Much easier if you take measurements before you disassemble the head, and write down the values. Then you don't have to re-assemble, measure, disassemble again, etc. When you disassemble, take note of what the shims in each location are and do your math. You also have the opportunity to swap some shims around from what you have before you place your order and spend money. If you already have a given shim, then you can just move it to another position and you don't need to buy it.
The knowledge you guys provide the public is invaluable and I REALLY appreciate you all for taking the time to help educate the motorcyclist community.
It would be great to show the calculations as I think that is where some trip up. I use a spreadsheet for my BMW valve adjustments, but showing the proper hand calculations would be a great aid to your viewers.
I like your videos. They are straight fwd and to the point and informative, however in this vid, you didn't really show what you were measuring exactly, which I think would have been helpful to someone who's never done this before. Just my opinion. I think a new person will need to search other sources to be able to do this.
Very cool! I like your videos. And Partzilla has been my go-to place for Kawasaki OEM parts for the last two years. I would love to work on an R6 one day.
Thanks, Joe! Glad to hear you've been getting your OEM Kawi parts from Partzilla! Think you'll buy an R6? Would you trade in your Kawasaki or do you just want to *borrow* the R6? (Married to the Kawi, just dating the R6)
Very pleased with parts from partzilla. Have an 01 R1 just put valves in spec. Do you know what causes a bike to die wen crankcase breather is hooked up to airbox?
What do you do if the valve clearance was so tight no gauge fits under (theoretically 0 clearance) and the smallest shim size, according to yamaha, is already in place. Several of my exhaust valves are like this. This would require going to a shim size of 1.20mm but that is well below the spec'd min. I assume the spec min is based on the length of the valve stem and spring and depth of valve lifter...no?
I know this is an old video and probably not being monitored by the creator. I understand the concept of checking valve clearance, where I am struggling is the feel of the gauge when checking the gap. Should it slide through with very minimal pressure so no bite? Or should it be measured with a gauge that fits the gap but is snug and you can feel it bite on the top and bottom? Any advice is appreciated.
The feeler gauge should have some decent drag to it and not just slide in too freely. It shouldn’t have to be forced by any means but should have some resistance
Just like every other 2 stroke. There's a video of someone doing an old RG500 on here that would give you a good idea. I would imagine that the suter would be pretty much the same, minus the EFI system.
Hello John and congratulations for your videos,really really nice work ! I have a question for you that probably have allready been asked so forgive my repetation. The manual of my bike (hornet 600 '04) gives to intake valves a clearance between 0.13mm to 0.19mm. I always set them at the middle ( 0.16mm) but i am wondering (as i have heard some other opinions) ...is this correct ? The question is: are we running after the "middle" of clearance range or we give it a little to the up and ,if yes, how much must be this "up" ?
Partzilla is my go to for OEM parts , especially when I need a small part of a larger assembly that just can't be found anywhere else ! I wonder though about the advantages if this type of setup that includes a wear part ( the shim ) under a bucket . I suppose it allows for finer adjustment . However , I owned a 1979 Kawasaki KZ750B that had a single piece shim-in-pocket system that combined the bucket and shim into a single disc about 1" dia. by 1/4' thick that never needs adjustment . When I disassembled the engine due to the bottom end going out there was virtually no wear either at the valve ends , on the cam lobes or on the shims themselves . Maybe because of lower revving perhaps ?
This is useless! You can't see where he is sticking the feeler gauges and he doesn't show where the shims are going. He doesn't even show his measurements! All I got from this video was that I'm going to need a 8mm socket.
Should you aim to set the new gap at maximum spec value or minimum or middle? For example, EX should be 0.16mm to 0.23mm. When choosing pad, should you aim for 0.16mm or 0.23mm or 0.195mm? Great video btw. About to make an order from Partzilla to do this job!
Hello, congratulations for the video. I wanted to ask a question. I'm interested to know if the valve game generally tends to increase or decrease on a bike like the Yamaha R6. Thank you.
Had an r6. Bikes are notorious for running tight valves over time. High reving and just fucking shitty. 40k and my engine was toasted. And I did the maintenance early af
I took my 08 Yamaha fz6 to a shop for a valve adjustment. The exhaust valves are supposed to be within 0.23mm - 0.30mm, but I had two exhaust valves at 0.33. Instead of fixing them, the shop just put it back together and told me it'll be fine :/.
