade For Your Ender 3 Style Hotend
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Do you get annoyed with having to unbolt your hotend cover anytime you want to change your nozzle or get to your hotend? Do you want better part cooling in a simple package? In this video, I'm going show you how to print and install the Minimus Hotend Cooler.
Download the STL files: cults3d.com/en...
Affiliate links (If you purchase something after clicking any of the below links I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. This is a great way to support the channel)
When ordering fans, ensure you buy the correct voltage (12/24v) for your 3d printer.
*Blower Fans (Part cooling)*
4010
Creality(24v) amzn.to/3XMkEWw
Winsinn(12&24v options) amzn.to/3iv3EUF
4020
Winsinn(12&24v options) amzn.to/3irSjET
5015
Winsinn(12&24v options) amzn.to/3gRVx3O
*Hotend Cooling Fans*
4010
Creality(24v) amzn.to/3EQitIJ
Winsinn(12&24v options) amzn.to/3gOYdiG
Noctua(12v) amzn.to/3FigoXG
4020
Winsinn(12%24v options) amzn.to/3P6oqGt
Noctua(12v) amzn.to/3VxDYoy
Crimp connectors
amzn.to/3xmaejK
..............................................................................................................................................................
BUY ME A COFFEE
If you're enjoying my content, why not consider supporting the channel by buying me a coffee?
Even very small amounts are greatly appreciated and re-invested into bringing you better content.
www.buymeacoff...
You can also use the UA-cam 'Thanks' button above if you prefer.
...............................................................................................................................................................
ITS FREE NOW (as of 01/09/2023)
confirmed
Wow, that is awesome.
Wish I could open it as it's just pictures with no way to get anything
Wish I could open it as it's just pictures with no way to get anything
Can't figure it out I'll stick to thingaverse
I'll say it again - I see a lot of 3D printing videos but yours are probably THE most information-dense and no BS
Hey Ricky, Thank you for giving my Minimus a good test. I set Minimus at a special price this week for your viewers. 👍
Thanks Paul, great design that deserves some more eyes! Grab a bargain now everyone.
Any promo code or something? ;-)
@@mikolajrNo code, Everyone gets the deal 😉
@@mikolajr Paul's reduced the price for us all this week 👍
Much appreciated but I can't get it to work. Ive read the read me file, printed accordingly, prints look good but parts don't seem to fit together. I even played with scaling. Any suggestions or something i may have missed?
I run the Minimus Cooler on both my ender 3 and I found it to be the best I've used.
Best thing is he is awlays upgrading it, last update was a few day ago. Best few $$$ I ever spent on 3D printing.
Thanks for letting me know about this! I bought the updated v2 neo plans and the armadillo plans, very neat packages. Printed perfectly with the advice given.
I just bought and printed one and it's great! The quick detach should be a universal feature on all shrouds! This is nothing short of genius, thank you for bring this to my attention
Its a very good design. Thank you for these free files. I made small modifications , changed the design of front cover to fit exactly with grill liked design. Also a second cover on top of the 4010 dual cover. Perfect companion together with direct drive all metal extruder
Printed a pair for my two 3v2 printers. They are great. Easy to remove in the event of a hot end mishap or to facilitate maintenance.
You are a wealth of knowledge; I have come back to your videos so many times for various things (especially the Sonic Pad series). I tried to buy you a coffee, but something wouldn't work. I really need to try again, and make it several. Thank you Ricky.
Anyone seeing this, please support guys like this. He is an absolute professional, and the quality of his videos involve extensive editing and great intelligence to keep the videos on point and not waste even 1 second of the viewer's time. It would be an easier task for a content creator to allow for off-point rambling and filler words like um, uh, etc. His videos couldnt' be more perfect.
Thanks for the support👍
This is great! Replaced stock ender 3 fan as it was so noisy - this solved my subsequent heat creep issues with the noctua 4010 12v fan, and can now print at 230 degrees 🙂
This is a great find. Much simpler than other systems out there. All parts I needed were printed and installed in only a few hours. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it helped
Very clever way to check airflow with water. Thanks.
