How To Balance a Grinding Wheel on a Tormach PSG 612 Grinder
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- Опубліковано 14 гру 2016
- Learn how to properly balance a grinding wheel on the Tormach PSG 612 Surface Grinder.
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Good video. Yes you are right this may be the forth opinion. I would like to share our practices with you. We start the ballancing process with all the split taper weights removed to find the natural ballance of the hub and wheel. After dressing we then add two weights to the hub moving them equal distance towards the lighter side. It may require to add the third weight to the light side and fixed it and then readjust the two side weights. Redress the wheel and recheck the ballance, making adjustments only to the two side weights. The smallest tolerance we work to is .00005" surface finish 2 micron internl radius on cylindrical sholders .001"rad. Happy Precision Tool Making.
very good beginners video, good clear info, esp. on safety and mounting the wheels, but one question why do you keep the magnet "switch" - ie the Allen key in the chuck with the grinder running??
Definitely a different method than i use. I balance 14" wheels (1.5" - 3" wide), usually under 5 minutes. I balance before concentric grind and post concentric grind. I use a wheel based static balance stand. I place wheel on arbor, on the stand without any weights. Wait for it to settle. Place weight at top (low spot). Rotate 90 degrees, see if the heavy spot is the same or at the new weight. As it rotates, i watch the speed of rotation to the new heavy spot. That gives me a clue where to place my 2nd & 3rd counter weights. From there if i didn't nail it first time (i often do), i only have to move my weights a couple mm at most to get perfect balance.
Just balanced a 500mm diameter wheel.. I know how to dress grind and mount wheels but I had never actually balanced one.
Great video, balancing a big wheel is also a nightmare specially when it's hard to lift 🤣
That's a Very Nice Video I Needed for the experiment 👍🏻
Thank goodness you wore your safety glasses the whole video. Never can be too safe!
you can sell the level on ebay--old timers and students will buy them. Instead take any surface ground plate even a kurt vice jaw and lay it on top of the rails of the balancer--place a big steel ball bearing on and adjust till the ball does not roll--fast and easy-and far more accurate even for leveling machines or anything. that is in fact the way to do it and the various big ball bearings are cheap--i have a bunch from 7/8 up to two inches. its astonishing how cheap they are.
About balancing , just looking at you doing this , can you try the following if you get time and let me know how you go. Seeing the weights are three forming a weighted triangle take the screws off and let the wheel find its low . With the wheel at its low mark a vertical line through centre of system and place two screws at 60 degrees either side of the vertical above horizontal. Let the wheel find its new low and place the last weight at top dead centre .
Thanks for the feedback Kaveman. We will give this a try on the next wheel we need to balance.
Is it normal for older surface grinders to have the mounted and used wheels pop off of the taper that easy? Mine seems to be really on there. Do i need a tool to take the used wheel and arbor off?
That's a very slow way....take all weights out first.
When done rocking, mark exactly the top opposite side, [lighter side] where you mount a weight and never be moved again, the two other weights mount always the same distance from the permanent weight until balanced. Go dress it and balance again on a new wheel which haven't been dressed....DANGER...a new wheel can be badly out of balance, a good idea is to just hit the on and off button and dress..not to go full speed until wheel dresses round. [can skip one balancing].
Nice...
yes what they said below. Take the weights out and mark heavy. Now put them back in one on the heavy the other 2 at equal spots--take a second to visualize it--now estimate how bad and how heavy the heavy is and move the 2 weights up towards the lite side the correct amount keeping in mind that it is not necessary to spend an hour to balance to a trillionth of a nano ounce--remember that you can grind all year without balancing the wheels to begin with. When you do your first adjustment quickly check the balance and make possibly one more tweak moving on the 2 weights and thats good.. after you have done it a few times I assure you that you get a feel for how bad its out of balance and if in a world olympics of wheel balancing contest for gold metal trust me you can move those 2 weights and call it good like an expert.. Total time possibly one minute. Something else to chime in for future reference. I did a test to show before and after on an extremely unbalanced wheel that vibrated so bad it wiggled the downfeed down a little. I dressed the wheel and without balancing tried to show the effect on a surface and there was zero out of balance marks although possibly using some kind of method they may have been detectable. When a wheel puts the dish marks like its out of balance what that actually is is that nobody tightens the wheel enough on the hub. When the wheel contacts the work when roughing it knocks the wheel imperceptibly out of concentric..
32 years precision grinding and I have never once balanced a 1/2 inch wide wheel. Use a hub without balancers for 1/2 inch wide wheels. Lots of instructional videos on balancing wheels by people that I can tell have not used a grinder more than a few hours in their life.
why would stopping the wheel change the dress?
can you show how to mount a diamond wheel?
Thanks for watching! As a general rule, it is good practice to dress your wheel after each startup, but also, dressing each time ensures that the diameter of the wheel is parallel to the chuck.
As Tormach doesn't carry diamond wheels, we can't show the process. But, mounting and balancing a diamond wheel doesn't requiring dressing, otherwise it would be a similar process.
Tormach Inc. Why would the wheel not be parallel after dressing and restarting the machine? You say it's a general rule but what happens when the wheel stops and restarts? Is there heat loss or heat soak?
Whew that grind looked rough.
Good 👍
I do not know who told you that if you turn a surface grinder off you need to redress the wheel when you turn it on, but they are dead wrong. We refer to that in machining as an old wives tale.
That was my question, why is the dressing useless if you stop the wheel?
@@k.bellingham8335 no its not on a propper machine
why you said that if you stop the wheel dressing will be workless ? Im not agree whit you on that Rafael Portland Oregon
When the wheel is started, the acceleration can slightly shift the wheel in the hub. Also if there is any moisture in the wheel from coolant, it can soften the resin and cause the wheel to slightly distort. If either of those happen, it may only have a minor effect (
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR ANSWER I APPRECIATED
You're welcome! Glad we could help.
Tormach Inc. these are not resinoid bond wheels. If they were, water wouldn’t do anything to them anyways. They are designed to be used with coolant
@@matman7546 water won't change the composition, but like a porous sponge, if it's turned off and sits for a while the water will drain to one side, which changes the balance. Not enough perhaps to be worth rebalancing (futile anyways since the water will continue to redistribute) but a light dressing can help address any minor runout introduced by a change in balance.
Hi thanks for education
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Show!
Now I'm thinking how it can help me to balance my 30$ bench grinder to be on the same level =)
I did and it improved its operation a lot.
sharpie marks deep, I prefer pencil.
This is good if you have a $10,000 grinder!!! What if you've got a $250 craftsman grinder!!!
This is good if you've got a $10,000.00 grinder!!! What if all you've got is a $250.00 craftsman grinder???
Вибачте але результат не задовільний , немає чистої обробки , дуже видний слід йолочки - протектора !!!
too slow--wrong balancing method and leveling the thing just put a ground plate on top with a big 1 inch ball bearing and level it better and faster. you dressed the wheel forward and back--you knurled the wheel ok for roughing but will produce bad finish on a finished surface. dressing produces a helix--dress one way only on final dress. after doing that now for your final finish pass on work you must go the opposite way you dressed.