How To Replace Your Damaged Garage Door Bottom Seal! NOT AS EASY AS YOU THINK! The DIY Truth!
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO:
Garage Door Seal Bottom Rubber Weather Stripping - amzn.to/3Lm0Gfi
WD-40 White Lithium Grease Spray - amzn.to/3eSeXUR
Retractable Utility Knife - amzn.to/3RSxXkT
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Winter is coming! On this video I will be showing you How To Replace Your Damaged Garage Door Bottom Seal or weather bottom seal stripping. A lot may say this is a super easy project to do, BUT it may not be AS EASY AS YOU THINK! I'll show the install in real time and struggles you may encounter on this once thought of easy install. The DIY Truth!
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#garage #door #diy
ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO:
- Garage Door Seal Bottom Rubber Weather Stripping - amzn.to/3Lm0Gfi
- WD-40 White Lithium Grease Spray - amzn.to/3eSeXUR
- Retractable Utility Knife - amzn.to/3RSxXkT
PZ A0 *
The strip I received from Amazon had curves in the plastic, so when installed both looking at it and closing the door the door does not seal. You can see the sunlight outside from the inside where the long strip was curled. Any suggestions on how to smooth the bended and buckled spots? The door can not be pushed down any tighter.
I just did this a few weeks ago. My doors are only 9 feet wide. The first door we did several months ago, it was BRUTAL. I felt I had cleaned the track pretty dang good, and it ended up taking 3 of us to get it installed. I was constantly applying lube to the track and it still took us over 3 hrs to complete. The next one was another story. I cleaned the track even more vigorously, water, wire bristle brush, more water, brush again, water again, then blew it out with air from compressor. Due to some burs in the track, it started to tear the weather stripping. My Son-in-law was visiting and he had an idea. I had bought the weather stripping as a 20 ft roll from amazon. we had trimmed off some excess and had a section about 5 inches long. My Son-in-law took that small section and ran it back and forth along the track checking for burs and as it turns out, a lot more dirt came out of the track. With the track now plowed clean, we started over, it took 3 of us 10 minutes to completely install the weather stripping. Two people pulling, one person feeding the weather stripping along. I believe the key to a smooth installation is a CLEAN track. Brush it, wash it, brush it, and wash it again, but the best thing you can do, is to plow the road with a small section of the track. Awesome video by the way, I watched it before tackling this project. And yes, I took a small file and smoothed out the 2 or 3 burs we encountered.
Great tip!
PRO TIP:
Step 1: Feed the inside track across the length of the door. Its very easy to do just the one rail by yourself. The seal will just hang from that rail with the inner tube facing out
Step 2: Working from one side to the other, slip the back lip of the front rail "T" in the slot. Hold the "T" at an angle to slip it in and hold it in place.
Step 3: Using a PLASTIC screen roller, roll the front lip of the rail "T" in the track. Use the concave side and be firm but careful as not to cut the rubber lip.
Step 4: Trim the ends leaving approximately 1/2" overlap to account for expansion and contraction.
You'll know it is in properly when A) it doesn't fall out and B) slides left and right across the length of the door with minor effort. The rubber will stretch and slack at different points so it's best to work it back and forth as you move across the length of the door.
The whole effort took 15 minutes once I stopped trying to feed both rails at the same time as shown in the video. Your shoulder will thank you by doing it this way. IYKYK
Great video, thank you!....Keep in mind that lithium grease is petroleum based and will break down rubber products. Use silicone lubricant. .(..Same reason you don't want to use petroleum jelly with condoms).
😲
This may be in the comments somewhere, but it would be helpful if you advised people that the tracks holding the seal in place are different shapes depending on the manufacturer of the door. The rubber seals have edges that are either T shaped, bead shaped, triangle shaped, L shaped, etc. Dimensions for the seal's edges are important. If the seal doesn't match the aluminum guide you are installing it in, it may not fit, and if you do get it installed, it may pop out in use if the seal and guide do not match..
Yep, got me.
THANK YOU!!!!! I could not understand why my new seal did not slide into a tract, so I took the tract off… thank you.