Literally the best printable upgrade, period.
This was such a good video. Ive been looking for a good solution to my loud voxel lab printer and this is by far the best soloution, and every time I had a question about anything you would immediately answer it. It’s so informative for an under 10 minute video. Definitely subscribing. Thanks
Thanks, it's great to hear that i'm including the right information. Welcome to the channel.
What voxelab printer do you have, presumably you printed this with success? I'm looking to add this to my aquila x2.
I know a lot of people say the v-slot inlays are useless and only visual, however I find they make keeping you printer clean far, far easier. Just use them on the bottom slots though, using them on the vertical extrusions or the X gantry can interfere with your motion system.
I like this a lot better then the Hero Me. I will definitely be giving this a try. Also supporting the creator for more mods
Ricky as usual, your videos are awesome, I am a french speaking guy, but your videos are to the point and easy understandable, no b-shit! Thanks a lot.
Hi Rick
i have printed and fitted the minimus hotend assembly to my Voxelab Aquila and it is printing better than ever before a super improvement. Kepp up your tips they are very useful.
Ray
Glad to hear it Ray, thanks for the comment👍
I use this and it’s honestly the best hands down
Just bought this along with new fans. Thank you
After nearly two years with my ender 3v2, I've moved way from the jyers/mriscoc to klipper, and with the incredible speed increases (and 60w heater on all metal) I finally need better cooling. Originally I printed the fang, but I just couldn't get myself to install it, but this looks very appealing and is queued up to print. I'm still using BLTouch not CR, so hopefully I can get that to fit on the CR mount. Thanks!
BL and CR Touch are basically the same thing, they both fit fine👍
Thank goodness for this video, the file tree is such a mess without guidance.
Thanks Ricky, love your presentation style - very informative and a good balance of information and visuals
Has anyone heard of the minime 5015 cooler? If you don't mind using screws it looks even smaller. Ricky, I love your channel, it never feels like they're filler. Thanks for all the info.
If you float some pepper on top of the water you can visualise the airflow much better, I got this method from Nathan Builds Robots YT channel.
I already changed my hotends to Hero Me Gen 5 and 6 but these look awesome, I am wanting to get a third Ender 5 Plus but I am holding out in the hope that Sovol will do their thing with this printer design, whichever one I get I will definetly fit this model of fan duct and shroud!
Interesting you mention Sovol, I have their SV01 Pro on test at the moment and it's awesome. Very impressed with their machines so far.
Also, good tip with the pepper, I'll try that thanks 👍
@@RickyImpey I havent seen a bad review of a Sovol machine yet and I watched loads of them, everyone is wowed by them and the comments are extremley positive, the only critisism I have is that they wont sell the SV05-Cubic in the UK as they say we are not interested in it, but they have never sold this model in the UK!
Another fantastic tutorial from Ricky! Quick and to the point, but leaves nothing out. Great video!
I love how an 'upgraded' machine is just a bunch of multi colored extrusion slot covers and drawers, literally no drag chains lmao. There's a difference between the engineering crowd and the make pretty crowd. The worthy upgrades to print are anything cable management related as that's perfect for those filament scraps. The hotend that uses slide in fittings is smart, I'm here because I'm looking to reduce the weight of my gantry. I've already drilled my heated bed bracket out and replaced the heavy glass for spring steel sheet and ditched the bed leveling wheels for simple M4 nuts.
I just paid $5 and printed the Hero Me 7.4 dual 5015 set up for my ender 3 pro. During the assembly process, I was thinking "this is over engineered, too complicated and heavier". He designed the HeroMe to be "modular", universal fit product, so probably that's why it got too complicated.
Probably, this is the better and simpler option. I like it!
I am going to print this today, my default duct broke, I also use it for removing my prints with Continuous Print on Octoprint.
This is a great find, thanks for showcasing it.
