Installing Lithium Batteries For My RV (Your Help Needed)
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- In working with the amazing team over at Enduro Power and their lithium batteries specialist, we partnered to come up with a solution that might just be of help to you. If you are looking for a power solution but do not want to have all of the permanent install worries, then this is the best time for you to get involved. I am starting an installation that will power my whole RV and will be easy to move from RV to RV if I ever decided to sell my travel trailer. In this video, I go over some beginning thoughts for the process and need your help to get started.
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Jason have you thought about going 24 volt rather than 12, you would use smaller wire. Just a thought.
I did think about going that direction. I wanted to stick with one battery and not have to install converters and such to run the 12v side of things. I could have gone with 24v 200ah and in sense double that capacity of what i currently have but I also wanted to show how the every day person could easily install the same system.
I have four 100W solar panels on the roof and two 100W suitcase solar panels. Under the bed, I have three Battle Born 100A batteries, a 3000W Victron Multiplus inverter, a Victron 100/50 charge controller, a Victron BMV 712 battery monitor, a Victron 30A DC to DC charger and an external 3-position switch for the inverter. On the nightstand next to the bed, I have the monitor for the battery and a Cerbo GX monitor for the inverter. Access under the bed is a bit of a pain, but I like it there. I might be able to rearrange things to fit a fourth battery, but I'm OK with three for the time being.
Wow. What a setup. Sounds like you have the ability to be off grid for as long as you want to. Well, Depending on water supply and Grey/black tanks. Did you do the install?
@@HowToRV I did most of the piecemeal install by myself, but my grandson, who is often visiting us in SoCal from Pennsylvania so we can do photo trips together, helped some, too. I don't do a lot of boondocking, though, as I am not full-time and I prefer to not have to worry about finding a location nearby where I'm going. As I'm now retired, I just love working on projects at my own pace (slow ;-).
@@jimfrazee me too. I have a campsite at my home so that I can do projects, make videos and have fun. We do love the boondocking side of camping but mostly during winter, fall and spring time. Summers are to hot here and humidity it really high.
The only location where you will have adequate climate control is under your bed. I'd suggest you build a compartment with plexiglass to protect the electronics and allow you to see that the proper lights are on. 200ah battery will not power much, so stay away from hot climates.
Thank you for the suggestions. I like the plexiglas idea. I will have to look into that.
I have almost the same setup. I ran the wires for the solar through the roof into my front closet and mounted the charge controller in there. then the wire to the front storage bay. I put the battery under the bed, wires across top of front bay. I mounted the inverter, disconnect, bus bar on a board attached to the front supports of the pass through storage bay and brought the original battery cables in and attached to the bus bar. The new charger I put behind the original charger and disconnected the original and tied the new into the dc panel. Instead of the plug on the outside I put a go power 30 amp transfer switch where my current shore power comes in under one of the kitchen cabinets. I ran a wire from the new charger to the transfer switch. I wired it in to the main power in with a breaker. I ran a wire under the camper from the front bay inverter output to the transfer switch. You do not want to power the charger when the inverter is on.
I love all the details. I see that you put a lot of thought into it. I am shooting for an install that can be easily transferred to another RV at some point. My goal was to show folks that it doesn't have to be so permanent. I am going to write down all of your install details though. I can really use them for a future install. Good job.
I have the exact same Trailer as you and I just did almost the exact same install.
I was able to fit my 2 batteries in the original 2 battery boxes.
My batteries have heaters that will bring them to 5 degrees to be able to charge them.
I ran the wires from the batteries in the box to where all the wires from the tongue go into the trailer on the slide out side.
They come up right where the propane line goes into the water heater.
I had to drill a 2” hole and put a plastic grommet in to run the wires up into the water heater compartment.
From there I cut a little hole in the thin wood panelling at the front of the trailer. Behind this is about a 1-2” void between the insulation and the outer skin of the trailer. I fished all the wires from there to the front of the storage compartment where the solar controller is for the juice pack and the little 12v light.
