Crevasse Self Rescue With Prussiks - Ski Mountaineering Tips - G3 University
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- Опубліковано 23 лют 2017
- IFMGA guide Julia Niles demonstrates how to self rescue from a crevasse using prussiks.
NOTE: The videos in this series do not replace proper mountain safety training. These videos are meant only as a refresher for experienced backcountry mountain travelers or as a teaser to get skiers and riders excited to take a course and learn more.
STEP OUTSIDE. Ask Questions. Try Something New. Exceed Expectations.
Guide: www.juliakniles.com
Videography: Grant Baldwin Videography
Edit: Jamie Bond / Doglotion Media Inc. www.doglotion.com - Спорт
I am writing this from the ceiling of my cabin. How do I get down now?
use a descender ;)
Stand up through the foot prusik, slide the waist pusik down, weight the waist prusik, slide the foot prusik down - easy
@@TOoMGr2 You guys have only anwsered him now?! Poor man has been stuck on the roof for 6 months now!
Always carry a grigri! 🤣🤣
you got a knife?
Hey Julia,
You have a really nice teaching style. Very easy to listen to and comprehend. Thanks for the video. Please do more! Aloha!
I agree but stop flirting
I know man. She fine af
I do a lot of outdoor activities I never carry full gear but always carry enough gear for survival situations. Learning techniques like this one in extreme cases will decide whether you live or die. Thanks
Fabulous video, clear viewing of technique and clear explanation. I wish all videos were this clear.
Love the video - mechanically sound way to ascend using physics and simple configuration. Test the Prusik by loading it and see how it slides for you on the rope you are using. There is also the Icicle Hitch, Distel Hitch, Klemheist and others. See which works best for you. I enjoyed testing this out in my yard. Always test gear and mechanics so you know how to do this when it really matters. Thank you for the video, it was inspiring and got me to think about self rescue in an alternative to repelling. This knowledge can save your life.
She makes this seem easy, but actually doing this is quite a pain
The best video I've seen for this!
Great video. Very easy to understand instructions. Learned something new. Thank you 👍🏻👍🏻🏔🇳🇴
A fine refresher. Enjoyed watching.
I like how you keep your rig neat. Most climbers have a big jumbled, knotted-up mess going on and you can't even tell whats what.
Lots of good suggestions below. 2:45 She did not mention it, but she did use a right and a left prusik. (More usable knots not withstanding) This makes it easier to just keep one hand on each ascender(of any kind), operating it with your thumb or index, and allowing a much more efficient rhythm of movement during ascent.
Nice demosntration, usefull tips. Cheers!
One of the best vids explaining the techniques great job
dats cool. I'm a sailing coach and you just gave me a fun thing to do when there isn't any wind :)
Just took a climbing course and was handed a Prussik , without any instructions. Thank you very much . I ended up wrapping the line around my Wrist and pulling my dumb bum up. It was painful, I did it and have the bruises to prove it. This looked fun , easy a lot better. Thank you so much
Excellent explanation, thanks for sharing
really nice demonstration! we use this in tree climbing as well, without the foot loop backed up to a carabiner. I like the back up, very good system. cheers for sharing.
Thank you G3. Prussiks are amazing.
Very inoformative, great video. Congrats!
Well Done! About to climb Huayna Potosi where I doubt we will encounter any Crevasse, but if we do I will make sure I have two lengths of rope on me to build some Prussiks. Very clear explanation and easy to follow along. Now just need to find a place to practice.....
absolutely practical and life saving
That was a great video,,also for TR solo getting out of trouble with ascender. Thanks I need a climbing partner like you.
LOVE IT!! super helpful guide
Thanks for the vídeos!
This is a great demonstration. You also make more progress than most of the Rope Access techs I see who are on statics with a jammer and a chest ascender lol! Fine job
That’s because they don’t take such big bites at it. Standing up and taking your arms all the way to your waist is not something you can keep up all day. Only short bursts to get you out of trouble
thanks for the video, had to refresh my memory
Great job. Thanks for the tutorial.
I can ascend using one prussik and foot locking the single line,no need for 2.