Hopefully, someone with more ability than I will come up with a version for the Artillery SWX2.
What I love about it is its simplistic design that does not require any other modifications to the Ender system. I have a dual gear direct drive mod and it works perfectly with the different selections made by Rouge Paul and Rogue Designs. No need to over engineer with fancy designs. I am not taking away from other designs that work great if not better, but For a simple well design Ender 3 v2 , this system is perfect. I still need to know what the "Light Trays" are for.
I don't actually know what the light trays are for. I guess some sort of light?!
@@RickyImpey it looks like they're small enough and match in size to where the ducts attach on the bottom. How do I contact the designer to ask him?
I always liked your videos. This one is great and you really made me to buy this mod! As a matter of fact I'm investigating various fan ducts for a few days and this one will be THE ONE.
Glad you like it👍
Thanks! I need to replace my cover, this looks like an excellent option! Great channel, Ricky!
Thanks very much 👍
Great video Ricky.
I have been using Minimus for around 3 months on my v2 and switched due to the hotend fan dying. I use the dual 5015 part cooler version and 4020 hotend. All being 24v Sunons and just love it. Around half the volume of the original fans. Well recommended.
I wanna go the 5015 route myself but am confused as to what type of fans I need to purchase for the parts cooling if I print the "5015 Dual" file. Do I need axial or radial fans?
@@schmuhf hey, you need the 5015 radial or 'blower' type for the part cooling and i used a single 4020 axial fan at the front for hot end cooling
@@a51alias That's what I figured in the meantime, thanks a bunch for the reply. The plastic parts are already done and I'll now order some fans.
I might be a bit late, but I just printed this exact setup for my V2 with 4.2.7 board, I am just curious on the motherboard connections, how did you tackle that? Can the motherboard support two 24V 5015??
@SauROnmiKE I don't use this anymore but when I did, I bought a pack of 2 pin male and female connectors and just splice them in just above the heatsink assembly. It was a bit bulky but worked the power draw of the fans is tiny so running 2 didn't have any issues. I only ran them at 60% anyway otherwise too much cooling.
I have since swapped the whole thing out for a Microswiss NG Revo. Best thing I did.
Very good. I've had it for a long time
Good isn't it👍
Can't wait to get this going. I'm also doing KevinAkaSam's Ender3V2 upgrade. Both of these should keep the printer relevant for another 5-6 years with good maintenance. Don't have $1400 to spend on all these fancy printers. Upgrading is definitely the way to go.
i did the kevinakasam upgrade and boy the walls are clean loving it for now . Bambu lab have good printers for the price they ask and now you have options that starts at 300 and it gives you a lot more features and quality pieces and Q.C where other brands for that price is a basic printer and if you are going to upgrade you will pass the price of the expensive printers and saves you from a lot of pain dialing errors of the ender 3
My favorite part is the bltouch and hot end stay in place and therefore probe offset won’t need readjusting!
@ Ricky your simplistic videos are really great and easy to understand/follow. Has anyone fitted the same ducts on an ender3 V2 Neo before? I have confirmed with the creator of the mod that this will unfortunately not work on an ender 3v2 Neo unless you have upgraded to the Microswiss hot end @Paul Elrod
This is such a disappointment :( I had really great hopes after watching this (the Hero Me also doesn't work with the standard hot end on the E3v2 Neo)
Hey Ricky, great video! Convinced me to go for it and I'm loving the Minimus. Any chance you could share the STL of that test file? The angled tube?
I am using it on a Ender-2 Pro, single fan using stock fans. seems to work better than the stock fan shroud and I can see what's going on when I am running a print. That stock fan shroud is extremely bulky and blocks you from seeing what is going on under the nozzle.
Hi Van, I've just got an Ender 2 Pro and I'm loving it. I would like to have a go at printing one for the stock setup. Could you advice me as to what files I need to print. There are that many to chose from I'm just so confused. Thanks in advance.
