Prusik climb out of a Crevasse - HD
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- A four-man rope team heading down from the summit of Mount Rainier suffers a mishap. A snow bridge collapses and the guy at one end of the rope falls into a crevasse. How to get out?
Gear:
Ice axe: amzn.to/3b3qcbg
Climbing harness: amzn.to/3Onwy3o
Thanks for the great video! But the AMGA dictates that you should install your prussiks when you tie in to the rope. You can then stuff the prussiks in your pant pockets or racked on your harness. And because they are already set up for ascending the rope when you fall, you will speed up the self rescue process, getting you out of that crevasse faster. Your partners will appreciate the increase in speed of your self rescue too, they won't have to hold you so long. The AMGA also says you should keep your personal anchor already hitched to your harness. I realize these things are not totally necessary, but installing the prussiks and personal anchor when you gear up and tie in to the rope will increase your speed and efficiency on the mountain, which in turn, makes for a safer ascent. But otherwise I thought it was a very well made video. Thank you.
Thanks Rob. Great video. Lots of practical tips / points and good explanations of procedures, steps, and reasons. Best crevasse self rescue video I’ve watched, by far.
A well-done video, thank you sir! As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! The name is Mike A. Drover. And thank you for informing me about the Texas-prusik. ~M~
This is an excellent video! Great job at the thorough demonstration:)
Thank you! This is very well presented and clearly the best climbing lesson I have seen on the Tube!
Rob, this is an awesome video, very good job. In a few months I'm going to Denali and this has been the best prusik climb video I've seen. The time of making the video, the edition and explanation is appreciated.
I enjoyed your video. Very good demonstration. I kept wanting to see a Super 8 effect on the video because your narration reminded me of old home movies. ;-)
A way, not the way....great video, great training!
Good video, thanks for the great explanation. I saw this on a movie many years ago and had always wondered about how to do it.
Excellent video. I've been climbing on and off since 1977 and when I retire next year I'm moving back out west to resume my vertical pursuits.
If you hire any guide from any agency for a Cascades trip or Alaska trip or whatever, you'll spend the first day learning these techniques. I keep a two meter cord next to my bed and tie 2-3 Prusik loops every day. Having said all that, I have zero use for a Prusik even if I did wear a chest harness (never met a climber who did). Fall into a crevasse and use your adrenaline pumped brain to command shaking, numb, and perhaps freezing fingers to thread and then use these knots to get myself out?
I'll take two Petzl Basic Ascenders and two Footapes any day. I'll be effecting a self rescue and getting myself up the rope before a single Prusik can be installed. Yes, this will cost me close to US $200. But what's $200 compared to a funeral, especially after tens of thousands have already been spent on guides, transportation, clothing, other gear?
Thank you for your comments, well said. Agreed the prusik knot is the slowest and most basic method. Some people have correctly pointed out in other comments that the prusiks should be installed in advance so if needed there are already there ready to go.
+Threat_Dynamics The petzl tibloc is cheaper than the basic, effective and is intended for emergency situations. Anyway it's always nice to know how to work with a prusik knot, it can save your butt but one day...
great upload
Excellent simulation!
Great video. Thanks!
Thanks very much for the spot on, must know on self rescue video.
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
Great job, Rob! There is no substitute for practice, so I'd want to add gloves/mittens to increase the realism. I'm guessing crampons should be removed before using any foot-loop technique? LOL- my wife wants to know why I'm putting a 4-foot facia board on our roof. Bless your wife, she must have gasped as your axe was swinging towards the window! Thanks again!
Thank you Larry, My wife gasped when I let myself fall backwards off the ladder. I didn't tell her I was about to do that. She thought I was falling for real. Keep your crampons on. They help getting over the lip of the crevasse and besides you would not want to risk dropping them.
Great video!
Rob, great video. My only comment (from what I can see) is that you only have one tie-in point (the upper prussik).
You should also tie your belay loop into to your texas prussik too (this adds redundancy if either of your prussiks fail. Just take a bight on the texas prussik and tie an overhand. Then you can biner it into you belay loop. This adds redundancy as you now have 2 prussiks holding you on the rope. It means your texas prussik cord has to be a bit longer than what you have in this video but hey, you're now super safe. The reason I comment about a backup is that it is possible for a prussik to slide if not properly weighted and zipping down would shock-load your anchor at the top.
However you mentioned using a clove hitch on the rope. This is effectively the same thing. It backs you up. :-)
great vid, tnx... greetings from the Philippines!
very informative video. us rope geeks are such weirdos
Thank you Mike
Very informative. Thank you.
Very good video. Thank you for taking the time to make it... Are you from Cali?
could you do a video showing your rope setup within a week? It could literally save my life.
