As someone who doesn't know any better What about hanging a small plate behind the back outlet to stop the spray Maybe hang some small chains on the impact face to arrest the sparks
Nice to see the grinders with all their pieces. The only Baldors I've ever got to deal with were old, broken and missing all those cool attachments that really make them complete.
That big three horse grinder is a beast. Used one five days a week when I worked as a industrial blacksmith for a forging company. Had it the last 7 years I worked. Forged all the tongs and tools for the production forge shop . Made what ever they needed. Just short of 30 years . Changed the wheels about three times a year. It got used hard and never flinched.
My first construction job I used a jackhammer every day. When it was time to change bits I could tell instantly when I got a bad regrind. Sometimes it would just snap in half.
With turning coursers threats like that I’ll start moving the carriage with the hand wheel to slow the numbers down and ensure the half nut engages all of the way. Thx for sharing.
Me not being a machinist, I learned two things. One; how to cut left hand threads. Two; how to use those grind wheel truing tool. Saw them at work along time ago but didn't use any of them. Now I know how to. Thanks Adam. 👍
I once ordered the wrong size arbor wheels for my Baldor too. I went to McMaster-Carr to buy plastic inserts to reduce the arbor size. I paid a ridiculous price for those plastic inserts and shipping on top of that. You are doing the right thing to machine nylon ones to fit Abom.
This was educational for me Adam. I would not have thought the flanges and nuts were not trued up on that quality of a grinder. Good lesson, thanks for sharing.
You may have done this off camera, but some people may not know to ring the wheel to check for cracks before installing it. A simple easy safety check before installing any wheel new or used. I haven't seen a dresser hooked on the steady rest like that, so I'll have to try that sometime.
Great video on setting up a pedestal grinder! Maybe a cool little shop project would be a deflector to protect the insulation behind the grinder from getting tore up.
You may want to consider installing a vacuum dust collection system on the 12" grinder. Although they are a bit noisy when it's turned on but the benefits It will keep the surrounding area around the grinder clean.
@@jenniferwhite6089, We had both a 10" & 12" grinder with vacuum dust collectors on each of them at my old workplace. With 12-17 workers (mind you they were not used everyday during the work week) we only needed to clean out the vacuum bag once every 6-9 months.
I have to agree with Big Dave below regarding using a diamond vs a wheel dresser. I have a 12" Baldor grinder as well and I made a holder for a diamond nib so I can true the wheel (make it run concentric to the axis of rotation of the shaft) and also make the wheel surface straight (from left to right). The allows for much smoother grinding of hss bits and drills. The straight from left to right is helpful when sharpening large drills as it keeps the cutting edges straight. My holder slides on the tool rest and has a fence that engages the front edge of the tool rest to make it travel in a straight line. I had to machine the front edge of the rests as the 'as cast' surface was too rough and not straight enough to guide the diamond. Ken.
Every shop I have ever been in had at leasf one Baldor grinder, most of them older than me I'm in my 60's and the Baldors I have seen all looked older than me. Talk about reliability!. Keep in mind the loose fitting fixtures are to your advantage. When you install a new wheel, you can use pencil point alignment as your preset, then dress them by hand once everything is snugged.
Sad you have to be sure to point out the machine is unplugged. Every know-it-all and brilliant couch machinists telling you you’re doing things wrong. The worst aspect of UA-cam. Keep up the good work and thanks for the knowledge!
One thing we are required to do by Health and Safety law here in the UK when mounting any abrasive wheel, is to RING the wheel before mounting them, even if it is a brand new wheel. As you don't know what has happened to the packaging in transit the box could have been dropped or anything and the wheel might look ok but by ringing it you will know if you have a cracked wheel straight away by its dull sound. If it's ok it will ring like a bell. This is exactly the same principal that used to happen to railway wheels. A man would go down the length of a train and hit the wheel with a certain weight long handled hammer. If any wheel was cracked then it would show up by the dead sound.
I'm probably the only one among your viewers, but I'd like to see a detailed tutorial on sharpening large drill bits. I'd also suggest a wooden pad under the pedestal and some manner of collection system if for no other reason than protecting the wall insulation from fire.
That grinder is so smooth! Good work. I designed and 3d printed a holder for a diamond dresser. It has a thread that advances the diamond tool. It runs across the front of the rest.
It's always nice to see a job done properly. I come across so much janky stuff at work where people just half arse it, watching a professional at work is refreshing.
I put the grinder on a neoprene pad 1 in bigger than the base and 1/4 in thick. No more vibration problem with uneven floor. Great content on grinder setup! Thanks HF
The vibrations are telling you something is off, what you are doing is not really helping what you're trying to do. If you take the time to true the wheels it will drastically improve your machines ability to do the work.
