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Musket Matters
Приєднався 2 жов 2017
Dunk cleaning your black powder revolver.
In this episode of Musket Matters, I will explain how I "dunk clean" my Remington New Model Army black powder revolver.
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Відео
New N-SSA Shooter Series: The Revolver
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In this video, we will discuss loading, shooting, and safetying off-the-line when shooting a revolver in N-SSA competition. N-SSA Rules: www.n-ssa.org/rules-forms
New N-SSA Shooter Series: Leathers
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In this edition of Musket Matters, we will discuss your "leathers" for shooting in the North-South Skirmish Association. For shooting long arms, at a minimum you'll need a waist belt, a cartridge box, and a cap box. N-SSA Rules: www.n-ssa.org/rules-forms
New N-SSA Shooter Series: Cartridges for muzzleloaders in the North-South Skirmish Association
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This video is for people new to competition shooting in the North-South Skirmish Association. I'll go over how to make "cartridges" for use with muzzle loading arms in N-SSA competition. N-SSA Rules: www.n-ssa.org/rules-forms Cartridge tubes: www.ssfirearms.com/products.asp?cat=175 www.dixiegunworks.com/index/page/product/product_id/6775/category_id/333/product_name/XA5220 Dixie Quick Load Targ...
How to make the 1860 Final Design Enfield Paper Cartridge
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In this video we will demonstrate how to make the final iteration of the paper cartridge designed for the P1853 rifle musket. The ammunition for the 1853 Enfield evolved rapidly from about 1851 to 1860, progressing from at first being a somewhat radical design, to state-of-the-art, to obsolete, all in the space of about a decade. This version of the Enfield cartridge is arguably the pinnacle of...
How to do a load workup using a Pedersoli Sharps Carbine.
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In this video we explore doing a load workup with the Pedersoli Sharps Carbine and the Eras Gone Richmond Sharps bullet.
More details on making cartridges for the Sharps carbine
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In this video we go into more detail on how to make combustible paper cartridges for the 1859 Sharps Carbine.
Constructing paper cartridges for the Sharps carbine
Переглядів 6 тис.5 років тому
In this video we will learn how to determine the correct paper size for making combustible cartridges for the 1859 Sharps carbine, using the Eras Gone Confederate Sharps bullet. Web site for making custom graph paper (for cartridge templates): incompetech.com/graphpaper/simpleasymmetric/ Eras Gone Bullet Molds: erasgonebullets.webstarts.com/
Replacing the front sight on a Pietta Spiller and Burr revolver
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In this episode of Musket Matters we will take a look at how to replace the front sight post on a Pietta Spiller and Burr reproduction revolver.
How to render a 60 pound lead pig into ingots
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In this video we will see how to render a 60 pound "pig" of lead into smaller ingots that can be used with your production pot when casting bullets. Lost and Foundry: www.foundry101.com/ Sanders Lead: www.wileysanders.com/ (Note: Sanders is also a trucking company, but their facility in Troy, Alabama also smelts and sells lead)
Equipment needed to start shooting in the N-SSA
Переглядів 3,5 тис.6 років тому
In this episode we'll talk about the basic equipment you need to get started shooting in the North-South Skirmish Association. The N-SSA is a 501c(3) organization, founded in 1950, dedicated to competition shooting using firearms of the era of the American Civil War. www.n-ssa.org Here are some links to some of the equipment discussed in the video. Note that these are just representative possib...
I don’t do this. If you use lard to lube all you gotta do it wipe it down. Cleaning it too much will prevent it from getting a nice patina over time.
Without cleaning with hot water that evaporates quickly, I imagine a fan or air compressor could be helpful to dry the water off.
Thank you. Very appreciated.
Great job dude..😉👍👍.. Just getting started. Very helpful...
That is exactly how I clean mine except I don't use compressed air to dry but use a hair dryer to heat the gun and cylinder until it is too hot to touch. I'm confident it is dry before replacing grips and trigger guard.
So there's really no need to disassemble the whole thing I've had one sitting in storage for many years unfortunately these are the only handguns I can own I guess I can load it up now and keep it ready to rock and roll
I only do a full disassemble about once a year. Frankly, I think the wear and tear from disassembly and reassembly can be more harsh than from just using the firearm, especially if you are not careful and/or don't use good screwdrivers. It's a good idea to pull the nipples at least once a year and make sure you use anti-seize when you put them back in. This way you don't end up with stuck nipples. Dunk cleaning works great. The trick is getting it dry and that is where compressed air comes in. Do not get the idea to "bake" a wet revolver to try and dry it - this will result in extreme rusting.
