Installing fuel injectors Dodge 5.2L 5.9L motor. injectors(linked below) get more MPG!
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- Опубліковано 29 кві 2020
- $64.00 half inch eBay impact wrench for automotive repair.
ebay.us/kBGo4x
$38.90 A WHOLE SET of 8 Bosch Fuel Injectors WITH A ONE YEAR WARRANTY!
ebay.us/UJQNCv
$47.99 THIS IS SET OF 8 FUEL INJECTORS comes with a LIFETIME WARRANTY!
ebay.us/gqATtl
$90.99 #1 OEM Bosch set of eight Upgrade fuel injectors.
ebay.us/k8qXCN
12-piece flexible head ratchet wrench set
here are some links of the cheaper sets I could find on eBay.
$35.99 with free shipping
ebay.us/yiNp0u
$37.99 with free shipping
ebay.us/N97UMf
Here's one of the cheapest air intakes as well if you want to do that mod while you're in there.
$89.99 ebay.us/49EVN0
fuel line disconnecting tool set
$6.99 ebay.us/ydHkhT
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Just a heads up, some engines may need to be tuned. But before you take it to a professional shop you may even want to try this cheap tuner amzn.to/3luqmc3
and it does have high reviews and three and a half Stars, although I technically have not tried it for myself yet.
Great video. Very calm and good explaning
Thanks for the video! Appreciate the help. 03 Dakota R/T
Just what i was looking for thank sir
You're welcome glad I could.
Great video Steve!!
Thanks Michael for your comment!
Trying to help some people out by saving them a trip to the shop.
Thanks Stephen. I have a 98 Ram 5.9 Liter with 137,000 miles. She's been a decent truck thru the years. I think a squirrel must have chewed thru the crossover fuel line on the injector rail. Started the truck this morning and had fuel spraying all over the place under the hood. Had the truck running for about 3 minutes before I lifted the hood and figured out where the smell was coming from. Made for a few exciting minutes to see if the darn thing was going to blow itself up!! Your video helped me get the old rail and injectors off. I did find some 4 port injectors to replace the stock injectors on Amazon but can't find a replacement rail with a crossover line on Amazon. A new injector rail with crossover seems to be 400 to 500 bucks. I am not interested in paying this much so time to search elsewhere. I don't see any way to just replace the crossover line. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I recently bought some new spark plugs and wires so this may be a good time to replace these as well since I got my body up in the engine compartment!
Sorry to hear about the crossover line.
If I was you, I probably just replace the crossover line with a piece of fuel line.
If you had it off I'll bring it in to a auto parts store and let him measure the metal nipples I think hard plastic line is pushed onto and see if they had a fuel line close to that size.
If they did African all the old fuel line off measure the old fuel line plus a little extra and push it all the way down to the fuel rail on those nipples.
I'd even try to get it to go over top of that little metal piece that the original line but it up against then I put a clamp on both sides of that raised area on each side.
Then I would go back and install it, and if you want to play it safe you can even get some of that plastic wire insulator and put around the pipe so we couldn't run it to you or get too hot.
A piece of fuel line would probably cost you about three to four dollars
And you might even want to leave the original plastic fuel line on the metal nipple to make up the size difference can you could just push the new fuel line right over top of the hard plastic.
I hope this helps, malaika tell everybody you whatever you feel is the best and safest.
Good luck and God bless.
@@stephengoad3091 Stephen, thanks for the suggestion. Once I had the injection rail and crossover off the vehicle I took it to my local auto parts store (O'Reilly's) and in just a few minutes we had the old plastic/rubber crossover line cut off and a new fuel line with clamps installed. The new fuel line fit nice and snug over the nipples from the rails and the clamps will make sure they never come off. Total cost: $8.72. I like.... I intend on wrapping the new fuel line with some aluminum air conditioning tape to make it less attractive for the squirrels to repeat chewing thru the line. I do have some new fuel injectors due to arrive today so I plan on also upgrading from one port nozzles to four port nozzles on the injectors as well while I have it all apart. Of course, this is also leading me to replace the spark plugs and wires while I already have lots of wiring out of the way. Every time I do one project it turns into three. I know I am not the only one, eh?
