Adjusting Yamaha FZ6 Valve Lash - How to
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- Опубліковано 26 лют 2021
- In this video I do an in depth look into how the valve lash (clearance) is adjusted on a 2007 Yamaha FZ6. This service should be done every 40,000 km's. The hardest part of this service is correctly reinstalling the timing chain but with enough patience I believe you can do it.
Torque specs:
camshaft cap bolts: 7.2 ft lbs
timing chain tensioner bolt (x2): 8.7 ft lbs
timing chain tensioner cap bolt (x1): 5.0 ft lbs
Pick up rotor cover bolts - side cover (x7): 8.7 ft lbs
Pick up rotor cover bolt M8 (x1): 11 ft lbs
throttle body joint to itb's from head (x4) 3mm allen: 2.2 ft lbs
Valve cover bolts (x6): 8.7 ft lbs
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Your attention to detail for quality of life tips is what makes this channel. People often instruct how to work on projects as a whole, such as bolt locations, etc.
You go the extra mile and explain what challenges you faced, how you overcame them, and what tips help prevent others from coming across those challenges. Such as how to angle a tool, a tricky clip, and how to shimmy a part out of a tight location. It's these details that made me subscribe!
Keep up the good work! So far you're the ONLY channel with this level of detail on the Yamaha FZ6
Wow! Thanks for you very kind comments. Thank you!
@@Calvinm Hi Calvin, in the manual it's says to put molybdenum oil on the shim. Do you need to or can you just put regular oil on it?
Just picked up an 09 fz6 and started watching your videos. With the detail you go into I have high confidence with all of the basic maintenance.
An Allen head trick: get Allen sockets and use extentions and a wrench.
Right!
Not sure when I'll be ready to take on this task. Looks complicated, such valuable knowledge!
Great walk through! I know making these videos takes way more time than the job its self and I thank you for you time and effort.
You're very welcome!
👑 you dropped this, king.
💛
OMG so complicated. Strongly doubt I'll ever take this on but I'll subscribe (and thumbs up) just for the effort you took. Thank you for your contribution. I'm way overdue for a valve clearance check but I'll chance it, only ride occasionally for fun. Idle seems normal. Bike is worth < $3500 and dealer wants $1000 for this.
$1000 for valve clearance checks?! Just Wow! That is really overpriced job.
@@DavilaSombre I mean for 5 hours average it's about right tbh basically the whole top end is getting taken off and then have to do the shims etc and having to work on a almost 20 year old bike, it's about the right price.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. This the only video which explains in detail what to do. Im checking valves in r6 right now and i checked cylinder 1, wanted to check 2 but in this shit manual says turn counterclockwise. I did it, the engine did strange noise like old rusty door and couldnt even fit the feeler gauge........ so i came on yt, found nothing and after 1 hour watching videos- here comes my savior!!!!!
You’re very welcome! That silly manual and it’s wrong direction has probably left a few people scratching their heads. Good luck with the valve job 👍
Incredible video!
Thankfully don't have to do this yet. But when I do this will help me a lot.
Appreciate the fz6 content. Keep it up
If it ain't broke...
Before you start messing around with your bike's delicate bits, ask yourself if the bike still behaves as it did when new. If it's not having any problems, my advice is to just leave it alone. I have 42,000 miles on my 06 FZ6. I have never done this and the bike is still in like-new condition. Let your bike warm up before revving the nuts off of it. Keep the revs in check as you approach your destination so that the engine cools down. Replace fluids and filters as needed. Check if your brake pads still have meat on them. That's it. That's my entire maintenance schedule. I'd be more concerned about the damage you could do from unnecessarily opening up your engine. Just my two cents.
YES!!! I've been waiting for this video forever! I'm glad you filmed this. I wish I could smash that like button 1000 times!
When I did this job it took me 2 weekends to get everything done and put back together. For the throttle body assembly I purchased a set of allen wrenches that fit on the end of a ratchet and used a long extension to get to the 3mm allen bolts. That worked out beautifully. I also printed out a little valve shim sheet that makes it easy to keep track of all the measurements. It's for a Kawasaki so the valve specs don't match up for the fz6 so you have to cross those out so they won't confuse you. When I did my intake valves I did them on the tighter side of the spec, because I figured having it 0.05mm more means the valves would open a teeny tiny hair more which might improve the amount of air you can get in, and it means It'll be a longer time before the clearance goes out of spec again. When I did the job I bought a hotcams shim kit that has any size you could possibly want, but I bought 2 sets because they only give you 3 shims per size and having the 2 sets actually came in handy because I needed to use 5 shims that were all the same size.
i.imgur.com/VYRQBr8.png
An allen on an extension would be good way of getting those pesky three mm throttle body bolts, good idea! Nice chart for the valve specs too, that would be very handy! I'm glad I could make this video for you and thanks for pitching the idea!
It's more common for valve clearances to tighten with use, not to loosen, so if anything you should leave the gaps on the loose side. This is because the main area of wear is the valve seat and the sealing ring of the valve itself, which means the valve "pockets" into the head, tightening the clearance between the valve stem and the cam lobe or rocker arm pad. Normally the gap will only loosen if the cam lobe or the camshaft bearings wear out.
have a like from me dude for keeping info coming on these awesome fz6,s
Me and my noble steed, love your content. Saludos from BA Argentina man!
