For those of you that don't know, Mr. Crispin, won Keith Fenner's, "What's in Your Toolbox" back in 2016 or 17. Of all the winners over the years, Mr. Crispin is the ONLY winner to have made something of himself, or at least has taken the time to show what a young budding machinist can do. He is without a doubt a brilliant and committed young man! Congrats, Mr. Crispin!
My respect for mr Crispin is absolute , he comes across as a genuine gentleman hugely clever and yet very straight talking down to earth a spade is a spade type of guy
Yep , Im a one of those 900 people.. :) UA-cam didnt even bother to recommend me your channel all these years, so thanks, Quinn, for a great recommendation! Mr. Crispin thank you for you time and effort you put in your videos - very nice and quality stuff!! Cheers! Phil.
Yep, me also. I've watched 5,000 plus vids on my other channel and have never been recommended Mr. Crispin. Luckily I've run across this channel with my knew TooManyTrades channel. Now I have to get over my on camera anxieties and make my own videos.
@@toomanytrades Me too. Thanks mate. I'm a retired old fart (geophysicist) but learning machining at home since I've got bugger all else to do. I've bought all new machinery and now, from you, I'm learning how to use it. I've always loved machining, my dad was a tool maker and I didn't get much chance to learn anything 'cause of uni etc. I'm basically starting from scratch and you are my teacher. Cheers and all the best.
Back in the early 80's I worked with an old machinist who was a bit grumpy but taught me a lot. He had the same shirt as you. Love the channel - thanks.
The sound that the diamond lap made on the tool, I half expected some old time gramophone music to start playing. Thanks for the videos, I always enjoy learning something from them.
I inherited a machine shop from my dad. He taught me some mill and lathe basics but never taught me how to grind or sharpen lathe tool bits. Some of the products I make use his custom shaped cutting tools that are now dull & I’ve been been afraid I may ruin them while trying to sharpen them. Your videos are giving me the confidence to try. Thank you.
Mr. Crispin, you are an excellent instructor and you do a great job with videography and story telling. Thank you for all the work that goes into making these videos.
Thanks for sharing. My two cent are i watched a drill sharpening video and tried it out on some old broken drill bits. I tried drilling some hole and changed my angles of sharpening. Three days later wail working my boss broke a drill bit. We were 300 miles off shore and not a hardware store in sight. I took the chipped drill bit and sharpened it and finished the job. My boss had left to borrow a new one and by the time he got back i had finish, cleaned up, and put all the tools away. We took lunch.
The first rule of razor blade gauges is you don’t talk about razor blade gauges!!! The second rule of razor blade gauges is don’t let anyone see you using razor blade gauges!!! Boss: Wait!, that looks like? Is that a razor blade gauge! Me: nope!! It a box gutter gauge! It has a Handel.
As a clock tinkerer I learn from this post I need to get a Ting Tang clock for the workshop. I only have a Peatol/Taig lathe but much of your teaching has helped me Learn so much. Your diagrams are so clear, my light has come on, I understand!!!!! Thank you.
I have to say that it is so nice to see a master keep his mind open and learn from others. Your content is always educational and I must say that your video about getting a compound angle hole drilled through was excellent. Can't believe I just watched a wheel go round and round for 26 min! I have always used the freehand method since my cheap grinder rest is not sturdy enough to survive facing off. I have been watching your channel for a while though I just subscribed. It is so nice to see you credit Quinn too; she has her own quirky ways but it is very much fun to watch her projects.
I learned about tool grinding an honing from my Father and you are like in many ways like him, all be it younger. Same info as well as a Working Mans Hands to the Tee. Under the fingernails with evidence of a person that Really does Work! Great info for those learning. John Australia.
Your expertise is highly regarded Mr. Crispin I'm just an electrician that plays about with antique machine tools... What your doing is much more serious...🇬🇧👍
I successfully ground my first HSS tool thanks to this video. Works beautifully and much better than anything I attempted before. Thanks for the time and great detail you put in to making this video!
Hi Mr. Crispin - I'm new to your channel, so greetings from Australia (Quinn sent me). Just wanted to credit you, being a young lad still & having such a great handle on your craft. With your grinder tool rest, if you put countersunk set screws at the back edge, you'll be able to adjust the angle easier & give it more stability. Also, any striations in your tool cutting edge will transfer into your workpiece, which can affect surface finishes and/ or stress risers or critical parts. Stay safe and well :)
Hi Crispin, Glad to see the grinder turned up in one piece and is working well after such a drawn out delay in the delivery from Australia. Looking forward to your detailed video on in, perhaps even I can learn something from your upcoming video. Stay safe in your new UK Virus Lockdown. Regards from Adelaide.
