We just did this!! Eta...45min. Your video was perfect for two amateurs! Job requires two people unless you are a pro! I made sure the rubber threaded into the T-track while hubby pulled slowly.
Realistic video. All videos I watch show how easy and any fool can do. I then try and feel like the fool that doesn't do so well. Even easy stuff aint so easy. Good video.
A Dremell tool will make short work of cutting out the crimped spots, if you can't pry them open. Also a bucket of soapy water makes pulling the new one in much smoother
Thanks, this was very helpful. I did discover something different on my door for others to look out for: There were two self-taping screws installed through the bottom edge of the track about 3" in from each end--the heads of the screws make contact with the rubber profile on the inside edge of he door, and thus lock the rubber in place. After removing these screws I was able to slide out the seal, but the screws deformed the track slightly so before I could install the new rubber seal I had to pry the edges a bit and remove some burrs that it was catching on. I did reinstall the screws afterward as this trick works well.
This video really helped me. I've never done something like this before... The whole process took me about 45 minutes to do... Didn't have any help... One thing that I would suggest is don't try to pop your wheels off of your track. They are harder than hell to get back on and you really don't have to pop them off in order to put the new stripping in.
If i needed to pop the rollers out of the track in order to replace the seal I'd remove the three bolts that hold the whole roller assembly to the door.
I suppose if you do garage doors all day then popping the roller back in is routine. This saves the pro some time but for the regular DIY homeowner who does this once every 5 yrs or more, just raise the door, secure it up with a C clamp clamped to the track on one side, then unplug the opener. You should be able to slide the old one off thru the gap between the track and the frame/wall. Mine was NOT pinched so it was easy. getting it back on was a bit trickier, with patience and about 10 mins I worked it into place. I did NOT pinch the track. Instead I wiped the new seal and old track with isopropyl alcohol then used silicone caulk beads on both sides of the seal about 2" long and 2" from the ends to hold it in place. MUCH easier to remove and once the silicone is cured it won't slide out. Just sayin', that's how I did mine.
Raise the door to the right angel for clear view of the track from end to end, which would allow you to slide in the long piece of rubber. This can be easily done if you lubricate the track with soapy water and also have someone assisting you - one pushing and one pulling.
Kinda glad somebody just shot a self tapper on each end of mine to hold it. For those that don't know, the ends are secured because the seal shrinks. It's funny that he mentions 3", because when I pulled out the screws on mine and freed it up. In a short time it was almost 3 inches shorter, lol.
the next time u want to replace a "T_bulb" style and it is crimped in.. at ea side fold back the rubber and use a razor knife inserted into the channel and cut each side of the T. pull the center porton down and it'll get u better access to the crimp. screw driver up pry open. do both sides and the whole thing will slide out. hit the channel with some soapy water or spray oil and new seal will slide right in... about 10 min job.
wow this video was a whole journey. This was a better story than some movies I've seen. So just to clarify you didn't end up removing the channel cause it was epoxied in?
My garage door is very thin tin. Its not the typical door thickness. I do not see any place where I can install a T seal. Its way too thin. Seems like there is one little slot/sleeve that runs down the whole length of the bottom of the garage door where a rubber seal use to exist before it got ripped off. I have no idea how I can install the classic T seal. Can I put a 1 x 2 along the length of the bottom of the door, and drill it onto the door so i can install a T Rubber weather strip seals? Please help. thanks!
Hey Tom. Great video. When I popped the bottom rollers out, I discovered that the bottom roller bracket is mounted so low on the door that the 'T' channel is not accessible. Assuming you have seen this a bunch, and wanted to ask for a suggestion...and hoping its not disassembling the door! Thanks again for the tricks in the video!
did you replace the channel or use the existing one. You stated you were going to replace it but I didn't see it being replaced in the video. Did I miss something?
I was going to say the same thing. He starts to remove screws holding the bottom retainer, then it jumps to him just pulling rubber out of the old one. what happened?
I thought maybe the previous installer crimped the channel throughout the track for some reason. If it was in good condition other than just the ends, I wouldn't have replaced it, unless I wasn't paying for it. Prior guy must have used construction adhesive or something that couldn't be pried off easily I suppose.
He mentioned the old track was apparently epoxied in place then the video seemed to jump past all the cursing and back to him uncrimping the original damaged track lol
The real lesson is that garage door mfrs should be chastised for not having a simple way to remove and attach bottom seals without having to endanger your life and limb by mucking with casters and rails.
What the heck. First you tell us you're going to replace the rubber part. Then you figure out the end is crimped and you have to replace the whole thing. Then magically the video cuts and you're pulling out the old rubber. No mention of the fact you didn't need to replace the aluminum base piece after all. It would have been helpful to know how you either removed the crimp or got around it. What was the purpose of folding over an extra 3" at the one end? Why not cut it flush like the other end?
