How to Balance a Surface Grinder Wheel!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 гру 2017
- Balance a Surface Grinding Wheel. The last part of the Surface Grinding Wheel trilogy. Let's TRUE IT UP with our home-made Surface Grinding Wheel Balancer. How accurate does a balancer have to be? The answer might surprise you.
Fusion 360 File: bit.ly/2pw1J6j
NYC CNC Publishes weekly content on CNC, CAD, CAM & Manufacturing including the Wednesday Widget CNC project and Fusion Friday Fusion 360 tutorial! 5 Reasons to Use a Fixture Plate on Your CNC Machine: bit.ly/3sNA4uH - Наука та технологія
John, get rid of those sealed bearings and rinse the grease out of shielded bearings. Replace the grease with light oil. You can also get spherical outer race bearings to reduce surface contact, but if the shaft has any dimples in it, that will be worse. I bet there is dirt or a slightly raised imperfection spot on the shaft where it pushes away from "#2". Like others suggested, nudge the wheel a tiny bit to see if it moves easier at different positions. The balancing shaft needs to exactly true to the bore of the wheel arbor. You can rotate the shaft in the arbor 180 degrees and re-check the balance. If it changes, there is a problem with the shaft assembly.
John: When I worked as a toolmaker, I balanced a lot of wheels, Mostly, because my colleagues knew i could do it faster.
The way I used to balance grinding wheels is as follows:
First: remove old wheel, remove all remaining pieces of labels, remove balancing weights, and clean the entire hub.
Then, install new wheel (without weights), and dress until the wheel is running true.
Remove wheel with hub, and place on spindle for balancing (the machines i worked with, had a puller to get the wheel from the machine without needing a hammer)
Level balancer ( I used "knife-edge" balancers, which have less friction, almost none actually) and put the wheel on it
Let go, and determine the "heavy side" of the wheel, it will turn to the bottom.. Mark the wheel directly above the hub with a sharpie (yes, directly opposite of the "heavy point"
This is where the first weight goes, and stays! so the center of mass is on the vertical axis of the wheel as it is sitting now.
the center of mass is now on a line, between the spindle and that first weight.
The other two weights now go on, on an angle slightly less than 120°, symmetrical from the first weight, thereby shifting the center of mass vertically on that line between the first weight and the "heavy point" of the wheel.
By slightly moving the 2 weights, keeping them symmetrical, you can slightly shift the center of mass.. if you put the first weight horizontal and it sinks, the other 2 need to go higher, if it rises, the other to should be lowered..
To make really sure everything is right, put one weight on the bottom, and see what happens,
By putting it on the bottom, it has no effect on the measurement because it exerts no torque, so it "eliminates itself from the equation", and you can easily see which weight has to move,
A good rule of thumb: the weight goes in the opposite direction of the rotation of the wheel.
Super!
I know this is an older post, but you are obviously experienced, my question is does the amount of weight needed to balance the wheel decrease the further from the center you add or subtract. Also, I do not have the movable weight type of adapters so instead of drilling out material I add weight by using super glue to the light side (it soaks in and seems to work fine ), do you think this could be an issue?
thanks
This is exactly the same method, how the Okamoto's applications engineer taught me.
hey john I would take the grease out of the bearing and use light oil or dry... would take some of the drag out of the spinning.
vettepicking - Or just a small puff of graphite powder. Every shop should have some!
Graphite powder is dust that will collect at the bottom of the outer races and ball bearings will tend to "get stuck" in it. Graphite lubricants are for "sliding" lubrication. Precision-machined roller bearings with dust in them will are going to be ball bearings with dust in them. Not an ideal situation by any stretch of the imagination. Condensation in graphite powder can also cause it to clump up and harden in "chunks" stuck to clean unprotected steel surfaces. Brand-new bearings like that in a clean environment could be left open and dry providing the "balancer" was stored in a clean, dry environment and be just fine and clean, new dry roller bearings have less drag than with any lubricant in them. A little spritz of WD-40, which is mainly kerosene and then reinstalling the seals would be the best alternative if the balancer is going to be frequently used in that "dirty" environment.
