2009 Volkswagen CC TSI 2.0 Cam Chain Tensioner Failure. Top-end DIY! Part 3- Finale
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- She's all back together. Took me a while to get to the final edit on this video but I've put 2500 miles on it since the repair and it's running fine. A little info on tools and other stuff.
Great job! My 2010 Passat 2.0L TSI needs timing chain done. Fortunately, it failed (tensioner) when I was trying to start the car and wasn't driving. Your videos will be of great help.
This was a fun series to watch. I hope I will have the balls to do something like this if a problem arises. Keep up the great work!
LOL Thanks! I wish I had done a better job of recording, but I was so nervous about this I was trying to focus on the task. It was a matter of money for me. I still owed about $7k on this car when it broke down and the shop estimates for the work were $3,500-$5,000 and I didn't want to put that kind of money into a car I was still paying on. :-0
Great job KT, I know it feels great to accomplish something like this. You did an amazing job!
Thank you Sam! Yeah, this one was a challenge!
You did an amazing job on that car dude. I am very impressed at how you jumped into that. Good job on the creative work on the tools to get them to work too. Keep up the good work! I do hope the El Co gets some love soon though :)
Thanks buddy! If you're impressed, I'm doin something right! I'll tell ya, when it's 12:00AM and you're down to the last head bolt, you start getting creative, fo sho! El Co love comin up! Always good to hear from ya!
Nice job man. I really enjoyed your spin on this!
Ayy thanks! And thanks for watchin!
Great instructions , I have 2009 VW passat vagon . on highway by mistake knock the shiftier to neutral and put back to drive around 100 km. instrument cluster all indicator light on and stop engine , now no turn or start engine , I try the crank pulley by handle something is locking. not turning clockwise or counterclockwise, with your experience please give suggestion what is wrong with engine. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. It's always good to see old school mechanics working on some of the newer stuff. You're definitely right that the modern I4 DOHC direct injected engines are more complex, with parts being more expensive. With that said, the TSI engines sure are fun and efficient. Let us know if you have any oil leaks from the valve cover/cam bridge area, I don't think I could bring myself to buy a $150 tube of the special VW green slime when super grey would work. And I'm not really sure why the cam caps/ cam bridge are build into the valve cover, seems like a bad design. I've seen guys replace their entire engine because of timing chain tensioner failure, and I can't but shake by head when they could have just done a top end rebuild. You mentioned a tool kit that you bought for $169, where'd you get it? Thanks!
Hey Easy Rider! Sorry for the slow reply :-/ I'm with you on the cam caps... seems like they're left over from a different design or are for a future design. Definitely appear to be an afterthought. 13,000 miles so far and not a drop of oil anywhere. There is something surely different about this sealant. It's like a silicone gasket maker and gasket adhesive all in one. And I got the tool kit here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QDQJVP0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks for watching and commenting!
KT I'd like you to get back to your El Camino to see how you approach the bed area. I finished mine and while I didn't video it (have yet to get the camera and software), I did take a ton of photos and some are posted on my website in Blog format so that people can see how I did what I did. Starting on my 1970 Chevelle SS now - body isn't too bad, but taking it to bare metal, fixing the rust and will be painting it soon in my temporary spray booth I've put up in my garage.
Keep at it buddy
Hey Dane! I'll have to head on over to check out your pics at www.beldenspeed.com. I'm trying to get my Monte Carlo into epoxy primer to stop the rust and I'm about a third of the way there, then I can get back on my '69. I at least got it started again and drove it around the property!
You are a busy guy so I completely understand. By the way, on my website is a free PDF download on how to make patch panels for the rear window corners that are usually rusted out and not reproduced. Not sure how yours are, but it might be of help. It's under the Technical Center / Downloads page.
I had to make them for my 1970 Chevelle that I am doing and that rear window is the same as the one for the Monte Carlo so the geometry is very similar. I have made some for a guy with a first gen Monte Carlo and they seem to work well. Also make new window channels which are not reproduced either.
I media blasted my 1970 Chevelle to bare metal and was lucky to get Epoxy on it quick. It's now ready for one last primer/surfacer coat, final block and I can get color on it - that is if it gets below 95 degrees.