Great video,enjoyed your personality!!
OMG!, you are incredible madame!!! I am ashamed of buying all the gear for the RADS, I should have seen your video 2 weeks ago! :p! thanks a lot!
Excellent video! Very clear and helpful. You are also very strong - my Prussik loops are rather shorter so the step-up is not so great. Many thanks.
Wow, that was good to know, thanks!
Great especially to use 2 Ropes
I used this exact same way to climb up the mast of my sailing boat some years ago. Fun stuff!
Very clear, good explained show, other YT videos shows fast moves with ropes and you can't say what really happened with particular knot and where did it go. Good video before going to any professional learning course.
good job its was awesom video thank you
"I don't know how it's going to take these fools to rescue me."
Yet you're the one stranded in the crevasse!
Never a good idea to insult your potential rescuers! 🤣
Just kidding, very well done and informative vid! Cheers 👍
I had the same thought.
For the waist ascender I prefer the Bachman knot, the handle added in by the carabiner is pretty nice to have
Nice julia i learned a lot
super good, thanks!
We used prussiks in the Sapper Leader Course to scale a 90ft cliff. We used our boot laces and made pretty good jumars. And I’ve never heard “prussik” pronounced that way.
My my. Cute smart and great to listen to. Thanks. Gr8 content.
I'm a flatland swamper, so I'm not likely to fall in a crevasse in the Everglades, but I enjoyed seeing how Prusiks work. Thank you.
You can climb trees like this too
Thanks! I liked using a second strand of a leg prusik as a back up. The issue with prusiks is that you have to untighten them before moving up, while the advantage is simplicity. My favorite combo instead of prusiks is Cong Duck and Garda.
clear explaination...
Parabéns, boa técnica simples e funcional.
I actually did this on mountaineering course on an actual mountain. It goes without saying it was very challenging exercise as you are hauling your whole body up so very good level of fitness was required which I lacked at that time.
i like climbing trees, i started to collecting tools and equipment and i have also hand made rappel rack.
Great video and clear teaching style! Love to see more women killing it as guides :)
Guide me to the kitchen..
Very nice.
Great video. Just preference but when you are backing up the system you can use a clove hitch that way you can adjust as you go.
I like having one long prussik with a dont forget me knot at the top and a foot loop at knee level, Then with your atc clipped directly into your belay loop. Take the tail end of your rope coming from the atc and loop it through the carabiner on the dont forget me knot that way you can pull the rope through with more leverage when standing. also you just have to keep moving one prussik as well
re 1:55 & 2:09 NB She has one Left-hand, and one Right-hand prussik. Think about which hand can easiest control (set & release) the knot, with your fingers around the lines(tongue) and thumb to move the bend(smile) away(set/tighten) or toward (release/loosen) your fingers. Also, think about which hand you will use to move each knot during your ascent sequence.
re 4:15 periodic fall capture tie-in: Consider using a biner controlled belayer(clove) hitch, which requires less effort & time: tie once, and periodically move it up by pulling & releasing the biner.
re 0:25 & 4:50 You don't know what your fall did to your partner! She might be injured, sacrificing her circulation to hold you above the abyss. Ascent will also improve your opportunity for voice communication & coordination.
When you are as high as you can get, put your weight on an ice anchor! That will allow your partner slack for slot extraction & padding of your rope, & might also give you the option of rope signals.
PS: If your fall is during ascent, you are more likely to have access to the crevasse wall to immediately anchor yourself & release the dangerous & complicating load on your partner, who is probably trying to both, save you from wedging, and setup your rescue system.
If you fall during descent, you might still have access to a solid wall for support.
Hey Julia, this is an awesome video!! I’d love to set this system up on my own. What diameter and type of rope are you using for both prusik systems and how long is the rope? Thanks in advance! Hope to see you make more videos
good info and a beautiful instructor!
nobody will be at the top to help you get over the edge of the crevasse. They all went back to enjoy a meal and a movie after hearing you call them fools.
Agree, she stays at the bottom.
You're doing this because you can't rely on anyone else. Consider them fools.