Great video, in particular that numbering is a good way to keep track of and visualize the imbalance. Thanks
Thank you for the videos. Suburban Tool Balance is much more sensitive because of the big wheel and the very small bearings. To make your balance more sensitive you need to get rid of the seals on the bearings and clean all the grease out plus put very light oil instead of grease. Thank you again for your videos and nice design.
Jon. I have don’t tire service for the motorcycle industry for some time. I have built many balancers like this. Like the other have said. The bigger the wheel the more sensitive it is to balance. Also the thinner the contact surface is between the rod and bearing/wheel. Also ensure that you check the balance of the rod and mandrill also. It can induce errors if it is not balanced itself.
Thanks for the video! I think the bearing wheels on the balancer used by suburbantoolco are bigger for a reason. My guess is that the instrument itself becomes a lot more sensitive for inbalance of the wheel. I think that this is caused by the lever you get from the larger wheels and that it overcomes the friction and "stickyness" of the bearings easier.
Yea. I was thinking the exact same.
Yep, bigger wheels equals less rolling resistance.
Yes the larger the wheel the more sensitive. Also the the bearings that John is using I see have seals. John you need to remove the seals and wash out all of the lube. Use a very light oil, Whale oil is the best but difficult to come by, but sewing machine or instrument oil will work. You have awful lot of friction in those bearing and seals. Very nice unit you have made.
Just to add to what Randy said, one of the reasons the larger wheels are more sensitive, is they act like a lever arm. Meaning it takes force to overcome the stiction in the bearings.
RRitS If not ligt instrument oil how about graphite? It is dry and lubricates.. You are not looking at rapid rpm or heavy load.
The guys I work with hate grinding and I love it. It's so precise.
Remove the shields from the bearings as well as the grease. It'll make this setup way better! I made one of these for balancing motorcycle wheels and its sensitive enough to detect the set screws that hold the arbor together. The heavy spot goes straight to the bottom quickly.
Exactly this. For not load applications, take off the sheild, and fully degrease them. Don't even oil them. Makes a world of difference. I found praying them down with breakfree aerosol gun cleaner works best.
Also spinning it a bit and letting it stop on it's own until it will stop anywhere works better then stopping it at spots. at least for the final tweaking.
Please get rid of the Tormach way of "balancing" a wheel. When you first mount the wheel on the arbor, get those balancing weights off of it. Dress the wheel, preferably on the sides too and then put it in the balancing gadget.
Now, this next step usually applies to very large heavy wheels only, but might happen on a badly unbalanced small wheel too: put one weight on the lightest side (read the top), lock it in place and mark it with a sharpie. This is the one you do not move at all.
Find the light side and put two weights not side by side but something like 90-120 degrees apart around the light side. Check where the wheel rotates and when you adjust these two, always adjust them as a pair. If you move them closer together or farther from each other, move both the same amount.
This way you are not chasing your tail and the method is systematic.
I like the way you think. That sounds very straightforward, thinking of the three weights more like 2 weights: an initial on the light spot and a split pair that adjusts opposite outward as needed.
Indeed.. that is "The way" to do it..
Jaakko Fagerlund this is what I do at work and I can't think of faster way to balance a wheel from scratch!
The old balancing tool at Suburban is far, far better than your jig. All bearings have a certain amount of torque that has to be overcome before the move, those big overlapping disks multiply the torque from imbalance, and make it more sensitive.
I think you've got a bit of "newer is better" bias to un-learn.
That said, I love your videos, keep up the great work.
Great find for me. Thanks
Some grinders can balance the grinding wheel as it is running on the machine. The system I saw had a device in the middle of the wheel that had three chambers that were 180 deg. apart and were connected together with tubing. The brains of the system could detect the imbalance and using heaters in the chambers, drive refrigerant in one chambers to the other two changing the distributed weight and changing the balance.
It seems a bit stiff. I see a version 2 coming from the comments here about the bearings and wheel size, both have a big influence on how sensitive your balance will be. Personally I would also like the support bearings to be center mounted and not cantilevered as that will improve alignments and reduce friction as well. How is the Repeat-O-Meter working?
i'd loose the bearings.. or put them back in the skateboard he salvaged them from..