Adam, Nuts have two sides. The "clamping force" side is clear of numbers and letters. On one nut, the cut was easier and clearer because it was cut oon the clamping force side. When tightening, those numbers and letters must be on the outside so the grip force is flat and, an Inspector can verify the correct nut was used. That's much more involved than what you are doing here - just wanted to pass that along - I believe it's in Machinery's Handbook. Since you were concerned about equal forces on the wheel and balance, and rightfully so, I would have machined the outside faces of those plates - they were all different from each other. As usual, you are an impressive guy - keep 'em coming.
I really appreciate how meticulously you setup and use your equipment. I wonder if you were taught that by your dad/grandpa or if it is just the way your way of doing things. I'm disorganized and my son is incredibly ultra-organized. I believe I contributed to his approach, unfortunately. I keep all my grinders in one area and mounted a jet dust filter directly above them and I think it catches at least some of the dust.
Israel is #2 in technology in the world. There are many people there that know how to apply themselves, and that's always a plus. This may be why Baldor chose them. Israel also makes some very good machining tools. One of them is Vardex. They have been around for more than 50 years, and have set some industry standards.
fun video. there is something pleasing to the ear when i hear smooth-running grinder. i made some mods on some cheap grinders. i have. switch out those stamped steel end caps for some turned 1018 pieces and some snug fitting Delrin bushes made a big deference. thanks for sharing.
Hi Adam, congrats for your new grinding machines. Please be carfull with those sparks hitting your white cover wall. Also, the machines dust output in the back could be connected to dust receptacles to minimize impact on the shop. Have a nice week !!
Hey Adam with the grinders near the wall and the insulation there I would run some some kind of pipe out the discharge of the grinders to the floor to keep from damaging the wall insulation. I would suggest some kind of exhaust piping maybe the flex kind and point toward the floor. You could have run down into a metal bucket and find some small gage metal screen mesh to put over the top of the bucket to try and keep the metal dust contained.
I was looking at new bench grinders online at 3:00 am this morning and wondering does anybody make a bench grinder that doesn't shake and vibrate all over the shop? You know as much as these American-Made Baldor bench grinders cost it's a damn shame the manufacturer couldn't take the time to true and balance the rotating assembly components, minus the stones of course. People used to take pride in their work and the products they produced and would have made sure those rotating components were trued and balanced before they left the plant.
Just in time. I got a new 8" Jet grinder for my hobby area. Will follow your methods. My production shop has an 8" Baldor that I bought new many years ago after the first one was stolen!
Fantastic work, as usual, Adam. It's impressive seeing how quiet those Baldor grinders are, especially after your minor modifications. It's a shame they didn't take care of that at the factory since I'm sure they cost quite a bit. They don't deem to understand that without those parts being balanced. The unbalanced mass will eventually shake the grinder apart, leaving you with a pile of crap. Or maybe they do and count on them not lasting that king and have to be replaced. 🤷🏻♂️
I don’t know why Adam doesn’t use a Mandrel between centers. Pound it on and use a long key with a hose clamp to hold it from turning. Most of the time clamps are not needed, provided you machine towards the increasing mandrel taper. Do the inside/outside and clean up the cupped area also. Take mandrel out, pound disc off and flip it around, do the other side. I swear! I’m a 5 yr hobby machinist and watch all the machinist channels. I would like to see more drive dog and mandrel machining.
20:40 Wow, baldor is expensive but still gotta be machine trued to work as expected. Great work. Will be doing the same in a craftsman I have that shakes like w palm tree in a Hurricane! Thank you!
Use a Sharpie and mark your grit size on the grinder guard or use a fire extinguisher tag and wire it to the back of the pedestal. Memory flies faster than time. Great smile Adam.
Adam, I know you get these suggestions and so on often enough, but you might want to think about installing some backing behind the grinders, as that insulation won't last very long with all of the hot sparks coming out the back of the grinder. That plastic doesn't take much of a beating before it's done and shredded.
Something to think about you need a sheet of plywood or metal on the wall behind the grinders so the sparks don't set the insulation on fire, if you use metal you can always take it outside and pressure wash it for a good cleaning
I was going to mention that, but wanted to see if anyone else had. I probably still will, just in case one comment gets more likes than another, so he can see. I don't think he mentioned anything about protecting the wall.
Another way he can do this is extend the exhaust ports with a gradual 90 towards the floor and place a 5 gal bucket half full of water as a spark arrestor
I'd hook up a shop vac mini with catch bag inside connected to a Y and hose to each side. Hang, make a mount or strap it to the beam behind the grinders. So you don't have to bend over all the time to turn it on. That would really keep the dust and grit contained. 😉👍
Baldor is a top grade bench/ pedestal grinder, I'M a bit decived that you'll have to remachine the wheel side support plates. I've had to machine new support plates on many lower grade bench grinders and I modified the design to machine the wheel adapter bushing integral to the inner support plate to have a better support and avoid wobbeling as on these cheap grinders, the step on the shaft designed to provide thrust to the inner wheel support plate is very often minimalist and very often damaged requiring the truing of the armature shaft. very good video.
