2009 Volkswagen CC 2.0 TSI Cam Chain Tensioner Failure. Top-end DIY! Part 2- Back on the Road!
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- So, per my previous vid, the tensioner took a shit and wiped out all 8 exhaust valves and 6 intake valves. After teardown, David Wolff, at Wolff Automotive Machine here in Austin spec'd my head, sourced some used factory VW valves and got the head ready for reinstall. I ordered a top-end/timing kit at www.shopdap.com for timing chains, guides, and all hardware, got my head back from the shop, and the fireworks started flyin!
Thanks for this! I am a Master tech last has been fixing cars in a professional setting for almost 30 years and also owned and operated my own shop for 11 years . I have mostly avoided German cars over the years but recently teamed up with a friend at his shop who specializes in German cars. I found this post very helpful in doing the same job on a 2010 cc. We both poked a little fun at your celebration but it was in good taste! Hope you are still enjoying your repair......Rosco!
HAHA, you bet!!! And thanks Rosco! Yeah, that car had been dead in my driveway for three months, while I read and studied and read some more. I still owed almost 8 grand on the damn thing and was seriously contemplating what it would be like making $400 payments on a car I couldn't drive. I was so glad it didn't shit the bed! This happened at 120k miles and it just turned 147k this past week. Had to replace a water pump in the interim, but aside from that, all is still good! (I just knocked on my wood desk) Thanks for the comment and thanks for watchin!
Nice work! Thanks for the purchase. We really appreciate it very much.
Ayyy!! You bet! Thanks for the kind words. Your vids and tech articles helped me with the confidence to take this one on. It's been a little over a year and 35k miles later and it's still goin strong. I'll be uploading a video of the water pump changeout, which I bought from you guys and Paul himself helped me with selecting. Seems VW's revised that one a few times too. Thanks for stoppin by!
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The moment it starts so damn precious feeling :P
LOL Yep! I looked lie a goof, I couldn't control myself. haha
@@512kjt we've all been there ;) BTW, I lived in Austin back in the late 90s (N. Lamar area, and a short time down off East Riverside :O ). Born/Raised Texas and now live in the communist state of Virginia.
I have a 2010 Passat 2.0 TSI chipped & just spent $3,000 & change to replace upper & lower timing chains, guides, tensioner, new cover, decarbon intake valves, plugs, and replaced intake rail & air bag under warranty. I did this with 92,500 miles and running fine, and I made this preemptive & expensive maintenance decision in large part on your video, and others who have been left with a dead car due to failed timing chain tensioners. I went ahead with new chains & guides since these also have a history of failure, and wish I had replaced the oil pump too while it was accessible, but I haven't heard as many stories about oil pump failures as I have tensioners & chains. I did note allot of valve clicking at idle before, none after, and the engine pulls harder than ever. I'm glad I had VW do it, I just hope I get another 100K miles out of it to justify my decision.
Great video, I applaud your patience & perseverance!
Tim in Greensboro NC
I LOVE my CC! But she's a lustful temptress. As bad as she's been to me I can't let her go yet.
I believe your money was well spent, as long as the shop did what they said they would do and care about their customers and the cars they service. I think you will be fine without the oil pump. That was an issue with the FSI more so than the TSI. I did this work at 120k miles and I'm now at 170k and still going. No oil consumption, no timing issues, but I have replaced a rear main seal and water pump, along with a clutch and pressure plate while i had it in pieces. I wish I had known. I would have taken the preventive measures you did. Good luck! I believe you'll get a solid 250k out of your Passat! Thanks for watching and for the helpful comments!
Thank you so much for posting this. It is hard to find any DIY's on this job (probably because it is such an ass-pain) but I took on a friends Tiguan that the shop replaced the chains but didn't pull the head so now I am doing that to replace the valves. My wife also has an A3 that I need to do the tensioner and chains on too. What a pain this engine is to work on. I have been a fan of VW's for over 20 years and always enjoyed working on them but the TSI has put a pretty bad taste in my mouth. Thanks again, I am feeling a lot more confident after watching your videos.
Awesome Brendan! I read and studied my ass off on this process and that's how I was able to get it done. I used a subscription service for the manual called alldatadiy.com. I still have my subscription so let me know if I can look anything up for you. Dude, I love the styling of my CC. To me it's a beautiful fucking car. I just hate that the build quality is so low. I don't know where VW decided to take the turn to profits over quality, but it was surely before this car hit the streets. God luck on your endeavors. I will be checking on to see if I can help with anything. Cheers!
I enjoy watching smart people working on German vehicles. Great Job.
Thank you kindly, ma'am! ;-)
I cant tell you how much joy you brought me by completing that thing! Not an easy task!!
HA! It was definitely a challenge. I was sooooo relieved when it started up. Aside from not having the charge pipe clamp from the turbo to the intercooler installed properly and blowing the charge pipe off (which scared the hell out of me haha, those little turbos push a surprising amount of pressure) it all went back together and is still running 34k miles later :-) Thanks for celebrating with me!!! LOL!
going through the same thing right now with my 08 wolfsburg... man you are a god! great work, looking foward to more videos. Well played sir
Awww... dude that sucks.Thanks for the kind words, though and I appreciate you watchin! I'll be doing a thermostat replacement soon as I've been getting an engine coolant temp code. It isn't running too hot but the thermostat isn't allowing the engine to get up to temp fast enough so it's throwing a code. I'll get that recorded too. :-)
You are my hero man! I saw many videos but this one was explain very detailed I had the same problem with my car So I took the Same problem so i was like you. To take the mechanical challenge and I finally did it! I felt the same emotion since I started the engine. What a difference to be honest sounds like new. I couldn’t find the words better than thank you
That's awesome! Congratulations Rudy!!!
It's a joy to watch you narrating...Congrats !
Thank you! LOL, I talk too much sometimes and have to edit some stuff out. I try to keep my thoughts in order and stick to the point, but sometimes I go off on a rant. Like this comment, haha. I'll be doing a new video on this car soon. I am replacing the water pump and it's going to be a beast, so be on the lookout if you need more tips on the 2.0 TSI engine. Thanks for watchin!
Great ! Thank you. Btw, you don't talk "too much". The way you explain is the state of the art how to narrate.
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words!!!
6:20 perfectly captures that feeling after a long ass repair and everything turns on and runs fine. 100% with you
Thanks Woody! Definitely a feeling of accomplishment for a shade tree mechanic like me!
I dont think ive ever heard a more well deserved " fu*k yeah!" in my life. 👍👍👍 Awesome job, kudos!
Great job, well done and thanks for making such a helpful video. I laughed at the “2000 years later" bit. Ha. Really rang true with me and home garage work
Haha thanks!! Yeah, that's my life.
that's an amazing challenge buddy, very very very great job, i had a passat 2009 2.0TSi engine with a lot of issues, it jerk so much on idle when i start it early morning in cool weather, High RPM some times, Engine Fault notification Sometime, i hope i can repair it myself like you, you really gave me a positive energy to start doing it myself :)
Thank you very much for the kindness! Sorry for the late reply. The 2.0 TSI engines have a problem with carbon build up in the intake ports and on the intake valves. It can cause stalling, misfires, poor fuel economy, jerky hesitation and accelerations. In Part 1, I put the link in the description section for a video I watched on how to remove the intake and clean the carbon deposits. Also, there is a warranty issue on the intakes where they can warp and cause the issues you are describing. How many miles/km are on the car?
512kjt thanks alot dear for reply my Passat milage is 155000km....also I never changed my transmission oil and filter should I change them ??? and is it easy to do it ?
