Thank you, Frank! I ordered a color wheel for my optima hd146x after finding and watching a few of your videos. While I waited on shipping (FROM NEW JERSEY!) I watched your videos and practiced partial disassembly. Last night after a long day at school, I replaced the color wheel in less than an hour with this video playing along with me as the projectors are 85% the same. Thank you, my projector is so quiet (as it never had been - I got it used and it’s buzzed like a sawmill in the weeks since picking it up). I absolutely couldn’t not have ever ever done it without you! Not all heroes wear capes, my friend! Thanks!
Thanks for the guide. The plastic cover around the color wheel had heat damage. Replace the color wheel and sanded the plastic. Works for now. Had to reassemble after month after disassembly so the screw positions was quite helpful. Thanks again.
Great video - nice relaxed pace. I successfully replaced the colour wheel on my Optoma and I am sure it would have been a disaster if it weren't for your instructional video. Thanks so much.
Thank you from Brazil, Frank! I know electronics but projectors are definitely outside my expertise. Your video showed all essential points and I was able to successfully change the lamp, the color wheel and the fan. It also saved my neck, after my wife got me with the beloved projector torn apart :)
Excellent video! You just saved me $800. I’m a total putz but your video was so clear I had no problems whatsoever. Works like new! Thanks for the service!
I just did an HD27 color wheel. The color wheel assembly is almost identical, except mine has rubber bushings between the three screws and the color wheel. The first time I totally missed them and it was humming, but picture looked beautiful. Took it back apart. Discovered the bushings. Moved them over to the new color wheel. But now the darn thing loses the index sync after about 60 seconds. What’s even more confusing is this only happens when it’s hanging from the ceiling 😂 works fine sitting on a table. Great video! I think mentioning the types of screws is great because it’s easy for forget. Thanks!
Id make sure nothing is moving when you flip it over. Like a wire falling near the CW sensor. That would cause it. Thanks for mentioning the bushings. I will make a note of mentioning that.
@@FixitFrank thanks for the reply! I finally got it! I don’t think the bushings were seated all the way. I reseated them and the index sensor. I also made sure the ribbon cable wasn’t touching the index cable. Seems to be working. Colors look amazing again! I filmed the whole thing. Gonna post in a few days. I will link to your video. Thanks for the help!
I'm pretty surprised that such an old fashioned idea as a colour wheel is still in use in these projectors. It's like something logie Baird would come up with 😄👍
Thank you for the video - it was very helpful! My Optoma has been buzzing for about 2 years now - I ordered the parts off eBay as my local repair guy said he will have to import and about triple the price compared to eBay. Have been putting off doing the repair (naked bulb replacement and colour wheel) myself for a while now - but finally did and OH MY - WHAT AN IMPROVEMENT. Granted the projector is 10+ years old with original parts - but damn it’s so much better - my colour wheel en Lense were both super foggy.
Thanks frank. My HD26 (bought it in 2015) never stopped working. Just few days ago the bulb went out! The color wheel snapped 😂 almost same time. WhatI found is that, due to ceiling mounted the excessive heat started to melt the housing just under the wheel housing and the plastic once cool, chiseled the wheel. Put new wheel, scrapped the plastic and new bulb and went back to normal until a laser comes!
Thank you so much for these instructions. I diagnosed and replaced a noisy colour wheel after watching your videos. My used optoma hd143x is now whisper quiet on eco mode!
Everything went together smoothly, but not working. The new color wheel spins freely as exemplified at 7:55 of your excellent video. But once the color wheel shroud & metal housing are installed as demonstrated at 9:31, the wheel does not spin freely. All the pin registers & mounting screws & holes line up perfectly. Jiggled it until I got the wheel to spin freely. Tightening the screws - same result. Putting the lamp housing in place also seems to knock it out of alignment - if that's what's happening - so the wheel doesn't move. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you. .
@@FixitFrank Fyi in your video you say not to put your finger on the wheel. My big dumb ass did just that and cleaned it with a micro fiber glasses cloth. it worked well without damage. projector shines like its brand new.
Its not the end of the world. Its just one of those things that are better if you don't. since you cleaned it off, you should not have any issues for at least another 5+ years.
Excellent my 2014 HD230x had the same buzz at first I thought it was all those years of dust build up but, it’s the wheel me thinks, should do surgery on my PJ once I’ve got the part seems simple enough not to rush it and a delicate careful job thanks for this video really appreciate it👍🏻
Question. I thought I did everything the right way, but when I tested it there was this intense grinding noise. It does turn on again which is good. The picture does display. I don't have any orange lights. It's just incredibly loud. Any clue what the culprit could be?
You are probably super close. Check the metal end that goes over the front of the light tunnel, right after the color wheel. Also make sure the foam pad under the color wheel didn't pick-up and get stuck/getting cut by the wheel. Also make sure the metal frame that the wheel is mounted to is sitting straight and didnt get caught on one of the alignment pins on top of the light tunnel.
hi Vaju, That is usually an indication that one of the fans is not rotating or it is not reporting that it is rotating. Usually its the lamp blower fan but it can be any of them..