@@jondavies450 hey Jon, I used the non cable management version of the back plate and the non bltouch single fan version. The 4010 fans, I believe are the stock fans on the ender-2 pro. Like the creator of this video, i printed mine using PLA+ and have had no issues with the plastic deforming on me.
Thank you ricky, good tutorial
The best I've tried is the one capable of 4020 on hotend and single 5015 blower. Because there're silent 4020 fans like Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W that is a 26db fan or you can use 4020 Noctua with 12v dc-dc step down mini converter, and 5015 blower is powerful and still you can find silent one.
Just wanted to clarify something. If you are using 12v fans you need to wire in series and not in parallel. This eliminates the need for any type of voltage converter.
Yes, good tip.
That might work, but it is not desirable from an electrotechnical standpoint. We are talking about impedance here, not simple resistance. See this explanation for instance: wwenze.blogspot.com/2012/06/read-this-before-connecting-two-fans-in.html
@@AM-pi7jy I understand your theory. Is this really something to worry about n such a low air resistance system? I’m sure there is an electrical work around. Wouldn’t using a cap or placing a diode in-line protect the fans?
After watching this video a couple of times I realized this will really improve the ender 3 pro as it doesn't have that shape to redirect airflow at all really
Yes, it can really help with improving your cooling.
Well, I'm going to try one, but when you take the front fan off it looks like the air will be blowing straight over the heat block, surely this will have a negative effect even if a small one
Nope. Temps nice and stable. Air aimed at bottom of heatsink. Air that goes through heatbreak is high and not blowing at Heater. This keeps heatbreak temp low you get better retraction performance and no more Clogs. Unless you cause them with crazy retraction settings. 👍
Amazing tutorial, thx a lot!
Thank you sir
Actually I really wish if we can see it vs others fan ducties, like hero me and etc.
The best comparison I seen was a customer pic of the pile of bolts required to hold a HeroMe together. 👍
great vid. love your content!
Looks atractive untill you try it.
Downside - too much air leak from the hotend fan straight to the printed area. Its because the hotend area part is too open.
Printing materials where you need part cooling off will be an issue.
Another thing - cable management. Everything is pretty much all around.
Layer cooling part is great though. Of course these fans wont be ideal for those who strugle to have their machine more quiet.
I personaly adore the idea, but once I tried it wasnt that good as I expected. Had issues with air leak as I mentioned. So after some tests I found briss moto fang more quiet, and leaking less air. Overhang tests were same good for both.
And of course I thought how often do you need to take off the fans off? You simply unscrew few bolts and need only access to the hotend. So it is probably only the fight for Weight VS. Noise.
Hi L. Šeima, what materials need part cooling turned off? Thanks.
@@D4RKFiB3R I refered to the problem where the hotend fan is blowing air to the nozzle, and you cant control it as layer cooling fan. That is permanently blowing air whether you need 0 or 100% cooling. That is not how it should be.
I sometime print abs that do not require enclosure, bit there has to be no other source of air blowing around it. So it warps with this minimus shroud, but no probelms with the other I use. Sometimes Tpu with very little cooling less than 10%. So this shroud even looked like a charm, didnt run well for my needs.
@@LSeima I understand. Thanks for the info.
you should have a look at the Rakkelfant V3 on printables
Awesome, thanks 🙏
At 3:50 it shows the hotend fan is blowing directly onto the exposed top of the heatblock, i think that isn't desirable. What do you think about that?
Hey there I'm Paul the designer. If you can imagine the crosssection of that area, you will see that the angled airfoil brings air to bottom of the heatsink. Now combine that angle with the air above it that is not being influenced by the airfoil and you get a curved stream that gets under heatsink and to heat break and bolts. If your concerned about pulling heat a layer or 2 of kapton tape should make a difference. Over 800 ppl are running Minimus now it's been very stable. 👍
Does the fan speed need to be adjusted to accommodate for the more concentrated air flow?