Keep swinging KT
;) you da man Kenny lol I can't wait to see you back on the elcaminos. I have been buying parts for the Chevelle, Grill,Stainless steel trim mirrors, emblems etc so she is coming together. ;) Later bro!
Thanks Cary! I hope you'll show us another video soon! I'm gettin back on the El Co this weekend. At least getting 'em running and ready to move around. Thanks for stickin around, I enjoy your company :-)
Great Series!
After the timing was done, did you notice your engine having more power???
Yes I did, much more!
I just have to thank you!
No problem! And thank you for watchin my video! Hope it helped!
l'm sure I wasn't the only viewer who was thrilled for you when it started the first time and ran so smoothly. Your exuberance was awesome! I'm considering doing the same thing on my Tiguan, considering my VW shop quoted $8K to do a complete rebuild. Two questions: would you do it again? and who's the naked guy getting in the beer fridge at 4:57?
I appreciate you celebrating with me! I put so many hours into reading up on it, searching for any tips I could find (there are virtually none out there on how to do this) plus all the money I had spent, I was a nervous wreck. I would have been crushed had it not worked out but when it started right up I was stoked.
One... yes I would do it again.
And Two... LOL! That's my wife sporting her short haircut and a yellow colored shirt. :-D
That sucks about your Tiguan. Why are they wanting to do a complete rebuild? Did it trash the cylinder walls and pistons when it went?
Oops! Tell her I'm sorry about that. If it's any consolation, I got a kick out of how happy she was when you fired up the CC.I think the VW shop is estimating on the high side. They are very good, and happy to do the work, but that's a lot of cabbage. I think only one cylinder and piston is bad. It was a low RPM failure that happened while pulling away from a red light. I went ahead and tried to restart it but the motor locked up when it turned over. When the timing chain failed, the top of a valve popped off and it is obstructing the full throw of the piston. I knew what it was as soon as it happened - you could hear the chain links just sliding into a pile. Only after reading through the internet did I find out how common the problem was. It's really frustrating; I would have changed out the tensioner if I had known the risk. I love the Tiguan, but it's parked for now.
Hah! No worries :-) And you're right, that is a huge amount of cabbage. That sucks that it caused so much damage, and it's a terrible sound the hear all of that clatter in the engine. I got lucky with mine. Pistons were fine with some slight indentions where the valves made very light contact. And I'm with you on the risk. I never knew it was an issue until my car died. Then I got PISSED because there was no warning, tech bulletin, etc when VW KNEW this was an issue due to the failure rate. I surely would have replaced mine if I had known that rattling sound was due to a bad tensioner and not a regular occurrence.
Great work and vid KT
Thank you, Sir! I appreciate ya!
Great video!!! By chance my passat was running great no rattle nothing . So 3 days ago I stop to put gas. when I went to start my car I would not start. I had no codes before. Is there any chance my timing chain jumped when turn it off. it just cranks does not start. check the chain seems like tensioner failed. Could I have maybe not bended the valve by luck since it happened when I turned off??
Yes, it is possible. I've seen multiple posts where people have described exactly what happened to you. They turn the car off and when they try to restart it, it will crank and sounds like it has compression, but it won't start and run. If that happened to your car, it is very likely that it only slipped time one or two teeth and that is not enough to damage valves or pistons. Have you taken it to a shop yet?
Going to replace tensioner and adjust timing. But I'm doing everything myself. I work on cars mainly Nissan/datsun. But after checking everything. I notice the chain had slight play. Just was not sure if it was possible to not have bend the valves. Thank you very much for the info. Great help. Happy new year.
nice work i know that was a tuff job going in blind but you did it.