Hi frank could you help me? I did exactly what you did every step. So i turned it on but it has a blue purple color problem. I have image but the colors are the problem. Do you know to fix this.
Are you 100% sure its the right color wheel? That sounds like the index mark is in the wrong place or its the wrong wheel. That little black sticker needs to be in the same place on both wheels. I'll see if I can figure out how to get into the service manual. I have my HD26 here with me so I will see. In the meantime make sure you have the proper color wheel for that model. The color segments should be in the same order and size as the old one.
@@FixitFrank oh oh... well i hope i got the right one. I have a optoma hd28dse. Cant really believe it has another collorweel. Im going to see if the weel is correctly installed like you say. Thank you
@@FixitFrank hi frank... they did send me the wrong one its for hd23 😅🤦. Now i make a New order for hd28dse. Il let you know when i got it. Thnx again for youre help.
I ordered a "compatible" color wheel for an HD141X and it appears to already include its black plastic assembly. I think I will attempt to only unscrew and replace that part if possible. I guess I will also need to see if the index is in the right spot compared to my old one.
Full success! I just unscrewed my index sensor (the new assembly didn't come with one) and screwed it right back onto my new one. Everything went perfect. And we'll just ignore that I have an extra screw now ~
Great video thanks. Replaced the colour wheel on an HD141X picture is perfect however projector is making a whining noise. Any idea on what this could be?
Id see if the wheel is running on that little metal bit on the end of the light tunnel. There is also a chance that wheel is defective. I recently have experienced a few color wheels that were defective from amazon, so if you got it from there, you might want to think about replacing it again with a wheel from a different seller. I'd focus on the possibility of it rubbing on something first but.
I suppose I can follow this with Optoma HD23? Just changed new lamp but seems like color wheel is not turning and perhaps thats why lamp led is on and power led is blinking. And I don't get the the Optoma logo or picture at all.
@@FixitFrank I checked the wheel and it’s not broken and rolls when I try it. I can’t see any visible problem but I guess wheel can still be broken somehow. I bought is as used and seller said lamp is missing and needs a new one, also color wheel might need to be change. Perhaps I just order a new color wheel.
Partly by looking. Make sure the wires are soldered tightly. That is what I see fail. Otherwise they are dirty. On very rare occasions, the sensor can be faulty but it is VERY rare. I would order a color wheel from a seller who allows returns in case there are deeper issues. If a new wheel does not spin it may be a mainboard problem which is pretty hard to fix.
@@FixitFrank Ok, I'll open the unit and check the sensor and I clean it while doing it. If that does not help, I'll order the color wheel. Thanks for your help Frank, I have learned a lot.
Thank you so much for your informative step-by-step video! I like the fact that you didn’t cut anything out and it help me replace the color wheel in my optoma.
You're very welcome! I'm glad the video was helpful and thanks for letting me know that leaving it all in was useful. I am always torn between editing more and leaving the long bits in. I will leave the long bits in. Thanks so much for watching!
Hi FixitFrank, I have an Optoma HD26, I changed out the bulb because it wouldn't light up and the light bulb red trouble light was lit. I did the bulb change and nothing, unit cycles, color wheel turns, fan turns on, but the light won't turn on. I found the bulb leads are only showing 6 volts. Possible power supply issues?? any ideas?? Thanks.
Hi George! For future reference, you don't want to measure the power to the bulb. The startup voltage is in the thousands of volts and will blow up most meters. It also is not normal power. It is high frequency AC. Most meters cant measure that anyway. However you can still check to see if the power to the ballast is good. you should have 380vdc to the ballast power input when the projector starts up. I would make sure the color wheel has the index mark still in place. If the color wheel is not sensed correctly the lamp will not ignite. I'd check the color wheel index first. Then check for the 380vdc on the input power to the ballast. If you have the 380 and the color wheel is OK, then I would be suspect of the ballast.
@@FixitFrank I have the same problem, lamp led is red, replaced the lamp but the 1080 doesnt work. The lamp doesnt go on. Must I replace the color wheel or can i check somehow before?
Hi, just did a colour wheel install from your video. All was great I’ve now got a super quiet projector. The only issue is the projector doesn’t respond to the remote control anymore. I can’t see that I’ve unplugged anything I shouldn’t. Any ideas. Cheers
Hello fellow hd26 owners! I am on my second bulb. Yesterday the projector lost its reds, things all went more orange and green, and the image looked very compressed/posterised.. I assumed this was the colour wheel. Today the projector boots up, and seems to test itself as the main bulb kind of faintly lights up with each colour over about 30 seconds, and then the projector switches off with an orange light on and another orange light flashing. Does this sound familiar to anyone? My guess is it needs another bulb and a clean, or is the bulb OK and the colour wheel is broken? Been researching but haven't figured it out..
That sounds like a color wheel. These are known for that. I'd suggest removing the lamp and holding down the lamp door switch. Then fire it up and see if the color wheel spins up a few times before throwing a lamp error. If it only spins up once and errors, the color wheel is definitely the issue. What happens is the little black mark falls off the wheel. Another possible cause is the output inductor on the ballast might be arcing over. Its the brown transformer looking thing near the lamp connector on the power module. Look for melting/burning on that. I think you have a color wheel issue by your comments, but those are the other possible causes.