Yeah I too start projects and seemed like five other things pop up before I'm done.
Also about wrapping it with the tin foil tape just be careful some of those adhesives will disintegrate rubber or swell it up.
But I'm happy to hear that the cost was low and it sounds like you should be able to get it back on the road soon.
Also a heads up when you change out the fuel injectors to the bigger injectors it will probably not run right for a while.
You'll probably have to have the battery cable off while you're changing the injectors so once you plug it all back up it'll probably be a little hard to get it to crank and idle.
Once you have it idling let it sit for about 10 minutes or so to let the computer relearn the fuel mixture.
Then take it for about a 15 to 20 minute drive if everything looks.
It's good if you can get it at a constant speed for several minutes to let the computers analyze the fuel mixture at partial throttle if your truck has cruise control that's the best way.
Well I hope everything goes easily, or at least not too many problems pop up 😂
@@stephengoad3091 thanks so much for the too about the computer. I had no idea that it would relearn the fuel mixture. I do recall from your video that you took both cables off the battery and connected them together to clear any codes. I also never heard of this before. And you cycled the key on and off about 6 times before you started it. Was this just to repressurize the fuel lines?
Yeah it's just to prime the system and get all the air out of the lines.
There's also a thing about turning the headlight switch on and off you might want to go ahead and do it but I'm not sure if it actually does anything.
Thanks. Detailed nicely for replacement. The passenger side was a bitch with the cables in the way. Wanted to like your video and let you know it help my daughter and I. 2000 Sport 1500 5.9
I appreciate the 👍
thank you happy to hear I was able to help.
Where can you get that piece of plastic clip to remove that fuel line?
This was helpful, thank you!!
You're welcome, I'm happy to know that I'm helping somebody out.
Thanks for the tutorial! I have a 1997 1500 and it shudders and vibrates when excelerating to quickly at highway speed, and it shudders real bad accelerating uphill.
I hope replacing the injectors solves my issue.
Also you might want to check your map sensor and your idle control valve those two things can cause similar symptoms.
@stephengoad3091 OK, I can look into that once I get the new injectors in. I dont know very much about truck mechanics, so I appreciate your help!
My truck jerks when I accelerate, changed wires, plugs, rotor and cap and new coil, more power but still jerks, getting ready to try this and hope that's what it is, thanks for the video
Yeah I hope this will help but if not this is something else you might want to try.
Is your truck an automatic for starters?
If it is it could be the transmission valve cable out of adjustment.
With the vehicle in park or neutral ENGINE RUNNING step on the gas does it still jerk or accelerate normal.
If it accelerates normal it may be something to do with the transmission.
If it does jerk on regular acceleration without it being in gear it could be either your idle air control valve your throttle sensor or your O2 sensors.
That is some of the main culprits on these older generation Dodge and Jeep engines for a lag or jerky throttle.
If you haven't replaced any of these yet I would start with a new idle air control valve, if that doesn't fix it I'd also try a new throttle position sensor next.
Also before you change out any O2 sensors I would have the truck scanned for any engine fault codes.
These engines were some of the earlier model computer controlled engines and the computer wasn't extremely smart so it takes a lot to set a code on these engines usually.
But sometimes a fault code will be stored in the computer without setting the check engine light.
The only reason I mentioned this is if you have to buy O2 sensors without knowing if they are good or bad you may be throwing hundreds of dollars away for new O2 sensors which you did not need.
The other sensors run somewhere between $20 to $60 depending on what brand you get.
If you want to try that transmission valve adjustment( if yours is an automatic) search for transmission valve cable adjustment on a Dodge ram pickup truck.
but be very careful with the plastic cable hold down clamp when you are prying it off, they attend to break very easily one thing that helps is to make sure it's either warm that day or to have the engine running for a while to warm the engine compartment up if it's a cold day.
If you need any other assistance I will try to help, have a good day and good luck with these new injectors.
And did you see the links for all the injector sets I had picked out in the description under this video?
@@stephengoad3091 thank you very much for taking the time, that gives me other options because this has had me running in circles, thanks again
You're welcome I hope whatever these will fix that problem.
At least the injector should make it run a little smoother and improve gas mileage slightly.