If the transmission fluid and filter have never been replaced, I would replace them. Depending on the transmission (I am assuming you have an automatic) change intervals are at a minimum every 70,000 km. My CC has a manual transmission, so I've never had to replace it. It seems fairly complicated with some specialized tools required for the automatic or DSG transmissions. I would attempt it if mine had an automatic, but that's me. If you don't have advanced mechanical skills, I would recommend taking it to a shop. It isn't your average transmission fluid and filter change. Good luck!
i cant find my original comment anymore but thank you a ton for all your help, we are just starting to finish up now, got the exhaust manifold and chains finished up yesterday, honestly installing the cam chains was the easiest part of the whole thing lol! your videos + a bentley manual helped alot, still ran into a few different things that were quite difficult i thought i should add, you have to remove the bearing bracket before you take the chains off, the crankshaft wheel is a PITA we used heat plus a breaker(spent 3+ hours on just this part unfortunately), and by far the worst part is removing the exhaust manifold, but i still think its considerably easier then removing the turbo(spent a whole day on removing the intake mani(really easy) and exhaust manifold. With 2 guys, one with little mechanical experience(me) we are about 18 hours in with just the intake install and plugging everything back in.
@512kjt thank you so much for your videos and extra speedy responses to my questions! one more question to pick your brain, while i was following the guide it said to spin the crank to make sure nothing is hitting the pistons after everything is in place. i did this and it was all good, but i just assumed it would line back up on the colored chains, which it did not. after thinking about it, theoretically it wont line back up in hundreds or thousands of rotations, correct?
Hey Justin, sorry for the late response and you are very welcome!! I actually rolled it over again and again until the marks lined back up. I don't recall how many rotations but I know it was well into the dozens and probably took me about an hour to get it back around where all of the marks lined back up, but they did. That was when I went ahead with the final assembly and buttoned it all up. It can be done, but it took a lot of patience. I was confident that I had it all lined up. I just wanted to see for myself that they all lined up once more.
512kjt thanks we were confident it was right and moved forward, started right up:) still having a couple issues though unfortunately, oil leak at the turbo and misfire at high boost on cyl 1, hopefully it's a coil or plug
Good feeling to get something figured out after working on it a long time.
You got that right Sam!!! Almost three months from failure to restart. Nothing like a Chevy small block for sure. Thanks for watchin and commenting!
thank you for your time , these are well presented and i appreciate the level of details
Thank you! I wish I could have done a better job with recording the video as the job progressed, but I had to focus my attention on the task at hand. I appreciate your kind words!
Man this video just made my day unfortunately my vehicle is in the shop for that issue right now
Sorry to hear that. I hope they can take care of it for you and at a fair price!
I just saw your entire video and thought about what I could say to you and your ordeal with this VW CC. First a word of caution, if I were you I would be careful with those VW forums. It has been my experience that in order to come away with any significant knowledge it will require from you the ability to disregard inaccuracies and take into account accurate information; that's a challenge on its own. There's a lot of inaccurate information regarding mechanically complex issues on VW forums. In my own case I've solved this issue by buying the correct repair manual for my current car. You can pick-up one for your car at any automotive parts store or just buy on line. These repair manuals always include the most important steps in getting your engine working like new as well as other aspects of car maintenance. The second part of my comment is more conversational than anything else. I too am my own mechanic and have relied on these tips I just shared with you to keep my VW Golf on the road ever since I got it. Unlike your CC my Golf is mechanically simple and doesn't have so many potential fatal problems that can occur do to a highly complex engine design. Your CC's engine contains many plastic components forming part of your timing and intake architecture and they will fail at some point in time. My suggestion for the future is to shop on line for upgrade parts that are made of metal and sold by performance web stores and will fit your engine type. I've found that whenever possible replacing plastic components with high quality metal ones will ensure that part failure will be a thing of the past. You did a great job with this one and I can see why you're happy with your self; I too get goofy when I prevail over difficult car jobs. Good luck!
Thank you for the comment and for sharing the advice. I too, found some of the forum details lacking which is why I ended up using the alldatadiy.com online repair and service manual. It isn't the best resource, but it was helpful. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Excelente trabajo amigo!
Me encanto tu expresión de felicidad cuando encendió el motor!
Esa sensación es increíble.
Y gracias por compartir con nosotros tu conocimiento.
Muchas gracias!!! Tuve mucha felicidad cuando empezó! Gracias por su visita!
Well done, a great job. This video is just what I need theese days as my engine have had a break down, its an 1,8 tsi CDAA in a Skoda. My local workshop, which I'm never ever gonna use again, is charging me half the cars value for fixing it up. Lucky for me guys like you is around and solves problems by making theese videos. Thank you so much.
Now, as for reinstalling the cylinder head, you need a certain amont of tools, right? Colud you make a list of excactly what you need? And what about torquing? That's something I havent found.
Again, thanx a lot.
Excellent job there Kenny ! Well done, all the kudos is well deserved. Nice bike too, btw :-)
Well done awesome work! My 2011 Audi A3 2.0TFSI always rattles on startup and I thought that was normal too but 2 weeks ago It died from suspected chain tensioner failure at 65K miles. I have contemplated doing a DIY fix but I don't think I have the knowledge or spare time. I'm in the UK and trying to get Audi to cover the cost but I'm out of warranty and things don't look too clever at the moment.
Thank you for watching!There is a class action lawsuit here in the U.S. where participants are getting their warranties extended and the repairs covered or the cost of repairs reimbursed. Is there something similar there in the UK where owner/victims can recoup these costs of inferior design and negligence in communications?
+Greg M | I can't reply to your comment for some reason... Thank you very much for the kind words! It was definitely a challenge. And thanks for the compliment on the bike. Leave it up to another biker to spot my R6S. I see your avatar is a bike and if you're interested, I also do motovlogs on my other UA-cam channel, TexR6s. Thanks for watchin!
Glad ya got it running... Just a quick thought: Wouldn't checking the tensioners when there's a rough running issue or at least every 100,000 miles be a good idea as a preventative measure to stop you from melding valves to pistons?... Looks like your car was right over the 100K mark when that tensioner took a sh^t
is that a year ago already ? I'll check your TexR6s channel out ;)
can you imagine if you had put it all back together without double checking your work ?? great call on double checking before you buttoned it up !!
Thanks! Truth!!! I've heard from a couple of folks on that topic and it has happened. This car would probably still be sitting in my driveway, if that had happened to me, because I don't think I was ready for Round 2. LOL
I do this every day for work. Every time I start the car after timing chain job, I cringe and hope it goes well
Yeah, that cringe. I can see why. She rattled pretty good on first start but settled on down after a few seconds. Good on you for being a tech this day and age. These things are getting more and more intricate and technical every year.
that's awesome! I think that one last deep breath is standard operating procedure before turning the key. great job.. over all.. how long did it take?
Thanks!! So true, I was anxious to get it started but scared as hell too! Actual hands on, it probably took me about 25 hours. If I have to do it again, that time will likely be cut in half because it always takes you twice as long to do something the first time. For me anyways! Thanks for watchin!
Great videos. I have not been through the same problems you have yet, thank goodness. I have a 2010 VW CC with the 2.0t tsi. My question to you is can I change the old tensioner in my car with the new upgraded tensioner without removing the timing chains? I would like to do that before my goes bad and tears everything else up. I have been looking for videos for this but you are the only one I have found that tears into it. I have seen some for Audi 2.0t, but didn't know if it was the same motor or not. Thanks in advance
Hey Tim, sorry for the slow reply. Yes, you can replace the tensioner without removing the timing chains, but it does involves removing the crankshaft pulley and the timing chain cover, which requires a special tool for holding the pulley while removing the large crankshaft bolt, and a special spacer to hold all of the gears in place while you remove the rest of the components. You will also likely have to buys another timing chain cover since the sealant they use on them is so strong that you will likely bend or warp the cover trying to remove it. The Audi TSI engines are the same, with the exception of the plastic covers.
