I just replaced mine today on our 2-car roll-up door. The only hassle was that my rubber seal had flanges that were too wide to fit into the slots on my garage door. To resolve this issue, I took a packing knife and trimmed off the flanges off of the inside surface, leaving only flanges on the outside surface Then it would easily fit into both slots. Luckily my wife saw me struggling to get the first 18-inches slid-in. She offered to help. It took us about a half hour working together where she was pushing the rubber seal in one the left end of the door, while I was pulling it with a pair of pliers on the other end. Very slow work because of the rubber binding across the expanse of our 18-foot door. Watching your video I'm really happy that my door doesn't have that tensioner cale on both ends. Excellent video. Thank You 😀
Also is recommended that you use two bolts to lock the door open on the track.. each one on both sides.... that's going to help the door stay open and not move back and forward when you adjust the cables.
I want replace the bottom seal of my 16ft garage door, it's 20 years old and about 3 inches short on one side. The seal I have is not the 2 T channels like I see on most UA-cam videos, mine has only 1 channel, so I decided to replace the seal and the retainer with new hardware.The rertainer has a bracket on both ends that are held by 3 bolts, 2 bolts are in the retainer, so I will remove these 2 bolts while the door is at the top (less tension) this will allow me to remove the retainer while the bracket is being held by the 3rd bolt, the cable will remained attached to the pulley & spring. I was surprised you removed the cable, I would have been afraid of something really bad happening, but you made sure cable was not under tension, mine look a bit under tension. After you did this your cable unspooled and you created a mess you had to fix, thanks for your openess and transparency, most people would not publish it, thanks again for your video.
Thanks. :D I left that in there because I wanted people to understand how easy it is to screw that up, as well as the unpleasant consequences of getting it wrong.
just wanted to thank you for the step by step tutorial. Replaced my garage door weatherstipping today after watching your video. Really appreciate the tips. Especially the loading of the cable spool!
Great video! You tell what can go wrong. I needed to know how to take the brackets off. Garage door repair can be very dangerous if you just start taking things apart! Safety first.
Suggestion, get a strong bungee cord, hook one end on the cable loop that was just disconnected from the door and hook the other end on one of the rail brackets that secure the rail to the brick. Bada bing, there's your tension.
Great video, thanks for the tips! I absolutely recommend you to place your warning/disclaimer at the beginning of your video as the tension in the cable could lead to massive injury as you stated! Thanks again!
I have found using a chain vice grip helps to hold the spring/bar tension in its place while removing the shackle and use a couple of rubber bungee cords to tention the cable .
Thank you for the video. Your old one was about 2 or 3 inches shorter than the length of the door on each side. Is it supposed to be that way for ventilation or did it just shrink over time? I noticed you put the new one to the edge.
Should change title to, DO Not Do What I Do. You should not remove the brackets. Only loosing 2 of the screws very slightly enough to squeeze in the new strip.
Glad you found it helpful. You're welcome. People are at liberty to awkwardly squeeze in the new strip if they think that's easier. I don't. People wanting to do it the Fernando way should go to the video Fernando posted.
It's for a general audience. Skipping what you don't need is what UA-camrs are supposed to do. Some people need the details. Also, separated not one hour from your comment was someone else complementing me for being so "clear and concise". His exact words. How people approach these things is very interpretive, and pleasing everyone with a bee in their bonnet about my style is not possible.
Do tell how to make it simpler. I post my mistakes so people know what to watch out for. Things can get nasty in a hurry if those cable drums come unwound or get tangled up. How to avoid that is an important precaution.
There are also lots of ways to get yourself hurt when dealing with spring loaded garage doors. Spending time to educate people about that is worth the investment. I don't want people watching my videos and getting themselves hurt because they get cavalier about the job and ignore what can go wrong.
Great video! I had the same issue and used your video to solve the problem. I put a screw in the wall where there cable is and then looped the cable on to the screw to keep the tension on it. Removed the bracket and replaced the seal then with no issues . Thanks again!