I Recomend 40%-60% I have been using 60% @ 150mm/s and it's doing great.
Interesting
Now if only Noctua would start making some 40mm 24V fans...
Definitely! It would make it all much easier
Thanks!
would this work on your Ender S1 pro?
Unfortunately not.
It would be nice to include amazon links for non-US customers.
0:30 you mention a test file to print for free, however I can see no link for this.
The biggest problem is, if you have a printer that is not on the list, you have to take the chance that something will fit your particular printer.
I have however downloaded these files and may even have to modify something along the way.
I just thought it strange there was no link anywhere for the test print.
Great Idea ! Thank you for the video. Sorry for my noob question. How do you wire those additional fan ?
No, it's not obvious sorry. The cooling fan can just be wired in parallel with the other one. That is, the same colour wires connected together. On mine I had yellow and black wires so I cut the yellow wire coming from the main board and then connected both yellow wires from the fans to this. Did the same with the black. I hope this makes sense.
Hello, buddy. Thanks for the video! Could you help me with a question? I want to add an extra cooler, but I don’t know exactly what voltage to buy. How can I determine the correct voltage for my printer, or does it not matter-meaning I can use 12V or 24V without concern?
Printing isn't so straightforward. My initial print wouldn't snap together. After reading the fine print in the instructions on Thingi, I found that you have to experiment with Horizontal Expansion to get the dimensions right. I had to reduce the size of the Backplate WM by -0.35mm for it to snap into place properly. Also, the holes were too small by around .3mm. Will eventually be installed on my Voxelab Aquila.
Sorry to hear that, mine worked with no mods. Have you tuned things like e-steps on your printer? It could help dial things in.
@@RickyImpey Yes, I'm spot on. I'm shocked that yours seated fully since mine was so far off. Now that I have it sized properly, it's quite nice. BTW, for people that are struggling to choose the appropriate files, the selections on Thingiverse are greatly simplified. Thanks!
Thanks for the informative video, the files are daunting indeed! I have sliced all the files I think are correct..
One thing you dont cover is the CR touch offset, did you have to modify at all? I have a cr touch fitted at the moment.
Yes, you should measure and set your new offset.
@RickyImpey I asked the designer of this file and he states it has been made to position CR touch in the same place as using original hot end fan cover. Much easier than compiling your own firmware file.
@@timknowlden Ah ok, I either didn't realise that or had forgotten 👍
Hey mate love video will this upgrade work on Ender max 3 neo.. keep up the great video
Hi, I don't have a Neo Max so can't say for sure but the pictures I can find of the hotend look like the Ender 3 v2 backplate and hot end which it does fit to.
Just curious if anyone has tried to fit this design on the Ender 5 plus. It looks like a great design and the hotends are, I believe, quite similar. Do you think it would work?
Will you do a review/tutorial of the latest version, the “Minimus Snap”?
I like this one as it looks to be the lightest so far. I am confused as to which files to print though. The readme file did not really help that much.
I have kind of the same problem. It looks like the folder names got a bit more complicated than when the video was shot.
@@FEPLabsRadio Here's what I did to get the dual fan option with the wire management backplate. I don't use any automatic bed leveling so I just printed the basic version. If you use auto bed leveling, just look for the BL or CR attached to the files I mention below. Hope this helps.
From the 'Its full of stars' folder, go to New 4010. Select either 'New 4010 Dual or Single.' In the same folder, got to '4010 Ducts' and select 'Duct 4010 0 R and/or then L.' Then go to the 'New Backplates' folder and then into the 'Backplates WM' folder. From there select 'Backplate WM.' (WM stands for Wire Management.) Also, if you double click on the STL file it will open up and show you a photo. At least it did on my PC. Good luck!
Appreciate some advice on how to print the duct using an Ender 3 v2 direct drive. What cura settings should I use and which orientation on the print bed should I use. I will be using petg filament
Thanks
This is a pretty nifty design. Are there different fan ducts for different hotends? Or a way to move them up and down?