Yeah srsly. I buy old machinery and expect to have to do work before I can use it, but that’s ok because I don’t pay high prices, that’s the trade off. I’ll be damned if I’m paying new baldor prices and then have to finish machining the dang thing. Sheesh.
@@DavidHerscher I buy old tools and machines too so I can fix them up and sell them. Sometimes i keep a lot of it lol and when i say old I mean old like pre 60s. Got my eye on a walker turner radial drill press currently
Hope ring tested them before those wheels. Those big wheels would do real damage if they exploded. Standard procedure to ring any wheel before mounting. Also standard practice to stand aside when letting grinder come up to speed Beautiful grinder. Should serve you well!
Always ring test the grinding wheel before you mount it on a spindle...most important part to fitting a wheel. Un plug it don't test the wheel for any cracks..!! Nice threading btw
As was I! Also, NEVER to grind on the SIDE of the wheel! Too much force there is a recipe for grenading the wheel! And you don't want to be in the "plane of rotation" if that happens. Guy did it in HS metal shop (not ME) and it was a good thing he was wearing a full-face shield. Which BTW was the last time that shield was used, it was ruined. Same guy later left a chuck key in the lathe and turned it on! Some people just need to stay away from power tools...
Hi Adam .. good to see your so meticulous with your grinders, & the machine time you put into it. The bench grinders I have, have always been good straight from the factory,.
You might have a problem with the sparks hitting that plastic wrapped insulation (diaper wrap). I would put a wood or melamine panel over it. Fire resistant doesn't mean you cant melt holes in it.
There are fire resistant bags which Adam could attach to the outlets of the grinder to catch some good amount of the dust from the material removal as well. And Adam, you should really wear some respiatory equipment, at least wehn facing the stones. Thanks for the great vid!
Some great work there, now I got another job to do, thanks man!! Surprised a premium brand like Baldor hasn't taken care of that already, those castings were rough af in terms of dimensional accuracy and plumbness. Looked like the centre holes weren't especially central either. I'd be tempted either to bore out the centres completely and bush them, or to remake them from scratch.
Nice Grinders! You could make some narrower back up plates so you can use the 2" wheels. If you face both sides of the nuts, in 10 years you don't have to remember to install the correct side. Or if you have anyone ever help you.
May I suggest you install the grinder with two hoses that are connected to a plastic container with a lid, so that you can collect as much grinding dust as possible. Your lungs will thank you in the long run, and your workshop will be less dirty.
Nice pieces Adam. I would recommend moving that buffer over a bit in case you have to do any larger pieces and really work them in odd positions especially if you use any buffing pads. In my shop I don't use the covers but I stick pin 1 or 2 sheets of poster cardboard and stick to the back wall. Also duck tape 1 piece on the floor where I stand so all crap doesn't stick to the floor. Replace them as needed. I've done many years of grinding, scotchbright wheels and buffing so just a suggestion....Looking like a nice shop taking place buddy...Ricko
And always stand to the side the first time you start a grinder with a new wheel! You never know if a new wheel has an invisible crack from being dropped in shipping. Even doing the "ring" test isn't always 100 percent.
First time I've seen Abom make a proper woopsie working on that thread. Says a lot about his skill level after watching his videos for years and seeing nothing but clean parts.
Ha!!! I’ve always watched you do a scratch pass on threading and I often wondered, did you ever make a mistake on threading? The exception today only emphasizes how good you are that this is so rare. Thanks for including it.
I've had to go looking for those dressing steels so many times because of the bolts walking out. The last time I happened I staked the nuts which seems to have helped.
Hey Adam with the grinders near the wall and the insulation there I would run some some kind of pipe out the discharge of the grinders to the floor to keep from damaging the wall insulation. I would suggest some kind of exhaust piping maybe the flex kind and point toward the floor. You could have run down into a metal bucket and find some small gage metal screen mesh to put over the top of the bucket to try and keep the metal dust contained.
Looking at the calibre of some of the comments - it may be worth mentioning that when using a dial indicator to true the gringing wheels - you should dispose of it thoughtfully afterwards!
That 12" Baldor is a super-nice grinder motor. So smooth! Just looking at comments it's amazing to me how many trolls you have watching LOL. So many critics on BS notions! Oh well, I enjoy your content every time. It relaxes me.
@@Duschbag I've had 3 of them in my shop and sold them once I retired and shutdown the business. I thought I still had 1 left put away in 1 of my 40' storage containers so I could use in my home shop but I guess someone decided they needed it for free thinking I wouldn't look for it for some time down the road since I retired. Of course now I need it....