@@sickofliberals9403 was it the injectors for you? I had the pump changed too and all the plugs wires cap and rotor was changed too before I got this truck
My 5.9 did the same thing, after lots effort I found out for me it was my governor pressure solenoid located in the transmission pan. Was starting out in 2nd gear from a dead stop would jerk and slam into gear or spin tires from dead stop. Once replaced with new tranny filter and fluid it solved my problem. While your in your pan adjust your band clamps should be adjust every tranny service
Yo nice video, very helpful. Where do I get an air intake like that?
I actually made it out of the original air box lower piece that has the clamp to fasten to the throttle body.
After I cut that piece off leaving about 2 in on the back and about a half inch on the front I got me some thin wall 4-in pipe from Lowe's and 1-90° elbow then I bought one 4 inch
Air filter off eBay for about 12 bucks.
And the fashion the softball pipe onto the existing clampdown piece I used a heat gun to deform the 4-in pipe the 90° elbow where it would fit inside the black plastic piece and then drilled 5 holes and used pop rivets to hold it on and then used high temperature gasket formula to fill the cracks around the pieces of plastic on the outside just make sure that you get gasket maker that doesn't interfere with sensors.
After that let it set up and installed it.
One of the main things to do when doing this sure you have the 9° elbow pointed where you want it while latching down the black piece onto the throttle body since it only latches down in one spot and take your 90° elbow and find the correct angle of attack you like.
Once you find that Mark the two pieces to be joined, just make sure you don't do anything on the truck did to stuff likely dropping into the manifold.
Also make sure that your filter fits over does it over your 4-in pipe and then you can cut it to any length you want online I only use about 6 in because about 4in is used up by the coupling 90 in the filter.
All in it probably cost me about 20 bucks but I already have the gasket maker which is about $6 to 7 dollars.
You can go on eBay or Amazon and find a kit that bolts directly down onto v6s or the V8.
Here is a link to one on eBay for $80 www.ebay.com/itm/311452799295
Well I hope I was some help, just let me know if you try this.
Also it may be a good idea to go to a junkyard and buy a second hand air box to make this out of just in case things don't go right.
You wouldn't happen to know the part number for the 4 hole injectors? If so how did they workout as far as performance? Thanks in advance!
No I do not know the part number sorry I bought some aftermarkets off eBay I believe I paid between 60 to $70 for the full set which was pretty cheap had a year or two warranty on them.
About performance I can feel probably one or two more horsepower out of them but I wasn't unbelievable power gain.
If I was going to do this right I probably would have ended up paying about $150 for a good set of injectors, along with bringing my truck to a programmer and having the truck tend to really get the gain of the new injectors.
Although you could buy a program online and do some of the modifications yourself to the engine.
@@stephengoad3091 i just got this set of injectors for my 98 318. How are they treating you now?
Treating me pretty well still getting better gas mileage than my original injectors.
Just don't expect an extreme MPG increase maybe somewhere around one mile a gallon more or less.
You can increase that by getting a tuner that will increase the injectors efficiency.
Although a tuner for the Jeep and Dodge's runs about 200 to $300 unless you can find one somebody's already used on their vehicle.
Yeah I don't have any really complaints about these just remember when I said about after installation crank the vehicle and let it idle for several minutes, make sure everything is running normally at idle and no leaks are present, then take it for a drive for about 10 the 20 minutes around the house, just in case.
This will allow the ECU to get used to the new fuel behavior of the injectors, also on the drive don't go over the speed limit and easy on and off the throttle will help the computer learn faster.
Also during the new injector install if you haven't changed your air filter recently I recommend doing so so you get the best aired a fuel ratio for the ECU.
Hope the install goes easy and happy driving.
Greetings what did you use to mod for the intake? Great job btw!
3 inch softwall drain pipe 90 from Lowe's, and some gasket maker.
Cut off my original air intake ring that hooks to the throttle body then heated up the 3inch 90 and molded it to the inside of the intake ring I cut off then secured it with 3 pop rivets.
Then I bot a 3in cone filter from eBay.
Replacing the injectors would fix black smoke coming out of tail pipe ?
assuming there are not any vacuum air leaks ?
It is a possibility if you have a leaking injector.