There I installed my 60a Dc-Dc charger for the lithium batteries.
I have not installed the inverter yet but plan to run it the same way and put the plug to plug my trailer into my trailer in a junction box on the tongue of the trailer in a water tight junction box.
Running it this way I found I used the minimum amount of wire and really only had to drill 1 hole to run it all.
To access it I just have to open the storage access door under the bed and it’s right there.
I lost maybe 1 sq ft of storage space.
Under the bed and near the water heater is what i was thinking too. I have to see how it fits with the tankless water heater though. Funny you said the propane line because I was thinking the same thing. It is a great spot for running cables.
There is also some unused space where the side tables are in the bedroom next to the beds. Those little boxes that come out from the closets are hollow.
Great place to put batteries if they don’t fit in your tongue.
I was going to go this route also and put a false bottom of plywood in the closet to conceal them. But ended up being able to fit them in the tongue boxes.
And if I ever needed to get at them I would of had to take out all the clothes that my wife folded and put in there. And we all know what happens when we do that. So decided against it.
Sorry it’s a little late, I have the same rig as yours (26DBH) but a 2022, and it came with 150 watts of solar. I have changed out the tiny controller to a BougRV 40 amp and now run total of 550 watts of solar. I still have the dual lead acid batts for now. I built all the system in the right front storage compartment front wall. It took hardly an room up and have room for the inverter and DC-DCcharger. I want to run 300 AH battery or 3-100 Lipo batteries. I know I’m going to put the batteries in the pass through under the bed. I figure that will take the least room?
I wanted more room in the storage compartment an that's why I went under the bed. It's al preference of the owner. No wrong decision here.
I have a 2021 Cherokee Grey wolf Bunkhouse 26BRB. It is a very similar floorplan to yours. I have a very similar setup to what you are trying to do. I put everything under the bed. My bedroom is not in a slide so I didnt see any reason not to. I reinforced it a little anyway with 3/4 inch plywood. Having everything under there makes for nice short runs. Also a good entry/exit point for your wires etc is right there next to your hot water tank if yours is placed where mine is (Its really helpful to have a thin 15 year old to crawl all the way down that front storage bay). I would just be really careful. Your water tank may be right below your bed. Mine is. You will have to pull down - maybe not off - - all that corrugated underbelly to run cables by the water tank toward the back of the rig. As far as how I set mine up... I added 1/2 plywood to the interior of the bed frame and screwed into that. I also added 3/4 inch plywood on the floor under the bed. For info I have a Victron Multiplus 3000 which takes the place of your inverter and charger. I had the 3000 version of the Renogy you have and a lithium converter, but I got envious of the Multiplus vids I've seen and REALLY wanted the power assist. I have 2 300ah AmpereTime batteries wired in series at 24 volt. Then I step it down with victron's 24 volt to 12 Orion product. I have 1760 Watts of solar on the roof with 400 watts of portable to pick up the morning sun. I have the victron battery monitor, Lynx Distributor, and CerboGX and a few solar charge controllers. I will add some pics when I get home later tonight as long as no one makes fun of my wiring mess :)
Wow. This is one heck of a build. I would have to guess that the limiting factor to boondocking is now your fresh and grey water tank capacities. My bed is in the front of my RV so I do not have to worry about what’s under the belly. My water heater is part of the front storage so no issue there. I would love to see the photos. If possible, can you email me some pics? I would love to share them in an upcoming video and give your name a shout out.
Congratulations, I know you will do a Great Job with this project. I think I can find a small space on my RV, Ha Ha! Keep up the great videos.
Thanks so much!
I have a similar floor plan but not exactly. I was able to take a portion of the pantry next to the breaker and converter box. There was a false wall already there. I took the battery cables that hooked to some mount points by a junction box on the front of the trailer and relocated them to the new batteries. I got a power bus bar for all the cables. Also picked up a Victron smart shunt to monitor the batteries better.