Thanks for that info!
Great information thank you!
I went to help my neighbor yesterday with his. He was out there forever trying to get it in.... I do home Reno stuff and went to put it in and I was like ...wait....it's not going in because the "T" is 1/8 of an inch too wide....there's no way this is the right one....I pulled his old one out of the trash and and out them side by side and yep.... The "T" on the nee seal was way too big....like a size 20 chick at the club trying to fit into a size 10 jeans .... Wasn't happening.
When installing flexible seals make sure you pre-cut it first and add a bit of allowance for shrinkage then let it settle on the door slot, should be pretty close to what you pre cut it to. If you install this without pre cutting it first..with all the tagging ang pulling to install it you will end up with longer excess material and if you cut that exactly the length of your door you will surely have a gap when the seal finaly settle due to shrinkage. You can also allow the seal to shrink for a few hours then cut to size + extra. Learned all this in my junior years in the Navy installing rubber seals on the ships water tight doors..We want water out of compartments to maintain watertight integrity 😁😁😁
Good tip.
Well cleaning the tracks, and generously lubing it with "silicone based" lubricant , even a rich foam from a dish washing detergent can make the installation much easier ..
and last tip: keep your your rubber seal refrigerated for a few hours prior to installation to make it a bit harder and rigid ..that helps it slide through like a hot knife into butter
I was going to replace my own seal. Glad I watched this! Need to hire a handyman for this job.
Thanks for the honest video. Just did this myself and it was one of the toughest “short” DIY projects I’ve ever done. Definitely would have been easier with a second person to help pinch and feed the tail end.
We just did this "repair" last weekend... First thing I wish we would have done is chosen a cooler day. 105 degree weather isn't the best for this task. We were miserable! But we did take your advice and went with the better seal material. We don't want to be doing this again any time soon. It was tough as my husband kept pushing up from the bottom. Once I explained that it needs to be pushed together like a Taco... it was easier. I fed through from the end and had a flat screw driver to fix it when it popped out of the track, Hubs pulled until I said stop, I'd fix the material into the track and we'd feed more though. All in all, it took us a long while but we're happy with the results. Thank you for the honest video.
Thank you so much for showing some struggle, all the other videos I watched glossed right over that and I was frustrated it was such a struggle.
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you!!! I orders my item via Amazon , arrived overnight and installed it by my self in about 45 minutes. Slide, guide and push. Great video!! You saved me at least $100
Nice job fellas! Your dad was very patient.
Thank you Marlon! Love my Dad and doing these father and son projects together 😊🙏🏽
Wow, thank you for showing us how the job could be done and the materials.
My pleasure!🙏🏽😊
I swear you have a video for every issue I am rocking with. Always great info! Thank you for your helpful easy-to-use advice and instructions 😊
I’m glad I could be of help! Thank you for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊
Just tried to do it myself. Thats why Im here. Learned a lot. Came out good. Got a new subscriber. Was fun to watch. Great video
Thanks for the video. The lithium grease is the way to go. Also greased the rubber strip before I put it in the track - that helped. Also have someone hold the non-feed end up so that the rubber does not bind.
Thank you for a great video I like the way you have door height adjusted not going all the way down and crushing the new seal. Also makes me happy seeing you help your father good man !
Thank you so much Johnny! 🙏🏽😊
Something I did was to place a cheap 1/2 inch or 5/8 garden hose inside the tube...makes it easier to grab and keeps the seal round and in shape longer and helps to conform to minor imperfections in floor
I just ordered this seal and this is exactly the video I needed thanks
I’m glad I could be of help 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Use a box cutter and slice the old rubber track in the middle from end to end will make it a lot easier to remove it.
Your comment helped me so much!!! My old rubber seal was stuck on by rust/corrosion. It wouldn’t slide out whatsoever!
@@blumby4883 Nice! I replaced mine last week too.
Do you mean basically separating the old rubber piece into 2?
@@gregz1235 YES! Run a box cutter in the middle from left to right. Also make sure you grease the tracks before sliding in the new one. Good luck!
Your a lifesaver
Good job. Determined team work makes a difference.