You don't know what your fall did to your partner! She might be injured, sacrificing her circulation to hold you above the abyss. Ascent will also improve your opportunity for voice communication & coordination. When you are as high as you can get, put your weight on an ice anchor! That will allow slot extraction & padding of your rope, & might also give you the option of rope signals.
Hey girl , you gotta use your inside crevasse voice when saying saying sh#t like that. But, I'd haul you outta there for a date and we could practise knot tying he he he
Just kidding
Great demonstration, what size rope are you using for the rescue prussik rope?
You can also add another prusik to pull with one hand while you push with one leg!
I posted this as a reply, but it's important enough to repeat in a top-level post. She mentions someone might set everything up in advance. I would go further. Don't depend on doing all this after falling in. Prepare the knots and place the around the rope in advance, storing them in a waist pouch. Then what takes her three minutes of fine-hand movements will take you only a few seconds even if badly injured.
Keep in mind that it'll be far colder down in a crevasse. That packed snow & ice is going to retain the cold from the previous winter. It will be hard enough to retain your motor skills for the climb out, and that may depend totally on you. particularly if you're climbing with only one other person. Also, a crevasse may leave you wedged in tightly, with little room to move.
Just carry a hand ascender and Has
Hey great video. Nos Q : What's the main rope thickness in mm and what's the prussik loop rope thickness in mm...?
nice video
Nice boots!!!
I've never climbed a rope like this but now interested cause I've got to get up in tree to trim. My question is why knot tie and alpine butterfly for both legs to work together .
Seems easy enough but then again I'm just learning this stuff.
M L Rogers
Great technique, James Bond used his boot laces to get up his rope. Can't remember which film...
Julie see you are at the Keith's Hut. do you do any teaching my son and I really want to learn more on the Techniques for Mountaineering :) Thanks
Ralph you can find Julia at www.juliakniles.com
You can make them pretty fast with bowlines at either end as well.
Once twice three times a lady! Lionel Richie!!!🙏🏻😘. BTW are those hiking boots?? Thanks
This is a nice video, really enjoyable and useful. I actually copied doing this on my own roof beams - great fun! However I noticed that the incidental knots she ties in the cordelette to make loops etc. are overhands on a bight. This seems a bad idea because they are almost impossible to untie after bearing weight (especially when wet). You wouldn't use the overhand on a bight when climbing for this reason. Just wondering if it's maybe better to use the figure eight follow-through knot even with thin cordelette?
Untying the knot after you've climbed out of the crevasses going to be the least of your worries.
@@johngo6283 , unless you need that line for something else while climbing up (maybe others are also in the crevasse and you need to help) , or the fact that once you get out of the crevasse your trip is probably not done quite yet, it is simply bad technique
❤❤❤
Mantap ....
What a nice hut!
I'm unclear on the reason for attaching the foot prusik to your harness. What are you preventing there?
she's adding redundancy.
Красивая барышня 🌞
Anybody know why the foot loop is backed up? Great video btw!!!
If the foot loop is severed (eg gets cut between foot and rock) then the initial shock is taken by the harness avoiding shock to the second prusik.
How long would those two ropes be? The small one 1 meter, the second 2 meters?
Useful Polish invention. Properly called Prusikowanie (after the surname Prusik).
Upon researching the origins of the Prusik hitch, all I find was that it was invented by Karl Prusik who was Austrian. Do you think he was unfairly given credit for a Polish invention?
Nice. Could you run the foot prussic through a pulley off the harness, so you need not stand up, just push out with the leg ?
In theory yes. In practice you introduce a substantial amount of friction (on pulley biner, on other prusik line, on rope), and the setup is harder to manage. You would want to climb with less repetitions, so you can save energy. Standing up on the foot loop enables you to slip the prusik higher.
Good technique but I would improve the knots. Double figure 8 or Alpine Butterfly instead of the overhands, Kleimheist instead of 6 coil prusik for the footloop would be easier to tie with cold hands and small cordage, and girth hitch the loops on the carabiner to prevent side loading or opening of the carabiner gate.