Oh yeah get all that rust activated😂
As long as you thoroughly dry everything and follow up with a quality oil, rust is not an issue. I have no problems with rust on my guns.
@@musketmatters2004 I've never used water. Hops solvent only. High as well never had any rust issues.
Why remove the trigger guard
The tin cup for your shooting trash is genius! I’m going to add one and a bayonet to use as a rod holder to my musket range kit.
Good video I always just JB weld a good quality correct diameter steel nail, cut and file to sight in at 25 yards, a good steel nail won’t ever really get damaged and I have never had to replace a steel nail due to damage unlike brass.
I used WD-40 to displace any moisture after cleaning.
I like to use a hair dryer, good hot air.
As he said elsewhere, hot air increases oxidation, and he has rusted metal quickly by doing so. Of course that may not happen to everyone. Just doesn’t seem necessary.
@@profile2047 Get them dry and grease them up. CLP with Break Free slick slick.
Have you considered adding a heat gun or hair dryer to your routine AFTER you use the compressed air? When I clean the locks on my Flintlock Rifles , I clean with soap , water and an old toothbrush and then dry the lock well with a hair dryer.
I would not try it, myself. At one time I made and sold "chainmail" armour. I used to clean it and then hang it up on a pole and blow dry it with a leaf blower. Worked great. One time I had the idea to put it in the oven and bake it dry. It came out bright orange, coated with rust. As with most chemical reactions, heat accelerates oxidation.
I detail clean once a year or so but I clean very similarly to this. Always remove and oil the threads on the cones.
This is a good idea. I have been taking them completely down and wiping every bit with canola oil, of all things. Seems to work well as a crud remover and basic protectant
Great video, I’ve been cleaning my cap & ball revolvers this way for decades. I only do one thing different. I spray 90% rubbing alcohol into the action after blowing out the water. The alcohol should dissipate any water that the air might have missed. It might be pointless, but gives me peace of mind. Thanks for the pointer on turning the screws backwards. I’ve never stripped one, but have never thought of doing that.
Fascinating. I was *extremely* skeptical until I saw you use the air compressor--I couldn't imagine how you were going to get the moisture out of all the "nooks and crannies." I really wish I had access to one of those.
Aerosol ballistol sprayed into the innards works well to prevent rust after hosing them out with water
Ballistol can be emulsionated with water, so when the latter evaporates the former will still be protecting those nooks and crannies without rust. Moose's milk is my Colt's best friend.
@@Bjornvetr I think Moose Milk is pretty universal at this point, and, if not, it should be.
@@Schlachtschule Of course! First I tried pouring it in an old sunscreen spray bottle I had laying around, after a thorough hot wash, but the spray button (actuator?) was so damn hard it got stuck every two squirts and I had to use pliers or a vise to get it out. Now I went for a fancy solution: a Floyd aftershave glass bottle, with an orange vaporizer, manual pump and such. 😂
You can also clean them in the bathroom sink ( If Phyllis is not home)
Wow that tip about the rubber thread protectors for revolver charges was fantastic! I immediately went and ordered some.
Nice!
Nice!
Thanks!
"A pulse" is a classic line...I just stumbled upon your channel - nice. Unfortunately, since the Chinese Flu prices are outrageous and dues are going up again.
Great video, you answered a lot of question I had reading through the N-SSA rules and regs. Nobody on my team shoots revolver however, I have both .36 and .44 Uberti Army and Navy which I will use to compete this year. This will be my second year, and I have not been up close to study revolver competition yet. Thanks. What region are you in?
Hi Keith! I'm in the Deep South Region.
What unit are you with?
Great video I have a Remington 44 black powder another way you can load like me Im just take out the cylinder easily load it on a cylinder loader 😮😊😊😊
Looking at forming a new unit within the N-SSA. I have a Zouave and a 58 Remington 44. Where can i get the rubber cartridges?
S&S Firearms, Lodgewood mfg, Dixie gun works, North East Trade Company are some sources.
What region are you in...or state?