Picked up the products you listed and did the job. Took two people and followed your tips. Worked perfectly! Thanks!
Great video thanks. I undid the bottom rollers so the bottom panel swung out and away from the side roller channel, easier to do this operation then by yourself.
I thought about that, but the bracket that holds the bottom rollers are attached to cables either side which are under a lot of tension from the springs, not sure how you did that.
@@ernestwilson5591I rolled the door to the top, unloading the springs, the cables should not be taught, then you can do it.
Thanks man! I also found lubing the tracks to be the best.
Excellent video sir. You working with your dad makes me proud of you!!
Thank you so much! Any chance I could spend time with my Dad to get that father and son time is always my favorite! 🙏🏽😊
Great video! I’m glad to see there’s a better door seal that helps prevent memory. I was going to install a 1” backer rod when I change it but no need to with this one. Thanks from New Orleans 👍🏼🎭👍🏼
I used this video as a guide for leading an install on my family's garage door. Thank you for the information and honesty!
Nice. We got the same one and found it to be more difficult than others had claimed. We thought we were doing something wrong, but it's just a matter of a little more effort. Thank you
Same
Great job explaining the process. Thank you
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Great job by you and your pops, thanks for the video, much appreciated
We replaced ours a few years ago. Unfortunately our garage had 2x8 studs on both sides if the garage door track. No way to feed it so we removed the first rollers so the first garage door panel could be moved clearing the studs. You advice on spending time on cleaning and repair of the bottom track was very important. Lots of White lithium grease too.
Thank so much for sharing your experience and obstacles you overcame on the install. So many different scenarios that can happen! Thank you for explaining how you solve your issue! Have a great day! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Raise door to where the rollers that’s obstructing or in way of the channel that contains the seal / gasket. Bring the door up to the seal / gasket starts into curved, you’ll see an unobstructed opening to work with.
Place seal / gasket in a bucket of warm water with dish soap submerged enough to cover the gasket 😮 you’ll have a easier time sliding on.
Having a helper makes it easier.
Have fun 😊
WOW! I can't believe how cheap this thing is. I will definitely be getting a couple of these for my garage doors. I really do appreciate the video, I've had this on the list of things to do for the garageominium build and was pleased to see this video.
Glad I watched this. I just assumed the track come off and then screw it back on. 🤷♀️👍
Thank you for covering this topic.
It was my pleasure Lee! Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Thanks! Some other tips I picked up from the comments here and on other vids: The vertical tracks on both sides of the door made it very hard to feed in the rubber, so I took them off. This made it easier to access the track because I could tilt the bottom door panel inward. Even after cleaning and lubing the tracks and the rubber, I couldn't pull it through, so I put one track in place easily. Then used a screen roller to push in the other track. Still took time and elbow grease, but it worked. Also noticed that my garage floor is no longer flat due to house settling, but hoping the rubber will conform.
Thanks. I ordered the same one and will be doing it this weekend.
Thank you! I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Thanks a lot you made my life so much better really enjoy watching you video again thanks!!
I bought the KIT from Amazon for this product for my ten foot wide garage door. The kit includes a new aluminum track for the door that you slide the rubber seal into. Replacing the track as well as the rubber seal was very easy using the self-drilling metal sheet screws provided. It was easier to slide the seal into the new track because it was clean and new. (and maybe because it was only ten feet wide?) I did this on my own. Took about half an hour. JWL-New York
Great tutorial! Though, I wouldn't use WD-40 as it denatures rubber
👍 Great video. A suggestion!! You can remove the bottom roller on each end...And it will be easier to install ... Fyi 🤔
Thank you so much for the tip Skater Dude! Thank you also for the love and support! 🙏🏽👍🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse No problem 👍. Also on garage door openers you can adjust the opener pressure when door hits the floor...If the door puts too much pressure on the floor it could prematurely wear out the seal...And burn out the motor...A good test is when door is coming down...As it hits the floor the motor should stop .You can check garage door opener manual or check model online and get adjustment info ..Tracks should also get lubed and rollers every now and then...I just put dabs of grease in channel and it will work it's way on the channel..and WD 40 on the rollers ... Maybe you can do a video on garage door opener adjustments 🤔
Thanks this was really helpful. I sprayed the old gasket with some silicone spray lube and it made the removal much easier. It took me longer to identify what type of gasket I needed then to actually replace it.