Just like to say thank you for this video, it's made a world of difference to my lathe tools. I have a light weight drill/mill, now I can cut deeper than I thought possible with sharp tools, I love the swish sound on the fly cutter!
Watching these videos reminds me of my C&G training days. Excellent content and presentation. Love the quip not wearing your hat backwards for cool. Brilliant. Thank you MrCrispin.
New subscriber here, having been sent by Quinn. I appreciate your approach to these kinds of topics. Already watching channels like Stefan's, yours is a great addition.
Thanks. I might have to start watching Stephen again, I like that little honing machine. You should give the top some amount of polish. It greatly helps chip removal, which has a huge affect on finish quality.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises If you're ready to take it to the next level, e-mail me this week (before Friday 8th Jan 2021 - otherwise Joe Pie's getting this amazing info !)
A very clear and concise video, well paced, with a good blend of 'blackboard explanation' followed by an easy to follow practical demonstration. Many thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. Also great timing for me - I'm starting to experiment with HSS tooling after relying solely on carbide tipped tools for the first few years of my home shop machining 'career'. Regards Paul in NZ
Another helpful video- I am also one of the 900 and it looks like I’ve got a lot of catching up to do on your channel- fantastic content- looking forward to catching up on your video library
Good talk you gave there, and glad you learned about angled rests a great time saver. Two things to add, when sparks come over the top edge, you have ground up to the top edge. Second, to check angle rather than use a razor blade a bit of thick card works and is much less likely to cause a sticking plaster incident.
How I like your Deckel FP1 Mill. It is a true relic and is extremely accurate. Congratulations.. Como me gusta su fresadora Dekel FP1. es una verdadera reliquia y es extremadamente precisa. Felicitaciones.
Great video. I like your teaching style. In the comments below you mentioned that you machine gas turbine blades at Rolls-Royce. I used to be a production engineer at a gas turbine overhaul shop. I worked mostly on the Allison 501K engine. During my time there Rolls bought out Allison so I guess I worked on Rolls-Royce turbine blades as well. 'Worked on' may be a bit of a stretch, but I did look at thousands of them through a 10 power glass. Ken
Hi Mr. Crispin. Sadly, i enjoyed this video very much. I agree with you about the ability to grind freehand as it were. Years ago I used to grind freehand cutters for woodworking spindle moulders that used spindle blocks that are now deemed dangerous and no longer available. They were of course extremely dangerous if miss-used. Anyway, honing ones skills is always a good thing!! Thanks for your efforts and excellent content.
Operating spindle molders is not for the faint hearted and most definitely to be kept well apart from workers with sloppy practice. The dangers with them are almost always created by an operator who isn't fully switched on.
@@howardosborne8647 Absolutely. 100% concentration at all times. Unfortunately, a chap I worked with 25 years ago can testify as to the outcome of less than 100% attention. Lets just say he can only count up to 81/2 now!!!
Thanks Mr. Crispin. I’m new here, having seen a recommendation from Quinn, and I find I very much enjoy your teaching style. I look forward to viewing more of the channel. Cheers!
Interesting Deckel joystick power feed control. I've got to try 45° milling on my machine by using 2 power feeds simultaneously. The machine itself is capable of power feeding all 3 axes simultaneously whether at cutting speed or at fast traverse. It will also allow me to put the feeds into reverse - so a reverse cutting feed followed by a fast traverse back to the start. I just need to get a source of 3 phase again !
The Deckel can move two axis at once at 45 degrees as you describe. There is no power feed on the z axis on this machine (z being in line with spindle). Thanks for your email I have received it and will read it in detail before getting back to you. Cheers
for a hobby shop (and novices by the way) this method is the best. First off you learn about the angles and it works out a lot cheaper than breaking in on inserts. I have seen many guys who were trained on the exclusive use of inserts, and they actually have no clue about geometry and angling. This tells me they must be running through inserts like mad....
@@daveticehurst4191 Yes and the radius but my analogy is in reference to honing one face and leaving one like a ploughed field off the grinding stone. Never as sharp nor as long lasting.
@@localele1 Right ho I am with your thinking now. Yes that’s quite true you could just be cutting with the equivalent of a needlepoint if the top is left in honed. Thanks for pointing that out. Regards from Australia.