Yes you can..I have a 2010 vw passat with same engine and replaced the tensioner with the latest one (version K) without removing the timing chains. Took me 6 hours to complete the job. You should do it soon before the engine goes Kaput
Way to go Kenny ! Success is always sweet ;)
Thank you, Cary! This one was especially. Thanks for stoppin by!
Good job man!
Thanks for posting.
Thank you!!! and you are very welcome. Thanks for taking time to watch my vid!
hey, great video!
Do you have any photos or videos of the cam cover and valve cover going back on? I have an Audi A4 with a similar motor and I need to change the gaskets but don't know what needs to be removed ect.
Hey weeees5, thanks for the compliment! The camshaft cover doesn't actually have a gasket. In Part 1, I have the head set on the work bench and explain how VW uses only gasket maker on the camshaft cover. The plastic on on the front of the engine does have a gasket, though. Where is the oil leak coming from?
It's towards the front of the motor seeping from under the valve cover. O'Riley's had a gasket set for the valves and the cam, guess it's like my rear brakes they had on file.... wrong. lol
oh! and I have the Quattro model, so my engine isn't side saddle. it's close to the cam cover that's leaking.
What year is your Quattro? And , yeah, good thing you've got the Quattro, because these motors are a pain to work on when transverse.
I know that feeling man. Nice work
Ha thanks! Yeah, I was definitely holding my breath on this one. Thanks for watchin
That is so awesome! Congrats bud.
Thank Erik! Hopefully now I can start working on the fun stuff again! Thanks for dropping by!
Yyeaayuuuhhh. So knowledgeable man. Awesome work.
oh one thing I forgot to ask .. and for those who watch this vid should take as a huge hint . have you owned your car since new ? you talked about rattle when you start it an you didnt know that was not normal. Did the noise start slowly or had it been there since you bought the car ??
I bought my car with 36,000 miles on it. Lease return and Certified Pre-Owned from a local VW dealer here in Austin in December 2012. At that time VW and their dealers already knew this was an issue and had produced revised parts for replacements and new production. The sound was there from the beginning, but very slight and short, like less than a second. As time and mileage went on, it got louder and lasted for longer periods, some times up to three seconds. That's what it was doing when it failed. I changed oil every 10k with LiquiMoly factory spec oil and Mann filters. Zero oil consumption in 10k miles at every oil change. Even now with 163k miles on it, no oil consumption at oil changes.
Greatly appreciated the videos, Just want to verify one thing for now. It seems you used ALLDATA for your reference information correct? Torque specs and such.
Glad they helped. Correct! The layout and structure of the website is kind of a pain in the ass and there are a few things in there that are missing, but 99% of the torque specs, torque sequences, OEM part numbers, repair instructions, etc. came from ALLDATADIY.
512kjt
Awesome. Going to get access tonight. Started mine today. I purchased the car already busted and mostly disassembled. Dealing with bit of a puzzle. Thanks again.
No problem! I spent hours looking through the website and reading about the different components that make up the valve train and timing components. Good luck!
All that plastic inside the engine... Ugh. Makes me want to stick to old cars where parts were made to last. I am in the process of doing a timing chain service on a 93 Nissan pickup. It had a plastic guide on one side of the chain, but Nissan learned from those failures and modified the guide. They are metal backed plastic now and last a long time.
Nice job, good luck with the future of this motor.
Thanks Kro- Man! Yeah, I'm 52 and I'm partial to the older stuff, but at some point i have to decide where I'm gonna hang out. Should I hang on to the old, should I grab on to the new.... The car's still hangin in there. I've got another 47,000 miles on her. we'll see where it all ends. Thanks for watchin!
512kjt - It seems that these timing chain tensioners are a known problem and that an owner of a VW 2.0 engine should put these parts on a schedule to be replaced every 80k miles or so. If you change the tensioner(s) as if it were a part of the regular maintenance maybe it would spare the valves?
Hi folks-I am looking at buying an '09 with the 2.5L engine.
It is my understanding that the timing belt tensioner can be an issue, but from what I have seen, this is more of a problem in the 2.0T engines.
My question is: From everyone's experience, is the 2.5 a substantially-different engine? Best information I could find is that the 2.5 is a 20 V, 5cyl DOHC engine. Does it have a belt or a chain, and is it an interference engine? Most importantly, if I buy this car, should I be planning to replace the belt/chain right away, for safety's (of the engine) sake?
It's better to start it than to crank it , it'll build oil pressure much faster if you start it rather than cranking it ....the chain has a higher chance of jumping while just cranking
Thank you for that advice, makes sense. Hopefully others will see your comment and learn something. Thanks for sharing!
I've used the anaerobic sealant twice now and it continues to leak. The real question is, how has your sealant held up?
So far, so good! No issues with the sealants at all.
Damn, impressive. Looks intimidating as hell though
Thanks! Yeah, it was for me, for sure. Never torn into a twin cam 4 valve with timing chains before. Next I get to replace the rear main seal. Working up the courage for that one now. LOL Thanks for watchin!
Great video man!
Do you know what would cause a 2.0 tsi to have low compression? And if so should I drive or wait till I fix it?
My father had the head redone, but his timing keeps jumping off we replaced the tensioner and we are going crazy wondering what's causing the timing to skip
New chain and guides too or just a new tensioner? Camshaft position sensor good? Crankshaft gear indexed properly on the crankshaft. VW left too many weak links on this engine when it comes to getting the timing components all sync'd up.
Awesome work bud! I would have done the same celebration lol. I do have a quick question. If i remove the valve cover slash cam girdle on top of engine do to leaking will it mess with the timing? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Thanks Joe! No, it should not mess with the timing as long as you are careful when you remove the cover. The small upper timing chain guide attached to the cover holds the timing chain tight against the camshaft gears, and by removing the upper cover you do remove a small bit of tension from the chain, but it should not be enough to allow the cams to jump time. If I was doing this on mine, I would remove the upper timing cover and use a paint pen, or some other means to mark a spot on the cams and a corresponding links on the chains. That way if it does jump by a tooth, I would know where to sync it back to. Also, I would order a new upper chain guide. Cheap and easy to replace while the cover is off.
Great work buddy. I just have a question and I would really appreciate you taking the time for some insight. Were there any symptoms before the chain broke? Any kind of warning or sign that'd be indicative of an immenint chain snap?
Thank you Ali. No, there were no warning signs. Performance was great. I changed oil every 10,000 miles per VW recommendations using LiquiMoly oil and VW oil filters. Even at those long oil change intervals, there was no oil loss in between oil changes. The car always rattled a little when I would start it up, but nothing ever got louder or longer, as far as engine noises, as the mileage ticked off. The car ran flawlessly all the way up to the day it failed at 120k miles. I didn't even know the chain tensioner was an issue until I started researching my symptoms on the internet after the failure. I've been working on cars since I was a teenager (35 years ago LOL) and I'm very familiar with changes in performance, sounds, etc when it comes to vehicles and my CC never hinted about anything that was wrong.
Bullshit you’ll have a check engine light then it’ll start to run rough misfire and then stop when valves hit
I just LOST IT haha 2000 YEARS LATER lmfao 😂😂😂 I've been there a few times good videos though
Thanks LOL! I always crack up when people put those in their vids, figured I was use one too. :-) Thanks for watchin!
+512kjt haha not a problem thanks for the great writeup and motivation ... doing this in the next year or so finally hit 70k and don't want to go too far on the original tensioner plus I want to build the bottom end for some more power
Nice :-) They are cool little engines with a lot of potential. Just need to weed out the weak links!
