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It was going to cost me thousands of dollars to put an inverter system in my trailer. Instead, I bought a 1500w power station with an 80ah battery in it that I have sitting in my main living area. I just use a heavy duty extension cord to power one appliance at a time. It recharges with a 12v charger from my main lithium batteries and solar system. Cost: less than a $1000. And it is also portable. I love it! I live full time in my RV and boon dock 80 percent of the year.
I did this 2 years ago for the exact same reasons. Why spend $2k on Battleborn batteries, $300 on an inverter, put solar panels on your roof, and pay someone to do all the wiring to install a 2kwh battery system? I bought a Bluetti AC200MAX. If we need to use it, I take out the container holding all my sewer connections and slide the Bluetti in the storage compartment right beside all my water hookups. I have a Passport, and this compartment is on the front of my RV. I take my shore power plug and run it into the access where my water hose runs. Since my RV is a 50amp, I doggone down to a 30amp, plug it into the Bluetti, and run the entire RV that way. Like you, I can't run my AC and I have to pay attention to what I'm doing with running multiple appliances, but it works well to keep all my AC plugs working as well as my fridge. I can't use this on the road because it requires my shore cord. I use a small Bluetti while on the road to power the outdoor fridge, so we have cold drinks in transit without keeping a cooler full of ice. I don't recommend the AC200MAX anymore because of the slow AC charging and the power brick. It works fine, and it's expandable, but the AC charge time is over 4 hours, while their newer models are about 1 hour. I think I paid $1700 for mine, and they're now about $1100. I use mine around the farm all the time in places where I don't have power. I can run a chop saw, air compressor, or hammer drill with it. I also can run an 8k BTU window AC for about 3 hours with it to cool down a small storage building if I need it.
Just discover your channel. I had the GD 23BHE but sold it due to problems from Covid build quality issues. I wish I had the 21bhe instead because my slide was a big problem. I like what I see so far. I’m a bit of a geek when it comes to technology and I like the way you did this. I’ve said for a long time that you shouldn’t waste money on permanent lithium unless you’re living in it off grid. Even then it might not make sense. Good content and I look forward to seeing more
That’s a really good application. You did a great job for minimal $$. Personally I put 2 Chins 100 Ah batteries in my unit this year. I have a 1200 watt inverter that I put in 4 years ago with lead-acid batteries and the Chins LiFeP04 batteries replace the lead acid batteries. So including the Victron power shunt, I replaced the converter so it could charge the lithium batteries. You’re fortunate that the wiring was there for you to run the power station from that forward bay. I’ve got about $1300 in my system. I really only use my inverter to power 2 CPAP machines in the bedroom.
@@AdventureRocks would love to figure out how to hookup my Bluetti as my camper didn’t come inverter ready. I wish I could tap the main feed into the camper internally somehow and run that into our front bay of the camper to plug into bluettti.
@@usmcshepherdE9 I hear you. I was thankful that GD ran that loop for me as that would have been tedious to do myself, dropping the underbelly and such.
@usmcshepherdE9 I use my Bluetti AC200L to run my toy hauler wherever and whenever I boondock. I use 2 200W solar panels and a Honda 2000 generator to charge it. Takes less than an hour to charge. I did a few mods for my set up. Too much to list here, but any Power Station and any generator is the perfect set up to run any RV. Perfect because it's portable. I use my set up for dry camping when I do not bring my trailer. I also have a dual zone cooler I use for my drinks and food. Hope this helps. Cheers🍻
Very nice clean setup. I am in the same mindset at the moment I have a 5th wheel and only planning to keep here for the start of my full time run this winter then upgrading. I have been looking at the Delta 3 ultimate rather than installing my Rack batteries and dual inverters ect... to only remove at a later date
That is a great setup. Thanks for sharing. I have done something similar, but sadly my 2019 2250RK was not inverter prepped from factory. I used a Bluetti AC200max and tied it to my 30A system via a transfer switch. The main difference in mine is I also tied into my 12volt system so I can also run everything inside off of the AC200MAX + 1 B230. No need for a separate 12 volt battery even though I keep one as a backup. Powers the slide outs, furnace, fridge, and everything. It already had dedicated braker for the 12v charge converter that I leave locked in a off position so as to not create a power charge loop. I also wired a soft start into my 15K Coleman Mach AC, which allows me to run AC off the 2200 watt AC200Max. The AC200 max can bring in 900 Watts of solar and another 500 with the extra Charge enhancer so there is times I'm Power neutral when running my 1400 watt ac at full blast. I'm now created a dedicated 2nd system as a backup since I already have 200Amps of spare Lithium battery's. Will have it also tied in when done with a 2nd transfer switch so I can bounce between the two systems if the AC200 max every dies or runs low on power. When I sell the Trailer I will take the Bluetti with me and leave the backup as a permeant install. Learning a lot along the way is half the fun. Had my power go out recently at 1:AM and didn't even realize until the morning when I noticed my power rate was lower then normal. Didn't wake up hot like the rest of the park as it was 96 degrees and humid here in Texas. I full time RV so having a happy spouse = happy House. :)
@@AdventureRocks Yes, that 30A SP21 12V plug was what I used. I rarely see mention of using it to tie into 12volt systems outside of Van Build videos, who seem to use it all the time with great results with the ac200max. The newer/better AC200L can do this as well, but you have to buy an extra step down device to get it to 12V . It's DC plug is regulated at a much higher voltage unlike the AC200Max. Next you have to buy or build your own cord since it doesn't come included. I first bought one on Amazon. I would suggest others just make there own since what is out there already is not even 10AWG, but something like 12/14AWG. No one seems to knows why. Seems undersized for a plug stated to be 30A. However, they shipped me the female, when I needed the male aviation end. So I just bought the right aviation plug and solder it on. The cord came with a XT60 end so I used a Male Female Plug XT90 Connector to XT60. Then used a XT90 to 10AWG cord and crimped some MC4 ends. Why you ask?, because I already happen to have an unused extra 10AWG solar line running from where my Bluetti is to where the wires originally connect to the battery box. I mainly was just using what I already happen to have on hand to test this concept out. I plan to do a cleaner build in the future and make my own cord from scratch and run properly. That would avoid all the various connector nonsense lol.