Excellent video and very well explained. Where some struggle is with use of underpowered 6inch bench grinders, often resulting in clogged and out-of-balance wheels. A stronger 8inch grinder is far more pleasurable to use. Some basic pointers on maintaining/dressing grinding wheels would be a useful addition, and perhaps mention of HSS containing cobalt which is much harder to grind.
Hello Mr. Crispin, I would suggest option one would be the one I would prefer to master. Once mastered I would feel confident to be able to grind a lathe tool on any grinder. Thank you for making the video. Take care Paul,,
Hi Crispin. I hope you are well. I have just been trying to find out what the little Nub? centre stub? pip? is properly called, that is left after the parting off operation. You were the first person I thought of who would most likely know the answer.
Honing the top rake surface reduces built up edge. I always try to hone the top surface with strokes parallel to the chip formation/flow, and the primary clearance and radius with horizontal strokes (following the perimeter of the cutting edge). This makes for the best surface quality and free cutting ability. PS: In scientific terms the chip to tool friction coefficient is used in the primary cutting force calculation as well as the heat generation calculation and honing the top surface reduces that friction coefficient.
I think stoning the top surface is useful because there will always be a slight burr on the unstoned surface which is fragile and could chip the edge if it breaks off. The top should be stoned FIRST though and the sides and front last. The stoning should be done from the edge down and away ONLY and not side to side as you did. This pulls any burr down and away from the edge. The side to side stoning could be used in initial shaping but should be followed with a down and away only stoning. Side to side can also be used as a last stoning if it is carefully done and with a very fine stone to give the ultimate shaving sharpness. - ALL of that is worth the bother only when you need to reliably shave off tenths at a time. For roughing and ordinary finishing work it is not really needed and such an edge is fragile in itself just because of its keen ness.
This is one of the best video's I've seen on sharpening, Great job... I do have one question, what are you using to stone the HSS bit? I just can't seem to fine the right kind and grit of stone which will do a good job.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Ok Ok you got me. Actually I did look in Tim's locker, all I found was an empty box, well not quite empty, there was a small note that read "gone hunting". Ok down to business, I'm assuming your Norton India stone is fine grit? Thank you for your quick response....
Hi, what is the name of the textbook? Right now I'm very new to this and my teacher refuses to teach any theory and just start of right away in the workshop. Which is very difficult for me
Very informative. Is the cutting point on the top face "untouched" as you grind the rake on it? If your'e an amateur like me and make a mistake, can you just shim the height of the tool to get it to cut on centre?
Old school men come with skills. Kids now a days come with a box of insert holders and a box of insert catalogs(or rather they expect YOU to buy them insert holders and inserts).
There are 2 reasons for honing both sides of an edge. First one has already been mentioned: deburring. Second one is pure geometry: if you only flatten one side of an edge, you'll never get a straight sharp line. It will remain like a...steak knife. As rough as the roughest side. This is actually the only topic where it's the wood workers who go full maniacal precision! What you call "honing' on that scratchy sounding diamond disc, is still called rough grinding by woodworkers. Woodworkers...and Chris from Clickspring, that is.
I may have missed the obvious, but surely honing, or superfinishing, to give it its correct title, is all about creating a smooth surface to reduce sliding friction between adjacent surfaces . . . . That said, we have ground the front and side faces in clearance, so that they have no contact with the work, and thus they have no real need to be honed - but the top face, which bears the passage of the chip, needs to be as smooth as possible to reduce the sliding friction of the chip and consequent overheating and pressure welding of chip material to the tool surface, leading to built-up edge, poor finish and consequent tool failure. A fine finish on the tool surface will increase tool life by a factor of two or three times, so the time for this additional attention is well repaid ! Joe Powell, my old production engineering lecturer at Dudley Technical College often said that a production engineer’s job in life was to make as much swarf, as fast as possible, because the customer only buys what’s left ! Those words have stuck with me these past 50 years ! Kind regards from Brummie land ! Steve A.