Thanks Hanson! Always feels good comin out of something like this with positive results. Just like you and that beautiful ol' house of yours. Lookin good, friend!
great Video, I am working on the same issue. though I am winging it and doing just the timing chain, not the head. I recently put everything back together. chain lined up on all the marks, and I watched your video again and again. and I noticed that your crankshaft mark is at about 6 to 7 clock. mine is sitting at 5 to 6. so I cranked the crank shaft just a bit and the cylinder wants to go down. so back at 5 to 6 clock. would you happen to know what I am doing wrong, I have pics if need be,
Hey zoli, sorry for the late reply. Were you able to determine what happened? By what you're describing, it sounds like the lower timing gear turned on the crankshaft. Do you have the spacer on the crankshaft and the bolt installed to hold all of it nice and tight? Did you install the bolt and the spacer immediately after removing the crankshaft pulley to prevent the gears from falling out of sync? Finally, and I only ask this because it is a possibility, are you on the #1 cylinder and how are you able to tell if the piston is at TDC?
I’m preparing for my CC V6s timing chain to be done, expected to be 3-5,000nzd. It’s only done like 85,000miles.
OUCH! Sorry to hear that. I haven't hears about any issues with the V6. Good luck!
You did a great job! I was wondering my 2009 VW cc 2.0t is not starting and is tossing a p0014 any way you can make a video showing the location of the vvt solenoid, I had some really dirty oil and I wanted to check the conditions of that, it would help so much
I will see if I can't get something up this evening, if I can get some time. If you open the hood and stand at the passenger side front fender and look at the engine, you are facing the front of the engine. The black plastic cover on top in the front of the engine is the upper timing chain cover. The intake cam is behind that cover on the right and there is a circular gold colored part just to the left of the dipstick. That is the VVT valve actuator. It has a two or three wire terminal plug connected to it.
Great video!! I heard you mention in the video you cost of tools and cost of parts...And it sounded like you had tons of hours of research and time on VW forums, etc...
Did you ever mention how many hours you had into physically wrenching?
Thank you! I probably put around 20 hours total into the job, from engine cover off to engine cover back on. The manual shows 17 hours for a cylinder head replacement for a factory tech, and I also replaced the tensioners and timing components, so that probably accounts for the additional time it took me.
Thanks for the video man!
I bought a cc 2010 2.0t,
When I put de scanner it was showing me 2 codes p0341 "camshaft sensor" , both for the same code, one it was showing as "saved" and the other on "permanent" when a changed the camshaft sensor, it only disappeared the saved one, the permanent its still showing in the scanner, the car starts fine, when I'm about to drive the car I feel it like a very small poor drive, then runs fine, and it shows me on the screen "service engine soon", any idea what could be 😞
You bet! The permanent codes usually can't be reset by a code scanner or tool or disconnecting the battery. Those codes are embedded in the memory and will only be cleared after a certain number of cycles or amount of runtime after the problem is corrected. In your case, if the new sensor corrected the problem, the only thing that will clear the permanent code will be operating the vehicle for the required amount of time for the ECM or PCM to reset itself. If the problem persists, the car may have jumped time by one tooth on one of the camshafts and the variable valve timing on the intake cam may be compensating for the miss, which could be the cause of the poor performance. How many miles/km are on the car? Has the tensioner been serviced previously? Did you purchase the car with the issue or did it happen since you've had it?
I bought the car about 3 weeks ago, so it was already with that code, miles it has like 153xxx, so I'm not hundred percent sure if the previous owner make that tensioner change ☹
Mine failed at 120,000 miles, so it may be your tensioner. I would be cautious about driving it too much before getting it checked out. If the tensioner fails, you could end up with a destroyed engine. Does the same code keep coming on or is there a different one? Oil level is full? Any cylinder misfire codes?
@@512kjt yes it only the same code, oil it's ok, just it's weird Because some times, the low oil pressure appears after a drive it about 30 o 40 minutes 😔
@@512kjt no cylinder misfired, only that p0341 code ☹
I'm doing the same work. Where did you find the torque specs for the head?
I subscribed to alldatadiy.com. It's an annual subscription to the technical/service manual.
@@512kjt They didn't have the repair information. But I googled "workshop manual GOLF mk6 cdaa Chain drive" and came into a page that had several workshop manual. So I copied the manuals I needed and inserted into word. Thanks for your videos anyhow. You helped me a lot.
How long would it take simply to replace the timing chain & associated parts diy in the driveway? I've done timing belts before but my 2011 GTi is the first chain.