@@lrndspirit5567 I hear you. I would love to see a portable power station offer a higher output DC in the 50-60A 12V range, but that Bluetti is pretty much the highest output I know of right now. It'd be neat to see an all-in-one plug-n-play solution for the RV community that would truly replace the conventional 12V battery and any and all inverter, converter/charger, and transfer switch.
@@AdventureRocks Give it some time and it will eventually happen. I love All-in-1 units, and they are getting cheaper with more features all the time. The only big drawback is if they die it's hard to fix DIY vs a self build system. That is the only reason I created a backup. Now if one component goes bad I can fix myself. It's like magic how much they can cram into such a small space. The plug in play Convenience is worth the consideration along with them being portable. Some units you couldn't build yourself for cheaper now that Lithium has gone down in price.
I have a Bluetti AC200 Max. I totally agree if you are not a full-time/high time RV'er something like this makes a lot of sense. Other than the benefit of shore power being able to automatically charge the power box are there additional benefits? There are lots of power boxes with 30amp connections. I have not done long term testing with my setup. I have a portable solar panel for the Bluetti and just need to see how well it does powering everything. No wiring required. Just plug my shore power cord into the Bluetti and done. Well done on your setup.
Thank you. Great point. The 30A feature on the Bluetti is pretty unique. I'd love to see one in future with 50-80amps 12V DC for medium to larger rigs and then it could literally be a single power source for both AC and DC. Hopefully soon!
When I can spend 3000$ and run my 15000btu air conditioner for two days I'm in. Technology just isn't there yet. Keeping my propane generator. Thanks for the great video!
I have a Reflection with the same inverter prep. I was researching the traditional inverter setup and came across your video. I like this way more. This solves the problem of being able to watch a movie during quiet hours. A must for our special needs kid. Being able to run the Keurig was a perk too. However, going the traditional route I was going to get more battery storage with 2 lithium batteries (vs my 2 L/A batteries). I was originally leaning this way because that would help running the 12V heater through the night. Also important as the same kid will not sleep with covers. My question to you: do you think the 2000 Segway cube would run a trickle charger through the night to get the best of both worlds? Inverter for TV and boost the 12V capacity in a sense? Would running the cube inverter that long cause it to overheat? I’ll be honest, I haven’t looked at the draw of a trickle charger yet or if it would charge fast enough to make a difference. Just curious. 🤔
Thank you. Great question. To start I should clarify on my circuit panel I kept the charger/converter circuit for 12V system on the lower half, so it does not get fed by the Segway. But, if I understand your question you're thinking of doing a slower trickle charge to your 12V batteries. There are three ways I could see doing this...1) The Segway has 2x 13.6 V 5 A 68 W Max barrel style DC plugs on it, which in theory could be used to run a trickle charge lead to your 12V RV batteries. Only problem I could foresee is I don't think those 2x barrel plugs are provisioned for a reverse feed and so I'm not sure if any harm would be caused if it were to backfeed from the RV battery given varying voltages on 12V batteries. Lead acid should be lower voltage compared to a lithium 12V battery and the Segway itself has a 13.6V spec on the barrel plugs, so it may work, but I'm just not 100% sure...might need a diode that only permits 1-way flow. 2) Second options...could use a battery tender device or similar that plugs into AC power from the Segway and then keeps the 12V RV battery topped off...that would be entirely feasible, but of course some may point out the inefficiency of going 120V to 12V. 3) Last angle and this may be preferred...you could install it such that your converter/charger circuit on the 120V panel is on the same inverter return side so that it gets fed by the Segway, and then your entire 12V system and charger would be fed through the Segway...certainly more watts consumed, but nothing the Segway can't handle. Most converter/chargers are in the 400-600W AC range at max consumption...but they throttle down otherwise when demand isn't required. I kinda lean toward option #3...and then you could always just turn off the circuit breaker on the charger/converter if you didn't want it fed by the Segway. Anyway hope I'm making sense and thanks for watching.
@@AdventureRocks thank you for the reply! Yes, I was thinking along the lines of a trickle charger plugged into the AC of the Segway. That seemed like the easiest way to boost the 12V batteries for nights the heater would run a bunch. (Not really that often out here in CA). Thank you for the feedback!