Not as such, at the moment it is only designed to work for the Ender and Microswiss type hotends but if there is demand, I'm sure Paul would modify the design.
update on the way adds 4 more Ducts heights. This will be out within the week. 👍
Hello, this is a beautiful design but I wanted to ask will it work with the Creality CR10S? I tried to install it but it looks like the air ducts are higher than in the video you have for your Ender 3. The fans fit perfect but I’m worried about it being too high.
It's possible that your hotend is longer than on the Ender 3 style hotends that this cooler was designed for. My CR10s Pro has a longer hotend so I can't use the Minimus on that machine.
Is it compatible with the Spider 3.0 hotend ?
I haven't had my bowden tubes move in their couplings since NOT constraining them to the wiring, it causes unnecessary stress and movement on the bowden.
I bought and printed one of these for my Ender 3 Neo, but it seems it's too small to fit my stock hotend? My hotend looks wider than the one in this video, it's got long wavy looking fins rather than the flat rectangular design here. Is mine incompatible? I don't want to replace the hotend now :(
A question, given this fixes behind the hot-end therefore displacing the Y axis by the thickness of the fan holder, how does that effect the printing ? Do you have to put in a Y offset value ?
It doesn't actually space the y axis, it has holes larger than the raised mounts on the backplate so is sandwiched between in the gap, Very clever.
@@RickyImpey Indeed very clever, I shall have to check my printer out (Not an Ender, An Aquilla) to see if the fixings are the same
I cannot seem to get the minimus to fit onto the backplate correctly assuming that the backplate
should fit right into the top of the minimus grooves on either side ?
Yes, it should slide down over those rails. Have you calibrated you printer at all? It could need a few things checking.
@@RickyImpey I printed the parts at different line heights and used the shrink option in Cura, picked the closest two parts
for a fit then cleaned and sanded the closest back plate fit, all now fitted and working.
When installing on an Ender 3 Pro, how can I add a 2nd part-cooling fan? Where does it get electricity from?
hello congratulations for the video. In the file downloaded by cults3d there are 5 types of ducts, which one is ideal for better cooling?
How can it be the best?
It has only a 4010 fan.
Out there there're plenty of designs, and I also designed my own for Ender 3 V2 Neo to use 5015 blower. And you can tune it with 2800, 3000, 4800, 5000, 5800, 6000, 8000, 8500 rpm 5015 blower.
Did you hear the part of the video about multiple fan options and dual fans? LOL.
I love this kit. However, I am concerned that the wire management version of the backplate in combination with fitted Armadillo wraps are putting more strain on the X-Axis. Anyone else have this concern? I'm thinking to maybe re-print the non-cable management version of the backplate...
Doesn't having a cooling duct only on one side can cause banding on the other side? I usually see dual duct but doesn't that also miss cooling on two sides? Wouldn't it be ideal to have a circular ring to provide cooling on all sides?
Airflow can be very difficult to predict. I understand what you mean but it practice, both the single and dual setup work well. People try all sorts of cooling ducts but without trying them you can never really know how they work.
@Ricky Impey true. I have one which I've tried the water test and it made a nice divot. I tried another and it didn't make a divot but seemed to make a whirlwind effect. Both used the same blower. The whirlwind was better.
I think the circular may get the air to the nizzle but then block it from leaving. I try to get side coverage and also keep the air moving away from nozzle area after it has absorbed the heat.
It would be more beneficial to do a bridge test.
How do you connect up the second fan? I've been looking around and have not found one.
I just connected a second fan in parallel with my original fan so it runs off the same pins from the control board.
Damn! I wish I'd found out it doesn't fit Sprite direct drive extruder before spending two quid!
Thanks Ricky for your tests! Do you have a comparison of the Minimus vs. the Creality Sprite Extruder Pro?