@@keitha.williams9561 The Upper Peninsula of Michigan. If we can make this happen, I believe we will be the furthest North unit in the N-SSA
Hello Gus, we have one member residing in Traverse City...I know there are a few skirmishers living in the upper lower...none in the UP that I know. There are Wisconsin groups (Western Region) also...do not know who will be farther north. Besides joining the N-SSA, check out ACWSA (American Civil War Shooting Association) we also shoot in Richmond, MI. The ACWSA also skirmishes in Wisconsin, it’s cheaper than the N-SSA overpriced dues.
Forth armoury appears to be out of business, the site took the money weeks ago, but they never shipped and all emails have gone unanswered
Nope, we're still around. I'll look for your order now.
Glad your still in business, and glad I left this note :)
Thanks for saving me a bunch of money on my next purchase of these tubes.
I use the red "caplugs" for my .58 caliber rifle muskets and the 20 ga storage trays into ammo cans exactly as you show here. Works really well. I don't shoot in N-SSA as I live on the wrong end of the country but it sure looks like fun.
Dude that just looks stupid as hell. better you than me dipshit.
Sir which rifled musket are shooting? One with progressiv rifling? Ich heared that intalian made Rifled Muskets has no progressive Rifling which causes probably low accuracy while Shooting them?
I have a Euroarms P1853 with a Whitacre barrel with progressive depth rifling. I also have a Pedersoli P1858 which is button rifled without progressive depth.
Started making paper patch cartridges back in the mid 70's when I got in to black powder. I had built a copy of a Hawkins rifle on display at Jefferson Memorial, I had a master gunsmith coach me name Clyde, the rifle was 54 caliber. Clyde taught me about and how to make paper patch cartridges identical to these. This was excellent, narration was concise and clear. Thank you
Don’t forget to grease them with cow or pig fat. Guaranteed to cause a mutiny!
I just joined. Using a Remington, can you load more than one cylinder for a round?
No. You shoot your six and then are done. No cylinder swapping.
Steve, I'm curious as to.your opinion on using glue versus nail polish to attach the bullet. I'm new to.the Sharps and will be shooting my first N-SSA comp next week. I've made cartridges like yours and glued my Rochmond bullet in with stick glue. Ive seen other videos that say use nail polish instead of glue. Not really sure why. Thanks. Tim
I have only ever used Elmer's White Glue or Duco Cement. Charlie Hahn recommends Duco when using his cardboard tubes. I think nail polish would probably work fine. I think it is probably advantageous to use a glue that dries hard and brittle, so that it wants to flake off the bullet on firing. Any kind of rubbery glue might tend to cling to the bullet and effect accuracy. This is just a guess on my part. But I know that historically the British made alterations to their Enfield ammunition to make sure the bullet shed its paper patch because sometimes it clung to the bullet and affected accuracy.
Another tip for individual competition: Shoot each chamber separately for group. Use only the tightest for the match.
A couple of points: 1. The top-tier competitors use round ball. Both in the N-SSA and at the World Championship level. 2. WRT powder charges, revolvers aren’t picky. I’ve shot winning scores with 9 grains of Swiss 3f. Current load is 15, with a deep sub-six hold. 3. If loading from a table in front of you, you can dispense with loading presses and stands. For a right-handed shooter, pivot 90 degrees to the left. Put the gun on half-cock. Hold the gun in your left hand. Load powder, filler, ball. Ram home…point the gun down range and press between the hands. Repeat for each chamber. ( I ought to make a video.)
FWIW, I’m using Speer shot capsules for revolver charges. Very compact. No, you don’t put the whole thing in, you pull the cap, pour the charge, put the cap back on.
The shoulder strap was the official way to carry the infantry cartridge box. But a lot of Skirmishers do use the belt alone. My own rig uses a shoulder strap…with a cap pouch on the strap.
Thanks for this comment! I meant to talk about shoulder strap cap boxes and forgot.
Perhaps in the union army but some Confederate cartridge boxes were made only for a waist belt and others for shoulder sling only. Yes, the English cap boxes sent over with the Enfield rifles were made to go on the cartridge box sling. Great info!
Gosh, so loading the paper cartridges takes longer? Bummer. Boy, those guys back then were really stupid to use them, then, but hey, if someone can ignore one aspect of history it should all be fair game--put a red dot on that musket! It's just about marksmanship, right? Another way to transport cartridges, of course, is to bundle them in historically correct cartridge packets. As for not allowing paper cartridges (except the two you showed), that is a horrid shame.
You can think of N-SSA competition kind of like Cowboy Action Shooting. It's a game with historical themes. It is not historical reenactment.