Thanks for your comment. Yes the top surface is certainly critical but lets imagine you are using a tool that has a small corner radius. The smoothness of that radius has an effect on the surface finish because the shape of the tool is generating the results on the work piece. So if you can smooth the inconsistencies left from grinding by honing the I think it's an improvement. Also I often think that honing the front and side faces is important when sharpening a tool to remove and burrs left from honing the top face. Could be wrong! Cheers
@@MrCrispinEnterprises I’d absolutely agree, but since, during the turning process, the tool generally follows a helical path, nose radius and carriage feed/rev play an important part in the quality of the surface finish that is generated, and the nose radius ought to exceed the feed/rev to smooth out the ridges and valleys traced out by the tool . . . . On the subject of those pesky helices, for a given feed/rev, the helix angle increases inversely to diameter, so it follows that on very small diameters encountered in model engineering it may be necessary to increase the front clearance to avoid rubbing on the work . . . . Kind regards, Steve A
If i may, I would like to ask a question. I bought a quickchange toolpost for my ml7, the toolpost is a little high, so i want to mill of approx 2 mill of my topslide, do you think that this would greatly compromise the rigidity of my topslide. Hope you have time for a Q&A :)
I'll have a look next time I'm in my workshop. One thing to note is that some suppliers of thoes tool holders make the bottom section of the holder thicker than others. If they are quite thick then you obviously loose tool height.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises much appreciated. I chose a toolholder that would hold the tools i alreday had, and it does seem to be a little thick at the bottom of the holders.
For those of you that don't know, Mr. Crispin, won Keith Fenner's, "What's in Your Toolbox" back in 2016 or 17. Of all the winners over the years, Mr. Crispin is the ONLY winner to have made something of himself, or at least has taken the time to show what a young budding machinist can do. He is without a doubt a brilliant and committed young man! Congrats, Mr. Crispin!
Thanks
You are very correct Mr crispin has great knowledge and talent.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises hi am new here
A young guy who can use a lathe... the future is bright!
My respect for mr Crispin is absolute , he comes across as a genuine gentleman hugely clever and yet very straight talking down to earth a spade is a spade type of guy
I'll take that as a compliment!
Yep , Im a one of those 900 people.. :) UA-cam didnt even bother to recommend me your channel all these years, so thanks, Quinn, for a great recommendation!
Mr. Crispin thank you for you time and effort you put in your videos - very nice and quality stuff!!
Cheers! Phil.
Yep, me also. I've watched 5,000 plus vids on my other channel and have never been recommended Mr. Crispin. Luckily I've run across this channel with my knew TooManyTrades channel. Now I have to get over my on camera anxieties and make my own videos.
@@toomanytrades Me too. Thanks mate. I'm a retired old fart (geophysicist) but learning machining at home since I've got bugger all else to do. I've bought all new machinery and now, from you, I'm learning how to use it. I've always loved machining, my dad was a tool maker and I didn't get much chance to learn anything 'cause of uni etc. I'm basically starting from scratch and you are my teacher. Cheers and all the best.
@@TheDavephillips awesome sir
fully agree - this bloke is one of the best home machinist channels I've come across - clear concise and un affected. Deserves more exposure
Back in the early 80's I worked with an old machinist who was a bit grumpy but taught me a lot. He had the same shirt as you. Love the channel - thanks.
Always kiss the grumpy guys ass.
Retired or should I say restarted machinist here in the states and you are one great teacher don’t stop what you’re doing .
Good information on an important topic. Talking with your hands only adds to the entertainment value. Thanks for sharing this video!
What a great video! Loved how you went over this topic. I to found your channel as a result of watching Quinn. Thank you once again!
I'm a new lathe owner and just getting ready to try my hand at this. Thanks for the demonstration. Very helpful!!
The sound that the diamond lap made on the tool, I half expected some old time gramophone music to start playing. Thanks for the videos, I always enjoy learning something from them.
I inherited a machine shop from my dad. He taught me some mill and lathe basics but never taught me how to grind or sharpen lathe tool bits. Some of the products I make use his custom shaped cutting tools that are now dull & I’ve been been afraid I may ruin them while trying to sharpen them. Your videos are giving me the confidence to try. Thank you.
Give it a go!
Mr. Crispin, you are an excellent instructor and you do a great job with videography and story telling. Thank you for all the work that goes into making these videos.
Thanks for sharing. My two cent are i watched a drill sharpening video and tried it out on some old broken drill bits. I tried drilling some hole and changed my angles of sharpening. Three days later wail working my boss broke a drill bit. We were 300 miles off shore and not a hardware store in sight. I took the chipped drill bit and sharpened it and finished the job. My boss had left to borrow a new one and by the time he got back i had finish, cleaned up, and put all the tools away. We took lunch.