Use Windex to spray in the two channels...works great with no harm to the seal.
replaced mine with the same unit today, used regular wd-40 for installation also my tracks werent crimpe din like yours, the installer folded in the ends on each side of the original seal. I think that is the secret to being able to install this by yourself, I did hav et go back and forth a bit as far as folding and guiding the seal into the channels then pushing along the bottom and creeping it along. I also finished the install by coating the rubber seal with 303 rubber protectant hopefully it helps lenghten it's lifespan! Thanks for the video and link to a superior product design.
Nice me and my father in law changed mine last year was definitely 2 person job but we used a wet silicone spray in the garage door groove and a dry silicone spray on the T of the seal so didn’t make slippery when pulled works pretty well
Thank you so much for sharing your experience and the method you and your father in law did! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Great video very helpful, I'm going to replace my garage door seal.
I’m glad I could be of help! You got this! 👍🏽😊
Great video guys! I have been putting off replacing my garage weather seal. Your video helps a lot. I am a DIY around the house and I will get this seal ordered and get to work! Good presentation and helpfully explained throughout.
Hi, I saw this video some time last year in 2022 but totally forgot about it. Then, I did this same install with the aluminum track and one of these bulbed T-track (1/4" instead of the 5/16" that you have) bottom seal rather than the one without the bulb like your original one. The material definitely thicker than ones without the bulb. I installed it myself thinking it'll be easy once I lubed it with WD-40. Basically, I'm guiding it in like what your dad was doing and at the same time pushing with my left hand like what you were doing along the length of the garage door. This pushing and feeding was like 1 inch per minute! I wished I had another person helping but another thing I found that helped was spraying WD-40 onto a towel or paper towel and then wiping it onto the rubber T-track ends as you're feeding the seal into the tracks. it actually sped things up to 2-inches per minute! Took me over 2 hours to do this. Finally, once I got it in, I thought I can fold the ends in like I did with the old one. Nope, this rubber seal is way too thick even if you cut out the bulb on the inside. I decided to use zip ties on either end by drilling a pilot hole through the back side to the front side just above the bulb that sits on the inside. Fish the zip tie through and secure. I don't tighten the zip ties at all so that either end will be loose enough to maintain the U-shape.
Anyway, after doing the installation and I'm all proud and all, I close the garage door only to find that the threshold from the compression of the seal re-opened the garage door once the seal hit the concrete. I adjusted the gap so that the garage door doesn't bounce back up. However, what I noticed is that the seal, because of it's thickness and having that bulb inside, is no longer as flexible as those thinner seals. Therefore, the gap from the garage floor to the aluminum track bottom is now anywhere between 1-1/8" to 1.5". Second thing I noticed is the top panel gets pushed against a center ledge once the door is completely "closed" but it is not. Since the bottom is raised about an inch to 3/4" due to the seal not compressing as much, the top is also raised by the same height. My top is not completely closed since there is now an inch gap where the door is actually slanted inwards after the garage door motor track tries to push against the door's top side. I think this seal is too thick and the Chamberlain garage motor thinks the door is hitting something at the bottom as the seal is trying to compress. I can't get the door to compress another half an inch with this seal. I got it to compress another 1/8" more by adjusting the force on the other side of the motor but I didn't want to go any further since my belt track starts to bend upwards to press the door against the top part of the door. The other issue I have with my garage door is that the top is a parabolic curve, which sucks to get the outer trim seal to go flush with the door. I might have to take this bottom seal out and get the traditional bottom seal without the bulb so that the door closes down half an inch further without having to correct a 2x8 board that is sticking out and preventing the door from being flush against the top. The bulb in the seal is a nice idea but the stiffness of the seal makes this installation a nightmare TBH!
Ok, I am now officially overwhelmed and will hire someone.