Did you just have the engine supported with a jack under the oil pan the entire time? Thanks
That was it. It doesn't weigh that much at the point where I had it supported. I just didn't want the weight of the engine and transmission resting only on the driver side engine mount.
at how many km did the timing chain go on your engine? and my a4 b8 2.0t has the code p0016 thinking it needs a new tensioner, i have 120km
Mine went out at 120k miles or ~200,000 km. I think the p0016 code is a camshaft/crankshaft out of sync error which could either indicate the car has jumped time or you have a failed crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. With the known issues on the tensioner, I would put my money on jumping time. Just a new tensioner will not solve the problem, as the front of the engine needs to be removed and the camshafts and crankshaft all need to be indexed properly again to get the car back in correct timing sequence. Good luck, I hope it all turns out well!
is it possible that the car jumps time and still runs perfectly? my car runs perfectly just the code shows up and slight stuttering at idle sometime
thanks a lot for your help and info. I will check my fuse today and see it that takes away the engine light.
GREAT VID!
What Head bolt removal tool did you use??? All the ones i see on amazon I see reviews saying they don't fit correctly.. Please! i know its a polydrive bit (squared off torx)
I may be making a vid of my own on this engine since there is nothing besides your vids on here about it.. I unfortunately found out mine was a balancing shaft failure and jumped timing! need the head tool so i can send it off to a machine shop and then get it all put together.. first engine i went this deep into and hope putting it all back goes well lol.. thanks!
Thanks Matt! I used this one and also found it at my local O'Reilly... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MXFH0TY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I had to grind down the turndown (chrome adapter) to get it to fit into a couple of the head bolt holes and the one that's the deepest I just used a punch and knocked the bit out of the adapter and used a good quality 10mm deep socket on the bit to get the deep head bolt torqued down.
Damn, that sucks. Check out this video. ua-cam.com/video/zTEMl9q9iD0/v-deo.html
Same thing happened to this guy's engine. Yeah, I wished I had taken more video of the work that I did, but I was
focused on the job since it was the first time I had done this kind of work.
The cradle that bolts onto the end of the camshafts, does it need any rtv one is rtv only used on the “valve cover”?
None on the cam bridge, only on the valve cover. Check out Part 1 here ua-cam.com/video/wGqF5xHx3tE/v-deo.htmlm7s where I mention the location of the sealant. Do not apply sealant to the small slots in the cam bearing girdles that span across the width. Those are small hole designed to equalize pressure imbalances between the four sections and allow the PCV assembly to pull from all areas once the valve cover is bolted back down.
I've got my CBFA 2.0tsi engine entirely pulled for POS cam chain tensioner. I was hoping you could help me with the procedure you used for re-installing the cam shafts and valve cover to the cylinder head. I have the two specialty cam locking pins, but I'm not 100% sure the cams are positioned the correct way in my cylinder head.
Once you get the cams in the head and close to position with the timing marks on the camshaft gears, you can reinstall the valve cover and torque per the factory sequence and torque values. Very important to torque in sequence and to the correct values for the cam cover bolts. I assumes you have already done this but I'll say it here in case someone else need the information.
In order to install the camshaft locking pins, you have to remove the cam bearing bridge which is bolted to the front of the head where the camshaft gears are. To do this, you must remove the locking collar on the front of the intake cam that holds the variable timing actuator on. One of the tools in the kit I purchased fits onto a 3/8" drive and is a ring shape with two dowel pins. The locking ring has left-handed threads, so you have to go clockwise to loosen it and counter-clockwise to tighten it. Once you get the locking ring and the cam timing actuator off, you can remove the cam bridge. The locking pins bolt to the head below both of the camshafts and the points lock into the camshaft gears to hold them in place while you install the timing chain. Use the colored links on the timing chain to make sure the cams are timed properly with the chain. The engine must be Cylinder 1 Top Dead Center when you install the cams and line the timing marks up on the cam chain with the intake and exhaust cam gears and the crankshaft gear. Once the chain is installed and all timing marks are aligned release the clip on the cam chain tensioner. Remove the cam locking pins and immediately install the cam bridge to make sure everything stays in place. Check all three timing marks (six if you're doing the balancing chain also) before you reinstall any of the covers.
Thanks so much.
I was a bit worried after I had all 6 timing marks lined up and tensioned appropriately. The first time I did this, I wanted to make sure that everything stayed in time, so I rotated the crank in the direction of engine rotation for several revolutions to find that the two timing marks on the cams were always lined up with my valve cover markings, but were not lined up with the colored timing chain links. After doing a bit of research, I found that it takes 166 revolutions for the timing links on the chain to sync with the timing marks on the cam gears.
This job would be so much easier if the engine were transverse.
Thanks for posting your video. Hopefully I don't throw any torque wrenches through the wind screen.
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msushorty9
Awesome!!! I did the same thing after rotating one revolution to check for clearances. I didn't count, but I know I rotated the engine one rotation at a time for over an hour. and yes it would be MUCH easier working off the front of the car and not from the side with hardly any clearance. Good luck!!!
im a tech at the dealer. this was pretty amusing. thanks.
You bet! Stick around for my water pump replacement vid, it'll prolly give you a chuckle too. Thanks for stoppin by!
how do you install the exhaust manifold?
Good for you - that isn't a simple thing you've done!
Tell me about your ODB and cell phone - I'd like to buy something like that - can you give the spec for it?
Thanks Dane! The app is called ODBFusion and it was $9.99 in the Apple app store. The plug-in adapter is made by Veepeak. I bought it on Amazon for $17.99 here: amzn.com/B00WPW6BAE I bought this one because I don't have any Android and this one had the best ratings I could find for an iOS device.
It's a fairly basic code reader but it works off of wireless. When you plug it in, it powers up the wireless signal and you just use your phone to connect. I've used it on my wife's 2008 Saturn Outlook, my 97 Tahoe (the main reason for buying since that truck had many issues when I bought it) a 2001 Chev Silverado and my 09 VW CC. It even has a dashboard you can monitor while driving to read just about every input value that' going to the ECM, except oil pressure, which I find weird. I'm working on a video now where I changed the alternator on my Tahoe and I go a little more in depth with the Veepeak and the app. I'll try to get it up tonight. Thanks for watchin!
A video on it would be a super idea - there is a whole world of OBD out there with just a bit of information on. I'm a newbie on it, but just ordered a WiFi link and will be downloading Fusion when I get the doggle. Thanks again for your videos - you do great work.
BTW, what the iPhone app you used to determine the engine Fault Code??????
Hello Hany! I used a program called OBD Fusion and an OBD wireless module that plugs into the OBDII port made by a company called VEEPEAK. I have another video here on my channel where I replaced the alternator on my 1997 Tahoe and I go over the VEEPEAK and the OBD Fusion software. Thanks for watching!
Hey Sir, I am trying to replace the upper timing chain cover gasket on my 2011 VW Tiguan . Do you know how I can do that? I can easily get to the upper 3 screws, the bottom two are a pain but I read somewhere to take the mount off and replace it. Also how can I get the magnet off? All the help is greatly appreciated.
hi snktrd! The magnet comes off by removing the three bolts. It should slide out and come off after the bolt removal. Unfortunately, the motor mount has to come off in order to get to the two lower bolts. i wouldn't worry about replacing it. They are pretty beefy and you would have to be a pretty hard driver to tear them up. My CC has 155k on it now and the mounts are still in great shape. Good luck!
512kjt thank you
I have problem with vw passat 2009
Timing chain jumped
Intake valves bent,i replaced all intake valves,timing chain kit,cam bridge . but now misfire in 1 and 2 cylinders
No compression in both cylinders
Sounds like the timing is off on the valve train. You have to line up all of the timing components, crankshaft to crankshaft timing gear, crankshaft timing gear to the right mark on the timing chain and both cam gears to the proper timing marks on the timing chain. As you can see, I got my chain off by one tooth and had to redo it. It is easy to do if you are not very careful. Were the pistons in good shape when you tore down the engine? Besides a damaged piston or cylinder wall, the only thing that can cause low or no compression would be valves not seating or being held open during a compression stroke by being out of time.