The first rule of razor blade gauges is you don’t talk about razor blade gauges!!! The second rule of razor blade gauges is don’t let anyone see you using razor blade gauges!!! Boss: Wait!, that looks like? Is that a razor blade gauge! Me: nope!! It a box gutter gauge! It has a Handel.
As a clock tinkerer I learn from this post I need to get a Ting Tang clock for the workshop. I only have a Peatol/Taig lathe but much of your teaching has helped me Learn so much. Your diagrams are so clear, my light has come on, I understand!!!!! Thank you.
Your video library is a wealthy treasure trove of excellent instruction for beginner machinists-thank you!
I have to say that it is so nice to see a master keep his mind open and learn from others. Your content is always educational and I must say that your video about getting a compound angle hole drilled through was excellent.
Can't believe I just watched a wheel go round and round for 26 min! I have always used the freehand method since my cheap grinder rest is not sturdy enough to survive facing off.
I have been watching your channel for a while though I just subscribed. It is so nice to see you credit Quinn too; she has her own quirky ways but it is very much fun to watch her projects.
I’ve lost count how many tools I’ve had to grind over the years but you’ve done a great job of demonstrating it, well done.
I learned about tool grinding an honing from my Father and you are like in many ways like him, all be it younger. Same info as well as a Working Mans Hands to the Tee. Under the fingernails with evidence of a person that Really does Work! Great info for those learning. John Australia.
Your expertise is highly regarded Mr. Crispin
I'm just an electrician that plays about with antique machine tools...
What your doing is much more serious...🇬🇧👍
This is by far the best tool grinding video I've ever seen. Thank you. And what a superb grinder!
Thanks
I successfully ground my first HSS tool thanks to this video. Works beautifully and much better than anything I attempted before. Thanks for the time and great detail you put in to making this video!
Good to hear!
Hi Mr. Crispin - I'm new to your channel, so greetings from Australia (Quinn sent me). Just wanted to credit you, being a young lad still & having such a great handle on your craft.
With your grinder tool rest, if you put countersunk set screws at the back edge, you'll be able to adjust the angle easier & give it more stability. Also, any striations in your tool cutting edge will transfer into your workpiece, which can affect surface finishes and/ or stress risers or critical parts. Stay safe and well :)
Thanks and good thinking
Very pleased to see the subscriber numbers climbing. I've always felt a lot of potentials hadn't received the call. Welcome to the club.
Thank you! Being a beginner, the grinding part is just what I need to get started.
me too
Hi Crispin, Glad to see the grinder turned up in one piece and is working well after such a drawn out delay in the delivery from Australia. Looking forward to your detailed video on in, perhaps even I can learn something from your upcoming video. Stay safe in your new UK Virus Lockdown. Regards from Adelaide.
As usual, clear and intelligent exposition, and entertaining. Please show us more of Grandads clock, sounds like there must be a story there.
I just randomly come on board. Another great explanation and videos. Very insightful. Thanks.
wish this video was around when i had an apprentice! would have saved a lot of time.
Just like to say thank you for this video, it's made a world of difference to my lathe tools. I have a light weight drill/mill, now I can cut deeper than I thought possible with sharp tools, I love the swish sound on the fly cutter!
Watching these videos reminds me of my C&G training days. Excellent content and presentation. Love the quip not wearing your hat backwards for cool. Brilliant. Thank you MrCrispin.
You make engineering interesting, thank you for taking the time to upload this !
New subscriber here, having been sent by Quinn. I appreciate your approach to these kinds of topics. Already watching channels like Stefan's, yours is a great addition.
Thanks.
I might have to start watching Stephen again, I like that little honing machine.
You should give the top some amount of polish. It greatly helps chip removal, which has a huge affect on finish quality.
It’s crazy how good of a teacher you are. Thank you for another very informative and easy to understand video. It’s really appreciate it.
Thanks and no problem.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises If you're ready to take it to the next level, e-mail me this week (before Friday 8th Jan 2021 - otherwise Joe Pie's getting this amazing info !)
What's the best email address to contact you by?
@@MrCrispinEnterprises The one on my 'about' page: ua-cam.com/users/millomwebabout
@@MrCrispinEnterprises I've just finished proofreading the info - just need somewhere to send it now !
Superbly clear and easy to follow! Many thanks from a novice.
A very clear and concise video, well paced, with a good blend of 'blackboard explanation' followed by an easy to follow practical demonstration. Many thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience.