BOUGHT THIS PRODUCT AND WILL SEND IT BACK. EVERYTHING YOU NOTE IS WHAT I ALSO FOUND. GLAD I FOUND ‘FIX THIS HOUSE’ VIDEO AND YOUR COMMENT. BOTH MATCH MY EXPERIENCE.
@@gregohare2406 I bought a thinner seal from a garage specific outlet. It costs double or maybe 2.5x more and is 2x more flexible. That rubber seal was 100x easier to install and worked great! The adjustments to get the bottom of the door is down to like 1/8 of an inch to seal out rain and bugs! What I also did was put sheath tape (tape used for taping up vapor barriers in the basement) on the inside edges. I found out my garage door or pad is not totally flat against each other. Initially, the seal adjusts to sit flush against the concrete floor. Later, it started sitting higher up and rubbing against the frame as it closed. This will eventually wear the rubber seal on both edges, like it has done every time. The sheathing tape is super sticky and will stick to the rubber well. I just made sure to apply the tape such that the bulb flexes inward rather than outward. Works great! It's now been almost a year and everything is holding up with no rips like before. Wished I had gone and bought the rubber seal without the bulb in the first place. It costs over twice as much but it installs so much easier and it's just less hassle in the end. Just don't get the bulb-less ones from Home Depot or Lowes. Yeah, they're cheap but they're a lot wider and they rip so easily! I find that you pretty much have to replace them every year or 2! So, it ends up costing more!
It's a shame that these doors aren't designed to allow easy replacement of these seals.
@@davidb9166 Actually, if you get the right one for your door (ie: the correct width at around 2.5-3 inches and the correct T-width) it'll slide onto the T-tracks really easily. The Amazon ones are just too think even with the proper T cross sections. I think it really sucks that whatever the original contractors used is not the same stuff that's being sold in Home Depot or Lowes. The materials in big box office stores are crap. I had to spend a bit more money to replace the aluminum track and the rubber seal that worked like a charm. The stuff from Home Depot or Lowes are always for thicker doors and doesn't fit any of the existing standard garage door panels.
Thanks for the nice, easy, and honest video. Very helpful in terms of what to do. That said, the seal itself recommended from Amazon was not optimal for my door. Not blaming you for that one, but maybe just make mention that bix box store options may work as well, as it did in my case with a Home Depot product. But again, thanks for the help!
I guess it would help if you lubricate the rubber edges before you insert it into the channels. Even watering them might make the job easier.
Thank you for all your videos.
Nice job. I need to replace my bottom weather strip too...water leak into my garage when it rains. My door is under 10 years old but like you've mention...manufacture used cheap products and it didn't last long. Thanks for sharing
I have been dreading this. Totally agree with the new product being better. Thanks
Well I do agree that it is definitely not as easy as you think! Removing the old weatherstrip was the hardest part, I didn't have to deal with the corners of the channel pinched together but for some reason whoever installed the weather strip they ran sheet metal screws through each end of the strip which were not not visible. I couldn't figure out why I could not get this to slide out. I finally took a utilty knife and started to cut it out then saw the screws on either end. I'm not sure now why I did this but I took the track off to clean it out which did help a lot with installing the new weatherstrip. I had a can of spay silicone lubricant which I sprayed both ends of the channel with, as soon as my wife came home I had her help me pull this through the track while I lined it up and fed it through. I had a little over 1.5 hours removing cleaning and reinstalling the track and about 45 minutes with my wife helping putting the weather strip back. The job did turn out fine, it was my first time maybe if I had done one or two before it might have gone easier.
Great video. It helped with my garage seal replacement.
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
I just ordered mine Unfortunately, I gotta do it myself. Good job guys.
You got this my friend! Just take your time and use the grease to make it a little easier, I did mine too myself and it wasn’t as much longer, but it was worth it in the end 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Thank you so much for your video, first one I found here, I need to replace mine way to old and bad quality also, I like the rubber stripping you’ve got, looks strong . I need to check if the track on my door will be same fitting before buying. I thought I could do it myself but looking at your video, sure I will need help . Thanks again for a very well explained steps and info to change the weather stripping in a garage door.