The other things that could be is a bad valve seal but that's usually a bluish white smoke, and usually only at startup.
The other easy fix for black smoke out the tailpipe is your PVC valve which is stuck into your valve cover with a requirement.
If you haven't replaced it for several years you might want to try that and see if that's your problem, PVC file usually only cost somewhere between 8 to $13.
Would doing this possibly help with gas mileage? I have a '99 ram 1500 with a 5.9 magnum that's 2wd, and I get Averagely 6-8 city and 8-12 highway. With these gas prices and having to drive 40 miles a day to work and back is really hurting my pockets
If they've never been changed to a four-hole injector then yes it is possible it could pick up your gas mileage but not significantly.
You might see it bring it from 8 MI City to maybe a 10 with a decent set of fuel injectors Bosch is what I recommend going with, that have been flown matched.
Has it had any tune-ups recently, if not would recommend new spark plugs wires rotary cap and rotary button.
These Magnum engines are known for eating up rotary caps and rotary buttons they usually have to be replaced every few 20,000 to 30,000 miles.
Also you might want to check your map sensor, map stands for manifold air pressure.
You can find it on the front of your throttle body connected with 2 screws one electronic connection and underneath there should be a vacuum line at hooked up to the throttle body if this goes bad it can cause bad gas mileage and erratic performance issues.
If you have the automatic transmission you might want to look up the TV cable adjustment video on UA-cam.
The TV cable stands for transmission valve body cable it hooks up to your throttle body and tells your transmission when to shift to different gears it regulates pressure in the valve body of your transmission this could also help Your gas mileage if it's out of adjustment.
Hope this helped.
If you have any questions or comments just put them in the description box below and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.
You're welcome
Where did you get that short air intake I have a K&N cold air intake and it gets wet every time it rains because its by the wheel well.
Well I made it with a piece of soft wall PVC 4-in pipe and the throttle body air intake bracket from the original air box and a 90° pipe piece.
I did have to heat up the soft wall pipe where it joins to the factory bracket to mold it to the original plastic and then I used three or four pop rivets and some special silicone.
It seems to work pretty well cuz I've even tried forced air intakes and even those don't seem to get as good of mileage.
The one thing it could use though is an air dam to stop the air from passing by it on the back side.
That would increase the pressure and make it flow into the engine a little easier.
Does that big filter make the truck run better?I have the 2001, 5.2L, idk trans type as I can't find the plate everyone says it's on.( even though that doesn't matter for this air issue) and it's got the air housing that runs into the fender.
It may help a little bit mostly I put it on so I never have to buy another filter.
I can just take this one off wash it off with a hose and some soap let it dry for a few hours put it right back on and get around another 10,000 out of it before cleaning.
You could call it a lifetime filter.
Any other questions you want to ask?
eBay sells a complete photon kit I think it's around $80 to $90, I made this one myself out of some PVC pipe and the flange that clamps onto the throttle body.
Is your ram two or 4wd?!
4WD
@@richardbates2367
Hi, nice vid. Could you recommend a set of injectors for my 2000 ram 1500 5.2L pickup. I'm getting alot of mixed results and reviews on google. I just want to make sure I get the right ones. Thanks
World's biggest single be make sure you get the one with the right connector on them.
It should be the older style with the square plug.
The newer style will have an oval-shaped plug
Probably the best and cheapest set would be a remanufactured Bosch set.
The cheapest ones would be a set of aftermarket ones of eBay or Amazon.
If you go back to the video in the description the should be a link to a few sets if they're still available, but even if they aren't usually those who use similar items for sale.
Definitely go for a 4-hole nozzle injector.
These are supposed to atomize the fuel better and get you a better bang for your buck.
Well I hope this helped, before I ordered them though I would go and check my vehicles plug and make sure they are the right plug in on the vehicle wiring harness.
Good luck this head video helps.
If you could please give it a thumbs up and consider subscribing thank you.
Sorry for wrong words autocorrect kicked in.
@@stephengoad3091 Thanks for the info
How did make out with aspirated injectors over factory one's ,does run better or seem starves for gas old injectors ??
My truck runs about the same.
Can tell that these injectors give a little more fuel.