@@FixitFrank thanks framk, I'll pull it apart and take a look. You're on a kind of superhero mission here by the looks of things, much appreciated! After looking for replacements online it seems these optomas are still pretty good, was very happy with it and can't afford a new one so shall cross my fingers..
@@subspaceanomaly Thanks man! I appreciate that. The HD26 is still a very good projector. Its built far better than the UHD 4K series in my opinion. That color wheel is pretty cheap. I did on my HD26 and used it for a while before I sold it.
Thank you so much for this video. I just replaced my color wheel and my projector no longer sounds like a jet engine! I replaced the lamp as well (which just blew, so why not change both?) and the projector is like new.
@FixitFrank Followed your steps and put everything together but now when I try to power it on I hear a "click" and the light bulb indicator goes a solid red. Thoughts?
I decided to take the entire fan housing assembly again and unplugged its other 2 connections and reseated them. By some stroke of luck the fan kicked on this time and I am golden. Thanks for the video.
I'm sorry I don't have one yet. No one as sent one for replacement. If you want to send yours I'll do it for free(you pay shipping) and I can make a video.
thanks for the video. I learned a lot. After checking the color wheel and replacement of the bulb, my optoma hd26 still doesn't work. Standby led switches from red to blue when turning on. Then a clicking sound like a relay and the standby and bulb led switching to constantly red. No sounds from the unit ventilator or color wheel. Do you have any idea what the problem is?
Hard to say exactly. I have a few theories. The click is the relay turning on the main power supply. You have a board supplying ~380DC as well as 12/3.3v to the mainboard. The power supply also incorporates the ballast. 1. Are you sure the lamp door switch is held closed? 2. Inspect the solder connections on the ballast connector on the mainboard. I have a problem in this video with one. ua-cam.com/video/SU89j8NoyBc/v-deo.html 3. Inspect the power supply for a damaged Power control IC. If it failed, it will be visible. I would start there and see what you find. I still have the projector in the video if you have any specific questions that I can confirm on this unit.
Recently purchased a similar projector (acer H5380BD) that has some display issues. When their is no image or during dark scenes, bright spots - one of which is brighter and most visible - can be seen around the center and center right of the image. Also the top left corner is dimmer as if a yellow filter were overlaid mostly on the corner and to a lesser degree across the top of the image which is most apparent during bright scenes. The lamp housing and fan had plenty of dust build up. There were no visible identifiers on the bulb. Perhaps a new lamp and cleaning/adjusting the light tunnel may correct the picture?
I have a GT1080 the lamp lights up fine but after about 30 seconds or so the led lights start to flash and projector goes off. during 30 seconds no light comes out of the lens. I have cleaned the light tunnel but it hssn't helped. It is not the lamp issue.
Couple questions. How did you rule out the lamp? Does the color wheel spins up? The last time it ran, did it cut out on its own or did it turn off normally and then not restart?
Hi Thansk for the reply. I am a lamp seller. I have a number of them with and without the housing.I suspect C wheel must have been spinning otherwise lamp would not have stayed on for 30-40 seconds. c wheel did not come to the speed so it cut off.
Ah Gotcha. That is a good way to know if the lamp is OK or not. I would be remiss to not ask though. Just to be clear, are you getting any light at all? As in no ignition? Or is it igniting, starts to get bright and stops? If you get some light(even briefly) I would check the lens of the lamp. Make sure it has the red IR block coating. If it's not there or is green, then I would be suspect of the lens. I have a picture on my community page of a bad lens coating if you want to see it. You are probably right that the CW is spinning but if its not spinning up to speed or if the speed is erratic, it will shut down. Do you have an Oscope or access to one? That is the best way to rule out the CW(if all the things before this check out).
The light did not seem to travel through the light tunnel. When I looked at the front of the lens tiny bit of light was seeping through but the lamp was fully lit I cud see it, the top plastic cover was off. Is it worth taking the dlp chip out and examin the lenses there?
I replaced the color wheel and it sounded very quiet. I bought an OEM part but now when I switch on I only really have blue and green colors, I’ve checked the connections and cleaned the sensor but no improvement, does anyone have any ideas please?
I would double check the index mark on the side. The little black mark. They need to be the same place. The symptoms you describe are the color wheel not set to the proper index. I am not sure how to access the service menu on this model to adjust it there so I move the index mark until it is with the same color segment as the old wheel.
I replaced the color wheel in my Optoma HD25-LV and now the image has a green tinge to it. I was told I have to change the CW index values in the service menu to match the index on the new color wheel but I have cycled through all the values and although it's better then when I installed it I can't seem to the the image right. Any advice!
I fixed my projector following one of your videos (it was a faulty colour wheel) and when I see videos I feel like my projector is way too loud, literally on scenes that there's audio, really puts me off as I can really hear it. Do you think could be the wheel I replaced being no the right quality? Or could it be something else?