It all depends on your mechanical ability and whether you have the right tools. I made my fair share of trips to get this and that while doing the top-end. If you have the camshaft locking tools, the crankshaft pulley tool, the correct triple-square bits and all the parts on hand it can be done in a day, probably less. The first time always takes the longest because you're discovering all of the bolt locations, which parts need to be removed for access, how to remove those parts, etc. Doing it myself once, I can easily say I could cut the time in half and have a new set on and the car fired up in about 4 hours.
Did you replace the bolts for the Cambridge with new ones or did you reuse them?
I reused mine, but the manual calls for new. The torque values are so low though, I just couldn't see how that minimal amount of torque would stretch them beyond the first use. Still good 50,000 mile later. Thanks for watchin!
@@512kjtthanks! My VW dealer wanted $3 per bolt. But I'm thinking of re-use them as well.
Youch! Yeah, I think if they had their way they would have you replace them all. The only ones I replaced were the head bolts. I reused the rest. I've probably been lucky though. LOL These bolts only take 9 Nm and the only bolt the alldatadiy.com service manual says to replace is the exhaust cam bolt and it's 8 Nm for an M6 bolt and 20 Nm for an M8 bolt. Mine was neither. It had the same bolt as the cam bridge, only shorter.
@@512kjtisn't the bolts for the Cambridge 8Nm + 90°? Two step tightening
Doesn't show that in the manual. Only 2 step I see on the upper front is the exh cam bolt. It's also the only one that shows to be replaced after use. *shrug*
Cheers . Time to kick back and enjoy the success . Oops until the next project !!! Your experience with this nightmare is really money in the bank . congrat. Question , did you pull the head with intake and exhaust manifolds attached ? Thank you very much .
Hey mayhar, cheers and thanks! I removed the exhaust manifold from the head and left it in place with the turbo connected so I didn't have to worry about the coolant lines and fittings for it. I did remove the downpipe to get me the flexibility I needed to get me clearance I needed to get the head off. I also remove the intake as well.
God bless the good man and your family as well , did you use cam shafts locking tool ? which tool set you recommend, My car 2008 2.0 TSI IS taking our space I have to move it in 10 days , without your mentoring tutorial videos I would not dare to touch it , As soon as I get the tools , I start working on it , Thank you you very very much .
thank you very much mahyar, and God bless you and yours as well! Yes, I did use the cam locking tools, it's a must have. I used a kit off of amazon. Mine came from a different supplier but it's the same one. a.co/5vgi8g4
Also, alldatadiy.com has a service manual subscription for about $40, I think. I used it quote a bit. The web interface isn't very intuitive, but all of the information is in there.
Thank you very much again your work will help thousands . I was looking for tutorial like yours ,none of them were at yours level . I tried many keywords in 2 weeks until I found yours . Pictures , sounds, videos especially prepared in 3 parts were great . Best wishes . Thank you very much .
Thank you very much, and GOOD LUCK!!!
you are a big fun to watch. .as a pro tech myself I've done 4 of this and in the process of my 5th when i saw your vid..guess what i still learn something.. The Head i always bolted straight to the engine block then mount the cams the top cover piece afterwards so safe having to use the modified torx bit.. And aside from the v8 Xdrive bmw this is a back breaker..
getting this done in the house garage without lifts..you are a son of a GUN
Haha!! Thanks Magic Wand, I appreciate the comment! Thanks for watching and take care!!!
I've got 2.0 tsi with a similar issue. Are you selling the tools you used? I'm in 512 also.
I tell ya, I'm not sure. If I didn't have the car anymore I would, but I'll always be worried about this and that I might need them again :-/ Sucks feeling that way, but hey that's what happens when you own one of these cars LOL. Do you have the 2.0 TSI engine? I don't have a problem if you want to borrow them?
Hi there, I’m in the process of changing the chain Tensioners out.. will be removing the head to have carbon valve job done. I Am wondering, how exactly did you separate the turbo from manifold/ manifold from head?
Any advice is Much appreciated!