Been selling Industrial Tools for over forty two years and have sold a few Baldor Grinders and Polishing Lathes. But you Sir took ownership of these to an entirely new level. NOBODY respects Bench Grinders when they're using them. Until they BITE YOU BAD..! If a new wheel comes apart at speed because of an unseen defect, the Grinding Wheel Institute compares a 6" x 1" Bench Grinder Wheel coming apart at 3450rpm to the blast of a 12ga Shotgun. Do NOT stand in front of the Grinder when turning it on after installing new wheels and when they get a poorly worn face, REPLACE THEM if you don't know how or have the proper tools to dress a new face on them. Safety is your own responsibility.
I've been a viewer of this channel for about 6 years, and it's the first time I've seen him mess up something. It wasn't even a critical part, just a mandrel.
I’m yet to do any threading ops on my new equipment, but it is what I am most worried about. I’m sure you get use to it, but it seems like it would sure be easy to not engage it perfectly every single time and screw up your threads. Maybe I’m worried about nothing, but sure seems like it would be difficult to engage in the exact same spot each time. Keep up the good work and thanks for the knowledge!
Just start on the same threading dial line everytime, you'll be fine. You can do the math later and figure out other lines, but stick to one line and you can't mess it up (as long as one set up and gear train doesn't change). It's intimidating at first but practice a little with shallow passes and get used to your motions. Also give yourself a good lead in area before the tool gets to the work so you can stop it if you missed your number. Good luck
@@daveb3910 Thank you! I guess I’m just having trouble picturing that it would engage right in the same point every time. Seems like it would be easy to be just even a quarter or half a turn early or late engaging the half nut. I’m sure it’s not bad I’ve just always had a hard time wrapping my head around engaging it in the exact same spot every time when you’re working with a screw mechanism. I have a tendency to overanalyze and want things perfect. Thanks again, I’m going to give it a shot tomorrow.
FYI that insulation behind the grinder isn’t cheap I would cover with something that will resist the sparks from the grinding wheel.
That’s what the guard are for.
@@MichaelEdelman1954 you can never be too safe
As someone who doesn't know any better
What about hanging a small plate behind the back outlet to stop the spray
Maybe hang some small chains on the impact face to arrest the sparks
Agree 100% I would put a piece of Sheet Metal back there in front of that Insulation!
@@funny0000000 Yes Adam is a dirty dirty boi.
Nice to see the grinders with all their pieces. The only Baldors I've ever got to deal with were old, broken and missing all those cool attachments that really make them complete.
That big three horse grinder is a beast. Used one five days a week when I worked as a industrial blacksmith for a forging company. Had it the last 7 years I worked.
Forged all the tongs and tools for the production forge shop . Made what ever they needed. Just short of 30 years . Changed the wheels about three times a year.
It got used hard and never flinched.
My first construction job I used a jackhammer every day. When it was time to change bits I could tell instantly when I got a bad regrind. Sometimes it would just snap in half.
@@firesurfer when bits snap like that it's most likely a heat treat problem. Cracked during quenching or was hardened to be too hard.
@@steveparker8723 It's like they forgot to temper them after hardening.
In the age of all this technology, cnc etc it is refreshing to see true craftsmanship in machining. Thanks
With turning coursers threats like that I’ll start moving the carriage with the hand wheel to slow the numbers down and ensure the half nut engages all of the way. Thx for sharing.
Me not being a machinist, I learned two things. One; how to cut left hand threads. Two; how to use those grind wheel truing tool. Saw them at work along time ago but didn't use any of them. Now I know how to. Thanks Adam. 👍
YW
I once ordered the wrong size arbor wheels for my Baldor too. I went to McMaster-Carr to buy plastic inserts to reduce the arbor size. I paid a ridiculous price for those plastic inserts and shipping on top of that. You are doing the right thing to machine nylon ones to fit Abom.
This was educational for me Adam. I would not have thought the flanges and nuts were not trued up on that quality of a grinder. Good lesson, thanks for sharing.
I tried doing these exact improvements myself with hand files and sand paper. Seemed to help. Must be great having a machine shop at your disposal.
You may have done this off camera, but some people may not know to ring the wheel to check for cracks before installing it. A simple easy safety check before installing any wheel new or used. I haven't seen a dresser hooked on the steady rest like that, so I'll have to try that sometime.
You have to readjust the rest after dressing the wheel.
@@firesurfer you don’t say? lol
That one grinder is worth more than anything in my entire shop
Great video on setting up a pedestal grinder! Maybe a cool little shop project would be a deflector to protect the insulation behind the grinder from getting tore up.
Great setup! I’d get the dust control system. It will help save your other machines.
You may want to consider installing a vacuum dust collection system on the 12" grinder. Although they are a bit noisy when it's turned on but the benefits It will keep the surrounding area around the grinder clean.
great idea! the question in a busy shop is who will be cleaning the dust collection system?
@@jenniferwhite6089, We had both a 10" & 12" grinder with vacuum dust collectors on each of them at my old workplace. With 12-17 workers (mind you they were not used everyday during the work week) we only needed to clean out the vacuum bag once every 6-9 months.
Superb attention to details on those backup plates!
😎
Hook the shopvac to the grinder while in use really helps and easy to hookup !