It isn't built that way. To access the end of the door to thread the weather stripping, the end bracket must come off completely. Taking the wheel out doesn't help you.
@@DoctorFixMaster Hey and thanks for the reply back. Check out this video please, not me. I did my first door alone, just like you before I watched your video, less my cable coming lose. Not trying to start an argument, just getting a better grasp of this, "Not so easy" project doing it alone. ua-cam.com/video/ks5iiEjo1SU/v-deo.html
U are so wrong doing the seal on door. I suggest u view others. We do not want a homeowner removing any bolts or fooling with cables. It is very dangerous. Springs and cables can cut your hand off. Remember homeowners are not professionals. It can also be done by removing track remove old seal do a great cleaning install new seal and reinstall track. This is a safe way. It is much easier plus if metal track and not aluminum I paint the track. Not all are aluminum. Safety always comes first. Watch all the videos doing this, very interesting.
Based on what, exactly? The fact that it has worked flawlessly since I posted this? UA-cam is by definition a place to view others, so we have that covered. This post is also a rare gem in that it highlights what not to do as well, and why. Very useful for viewers who want to avoid the same problems.
I just replaced mine today on our 2-car roll-up door. The only hassle was that my rubber seal had flanges that were too wide to fit into the slots on my garage door.
To resolve this issue, I took a packing knife and trimmed off the flanges off of the inside surface, leaving only flanges on the outside surface Then it would easily fit into both slots.
Luckily my wife saw me struggling to get the first 18-inches slid-in. She offered to help. It took us about a half hour working together where she was pushing the rubber seal in one the left end of the door, while I was pulling it with a pair of pliers on the other end. Very slow work because of the rubber binding across the expanse of our 18-foot door.
Watching your video I'm really happy that my door doesn't have that tensioner cale on both ends.
Excellent video. Thank You 😀
Thank you! I will continue to call and pay for work like this. Appreciate the information, eventually I’ll try it one day.
Also is recommended that you use two bolts to lock the door open on the track.. each one on both sides.... that's going to help the door stay open and not move back and forward when you adjust the cables.
I want replace the bottom seal of my 16ft garage door, it's 20 years old and about 3 inches short on one side. The seal I have is not the 2 T channels like I see on most UA-cam videos, mine has only 1 channel, so I decided to replace the seal and the retainer with new hardware.The rertainer has a bracket on both ends that are held by 3 bolts, 2 bolts are in the retainer, so I will remove these 2 bolts while the door is at the top (less tension) this will allow me to remove the retainer while the bracket is being held by the 3rd bolt, the cable will remained attached to the pulley & spring. I was surprised you removed the cable, I would have been afraid of something really bad happening, but you made sure cable was not under tension, mine look a bit under tension. After you did this your cable unspooled and you created a mess you had to fix, thanks for your openess and transparency, most people would not publish it, thanks again for your video.
Thanks. :D I left that in there because I wanted people to understand how easy it is to screw that up, as well as the unpleasant consequences of getting it wrong.
Also use some siliconic oil to lube the seal track and it will slide in easier if you cleaned the track very well before...
just wanted to thank you for the step by step tutorial. Replaced my garage door weatherstipping today after watching your video. Really appreciate the tips. Especially the loading of the cable spool!
Great video! You tell what can go wrong. I needed to know how to take the brackets off. Garage door repair can be very dangerous if you just start taking things apart! Safety first.
Suggestion, get a strong bungee cord, hook one end on the cable loop that was just disconnected from the door and hook the other end on one of the rail brackets that secure the rail to the brick. Bada bing, there's your tension.
Great video, thanks for the tips! I absolutely recommend you to place your warning/disclaimer at the beginning of your video as the tension in the cable could lead to massive injury as you stated! Thanks again!
I have found using a chain vice grip helps to hold the spring/bar tension in its place while removing the shackle and use a couple of rubber bungee cords to tention the cable .