I disconnected the downpipe at the turbo and left the turbo connected to the exhaust manifold. Once the downpipe was disconnected and the exhaust manifold bolts/nuts were removed, there was enough play to move the turbo and the exhaust manifold back to get the head out. There is a bracket coming off of the turbo that bolts to the engine that has to be removed as well. To get the exhaust manifold out I had to remove the heat shield to get to the exhaust bolts and nuts. There are nine studs with nuts, five across the top and four across the bottom that have angle wedges on them. Here is a pic of the manifold so you have an idea of wht's back there. photos.app.goo.gl/JfU9fKJoKQ9r0hm43
512kjt thanks so much buddy! Really appreciate it!
Oh almost forgot.. Did you have to remove the oil and coolant lines to the turbo?
Thanks again!
Nope, I left them connected and they were flexible enough to allow the turbo to move.
512kjt I found that out last night haha I am one to remove as few bolts/nuts as possible. All in all got the head off last night thanks to your video and speedy reply.. Again, much appreciated!
Hello there! I have an audi a3 2009 that has an engine code p0341 (camshaft sensor error) and my oil pressure signal on the dash keeps on showing up intermittently on a low rpm and a slight jerk movement when accelerating. Ive been told to fix my timing chain and tensioner and I am willing to fix it myself if this would get my car to 100%. my question is, can I use your video to be my guide? btw, awesome video man! More power to you!
Hi John! Thank you for the nice compliment! If your A3 has the 2.0 TSI engine, it is the same one that is in my car, so the repair procedure would be the same. Your oil pressure light showing up has me concerned, though. If it is low on oil, that is an obvious cause for the light to come on. The other possibility is an oil pressure issue that could be caused by a failing oil pump or worn engine components. Adequate oil pressure is critical to the proper functioning of the tensioner, and if oil pressure is lost or weak, the tensioner loses its hydraulic effect. The resulting slack could allow the cams to jump time. The reason for concern is that you could go through all of the cost and effort to do a cam timing chain, tensioner and guide replacement and have the same problem reoccur, if the oil pressure isn't sufficient enough to keep the tensioner tight. This makes your issue more complicated than mine, so I'm not sure what direction you should go in. If I had the same issue, I would replace the cam timing chain and guides, oil pump chain and guide, oil pump, and cam timing chain tensioner. There is also a balancing shaft chain, tensioner and guide rail. This is a very technical job and it will require some specialized tools and access to a repair manual unless you have knowledge of the TSI timing synchronization steps. I spent about $200 on tools alone, to do the work you see in the video.
512kjt my goodness gracious. sounds like i should be ready to spend a lot of money. lol i will do my research and check all components you have mentioned. thank you so much!
You are very welcome, John. I hope all is going well!
Did you replace the cam bridge?
No sir. Just reused the one I had. There are plenty out on the market now and the prices have dropped dramatically, so I would probably replace it now, if I had it all to do over again.
Hi enjoyed the video. Q. I'm looking to change my head gasket on my tsi engine. Do I need to take off time chain to accomplish this?
Thank you!
Yes, it has to come off. The head bolts are torque-to-yield, so those will also need to be replaced, along with some other bolts, gaskets, etc. Did someone perform the diagnosis on the head gasket and determine it needed to be replaced?
@@512kjt No! I suspect the head gasket hasn't been replaced since car first bought. However I have concerns there is a tiny trickle of oil coming from the head gasket onto the back between the exhaust manifold and just trying to eliminate all possibilities. I also sometimes have an engine light that comes up on some occasions reading misfire in no.1 cylinder. Was going to have a mechanic to check the timing chain and all its family components. Any suggestions?
A head gasket won't cause an oil leak, but a valve cover gasket will. What year is your car and how many miles/kms does it have on it?
@@512kjt 2012-13 model
@@512kjt 179000ks
cool fix
Thanks Robert! How are things over at RobsPackanShine?
good here...riding the bike alot this summer. over 1200 miles just around town
Good to hear!
I've never worked on a VW and I know why. LOL Cheers..
It's a LOVE/HATE thing for sure LOL! Thanks for stoppin in! Cheers!
No sir its the first time....
It is very critical to make sure all of the timing components are indexed and synchronized. The colored links on the chains must line up exactly with the marks on the gears. As you can see there are two gears for the camshafts and those have to be aligned with the colored links, and the lower crankshaft must be lined up with its colored link. Here is a link to a pic of how these are supposed to line up. If your timing chain and gears are lined up exactly as they are in this pic, goo.gl/images/YGmAou you're lower crankshaft gear may have rotated on the crankshaft when you had everything removed. The gear only lines up one way on the surface of the crankshaft, but the interlocking surfaces between the crankshaft and the back of the gear are very subtle.