Between idol to 1500 it runs a little rich but after that everything's pretty normal and it feels like you picked up a little horsepower on the.
Gas mileage with from 11.8 before tube out 12.2 after install.
Probably mostly from 4-hole injection better misting.
I really wish I could have had it tuned after the fact, that probably would attic me up better fuel mileage and and horsepower with these new.
I was doing it on a budget and did not have that kind of money.
All the injectors seem to be working fine even after about a year-and-a-half of hard work we use this truck for a lawn mower truck Winchester pull a trailer to lawn mowers everything else and has to be turned on and off constantly.
Well I hope this works out.
@@stephengoad3091 thank reply back, thinking doing it to my truck ,has dual exhaust headers and recently had new heads on and 2001 dodge ram 2500 bought new original owner, truck pretty fast with 36 tires just want get better gas mileage goes from 6 to 7 mpg truck only has 100,000 on it still almost new condition, posted pic you'd be like 21 yr old truck looks still new lol ok going order injectors have my mechanic safe old ones and mark ones each cylinder in case want back in
My trucks gas line seems to have a different piece of plastic holding it on. And it looks confusing af. Could you assist me on how to get it off?
Without seeing it I can't really say but it sounds like you have a push or a pinch disconnect gas line.
With a push disconnect gas line you should be one little square on top as a different color than the rest of the black plastic all you have to do with that one is release the fuel pressure then push forward on it trust a little square down and pull back and it should come off.
If it's the pinch style it should have two little prongs that stick out in front of the black plastic they're either green blue or white with that one it will release the fuel pressure then push towards the engine then take your other hand and pinch both of those connectors to the gas line then pull back on the black part, then it should separate one part you'll probably have to remove from the metal gas line or leave it and just tape it so it doesn't move.
If this helps just let me know I'll put a link here for some pictures of the mid-90s to 2000s model Dodge and Jeep gas connectors.
www.google.com/search?q=how+to+remove+push+lock+fuel+line+without+tool&tbm=isch&hl=en&chips=q:how+to+remove+push+lock+fuel+line+without+tool,online_chips:jeep:DWhjMf80QLo%3D&bih=512&biw=360&client=ms-android-sprint-mvno-us&prmd=svin&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj9_Mvtq6DyAhUXg3IEHUSFACAQ4lYoAHoECAEQBQ
@@stephengoad3091 do you have any social media I can show it to you with? Like snapchat?
Not Really the only thing I've got now is just Facebook.
So I didn't look similar to any of the fittings I had under the website link?
It should have been ,it doesn't look similarly to any of the fittings after the website link?
@@stephengoad3091 I've figured it out. It's a square connected to the fuel ray. It has a piece of metal with two squeezable plastic clips. I just squeezed em and pushed up really hard and it came out
So I have a 99 Ram 1500 4x4 and having some issues that I believe may be fuel injectors or fuel related. Do you have a way for me to send you a video of what it’s doing? This is the second time on the last month that it’s done this. Kind of hard to describe exactly what it’s doing
No I don't really have a way for you to send it to me, if you can just try to describe it and I'll see if it matches anything that I'm aware of.
I’m having an issue that seems to be the same with my 2000. Does the idle become rough randomly when you leave it running on park? Rough as in it starts sounding like an old cammed muscle car? While it idles rough does it sound like it’s sucking in too much air as well with a higher pitched air sucking sound? Also when you’re driving does it lose power and start jerking and chugging all of a sudden and stop accelerating when you’re holding the throttle down then when you let off the throttle it starts idling again?
@@lerg12
Sounds like you may have a bad idle air control valve or a bad intake manifold pressure sensor.
Also you can check with a multimeter to see if they are bad, I don't have the specs in front of me but you could probably easily find them on the Internet.
Before changing anything I would look over the engine compartment very carefully for a vacuum leak and there are some vacuum lines that go into the cab on the passenger side to control your airbox doors.
Also these trucks are known for lower intake gaskets going bad and leaking into the engine block, if that's the case you will have some of those issues and you should be burning more oil than normal.