@@musketmatters2004 no, it's not a reenactment, but there's no reason to demand that everyone shoot historically correct weapons and have strict rules about it, then to ignore almost everything about how those weapons were used, and, in fact, to *ban* many aspects of their actual use. Nor does having people shoot correct ammunition and use correct loading techniques mean you're trying to do reenactment, nor eliminate the fun of shooting. I'm not knocking the NSSA--any shooting is better than not shooting--but it's such a shame to miss an opportunity to combine learning with fun.
@@Schlachtschule Again, it's a game with historical themes. The N-SSA tried having a Traditional Match at the Nationals for a few years but it was cancelled due to lack of participation. The Traditional Match required guns with as-issued sights, period US-style ammunition, and clothing and equipment. That said, there is nothing stopping you from shooting an original gun with original ammunition loads. You can even use US-style cartridges which were probably the most common of the war.
What team are you with?
I'll go with the "historical" paper cartridges. If I'm opting for 20th or 21st century technology, I won't be going with a muzzleloader or black powder.
I helped get the rules changed in the N-SSA to allow historical cartridges to be used throughout the N-SSA.
Great video, been looking for percussion sharp's, (pedersoli), 59 carbine and .45 cal. sporter, the .45 sharps has no sharps bullets other than the ringtail style. any plans for a mold in .45 in this style in the works?
Could you please confirm if that is indeed a 17/32 tube? Thank you. Great video.
Good video, but the 300dB throat clearing sort of blew my eardrums out
aah poor you
Sheesh, didn't you notice that you moved your hands out of view while performing some of the steps making the cartridge?
Unfortunately, I can't tell while filming, and didn't feel like trying to re-shoot the scene. I try to pay more attention on later videos. I even put a tape marker on the table so I know where my hands need to be.
@@musketmatters2004 that would be appreciated. The content was great, and I learned a huge amount so thanks for that. The company that sold the templates seems to have closed it's website, maybe someone will put the dimensions online somewhere for the DIY crowd. I'm actually having a Pritchard mold made in 450 and hopefully Al at NOE will get it done this year but he's really backed up (it costs $300 to get the cherry ground) and then the plan is to downsize the templates to fit the smaller caliber
@@bobjoatmon1993 The company that sells the templates is mine. It is still up at www.forth-armoury.com .
@@musketmatters2004 thanks, going there now. Update, ordered
GOOD ON YA SON....THERE ARE SOME NUMPTIES ACTUALLY FIRING GUNS....WELL; I NEVER....AND THEY WONDER WHY THE PEELERS CRACK DOWN ON YOU........MOST OF THIS CONTENT SHOULD NOT BE PERMITTED ON THE TUBE....@@musketmatters2004
I wonder if wood putty would work in the mold ?
I have not tried that. I have tried Sculpy clay, Bondo, and actual clay fired in a kiln. The fired clay plugs are rock-hard and just like the originals used in the final iteration of the Enfield cartridge.
@musketmatters2004 why did you switch to bondo? Was there a difference in performance/accuracy?
@@mulehead99 Over the years I tried Sculpy Putty and Bondo before I settled on fired clay. I don't think I ever fired any of the Sculpy plugs. The Bondo plugs worked fine. Clay plugs are rock hard and probably provide the best deformation of the lead without deforming themselves. Clay is what the British ultimately settled on, after Boxwood.
@musketmatters2004 glad to hear that. I bought the low fire clay and followed your video and did initial baking in oven for 40 minutes, then stuck a couple hundred of them in a soup can with handle into a charcoal fire for a couple of hours while casting the bullets. They came out great and seem pretty hard.
@@mulehead99 Yes, I believe the fired clay is the best choice.
My husband has a question about the cartridges. He recently started making them with the vellum paper but they are not combusting in the chamber. Is this normal? He followed your directions and his load is 60 grains of 2f GoX. Any suggestions?
It's not uncommon to find a husk of burned paper left in the chamber. This generally has no effect on chambering or shooting the next round. The most clean burning cartridges I made using drafting linen, which is a very very fine, dense weave linen that was used to make drafting paper until around the 1940s. It's not commonly available anymore. But the linen burned completely to bits. Some people use nitrated paper but I worry that those are *too* combustible and if they touch an ember they would immediately go off.
It is easier on the holster if you adjust the other end
Dang yankees never do give enough time for me to settle-in on those belt buckles.