It could be not balanced right. That foam piece is needed on the bottom but otherwise I'd expect it to be quieter. This unit was much quieter after the new wheel. A good color wheel may have balancing cuts in the hub to keep it from vibrating. It could also be a fan but I suspect now you can tell the difference between the two sounds. If you want to post a video of the noise I can listen and give you my opinion.
Such a helpful video - thank you so much. I have a new color wheel to put into my HD26 and hope it takes care of my problem. If not, I’ll find a new lamp fan as well. Can’t wait to take it apart now.
@@FixitFrank And last week I spent about 45 minutes doing the repair and it took care of it. My wife is so happy that the projector is so quiet now. Thanks again!
Frank, this HD26 should be almost exactly the same as the GT1080 color wheel replacement, correct? I'm about to tackle this sometime within the next week.
FixitFrank Thanks for your reply, Frank! I completed the replacement last night and it seems to be working well. The only issue that I ran into was tightening the three screws on the color wheel. When I tightened all the way down, the color wheel was not straight up and down and would end up rubbing the black plastic piece that contained the wheel (didn’t allow for it to spin freely). I took it apart again and made 1/4 turns on each screw in order to tighten each screw with a consistent pressure. If I tightened the screws until they wouldn’t turn anymore, it would rub again. So in the end, I tightened each screw as much as I could without the wheel rubbing. Seems to be working great so far! Thanks again for your very informative video!
Thank you for the great how to. I followed your video and didn't watch close enough when you disconnected the ribbon cable from the color wheel and the top cover panel. The clips came off and the hinge tabs seem to be damaged and not holding. Do you know where I can get some of these?
its pretty hard to find just the connector. However if you wedge the wire in with the latch, you can get it to stay. You can even use a small piece of tape to hold the latch in place. The only real "proper" solution is finding a replacement keyboard but that is expensive and really if you can get the wire to sit in the connector and the hinged latch to push against it, the wire should work. Even some scotch tape would work to hold it in place. There is heat but not a ton right there. Once the top is in place there is little stress on the connector to pull the wire out. If you want to email me some pics to weigh in on it, my email is listed on the about page.
Hi Emmanual, If you want to send it in, please email me at Sales@weezytech.com and we can go from there. HT1075 is a nice projector. What kind of problem was it having?
FixitFrank well it started as a typical “overheating “ issue that would stop it from working. Both Temp and Power light (red light) would come on after half hour or so of use. I quote and unquote overheating because rarely would it run just fine for hours. Most of the time it just die after so minutes of use. So, I opened and inspected to see if either my lamp or fans are bad. All 4 fans move freely (no glass shards) and lamp looks untouched. So I dusted everywhere and put everything back together as it should. Now every time I turned it on, you can hear the projector power on, beeps, and then double beeps, then dies. The lamp light would be red. I tried reseating the lamp, to make sure it is all the way in, but no luck. It still does the same problem. I figured to get an someone’s expertise for this machine! Can you help Frank?
Thank you, Frank! I ordered a color wheel for my optima hd146x after finding and watching a few of your videos. While I waited on shipping (FROM NEW JERSEY!) I watched your videos and practiced partial disassembly. Last night after a long day at school, I replaced the color wheel in less than an hour with this video playing along with me as the projectors are 85% the same. Thank you, my projector is so quiet (as it never had been - I got it used and it’s buzzed like a sawmill in the weeks since picking it up). I absolutely couldn’t not have ever ever done it without you! Not all heroes wear capes, my friend! Thanks!
Thanks for the guide. The plastic cover around the color wheel had heat damage. Replace the color wheel and sanded the plastic. Works for now. Had to reassemble after month after disassembly so the screw positions was quite helpful. Thanks again.
Thanks! My color wheel was broken. This video showed the exact steps to replace it. Flip down the black tab to remove the ribbon cables.
Thank you!
Great video - nice relaxed pace. I successfully replaced the colour wheel on my Optoma and I am sure it would have been a disaster if it weren't for your instructional video. Thanks so much.
That makes me smile! Thank you Garry
Thank you from Brazil, Frank! I know electronics but projectors are definitely outside my expertise. Your video showed all essential points and I was able to successfully change the lamp, the color wheel and the fan. It also saved my neck, after my wife got me with the beloved projector torn apart :)
Glad I could help!
Excellent video! You just saved me $800. I’m a total putz but your video was so clear I had no problems whatsoever. Works like new! Thanks for the service!
You're very welcome! I'm glad it worked out
I just did an HD27 color wheel. The color wheel assembly is almost identical, except mine has rubber bushings between the three screws and the color wheel. The first time I totally missed them and it was humming, but picture looked beautiful. Took it back apart. Discovered the bushings. Moved them over to the new color wheel. But now the darn thing loses the index sync after about 60 seconds. What’s even more confusing is this only happens when it’s hanging from the ceiling 😂 works fine sitting on a table. Great video! I think mentioning the types of screws is great because it’s easy for forget. Thanks!
Id make sure nothing is moving when you flip it over. Like a wire falling near the CW sensor. That would cause it.
Thanks for mentioning the bushings. I will make a note of mentioning that.