I truly love the videos and talk-through! Now I find myself watching the next one, and then the next (and next), learning ideas I didn't know I needed to know😵💫!... As it's my first printer, I want my Ender 3 v2 to be at its best but what have I gotten myself into😮💨?! Well onto the next video🙃
Hi again, i haven't compared the cooling on the Sprite extruder to the Minimus as they aren't interchangeable options. The Minimus currently only fits Bowden style extruders and the Sprite is direct drive.
@@RickyImpey I'm reading on his cults page that the minimus cooler does support Microswiss & other Direct Drive kits
Hi mate, I've run into a problem; as per your description, I went a bought a 4020 fan for the hotend, which fits fine, as well as a couple of turbo 4020 blower fans for the part cooling but I can't seem to find anything in Paul's designs to fit dual 4020 blower fans for the part cooling - can you help? Cheers in advance
I have been wondering on the motherboard load for the dual version.
Would powering two 5015 and a 4020 cause issues to the motherboard??
Hi Ricky
How is the minimus
As you joined the 2 original 40×10 nozzle fans,
have you had any trouble in doing this
I'm just printing it now
For the standard 40×10 nozzle fans
Thanks
So whats the best filement to print this with or is normal pla fine
hi, please you have video about, how filmingtime laps? and my second options is meaby stupid but for my ender 3 s1 pro is what options for this two fan? and where i can plugin power? 😇
Any recommendations for cooling on the S1 Pro for higher speeds with the sonic pad?
I'm planning to try and find the best solution to this as it is the limiting factor to maximum speeds on the S1 Pro. I'm afraid I can't recommend any specific cooling mod just yet though.
Did you need new, longer bolts in order to mount the backplate?
No, it slots over the protruding lugs on my Ender 3v2 backplate and gets sandwiched.
@@RickyImpey Got all the parts printed and will install later. It's as light as a feather fully assembled!
I need your help. I’ve been trying to compile marlin for my mks Robin e3 v1.0 for couple of days. Found this video. Followed it but still same problem
Hi Ricky. Thank you for all of this info. I am new to this and purchased an Ender 3 V2 Neo and I love it so far but it’s slow to print even after changing the nozzle to .6 mm, changing all temperatures and the infill, etc. any ideas on what hardware I can upgrade ? I am changing to the all metal heatbreak. Any ideas would be great. Thanks.
Did you manage to make it print quicker? How?
Hi, great video 👍does this work with ender 3 v2 neo? I'm sure it may have a different heat sink? if so using the stock fans what duct length would you recommend please ?
Sorry, I don't have a Neo to check. The Minimus is now completely free so you can try printing a backing plate and see if it fits.
Hi Ricky, thank you for uploading this and explaning it with such detail. I'm building one of these with the 2 ender 3 stock fans and a extra fan. I'm wondering, how would you arrange each fan intake/exhaust? I also wanted to ask about that thing mounted on the left of your hotend with the purple light, what is that? Thank you for your time
Hi, if you're using stock fans then you want the 4010 files. If you are not sure, then try opening the files in your slicer software so that you can see what they will look like. The item to the side is a CR touch probe. It probes the bed to create a 'mesh' that allows your printer to follow any contours on your bed surface. Some printers come with them but they can often be added. If you don't have issues with a warped bed then I wouldn't worry about adding one.
@@RickyImpey Oh, never heard of CR touch probes before and was curious, but doesn't seem necessary to me atm. Thank you for your guidance through the files and your answer!
A CR or BL touch probe is the best upgrade you can make. No more bed leveling issues!
Hi, tahnks for the video is very informative, but is this cooler support 5015 fan with the Creality Spider 3.0, thanks?
I guess i missed it but I can’t find the wire armadillo in the file. Is it something i have to buy separately?
My favourite mod on my Ender 3 v2 was octoprint - eliminating the SD card shuffle. I've since switched to klipper so I can tinker more with speeds and bed levelling. The BLTouch is a very close second.
I was just wonder if anyone knows or has knowledge on this, is it possible to just use electrical tape to connect all the wiring for the dual 4010 part cooling fan?