I have a 2011 CC RLine. Ran fine in the morning. Got back in it 10 mins later. Check engine light came on and EPC light. Started running very rough and low power. Got it parked and turned off. Now it won't turn on. Shop thinks engine is gone because chain let go. Is this engine really scrap or how can I go about diagnosing it? Only 110,00 miles on it. Please let me know your thoughts as I have no cash for a new engine.
Sorry for the delayed reply, traveled for the weekend. At 110k, your engine, timing components notwithstanding, isn't even halfway used up. EPC stands for Electronic Pedal Control and there are three components for that system... the gas pedal itself, the throttle body actuator and the harness in between the two. If you can, get a code reader and check the diagnostic trouble codes
that are stored. DO NOT UNPLUG THE BATTERY or the codes will clear. That error code alone isn't indicative of a destroyed engine, but other error codes could be a better indicator of what may have happened when you tried to restart it. Timing issues will show up as error codes on issues like camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor or engine speed sensor. Ask the shop that condemned it if they have a report on the codes that were pulled. Regarding the timing chain, the chain wouldn't "let go" per se, but due to the shitty tensioners it could go slack enough to allow the chain to jump time. If the engine was running when you shut it off and it didn't die do to a catastrophic failure like mine, there should be minimal damage, if any, to the valves, pistons and head.
To diagnose the timing chain, timing phasing and bent valves- Does it make a terrible cracking or knocking sound if you try to start it? If not, when you crank the engine and it spins freely like there is no resistance, you have lost compression on all cylinders, timing has jumped. If you have lost compression on one or some of the cylinders, but not all, the engine will sound funny while cranking, timing has jumped. Rent or buy a compression tester and check compression in each cylinder to see if one or more cylinders are way out of line with the other cylinders. Check youtube for videos on how to use a compression tester if you haven't used one before. There are hundreds of them out there. The compression test will also diagnose possible bent valves. If the compression tests are okay, you'll need to verify that your timing between the crankshaft and the intake and exhaust cams is still in sync. The timing can be off by one or two teeth on either camshaft and still show good compression.
To diagnose the engine timing, you'll need to remove the upper timing cover to access the camshafts and timing gears and chain. You will need to rotate the engine and try to sync the timing marks on the camshafts with the colored links on the timing chain. To do this, you will need a socket (I don't remember the size of the crankshaft bolt) and a breakover bar or large 1/2" drive ratchet to rotate the engine until you get the two camshaft timing marks lined up with the colored links on the chain. This could take up to 40-50 revolutions to get all of the timing marks and colored links in place, so be patient. If and when you finally get the two camshaft timing marks lined up with the colored links on the chain, you will need to check to see if cylinder #1 is at Top Dead Center or TDC or Bottom Dead Center. There IS a timing mark on the crankshaft pulley, but there is nothing definitive to locate TDC or BDC. Best way to do this, with #1 spark plug removed, use a solid plastic or wooden dowel at least 12" long that is small enough to fit into the spark plug hole, but large enough so it doesn't fall over and slide down into the cylinder at an angle, and carefully slide it down into the cylinder. Rotate the engine back and forth approx 15°. The piston will should be on the compression stroke and at TDC or on the exhaust stroke at BDC, like being on a peak or in a valley, and as you rotate the engine back and forth, the dowel should move slightly up and down (less than a half inch) indicating it's at the end of the stroke. If it is in the middle of a stroke, the dowel will move an inch or two with that same 15°. If that is the case, the cylinder timing is out of sync and the timing has jumped.
Thanks for the info. My mechanic confirms that the engine is too expensive to rebuild. So, i will be grabbing a used complete engine with 37,000miles. Comes with 30 month / unlimited mile warranty. there goes 4K. LOL!
Very good video. Very instructive and inspiring. I have one question. How do you know it is time for the cam chain tensioner to be replaced. I mean, what are the synptoms. Does the engine rattle like a diesel or something ? My 2007 passat turbo rattles after I start it but only for about a minute or two. Do you think that's maybe cos it is cold or do I need to replace the tensioner ? Thank you very much in advance and keep up the good work.
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words! I think the 2007 had the previous version of this motor, the FSI. I'm not sure about that engine, but mine did rattle upon start-up. The symptoms would be a rattle, loss of power and sometimes the ECM will even throw a code and turn on the check engine light for misfires or incorrect camshaft positioning or timing. My car no longer rattles on start-up after replacing the chains and tensioner, even when it's cold and has been sitting for a few days. I would check forums and websites for information on the tensioner for your style of engine. If you had a 2010 2.0 TSI I would advise that you replace the tensioner, but I don't know if the FSI tensioner is as problematic as the TSI. Either way I would take it to a shop familiar with the VW engines and at least get a quick opinion. Good luck!
Why not have the camshaft locking tools in place until the chain tensioner is installed?
I did keep the locking tools in place, but there is just enough slack and tension to keep the chain loose enough to where it can skip one tooth. It was also about 3am when I got to that point and I didn't re-check the timing marks before removing the locks and installing the cam bridge.
I hear you bud, at least you got it running. I did the timing job on a 2.0T TSI MK5 engine, but the car wouldn't start, it almost starts and there's some smoke at the exhaust. I'm yet to run the compression and fuel tests. There's only one error code (P2295 Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 Control Circuit Low). Are there any special procedures to install the camshafts other than having timing marks pointing upwards before installing the cover? I got the timing chains align perfectly at the TDC. Thank you and good job.
Thanks man. Other than clocking the gears and chains up top and the crankshaft below, there's really nothing else in terms of getting the timing chain in sync. It's critical that you align the links on the chain with the mars on the gears, and as I showed here, it can be very easy to have one slip one tooth while you're trying to get it all reassembled.
I got the gears aligned perfectly with the timing chain marks. I just wasn’t sure if the camshafts need to be aligned other than have the timing marks pointing up prior installing the cover. According to the Haynes repair manual, the pistons cannot be at the TDC when installing the camshafts and cover. I found the TDC using the screwdriver method; rotated the crankshaft until the piston #1 was all the way up, then I marked the timing. Not sure how precise that method is but the engine rotates smoothly by hand and all timing marks align with each full turn. This is the most complicated job I’ve done so far but we’re not giving up yet. Thank you again for your help 😊
First let me say awesome video man! I have a 2009 vw cc and the top guide snapped into pieces. Thankfully it wasn't while i was driving. I parked it, and then it just didn't start again. I found 4 of the 5 pieces. I took the cover off to find the pieces. Now i need to take that other cover off that's held on with those T40 screws. Is it just held on with those screws or do I need something else to take it off? Doesn't seem to just slide off.
Thanks!! If you're talking about the lower cover, after you've removed the crankshaft pulley, you have to get under the cover with a screwdriver or wedge and pry it off.The adhesive they used is so strong, the cover is usually bent during removal. If you're talking about the top cover, the actuator for the cam timing valve has to be removed first.
finally got everything off! all the chains are off time. nothing else is broken or destroyed. looks like i just have to get everything back to time. is there any special tool i need to get everything back to time or is it just take it all the way apart and put it back together
You'll need a timing tool set which I bought off of amazon.com but their prices have gone up. This one shopdap.com/store/20t-tsi-timing-chain-special-tool-install-kit.html is the same and about $30 cheaper than the cheapest on amazon. If you've already got the front off, you have the specialty socket bits required for the triple squares. Nothing else I can think of right now, but it is critical that you get the timing synced exactly and that the lower timing sprocket doesn't spin on the crankshaft while you're trying to sync everything up.
great job i was so happy when it started
Ha, thanks Hanson! So was I, brotha! So was I! Thanks for watchin!