One last question: do you see any reason why the power station wouldn’t work in the under bed storage vs the outside pass though storage? Does the power station inverter have a fan? Thank you
@@benjaminvillines2544 The Segway PowerCube in particular seems to do a superior job on heat management. I've noticed with other power stations I'll hear a fan ramp up fairly quick, but I don't hear that on the Segway. So I'm assuming the fan is ultra quiet and perhaps utilizes more passive cooling with fins and such. Segway probably has all that figured out with all the scooters they do as they typically don't have fans either. Anyway, it's never been warm or hot in the compartment I have it in. I have a temp sensor in there just in case to monitor with alerts. So to answer your question I think it'd be fine under bed. Worst case if you find it gets warm, you could add some kind of passive vent/duct, but I've been very pleased with it.
A power station with a 30 amp output would be much more practical for an rv mfg to set up for then the power station looks just like the 30 amp shorepower to the rv! IMHO
Cool setup and I agree it’s the way to go but do you actually need that transfer switch stuff? That unit advertises ac pass through (waiting for mine to arrive before I can test) so my plan was to change the shore power connection such that it goes straight to the Segway ac input (lower part of your power board) and then connect the rest of the van (upper half of your board) to one of the Segway ac outlet plugs. The Segway should pass through ac if it has shore power and use the inverter if it doesn’t. I would be interested in your thoughts as that was my plan and it would be good to know if that won’t work for some reason before I start fiddling 😅
Great point! You are 100% correct. I could have just skipped the transfer switch altogether as the Segway does have the automatic changeover built-in. However, I did it still mainly for safety and redudancy, but also since technically the upper half of my distribution could pull up to 30A in rare circumstances while on shore power which exceeds the Segway capacity...very rare but it is wired for up to 30A of combined power. Plus, if I sell the RV in future and someone else decides to use it I wanted to make sure it was safe for them regardless of what brand they put in. But, you are indeed 100% correct...as long as you're aware of what you're running, you don't need the transfer switch technically. The changeover on the Segway is so quick it'll even work as a UPC for computer.
@@AdventureRocks thanks heaps for confirming mate, I was hoping that would be the case. I’ll have a crack at setting it up when it [finally] arrives. I have a whole lot fewer gadgets on board and so hopefully will not exceed the Segway rating but I guess I’ll be switching things off if not. Happy travels from NZ 🍺🤙🏼
What are your thoughts on adding another transfer switch for and prewiring for an onboard generator? I can see putting one on a hitch on the rear and having a plug there or having a tongue mounted generator box … your thoughts?!?
Thank you for the tip! I've always been curious about some of the off-brands when it comes to power stations given their more affordable pricepoint. Oftentimes a lot of value for the $$. I'm probably in minority, but I've always been a little reluctant and uncertain about how robust their BMS and safety features are compared to a more well-known brand...not saying they are or aren't safe...I just don't know, so I end up paying more for namebrand like Segway, EcoFlow, or Bluetti for that alleged peace of mind I guess.
Pretty sure that unit has lithium-iron phosphate batteries built into it. Still lithium. It's just an all-in-one unit as in when the unit fails. The whole thing fails. I chose to build from the ground up system learning as I went and I have a pretty good system. If any part fails I can replace just that part. I can also upgrade just individual parts at any time I choose to. I can also place the parts where they fit best because in my small unit I would not have space for that piece of equipment. So I guess it just depends on what your needs are
Great question! Yes, pretty much all modern power stations are lithium based on the battery chemistry. This video is contrasting custom and permenently installed lithium systems vs all-in-one out of the box power stations. The latter is not permanently tied to the RV, meaning you can make use of the power station outside the RV, which is great for weekend warriors that perhaps only use the RV a dozen times a year to have flexibility and use the same power station elsewhere to justify the $$. It is certainly a personal preference though. For some folks it may make more sense to spend the big $$ with all the individual components such as charger/inverter, batts, wiring, etc.
I bought all powers lithium solar generator last month, about 1200 wh, $450, like u said when 1 thing breaks on it the whole thing is garbage. Mine broke in 2 days and I was left in heat camping without fans . Bought a gas generator for 450 which actually runs my rv air conditioner no problem
Mine is a 15K unit, so I think this particular 2,200W model would be undersized a bit. Might be able to get a 13.5K to run, but probably 3000W+ would be best. I plan to do a future video demonstrating both the soft start benefits and run a test on a 3K inverter/powerstation.
Great approach to the problem! Do you happen to know if the Solar input is an MPPT device? I don't see any mention in the manual on their website. What was the next runner-up in your decision? Finally...do you run your microwave from the power station. (sorry if you covered that) Thanks!
That is a great question about the MPPT...I do not know. I don't plan to charge mine through solar at least for now...sorry I couldn't be more help on that one. I also like the EcoFlow Delta 2 Max...that would probably be my #2. Bluetti has some new models out and that'd be my #3. Lots of good options out there. My microwave is hardwired into its own circuit on the RVs distribution panel/circuit breaker, but it is on the upper half that is supplied through the transfer switch. So, it'll run off the power station when no shore power is present. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching.
Great project you've got planned! The diagram shown I had to make from scratch. But, as far as the wiring in my RV, it took me a while to figure it all out. I couldn't locate an official diagram from Grand Design on the inverter prep, but I think it's basically just a loop in their models. Drawing it out really helped me get it all figured out though.
Have you tried a soft-start on your AC? I think the way the AC spikes initially causes a problem for the majority of the mid-larger power stations, sometimes even with a soft-start.