You said you are going to install plate on the bottom? But then you had a hard time taking it off, because you thought it was glued in? And lastly you didn't even mentioned it and took the old weatherstriping from the old bottom plate.
How long before that side pulls in and no longer sits flush with the end? better to tuck in some excess on both sides rather than only on one, since there was so much extra to work with.
We just did this!! Eta...45min. Your video was perfect for two amateurs! Job requires two people unless you are a pro! I made sure the rubber threaded into the T-track while hubby pulled slowly.
I like that you did a messed up one. Much better for learning than the perfect case.
Realistic video. All videos I watch show how easy and any fool can do. I then try and feel like the fool that doesn't do so well. Even easy stuff aint so easy. Good video.
I agree, I like seeing the issues that can pop up. "Murphy" works against me, so if something can go wrong........
A Dremell tool will make short work of cutting out the crimped spots, if you can't pry them open. Also a bucket of soapy water makes pulling the new one in much smoother
Thanks, this was very helpful. I did discover something different on my door for others to look out for: There were two self-taping screws installed through the bottom edge of the track about 3" in from each end--the heads of the screws make contact with the rubber profile on the inside edge of he door, and thus lock the rubber in place. After removing these screws I was able to slide out the seal, but the screws deformed the track slightly so before I could install the new rubber seal I had to pry the edges a bit and remove some burrs that it was catching on. I did reinstall the screws afterward as this trick works well.
This video really helped me. I've never done something like this before... The whole process took me about 45 minutes to do... Didn't have any help... One thing that I would suggest is don't try to pop your wheels off of your track. They are harder than hell to get back on and you really don't have to pop them off in order to put the new stripping in.
Tasukihori good warning.
If i needed to pop the rollers out of the track in order to replace the seal I'd remove the three bolts that hold the whole roller assembly to the door.
depending on where the cable is attached, a person could regret that
+nuggett hold the wagon train. do *not* do that. I know a guy who lost an eye doing that.
Why is trhis such a problem? I dont see how the bottom rollers are under tension.
I suppose if you do garage doors all day then popping the roller back in is routine. This saves the pro some time but for the regular DIY homeowner who does this once every 5 yrs or more, just raise the door, secure it up with a C clamp clamped to the track on one side, then unplug the opener. You should be able to slide the old one off thru the gap between the track and the frame/wall. Mine was NOT pinched so it was easy. getting it back on was a bit trickier, with patience and about 10 mins I worked it into place. I did NOT pinch the track. Instead I wiped the new seal and old track with isopropyl alcohol then used silicone caulk beads on both sides of the seal about 2" long and 2" from the ends to hold it in place. MUCH easier to remove and once the silicone is cured it won't slide out. Just sayin', that's how I did mine.
323t
Raise the door to the right angel for clear view of the track from end to end, which would allow you to slide in the long piece of rubber. This can be easily done if you lubricate the track with soapy water and also have someone assisting you - one pushing and one pulling.
it's funny how every tradesman always blames the previous tradesman. I do it too haha
And in this case he was totally justified. I always try to do a job as if I was going to have to work on it again.
Kinda glad somebody just shot a self tapper on each end of mine to hold it. For those that don't know, the ends are secured because the seal shrinks. It's funny that he mentions 3", because when I pulled out the screws on mine and freed it up. In a short time it was almost 3 inches shorter, lol.
“Say no to crack” one of my boss used to joke😁
the next time u want to replace a "T_bulb" style and it is crimped in.. at ea side fold back the rubber and use a razor knife inserted into the channel and cut each side of the T. pull the center porton down and it'll get u better access to the crimp. screw driver up pry open. do both sides and the whole thing will slide out. hit the channel with some soapy water or spray oil and new seal will slide right in... about 10 min job.
your videos are the coolest on the web
You didn't show it but I'm guessing you did put the screws back in?
Why do you need the door so low, why not shoulder high (save the back)?
+T I'm thinking those screws aren't really needed anymore, lol.
Thanks, I replaced the rubber piece. I would have liked to see you replace the metal strip, regardless I was able to fix the door.
wow this video was a whole journey. This was a better story than some movies I've seen. So just to clarify you didn't end up removing the channel cause it was epoxied in?
I thought the same thing. He made no mention of going to plan B. Also, I wonder if he crimped his work when done?
Pop the rollers out? I would be so worried about not being able to pop them back in afterwards.
BIG THANKS!! Big Help installing my bottom seals. Great Job!
How do you install the metal rail?
Great video, I like the real life of it!
It was useful now I know what kind of “Retainer” and seal I need for my installation
My garage door is very thin tin. Its not the typical door thickness. I do not see any place where I can install a T seal. Its way too thin. Seems like there is one little slot/sleeve that runs down the whole length of the bottom of the garage door where a rubber seal use to exist before it got ripped off. I have no idea how I can install the classic T seal. Can I put a 1 x 2 along the length of the bottom of the door, and drill it onto the door so i can install a T Rubber weather strip seals? Please help. thanks!