Also great timing for me - I'm starting to experiment with HSS tooling after relying solely on carbide tipped tools for the first few years of my home shop machining 'career'.
Regards Paul in NZ
Thanks
Another one of the 900 here, I love the clear explanation MrCrispin does in his video's, learning a lot, thanks!
Another helpful video- I am also one of the 900 and it looks like I’ve got a lot of catching up to do on your channel- fantastic content- looking forward to catching up on your video library
Excellent presentation, you are a natural instructor. I am happy to finally find your channel.
Good talk you gave there, and glad you learned about angled rests a great time saver.
Two things to add, when sparks come over the top edge, you have ground up to the top edge. Second, to check angle rather than use a razor blade a bit of thick card works and is much less likely to cause a sticking plaster incident.
Fantastic demonstration and one I will refer back to many times I'm sure. Always good to see Mr Crispin! Dean in Oxfordshire.
Another fantastic video. I'm glad your subscriber count has increased. You deserve many more. You are Britain's Finest.
Thank you very much
How I like your Deckel FP1 Mill. It is a true relic and is extremely accurate. Congratulations..
Como me gusta su fresadora Dekel FP1. es una verdadera reliquia y es extremadamente precisa. Felicitaciones.
i really enjoy your videos. they are in-depth and easy to understand, and still entertaining. thanks.
Great video. I like your teaching style. In the comments below you mentioned that you machine gas turbine blades at Rolls-Royce. I used to be a production engineer at a gas turbine overhaul shop. I worked mostly on the Allison 501K engine. During my time there Rolls bought out Allison so I guess I worked on Rolls-Royce turbine blades as well. 'Worked on' may be a bit of a stretch, but I did look at thousands of them through a 10 power glass. Ken
Always learn and pick up great tips watching your videos.
Hi Mr. Crispin. Sadly, i enjoyed this video very much. I agree with you about the ability to grind freehand as it were. Years ago I used to grind freehand cutters for woodworking spindle moulders that used spindle blocks that are now deemed dangerous and no longer available. They were of course extremely dangerous if miss-used. Anyway, honing ones skills is always a good thing!! Thanks for your efforts and excellent content.
Operating spindle molders is not for the faint hearted and most definitely to be kept well apart from workers with sloppy practice. The dangers with them are almost always created by an operator who isn't fully switched on.
@@howardosborne8647 Absolutely. 100% concentration at all times. Unfortunately, a chap I worked with 25 years ago can testify as to the outcome of less than 100% attention. Lets just say he can only count up to 81/2 now!!!
Thanks Mr. Crispin. I’m new here, having seen a recommendation from Quinn, and I find I very much enjoy your teaching style. I look forward to viewing more of the channel. Cheers!
I bloody love it, keep up the good work mr Crispin.
Interesting Deckel joystick power feed control.
I've got to try 45° milling on my machine by using 2 power feeds simultaneously. The machine itself is capable of power feeding all 3 axes simultaneously whether at cutting speed or at fast traverse. It will also allow me to put the feeds into reverse - so a reverse cutting feed followed by a fast traverse back to the start.
I just need to get a source of 3 phase again !
The Deckel can move two axis at once at 45 degrees as you describe. There is no power feed on the z axis on this machine (z being in line with spindle). Thanks for your email I have received it and will read it in detail before getting back to you. Cheers
Thank you, sir. I have thoroughly enjoyed each of your videos!
for a hobby shop (and novices by the way) this method is the best. First off you learn about the angles and it works out a lot cheaper than breaking in on inserts. I have seen many guys who were trained on the exclusive use of inserts, and they actually have no clue about geometry and angling. This tells me they must be running through inserts like mad....
For my 2 cents worth a sharp edge is the intersection of 2 finely honed or polished surfaces.Well presented as usual.
Actually it is 3 surfaces, Front, Side and Top.
@@daveticehurst4191 Yes and the radius but my analogy is in reference to honing one face and leaving one like a ploughed field off the grinding stone.
Never as sharp nor as long lasting.
@@localele1 Right ho I am with your thinking now. Yes that’s quite true you could just be cutting with the equivalent of a needlepoint if the top is left in honed. Thanks for pointing that out. Regards from Australia.
@@daveticehurst4191 I live in Australia too Dave.
Excellent content as always , thank you .
Robert,
Partsmade
🇬🇧
You were great at explaining the details.