@@stephengoad3091 best part is I haven’t gotten any codes and it was suspected to be the fuel pump and I got it replaced and the same exact issue came back but not nearly as bad which is why I was thinking maybe a faulty injector
@@stephengoad3091 Update: I got a P0172 code pending which is bank 1 running rich, so im thinking it's one injector maybe
This an upgraded injector or did you replace injectors because they were faulty?
Yeah I went from a one hole injector to a four hole injector which I believe was going to be an upgrade.
But I really needed to do was take it and get the ECU programmed for that kind of extra fuel delivery which I did not.
So on cold start up it has a little bit of a stumble to it but after that it smooths out and runs normally.
I can probably buy a pro creamer from eBay or Amazon for my model Dodge and it's got different settings you can set for that kind of modification but I was doing it on the cheap so I thought I'd try it out first.
I didn't get more horsepower only like two to three and my miles per gallon did slightly increase by like a five or so, barely noticeable.
You could probably get more fuel economy out of it if you buy the programmer and use the programmer with the fuel injectors but like I said before I'm a little bit of a cheapskate and this was just a working truck after all.
For the entire set of fuel injectors I paid around $60 for so again on the cheap.
and that might be what's causing it to stumble on startup they might not be an equal spray pattern I never really tested it I just installed them to see if it would work.
Yes they were and upgrade.
I've actually got some that are similar to the ones I got on my comment section below the video.
It's wild coming across your own name on UA-cam.
@@justasimpleman286 there can only be one! You know what must be done
Im watching this for a different reason most people probably are i have to take most of this stuff out of the way to repair the fuel injector cylinder 7 connector pigtail ground squirrel chewed it off and the same thing with the ac compressor clutch wiring connector pigtail which sucks because the ac works great on the truck and it didn't have a butchered hacked up wiring harness but it will look like it does now it's a one owner 2000 dodge ram laramie slt quad cab long bed 5.2 litre 318 magnum V8 46 RE AT manual shift transfer case lever on the floor 1500 gloss black with most of the white pinstripe 4x4..
Sounds like a good truck hope you can keep it on the road.
I would definitely use heat shrink on those wires.
You can even find replacement plugs on the with pigtails sometimes.
Hope the repair is fast and simple for you.
Were did u get that air intake? Nice
ill take one!
I made most of it out of the original airbox and a thin wall irrigation pipe 4 in the filter was a 4-in inside the diameter slip-on style.
I used a few pop ribs and some silicone to seal the Gap in between the 4-in irrigation pipe and the air box nipple that fits on the top of the throttle body.
Although after cutting the old air box part that slips onto the throttle body off I had to take a heat gun and form it inside the 4-in pipe to have a tighter Gap then I used three top rivets through the plastic to hold it all together and then use the silicone to fill the gap.
Hope this helped.
But if you're not wanting to do any major work here is a bolt on kit from eBay that looks pretty decent.
ebay.us/49EVN0
Well either way you tend to go hope it works out for you if you try it.
I did get better throttle sound and it seems to run a little bit better.
Where is the number 3 injector located
On the V8 Dodge engines the number 3 injector should be on the driver's 2nd injector back from the front.
If they haven't been replaced they should be black and silver with one connector that has two wires running into it and it you'll be connected to a fuel rail that all the rest of them on that side of the engine are connected to.
If your engine is running bad and it's saying that it is the injector you can try on plugging it but be careful the connectors are known to break when trying to squeeze the tabs to pull it off if it does you can always stick it back on and tape it in the position, and I got saying you could take and unplug the injector and see if it changes the sound of the engine while it's running if it doesn't then you have a bad injector which is either stopped up or the internals are bad.
If that's the case I do have in the link in the description there are some injectors that I have linked at a decent price you can check them out.
Hope this helped good luck.
will these fit a 2002 dodge ram 1500 5.9
Yes he's injectors should fit that year model.
Just look at your injector connector it should be a square, the newer style is an oblong style.
Hope this helps.
thank you so much. very detailed information great job @@stephengoad3091
is that the 318 or 360
The engine in my pickup truck is a 5.9L 360 engine.
But I believe most of the injectors of that Year model are pretty much the same.
Where did you get that intake
Will the bottom half of it was made from the factory OEM intake hose that comes off the big square box.