Hey Tom. Great video. When I popped the bottom rollers out, I discovered that the bottom roller bracket is mounted so low on the door that the 'T' channel is not accessible. Assuming you have seen this a bunch, and wanted to ask for a suggestion...and hoping its not disassembling the door! Thanks again for the tricks in the video!
You deserve a lot more views than you have.
Keep it up Big Reggie!
did you replace the channel or use the existing one. You stated you were going to replace it but I didn't see it being replaced in the video. Did I miss something?
I was going to say the same thing. He starts to remove screws holding the bottom retainer, then it jumps to him just pulling rubber out of the old one. what happened?
It looked like it was glued on and he gave up..
looks like he tried harder to widen out the crimped spots and succeeded
I thought maybe the previous installer crimped the channel throughout the track for some reason. If it was in good condition other than just the ends, I wouldn't have replaced it, unless I wasn't paying for it. Prior guy must have used construction adhesive or something that couldn't be pried off easily I suppose.
He mentioned the old track was apparently epoxied in place then the video seemed to jump past all the cursing and back to him uncrimping the original damaged track lol
Did I miss the part when you removed then installed the aluminum track?
The real lesson is that garage door mfrs should be chastised for not having a simple way to remove and attach bottom seals without having to endanger your life and limb by mucking with casters and rails.
Lift the door to the head level will be easier... Why work to the knee level???
I bookmarked this video for future reference!
Your work is absolutely awesome1
I love your videos.
You sir have won +3 internets. :D
What the heck. First you tell us you're going to replace the rubber part. Then you figure out the end is crimped and you have to replace the whole thing. Then magically the video cuts and you're pulling out the old rubber. No mention of the fact you didn't need to replace the aluminum base piece after all. It would have been helpful to know how you either removed the crimp or got around it.
What was the purpose of folding over an extra 3" at the one end? Why not cut it flush like the other end?
Terry Dunlap 2 reasons. 1- it keeps the ends fluffed up so it seals better and 2 there’s less chance of water getting in
Hmmmmmm.........I'm thinking, "what could possibly go wrong?"😎
i love your videos!!!!!!!!!
you inspired me to make videos
Did you ever put the screws back in 🤔
these vids are always awesome xD
You said you are going to install plate on the bottom? But then you had a hard time taking it off, because you thought it was glued in? And lastly you didn't even mentioned it and took the old weatherstriping from the old bottom plate.
I don’t know how and why it looks easy ,, I just tried to replace it but the seal gets stuck 3 inches in !!!!
i love your work!
Cool video.
Hey u want a 2nd tool in you box besides the tiny screw driver
LOL............@ 4:18 this dude wanted to cuss so bad but couldn't because he is making this DIY video.
lol i love your vids
you guys rock
Great video , thanks! A future project : )
why did you have the door so low,where you were working bent over all the time I would have had it head high?
He will figure that out when he gets a little older
I’m looking for a 2”x1” x 16 ft rubber piece
A great experience. Thank you.
Fantastic.
Nice channel
Nice editing!
Well, it works for me anyway.
Thanks!
What weatherstrip seal do you recommend for a wood door?
Hey ma mello Tom mello nice job
:) I like ur videos
nice videos
You are brilliant! :]
My Garage Door Weatherstripping Video OK
that is so cool
i was waiting for the f-bombs to drop.
hey dude u r awesome
Awesome.
what song did you use
So you didn't replace retainer or skipped it?
more videos!!!
Coooooooooool!
Did you tuck in 3" on both sides?
He just did one side. Other side was flush.
How long before that side pulls in and no longer sits flush with the end? better to tuck in some excess on both sides rather than only on one, since there was so much extra to work with.
Keep it up!
That was stressful..
Oh. Second person... That'd be nice - wanna come over and give me a hand?
Damn you all see that huge crack?
Say no to crack
Lol what a video!
What's crackin
That was rough to watch... so u pried the shit outta both ends then gave up and half assed the new one in... i hope the home owned didnt see this
EPIC? VIDS
BOWSEN Garage Door Bottom Seal with tracks | Rubber Gasket Weather Strip Replacement DIY
MORE EASY
ua-cam.com/video/fI48pKzArRI/v-deo.html
There is literally no reason to remove the bottom rollers out of the track. That’s completely stupid and pointless
you're really funny!
That was painful to watch on so many levels.
this is one sexy channel
Do not pop that out!
Not a DIY type of job. Further, not using the best screwdriver.
No help here
Can't see shit on this video. Terrible camera angles
i would think most of the time the seal itself needs replaced not the entire alum. channel
Crazy because most have cables connected to the bottom - horrible idea
EPIC? VIDS
this is one sexy channel