Відео

No. The batteries were dead, odometer showed somewhere upwards of half a million miles, and the owner said there were multiple issues with the cooling and oil systems. I took as much as I could from it though. If I hadn't been living in a studio apartment at the time I would have tried to do more.

I mostly wear boots ;)

Glad I could help!

I don't think so. The "roll cage" on the inner liner was barely attached to the van and wouldn't have provided any security in an accident, or if a tree dropped on the roof. I think it was purely cosmetic.

I haven't finished out the interior yet but will box them in with wooden trim.

Lots on the docket! I've been busy with work lately and haven't had time to do many van projects or edit videos.

Hope these help!

You're welcome, glad you liked it.

I bought the parts van for $1k.

I'll do a followup video this fall. It'll be a bit more than a year from initial application. Spoiler alert: it's ok. Not great, not terrible.

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind for when I do tackle the turbo.

amzn.to/3z5c4e5

I'd take a look at the linkages. There are some screws that can come loose underneath the steering column and cause problems.

@@PowerstrokeEconoline I checked all the the torx screws but all nice and snug. Also fixed one of the shift tube bushings. I'm suspecting a possible ignition switch issue. Ive been experiencing some erratic shifts too. I've already changed out the PCM, shift solenoid pack, range sensor, brake switch, interlock solenoid, and key cylinder lol. I heard a bad ingition switch can cause shift issues. I already checked all the grounds and redid the battery negatives... Is there a relay that could be sticking?

I'm still pretty happy with it. Not sure about the bedliner I sprayed overtop; thinking fluid film might be a better option. But I'm still learning also.

Yeah honestly I think doing injectors, wiring harnesses, glow plugs, wiring pigtails, and CCV vent o rings all at the same time makes the most sense. But doing just the glow plugs isn't too difficult compared to injectors. Just make sure you get legit OEM glow plugs; I've heard horror stories of knock-offs swelling and breaking off inside the head at the tip.

Yes Motorcraft all the way. Learned that with the Dorman GPR

​@@sylvainlaforest4393 gotcha. Bummer. Those are also difficult to reach. I went with a stancor and thus far haven't had any trouble.

Thanks. Lots of learning for me with this van. And yeah since doing the injectors I took the van for a two week work training in Oregon and a two week paragliding competition in central WA and it was excellent.

Nice. From what I understand the 6.0 can be a fine engine if you fix a few things: oil pump and studs? But I think clearance for injector replacement is harder than on the 7.3.

@@PowerstrokeEconoline biggest weak link in the 6.0 is the lifters.

​@@ardenbriggs1190oh interesting. I haven't done a lot of learning on the 6.0. it seemed like the bulletproofing process was outside of my skill level and facilities, so I looked for a 7.3. but a newer body would be nice.

I considered doing injector cups and did a ton of reading. Forum posts are split pretty evenly between "do it all now so you don't have to later" and "if it ain't broke don't fix it". I think that doing injector cups would have taken me a lot more time and from what I understand can be really difficult in a van without pulling the engine. So I'm in the "ain't broke" crowd. Hopefully that doesn't come back to bite me!

@@PowerstrokeEconoline riffraff sells/rents a tool to do the injector cups pretty easily with the engine still in, my buddy rented it and said it was a life saver and did the cups in a day. I wasn't going to do mine but unfortunately I have a crack in one of them so I'm just going to replace them all.

​@@asalvanoRosewood also has a tool. Did your buddy do cups on a truck or van? The issue I was concerned about is just being able to reach in there to clean out the old adhesive, particularly on #1 and #3. I was on a bit of a time crunch also; if you have time then it would probably be more doable.

@@PowerstrokeEconoline he did it in a van, and to clean out the old adhesive he used an electric ratcheting wrench and connected a wire brush to it. That's what I'm going to do seems like it would be easier than trying to clean it by hand. The only thing I'm concerned about is I don't have a driveway or garage to do it in so I'm going to be doing it on the side of the road.

Thanks! Removing the solenoid on #3 really wasn't difficult. Putting the solenoid back on the new one after installation was a little bit of a pain because it was really difficult to hold the torx bit down while wrenching on it. I got it to click on three of the four screws, and the other one felt equally tight but the bit kept popping off before the torque wrench clicked. Hopefully good enough. Spoiler alert, I got the van running again and overall am really happy about the whole project. I'll post the second part with what actually fixed in a couple of days.

Yeah, just a little.

I have a buddy who did exactly that. I think it's probably a good move and I have a spare battery box in my junk pile in case I ever decide to do the same. It would make disconnecting the batteries a little more difficult when you're working on electrical systems or welding, which is a con. It also makes the batteries a bit more difficult to replace. It would also change the wiring runs but ultimately I think it would shorten the overall length of cable required, which would be more efficient in terms of voltage drop/resistance.

@@PowerstrokeEconoline Thanks for the reply! Yea agree with the potential cons, i was thinking if I relocated them I would also add a disconnect some where close so hopefully that would solve that bit.