@@FixitFrank thanks for the reply! I finally got it! I don’t think the bushings were seated all the way. I reseated them and the index sensor. I also made sure the ribbon cable wasn’t touching the index cable. Seems to be working. Colors look amazing again! I filmed the whole thing. Gonna post in a few days. I will link to your video. Thanks for the help!
Excellent video👍🏻👍🏻 changed my colour wheel on my optoma hd141x. Basically the same as this setup! Thanks for the step by step process 👌🏻
Thanks so much for letting me know!! I hope you enjoy the projector for many more years!
FixitFrank i will indeed thanks to your video. Again much appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻
I'm pretty surprised that such an old fashioned idea as a colour wheel is still in use in these projectors. It's like something logie Baird would come up with 😄👍
Just replaced the color wheel and the bulb at the same time thanks to your video. You’re the best!
Glad to hear it was helpful!
Thank you for the video - it was very helpful! My Optoma has been buzzing for about 2 years now - I ordered the parts off eBay as my local repair guy said he will have to import and about triple the price compared to eBay.
Have been putting off doing the repair (naked bulb replacement and colour wheel) myself for a while now - but finally did and OH MY - WHAT AN IMPROVEMENT.
Granted the projector is 10+ years old with original parts - but damn it’s so much better - my colour wheel en Lense were both super foggy.
Thanks a lot for the video! I followed your instructions and managed to replace the color wheel of my hd141x. Much appreciated!
Great job! Thanks for letting me know 😊 enjoy your projector!
Thank you very much for creating this video! I replaced my color wheel and my projector is back up and running again.
That is awesome! Thank you for letting me know it was helpful! Enjoy your projector and thanks for watching
Thanks frank. My HD26 (bought it in 2015) never stopped working. Just few days ago the bulb went out! The color wheel snapped 😂 almost same time. WhatI found is that, due to ceiling mounted the excessive heat started to melt the housing just under the wheel housing and the plastic once cool, chiseled the wheel. Put new wheel, scrapped the plastic and new bulb and went back to normal until a laser comes!
Thank you so much for these instructions. I diagnosed and replaced a noisy colour wheel after watching your videos. My used optoma hd143x is now whisper quiet on eco mode!
Thank you so much for letting me know. That is the main reason I make these videos. Enjoy your projector!
The screw positions were crucial for me, especially because I opened it up and put it back together on different days. Thank you!
Everything went together smoothly, but not working. The new color wheel spins freely as exemplified at 7:55 of your excellent video. But once the color wheel shroud & metal housing are installed as demonstrated at 9:31, the wheel does not spin freely. All the pin registers & mounting screws & holes line up perfectly. Jiggled it until I got the wheel to spin freely. Tightening the screws - same result. Putting the lamp housing in place also seems to knock it out of alignment - if that's what's happening - so the wheel doesn't move. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you.
.
Check how the lamp basket is installed. If the metal color wheel bracket is not sitting in the grooves of the lamp basket, that can shift everything.
@@FixitFrank Thank you!. Everything is now working fine.
@@EAJoeJD glad to hear it!! Great job
Thanks again from England. Used the same video to clean colour wheel 2 years ago. Replaced the wheel this time.
That is awesome! These are the comments that keep me motivated. Nice work and enjoy the projector!
Big thank you sir for the walk through honestly took me 20 minutes to do. It was a great help
You are very welcome! I am so glad it was helpful, Thanks for letting me know.
@@FixitFrank Fyi in your video you say not to put your finger on the wheel. My big dumb ass did just that and cleaned it with a micro fiber glasses cloth. it worked well without damage. projector shines like its brand new.
Its not the end of the world. Its just one of those things that are better if you don't. since you cleaned it off, you should not have any issues for at least another 5+ years.
Excellent my 2014 HD230x had the same buzz at first I thought it was all those years of dust build up but, it’s the wheel me thinks, should do surgery on my PJ once I’ve got the part seems simple enough not to rush it and a delicate careful job thanks for this video really appreciate it👍🏻
Question. I thought I did everything the right way, but when I tested it there was this intense grinding noise. It does turn on again which is good. The picture does display. I don't have any orange lights. It's just incredibly loud. Any clue what the culprit could be?
You are probably super close. Check the metal end that goes over the front of the light tunnel, right after the color wheel. Also make sure the foam pad under the color wheel didn't pick-up and get stuck/getting cut by the wheel. Also make sure the metal frame that the wheel is mounted to is sitting straight and didnt get caught on one of the alignment pins on top of the light tunnel.
hi frank i have --HC 8350 EPSON and lamp light. &. tempreture light red is billigking. want can do i am in canada help what is the problume
hi Vaju, That is usually an indication that one of the fans is not rotating or it is not reporting that it is rotating. Usually its the lamp blower fan but it can be any of them..
Hi frank could you help me?
I did exactly what you did every step. So i turned it on but it has a blue purple color problem. I have image but the colors are the problem. Do you know to fix this.
