I'm just about to get my son practising on his backing coat, I'm halfway through my 46th year plastering so it's like going back to the beginning and hardwall is a great product for learning, once you have mastered backing coats everything else becomes a lot easier.
I've just used hardwall for the first time and found it really good to work with much easier than sand and cement easier to handle and mix and great on high suction walls.
The scratch coat is to de stress the base coat and provide a key for the finish coat. I like to form 6inch circles, scratching through the middle of each circle. This causes a crazing look to the scratch coat and when the finish coat hits it it can shrink in all directions therefore minimising cracking Horizontal lines for heavy material or thick coats. Scribble for thin coats, finish or fillers. Set the scratch depth to whatever the required depth of the finish will be.
5:36 - So, I see you mixing up Hardwall is it? But at what point in the video do you change to a top coat? Is it at 14:56 and is it Multi Finish that you're using?
Hi, In the video we apply 2 layers of hardwall (a scratch coat which you will see curt notching) then we apply the top coat or 'float coat' which is the second layer this layer is finished with the devil float which creates the key for the finish skim (multi finish) which is applied at 14:56 👍 I hope that makes sense thanks for watching Stu Trowel Talk
Great vid. I need to re plaster two areas in my kitchen 1m x 1m where there was water damage. Everything has dried out now. I've taken the plaster coat off to reveal crumbling old dusty render about 15 mm thick. As I understand it I have 3 options: 1) Chisel it all off back to the brick and re-render it then re plaster 2) PVA the old render to seal it and simply re plaster over the top 3) chisel out all the nasty old render and use hardwall plaster undercoat to fill it back up, then a finishing coat over the top What would you do here?
Hi, It depends on a few things really but from what you've described I would take out the most fragile areas, apply pva & dab a piece of board in or fill out with bonding or hardwall the simplist & fastest way is to dab some board in to bring it flush then skim it 👍if you don't want it hollow behind board you can put dab over the whole area before board goes on so it's solid ,use a straight piece of timber or a level to tamp your board on nice & flat.
@@troweltalk2719 many thanks for the reply mate. Actually looking forward to this, my trade is totally different never tried it before. Will give that a go. What's the best Adhesive/dab to use?
Why did you cover the whole surface with scrim mesh before applying the multi finish? Also what strength of PVA would you use for hardwall onto thermalite?
Hi Andrew, we mesh the walls as a precaution against cracking because the bricks are old & the builder had foamed some areas also a new window had recently gone in..these factors increase the risk of cracking so I meshed the areas. As for thermalites be careful here they are very high suction blocks & will suck the life out of your hardwall . Best to hose them down then apply 2 passes with PVA which is mixed up fairly thick. If you find the hardwall pulls in too quickly still, try adding 50% neat SBR to your pva mix or try a product called gyp-prime which will help to kill suction 👍
Hi Jason it depends what your going onto mate I usually apply a watered down mix of pva to Brickwork that has been stripped , brushed down.. as it will be a little dusty. New blockwork unless very high suction (thermalite etc) can usually go straight on with hardwall as it's designed for medium - high suction backgrounds I always aim to keep suction on my side & do not kill it completely is my advise 👍 here is another video I did on hardwall ua-cam.com/video/P5CKDLrRwPw/v-deo.html
Been plastering myself for around 2.5-3 years first time today using hardwall seems like a heavy version of bonding! Quick question did you have mesh over them panels before the skim went on??
Nice tip with the pan, i hate rubbing up gypsum. its supposed to be circle's though not figure 8 as it gets it flatter! Thats why you rub render up with circles.. Not critical for internals.
The Proroc base coat might be similar? I have had a bit of a go with it. Good alternative to sand and cement. Great for small stuff, patching, filling chases. Sand and cement is easier skill wise, but harder on the body 🤣
Magic! Takes me back to when I was learning 25yrs ago! ‘Look after your edges and the rest will look after itself’ 👌💪
No Dave it’s just look after your edges 🤣
Good idea with the notch trowel 👍
Great little video. Keep on cracking on Curtis. You're getting there mate. You've got a spot on boss/mentor. 👍
cracking idea using the dustpan- going try that next week!
I'm just about to get my son practising on his backing coat, I'm halfway through my 46th year plastering so it's like going back to the beginning and hardwall is a great product for learning, once you have mastered backing coats everything else becomes a lot easier.
I've just used hardwall for the first time and found it really good to work with much easier than sand and cement easier to handle and mix and great on high suction walls.
The scratch coat is to de stress the base coat and provide a key for the finish coat.