The best balancers are "knife-edge-balancers, or balancers where the arbor rests on 2 rods.. but those are harder to make..
I've seen devices simillar to this setup, only bigger in Motorcycle shops to balance motorcycle wheels.
I agree with your suggestion for a center support. The rollers on the Anderson are also balanced so they don't interfere with the work.
I just recently purchased a used surface grinder. After I get it running, I am going to buy some mems accelerometers that I can hook up to a raspberry pi to record vibrations and do a fourier spectrum to see what is vibrating and by how much. I will also try to add in a stroboscope to see if I can get an on machine indications of where the peak imbalance is.
Would be interesting to see how ceramic bearings would lower the friction.
Thanks super usefull!!
Does a loose wheel fit on the balancing arbor while balancing have any significant affect on the accuracy of the balancing?
Hi, I've been watching your videos for more than one year, it were amazing. But I think that the round bars balancer is more accurate, because it's less friction and less components, and if you need to use ball bearings, the outer ring must be large enough and curved and narrow, to minimise friction losses. thank you for your valuable videos.
I wonder if another useful way easier way might be to have the base of your jig sitting on 2 needle (or ball) supports one one side of the shaft, and a light spring and dial gauge on the other side, so as you rotate the wheel you just watch the dial gauge - the heavy spot is nearest the dial gauge side when the maximum deflection is shown. Maybe some weights outboard of the supports to offset most of the the static weight of the wheel
They do make wheel pullers too. Worth mentioning
Spindexer on a sine plate would be good for grinding an arbor also.
looks like I need a noga minicool. That looks perfect for a belt grinder
What do I do about wheel wobble?
Two parallel bars leveled create a better stand for checking balance. Bearings create resistance but still sufficient for most applications
Hey john, should you have dressed the wheel after you balanced it? please tell me if i'm wrong but if you dress it before you have balanced the wheel the vibration of the unbalanced wheel would introduce an imperfect circle on the outside of the wheel?
You dress it before and after balancing and preferably on the sides too.
I assume you rung the wheel for cracks before mounting it ?
Hey Buddy you would have been way better off sticking with the cheap Tormach balancers. Having bigger disks on the bearings would have helped no grease on the bearings of course but even then should only be used for heavy grinding wheels.
Better cheap static balancer: get a pair of cheap 1/8" x 6" parallels. Mount them lengthwise horizontally 15 degrees off vertical, making a pair of horizontal knife edges. Put a level on the baseplate to make leveling easy. Now set the arbor in the middle of the knives and see if it rotates. If it does, the bottom (when it stops) is the heavy side. Move the weights and try again until it doesn't move.
Take a look at ua-cam.com/video/3IeqyqQJWQI/v-deo.html
If you don't speak Ukrainian, who does, you can still follow him.
mujhe to bas ki ye weight ki machine kaha per milti h. sir ji.
It looks like the bearings on your balancer are sealed. The seals create a little bit or rotational friction, which translates to decreased sensitivity and repeatability of the tool. Additionally, the OD of the bearings is close to that of the arbor which decreases sensitivity and repeatability. If you increase the OD of the bearings significantly, rotational resistance of the bearings (and seals) will have a much smaller effect and your sensitivity and repeatability will increase.
I would take adjusting the weights a step further and use a torque wrench if possible. Just to have data for the next time your balance it, if ever.
Hi John,
What are your goals in balancing the 8" wheel? Are you going for finish, accuracy, both? When you're 8" wheel is dressed down to 7" do you plan on re-balancing it? Do you plan on leaving the wheel on the hub until it needs replacing or will you use one hub for many wheels and balance every time the wheel is changed?
Steve
Solid Rock Machine Shop Inc. He seems like a one wheel kinda guy, use it until a job requires something different. My observation
Don't yoy have an okamoto grinder? Why using the torturemach?