I have to agree with Big Dave below regarding using a diamond vs a wheel dresser. I have a 12" Baldor grinder as well and I made a holder for a diamond nib so I can true the wheel (make it run concentric to the axis of rotation of the shaft) and also make the wheel surface straight (from left to right). The allows for much smoother grinding of hss bits and drills. The straight from left to right is helpful when sharpening large drills as it keeps the cutting edges straight. My holder slides on the tool rest and has a fence that engages the front edge of the tool rest to make it travel in a straight line. I had to machine the front edge of the rests as the 'as cast' surface was too rough and not straight enough to guide the diamond. Ken.
Every shop I have ever been in had at leasf one Baldor grinder, most of them older than me I'm in my 60's and the Baldors I have seen all looked older than me. Talk about reliability!. Keep in mind the loose fitting fixtures are to your advantage. When you install a new wheel, you can use pencil point alignment as your preset, then dress them by hand once everything is snugged.
I keep thinking about the 4 black spots that are going to be on that pretty white wall.
Sad you have to be sure to point out the machine is unplugged. Every know-it-all and brilliant couch machinists telling you you’re doing things wrong. The worst aspect of UA-cam. Keep up the good work and thanks for the knowledge!
One thing we are required to do by Health and Safety law here in the UK when mounting any abrasive wheel, is to RING the wheel before mounting them, even if it is a brand new wheel. As you don't know what has happened to the packaging in transit the box could have been dropped or anything and the wheel might look ok but by ringing it you will know if you have a cracked wheel straight away by its dull sound. If it's ok it will ring like a bell. This is exactly the same principal that used to happen to railway wheels. A man would go down the length of a train and hit the wheel with a certain weight long handled hammer. If any wheel was cracked then it would show up by the dead sound.
Thanks for sharing! That grit on that 12 inch zipped that tool out in no time. Great work.
I'm probably the only one among your viewers, but I'd like to see a detailed tutorial on sharpening large drill bits. I'd also suggest a wooden pad under the pedestal and some manner of collection system if for no other reason than protecting the wall insulation from fire.
This old tony has an old video on sharpening bits if I recall you check him out. And I agree we can enjoy another one from Abom on sharpening bits
You should plumb the exhaust ports on the grinder pointed down into a bucket of water. Keep the shop cleaner and save the paint on the back wall.
lol
I just moved and would like to add a abrasive room to my shop
If he did that the tool rest would vertical and impossible to use. 🤣
He did say he was probably going to move the grinder at some point so maybe when it's in the final spot
That's not paint on that wall. It is a plastic backing, covering the insulation on the exterior of the building.
Between you and the comments I get to learn a lot.Thanks, folks.
That grinder is so smooth! Good work. I designed and 3d printed a holder for a diamond dresser. It has a thread that advances the diamond tool. It runs across the front of the rest.
Flex duct to a bucket and an old shirt over the top will allow the air to escape, keep the grinding dust in the bucket and your shop and lungs clean.
It's always nice to see a job done properly. I come across so much janky stuff at work where people just half arse it, watching a professional at work is refreshing.
2:39 ... NICE wiring, set up, your electricians do great work!!
I put the grinder on a neoprene pad 1 in bigger than the base and 1/4 in thick. No more vibration problem with uneven floor. Great content on grinder setup! Thanks HF
The vibrations are telling you something is off, what you are doing is not really helping what you're trying to do. If you take the time to true the wheels it will drastically improve your machines ability to do the work.
If you want to stop the vibration and resonance from the stands, fill them with kiln dried sand or lead shot.
Adam, Nuts have two sides. The "clamping force" side is clear of numbers and letters. On one nut, the cut was easier and clearer because it was cut oon the clamping force side. When tightening, those numbers and letters must be on the outside so the grip force is flat and, an Inspector can verify the correct nut was used. That's much more involved than what you are doing here - just wanted to pass that along - I believe it's in Machinery's Handbook.
Since you were concerned about equal forces on the wheel and balance, and rightfully so, I would have machined the outside faces of those plates - they were all different from each other. As usual, you are an impressive guy - keep 'em coming.
I really appreciate how meticulously you setup and use your equipment. I wonder if you were taught that by your dad/grandpa or if it is just the way your way of doing things. I'm disorganized and my son is incredibly ultra-organized. I believe I contributed to his approach, unfortunately. I keep all my grinders in one area and mounted a jet dust filter directly above them and I think it catches at least some of the dust.
Israel is #2 in technology in the world. There are many people there that know how to apply themselves, and that's always a plus. This may be why Baldor chose them.
Israel also makes some very good machining tools. One of them is Vardex. They have been around for more than 50 years, and have set some industry standards.
fun video. there is something pleasing to the ear when i hear smooth-running grinder. i made some mods on some cheap grinders. i have. switch out those stamped steel end caps for some turned 1018 pieces and some snug fitting Delrin bushes made a big deference. thanks for sharing.
