I wasn't planning on doing mine right now but in prepping for the high top swap it was necessary. And wow I'm glad I did! If the sealant is lifting a bit then it is a perfect environment for rust underneath.
I have the same issue with my 2007 e150. After I removed as much rail sealer as I could I use this stuff called right stuff. It converts the rust. But I actually sand it off after I use that right stuff. And it goes all the way back down to the bare bright metal. I do not just convert the rust and leave it. This stuff actually helps remove it.
Planning to do this to my van come summer. Good video, but I don't have the guts to do it your way.....I think I'll do sections at a time. Life and weather get in the way, and I don't want to have too much exposed at a time in case something comes up.
Honestly there's no real issue if it gets wet when you have the sealant removed other than that you might have some leaking into the van. It isn't a huge project: two or three afternoons depending on how the old stuff comes out. I would be concerned doing it in sections that there would be some overlap that wouldn't seal properly or still have some rust underneath.
Yeah I would definitely get in there with seam sealer. If you just do rust converter that will stop the problem temporarily but to finish the job you have a few more steps.
I gave this some thought. I think for pinholes epoxy is a fine solution. If you have larger sections the best move would be to cut and weld in new metal, but that is pretty involved. You could also grind away the rusted parts and rebuild the rail with fiberglass, but that wouldn't be as strong as welded metal if you intend to mount things on the rail like awnings or roof racks.
@PowerstrokeEconoline thank you. Yeah, just have a few spots, no mounting. Any suggestions on fiberglass products, I am pretty smart, but I am a construction worker, not a car guy, at least when it comes body work, I am not that knowledgeable.
I am actually working on a video with a ton of fiberglass work in it right now but it's taking forever due to January weather in Seattle. Fiberglass is pretty easy to work with. You can use polyester resin or epoxy; I prefer epoxy because it provides a stronger mechanical bond than polyester. You mix the resin and then use it to wet out glass cloth and let cure. Or you can mix in additives to make adhesives or fillers like Bondo. West Systems has excellent free online manuals on how to do fiberglass repair. I've used a lot of West Systems and Hawk epoxies but am using US Composites out of West Palm Beach for the latest project.
@PowerstrokeEconoline your amazing my friend, look forward to this information! Thank you from the bottom of my heart,you have no idea how you help us all out here! My beast, as I like to call her, has been with me since 2002! If she could growl a 7.3 liter roar and bring you inside her beautiful van home from the Seattle rain, she would say your name a thousand times as she rumbles down the road another 200,000 plus miles! Bless you! 🙌
This has been on my “list” for a few years!! 😂
I wasn't planning on doing mine right now but in prepping for the high top swap it was necessary. And wow I'm glad I did! If the sealant is lifting a bit then it is a perfect environment for rust underneath.
I have the same issue with my 2007 e150. After I removed as much rail sealer as I could I use this stuff called right stuff. It converts the rust. But I actually sand it off after I use that right stuff. And it goes all the way back down to the bare bright metal. I do not just convert the rust and leave it. This stuff actually helps remove it.
There are a ton of various rust products out there. I'm not convinced that any of them are better than taking it down to bare metal with a wire wheel.
Planning to do this to my van come summer. Good video, but I don't have the guts to do it your way.....I think I'll do sections at a time. Life and weather get in the way, and I don't want to have too much exposed at a time in case something comes up.
Honestly there's no real issue if it gets wet when you have the sealant removed other than that you might have some leaking into the van. It isn't a huge project: two or three afternoons depending on how the old stuff comes out. I would be concerned doing it in sections that there would be some overlap that wouldn't seal properly or still have some rust underneath.
Hello, interesting vid, what is the role of the sealer, I mean, what if you just repaint the gutter and thats all?
The gutter contains a joint between the roof and the side panel. The sealer, well, seals the joint to prevent rust.
@@PowerstrokeEconoline ok So I'd bette have a deeper look because few months ago I only put some rust converter. thx
Yeah I would definitely get in there with seam sealer. If you just do rust converter that will stop the problem temporarily but to finish the job you have a few more steps.
heat it up with a small propane torch first. do about 1 ft. at a time and it comes off pretty easy.
That's good advice, I didn't think to try that.
Any suggestions on rebuilding small sections of the gutter rails that got eaten up by rust?
I gave this some thought. I think for pinholes epoxy is a fine solution. If you have larger sections the best move would be to cut and weld in new metal, but that is pretty involved. You could also grind away the rusted parts and rebuild the rail with fiberglass, but that wouldn't be as strong as welded metal if you intend to mount things on the rail like awnings or roof racks.
@PowerstrokeEconoline thank you. Yeah, just have a few spots, no mounting. Any suggestions on fiberglass products, I am pretty smart, but I am a construction worker, not a car guy, at least when it comes body work, I am not that knowledgeable.
I am actually working on a video with a ton of fiberglass work in it right now but it's taking forever due to January weather in Seattle. Fiberglass is pretty easy to work with. You can use polyester resin or epoxy; I prefer epoxy because it provides a stronger mechanical bond than polyester. You mix the resin and then use it to wet out glass cloth and let cure. Or you can mix in additives to make adhesives or fillers like Bondo. West Systems has excellent free online manuals on how to do fiberglass repair. I've used a lot of West Systems and Hawk epoxies but am using US Composites out of West Palm Beach for the latest project.
@PowerstrokeEconoline your amazing my friend, look forward to this information! Thank you from the bottom of my heart,you have no idea how you help us all out here! My beast, as I like to call her, has been with me since 2002! If she could growl a 7.3 liter roar and bring you inside her beautiful van home from the Seattle rain, she would say your name a thousand times as she rumbles down the road another 200,000 plus miles! Bless you! 🙌