So I assume this would work on my bench grinder from hell. It has a 5/8 arbor, where do I get these weight adjustable washers? Thx
Just to elaborate a bit on Brian U's comment that Don's balancing rig is a carefully engineered and expensive one, notice how much bigger diameter the rollers are on the Anderson balancing ways than the direct bearings in yours. This provides the balancing shaft much more leverage on the bearings, overcoming bearing friction with a smaller imbalance and thereby making the balancer more sensitive. The comparatively small diameter of your bearings, along with the friction of their rubber seals and perhaps the grease they're packed with make yours less sensitive to a small imbalance. I bet the Anderson spins for minutes with a gentle flick, whereas yours I'll bet would go for just seconds. It doesn't mean yours won't work just fine for what you're doing with it, but a closer look at why the Anderson looks the way it does might be instructive as to how yours could be improved.
drill more holes for the bearings.. farther down and farther apart.. make some press fit wheels for some shielded bearings.. C7 grade or C9 grade if you can get them.. the wheels for the bearing OD need to be half covering.. so one can be mounted disc out and the other disc in.. giving you an overlap..
Good
From other videos I've seen, 10" and smaller you true before balance, bigger wheels like 12"+ you pre balance then true then final balance.
Where i can get the Balance Machine? xD
I usually just crazy glue some old scraps to the side of the wheel while balancing it on one finger and standing on one leg
The balancer in that Suburban tool video looks a lot more heavy duty... Definitely not "rinky-dink." Cast iron/forged, lots of mass in that thing. Plus, it's extendable to balance shafts. (Keith Fenner style) If you said, "It doesn't look very precise," then yes, I'd agree. The Suburban one looks more rugged/sturdy/beefy/etc. But yours looks very sturdy, and more precise. (Square, level, parallel, perpendicular, etc.) Also, I think the reason you were having issues with unexplainable balance points is the bearings you were using. I think those big metal discs on the Suburban variant are a key design feature. Just my thoughts. That's.
Iˋm not really an engineer, but I think your balancing technique could be improved. I would suggest, that you try to balance the wheel both statically and dynamically. With statically I mean the way you currently do it. Turn the wheel to a number an see, if it starts turning, and with dynamically I mean, you give the wheel a spin, and you look, where it stops. If the wheel happens to stop at the same position, you’ve found a heavy point. My recommendation is based on the property’s of friction. The static friction is always higher than the roll friction. So if you give it a spin, the torque of the heavy point is only influenced by the roll friction and not by the higher static friction, which should allow a more precise finging of heavy spots.
AliSot 2000 from what I've seen super accuracy isn't needed for balancing grinding wheels, the balance changes as you use them.
Unless you're NASA, they probably have 20 wheels super balanced and set aside and swap out every 50 passes to have someone rebalance while one guy grinds.
anonymic79 grinding itself shrinks the wheel. That's how grinding works, its always sharp because the surface is continually renewing itself. Not really sure how you got the number of .002 off the radius, I've seen some people dress wheels very heavily and the amount of dust that comes off it can't be equal to .002 off the radius.
anonymic79 get out your 12" micrometer. I'd like to see the measurement, new wheel day 1 and same wheel after 500 passes and a couple dressings.
anonymic79 wheel should be dressed every time you turn the spindle on if you're looking for precise and accurate parts.
anonymic79 Thank you for pointing out my mistake and informing about the correct implication of dynamic balancing!
Yes, Need to eliminate stick on the bearings. Go with oil and Metal no contact shields....... that will help greatly.
Now you need a cover for the balancer to keep the dust off of it. After far too long I got one for mine, I should have had it covered from the beginning. I repair boat propellers so my balancer needs to work right without hanging up. Cool video.
I'd be very leery of those sealed roller bearings supporting the assembly during balancing. They'll never have the internal grease equally lubricated around the inside of the bearing, where the grease is and how much is in different locations will affect how much "rolling resistance" they have in different positions and as they rotate the grease will be redistributed through the bearings. You could end up chasing "balance" issues that are actually in those bearings at least in part.
The fact that one time 5 is "heavy" and without adjusting anything its suddenly "good" indicates there's more going on than just the wheel. You can certainly keep the bearings but I'd remove the seals, flush them thoroughly with solvent to remove all the grease and put in a few drops of very light machine oil in each to eliminate that grease variable. Grease is "sticky" and "elastic" and it has a lot of surface tension and new dry bearings have much less resistance than new greased bearings.