Just a suggestion from an older guy to a younger guy: make one of Mr. Pete's diamond point wheel dresser. They work great. IMHO
Why don't you make him one tough guy?
New lathe seems so quiet and SMOOTH!
Looks like a great way to help true up the grinder wheels.
I love Baldor grinders. Nicely done.
Hi Adam, congrats for your new grinding machines. Please be carfull with those sparks hitting your white cover wall. Also, the machines dust output in the back could be connected to dust receptacles to minimize impact on the shop. Have a nice week !!
Hey Adam with the grinders near the wall and the insulation there I would run some some kind of pipe out the discharge of the grinders to the floor to keep from damaging the wall insulation. I would suggest some kind of exhaust piping maybe the flex kind and point toward the floor. You could have run down into a metal bucket and find some small gage metal screen mesh to put over the top of the bucket to try and keep the metal dust contained.
I was looking at new bench grinders online at 3:00 am this morning and wondering does anybody make a bench grinder that doesn't shake and vibrate all over the shop? You know as much as these American-Made Baldor bench grinders cost it's a damn shame the manufacturer couldn't take the time to true and balance the rotating assembly components, minus the stones of course. People used to take pride in their work and the products they produced and would have made sure those rotating components were trued and balanced before they left the plant.
Just get a jet or metabo.
Just in time. I got a new 8" Jet grinder for my hobby area. Will follow your methods. My production shop has an 8" Baldor that I bought new many years ago after the first one was stolen!
Love your videos!! I learn a lot from each and every one!! Even small details!!
Always good to know what to approximate here at my home.
It's always a good time to work with decent machines such as a Baldor. Just how many shops out there true up their cast flanges !
Fantastic work, as usual, Adam. It's impressive seeing how quiet those Baldor grinders are, especially after your minor modifications. It's a shame they didn't take care of that at the factory since I'm sure they cost quite a bit. They don't deem to understand that without those parts being balanced. The unbalanced mass will eventually shake the grinder apart, leaving you with a pile of crap. Or maybe they do and count on them not lasting that king and have to be replaced. 🤷🏻♂️
I don’t know why Adam doesn’t use a Mandrel between centers. Pound it on and use a long key with a hose clamp to hold it from turning. Most of the time clamps are not needed, provided you machine towards the increasing mandrel taper. Do the inside/outside and clean up the cupped area also. Take mandrel out, pound disc off and flip it around, do the other side. I swear! I’m a 5 yr hobby machinist and watch all the machinist channels. I would like to see more drive dog and mandrel machining.
Dang I’ll say this much, that grinder is smoove like butter.
20:40
Wow, baldor is expensive but still gotta be machine trued to work as expected. Great work. Will be doing the same in a craftsman I have that shakes like w palm tree in a Hurricane! Thank you!
Fantastic video...balance is the key here as for all precision grinding tools..really loved this thanks.
Use a Sharpie and mark your grit size on the grinder guard or use a fire extinguisher tag and wire it to the back of the pedestal. Memory flies faster than time. Great smile Adam.
EXCELLENT IDEA
Adam,
I know you get these suggestions and so on often enough, but you might want to think about installing some backing behind the grinders, as that insulation won't last very long with all of the hot sparks coming out the back of the grinder. That plastic doesn't take much of a beating before it's done and shredded.
Something to think about you need a sheet of plywood or metal on the wall behind the grinders so the sparks don't set the insulation on fire, if you use metal you can always take it outside and pressure wash it for a good cleaning
I was going to mention that, but wanted to see if anyone else had. I probably still will, just in case one comment gets more likes than another, so he can see. I don't think he mentioned anything about protecting the wall.
Another way he can do this is extend the exhaust ports with a gradual 90 towards the floor and place a 5 gal bucket half full of water as a spark arrestor
I'd hook up a shop vac mini with catch bag inside connected to a Y and hose to each side. Hang, make a mount or strap it to the beam behind the grinders. So you don't have to bend over all the time to turn it on. That would really keep the dust and grit contained. 😉👍
A lot of Debbie Downers here! Awesome looking grinder, made short work of that 1/2 hss. I dread grinding 1/2 on my grinder due to the time commitment.
Baldor is a top grade bench/ pedestal grinder, I'M a bit decived that you'll have to remachine the wheel side support plates.
I've had to machine new support plates on many lower grade bench grinders and I modified the design to machine the wheel adapter bushing integral to the inner support plate to have a better support and avoid wobbeling as on these cheap grinders, the step on the shaft designed to provide thrust to the inner wheel support plate is very often minimalist and very often damaged requiring the truing of the armature shaft.
very good video.
The camera frame rate syncing with the chuck speed like a timing light is pretty cool. Showing the stamps on the chuck jaws.
Could be the LED lights doing that. Pretty cool.
Put some sheet metal up against the wall or better yet hook up a small dust collector to avoid getting that white insulation filthy.