I picked up a schedule 40 90% at my local Lowe's 4 in and used a heat gun to mold the schedule 40 inside the tubing I cut off the factory airbox so I would have the clamp portion that would clamp back on to the intake.
Once I had the schedule 40 bald head to the inside of the factory air tube I used some profits and some sensor safe form a gasket cuz you seal the gap then all you need to do is get a short piece a 4-in schedule 40 pipe cut it off where you like it and buy a 4-in cone air filter from eBay they sell anywhere from $17 to $30.
The whole setup cost me about 40 bucks or little under.
Well I hope this is helpful just remember it'd be best to buy a junk one and cut it up just in case you make a mistake you'll have the original.
If you look around on eBay long enough you will find a few kits that will fit directly onto this engine but they cost somewhere between 70 to 120.
Hope this helped have a great day.
Why are they so cheap? Do they perform ok?
Well to be perfectly honest I'm not sure if the flow rate on my set was perfectly matched.
The engine has a slight shutter at idle but not bad, I've been using these from about two years now no problems.
I was just doing it on the cheap if I was doing its again I might get a refurbished Bosch set.
But like I stated, These are working in my truck just fine.
But it's really up to you if you want to go cheap or expensive.
All I can do is give you a feedback on these and my set seems to be doing fine.
Just replaced my fuel injectors on my truck because of this video, everything was working fine, but I notice that the engine starts a lot weaker then it used to, and some times it will just stall out and die after crank. I didnt reset the computer with the battery, any tips on how I can fix this issue? (It worked fine before I replaced the injectors)
First off I will try a battery reset.
So take both battery terminals off the battery and try to touch them together for a little while. DO NOT HAVE EITHER END UP TO THE BATTERY.
You should hold them together for about 15 seconds after that the vehicle set for about an hour to make sure all electricity is out of the computers overnight would be better.
Then you want to hook the battery cables back up to the battery then cycle the key on and off about 10 times.
Then you want to crank the vehicle and actually let it sit and idle do not touch the gas pedal during this, you want to let it idle for approximately 10 to 15 minutes so it goes through the whole warm-up stage once the temperature is at normal operating temperature then you should be programmed.
You're doing this does not change how it's running then the only thing I could think of it might be either too much or too little of gas getting into cylinders.
If that is the case you should be able to hook up a OBD2 scanner in your 02 sensor upstream should be reading either too high or too low or too rich or too lean.
Will the other things you don't want to check is those little plastic tubes on the passenger side of the vehicle sometimes they're very brittle and just moving them around and crack it and cause a vacuum leak you probably want to try this even before the battery reset.
So crank the truck up and get it to idle and listen for any kissing noises even a small vacuum leak on these engines because of your hesitation surgery or even stalling out.
So definitely check for leaks before the battery test.
If all else fails it could be just some bad injectors if doing the check and the battery reset does not changing anything I have to recommend going back with your old injectors, if they symptoms did start after replacement of the injectors.
Just a side note that you do replace your injectors the computer does have to rewind the fuel mixtures sometimes even resetting the battery you will still have to drive around for a little while for it to learn the fuel ratios.
Hopefully something in here helped just leave a comment and let us know how it turns out.
@@stephengoad3091 Thank you so much for the advice!! I really appreciate you taking time to help me with this. I will try it and let you know how it turns out. Thanks again
@@stephengoad3091 Okay this is my update. I was out of town for a few days, but before that I drove it for about 60 miles to see if that would change anything. Since then, my truck has been firing up like it used to. I havent tried the battery reset, but is it possible that my ECU learned the new ratios just from driving? Should I just drive it and not do a reset or anything? I dont want to screw anything up by resetting the battery because I think it just needed some mileage to learn the new injectors. Let me know. Thanks!
Yes that can happen while we are driving the ECM will start correcting itself and learning the new fuel trip, the only thing the battery reset does is wipes out all the old data so it has a fresh graph to learn from.
If it's running fine now go ahead and run it.
Yeah so you should be good to get, also I forgot to ask you last time did you change out your air filter or is your air filter in good shape?
If you install bigger njectors like four hole injectors a high flow air filter would be a good update.
Hope everything works out now happy to hear it's running like it should.
yea there not the right ones
sound like a vacuum leak