Are you 100% sure its the right color wheel? That sounds like the index mark is in the wrong place or its the wrong wheel. That little black sticker needs to be in the same place on both wheels. I'll see if I can figure out how to get into the service manual. I have my HD26 here with me so I will see. In the meantime make sure you have the proper color wheel for that model. The color segments should be in the same order and size as the old one.
@@FixitFrank oh oh... well i hope i got the right one. I have a optoma hd28dse. Cant really believe it has another collorweel. Im going to see if the weel is correctly installed like you say. Thank you
I just mean make sure they sent you the right wheel. If you ordered for an HD26 but used it in an HD28 or if the seller sent you the wrong wheel.
@@FixitFrank hi frank... they did send me the wrong one its for hd23 😅🤦. Now i make a New order for hd28dse. Il let you know when i got it. Thnx again for youre help.
I ordered a "compatible" color wheel for an HD141X and it appears to already include its black plastic assembly. I think I will attempt to only unscrew and replace that part if possible. I guess I will also need to see if the index is in the right spot compared to my old one.
Full success! I just unscrewed my index sensor (the new assembly didn't come with one) and screwed it right back onto my new one. Everything went perfect. And we'll just ignore that I have an extra screw now ~
This was done with a genuine Acer part by the way
Extra screws are hidden inside the chassis to confuse us. I am sticking with that story. Nice job!
Great video thanks. Replaced the colour wheel on an HD141X picture is perfect however projector is making a whining noise. Any idea on what this could be?
Id see if the wheel is running on that little metal bit on the end of the light tunnel. There is also a chance that wheel is defective. I recently have experienced a few color wheels that were defective from amazon, so if you got it from there, you might want to think about replacing it again with a wheel from a different seller. I'd focus on the possibility of it rubbing on something first but.
I suppose I can follow this with Optoma HD23? Just changed new lamp but seems like color wheel is not turning and perhaps thats why lamp led is on and power led is blinking. And I don't get the the Optoma logo or picture at all.
It's basically the same. You need the color wheel to spin first before the lamp will light. Check the sensor above it too.
@@FixitFrank I checked the wheel and it’s not broken and rolls when I try it. I can’t see any visible problem but I guess wheel can still be broken somehow. I bought is as used and seller said lamp is missing and needs a new one, also color wheel might need to be change. Perhaps I just order a new color wheel.
@@FixitFrank Can I see if the sensor is broken by just looking? And it can be changed if broken?
Partly by looking. Make sure the wires are soldered tightly. That is what I see fail. Otherwise they are dirty. On very rare occasions, the sensor can be faulty but it is VERY rare.
I would order a color wheel from a seller who allows returns in case there are deeper issues. If a new wheel does not spin it may be a mainboard problem which is pretty hard to fix.
@@FixitFrank Ok, I'll open the unit and check the sensor and I clean it while doing it. If that does not help, I'll order the color wheel. Thanks for your help Frank, I have learned a lot.
Thank you so much for your informative step-by-step video! I like the fact that you didn’t cut anything out and it help me replace the color wheel in my optoma.
You're very welcome! I'm glad the video was helpful and thanks for letting me know that leaving it all in was useful. I am always torn between editing more and leaving the long bits in. I will leave the long bits in. Thanks so much for watching!
Will a color wheel stop your lamp from starting up if it's bad?
It's in a Optoma 141x projector?
Correct. It will prevent your lamp from igniting.
Hi FixitFrank, I have an Optoma HD26, I changed out the bulb because it wouldn't light up and the light bulb red trouble light was lit. I did the bulb change and nothing, unit cycles, color wheel turns, fan turns on, but the light won't turn on. I found the bulb leads are only showing 6 volts. Possible power supply issues?? any ideas?? Thanks.
Hi George! For future reference, you don't want to measure the power to the bulb. The startup voltage is in the thousands of volts and will blow up most meters. It also is not normal power. It is high frequency AC. Most meters cant measure that anyway. However you can still check to see if the power to the ballast is good. you should have 380vdc to the ballast power input when the projector starts up. I would make sure the color wheel has the index mark still in place. If the color wheel is not sensed correctly the lamp will not ignite. I'd check the color wheel index first. Then check for the 380vdc on the input power to the ballast. If you have the 380 and the color wheel is OK, then I would be suspect of the ballast.
@@FixitFrank I have the same problem, lamp led is red, replaced the lamp but the 1080 doesnt work. The lamp doesnt go on. Must I replace the color wheel or can i check somehow before?
Hi, just did a colour wheel install from your video. All was great I’ve now got a super quiet projector. The only issue is the projector doesn’t respond to the remote control anymore. I can’t see that I’ve unplugged anything I shouldn’t. Any ideas. Cheers
I'd double check the cable to the remote sensor. I bet it popped loose. Nice job on the color wheel!
@@FixitFrank Thanks for the reply. I’ll take another look.
Thank you Sir, You were a great help to us.
love your videos Frank!
Thank you kindly! Happy 2020 to you!
Hello fellow hd26 owners! I am on my second bulb. Yesterday the projector lost its reds, things all went more orange and green, and the image looked very compressed/posterised.. I assumed this was the colour wheel. Today the projector boots up, and seems to test itself as the main bulb kind of faintly lights up with each colour over about 30 seconds, and then the projector switches off with an orange light on and another orange light flashing.