No.
Youd think Baldor being the Cadillac of grinders and considering what they cost that they'd machine the backing plates.
Cadillacs aren't that great either anymore
@@carabela125 it's the saying and you know what I meant lol. Should I amend the saying? That _______ is the 50s Cadillac of whatever?
Yeah srsly. I buy old machinery and expect to have to do work before I can use it, but that’s ok because I don’t pay high prices, that’s the trade off. I’ll be damned if I’m paying new baldor prices and then have to finish machining the dang thing. Sheesh.
@@DavidHerscher I buy old tools and machines too so I can fix them up and sell them. Sometimes i keep a lot of it lol and when i say old I mean old like pre 60s. Got my eye on a walker turner radial drill press currently
@@maggs131 Psh, 60s you’re living in the future. My oldest machine is a lathe from mid/late 1800s and my daily driver is a 1937 sb. Come at me bro 😂
The new lathe sounds great and I can hear how rigid it is. Nice machine. Hope to at some point be able to justify a new lathe as well.
Hope ring tested them before those wheels. Those big wheels would do real damage if they exploded. Standard procedure to ring any wheel before mounting. Also standard practice to stand aside when letting grinder come up to speed Beautiful grinder. Should serve you well!
Always ring test the grinding wheel before you mount it on a spindle...most important part to fitting a wheel. Un plug it don't test the wheel for any cracks..!!
Nice threading btw
Every time I watch your vids I get educated thanks
Excellent Video!
I'm going to have to pull the my flange plates on my 12" baldor grinder and true them up on my lathe!
Nice, never considered such precision for grinders... 🙂
I was taught to stand to the side when turning on a grinder, every time
As was I! Also, NEVER to grind on the SIDE of the wheel! Too much force there is a recipe for grenading the wheel! And you don't want to be in the "plane of rotation" if that happens. Guy did it in HS metal shop (not ME) and it was a good thing he was wearing a full-face shield. Which BTW was the last time that shield was used, it was ruined. Same guy later left a chuck key in the lathe and turned it on! Some people just need to stay away from power tools...
You will need to protect the Insulation of that wall behind. The grinder ist trowing quite some sparks on it.
I was thinking the same thing. An inexpensive sheet of plywood screwed to the steel channels would work.
Hi Adam .. good to see your so meticulous with your grinders, & the machine time you put into it. The bench grinders I have, have always been good straight from the factory,.
that lathe run so smooth
Adam those pedestals could use some cork gaskets between them and the floor.
Possibly some fire foam inside for noise dampening or fill with sand.
I think this is the first time I've ever seen a brand new lathe in action. Looks pretty sexy!
Put sand in the polisher column to quiet it.
You might have a problem with the sparks hitting that plastic wrapped insulation (diaper wrap). I would put a wood or melamine panel over it. Fire resistant doesn't mean you cant melt holes in it.
There are fire resistant bags which Adam could attach to the outlets of the grinder to catch some good amount of the dust from the material removal as well. And Adam, you should really wear some respiatory equipment, at least wehn facing the stones.
Thanks for the great vid!
Great to know what can cause the vibration
Some great work there, now I got another job to do, thanks man!! Surprised a premium brand like Baldor hasn't taken care of that already, those castings were rough af in terms of dimensional accuracy and plumbness. Looked like the centre holes weren't especially central either. I'd be tempted either to bore out the centres completely and bush them, or to remake them from scratch.
Considering that a 12" baldor grinder was $3000-$5000 you shouldn't have to worry about the plates.
Nice Grinders! You could make some narrower back up plates so you can use the 2" wheels. If you face both sides of the nuts, in 10 years you don't have to remember to install the correct side. Or if you have anyone ever help you.
May I suggest you install the grinder with two hoses that are connected to a plastic container with a lid, so that you can collect as much grinding dust as possible.
Your lungs will thank you in the long run, and your workshop will be less dirty.
You can, but I won't listen.
Nice pieces Adam. I would recommend moving that buffer over a bit in case you have to do any larger pieces and really work them in odd positions especially if you use any buffing pads. In my shop I don't use the covers but I stick pin 1 or 2 sheets of poster cardboard and stick to the back wall. Also duck tape 1 piece on the floor where I stand so all crap doesn't stick to the floor. Replace them as needed. I've done many years of grinding, scotchbright wheels and buffing so just a suggestion....Looking like a nice shop taking place buddy...Ricko
Also the grinding dust would contaminate the pollishing pads and you will end up with two grinders because of the cross contaminatipon.
@@andrekocsis2215 exactly
Very smooth cutting insert . Thanks for sharing .
I can't help but notice the plastic covering on the insulation. Are you planning on covering it or putting some 90 degree bends facing the ground
I was thinking the same thing, shooting sparks into the plastic on the insulation
Me too. After about 10 or fifteen grinds you will find out how expensive that insulation is.