That is a great idea. My thoughts are to work around where the water heater is because I have access to the RV underbelly and space that I can not use for every day storage. I do like the pantry idea for permenant installation of soalr panels on the roof.
Nice video and I look forward to the future build! I recently did a very similar upgrade on out Keystone Outback TT due to replacing the absorption fridge with a Dometic 12v. But I installed a Dc-Dc converter in addition to the victron battery monitor and MPPT solar converter and not the 2k inverter since we have a portable 2k inverter. I went with the small area by my hot water heater and ran all my cables to the original battery connection points. The hard part was having the right cables, cutters, crimpers and crimps. Plus using the right type of circuit breakers sized to the right guage wire. Plus trying to imagine expansion and build that into the setup as well. I like the idea of plugging in the inverter since it may make the wiring less complicated and I looked at that for my portable as a security measure (running the cord inside the trailer but haven’t pursued it yet. Plugging it in maybe easier to wire, but it does take away from an auto-changeover in the event of power failure. Maybe a feature you don’t need. And for those that are interested, The real need for the lithium with a 12v fridge is to have consistent 12v and 15 amperage rather than the lead acid which can increase amperage to maintain 12v as it dissipates (when boondocking or off grid) where as lithiums don’t have that problem. Which can be the real reason people blow their internal fuses on their Furrion and Rec Pro 12v fridges that come from the RV manufacturers (many of those only come with lead-acid). One last thought is to consider the truck alternator by installing a DC-DC charger into the system. Depending on the size of you lithium-( it looks like a 200amp hour) large lithium banks can put a lot of load on the alternator since their resistance is very low and will suck a lot of energy out of your trucks system if a large bank isn’t controlled through a DC-DC system. I just have one 100amp with a small Dc-Dc charger as insurance and a way to help eventually expand the lithium bank. The charger is much cheaper than a new alternator on my 2013 diesel. I did have to run a dedicated line from my truck batteries to the connection point to the DC-Dc. Some people use their outfitter switches if equipped but I felt the wires were too small to handle the charger’s load. Good luck!
Well thought out plan. I have thought about the 12V fridge but was a little reluctant because of the technology being fairly new to the RV industry. I like your thoughts around the DC-DC charger. I will have to dig into that one to see how it fits in what I am trying to accomplish.
From past experience with my previous fifth wheel putting to much weight under the bed not a good idea.
We had to much weight under the bed and letting out the slide the screws holding the bed pulled loose from the slide wall. So until we purchased our current fifth wheel, I would assist the slide by hand while my wife ran the control when extending.
Hope it goes well
Thank you for bringing this up with who ever reads this. It’s a good idea to watch where you are putting all the weight. I will have to add this warning sign into my video coming out in a few weeks. Oh and you get a shout out as well.
Looking forward to the videos! I'm slowly putting together a similar system. I have my inverter in the pass through storage.
I am kinda leaning that direction myself. Thanks for the comment
Hey Jason, not sure I didn’t discover your channel sooner, I came from Jared’s channel. Quick comment on the 30amp plug. Instead of having that 30amp plug on the side of the RV, why not use a transfer switch. It’ll switch between inverter or shore. Shore power would take priority. And when shore is unplugged, it’ll automatically switch to the inverter. Kind of like wiring a generator transfer switch but instead of generator it’ll be inverter, additionally all of this is wired inside where the surge protector is currently at.
Firstly, I was running outside of my budget. The second reason is so that I can show folk alternatives to the comon install. I want to use a autotransfer switch at some point though. For a 30A system, do you have any recomendations on what to buy?
@@HowToRVunderstand, we all have budgets. I used the 50amp transfer switch from powermax, Amazon has the 30 amp for $62 “PowerMax PMTS-30” I’ve used my 50amp over 2+ years and works great. Clean install, looked like factory did the install. I can’t paste links or the message gets deleted. Good luck, looking forward to your build.