Best to attach an "anchor line" to the cable before taking the cable off its attachment to the door, to prevent that mess of unspooling cable.
Thank you for the video. Your old one was about 2 or 3 inches shorter than the length of the door on each side. Is it supposed to be that way for ventilation or did it just shrink over time? I noticed you put the new one to the edge.
I don't think that was properly done before. Gaps in the seal just make it easier for critters to scoot under the door.
My door won’t lock or shut all the way now. It’s not a powered door. Will the new seal relax/settle?
It should, yes. Those seals aren't very thick.
Thank you so much!
Should change title to, DO Not Do What I Do.
You should not remove the brackets. Only loosing 2 of the screws very slightly enough to squeeze in the new strip.
Glad you found it helpful. You're welcome. People are at liberty to awkwardly squeeze in the new strip if they think that's easier. I don't. People wanting to do it the Fernando way should go to the video Fernando posted.
Too many words to explain simple procedures!! To the point and concise explanation please!!
It's for a general audience. Skipping what you don't need is what UA-camrs are supposed to do. Some people need the details. Also, separated not one hour from your comment was someone else complementing me for being so "clear and concise". His exact words. How people approach these things is very interpretive, and pleasing everyone with a bee in their bonnet about my style is not possible.
Where did you buy your weatherstripping
Is this a Martin Door Garage door? Thank you
Not a Martin Door. Probably built similarly though.
@@DoctorFixMaster thank you so much for your answer and your video!
@@reginag.a.4187 No sweat. I hope it was helpful. Happy New Year!
@@DoctorFixMaster Happy New Year!
It's not a difficult job at all, but you made it look so difficult.
Do tell how to make it simpler. I post my mistakes so people know what to watch out for. Things can get nasty in a hurry if those cable drums come unwound or get tangled up. How to avoid that is an important precaution.
There are also lots of ways to get yourself hurt when dealing with spring loaded garage doors. Spending time to educate people about that is worth the investment. I don't want people watching my videos and getting themselves hurt because they get cavalier about the job and ignore what can go wrong.
Great video! I had the same issue and used your video to solve the problem. I put a screw in the wall where there cable is and then looped the cable on to the screw to keep the tension on it. Removed the bracket and replaced the seal then with no issues . Thanks again!
tie the cable to the door rail!
Yep...that's why I posted this. It isn't so obvious in the moment, and securing it properly isn't as easy as people seem to think. Be careful!
Forget that! I’m glueing another one right to the bottom.
I wouldn't recommend that. Glue would be a mess and a temporary bandaid. I've never had any luck gluing anything, but it's quite up to you. :)
One word: Tripod.
Like "insufficient"
Why not just pop the wheel out of the tracks? Try that next time buddy. 😜
It isn't built that way. To access the end of the door to thread the weather stripping, the end bracket must come off completely. Taking the wheel out doesn't help you.
@@DoctorFixMaster Hey and thanks for the reply back. Check out this video please, not me. I did my first door alone, just like you before I watched your video, less my cable coming lose. Not trying to start an argument, just getting a better grasp of this, "Not so easy" project doing it alone.
ua-cam.com/video/ks5iiEjo1SU/v-deo.html
U are so wrong doing the seal on door. I suggest u view others. We do not want a homeowner removing any bolts or fooling with cables. It is very dangerous. Springs and cables can cut your hand off. Remember homeowners are not professionals. It can also be done by removing track remove old seal do a great cleaning install new seal and reinstall track. This is a safe way. It is much easier plus if metal track and not aluminum I paint the track. Not all are aluminum. Safety always comes first. Watch all the videos doing this, very interesting.
Based on what, exactly? The fact that it has worked flawlessly since I posted this? UA-cam is by definition a place to view others, so we have that covered. This post is also a rare gem in that it highlights what not to do as well, and why. Very useful for viewers who want to avoid the same problems.
Where did you buy your weatherstripping
Where did you buy your weatherstripping
Lowes or Home Depot has common varieties. I got mine from Lowes.