Could you please make a video on grinding various tools for auto lathes with left hand cutting
Nicely done and well explained as usual. That Deckel is a very nice bit of kit indeed. Cheers, Jon
Excellent video and very well explained. Where some struggle is with use of underpowered 6inch bench grinders, often resulting in clogged and out-of-balance wheels. A stronger 8inch grinder is far more pleasurable to use. Some basic pointers on maintaining/dressing grinding wheels would be a useful addition, and perhaps mention of HSS containing cobalt which is much harder to grind.
Fabulous stuff, takes me right back to ETW&P circa 1976, before (I imagine) Mr Crispin was even a twinkle in someone's eye!
Really appreciate your videos. You have an excellent teaching style! Thanks!
Thank you, it was a pleasure. I have learnt something new now.
Hello Mr. Crispin,
I would suggest option one would be the one I would prefer to master. Once mastered I would feel confident to be able to grind a lathe tool on any grinder. Thank you for making the video.
Take care
Paul,,
Excellent content as always MrCrispin!
ATB, Robin
damn that milling machine with the feed handle is awesome
I subscribed because of the really good grinding tips.
Many thanks, it's a great explanation of a very complex subject
Great practical video. Well done.
Unfortunately I know have a serious case of off hand grinder envy.
I am one of the 900. Thankyou Quinn for that.
Hi Crispin. I hope you are well. I have just been trying to find out what the little Nub? centre stub? pip? is properly called, that is left after the parting off operation. You were the first person I thought of who would most likely know the answer.
Hi Mike, nice to hear from you. Personally I would call it the centre pip the same as in a facing operation. I have not consulted a text book however.
Always interesting learning each time 🇦🇺
Très intéressante vidéo. Quel grain d'abrasif utilisez-vous pour le disque ?
I like your Deckel FP1 in the background, it's much newer than mine!
1965
@@MrCrispinEnterprises yes mine is 1950. They are not very popular here in the USA. Thanks for a superb video as I learned a couple of new tricks, Jay
Love your presentation style, thanks for a great video!
great video Mr. Crispin... and it's very practicle!!!
Thanks for the teaching. It’s been fun.
Honing the top rake surface reduces built up edge. I always try to hone the top surface with strokes parallel to the chip formation/flow, and the primary clearance and radius with horizontal strokes (following the perimeter of the cutting edge). This makes for the best surface quality and free cutting ability.
PS: In scientific terms the chip to tool friction coefficient is used in the primary cutting force calculation as well as the heat generation calculation and honing the top surface reduces that friction coefficient.
Thanks
Tipping the rest is how I usually establish the angled faces on my cutting tools as well, though I normally use a little belt grinder for it.
Qual e a granulação da sua pedra de afiar bits?????
60 for roughing and 80 for finishing
@@MrCrispinEnterprises obrigado
Blowing up a grinding wheel is never a good day.
That’s exactly why I hesitated to grind tools. Had one blow up on a guy in trade school and I’ve been scared every since. 😳
I think stoning the top surface is useful because there will always be a slight burr on the unstoned surface which is fragile and could chip the edge if it breaks off. The top should be stoned FIRST though and the sides and front last. The stoning should be done from the edge down and away ONLY and not side to side as you did. This pulls any burr down and away from the edge. The side to side stoning could be used in initial shaping but should be followed with a down and away only stoning. Side to side can also be used as a last stoning if it is carefully done and with a very fine stone to give the ultimate shaving sharpness. - ALL of that is worth the bother only when you need to reliably shave off tenths at a time. For roughing and ordinary finishing work it is not really needed and such an edge is fragile in itself just because of its keen ness.
What a beauty that FP1 is.
Thank you very useful, what grade of disk do you need to make these tools? Thanks again
Thank you .. you cleared me up on my current problem.
Excellent video, thank you. So many aspects clearly explained.
This is one of the best video's I've seen on sharpening, Great job...
I do have one question, what are you using to stone the HSS bit? I just can't seem to fine the right kind and grit of stone which will do a good job.
You have to look in Tim's locker! Only joking, that one is a Norton India Square Stone.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Ok Ok you got me. Actually I did look in Tim's locker, all I found was an empty box, well not quite empty, there was a small note that read "gone hunting". Ok down to business, I'm assuming your Norton India stone is fine grit? Thank you for your quick response....
Yes that one is a fine grit
Hi, what is the name of the textbook? Right now I'm very new to this and my teacher refuses to teach any theory and just start of right away in the workshop. Which is very difficult for me
Very informative. Is the cutting point on the top face "untouched" as you grind the rake on it? If your'e an amateur like me and make a mistake, can you just shim the height of the tool to get it to cut on centre?