Also, thanks to the added info from all messages here
So I have to do that same job on 2, 9' doors, thanks for showing me a few tips.
I’m glad I could be of help Rob! Wish you the best on your project! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Thanks, always welcome information and great presentation.
Thank you Lisa! Means a lot! 🙏🏽😊
Long but I'll tell you what worked for us!
Ok, even though I cleaned and lubed the track very well with dishsoap, and ran a five-inch section of seal through the track to verify its cleanliness, the outside seal kept falling off the track as my husband fed it, and I guided it into the track. We took it completely off the track, and my husband doused the seal with more soap. I had to wipe a lot of it off. I wanted to test if the outside track was really bent or not, so we put the seal through the outside track only. The process was quick and easy. With all the soap on the loose seal edge, I used my thumbnail to shove the loose edge into the inside track. It worked! I had used a cheap dollar store paint brush to clean the track so I used the blunt end to shove the seal into the track. With all the soap, it went on like a charm.
I did all the cleaning and lubing up for the second track. Instead of dousing the outside track with soap, I used less than my husband but more than I initially used for the first seal. We slid the outside track on easily. Then, without any soap, I used my thumbnail to shove the seal into the inside track. I used a soaped-up toothbrush to "paint" the blunt end of the paint brush and used force, like before, to insert the seal into the track while my husband held the seal up to the track to guide it. I then used that toothbrush to spread soap on the inside of the seal itself. There were two dents in the track, so my husband suggested a tongue depressor. I gently used a craft stick to shove the seal into the track. The second dent was very close to the end of the track and took a lot of "doing."
Hope this helps!
Thanks man, this is really helpful.
I’m glad I could be of help! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Excellent installation video!
Thank you for the video.. all the issues you were having is what I am experiencing right now. I will have to get someone to help me "feed" it through. I also went to Amazon and bought the Lithium Grease Spray
I could be wrong but I thought that lithium grease would break down the rubber seal and that silicone spray shoud be used.
Thank you for this video! Just did mine and wow it is even worse doing by yourself.
Used the exact same product and after cleaning the grooves in the door with a brass wire brush and spraying wd40 in both grooves, my wife and I finished in under 15 minutes. More importantly no yelling or screaming was involved. We found it easier to just push from just the one end (the end you feed from) as you noticed later on in your video (thank you). We cut it afterwards to ensure we did not cut it short. I am thinking of 'filling' in the holes (circles) at each end to prevent water from getting in there.
THANK YOU!
Thanks for such a clear demo. I was looking to see if this is a DIY project I can manage. I’ll get a helper and try this method.
Thank you. I think I saved about $200 on what I was quoted buy a company to do it for me. Having a person help push the seal material through was critical. My wife was able to help me. I don't have strong hands so I used groove-joint pliers on the front end to pull it through. I had about 2 feet of extra as most two-car garage rolls are 18 feet. I pulled through about six extra inches and trimmed off any possible damage on the front of the seal material from using the pliers on it. I also had to straighten out bends in track as you did in your video. The set screws were over-tightened which lead to some bending. I didn't see a need to put the set-screws back in as I used a heavy-duty seal that should stay put on its own.
Thanks for the great video. I will be doing this soon.
So much easier to remove if you just cut it down the middle with a box cutter first. And so much easier to install if you raise the door so the bottom is up where the rails begin to curve.
Great video. Thank you!
Thanks so much for this video. I was looking for this weather strip and could not find it.
May I suggest that you dust the rubber seal with corn starch. It is very slippery and silky. It will help with moving the seal into place
My parent's garage - it must be 17 years old - and the garage motor repair guy said all the stripping should be done as it "well shrunk" from the edges. Great tips, and the better edging style; would not have known to ask about that.
I did it alone once… very challenging, but worth it.
Awesome thank you so much. Exactly what I was looking for and the links really helped!
Esto es en algún momento que necesito hacer, pero no estoy seguro de cómo. Gracias por esta información y demostración.😊
Thank you for posting this helpful video
All good, i used channel locks (pliers) to pull my new seal into thru the channel.. i did it myself..feed-pull..feed-pull .. yeah it took longer than two people would.. the seal would bind some when feeding it.. little frustrating but do able..