So the power station is going from dc to ac to power the coach, and in your coach at the converter, it's going back to dc to charge your lead acid batteries. Their is a loss there.
@@kd7alt Great question. This setup is actually just supplying 120V AC @ 20A max to half the panel, excluding converter/charger and air conditioner. At 9:12 is a more detailed wiring diagram. My setup is more basic here and works great for a smaller trailer. The DC system is still powered by a separate 12V battery, which is a basic lithium in my case so I am indeed a hypocrite ;) based on the playful title of the video. The challenge is most power stations on the market have limited raw 12V DC output. Bluetti has one up to 30A DC, but really one needs 50-60A or higher to adequately support a typical travel trailer or fifth wheel 12V system. Maybe one day there could be a seamless all in one solution for 12V DC and 120V AC featuring a power station, but but quite there yet. Still I like the flexibility this setup provides and multi-purpose functionality.
How much was that system? I wonder if you calculate the $ per watt hour if it isn’t as cost effective as it may seem. I spliced in 20,480 watt hours into my Rv using 48v batteries and a 6k inverter. The cost was about $6,000. So just under 30 cents a watt. I left everything else stock so if I get a new Rv I will reconnect and take my system to the next rig. I will admit that the minimal installation. Is appealing but the price per watt is just too high at the moment on those systems
Great question! Yes, for off-brand power stations you can get closer to $0.30 per wh, but for name brand power stations like Segway, EcoFlow, Bluetti, etc. it'll be closer to $0.40-0.60 per wh. I may be in minority, but for me personally it's not the cost itself that I get hung-up on, but more the aspect of the $$ is tied up permanently in the RV and then it can't be utilized when the RV isn't in use. For weekend warriors like myself that only use the RV some 30-50 days out of an entire year, I like the idea of having a more versatile power station to use whether for home backup or other portable use-cases. Certainly for folks that full-time in an RV or spend more time using RV then the permanent full-featured lithium install with converter/charger + inverter makes more sense, regardless of the cost.
Did you keep the original 12v battery on the tongue for the DC side? The cube still has solar charging? Lastly, if you hook gas generator to shore power plug, you could provide power to recharge the cube? New at this, just thinking out loud. Thanks for the videos.
Great question. So based on the title of my video I'm probably a hypocrite as I still have a small 100ah lithium battery for 12V DC...just the main fridge and lights essentially. I'd love to see a power station that could literally replace the entire 12V and 120V system combined on an RV, but the problem I've found is most power stations have low output DC...maybe 10A or 20A. Bluetti has a 30A port on their AC200Max, but really you'd need a 60-80A 12V DC port or terminals to make use of a powerstation as a main 12V source on an RV. So that seems to be the biggest limitation. You can use solar on the Segway Power Cube to charge, although it is slow naturally. And, yes you could use an external gas generator to recharge as well. Segway gives option to control/throttle how many amps are used for charging as the AC input is a whopping 1250W max...which can compete with other appliances. The recharging is incredibly fast.
Great question. So far no issues even in the heat of summer. I have a Govee temp sensor in that compartment just in case and no spiking or abnormal temps even when left in the sun and running without AC. I think the size of compartment in contrast to the size of power station helps in my case. Probably could be unique to each RV.
I would LOVE to see a power station with a high output DC port. On the Segway there are only 2x light power DC barrel plugs - 13.6 V 5 A 68 W Max. Bluetti is the only one I know of that has a 30A 12V DC port on it, which is okay for a small van or trailer, but most RVs would require something in the 50-80A range to cover all the 12V use. Here's another video showing the Bluetti in a setup like you described: ua-cam.com/video/PHfbcuK2M80/v-deo.htmlsi=iaqmRNkXTX7ZB4O2&t=513 I really hope one of the mainstream brands such as Segway, EcoFlow, or Bluetti will make a power station with a higher output 50-80A DC as that could mean a single power station for the entire RV both 12V and 120V system. Imagine the versatility. Great thinking.
I have powered my 12 v with the 12 v 10 amp barrel output to the 12 v barrel outlet in the rv. Everything works except the DC portion of the refrigerator. But it’s a 3 way fridge so not much of a loss. I have completely removed the lead acid house batteries.
Nobody puts Lithium Polymer batteries in an RV. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are put in RVs, which are quite safe. That’s likely the same battery chemistry in your power station.
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It was going to cost me thousands of dollars to put an inverter system in my trailer. Instead, I bought a 1500w power station with an 80ah battery in it that I have sitting in my main living area. I just use a heavy duty extension cord to power one appliance at a time. It recharges with a 12v charger from my main lithium batteries and solar system. Cost: less than a $1000. And it is also portable. I love it! I live full time in my RV and boon dock 80 percent of the year.
Great point!
I have to give you props, though I’m in a stealth sedan sitting on 7.2kw using 48v the superior voltage. Full electric conversion to maximize space.
I did this 2 years ago for the exact same reasons. Why spend $2k on Battleborn batteries, $300 on an inverter, put solar panels on your roof, and pay someone to do all the wiring to install a 2kwh battery system?
I bought a Bluetti AC200MAX. If we need to use it, I take out the container holding all my sewer connections and slide the Bluetti in the storage compartment right beside all my water hookups. I have a Passport, and this compartment is on the front of my RV. I take my shore power plug and run it into the access where my water hose runs. Since my RV is a 50amp, I doggone down to a 30amp, plug it into the Bluetti, and run the entire RV that way. Like you, I can't run my AC and I have to pay attention to what I'm doing with running multiple appliances, but it works well to keep all my AC plugs working as well as my fridge.