I am attempting this same job. At the moment I am stll trying to get the cyl. head off. For the exhaust did you remove the turbo or just remove the exhaust manifold nuts to unbolt it from the head?
Thomas, found this in a recent reply to another viewer:
You have to remove the heat shield covering the manifold and there are two bolts holding it in place. One on the drivers side is a flat widehead bolt that require a 5mm allen wrench. The other is on the passenger side and is an M10 triple square, if I recall correctly. Not exactly sure about the size but it is definitely a triple square. I had to use a light and the video camera on my phone to find them. Once you get the heat shield out of the way there are 9 or 10 exhaust studs with 13mm nuts on them. They are located across the top of the manifold (easiest to get to) and along the bottom. I had to experiment with different extension lengths, and deep and shallow sockets to get them all off. Once off, there are two bar brackets across the bolts on the bottom that slide off of the studs. They are wedge shaped and help distribute the torque evenly across the bottom studs when tightening the nuts back up.
Thanks for your reply I just got the cylinder head off and its definitely not going back on the same way it came off lol. Good news for me is my pistons look okay!
that's great news!
What was your overall cost for parts? Also, same thing happened to my 2011 CC. There is an active class action lawsuit open for this SAME problem.
My overall cost for parts, machine shop labor and specialty tools was ~$1,500.00. I saved money by having the head rebuilt and my machine shop guy found me a good set of used OEM valves for $75.00. Otherwise, I would have been looking at around $1,750.00. I had some information on the lawsuit, but I misplaced it. The attorney told me that since I already had 120k mile on it that I would be low on the totem pole for damages.
rmgphotos | Thank you! Sorry, I just saw this comment. UA-cam still hasn't figured out how to let the video creators know when everyone leaves a comment and I have a bunch of videos out, so I can't look at each one of them every day. What did you end up doing? I hope you were treated well, if you elected to have someone do it for you.
MinerGate | Sorry about the late replay. UA-cam does a terrible job at informing me when someone leaves a comment. Google "Volkswagen TSI Timing Tensioner Lawsuit" and see what pops up. I'm not a member of any class actions so I can't say of some are more viable than others.
Congratulations for the successful attempt to fix your own car. Quite inspirational for many people judging from the comments here. I would like to hear your opinion as I’m thinking to buy a cc within the next days. I really like the line of the car and I can call myself a vw guy as I had a couple of them in the past. My last vw was a Golf Gti from 2006 and I only had a mechatron failure(it’s an expensive repair too). The engine of Gti was 2.0 Tfsi so basically the same engine like the Passat??
What do you say? Shall I proceed or not with the purchase?
Sorry! I had written a very long response, but it doesn't look like it posted. Did you end up getting the CC?
did you buy the cam locking tool to do this?
Yes. Found one on Amazon.
512kjt were did you get your cam holding tools?
Ordered them off of Amazon. Came with the two cam locks, two tensioner holding clips, the bcrankshaft pulley tool, the spacer for the timing gear and a bolt. The bolt that came with my kit didn't fit the crankshaft so I just re-used my crankshaft bolt to install the spacer and hold everything together. It also included four dowel pins, but I think those are for a different version of the engine, I think the FSI. I didn't use them.
Fortunately my tensioner hasn't failed yet, but I'm planning on replacing it as a preventative measure. How difficult was it to remove the crankshaft pully and I was also wondering if it is splined or keyed to the shaft. I plan on getting one of those big washers you talk about. Anything specific I should know about procedures regarding the crank pully or lower timing cover?
You need a special crankshaft tool to hold the crankshaft while you break the crankshaft bolt loose. I can tell you that the bolt is TIIIIGHT! The tool has a 36" handle on it with a collar that has four pins sticking out of it that fit into four holes in the crankshaft pulley. It isn't splined or keyed, there is a diagonal pattern on the back of the pulley and the front of the timing gear that have to mesh and there is one small detent area that has to line up or you will damage the pulley and the timing gear on the crankshaft if they are out of phase. Most important is to get that spacer back on there immediately, so you reduce the chance of the gear slipping out of time. The crankshaft should be at #1 cylinder top dead center TDC when you take it all apart, so you'll know where to set it when you reinstall the pulley. Buy a new crankshaft bolt. They are torque-to-yield which usually means they're good for one use, but I re-used mine in an act of desperation to get it back together. I did not torque it to full specs, only initial specs and did not go the extra 1/4 turn. Still working fine to this day, but I would have bought one if I knew. Order a new timing cover. Their sealant is strong and you could possibly bend the old cover getting it off. New cover comes with a crankshaft seal too, so you won't have to worry about ordering and installing a new seal on the old cover. I used O'Reilly Auto Parts house brand Ultra Gray. No oils leaks at all and it's holding up fine. When you get the cover off, use some wire ties to go around the upper timing chain and pull it together to keep the tension on it. Wrap it around the top and the bottom of the tensioner rail and snug them down. That will keep the tension on the chain so it doesn't pop off of a tooth up on the camshafts, and allow you to remove the tensioner without having any pressure pushing against it. All I can think of for now. LOL
PS, you can buy the crankshaft tool, the spacer and the other parts at shopdap.com for a decent price. Shipping is slow but their parts are all original Audi/VW OEM stuff.
Thanks for the quick response. I've been cruising the forums looking for somebody that has actually DIY'd this job so I could pick their brain. All this info is helpful. Awesome series of video's too.
Thanks! Man, I wish I had taken more time to record each step. I was in such a hurry though and it usually take two to three times longer when you video everything, LOL.
Hi, great videos, just wondering how you removed the serpentine tentioner?
Thanks! It's actually pretty complicated. I had to get the car up on jackstands, support the engine underneath and remove the motor mount on the passenger side. Then remove the front wheel and the inner wheel well on the passenger's side, and the charge tube going from the turbo to the intercooler. Then I had access to the tensioner and was able to replace it.
Great video 512KJT, working on one now for a friend and your video is extremely helpful. Do you recall what the torque specs were for the camshaft girdle? Thank you!
Thanks! If you're talking about the top cover with the 22 bolts in it, according to alldatadiy the manual shows 8Nm/5.9 ft lbs/70 in lbs. The sequence on these is to start in the middle row and work your way out alternating left and right. If you're talking about the cam bearing bridge that goes across the front of the engine and holds the intake and exhaust cams in place, those 6 bolts get torqued to 9Nm/6.7 ft lbs/80 in lbs. except the exhaust cam bolt which gets 8 Nm + an additional 90°(1/4) turn if it's an M6 (6mm thread size) bolt and 20 Nm + an additional 90°(1/4) turn if it's an M8 (8mm thread size). I didn't see any torque sequence on the camshaft bearing bridge, so I would start in the middle and work my way out. Be careful to make sure the bridge goes on straight, even and parallel with the ends of the camshafts. It should not bind when you're sliding it on. Good luck!
Thank you so much. Sounds like torque to yield so I better get new bolts. Thanks again.
Just to clarify, if I wanted to replace my chain eventually can I do it all just by removing the upper and lower timing chain covers?
Nope, if it was only that simple. You will need to remove the upper and lower covers, but you will also need to index the timing (get the engine to Top Dead Center or TDC on #1 cylinder), remove the intake cam timing valve actuator, remove the upper timing cover, remove the camshaft bridge, install the camshaft locking tools to keep the cams in time, remove the serpentine belt, remove the lower charge tube coming from the turbo going to the intercooler, loosen the serpentine belt tensioner and slide it out to access one of the lower timing cover bolts, remove the crankshaft pulley (requires a crankshaft pulley tool to hold the pulley while you remove the big crankshaft pulley bolt), immediately install the spacer on the crankshaft using the crankshaft bolt, then remove the tensioner, guide rails and the timing chain. Install new chain guides, new chain, new tensioner, cam bridge, new lower timing cover, crankshaft pulley, charge tube and the reinstall the upper cover and components. Long answer, but it will take more than just removing two covers and an old timing chain.