And my first move on a new wheel like that once verified to be good would be to peel those paper labels and any adhesive used to stick them to the stone off the stone itself. I'd very surprised if those labels alone don't cause some imbalance. Regardless of how "precisely" they're made and applied they're certainly not "balanced" or "centered" and they're just a ready-made "gap" between the stone and arbors waiting to go to pieces and fall out and leave the wheel slightly loose in/on the arbors.
I've never balanced a grinding stone in my life but I think I'd also be tempted to check the balance BEFORE installing it and especially before dressing it. If there are minor balancing issues that can be addressed FIRST then clearly the initial installation/dressing process is going to be smoother and won't be negatively affected by "built-in" balance issues that could cause vibration, oscillation, etc. A pre-installation/dressing check of "static balance" as delivered from the manufacturer would be a very good indication of just how good the manufacturer and product are right out of the gate and if most or all wheels from a manufacturer are "good" out of the box and suddenly one isn't that could be an indication of a problem that the "tap test" may not reveal.
Conversely, if every wheel from a manufacturer is an unbalanced mess time and again and significant time that could be saved for PROFITABLE and USEFUL shop tasks that is currently and repeatedly spent polishing or trying to polish a certain manufacturer's turds and you've been buying them based on price or some other "secondary" factor (there's no such thing as a "good deal" on a bad or even mediocre product when you need excellent quality and performance) you probably have nothing to lose giving some other manufacturer a try.
Now that I've checked that manufacturer and supplier's products and prices and see that these little disposable chunks of rock go from anywhere from $25 to $275 bucks and they're specifically made for "precision grinding" I gotta say I'm a little surprised they need to be checked and balanced and trued at all before being installed. It seems like that's something the manufacturer could much more easily and "economically" do during the manufacturing/testing processes and even if it took some $15 per hour employee half an hour per wheel to get them right or at least BALANCED if not balanced and trued "in-house". Then there would ALSO be little or no chance of a "dud" making it all the way to the customer's hands.
Even if they were just squared and rounded up and "rough trued" and were then balanced and were ready to be installed, trued and used 9 times out of 10 they could charge an extra $20 per unit for them and that would still be a "bargain" for the customer buying them who is spending 15-30 minutes of billable shop time just checking for imbalance issues even though I'm certain from time to time they MUST be "perfect" right out of the box.
I doubt there are many machinists/shops who aren't charging at least $40 per hour, that extra $20 would be another $20 of business expense, that 15-30 minutes would be revenue instead of completely "written off" time where even if it was billed to a customer still nothing really "productive" was being accomplished and over the course of year or decade you could be talking about hours or days or weeks of time spent inspecting, checking and balancing "precision" grinding wheels you're already paying a premium for.
"And my first move on a new wheel like that once verified to be good would be to peel those paper labels and any adhesive used --- I've never balanced a grinding stone in my life but --"
You are getting yourself or someone else killed with your utter ignorance and Dunning-Kruger.
I'm a grinder that balance is awsome
When you ask for people who do this on a daily basis to comment and get the usual I know nothing about this but you're doing it wrong. Lol
This is the exact same process I use to balance go kart tires.
I don't consider myself an expert, but your process I would consider roughing in the balance, if you wanted it to be ultra precise use a fixed pointer and tick marks around the perimeter then give it a spin and walk away, if the balance is near perfect the energy will run out in a ramdom location each time. 😎
John Smith great idea, but seems a little more time consuming, even though you can spin and walk away, seems a little tedious to back and forth it through the shop.
John's new Fidget Spinner....
Why not use an arduino and accelerometer and rpm sensor and spin it at the speed it will run. Then you can measure the exact unbalance and position and balance very precisely
Apart from what others have said about the bearings and knife edge discs on them I'd like to put in my two cents. I have never ever liked those wheel hubs with three weights - for me it has always been easier to balance the grinding wheels with four weights in them.
and why is that?.. for me it feels like more weights, means more work.. come and think of it.. i think i can even balance a wheel with just 2 weights.. if you put the wheel on the balancer without weights, the heavy part of the wheel will sink to the bottom.. let the wheel come to a stop, and add 2 weights "just above" the centerline.. they have to be ever so slightly above the centerline though.. making the weights from Aluminium would make work easier..