I can't use this on the road because it requires my shore cord. I use a small Bluetti while on the road to power the outdoor fridge, so we have cold drinks in transit without keeping a cooler full of ice.
I don't recommend the AC200MAX anymore because of the slow AC charging and the power brick. It works fine, and it's expandable, but the AC charge time is over 4 hours, while their newer models are about 1 hour. I think I paid $1700 for mine, and they're now about $1100. I use mine around the farm all the time in places where I don't have power. I can run a chop saw, air compressor, or hammer drill with it. I also can run an 8k BTU window AC for about 3 hours with it to cool down a small storage building if I need it.
Great points! Very budget friendly option you've laid out.
Just discover your channel. I had the GD 23BHE but sold it due to problems from Covid build quality issues. I wish I had the 21bhe instead because my slide was a big problem. I like what I see so far. I’m a bit of a geek when it comes to technology and I like the way you did this. I’ve said for a long time that you shouldn’t waste money on permanent lithium unless you’re living in it off grid. Even then it might not make sense. Good content and I look forward to seeing more
Thank you. I appreiate the feedback. Sorry to hear about the covid build issues.
That’s a really good application. You did a great job for minimal $$. Personally I put 2 Chins 100 Ah batteries in my unit this year. I have a 1200 watt inverter that I put in 4 years ago with lead-acid batteries and the Chins LiFeP04 batteries replace the lead acid batteries. So including the Victron power shunt, I replaced the converter so it could charge the lithium batteries. You’re fortunate that the wiring was there for you to run the power station from that forward bay. I’ve got about $1300 in my system. I really only use my inverter to power 2 CPAP machines in the bedroom.
Thank you, great points. Very economical and practical setup you've got there.
I agree 100% with you on this point…I saw a recent system for a 5th wheel like ours that was $15k+. And as you said it’s part of the RV forever.
Great point.
@@AdventureRocks would love to figure out how to hookup my Bluetti as my camper didn’t come inverter ready. I wish I could tap the main feed into the camper internally somehow and run that into our front bay of the camper to plug into bluettti.
@@usmcshepherdE9 I hear you. I was thankful that GD ran that loop for me as that would have been tedious to do myself, dropping the underbelly and such.
@usmcshepherdE9 I use my Bluetti AC200L to run my toy hauler wherever and whenever I boondock. I use 2 200W solar panels and a Honda 2000 generator to charge it. Takes less than an hour to charge. I did a few mods for my set up. Too much to list here, but any Power Station and any generator is the perfect set up to run any RV. Perfect because it's portable. I use my set up for dry camping when I do not bring my trailer. I also have a dual zone cooler I use for my drinks and food. Hope this helps. Cheers🍻
Very nice clean setup. I am in the same mindset at the moment I have a 5th wheel and only planning to keep here for the start of my full time run this winter then upgrading. I have been looking at the Delta 3 ultimate rather than installing my Rack batteries and dual inverters ect... to only remove at a later date
Thank you. Delta 3 Ult looks pretty sweet.
That is a great setup. Thanks for sharing.
I have done something similar, but sadly my 2019 2250RK was not inverter prepped from factory. I used a Bluetti AC200max and tied it to my 30A system via a transfer switch. The main difference in mine is I also tied into my 12volt system so I can also run everything inside off of the AC200MAX + 1 B230. No need for a separate 12 volt battery even though I keep one as a backup. Powers the slide outs, furnace, fridge, and everything. It already had dedicated braker for the 12v charge converter that I leave locked in a off position so as to not create a power charge loop. I also wired a soft start into my 15K Coleman Mach AC, which allows me to run AC off the 2200 watt AC200Max. The AC200 max can bring in 900 Watts of solar and another 500 with the extra Charge enhancer so there is times I'm Power neutral when running my 1400 watt ac at full blast.
I'm now created a dedicated 2nd system as a backup since I already have 200Amps of spare Lithium battery's. Will have it also tied in when done with a 2nd transfer switch so I can bounce between the two systems if the AC200 max every dies or runs low on power. When I sell the Trailer I will take the Bluetti with me and leave the backup as a permeant install. Learning a lot along the way is half the fun. Had my power go out recently at 1:AM and didn't even realize until the morning when I noticed my power rate was lower then normal. Didn't wake up hot like the rest of the park as it was 96 degrees and humid here in Texas. I full time RV so having a happy spouse = happy House. :)
Great point, very interesting. Did you use the 12V 30A SP21 output on the Bluetti or something else to feed your 12V?
@@AdventureRocks Yes, that 30A SP21 12V plug was what I used. I rarely see mention of using it to tie into 12volt systems outside of Van Build videos, who seem to use it all the time with great results with the ac200max. The newer/better AC200L can do this as well, but you have to buy an extra step down device to get it to 12V . It's DC plug is regulated at a much higher voltage unlike the AC200Max.
Next you have to buy or build your own cord since it doesn't come included. I first bought one on Amazon. I would suggest others just make there own since what is out there already is not even 10AWG, but something like 12/14AWG. No one seems to knows why. Seems undersized for a plug stated to be 30A.