I removed the fuel bowl on my parts van and it wasn't that difficult.....after I removed the turbo, resonator, alternator, and air intake! I have a reseal kit for mine and was going to do it this spring but ultimately decided to wait. It's really difficult to get at it from the doghouse side without pulling the turbo. I've heard of folks going in from the front but I think it would be equally difficult without removing the alternator. I'm going to rebuild mine at the same time as servicing the turbo. Good luck and lemme know how it works out!

@@PowerstrokeEconoline I wound up getting some coach net towing and got towed to a repair shop . They were in and out in less than 3 hours . Replaced the drain valve thru the doghouse . $454 total for about 3 hours . $63 for the part in California. The rest was labor . I've put about 240 miles on it since being repaired . Thankfully no leaks

Wow that is really reasonable! Glad you got it sorted out.

Personally I like driving a manual but I don't think I'll ever go down that line with the van. If I make any major changes to the drivetrain it would be converting to 4x4. As to the belt, that's a pretty simple swap. You just need a breaker bar to lever open the belt tensioner, then it slips right on/off. On some of the trucks there is an upper radiator hose that runs through the belt, but I haven't seen that on any of the 7.3 vans. I'll make a video about the water pump if/when mine fails. Hopefully never!

Good luck! It would be a pretty easy job to add in when replacing front brake pads / rotors / bearings.

Frankly no. I ended up replacing the injectors and IDM last month and now we're firing on all cylinders.

@@PowerstrokeEconoline good to hear anyways. Mine will do good around town but it seems like after driving for a few hours it will almost act like it’s running out of fuel, then run horribly until it or you give up. Pressures all look good.

That doesn't sound like an injector problem to me, but rather a fuel problem. Have you dropped the tank and cleaned the fuel screens? These vans have issues with fuel tank liner delamination and it will clog those filter screens right up.

@@PowerstrokeEconoline yes, I did that recently and replaced with a less restrictive sending unit. It’s an f-250 converted to a 6 door excursion so I’m going to check the wiring next. The canister filters seemed okay.. also going yo check fuel pressure next if I can replicate it

I haven't heard that. Please tell me more. How is it any different in terms of safety from the passenger side?

@@PowerstrokeEconoline The driver's side is usually occupied. They're supposedly not as safe in a crash and that why they won't insurethem

Good luck! It's definitely work to repair. I have some body rust to fix still but the interior is good now.

65mph.

Please do!

The gutter contains a joint between the roof and the side panel. The sealer, well, seals the joint to prevent rust.

@@PowerstrokeEconoline ok So I'd bette have a deeper look because few months ago I only put some rust converter. thx

Yeah I would definitely get in there with seam sealer. If you just do rust converter that will stop the problem temporarily but to finish the job you have a few more steps.

Awesome! I've got a stack of raw video to edit: injectors, uvch, glowplugs, steering wheel and clockspring replacement, idm swap, diesel heater installation and dropping the fuel tank....been busy!

There are a ton of various rust products out there. I'm not convinced that any of them are better than taking it down to bare metal with a wire wheel.

It felt like being in a sound studio.

You're welcome! More to come, that is for sure!

The heat worked great this winter! And the van runs rough until it is warm, so I don't mind it getting a bit warmer than stock. Otherwise I can't say that I've noticed anything significant. My fuel economy was around 19 mpg highway beforehand and more or less the same after. I just sent some engine oil in for analysis so that will be my first real insight into wear on the engine.

Valid points. I think durability is the main reason to upgrade to the Stancor. It is a burlier unit with larger contacts and a stronger build, and should outlast the OEM unit. I don't think current draw is really a concern, it's more with burning out the contacts over time, which will happen as a result of normal wear and tear over years of regular use even if the glow plugs aren't offering increased resistance. As far as tests, I know that my old OEM relay was providing less voltage on the draw side than on the feed side, so there was an issue with the unit itself. Despite buying a van with 300k+ miles, I don't love wrenching around under the doghouse so replacing the OEM GPR with a beefier unit that should outlast the stock replacement for not a lot more cost made sense to me. I couldn't agree more about the bandaid concern, and I will be replacing my glow plugs (and injectors and UVCH) this spring/summer once budget and weather allow. Anytime you have an issue with one component of a 20+ year old system that is subject to wear and heat and dirt and vibration, I think it's pretty likely that if one piece fails the others aren't far behind.

I've got a pair of doors without windows for sale, if you want them!

@@PowerstrokeEconoline I've got a cutaway chassis with an ambulance box. But thanks for the offer!

@@TheDogsBox I see that now. I debated the door swap for a while but ultimately I decided that the added visibility both into the blind spot and for passengers is worth the decreased insulation. Considering putting a bench seat back there for passengers. I think that making quilted insulation panels with magnetic attachments gives you the flexibility to have both.

​@@PowerstrokeEconolineI'm interested in doors$?

I haven't weighed the van since the top swap, so can't say for sure. I would estimate that the high top weighs between 125lb and 150lb, and that the roof we cut off was around 40lbs. Total guesswork based on my experience lifting kettleballs and 7 gallon water jugs.