Great to see British Gypsum putting out some practical demos of its products. Looking forward to seeing more.. Plus as one of BGs approved training partners based in Hampshire we will soon be adding our own versions of the same aimed at our many learners who would require more detail of the application process and the reasons why etc.. Spreading the word for all !!
Thank you for this smashing presentation. I was taking the bags of Hardwall off the shelf in a retail builders merchant yesterday and chap doing the same was going to build up the Hardwall plaster layer to a thickness of 25mm - over double what your advising here! I need 15 to 18mm on mine. Anyway, thank you again.
I may as well have my two penneth worth. As a heritage craftsman who only works on older houses like these I have to take my hat off to British Gypsum for their marketing strategy. They've successfully cornered the market and have got everyone using these expensive and unnecessary products. I'm currently doing the same job on a 1930s semi and can tell you this: I haven't, and won't, and don't need to use a single BG product because I'm using lime. Which means 1 lime and 3 sand for a haired scratch and float coat. This is followed by a skim of putty and fine sand. No need to use that metal angle beading either. I don't even bother with wooden ones. The result is breathable and flexible plaster i.e. exactly the same as that which was used to build and plaster houses back in the 1930s. Looks lovely with a couple of coats of breathable paint such as Farrow and Ball. What makes me laugh is the way it's possible to buy every single BG product down at Wickes or B&Q but you won't find a bag of lime or a tub of putty. How times have changed. That lad needs to eat a few pork pies for his lunch and start mixing some proper gear.
Yeah the lime work is a lost art. I did the same on my house … 2/3 coat of lime every where, I re installed the staff beads and reskimmed the walls with putty. I used a breathable primer but I’m not sure if I had too or not
You're quite right, when it is being devilled up with the float we run the edge of the float up and down the bead to give it a chamfered rebate ready for the finish coat. Not ideal as it means the finish is a mil or do proud of the bead, this is how the old way with rules for floating and external twitcher is better😊
Wouldn't make much on the meter in a day doing it thst way between 3 plasterers we mix in a half barrel 7 bags and mix 2 barrels that's over and background
@@lukedruggan6839 yeah - i mixed bonding & hardwall (in equal amounts) in a big ass flexi tub - it mixed fine - but i found it a nightmare to apply & rule off with my feather edge!!!!
the product is NOT good in our experience. Rather brittle, application of 6mm coats with devil floating is not advisable. Product description/technical info is inconsistent, the individual packs contain poor information. To call it suitable for high suction substrates, e.g. aircrete blocks is a joke. Be warned that if dont apply primer (and NOT PVA) in bucket loads, the hardwall will dry and crack in no time.
Wayhay it’s Jon from Build With A&E!
Great to see British Gypsum putting out some practical demos of its products. Looking forward to seeing more.. Plus as one of BGs approved training partners based in Hampshire we will soon be adding our own versions of the same aimed at our many learners who would require more detail of the application process and the reasons why etc.. Spreading the word for all !!
Thank you for this smashing presentation.
I was taking the bags of Hardwall off the shelf in a retail builders merchant yesterday and chap doing the same was going to build up the Hardwall plaster layer to a thickness of 25mm - over double what your advising here! I need 15 to 18mm on mine.
Anyway, thank you again.
Hardwall can be applied to 25mm might just need a couple of passes
@@lukedruggan6839 Thank you.
I may as well have my two penneth worth. As a heritage craftsman who only works on older houses like these I have to take my hat off to British Gypsum for their marketing strategy. They've successfully cornered the market and have got everyone using these expensive and unnecessary products. I'm currently doing the same job on a 1930s semi and can tell you this: I haven't, and won't, and don't need to use a single BG product because I'm using lime. Which means 1 lime and 3 sand for a haired scratch and float coat. This is followed by a skim of putty and fine sand. No need to use that metal angle beading either. I don't even bother with wooden ones. The result is breathable and flexible plaster i.e. exactly the same as that which was used to build and plaster houses back in the 1930s. Looks lovely with a couple of coats of breathable paint such as Farrow and Ball. What makes me laugh is the way it's possible to buy every single BG product down at Wickes or B&Q but you won't find a bag of lime or a tub of putty. How times have changed. That lad needs to eat a few pork pies for his lunch and start mixing some proper gear.
Yeah the lime work is a lost art.