@@englishteacher1260 notice how Adam’s fingers are in the sparks, those sparks are not hot enough to damage the plastic covering.
And always stand to the side the first time you start a grinder with a new wheel! You never know if a new wheel has an invisible crack from being dropped in shipping. Even doing the "ring" test isn't always 100 percent.
That lathe Adam, it's like listening to soothing music.
First time I've seen Abom make a proper woopsie working on that thread. Says a lot about his skill level after watching his videos for years and seeing nothing but clean parts.
Always impressive work. I feel my OCD starting to awaken!
Phew! I was waiting for the cutter to bite into that left handed nut and try to unscrew it from the mandrel.
Adam what about putting a nonflammable bag on the discharge hole we use to use them on all of our grinders save on messes
No you don't.
Ha!!! I’ve always watched you do a scratch pass on threading and I often wondered, did you ever make a mistake on threading? The exception today only emphasizes how good you are that this is so rare. Thanks for including it.
Yes.
I've had to go looking for those dressing steels so many times because of the bolts walking out. The last time I happened I staked the nuts which seems to have helped.
you would think that with a grinder that costs as much as those do, those washers would be nicer than they are
Hey Adam with the grinders near the wall and the insulation there I would run some some kind of pipe out the discharge of the grinders to the floor to keep from damaging the wall insulation. I would suggest some kind of exhaust piping maybe the flex kind and point toward the floor. You could have run down into a metal bucket and find some small gage metal screen mesh to put over the top of the bucket to try and keep the metal dust contained.
I had the same concern. You could at least put some metal sheet against the wall.
Y'all can do it for him if you're so concerned about it.
Looking at the calibre of some of the comments - it may be worth mentioning that when using a dial indicator to true the gringing wheels - you should dispose of it thoughtfully afterwards!
why?
That 12" Baldor is a super-nice grinder motor. So smooth! Just looking at comments it's amazing to me how many trolls you have watching LOL. So many critics on BS notions! Oh well, I enjoy your content every time. It relaxes me.
Me to, just like enjoying pina coladas naked on the beach.
Next on the list, get a nice BurrKing 760 belt sander/grinder with a variable speed up to 8k rpm. ...Can't beat them...Ricko
Call me for a Quote. I'll extend my best pricing and include some No-Charge Abrasive Belts with your purchase...
@@Duschbag I've had 3 of them in my shop and sold them once I retired and shutdown the business. I thought I still had 1 left put away in 1 of my 40' storage containers so I could use in my home shop but I guess someone decided they needed it for free thinking I wouldn't look for it for some time down the road since I retired. Of course now I need it....
Nice machines, Adam. Thanks for sharing!
Been selling Industrial Tools for over forty two years and have sold a few Baldor Grinders and Polishing Lathes. But you Sir took ownership of these to an entirely new level. NOBODY respects Bench Grinders when they're using them. Until they BITE YOU BAD..!
If a new wheel comes apart at speed because of an unseen defect, the Grinding Wheel Institute compares a 6" x 1" Bench Grinder Wheel coming apart at 3450rpm to the blast of a 12ga Shotgun. Do NOT stand in front of the Grinder when turning it on after installing new wheels and when they get a poorly worn face, REPLACE THEM if you don't know how or have the proper tools to dress a new face on them. Safety is your own responsibility.
I've been a viewer of this channel for about 6 years, and it's the first time I've seen him mess up something. It wasn't even a critical part, just a mandrel.
Adam Booth using a dro on a lathe? My, what is the world coming to? Dro one of the best tools in the shop.
you think that's progress, wait until he fires up his 2 new CnC machines :)
Being able to engage the half nut at 250 rpm is amazing! I can't thread past 120!
I’m yet to do any threading ops on my new equipment, but it is what I am most worried about. I’m sure you get use to it, but it seems like it would sure be easy to not engage it perfectly every single time and screw up your threads. Maybe I’m worried about nothing, but sure seems like it would be difficult to engage in the exact same spot each time. Keep up the good work and thanks for the knowledge!
Makena few practise pieces to figure the motions, that helps sort out a lot of problems before you get started on something important
Just start on the same threading dial line everytime, you'll be fine. You can do the math later and figure out other lines, but stick to one line and you can't mess it up (as long as one set up and gear train doesn't change). It's intimidating at first but practice a little with shallow passes and get used to your motions.
Also give yourself a good lead in area before the tool gets to the work so you can stop it if you missed your number. Good luck
@@daveb3910 Thank you! I guess I’m just having trouble picturing that it would engage right in the same point every time. Seems like it would be easy to be just even a quarter or half a turn early or late engaging the half nut. I’m sure it’s not bad I’ve just always had a hard time wrapping my head around engaging it in the exact same spot every time when you’re working with a screw mechanism. I have a tendency to overanalyze and want things perfect. Thanks again, I’m going to give it a shot tomorrow.
It would have been very nice to see the grinder in operation in original and after adjustment. Just to see the effects!