I think I understand the question......The top rake surface should be fully ground with no whitness of the original tool blank.
Old school men come with skills. Kids now a days come with a box of insert holders and a box of insert catalogs(or rather they expect YOU to buy them insert holders and inserts).
fantastic tool grinding tutorial. don't suppose you'd consider showing some other forms - radius, parting etc?
Yep I can do that as they come up. I have done a round nose tool.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises thx, will go look that up. first visit to your channel.
There are 2 reasons for honing both sides of an edge. First one has already been mentioned: deburring. Second one is pure geometry: if you only flatten one side of an edge, you'll never get a straight sharp line. It will remain like a...steak knife. As rough as the roughest side.
This is actually the only topic where it's the wood workers who go full maniacal precision! What you call "honing' on that scratchy sounding diamond disc, is still called rough grinding by woodworkers. Woodworkers...and Chris from Clickspring, that is.
Well that's the second video watched and again, I've learned something.
Very interesting , will you give us a passing view of grandfather's clock please. Thank you for passing on your experience.
It's actually rather less grand , it's a mantle clock of a rather a rather German appearance.
Excellent video thank you! Did you ever make a video on the honing machine you showed at the end of the video? Thank you again
No but I will do!
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Brilliant thank you
Love the "quality humour : ).
Thinking mans humor ☺️
Mr. Crispin, when will you be using your Harrison lathe? I just bought a Harrison 13" AA this week
I'm just referbing it at the moment. Hopefully up and running by the end of the year.
Lapping the top should reduce edge built-up and leaves less stress raisers for shear of the cutting edge
I agree the surface where the chip develop is the one to be lapped.
Well done BlondiHack;... Woo Hoo I'm 1 of 900
Without;... I would NOT have found this GR8 Channel... &
GR8 videos MrCrispin
What grades of grinding wheel do you use?
I may have missed the obvious, but surely honing, or superfinishing, to give it its correct title, is all about creating a smooth surface to reduce sliding friction between adjacent surfaces . . . . That said, we have ground the front and side faces in clearance, so that they have no contact with the work, and thus they have no real need to be honed - but the top face, which bears the passage of the chip, needs to be as smooth as possible to reduce the sliding friction of the chip and consequent overheating and pressure welding of chip material to the tool surface, leading to built-up edge, poor finish and consequent tool failure.
A fine finish on the tool surface will increase tool life by a factor of two or three times, so the time for this additional attention is well repaid !
Joe Powell, my old production engineering lecturer at Dudley Technical College often said that a production engineer’s job in life was to make as much swarf, as fast as possible, because the customer only buys what’s left !
Those words have stuck with me these past 50 years !
Kind regards from Brummie land !
Steve A.
Thanks for your comment. Yes the top surface is certainly critical but lets imagine you are using a tool that has a small corner radius. The smoothness of that radius has an effect on the surface finish because the shape of the tool is generating the results on the work piece. So if you can smooth the inconsistencies left from grinding by honing the I think it's an improvement.
Also I often think that honing the front and side faces is important when sharpening a tool to remove and burrs left from honing the top face. Could be wrong!
Cheers
@@MrCrispinEnterprises
I’d absolutely agree, but since, during the turning process, the tool generally follows a helical path, nose radius and carriage feed/rev play an important part in the quality of the surface finish that is generated, and the nose radius ought to exceed the feed/rev to smooth out the ridges and valleys traced out by the tool . . . .
On the subject of those pesky helices, for a given feed/rev, the helix angle increases inversely to diameter, so it follows that on very small diameters encountered in model engineering it may be necessary to increase the front clearance to avoid rubbing on the work . . . .
Kind regards,
Steve A
Interesting point
If i may, I would like to ask a question. I bought a quickchange toolpost for my ml7, the toolpost is a little high, so i want to mill of approx 2 mill of my topslide, do you think that this would greatly compromise the rigidity of my topslide. Hope you have time for a Q&A :)
I'll have a look next time I'm in my workshop. One thing to note is that some suppliers of thoes tool holders make the bottom section of the holder thicker than others. If they are quite thick then you obviously loose tool height.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises much appreciated. I chose a toolholder that would hold the tools i alreday had, and it does seem to be a little thick at the bottom of the holders.
Thanks for sharing this video mope i lernt alot.🙏