Sir...i have a VW cc and the tension has been replaced and new valves...but now it doesnt build the compression .....but the other thing is i havent installed the manifold back due to the gasket i forgot back home and its about 600 kilometres...so please advice...
Hey Collin, it sounds like you're camshaft timing is off, if it won't build compression. The timing is critical and if it jumps time you will need to remove the crankshaft pulley, front timing chain cover, upper timing chain cover and cam bearing bridge and get it all synchronized again. Have you already had the front opened up before?
Has anyone taken off the oil filter bracket and oil cooler? need to replace gaskets? Thanks!
Sorry, I haven't.
Did the Audi bend the valves? I had an older one I looked at for a customer. With the same problem both camshafts needed to be replaced. But the customer didn't want it fixed.
I actually bent all 8 exhaust valves and 6 out of 8 intake valves. Luckily, my machine shop guy had a kid bring in a junkyard motor that he wanted to build up, so his valves were going to be replaced with some high dollar aftermarket valves. He spec'd the valves that came out and they were all almost perfect. He was able to lap them in and only charged me $75 for the used valves. VW wanted $680 for 16 new valves.
And on your customer's car, OUCH! Both camshafts? Man, the intake cam is about $650 and the exhaust cam is about $275. Thank the car Gods my cams were okay. You're talking $900 for a reman head, $1000 for camshafts, at least $500 for valves and another $900 for all new timing components plus labor. That's going to be a HUGE bill just for a top-end.
Specialty tools... If you are like my brother, he buys them, uses them, and then sells them. lol He did that with a hose crimper for A/C lines when he swapped a 6.0 LQ4 in to a 93 Camaro. I wish he kept the kit because I will probably need one for my project. I keep everything even if I'm never going to use them again.
I'm so tempted to do that but I always think I'll need them again for something. LOL I guess why I've got so much crap hangin around. Peace!
thanks for the videos....i dropped a valve and threw a rod on my 09 tiguan. I got a replacement engine and starting the disassembly for rebuild. I looked at your videos for tools to help on head disassembly. Im just beginning this project...long ways to go....has to be done
just bought a 2010 tiguan and I'm afraid of this happening to me would you recommend me changing the timing chain tensioner to prevent this. do you know what my chances are of tensioner failure
Raziel, if you are the original owner, and the tensioner has not been upgraded, and you have a lot of miles on the car, I would replace it. I would say the chances are very high that it may fail and I base that on the fact that the two videos I've done have gotten over It is definitely a maintenance item that should be replaced before failure. If you are not the original owner, see if you can find out the history on the vehicle and figure out if it's been replaced. Sometimes a Carfax history report will show this kind of repair, and you can also contact a local VW dealer and have them run the VIN number for repair records on it. It isn't cheap to have it replaced, but it is MUCH LESS expensive to do that than potentially a whole new engine.
I'm not original owner and I've review the carfax it has not been updated but I will be inspecting it my self for the part no.. I and my friend have mechanical experience do you think it would be wise for us to update the tensioner also what would be in my way if I do it my slef
Its a pretty technical job with some critical steps that must be followed to prevent the timing from jumping out of synch during the repair. I know what my abilities are, so I felt like this was something I could accomplish, but I will admit I was very intimidated. Whether you feel that you can accomplish it or if you take it to a shop, will be up to you. I would recommend www.shopdap.com for your parts and tools, just because they were very helpful on my project and their prices are very competitive. If you go here shopdap.com/store/make-model-year/volkswagen/tiguan/2009-2011/tsi-timing-chain-tensioner-service-kit.html you will see a page that has a tensioner upgrade kit and a video that shows where the tensioner is and how to check if it's the old design. I can say that it you proceed with the replacement you will need to purchase the cam timing kit that has a large crankshaft pulley tool you will need when you remove the crankshaft pulley. You will have to remove the charge pipe from the front of the engine that runs from the turbo to the intercooler, the serpentine belt, the serpentine belt tensioner, the gravel shield (plastic pan under the front of the car, the inner fender will on the passenger side as well as the passenger side front wheel. I recommend a jack and jackstands to get the car up off the ground to make it a little easier to get to everything. The most important aspect of this repair is to keep constant tension on the timing chain to prevent it from becoming loose and allowing one, or both, of the camshafts to jump a tooth on the chain while it's loose. Also very important is to install the spacer tool using the crankshaft bolt IMMEDIATELY after removing the crankshaft pulley, to prevent the lower timing gears from sliding outward on the crankshaft and jumping out of time. Check as many forums as you can to look for pictures, read threads and watch as many videos as you can on the 2.0 TSI engine timing issue.