The "third weight" which i put on first, is there, just to "yank" the center of mass to that side, making the placement of the other 2 weights slightly less critical..
Sealed bearings? They will remove a lot of your free movement due to stiction. U want almost dry oiled bearings. No grease
You should use dry non shielded or sealed bearings to reduce extra friction
I reckon too much sticktion to overcome with small dia sealed greasy bearings. spin the wheel and allow it to rest, once it stops at a random spot every time it's balanced. but first, pop the bearing seals off, throw them away, and wash the grease out. cover it when not in use to keep the shit out )
Why not watch the suburban tool video then. Also forgot to mention to use plastic and not any heavy hard tools for the ring test to prevent cracking the dang wheel to see if it’s cracked
A dab of super glue for final balance,easier than moving weights. Enthusiasm showing.
Larger overlapping hardened wheels would be better, then the arbor will have more torque to apply to the bearings and thus less "stickyness" from the bearings, also nowadays there is the option of dry hybrid-ceramic bearings which has stupid low friction. There is a reason for the big "ugly" wheels on the pro-stuff, also on turbine wheel balancers (even tho they have piezo-electric microphones that pick up the displacement of the cradle the bearings are attached to, and also have a radial position tracking)
Don’t think I’ve ever had a need to balance a grinding wheel before.
I suppose I could see the use for ultra precision grinding maybe. Dunno. I’ve never worried about it
chris0tube
Just never had to. Been able to just put a wheel in, dress it then grind and never had a surface finish issue.
So why spend all that time balancing the wheel?
chris0tube injection mold slide actions , shut offs and cavity inserts where the injected material flashes at .0003”. So ya. Have had to do precision parts. Never balanced the wheel. No one here has and no ones had an issue.
I’m sure it might be needed for some things, but holding +.0001 -.0000 without balancing the wheel with no issues.
chris0tube
I’m not opposed to it. Just haven’t had a need to. A performance tuned engine is superior to a stock engine, but is it with the time and effort if all you’re doing is commuting from A to B?
We’ve never had an issue hitting specs. The part meets spec, everything fits and all is well without balancing the wheel.
We change wheels constantly, balancing every time we put a new wheel on would be a time killer for us and time is something we have little of.
chris0tube
Not opposed to it at all. I’m sure a fully balanced wheel performs better.
But I don’t think most of the time it’s required. Like I said I haven’t encountered a situation that requires a fully balanced wheel.
chris0tube
My machine has a G code provision to turn off and on high precision milling. I don’t always use it. I use it if it’s needed. Just because a provision is there doesn’t mean it must be used. It’s there if the application necessitates it.
Unbalanced car tires will give you a bumpy ride and shorten the life span. But if you only have to go 2 miles up the road do you balance them first? Do you check the balance of your tires before you go out every time? Do you check your tire pressure before every time you take it out? My guess is probably not. My guess is you only check it if something doesn’t feel right.
If the application demands it I use it. I haven’t encountered a grinding application that requires me to balance the wheel yet.
What about placing the stone in an arbor with a cone/point, making the assembly into a "spinning" top arrangement. Don't spin the assembly, but, with the grinding wheel in a horizontal position may reveal imbalances.
Or better yet, instead of tossing it, see if you can take it back for a refund! :) You did keep the receipt, right?
You should sell these. I would buy one. Like, right now.
show
No mystery why I don’t have many friends in this industry
john, you mae a beginners mistake: you used sealed and greased bearings. those give WAY too much resistance making the entire rig very insensitive. im surprised it even did move. remove the bearings and remove the seal AND grease from the bearings or get new ones without them. the bearings need to be as loose and free moving as possible in order to make the jig as sensitive as possible. cover with a rag after use to prevent dust from gettinng into the open bearings.
The plus to your stand being level is if you spin the arbor it would be less likely to walk back and forth. So I’d say you did good there.
Just jam a new grinding wheel in and let rip. It will wear itself in and balance itself over time...
I balance small and big rotors at work. My professional opinion is that, for greater precision consider a small purpose made dynamic balancing machine or add a motor and balance the wheel with SKF Microlog or Pruftechnik Vibxpert. The quality of static and dynamic balancing is not comparable. Keep up the great work!