I did the same on my house … 2/3 coat of lime every where, I re installed the staff beads and reskimmed the walls with putty. I used a breathable primer but I’m not sure if I had too or not
How is there room for the finish coat at the beads after hardwall has been levelled off with featheredge.
When devil floating you can float slightly behind the bead, or just stick skim beads over what ever you prefer
@@John-gg7udyou typically scrape back the area next to the bead to allow room for the skim to go
Nether put any gypsum products on a old brick fireplace you will have major problems with salts and damp, only use lime
Congrats Jon, great ambassador for these products! Is hardwall ok to go on aerated blocks or is it too strong?
fine just sbr it fist
it states clearly on the bag do not use bonding agents
yep. All part of the poor and inconsistent tech info by BG!
great video gives a good idea of what is involved. Wouldn't it be normal to remove the ceiling coving?
No never
Why have you prime a wall with primeG not PVA ?
Thanks for the demonstration
Great to learn
Do you let the first coat dry before applying 2nd coat on hardwall?
Float right to left (right handed) or, toe to heel with the trowel. Skim left to right or, heel to toe. Opposite for a left hander.
It really doesn’t matter on a wall that size
When you levelled the hard wall you filled up to the top of the beads so have nothing to work to with the finish plaster? Did you add more beads?
You're quite right, when it is being devilled up with the float we run the edge of the float up and down the bead to give it a chamfered rebate ready for the finish coat. Not ideal as it means the finish is a mil or do proud of the bead, this is how the old way with rules for floating and external twitcher is better😊
Nice job💪🏻
Gypprime ?? Why not pva ?
why are you covering up that lovely brickwork?
Shutup
Wouldn't make much on the meter in a day doing it thst way between 3 plasterers we mix in a half barrel 7 bags and mix 2 barrels that's over and background
Not sure for high suction background can I just use PVA or gyprime?
Pva is fine as long as the background is porous
is it ok to mix thistle hardwall & bonding plaster together - in equal amounts - and then apply to pva'd brickwork???
Should work fine mate
@@lukedruggan6839 nah - i tried it & it was a friggin nightmare to apply & rule off - so lesson learnt!!!!!
@@mrv5801 mixed together? Never put bonding ontop of hardwall or vice versa but I've used it mixed together and worked fine for me
@@lukedruggan6839 yeah - i mixed bonding & hardwall (in equal amounts) in a big ass flexi tub - it mixed fine - but i found it a nightmare to apply & rule off with my feather edge!!!!
Some spreads mix multi and bonding coat for skimming anyone ever tried multi and Harwell???
Gypsum based material on a chimney Breast
Flexi bead?
can i use diluted PVA instead of thistle gypprime???
Not supposed to ask that out loud on this kind of video. But yeahhhhhh
@@funkeybikemonkey im guessin ur not sponsored by British Gypsum!!!! LOL
Jon has gone rogue! And broken off from A+E and gone on his own! 🤣
I am a 77 year old retired plasterer
and skimming proud of the nosing on the bead was a fault that the clerk of works would pick up on
Its u2's bono on the trowel
That was a lovely brick chimney breast I would keep it without plastering
Shame it was covered in all that shit.
what did we do before PVA and angle beads, lightweights😂
nobody noticed you spelled it wrong in the title?
Is it good working practice to put hardwall on chimney breasts asking for a freind
Nearly 20 quid a bag!
Soot migrates. Over time youll get it coming back out of the wall especially since you've put solid plaster over it.
It was BG that gave me the information😂😂😂😂😂
😎👍
the product is NOT good in our experience. Rather brittle, application of 6mm coats with devil floating is not advisable. Product description/technical info is inconsistent, the individual packs contain poor information. To call it suitable for high suction substrates, e.g. aircrete blocks is a joke. Be warned that if dont apply primer (and NOT PVA) in bucket loads, the hardwall will dry and crack in no time.
Unessary load background music effing annoying
Tbh hardwall stinks and isn’t hard. Better use cement render then skim coat on top.
mixture please?
That's how we do it in California
Bendy bead? .... this is.... whatever
O 😦 a las
"wall is nice and prepped" yeah thanks for letting me know what with 🙄
He said gypprime!
Why is wearing swimming goggles
Bollocks video it’s not by the book you wouldn’t flatten a wall you’ve just ruled with a trowel says it all
Omg he is not a plasterer. He went away from the bead, get lost you lost me.