Thanks for the reply! You just wrote a whole DIY in paragraph form you're awesome!
Great Job! May I Ask what kind of back ground of experience do you have? I'm a ex Master Mechanic and my son's Audi A5 just bent the valves due to the failed tensioner/chain and this job looks very intimidating even for a guy like me that has extensive mechanical experience LOL. You have serious skills. My son and I just started the tear down. Wish us luck!
Thanks!!! I've been a shadetree mechanic since I was 15 and could only afford vehicles that needed repairs. I learned through experience, making mistakes and asking questions. Over the years as automobiles have gotten more complex I learned I needed to know a lot more about them if I was going to work on them. This job would have costed me $5k but learning and researching myself saved me $3500 in labor. The resources available now versus what was available in 1981 when I was replacing the turn signal switch on my $400 dollar Dodge van is a blessing. I hope you and your son are successful and if you have any questions, send me an email at huttex@gmail.com and I will surely help any way I can! GOOD LUCK!!!
Thanks!
Hey whats up man? I need help, i bought one and it had the same problem and i fixed all of them but it takes a lot to start idk what it could be and in your video you dont show what you moved in order to start it right up, is there anyway you can send me the little clip? I would really appreciate it.
Hey Ernesto, I had the ignition coils unplugged so I could crank the engine and build up oil pressure, since it had been sitting for so long and had drained some of the oil when I removed the head. All I did was plug the coils in and crank it and it started right up. Are all of your wiring harness plugs plugged back in?
Is there any trick to getting the cam bridge to go back on? Im having so much trouble and cant seem to get it to go back on the cams after swapping out chains
Hey Ryan, I had some difficulty due to the camshafts being pulled together by the tension from the timing chain, once the upper timing chin guide is installed. I used a round tee handle to spread the camshafts just enough to get the holes in the bridge to line up with the cams. Check out this video and he records the part where the cams are too close to allow the bridge to just slide on and he uses a screwdriver to move the exhaust cam over. ua-cam.com/video/jIbFLFeTu2Y/v-deo.html
Thanks for the reply! I actually ended up getting it on Sunday after watching that video and using the same method, but had to apply a lot more force. But your video and others were VERY helpful as reference in getting this job done. Thanks again
Did you get a p0011 code after running it for awhile?
No codes until a throttle position sensor error showed. Not related, though.
You're awesome DIY mechanic. I enjoyed watching your video very much. Thanks for sharing with the world of your knowledge on how to replace a VW timing chain. I had no idea of when VW starts replacing their cars with a timing chain until I just purchased a 2016 Golf. Now, after watching your video, it is kind of concern to me but I have a long way to go before I'll get this point. Lol. I am hoping VW has already address this timing chain issue? Does anyone have any knowledge for the 2016?
Wow, thank you very much for the compliment, I appreciate that! VW has redesigned this five times since the original and I have heard of any issues with the 2013 and later models. The motors are designed for 250,000 miles and the tensioners were not mentioned as maintenance items. Previously, VW used a timing BELT on these engines, which were maintenance items and had recommended replacement intervals. They redesigned the engines for chains to last the life of the engines but the tensioners are the weak link. When I removed all of the chains and guides for the repair at 120,000 miles, they all looked to be in really good shape.
Cool video really helpful. I have a 2009 Audi with the same motor getting ready to put together, hope it goes as well as your did so I don't have to throw my torque wrench through my window.haha. Did you do the final video on this?
I did a part 3 after driving for a few hundred miles. I've got 139,000 miles on it now, which is 37,000 later, and it's still running great. I did have to replace the water pump last week, though. I had an engine code pop up because the thermostat wouldn't get the engine to temp in a quick enough time and tried to replace just the stat and the housing. Turns out that VW has had 4 more revisions for this water pump and trying to find the correct stat and housing was getting to be a challenge. I just put the $50 towards the $275 I spent at shopdap.com for a new pump, belt and balancing shaft bolt. I should have replaced it when I did the top-end rebuild.
Hello i from french sorry for my bad english, i have one 2.0 tsi too, im already changing the valves because the chains is dead xD but after 1000km the motor dont start ( my brake pump bloqued the exhaust cameshaft and 2 valves broken).. after repair the valves and changing the brake pump m’y car didn’t start.. i dont understand i don’t have default code
And why when you want to start firstly the car he not started ?
Thanks
I do not know what your problem could be. There are many parts and wiring that has to go back and the timing can be very difficult to synchronize on this engine. My car didn't start immediately, because I left the ignition coils disconnected so I could just crank it without starting it.
512kjt Ow okey, now my car start, i find the probleme, when the brake pump bloked the exhaust valves cames, thé head of cames is turned on the cames.. i send you image if you want
Thanks
Great job!I got same car and one question,I got oil leak on timing chain gasket it is hard to exchange it for someone who is not mechanic ?
Thank you! Upper seal, easy with the right tools. Lower cover, difficult, because you have to remove the belt and crankshaft pulley along with the belt tensioner and other parts. Also there is no gasket, only gasket sealer, and the cover could bend or warp during removal.
512kjt thanks!just need to exchange top one :) what I need to remove to exchange it?
hey great video, im Jose
i have a 2010 gti with 130,xxx miles it rattles at start up and i too thought it was normal
but a week a go, on my birthday!!, i got some codes, i erased them to see if they re-appeared on my commute to work
they did it was the p0016 code
my car still turns on and runs, but im not using it for right now
could the problem be just the tensioner or is my chain stretched out now?
switching out the tensioner seems really doable but doing the chains does seem like a task ill have to research a lot
but i did do a valve cleaning and switched out the intake manifold on my own and im studying to be a mechanical engineer so i will tackle it on so do u have any tips or links that you think would really help me?
Great Job, i am doing this on my B6 - question for you after you set all the timing marks did you crank it by hand to see if the marks match after rotation?
thx
Thanks George! I did actually crank the engine by hand to make sure all was in time and there were no clashes with the valves and the pistons. The thing that I did learn was that it takes several full rotations for all of the timing marks to come back around where the pulley mark lines up with the mark on the timing cover and the two camshafts line up with the colored links in the timing chain. I think it's actually eight revolutions, one each for the intake and exhaust stroke for each cylinder. When I got mine assembled I rolled it and kept turning and turning and it seemed like the timing parks wouldn't line up, but after about 15 minutes of turning one revolution at a time, they all lined back up again.
Thank you for clarifying it - i thought i was loosing my mind, i kept spinning and getting either one tooth behind or one tooth advanced - but after i read you r message i kept spinning for another 40 revolutions and bam - dead on the marks
Awesome!!! Yeah, I couldn't believe how many times it had to roll over for everything to line back up again. LOL It was such a relief when they all lined back up, huh? I kept watching them be three off, four off, one off, etc and I was thinking I pooched something. These little engines are tricky little bastards, haha.
Good job :)
I have a TSI with old tensioner. So I listen carefuly :/
Thank you! You should consider getting you tensioner replaced, though. There is no indicator for when these fail and even though it isn't a cheap repair, it's much less expensive than what could happen if it fails catastrophically. Good luck and thanks for watchin!
hey neighbor. Thinking about buying one of these with a busted timing, What your first suggestion, What I should expect??