Does this sound familiar to anyone? My guess is it needs another bulb and a clean, or is the bulb OK and the colour wheel is broken? Been researching but haven't figured it out..
That sounds like a color wheel. These are known for that. I'd suggest removing the lamp and holding down the lamp door switch. Then fire it up and see if the color wheel spins up a few times before throwing a lamp error. If it only spins up once and errors, the color wheel is definitely the issue. What happens is the little black mark falls off the wheel.
Another possible cause is the output inductor on the ballast might be arcing over. Its the brown transformer looking thing near the lamp connector on the power module. Look for melting/burning on that.
I think you have a color wheel issue by your comments, but those are the other possible causes.
@@FixitFrank thanks framk, I'll pull it apart and take a look. You're on a kind of superhero mission here by the looks of things, much appreciated! After looking for replacements online it seems these optomas are still pretty good, was very happy with it and can't afford a new one so shall cross my fingers..
@@subspaceanomaly Thanks man! I appreciate that. The HD26 is still a very good projector. Its built far better than the UHD 4K series in my opinion. That color wheel is pretty cheap. I did on my HD26 and used it for a while before I sold it.
Thank you so much for this video. I just replaced my color wheel and my projector no longer sounds like a jet engine! I replaced the lamp as well (which just blew, so why not change both?) and the projector is like new.
@FixitFrank Followed your steps and put everything together but now when I try to power it on I hear a "click" and the light bulb indicator goes a solid red. Thoughts?
It appears the fan is not kicking over or powering on even though I plugged it back in
I decided to take the entire fan housing assembly again and unplugged its other 2 connections and reseated them. By some stroke of luck the fan kicked on this time and I am golden. Thanks for the video.
You do need to make sure the door switch is activated. That will cause this exact scenario if the door switch is open.
@@FixitFrank thank you! Didn't even consider this.
Hi, any chance of a video of GT5000 series colour wheel replacement? Thanks! 🙏
Optoma that is!
I'm sorry I don't have one yet. No one as sent one for replacement. If you want to send yours I'll do it for free(you pay shipping) and I can make a video.
thanks for the video. I learned a lot. After checking the color wheel and replacement of the bulb, my optoma hd26 still doesn't work. Standby led switches from red to blue when turning on. Then a clicking sound like a relay and the standby and bulb led switching to constantly red. No sounds from the unit ventilator or color wheel. Do you have any idea what the problem is?
Hard to say exactly. I have a few theories. The click is the relay turning on the main power supply. You have a board supplying ~380DC as well as 12/3.3v to the mainboard. The power supply also incorporates the ballast.
1. Are you sure the lamp door switch is held closed?
2. Inspect the solder connections on the ballast connector on the mainboard. I have a problem in this video with one. ua-cam.com/video/SU89j8NoyBc/v-deo.html
3. Inspect the power supply for a damaged Power control IC. If it failed, it will be visible.
I would start there and see what you find. I still have the projector in the video if you have any specific questions that I can confirm on this unit.
Recently purchased a similar projector (acer H5380BD) that has some display issues. When their is no image or during dark scenes, bright spots - one of which is brighter and most visible - can be seen around the center and center right of the image. Also the top left corner is dimmer as if a yellow filter were overlaid mostly on the corner and to a lesser degree across the top of the image which is most apparent during bright scenes. The lamp housing and fan had plenty of dust build up. There were no visible identifiers on the bulb.
Perhaps a new lamp and cleaning/adjusting the light tunnel may correct the picture?
Frank I have got the 141x runs ok but noisy is it likely to be as colour wheel or fan.
I have a GT1080 the lamp lights up fine but after about 30 seconds or so the led lights start to flash and projector goes off. during 30 seconds no light comes out of the lens. I have cleaned the light tunnel but it hssn't helped. It is not the lamp issue.
Couple questions.
How did you rule out the lamp? Does the color wheel spins up? The last time it ran, did it cut out on its own or did it turn off normally and then not restart?
Hi
Thansk for the reply. I am a lamp seller. I have a number of them with and without the housing.I suspect C wheel must have been spinning otherwise lamp would not have stayed on for 30-40 seconds. c wheel did not come to the speed so it cut off.
Ah Gotcha. That is a good way to know if the lamp is OK or not. I would be remiss to not ask though.
Just to be clear, are you getting any light at all? As in no ignition? Or is it igniting, starts to get bright and stops? If you get some light(even briefly) I would check the lens of the lamp. Make sure it has the red IR block coating. If it's not there or is green, then I would be suspect of the lens. I have a picture on my community page of a bad lens coating if you want to see it.
You are probably right that the CW is spinning but if its not spinning up to speed or if the speed is erratic, it will shut down. Do you have an Oscope or access to one? That is the best way to rule out the CW(if all the things before this check out).
The light did not seem to travel through the light tunnel. When I looked at the front of the lens tiny bit of light was seeping through but the lamp was fully lit I cud see it, the top plastic cover was off. Is it worth taking the dlp chip out and examin the lenses there?