However, they shipped me the female, when I needed the male aviation end. So I just bought the right aviation plug and solder it on. The cord came with a XT60 end so I used a Male Female Plug XT90 Connector to XT60. Then used a XT90 to 10AWG cord and crimped some MC4 ends. Why you ask?, because I already happen to have an unused extra 10AWG solar line running from where my Bluetti is to where the wires originally connect to the battery box. I mainly was just using what I already happen to have on hand to test this concept out. I plan to do a cleaner build in the future and make my own cord from scratch and run properly. That would avoid all the various connector nonsense lol.
@@lrndspirit5567 I hear you. I would love to see a portable power station offer a higher output DC in the 50-60A 12V range, but that Bluetti is pretty much the highest output I know of right now. It'd be neat to see an all-in-one plug-n-play solution for the RV community that would truly replace the conventional 12V battery and any and all inverter, converter/charger, and transfer switch.
@@AdventureRocks Give it some time and it will eventually happen. I love All-in-1 units, and they are getting cheaper with more features all the time. The only big drawback is if they die it's hard to fix DIY vs a self build system. That is the only reason I created a backup. Now if one component goes bad I can fix myself. It's like magic how much they can cram into such a small space. The plug in play Convenience is worth the consideration along with them being portable. Some units you couldn't build yourself for cheaper now that Lithium has gone down in price.
I have a Bluetti AC200 Max. I totally agree if you are not a full-time/high time RV'er something like this makes a lot of sense. Other than the benefit of shore power being able to automatically charge the power box are there additional benefits? There are lots of power boxes with 30amp connections. I have not done long term testing with my setup. I have a portable solar panel for the Bluetti and just need to see how well it does powering everything. No wiring required. Just plug my shore power cord into the Bluetti and done. Well done on your setup.
Thank you. Great point. The 30A feature on the Bluetti is pretty unique. I'd love to see one in future with 50-80amps 12V DC for medium to larger rigs and then it could literally be a single power source for both AC and DC. Hopefully soon!
When I can spend 3000$ and run my 15000btu air conditioner for two days I'm in. Technology just isn't there yet. Keeping my propane generator. Thanks for the great video!
Great point, thank you. It'll be interesting to see where this tech is in a few more years of development.
Everything but the AC... Florida folks have left the chat.
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I think your on to something here..plus it make sense
Thank you
I have a Reflection with the same inverter prep. I was researching the traditional inverter setup and came across your video. I like this way more. This solves the problem of being able to watch a movie during quiet hours. A must for our special needs kid. Being able to run the Keurig was a perk too.
However, going the traditional route I was going to get more battery storage with 2 lithium batteries (vs my 2 L/A batteries). I was originally leaning this way because that would help running the 12V heater through the night. Also important as the same kid will not sleep with covers.
My question to you: do you think the 2000 Segway cube would run a trickle charger through the night to get the best of both worlds? Inverter for TV and boost the 12V capacity in a sense? Would running the cube inverter that long cause it to overheat? I’ll be honest, I haven’t looked at the draw of a trickle charger yet or if it would charge fast enough to make a difference. Just curious. 🤔
Thank you. Great question. To start I should clarify on my circuit panel I kept the charger/converter circuit for 12V system on the lower half, so it does not get fed by the Segway. But, if I understand your question you're thinking of doing a slower trickle charge to your 12V batteries. There are three ways I could see doing this...1) The Segway has 2x 13.6 V 5 A 68 W Max barrel style DC plugs on it, which in theory could be used to run a trickle charge lead to your 12V RV batteries. Only problem I could foresee is I don't think those 2x barrel plugs are provisioned for a reverse feed and so I'm not sure if any harm would be caused if it were to backfeed from the RV battery given varying voltages on 12V batteries. Lead acid should be lower voltage compared to a lithium 12V battery and the Segway itself has a 13.6V spec on the barrel plugs, so it may work, but I'm just not 100% sure...might need a diode that only permits 1-way flow. 2) Second options...could use a battery tender device or similar that plugs into AC power from the Segway and then keeps the 12V RV battery topped off...that would be entirely feasible, but of course some may point out the inefficiency of going 120V to 12V. 3) Last angle and this may be preferred...you could install it such that your converter/charger circuit on the 120V panel is on the same inverter return side so that it gets fed by the Segway, and then your entire 12V system and charger would be fed through the Segway...certainly more watts consumed, but nothing the Segway can't handle. Most converter/chargers are in the 400-600W AC range at max consumption...but they throttle down otherwise when demand isn't required. I kinda lean toward option #3...and then you could always just turn off the circuit breaker on the charger/converter if you didn't want it fed by the Segway. Anyway hope I'm making sense and thanks for watching.
@@AdventureRocks thank you for the reply! Yes, I was thinking along the lines of a trickle charger plugged into the AC of the Segway. That seemed like the easiest way to boost the 12V batteries for nights the heater would run a bunch. (Not really that often out here in CA). Thank you for the feedback!