i took of t he shield off check i have the n part # i got quoted 950 for replacemnt at my local vw specialst shop with 3year 36k mile warrenty better than the dealers 1 year 12 k warrenty they were recomended by pepboys do you think price for that is good 950 parts and labor and tax i have an appointment for 2mrw
512kjt the reason im considering paying the 950 is the warrenty and also they said the y would check the guides chain for streching but thats a double edge sowrd the could just tell me the chain streched or guides ate worn for more money what would you recomend 3 year 35k warrenty and they check the componets can i get an opinion
I would reccomend everyone who has the old tensioner to get i replaced as soon as possible even when you don't have a problem with it.
Best advice out there!! Thanks for the comment.
I'm thinking about buying a
09 Tiguan 2.0T. Do you think I need to stay away from it? It's really clean inside and out. I'm going to see if the lot will let me check to see if it has the new tensioner. Also how bad is the carbon buildup on these motors and what's the possible problems? Thanks in advance, Jason
That's a tough one Jason. I would say it depends on the mileage and asking price. If the tensioner has not been upgraded, and you really want this car just set aide $500 - $700 to have it replaced if you buy it, or ask the lot to work with you on the price, so you can have it done.
Carbon build-up is an issue with the TSI engine because of the direct injection design. It needs to be done every 50k miles or so. Water pumps are issues with these engines too (I replaced mine at 125k) and now my rear main seal is leaking at 163k. It's really too bad, because I love the look of these cars, but the quality of the parts used to manufacture them just fall short. Resale value on them is terrible as well, because of the TSI engine.
Thank you for your videos, helped me learn a couple things about my car. I have a 2012 GTI that had the cam bridge screen fail now this is my only concern with my car. I do not have the updated tensioner but my local dealer was against me getting it changed, he said that if I get proper oil changes with the proper oil and filter then I won’t have a problem. Not to sure about his opinion on this matter, there is a warranty out for the tensioner now but since I tuned my car and added a cold air intake they will deny me for any warranties. I tried with the intake manifold warranty a couple months back. Should I go ahead and get it changed or stick with proper oil changes. Thank you for any input!
From what I recall, VW changed over to the newest version of the infamous cam chain tensioner in 2012, so yours may have the newest version. The dealer may have been able to ascertain that your car wouldn't be affected by the defective version based on your VIN and date of manufacture. Go here timingchainlitigation.com/ and enter your VIN to see if your car is affected. The list states "Certain 2008-2012 GTI" so this may help. The website also provides details on the terms of the lawsuit and settlement relief. Good Luck and thanks for watchin!
@@512kjt Hi. I have a 2013 VW Eos that wasn't included in the infamous "tensioner failure" according to the VIN. My car now has 68,xxx miles and I just had to have my timing chain system changed. I was getting the 5 second rattle at start-up as well. The engine ran fairly well but was noisy and lacked the pep that it once had. Now after having it changed the engine sounds sooo much better and there is definitely a increase in performance. I read somewhere that VW stopped using the bad tensioners in June or July of 2012 but I wonder if they used up their stocks of that tensioner because my car was built in September of 2012 as a 2013 model. The CC is a beautiful car and I hope you still have yours and it's doing ok. Sorry for this long response and thanks for the video.
Would you change the water pump while doing this repair? thanks for these videos
Yes I would. I didn't do it when I had everything apart and regretted a short time later when it went out. Thanks for watchin!