Відео

I only do a full disassemble about once a year. Frankly, I think the wear and tear from disassembly and reassembly can be more harsh than from just using the firearm, especially if you are not careful and/or don't use good screwdrivers. It's a good idea to pull the nipples at least once a year and make sure you use anti-seize when you put them back in. This way you don't end up with stuck nipples. Dunk cleaning works great. The trick is getting it dry and that is where compressed air comes in. Do not get the idea to "bake" a wet revolver to try and dry it - this will result in extreme rusting.

As long as you thoroughly dry everything and follow up with a quality oil, rust is not an issue. I have no problems with rust on my guns.

@@musketmatters2004 I've never used water. Hops solvent only. High as well never had any rust issues.

As he said elsewhere, hot air increases oxidation, and he has rusted metal quickly by doing so. Of course that may not happen to everyone. Just doesn’t seem necessary.

@@profile2047 Get them dry and grease them up. CLP with Break Free slick slick.

I would not try it, myself. At one time I made and sold "chainmail" armour. I used to clean it and then hang it up on a pole and blow dry it with a leaf blower. Worked great. One time I had the idea to put it in the oven and bake it dry. It came out bright orange, coated with rust. As with most chemical reactions, heat accelerates oxidation.

Aerosol ballistol sprayed into the innards works well to prevent rust after hosing them out with water

Ballistol can be emulsionated with water, so when the latter evaporates the former will still be protecting those nooks and crannies without rust. Moose's milk is my Colt's best friend.

@@Bjornvetr I think Moose Milk is pretty universal at this point, and, if not, it should be.

@@Schlachtschule Of course! First I tried pouring it in an old sunscreen spray bottle I had laying around, after a thorough hot wash, but the spray button (actuator?) was so damn hard it got stuck every two squirts and I had to use pliers or a vise to get it out. Now I went for a fancy solution: a Floyd aftershave glass bottle, with an orange vaporizer, manual pump and such. 😂

Thanks!

Hi Keith! I'm in the Deep South Region.

S&S Firearms, Lodgewood mfg, Dixie gun works, North East Trade Company are some sources.

What region are you in...or state?

@@keitha.williams9561 The Upper Peninsula of Michigan. If we can make this happen, I believe we will be the furthest North unit in the N-SSA

Hello Gus, we have one member residing in Traverse City...I know there are a few skirmishers living in the upper lower...none in the UP that I know. There are Wisconsin groups (Western Region) also...do not know who will be farther north. Besides joining the N-SSA, check out ACWSA (American Civil War Shooting Association) we also shoot in Richmond, MI. The ACWSA also skirmishes in Wisconsin, it’s cheaper than the N-SSA overpriced dues.

Nope, we're still around. I'll look for your order now.

Glad your still in business, and glad I left this note :)

I have a Euroarms P1853 with a Whitacre barrel with progressive depth rifling. I also have a Pedersoli P1858 which is button rifled without progressive depth.

No. You shoot your six and then are done. No cylinder swapping.

I have only ever used Elmer's White Glue or Duco Cement. Charlie Hahn recommends Duco when using his cardboard tubes. I think nail polish would probably work fine. I think it is probably advantageous to use a glue that dries hard and brittle, so that it wants to flake off the bullet on firing. Any kind of rubbery glue might tend to cling to the bullet and effect accuracy. This is just a guess on my part. But I know that historically the British made alterations to their Enfield ammunition to make sure the bullet shed its paper patch because sometimes it clung to the bullet and affected accuracy.

Thanks for this comment! I meant to talk about shoulder strap cap boxes and forgot.

Perhaps in the union army but some Confederate cartridge boxes were made only for a waist belt and others for shoulder sling only. Yes, the English cap boxes sent over with the Enfield rifles were made to go on the cartridge box sling. Great info!

You can think of N-SSA competition kind of like Cowboy Action Shooting. It's a game with historical themes. It is not historical reenactment.

@@musketmatters2004 no, it's not a reenactment, but there's no reason to demand that everyone shoot historically correct weapons and have strict rules about it, then to ignore almost everything about how those weapons were used, and, in fact, to *ban* many aspects of their actual use. Nor does having people shoot correct ammunition and use correct loading techniques mean you're trying to do reenactment, nor eliminate the fun of shooting. I'm not knocking the NSSA--any shooting is better than not shooting--but it's such a shame to miss an opportunity to combine learning with fun.

@@Schlachtschule Again, it's a game with historical themes. The N-SSA tried having a Traditional Match at the Nationals for a few years but it was cancelled due to lack of participation. The Traditional Match required guns with as-issued sights, period US-style ammunition, and clothing and equipment. That said, there is nothing stopping you from shooting an original gun with original ammunition loads. You can even use US-style cartridges which were probably the most common of the war.

I helped get the rules changed in the N-SSA to allow historical cartridges to be used throughout the N-SSA.

aah poor you

Unfortunately, I can't tell while filming, and didn't feel like trying to re-shoot the scene. I try to pay more attention on later videos. I even put a tape marker on the table so I know where my hands need to be.

@@musketmatters2004 that would be appreciated. The content was great, and I learned a huge amount so thanks for that. The company that sold the templates seems to have closed it's website, maybe someone will put the dimensions online somewhere for the DIY crowd. I'm actually having a Pritchard mold made in 450 and hopefully Al at NOE will get it done this year but he's really backed up (it costs $300 to get the cherry ground) and then the plan is to downsize the templates to fit the smaller caliber

@@bobjoatmon1993 The company that sells the templates is mine. It is still up at www.forth-armoury.com .

@@musketmatters2004 thanks, going there now. Update, ordered

GOOD ON YA SON....THERE ARE SOME NUMPTIES ACTUALLY FIRING GUNS....WELL; I NEVER....AND THEY WONDER WHY THE PEELERS CRACK DOWN ON YOU........MOST OF THIS CONTENT SHOULD NOT BE PERMITTED ON THE TUBE....@@musketmatters2004

I have not tried that. I have tried Sculpy clay, Bondo, and actual clay fired in a kiln. The fired clay plugs are rock-hard and just like the originals used in the final iteration of the Enfield cartridge.

​@musketmatters2004 why did you switch to bondo? Was there a difference in performance/accuracy?

@@mulehead99 Over the years I tried Sculpy Putty and Bondo before I settled on fired clay. I don't think I ever fired any of the Sculpy plugs. The Bondo plugs worked fine. Clay plugs are rock hard and probably provide the best deformation of the lead without deforming themselves. Clay is what the British ultimately settled on, after Boxwood.

@musketmatters2004 glad to hear that. I bought the low fire clay and followed your video and did initial baking in oven for 40 minutes, then stuck a couple hundred of them in a soup can with handle into a charcoal fire for a couple of hours while casting the bullets. They came out great and seem pretty hard.

@@mulehead99 Yes, I believe the fired clay is the best choice.

It's not uncommon to find a husk of burned paper left in the chamber. This generally has no effect on chambering or shooting the next round. The most clean burning cartridges I made using drafting linen, which is a very very fine, dense weave linen that was used to make drafting paper until around the 1940s. It's not commonly available anymore. But the linen burned completely to bits. Some people use nitrated paper but I worry that those are *too* combustible and if they touch an ember they would immediately go off.