One last question: do you see any reason why the power station wouldn’t work in the under bed storage vs the outside pass though storage? Does the power station inverter have a fan? Thank you
@@benjaminvillines2544 The Segway PowerCube in particular seems to do a superior job on heat management. I've noticed with other power stations I'll hear a fan ramp up fairly quick, but I don't hear that on the Segway. So I'm assuming the fan is ultra quiet and perhaps utilizes more passive cooling with fins and such. Segway probably has all that figured out with all the scooters they do as they typically don't have fans either. Anyway, it's never been warm or hot in the compartment I have it in. I have a temp sensor in there just in case to monitor with alerts. So to answer your question I think it'd be fine under bed. Worst case if you find it gets warm, you could add some kind of passive vent/duct, but I've been very pleased with it.
@@AdventureRocks Thank you for the info!
A power station with a 30 amp output would be much more practical for an rv mfg to set up for then the power station looks just like the 30 amp shorepower to the rv! IMHO
Great point, that'd be a game changer
Cool setup and I agree it’s the way to go but do you actually need that transfer switch stuff? That unit advertises ac pass through (waiting for mine to arrive before I can test) so my plan was to change the shore power connection such that it goes straight to the Segway ac input (lower part of your power board) and then connect the rest of the van (upper half of your board) to one of the Segway ac outlet plugs. The Segway should pass through ac if it has shore power and use the inverter if it doesn’t. I would be interested in your thoughts as that was my plan and it would be good to know if that won’t work for some reason before I start fiddling 😅
Great point! You are 100% correct. I could have just skipped the transfer switch altogether as the Segway does have the automatic changeover built-in. However, I did it still mainly for safety and redudancy, but also since technically the upper half of my distribution could pull up to 30A in rare circumstances while on shore power which exceeds the Segway capacity...very rare but it is wired for up to 30A of combined power. Plus, if I sell the RV in future and someone else decides to use it I wanted to make sure it was safe for them regardless of what brand they put in. But, you are indeed 100% correct...as long as you're aware of what you're running, you don't need the transfer switch technically. The changeover on the Segway is so quick it'll even work as a UPC for computer.
@@AdventureRocks thanks heaps for confirming mate, I was hoping that would be the case. I’ll have a crack at setting it up when it [finally] arrives. I have a whole lot fewer gadgets on board and so hopefully will not exceed the Segway rating but I guess I’ll be switching things off if not. Happy travels from NZ 🍺🤙🏼
Great job! Great advice!
@@DougBernitt thank you
What are your thoughts on adding another transfer switch for and prewiring for an onboard generator?
I can see putting one on a hitch on the rear and having a plug there or having a tongue mounted generator box … your thoughts?!?
Great question. I've never tried a 2nd transfer switch myself, but the flexibility could be handy.
Thank you for sharing
Thank you, appreciate the feedback
Pecron 2000flp. But Pecron has a new 3600 power station for 1600.
Thank you for the tip! I've always been curious about some of the off-brands when it comes to power stations given their more affordable pricepoint. Oftentimes a lot of value for the $$. I'm probably in minority, but I've always been a little reluctant and uncertain about how robust their BMS and safety features are compared to a more well-known brand...not saying they are or aren't safe...I just don't know, so I end up paying more for namebrand like Segway, EcoFlow, or Bluetti for that alleged peace of mind I guess.
Pretty sure that unit has lithium-iron phosphate batteries built into it. Still lithium. It's just an all-in-one unit as in when the unit fails. The whole thing fails. I chose to build from the ground up system learning as I went and I have a pretty good system. If any part fails I can replace just that part. I can also upgrade just individual parts at any time I choose to. I can also place the parts where they fit best because in my small unit I would not have space for that piece of equipment. So I guess it just depends on what your needs are
Great question! Yes, pretty much all modern power stations are lithium based on the battery chemistry. This video is contrasting custom and permenently installed lithium systems vs all-in-one out of the box power stations. The latter is not permanently tied to the RV, meaning you can make use of the power station outside the RV, which is great for weekend warriors that perhaps only use the RV a dozen times a year to have flexibility and use the same power station elsewhere to justify the $$. It is certainly a personal preference though. For some folks it may make more sense to spend the big $$ with all the individual components such as charger/inverter, batts, wiring, etc.
I bought all powers lithium solar generator last month, about 1200 wh, $450, like u said when 1 thing breaks on it the whole thing is garbage. Mine broke in 2 days and I was left in heat camping without fans . Bought a gas generator for 450 which actually runs my rv air conditioner no problem
i would stick with multiplus2 system with 4 wheels under the cart..... a bit of diy batteries destroyed big cost
So if you get a soft start for your AC you will be able to run it with what you have
Mine is a 15K unit, so I think this particular 2,200W model would be undersized a bit. Might be able to get a 13.5K to run, but probably 3000W+ would be best. I plan to do a future video demonstrating both the soft start benefits and run a test on a 3K inverter/powerstation.
Great approach to the problem! Do you happen to know if the Solar input is an MPPT device? I don't see any mention in the manual on their website. What was the next runner-up in your decision? Finally...do you run your microwave from the power station. (sorry if you covered that) Thanks!
That is a great question about the MPPT...I do not know. I don't plan to charge mine through solar at least for now...sorry I couldn't be more help on that one. I also like the EcoFlow Delta 2 Max...that would probably be my #2. Bluetti has some new models out and that'd be my #3. Lots of good options out there. My microwave is hardwired into its own circuit on the RVs distribution panel/circuit breaker, but it is on the upper half that is supplied through the transfer switch. So, it'll run off the power station when no shore power is present. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching.
Where'd you get the wiring info as to what's where? Getting ready to wire in a 5k Bluetti setup (which will run AC).