Good stuff. I have to admit the traditional prusik-climb "Freedom of the Hills" doctrinal method seems long and painful vs. using two mechanical ascenders. But very informative video nonetheless - thanks!
Crevasses terrify me and are the main reason why I won't do mountain climbing.
Thank you, I had fun making it.
Do you need a permit to climb Rainier?
Thanks for the vid. Do you have video on how to anchor a line at the top?
You need a climbing permit to climb higher than 10,000 feet. You can hike to Camp Muir (10,000') without a permit. You need a permit to go higher than Camp Muir.
Thanks, yes, a long time ago.
Oh by the way? I am a contractor, and I occasionally have to wear a fall protection harness, with a D-ring back dorsal, and if I should have a fall, how to get my body weight off the back dorsal and myself into a standing position and wait for help. ~M~
if you drop and the ice hack stabs you... that hurts
I´m a novice, but in a case of a real fall, if you aren´t clipped in a chest harness, wouldn´t you end up upside down, especially with that pack on your back? This "fall" is so much controled by your hands. In a chance of a deep fall i think you should be always attached to your chest harness. Just asking, no offense. Thx.
+xmessenjah Yes it's possible you could end up upside down. But you don't normally hike with the rope clipped onto your chest. If you did that then you'd fall on your face when pulled from the front. If upside down in the crevasse you usually can right yourself. But you are right. Crevasse rescue doesn't always work.
I never climb with my chest clipped, you chest turns into a 2:1 pully with your harness if you arrest someones fall. its very hard to arrest when your chest is pulled down to your pelvis haha. Its also pretty bad for your back. Many people will pull themselves to the rope and clip like he did :)
Great video and a great idea to practice!! Two things though, you cross loaded that biner a couple time maybe attach with a bull knot instead. Second, for realism you should have stained you crotch a little yellow and brown after the simulated fall!! LOL
Great, professional camera work too; she needs a raise!! Thanks again and God bless!!
Você pode usar luvas, para o próximo treino. Vai ser mais complicado, porém real.
im a tree climber so my tools are different per say but maybe you should look into them, hand and foot ascenders make your life so much easier that what your doing, less strain on your body and less strain on the guy holding you
+Matt Brady Tibloc also makes you life easier in an emergency situation, although the basic croll is so small nowadays that you can use it instead of the tibloc.
+Rob Miller The ATC is intended for belaying, not for rappelling. You should use a descender like a figure of "8", they're cheap and effective.
Normally I wouldn't respond to such old comments, but I don't like incorrect information regarding climbing safety being left online. An ATC is fully designed to be used as a device for descending as well as belaying and is perfectly safe to use. If anything I'd say it's harder to get wrong and with modern ATCs easier to control.
Add to that the size and weight benefits and the fact many models can quickly be swapped from a rappel system to being part of an ascension system incase you miss an anchor and I see little reason to use a fig 8 in most mountain scenarios.
arnaldohanatarashi
Just need to correct some misinformation you gave. An ATC is also a rappelling device. Don't know where you get your info from but please do better
is it ok to use one carabiner for two prusiks? thanks.
Thank you Erik. I'm glad my video was helpful. Good luck on Denali. I hope you don't need to use what you learned in my video :)
You can also find me on Facebook, search for Robertson Miller
Rob
What did you use to make your chest harness?
Im new at climbing but shouldnt you have a way of communicating with the person holding you up . The weight / wait may be to much for them . How about letting your pack fall to decrease weight load .
That is awsome
Rope access guys could climb that with a lot less effort
ever heard of a chest ascender and a hand ascender would have taken 1 tenth of the time to climb out and they don't weigh much either you would only be talking about 300 grams for both devices. It takes 5 seconds to place a hand ascender on the rope and another 5 seconds to place yourself on the chest ascender. buy the time you've rigged up the Texas prussic I would have climbed out.
old school self rescue ,,,, too slow i belive ur circulation is not good anymore by the time you get half way
Your ice ax should be attached to your pack with a lanyard before you start the climb!
Steven Thaw now is that the correct way to do it or is that the opinion way i am not being ignorant i am new to ice climbing and in my personal opinion i think you axes should be clipped to your harness then you undo your leash so there's 0% chance you drop it
+joshua carver If you clip your axe to your belay loop with a Purcell Prusik, you have an adjustable personal anchor anchor any time you need it...and it won't be dropped.
Spoiler alert! He's not in a crevasse!
Arborist here, not a mountain climber...But why not just carry a couple ascenders with you?
+Matt Belloni excess weight
I would use a texas along with a belay device on a prusik to climb faster
Thank you for your comment. The answer to your question is yes. I should have had the Texas attached before climbing.
You need a lanyard for your ice axe !!!
Prusik not pressick.
just buy a ascender from petzl pantin saves you a lot of time..
A 4-foot runner: see rei dot com/category/4500701
Great video! Thanks!