I like to form 6inch circles, scratching through the middle of each circle.
This causes a crazing look to the scratch coat and when the finish coat hits it it can shrink in all directions therefore minimising cracking
Horizontal lines for heavy material or thick coats.
Scribble for thin coats, finish or fillers.
Set the scratch depth to whatever the required depth of the finish will be.
Great tips with the dustpan, I would never have thought of doing that. Always learning!👍
Keep it up Curt, you will get there. Looking forward to that next video Stu.
Collage and site are two different things that’s all I will say on that great video lads
Nice to see the teaching 😀
Nice tip with the dust pan I've seen it before but just thought the lad had lost his float 😂
Good videos stu I'm always watching them
Have you ever worked with straw walls? Ie a British steel framed house? Do you cover near Birmingham airport ?
Nice little tip mate 👍
5:36 - So, I see you mixing up Hardwall is it? But at what point in the video do you change to a top coat? Is it at 14:56 and is it Multi Finish that you're using?
Hi,
In the video we apply 2 layers of hardwall (a scratch coat which you will see curt notching) then we apply the top coat or 'float coat' which is the second layer this layer is finished with the devil float which creates the key for the finish skim (multi finish) which is applied at 14:56 👍 I hope that makes sense thanks for watching
Stu
Trowel Talk
Great vid. I need to re plaster two areas in my kitchen 1m x 1m where there was water damage. Everything has dried out now. I've taken the plaster coat off to reveal crumbling old dusty render about 15 mm thick. As I understand it I have 3 options:
1) Chisel it all off back to the brick and re-render it then re plaster
2) PVA the old render to seal it and simply re plaster over the top
3) chisel out all the nasty old render and use hardwall plaster undercoat to fill it back up, then a finishing coat over the top
What would you do here?
Hi,
It depends on a few things really but from what you've described I would take out the most fragile areas, apply pva & dab a piece of board in or fill out with bonding or hardwall the simplist & fastest way is to dab some board in to bring it flush then skim it 👍if you don't want it hollow behind board you can put dab over the whole area before board goes on so it's solid ,use a straight piece of timber or a level to tamp your board on nice & flat.
@@troweltalk2719 many thanks for the reply mate. Actually looking forward to this, my trade is totally different never tried it before. Will give that a go. What's the best Adhesive/dab to use?
Why did you cover the whole surface with scrim mesh before applying the multi finish? Also what strength of PVA would you use for hardwall onto thermalite?
Hi Andrew, we mesh the walls as a precaution against cracking because the bricks are old & the builder had foamed some areas also a new window had recently gone in..these factors increase the risk of cracking so I meshed the areas.
As for thermalites be careful here they are very high suction blocks & will suck the life out of your hardwall . Best to hose them down then apply 2 passes with PVA which is mixed up fairly thick. If you find the hardwall pulls in too quickly still, try adding 50% neat SBR to your pva mix or try a product called gyp-prime which will help to kill suction 👍
Some people have said not to use this on external walls, what's your opinion?
do you pva the background when using hardwall..
Hi Jason it depends what your going onto mate I usually apply a watered down mix of pva to Brickwork that has been stripped , brushed down.. as it will be a little dusty. New blockwork unless very high suction (thermalite etc) can usually go straight on with hardwall as it's designed for medium - high suction backgrounds I always aim to keep suction on my side & do not kill it completely is my advise 👍 here is another video I did on hardwall
ua-cam.com/video/P5CKDLrRwPw/v-deo.html
Been plastering myself for around 2.5-3 years first time today using hardwall seems like a heavy version of bonding! Quick question did you have mesh over them panels before the skim went on??
Hi Kevin yes we did mesh them as a fail safe against cracking. Reason being the brickwork wasn't the best
Nice tip with the pan, i hate rubbing up gypsum. its supposed to be circle's though not figure 8 as it gets it flatter! Thats why you rub render up with circles.. Not critical for internals.
Get curtis a board and stand and have him learn how to take muck from the board and cut it from his hawk 👍
Good shout. We sometimes use the spot board where space allows 👍 mostly on big wet plaster jobs
I've never scratched coat floating.
Horses for courses 👍
That looks sticky gear,we do not have here in Australia that i know of
I threw some accelerator in the mix which set it off quick !
The Proroc base coat might be similar? I have had a bit of a go with it. Good alternative to sand and cement. Great for small stuff, patching, filling chases. Sand and cement is easier skill wise, but harder on the body 🤣
@@spbygga8123 Yeah that's about all i could think of,I have not tried the Proroc products but keen to have a go