Howdy! Be prepared to spend the money on a solid junkyard engine in the event the one is the car is trashed. I was able to get the top end rebuilt done and the tensioner upgrade with chain and guide replacements only because the bottom end was still solid and I knew I had kept it maintained for all of the time I had it. Check the oil dipstick for water. Crank the engine by hand if possible. If not bump it slowly to make sure it will turn. If it's already jumped time, the damage was done on the first revolution after it happened, so cranking it over a rotation or two isn't going to hurt it anymore than it already is. Also, check the rest of the car and the mileage. The resale value on these cars is TERRIBLE and even if you do get it running, be prepared for a low residual value because of all of the lumps VW has taken lately.
" Great job, Im gonna attempt to do this on a 09 Audi A4 2.0Turbo , Could you give a list of parts and specialty tools whered you get them id appreciate it thanks !!
Check out Part 3! I go over the project and discuss some of the tools I purchased and some things I discovered when I completed it. Thanks for watchin!
Question.
What did the machine shop did to the head?
Vat clean, verify warpage with a straight edge, disassemble, remove bent valves, lap in new valves (used VW valves), reassemble, re-confirm surface with straight edge.
Great hands , you mastered it wanna do my 2000 vw passat ha, ha, ha ..... Great video
haha! Thanks! The first time doing something is always the hardest, for sure. Thanks for watchin!
512kjt. I have a 2000 vw passat with a new starter, battery, camshaft sensor i been driving it and started to stal and a bad smell its not leaking fluids. But cranks but no start. Any leads you might suggest.
I just brought the Same car and the engine light came on and started stalling and engine started rattling , could it be the Same problem you had and it rattled too.
I have heard that what you're describing could be a symptom of an engine that has jumped time. You should get the car diagnosed with a code reader and look for issues like incorrect camshaft positioning or misfires. This could indicate that one or both of the cams has jumped a tooth. Mine used to rattle on start-up and I thought it was normal. It doesn't do it anymore since the repair. Thanks for watchin and good luck!
Thank you , I'll take it in.
Good luck!
I'm having an issue where my intake cam's VVT isnt adjusting properly at low RPM's when the engine is warm, and I suspect that my Cam Bridge may be at fault... can I remove the bridge without messing up the timing, or will I have to relieve tension in order to remove and re install my bridge? Also what resource did you use to find all the proper torque specs and procedures? I can't find anything online 😕 thanks man!
Zaya, yes you can replace the cam bridge without affecting the timing. Have you verified the actuator is energizing and the electromagnet is functional before you replace the cam bridge? It really only supports the ends of the camshafts and provide oil to the upper journals for lubrication. In case you still need to replace it, you will need the special removal tool to get the intake camshaft actuator valve off though, and remember the collar is reverse threads so you will need to turn it clockwise to loosen it. Your cams will be held in place by the head and the upper valve cover. The cam bridge provides rigidity and a bearing surface at the end of the cam shaft to hold them stable during operation, but they won't move as long as you don't loosen the upper cover. Just be sure you remove the cam bridge straight and reinstall it straight when you put it back on. I bought a subscription to a website called alldatadiy.com. It was good for one year and I think it was around $50. All of the torques specs I needed, I found in there.
512kjt man you're a life saver, I can't thank you enough. How would one verify the adjuster magnet is working? Without just replacing it I guess
512kjt sorry to bother, but does Alldatadiy.com have the procedure for replacing the timing chain tensioner?
Yes, it does! It probably even has the test procedure for the timing adjuster. I'll check and get back with you.
It does have the procedure. First are the basic things like checking the fuse and power at the fuse block. Next it shows how to check the actuator itself and what the resistance values should be and then there are some values to check with the harness. If you want to DM me an email address I can send you a PDF of the printout from the site. It'll give you an idea of what is available on the site.
I have a question, will the belt rotate all the pulleys if the motor is seized??
Nope, not at all. If the engine is seized, the crankshaft pulley will not move. Period.
Im having the exact problem you are havin my car its not starting.the change its strectched out
That's too bad. It's definitely not an easy fix. Good luck!
What would you charge me if I brought one to you to rebuild?
It really all depends on the damage done. To do one similar to mine you're looking at around $2,200-$2,500. I was able to salvage my engine and rotating assembly. If there is piston damage, you're better off replacing the engine with a salvage motor. They are going for around $3,000 right now from what I can tell.
where is located the crankshaft sensor 4 that car.. I can't find it.
It it's the Engine Speed Sensor (I think it is) it is located on the intake side of the engine. You have to remove the black plastic charge pipe bolted to the side of the engine that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body. Once that is out of the way, the sensor is in between the two coolant hoses coming off of the water pump, close the were the engine and transmission case meet and just to the left of the starter.
512kjt thanks buddy. was waiting for the reply I ready have the car jacked up...
You bet, sorry for the slow response! Is your car front wheel drive or rear wheel drive?
alicat zuma
You bet, sorry for the slow response! Is your car front wheel drive or rear wheel drive?
512kjt it's a 2009 vw cc 4 cilinders 2.0 front wheel drive.!
There should be a 62cm gab on cams
Do mine next. I'm at this point right now! Currently taking it a part to correct that timing issue. Jumped timing. Not sure if there is any head damage as yet. Any suggestions?
I would try to get it back in sync on the timing, before replacing any parts, disconnect the ignition coils and crank it slowly to see if you have compression on all four cylinders. Make sure the timing is correct before you crank it though!
@@512kjt Thank you. The only parts I'm thinking about replacing as of now are the timing chains, tensioner, chain guides...Will determine if guides are good as soon as I get the lower chain cover off
I replaced the guides on the main timing chain and the balancing shaft chain, but I didn't change the oil pump guide and spring, since it didn't come with the kit I got from shopdap.com. There is a second tensioner for the balancing shaft chain lower down on the left side in the front if the engine. I replaced that one too.
@@512kjt That's exactly where I'm getting the kit. Kinda pricey but still cheaper than some places. Thinking of getting the lower cover too. Saw oil build up outside that area from the previous owner. Just going to do it right the 1st time and call it a day
it would have been better to replace the oil pump because the pump pressure was insufficient and you had to change the arm bearings upper upper lower was weak
Probably should have replaced it, but it's fine. I've put another 40,000 miles on it, and it's still running strong. Fit and finish of the car overall is bad but the engine is running great. Thanks for watchin!
holy fuck your a life saver. Rebuilding my audi a4 2009 which is basically the same engine. Thanks for the tips!
Haha! Thanks dude. They are literally same engine. I have Audi emblems all over my VW engine. LOL How is it coming along?
Just bought all my gaskets and seals with new valves. Ended up buying an test pipe for it too just so i can go stage 2 with the car with an awe exhaust system. I'll prob make a video on the whole project so i'll let you know!
Awesome! I have a subscription to alldatadiy.com and it had a decent service manual for this engine. I think a one year subscription was about $50 bucks but I've used it a bunch of times. Just used it this past weekend to replace the water heater. I'll be throwing up a vid on that in the next day or two, I hope. It'll be cool to see that test pipe in action.
How much did it cost parts and tools?
Right around $1,500.00
What brand is the diagnostic tool for your iPhone
Hey Dennis! Sorry, I thought I replied to this earlier! I use an app on my iPhone called OBD Fusion. I think it was about $10. The ODBII adapter I'm using is a VEEPEAK. I got it off of Amazon here www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPW6BAE/ref=oh_aui_bia_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It was $17.99 plus a couple of bucks for shipping. It transmits a wireless signal and you just set the wireless on your phone to the OBD tool and done, no cables. I have found though, that if you leave the adapter plugged in for a couple of days, it will run down the battery in the car because it's always transmitting the wireless signal. I've used it on
'97 Tahoe
'96 Camaro
'06 Volvo S40
'05 Infiniti G35
'09 VW CC
'01 Chevy Silverado
'08 Saturn Outlook
All OBDII and I didn't have any connection issues. I've been able to read codes on all of them.
512kjt thank you so much I have been trying to find one to work with my wife's 2012 eos with the same engine as yours
Old school intro