Thanks for saving me a bunch of time. Your mom's slippers are the best. How much does your dad charge? Could use his help.
I am about to do this, however I do not have a channel. Someone just nailed the seal to the bottom of my garage doors. They are rotting already from the water. Ahhh fun fun fun. I'll have to get one with a channel and give it a shot. 💪🙂👍
I did mine by myself, but my garage has two 10’ doors, so there’s a lot less friction than that double door. The key is to keep the infeed side propped up so it’s parallel with the bottom of the door.
Thank you for sharing with us your technique and experience Dave!
yea i stuck a welding rod in my wall and stuck the roll on it...still needed another person.
yes his dad had the right idea .... he was already feeding the seal in from a point higher than the track itself.
You should crimp the ends of the aluminum track. The rubber seal will shrink over time leaving a gap. when cleaning out the track before installation use a stiff brush and get all the grit out. Dish soap also works as a lubricant. Like a pervious commenter said the T shaped ends can be different sizes making it difficult to install. While the inner tube is helpful, if the opener is adjusted properly not to squish the weather-stripping it is not needed.
I also wanted to seal the sides and the top of the door, as I am wishing to convert the garage to an art studio for my wife. I am from Australia, so we don't have the extreme cold weather you have in the USA, but dust, leaves and insects are a problem.
Nice You might want to add a protectant before installing soak seal in 303 much easier to install plus will help seal once a year spray down seal CHEERS
Awesome job. Thank you for sharing.
Your videos are top tier my friend. 🔥
It actually was as easy as I thought! I tried to get help based on your video, but it turns out I didn't need it. I think you had a hard time because 1) the tracks were crimped and 2) you didn't spray the lube in the tracks until you'd already started. I was able to get it in by feeding it and pushing it along, pulling it occasionally. Thanks, though, for the great video! I wouldn't have known what to do without it!
Great job! Thanks for sharing the video and installation tips!
Welp, that makes up my mind. I'll be hiring someone to fix the seals on my garage doors.
Good job. I have to replace the weather stripping on my garage door. How about a video on installing the insulation on the inside of the garage door like on your fathers door.
great video, very informative. Thanks!
There is a lot of factors that play into why it wasn't going smoothly. I think the number one factor is the size (thickness) the T is.
I think a simple google search on the manufacturer spec would help with some guidelines.
Other than that, great video! I've learned a couple things.
So I bought and installed this by myself and it took about 20min from start to finish. I have a problem now that my garage door is not closing because the seal is much thicker than the previous one. It will go all the way down and then reverse all the way back up…suggestions?
There are generally adjustment screws in the side and or back of the main motor housing that are for adjusting how much downward pressure is applied by the garage door motor and these adjustment screws can be used to increase and or decrease the amount of force that is applied to the garage door. There are marking or an arrow printed on the opening to these adjustment screws, that indicate which direction to turn the screws...either clockwise or counter clockwise to help set the door so that it will close properly. There are videos here on youtube that help show and explain it better that I just did.
Wouldn't removing the last set of roller wheels give you more room? Would be able to fold out that last panel. Only asking because I'm about to do this job next week haha
Yes, you can and it’s a lot easier. Just clamp two vise grips pliers under the wheels of the second panel to keep the door from falling down.
I’m surprised no one said it before.
This is a great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much! I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
I need a new seal. I used your link to order mine!
I would suggest disconnecting the bottom guide wheels to allow the door panel to swing down making channel access far easier
Some bottom guides have a tension cable attached to the bracket. That would be dangerous to do.
Up north, the tracks are sometimes crimped due to ice on the ground in winter that causes these seals to come out of the track as the door is opened.
Thank you for the very informative video!
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Great video -- reinforces the need for me to hire someone as I can no longer do this myself anymore. We also have insulation weather stripping on both sides of our 2 garage doors, and they need to be replaced as well due to age and weathering.
Steve, who can I hire to instal weather stripping for the sides and bottom seal. Handyman or garage guy?