Great project you've got planned! The diagram shown I had to make from scratch. But, as far as the wiring in my RV, it took me a while to figure it all out. I couldn't locate an official diagram from Grand Design on the inverter prep, but I think it's basically just a loop in their models. Drawing it out really helped me get it all figured out though.
Which power station could run the AC unit? Even my ecoflow DP won't run the AC unit and it's 13500 BTU.
Have you tried a soft-start on your AC? I think the way the AC spikes initially causes a problem for the majority of the mid-larger power stations, sometimes even with a soft-start.
So the power station is going from dc to ac to power the coach, and in your coach at the converter, it's going back to dc to charge your lead acid batteries. Their is a loss there.
@@kd7alt Great question. This setup is actually just supplying 120V AC @ 20A max to half the panel, excluding converter/charger and air conditioner. At 9:12 is a more detailed wiring diagram. My setup is more basic here and works great for a smaller trailer. The DC system is still powered by a separate 12V battery, which is a basic lithium in my case so I am indeed a hypocrite ;) based on the playful title of the video. The challenge is most power stations on the market have limited raw 12V DC output. Bluetti has one up to 30A DC, but really one needs 50-60A or higher to adequately support a typical travel trailer or fifth wheel 12V system. Maybe one day there could be a seamless all in one solution for 12V DC and 120V AC featuring a power station, but but quite there yet. Still I like the flexibility this setup provides and multi-purpose functionality.
How much was that system? I wonder if you calculate the $ per watt hour if it isn’t as cost effective as it may seem.
I spliced in 20,480 watt hours into my Rv using 48v batteries and a 6k inverter. The cost was about $6,000. So just under 30 cents a watt. I left everything else stock so if I get a new Rv I will reconnect and take my system to the next rig.
I will admit that the minimal installation. Is appealing but the price per watt is just too high at the moment on those systems
Great question! Yes, for off-brand power stations you can get closer to $0.30 per wh, but for name brand power stations like Segway, EcoFlow, Bluetti, etc. it'll be closer to $0.40-0.60 per wh. I may be in minority, but for me personally it's not the cost itself that I get hung-up on, but more the aspect of the $$ is tied up permanently in the RV and then it can't be utilized when the RV isn't in use. For weekend warriors like myself that only use the RV some 30-50 days out of an entire year, I like the idea of having a more versatile power station to use whether for home backup or other portable use-cases. Certainly for folks that full-time in an RV or spend more time using RV then the permanent full-featured lithium install with converter/charger + inverter makes more sense, regardless of the cost.
Did you keep the original 12v battery on the tongue for the DC side? The cube still has solar charging? Lastly, if you hook gas generator to shore power plug, you could provide power to recharge the cube?
New at this, just thinking out loud. Thanks for the videos.
Great question. So based on the title of my video I'm probably a hypocrite as I still have a small 100ah lithium battery for 12V DC...just the main fridge and lights essentially. I'd love to see a power station that could literally replace the entire 12V and 120V system combined on an RV, but the problem I've found is most power stations have low output DC...maybe 10A or 20A. Bluetti has a 30A port on their AC200Max, but really you'd need a 60-80A 12V DC port or terminals to make use of a powerstation as a main 12V source on an RV. So that seems to be the biggest limitation.
You can use solar on the Segway Power Cube to charge, although it is slow naturally. And, yes you could use an external gas generator to recharge as well. Segway gives option to control/throttle how many amps are used for charging as the AC input is a whopping 1250W max...which can compete with other appliances. The recharging is incredibly fast.
What about heat buildup in that compartment?
Great question. So far no issues even in the heat of summer. I have a Govee temp sensor in that compartment just in case and no spiking or abnormal temps even when left in the sun and running without AC. I think the size of compartment in contrast to the size of power station helps in my case. Probably could be unique to each RV.
Does it have 12v output for connecting a 12v fuse box for electrical systems?
I would LOVE to see a power station with a high output DC port. On the Segway there are only 2x light power DC barrel plugs - 13.6 V 5 A 68 W Max. Bluetti is the only one I know of that has a 30A 12V DC port on it, which is okay for a small van or trailer, but most RVs would require something in the 50-80A range to cover all the 12V use. Here's another video showing the Bluetti in a setup like you described:
ua-cam.com/video/PHfbcuK2M80/v-deo.htmlsi=iaqmRNkXTX7ZB4O2&t=513
I really hope one of the mainstream brands such as Segway, EcoFlow, or Bluetti will make a power station with a higher output 50-80A DC as that could mean a single power station for the entire RV both 12V and 120V system. Imagine the versatility. Great thinking.
@@AdventureRocks damn, i was hoping that these power stations were more rv-compatible. Maybe going custom is the way to go after all.
@@cotinborgund4223 I hear you. I really hope to see manufacturers add that high output DC feature in future.
I have powered my 12 v with the 12 v 10 amp barrel output to the 12 v barrel outlet in the rv. Everything works except the DC portion of the refrigerator. But it’s a 3 way fridge so not much of a loss. I have completely removed the lead acid house batteries.
Lithium batteries can be explosive. They can cause a fire destroying your RV. I prefer using lead acid deep cycle batteries.
Nobody puts Lithium Polymer batteries in an RV. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are put in RVs, which are quite safe. That’s likely the same battery chemistry in your power station.