That's a small enough difference that you probably won't even notice it. However, if a shop is going to get paid to do work, then they should do the work. IMO.
Partzilla well he said he was adjusting the intake side, which he was, but.. he put the exhaust camshaft in there.. and more than likely they have different measurements
How are you identifying EX vs IN? Yamaha identifies the EX cam by adding an additional ridge on the camshaft. Here you go Eric... ua-cam.com/video/-NgknUm-1ec/v-deo.htmlm55s
OK we are on the same page now. What you are looking at is actually the cam gears, and believe it or not they are the exact same part number. each cam gear has both E and I stamped on them.
Having the engine removed makes for better tv but I think one of the biggest issues with most bike repairs is getting to it while in situ. All the videos I’ve seen on the R6 are with the engine removed. Wedginator does a good one although it is on a zx6r and may be easier to work on?
Much easier if you take measurements before you disassemble the head, and write down the values. Then you don't have to re-assemble, measure, disassemble again, etc. When you disassemble, take note of what the shims in each location are and do your math.
You also have the opportunity to swap some shims around from what you have before you place your order and spend money. If you already have a given shim, then you can just move it to another position and you don't need to buy it.
My man🤛
The knowledge you guys provide the public is invaluable and I REALLY appreciate you all for taking the time to help educate the motorcyclist community.
You guys are so great and thank you so much for your enlightened and education about sport bike motor.
Thanks for watching!
It would be great to show the calculations as I think that is where some trip up. I use a spreadsheet for my BMW valve adjustments, but showing the proper hand calculations would be a great aid to your viewers.
Great idea, LTVoyager! We'll see if we can get that shot. Thanks for the comment!
So what shim do you use if you can’t get a measurement because it’s to tight?
Is it back to factory shim or do you go thinner shim?
Clear and concise. A valuable series. Should be more likes in my opinion.
I wouldve liked for you to share the formula . Can you break it down,you add and subtract what to get the correct shim size great video btw
Im not ready !
I like your videos. They are straight fwd and to the point and informative, however in this vid, you didn't really show what you were measuring exactly, which I think would have been helpful to someone who's never done this before. Just my opinion. I think a new person will need to search other sources to be able to do this.
Great video 👍
Very cool! I like your videos. And Partzilla has been my go-to place for Kawasaki OEM parts for the last two years. I would love to work on an R6 one day.
Thanks, Joe! Glad to hear you've been getting your OEM Kawi parts from Partzilla! Think you'll buy an R6? Would you trade in your Kawasaki or do you just want to *borrow* the R6? (Married to the Kawi, just dating the R6)
Can't really afford an R6. My insurance cost would quintuple. Don't really need it anyway. I have a blast on my Ninja 250.
Very pleased with parts from partzilla. Have an 01 R1 just put valves in spec. Do you know what causes a bike to die wen crankcase breather is hooked up to airbox?
Hello John, kindly tell me what is the Valve Clearance for 2005 R6 5SL Yamaha
I confirmed in the clearance: intake 0.13-.20mm; Exhaust .23-.30
Is it possible to measure two cylinders beside each other at the same time? When the lobes are facing outwards and upwards?
Good
What do you do if the valve clearance was so tight no gauge fits under (theoretically 0 clearance) and the smallest shim size, according to yamaha, is already in place. Several of my exhaust valves are like this. This would require going to a shim size of 1.20mm but that is well below the spec'd min. I assume the spec min is based on the length of the valve stem and spring and depth of valve lifter...no?
Did you figure it out ?
Could you please do a pc40 cbr600rr?
I know this is an old video and probably not being monitored by the creator. I understand the concept of checking valve clearance, where I am struggling is the feel of the gauge when checking the gap. Should it slide through with very minimal pressure so no bite? Or should it be measured with a gauge that fits the gap but is snug and you can feel it bite on the top and bottom? Any advice is appreciated.
The feeler gauge should have some decent drag to it and not just slide in too freely. It shouldn’t have to be forced by any means but should have some resistance
Nice
Hello partzilla, i really appreciate the way you are. Will you please open your branch in our country here in Nigeria?
We would love to, however, Nigeria is on our exception list due to federal regulations.