Thanks for the help, worked perfectly for me. I would only suggest a little more detail on how to remove amd replace the ribbon connections.
Good tip! I appreciate that. Its hard to tell what I need to show clearer so this helps a bunch. I will do a video on just that.
Would the process be the same for Optoma HD27 Color Wheel?
Definitely. The lamp is different slightly but the process is essentially the same.
I replaced the color wheel and it sounded very quiet. I bought an OEM part but now when I switch on I only really have blue and green colors, I’ve checked the connections and cleaned the sensor but no improvement, does anyone have any ideas please?
I would double check the index mark on the side. The little black mark. They need to be the same place. The symptoms you describe are the color wheel not set to the proper index. I am not sure how to access the service menu on this model to adjust it there so I move the index mark until it is with the same color segment as the old wheel.
Thanks for the advice, much appreciated!
I replaced the color wheel in my Optoma HD25-LV and now the image has a green tinge to it. I was told I have to change the CW index values in the service menu to match the index on the new color wheel but I have cycled through all the values and although it's better then when I installed it I can't seem to the the image right. Any advice!
Are you sure that the problem is in the projector and not in the cable? Try changing the Hdmi- or VGA cable.
@@gunnara7625 - thanks for the reply but I tried different cables and also different input ports. I might have to take it out again!
Great video! Thank you very much 😊
You're very welcome! I'm glad it helped
I fixed my projector following one of your videos (it was a faulty colour wheel) and when I see videos I feel like my projector is way too loud, literally on scenes that there's audio, really puts me off as I can really hear it. Do you think could be the wheel I replaced being no the right quality? Or could it be something else?
It could be not balanced right. That foam piece is needed on the bottom but otherwise I'd expect it to be quieter. This unit was much quieter after the new wheel. A good color wheel may have balancing cuts in the hub to keep it from vibrating. It could also be a fan but I suspect now you can tell the difference between the two sounds. If you want to post a video of the noise I can listen and give you my opinion.
Such a helpful video - thank you so much. I have a new color wheel to put into my HD26 and hope it takes care of my problem. If not, I’ll find a new lamp fan as well. Can’t wait to take it apart now.
Glad to hear it! Thank you for watching!
@@FixitFrank And last week I spent about 45 minutes doing the repair and it took care of it. My wife is so happy that the projector is so quiet now. Thanks again!
@@timbangert4025 That is awesome, Nice job! Enjoy the projector!
Frank, this HD26 should be almost exactly the same as the GT1080 color wheel replacement, correct? I'm about to tackle this sometime within the next week.
It should be virtually the same. Take your time and let me know if you run into any issues!
FixitFrank Thanks for your reply, Frank! I completed the replacement last night and it seems to be working well. The only issue that I ran into was tightening the three screws on the color wheel. When I tightened all the way down, the color wheel was not straight up and down and would end up rubbing the black plastic piece that contained the wheel (didn’t allow for it to spin freely). I took it apart again and made 1/4 turns on each screw in order to tighten each screw with a consistent pressure. If I tightened the screws until they wouldn’t turn anymore, it would rub again. So in the end, I tightened each screw as much as I could without the wheel rubbing. Seems to be working great so far! Thanks again for your very informative video!
thanks for this, the screw placements was useful
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
Thank you for the great how to. I followed your video and didn't watch close enough when you disconnected the ribbon cable from the color wheel and the top cover panel. The clips came off and the hinge tabs seem to be damaged and not holding. Do you know where I can get some of these?
its pretty hard to find just the connector. However if you wedge the wire in with the latch, you can get it to stay. You can even use a small piece of tape to hold the latch in place. The only real "proper" solution is finding a replacement keyboard but that is expensive and really if you can get the wire to sit in the connector and the hinged latch to push against it, the wire should work. Even some scotch tape would work to hold it in place. There is heat but not a ton right there. Once the top is in place there is little stress on the connector to pull the wire out.
If you want to email me some pics to weigh in on it, my email is listed on the about page.
Nice project.
Wanna fix my projector Frank?
Hi there. What is the model of the projector? If you are in the USA, and it is something I feel comfortable working on, we can talk about it.
FixitFrank BenQ HT1075! You actually made a video of fixing one before. Well I tried it myself but just couldn’t get it. I am based in the US
Hi Emmanual, If you want to send it in, please email me at Sales@weezytech.com and we can go from there. HT1075 is a nice projector. What kind of problem was it having?
FixitFrank well it started as a typical “overheating “ issue that would stop it from working. Both Temp and Power light (red light) would come on after half hour or so of use. I quote and unquote overheating because rarely would it run just fine for hours. Most of the time it just die after so minutes of use. So, I opened and inspected to see if either my lamp or fans are bad. All 4 fans move freely (no glass shards) and lamp looks untouched. So I dusted everywhere and put everything back together as it should. Now every time I turned it on, you can hear the projector power on, beeps, and then double beeps, then dies. The lamp light would be red. I tried reseating the lamp, to make sure it is all the way in, but no luck. It still does the same problem. I figured to get an someone’s expertise for this machine! Can you help Frank?