The thing about Don Bailey's balancing stand is that the wheels are huge so a far lower imbalance causes the same torque to overcome the static friction of the bearings.
The commercial balalcers use larger wheels for a reason. It reduces the residual "stickiness" of bearing by lengthening the arm of leverage. For balancing 7" wheels sensitivity is always the key. I have tried both, and settled down to the rod type. Rolling friction is so low that it takes MINUTES for the wheel to settle when approaching the final balance point. Disk type works fine for the 12" wheels our big DoAll uses.
Those "rinky-dink" balancers are designed that way for a very good reason: The wheels are large in diameter and very small in contact area to keep friction from influencing the arbor when the wheel exerts a torque to obtain equilibrium (heavy side down).
Your design, while impressive, uses small diameter bearings with a large surface contacting the arbor.
You shouldn't have to move the wheel. Once it's placed on the stand it will turn on its own.
You can see that the bearings are not very free spinning. Definitely need to remove the bearing shields and clean the grease out with solvent. Then apply a tiny amount of silicone or graphite spray.
The lowest friction bearing would be a pair of knife edges. Of course, then you need to insure they are perfectly straight and level.
At minimum you should pop the seals out of those bearings, flush out the grease, and lubricate them with the lightest oil, Kroil or even kerosene would work, as there is practically no load on them. Flush the bearings every time you use it. Just don't spin them up with air ;)
Auto balancing:
ua-cam.com/video/Xyr5UZKryiw/v-deo.html
Another video of someone balancing a 1/2 inch wide wheel. 32 years precision grinding and i have never balanced a 1/2 inch wide wheel. None of the tool makers or owners have either. Don Bailie was balancing a 1 inch wide wheel that will stay on a wet grinder untill the wheel is worn out most likely. Just get a sopko hub without balancing weights for 1/2 inch wheel. Congrats on putting hub nut on correctly, unlike the video from Tormach.
Waste of time for a 8” wheel. Ring test mount it and diamond dress it. The wheel isn’t trued yet on the spindle so this will all change once’s dressed. These wheels tend to have a good amount of run out.
This isn’t a 14”+ water grinder wheel. By the time you do all this I have squared a few blocks already. I honestly would be fired if I did this.
You are not holding .00005” here.
So, am I the only that started to hear....we have a click out of 5....6 is binding....back to 1, click out of 2.....
0:29, You could do well by steeling some of the design elements from that so called rinky dink balancer. Especially the larger diameter narrow wheels that overlap each other.
2:13, As long as you're being methodical, consider doing the warm up of your grinder using a wheel that's already balanced. Seems like the machine would benefit from the smoother operation.
Just a note. Looks like the bearings don't spin free. Take the seals off the bearings and remove the grease. Dish soap works best for me. Then dry really well. Adding a lubricant will increase friction but it depends if rust is an issue.
Also, full ceramic bearings are awesome, but i don't know how far you want to take your balancing....
BTW: Thanks for all the videos!!!
The only advice I have is straight from AvE:
You're doing it wrong, and what you need to do is do it right.
Actually from Cars Simplified 😇
Third
Stop wasting time unless you are doing micro finishing it’s dumb
Second!
First
And there you go, a wheel properly balanced!
Your video doesn't deserve that title, which is something you already know, mostly because you know you don't have a clue what you're talking about.
I quit watching any of your videos long ago just because of things like this.
Either you do think pretending to be an expert on a subject makes one out of you, or this is just clickbait.
If you quit watching his videos long ago How did you see this one?? I’ve heard him say he’s not an expert many times, that he’s learning with us! Sounds Iike to me you’re just a hater, and wishes you could make videos of your own that get hundreds of thousands of views. But you’re just too stupid and ugly to do this. So you hate on other ppl videos to make urself feel better.
Does a loose wheel fit on the balancing arbor while balancing have any significant affect on the accuracy of the balancing?
When you're doing, this do not stop the wheel from moving. The bearings have "static" friction, or "stiction" . Change your bearing to non sealed. The reason some balancers have big flange wheels is to provide leverage against "stiction" and they have a smaller contact point.