Sir can you make a video of MMX SUTER 500 engine rebuild please sir
Just like every other 2 stroke. There's a video of someone doing an old RG500 on here that would give you a good idea. I would imagine that the suter would be pretty much the same, minus the EFI system.
Are you measuring while the valve is engaged or when its at rest i guess you could say ?
At rest on the base circle
Hello John and congratulations for your videos,really really nice work !
I have a question for you that probably have allready been asked so forgive my repetation.
The manual of my bike (hornet 600 '04) gives to intake valves a clearance between 0.13mm to 0.19mm.
I always set them at the middle ( 0.16mm) but i am wondering (as i have heard some other opinions) ...is this correct ? The question is: are we running after the "middle" of clearance range or we give it a little to the up and ,if yes, how much must be this "up" ?
Middle range is a good kick off.
@@PartzillaParts Thank you !
Partzilla is my go to for OEM parts , especially when I need a small part of a larger assembly that just can't be found anywhere else ! I wonder though about the advantages if this type of setup that includes a wear part ( the shim ) under a bucket . I suppose it allows for finer adjustment . However , I owned a 1979 Kawasaki KZ750B that had a single piece shim-in-pocket system that combined the bucket and shim into a single disc about 1" dia. by 1/4' thick that never needs adjustment . When I disassembled the engine due to the bottom end going out there was virtually no wear either at the valve ends , on the cam lobes or on the shims themselves . Maybe because of lower revving perhaps ?
This is useless! You can't see where he is sticking the feeler gauges and he doesn't show where the shims are going. He doesn't even show his measurements! All I got from this video was that I'm going to need a 8mm socket.
Fr man 😭 I was like okay here we go I’m ready and then okay next video 🤦🏻♂️😆
@@Michael-iu1gv I like this one and part 2 of it the most. Good luck.
ua-cam.com/video/dL3My_Iw8Wc/v-deo.html
Should you aim to set the new gap at maximum spec value or minimum or middle? For example, EX should be 0.16mm to 0.23mm. When choosing pad, should you aim for 0.16mm or 0.23mm or 0.195mm? Great video btw. About to make an order from Partzilla to do this job!
Within range is all that matters, generally closer to .2 or .21mm
Don't strip out the cam cap bolts! AMHIK start them by hand!
Hello, congratulations for the video. I wanted to ask a question. I'm interested to know if the valve game generally tends to increase or decrease on a bike like the Yamaha R6. Thank you.
It could increase or decrease there isn't a way to know. That's why we set valve at mid-range
Had an r6. Bikes are notorious for running tight valves over time. High reving and just fucking shitty. 40k and my engine was toasted. And I did the maintenance early af
@@porglife4104 did you mainly track the bike?
@@Ibo0138 never nope
Is it okay for exhaust valves to be on the loose side?
If you want it to run poorly, that's fine. Valves shouldn't be "loose."
I took my 08 Yamaha fz6 to a shop for a valve adjustment. The exhaust valves are supposed to be within 0.23mm - 0.30mm, but I had two exhaust valves at 0.33. Instead of fixing them, the shop just put it back together and told me it'll be fine :/.
That's a small enough difference that you probably won't even notice it. However, if a shop is going to get paid to do work, then they should do the work. IMO.
I hope he knows he did the exhaust cam on the intake side...
Why do you say that Eric?
Partzilla well he said he was adjusting the intake side, which he was, but.. he put the exhaust camshaft in there.. and more than likely they have different measurements
How are you identifying EX vs IN? Yamaha identifies the EX cam by adding an additional ridge on the camshaft.
Here you go Eric... ua-cam.com/video/-NgknUm-1ec/v-deo.htmlm55s
Partzilla there is an E on the exhaust cam and an I on the intake, clearly shown in the video when he rotatates the cam.
OK we are on the same page now. What you are looking at is actually the cam gears, and believe it or not they are the exact same part number. each cam gear has both E and I stamped on them.
the only way this video could have been more useless is if he had done it in the dark
I don't own a r6, but I'm guessing u have to remove the engine to do this job?? Also is this engine an interference engine?
No, you don't have to remove the engine. Yes, it is classified as an interference engine.
Having the engine removed makes for better tv but I think one of the biggest issues with most bike repairs is getting to it while in situ. All the videos I’ve seen on the R6 are with the engine removed. Wedginator does a good one although it is on a zx6r and may be easier to work on?