Hi. With all due respect, she did everything on the safe side and according to the industry standard. Klemheist bites very aggresively, might be a problem if your priority is to get out quickly. She is using locking carabiners, so no worries about gates being open and chance of breaking or side-loading a biner in the presented scenario is close to zero.
Я её люблю, прекрасна🙂
Still remember James Bond using this with shoe laces.
how well would distels work ?
Cool. doesn't that one lifting leg get really tired? Is there a way to use both legs?
Yes, but it's the strongest part of your body. What gets tired first will probably be your core muscles from struggling to keep yourself oriented vertically instead of your feer kicking out from under you. You can rest part way up.
There's is ascending equipment that can provide mechanical advantage and easier ascents than prusik hitches to a point where you can actually walk up a rope, but that might not be something you have crossing a glacier. You should always have rope doing this activity.
Most definitely Mike. She used a single leg loop, I always use two. Called Frogs legs, they are far more mechanically efficient. Do what she did with the leg prusik but tie 2 leg loops, one with each free end. She used the second free end to make her back-up . I use a separate piece for back-up.
Then see how much more efficient and smooth it is to ascend...its a breeze as your body stays straight and somewhat symmetrical to the rope. YOU bring both legs up together, then stand up in both loops like you do from squatting. Really good.
Nice madom fower full, and goods job i like you
What diameter is the blue rope that your hanging from.
I need a practice cabin.
How big is the cordelette for the foot?
Given that is is cold down in a crevasse and that you might be injured, you might want to pre-tie those knots around the rope and put them in a bag at your waist.
Keith Hut!
That was actually cool lol
Can we use other autoblock knots??
Yup
How long is that cordellete?
Ни чего не понял, но девушка зачётная👍
Tuyệt.
I love how smoothly she can tie the figure 8 knot
she didn't tie one?
imagine you are not in a sweet warm room but instead really hanging on the rope. it's cold, youre freezing since yesterday and your fingers are quite clumsy. it's windy and it's getting a little dark cause the group isn't in schedule any more. i can not imagine, how that should work so smooth in an emergency case. especially if you lost one of the prusik ropes.
so true ;)
Hence why practice is so important.
wouldn't help against my objecting, or would it? stoeger 2 said it - touching the void . the guy hat the problems i wrote about and i am sure he was well trained and lucky. cause he survived not only the fall but was able to walk back with a broken leg for a week or so!
you have to ;)
Good point! She does mention that if most of your climb is on a glacier, you might want to set everything up in advance. I would go still further.
Back in my glacier climbing days, I created all the ropes & knots, attaching them to the climbing rope. Then I put all of them in a small pouch around my waist. That transformed what takes her about three minutes of fine-hand movements into something I could do in a few seconds even if I were badly injured.
Keep in mind that it's going to be far colder down in a crevasse than on the surface. That packed snow & ice twenty feet down is going to retain the cold from the previous winter. It's going to be hard enough to retain your motor skills for the climb out. The added time to do a setup could be dangerous, particularly if you're climbing with only one other person and he can't provide much assistance.
That Julia person is a fuckin' rope gangster.
Keiths Hut?
So good but so much complicated for me because of:
My poor listening skills..
But mostly because my weakness in mathematics.
how the hell did I end up there after watching a wow video
Why knot ;) just use two Prussik knots - one on each foot, and climb up using them like a ladder. That way you're using your much stronger legs to climb, and are less likely to fatigue.
Wouldn't ya Still need the third prussik at your waist in case you need to lay back? So progress isn't kept solely by foot loops and the only tie-in is down at the end of rope. Just seems safer to include the harness-prussik.
Definately agree stair stepper is gonna help fight fatigue vs. one leg climbing.
I used to use two ascenders when learning to big wall climb. It's a real cluster and doesn't help at all. The free leg also acts as a counter balance. When you have to legs weighting the rope, the legs are fighting each other causing an imbalance. It only works when you are on a slab and can weight against something to steady yourself.
Try it and check in
Doesnty hurt to weigh 40 kg
Why are you tying overhand knots in everything.