Thank you! 😁
Thank you! Good informative video, keep up the great work 😊👍
Let's go buddy! Thanks for help🤯
Thanks for the info
thanks for this video man, very helpful
You’re welcome!
Great video.
This is precisely why I forego anything but screw/locknut valves.
This is way too expensive to pay others to do.
You have to do it every 40ths km, so, in the long run, it is not that expensive actually.
thank you!
GREAT JOB...it is going to take some working up to deal with that complexity
Thx men
cool stuff
Thanks Bro.
Do as many service and maintenance video's as you can.Also a video with some thoughts and reliability issues with the bike would be nice too. Thanks man!!
Will do! Thanks man 👍
Mine has a 105k miles on it. I'd say that's generally reliable.
Great video though mate. One of the best Fazer clips I've seen
Wish I had made some myself
Had my 08 naked since 09 and she has 232000km so far. Given me no trouble at all
Wow that’s a lot of mileage. Good to know the FZ6 can go the extra mile!
Did you really do 232000 km on it?? With one engine? Im asking cause im nervous about buying on used with 115.000 km on it.
Maybe you can upload a picture?
Very valuable info. Thank you!
Would you mind if I asked you to make a video on how to dismount the shock absorber (rear suspension)...👍
Thanks! Ya I can look into the rear shock.
Hello to you. Thanks for the videos. I tried to move the teeth wheel where he produced and stuck?
Time 10:30
Great video, vary clear, I would have definitely just shoved a 8 in there as usual, :)
Hey Calvin,
awesome job. Not owning a FZ6 but an XJ6N 2015 which seems to have the engine in it. Mad respect for doing that on your own, I'm too scared to do those kind of deep surgeries in case I forget some bolts, tubes or plugs on the reassembly.
One question: What are those two tubes coming from the radiator to the engine at 4:46? What are the doing? I realized, that on my XJ6 the radiator in total has (I think) 6 tubes going into it. Why is that? My Yamaha WR125x only has 2 (which makes sense to me).
Again, thanks for your video. Greets from Germany.
You are right on when you said you thought that might be coolant temp sensor. But isn't lash supposed to be checked with the valves open? I don't have the service manual handy but I'm working on the 600 Yzf, maybe there are a few different procedures for your engine...?...
My 2008,fz6 S2,may I know how to change temperature display from F to C ? Thz so much
I think this ones pretty easy, but i forgot how to 😅
Hi, great video! What manual are you referring to? Is this the haynes manual? Where can I find one? I have a 2009 fz6r
I found the factory service manual online. Here's a link to it below. I think the engine in the FZ6R is slightly different than the FZ6 so you might want to find a manual specific to the FZ6R
link: www.fazerclub.ru/manuals/FZ6/Yamaha_FZ6_2007_ALL_VERSIONS_Service_Manual.pdf
Is this the same for s yamaha xj6 diversion f 2013?many thanks
I think the 2013 XJ6 engine is slightly different. I’m not sure if the valve lash and torque specs are the same but I’d imagine they would be very close if different at all. Hopefully this video is similar enough for you to follow.
Holy cow, this is a substantial job indeed! What are the consequences of not doing this adjustment? My bike is overdue unfortunately, this is the first I'm hearing of this needing to be done. I'm at 31k miles...
Consequences could be accelerating the wear on your cam lobes by having to much gap or possibly burning a valve because the gap is too small and isn’t allowing the valve to seat fully between actuations leading the valve to run hotter than normal. Basically if the valve doesn’t spend enough time pressed firmly against the head between power strokes it won’t dissipate the heat to the cylinder head (valve lash too tight). Wear on cam lobes is caused by the excess “slapping” of cam lobe against valve spring bucket. You would likely hear a valve who’s gap is to large because it would tick more loudly than normal. A tight valve wouldn’t really make any noise to indicate it’s issue. When I did my bike the first time about 1/3 of them were out of spec but only by one or two thousands of an inch. Best of luck!
@@Calvinm thank you so much for the explanation! I'm gonna have to think about getting in to adjusting that, pretty big job.
I'm a bit overdue on my FZ6 (~34k miles). This is quite a large job. What's the harm if they're on the edge of needing adjustment, or slightly beyond? I figure new spark plugs and balancing the 4 ITB's would be as impactful in the engine's health and performance. I've also seen a majority of folks reporting good specs on their first check at 24k miles
Shimmed valves tend to tighten with wear. If the valve clearances are too tight then it will be a pain to start, run poorly, and if left too long burn out a valve
Greetings from Croatia, the videos are great and help you a lot, I have one question, and maybe I already asked you hahahaha, why do you hear a loud clatter at the phaser, that is, a blow when I change gears. whether it's up to the basket or the gears themselves have air, the engine has covered 45,000km. Thanks in advance and sorry on gooogle translate.
The Yamaha FZ6 is known to be a fairing clunky bike, so it might be a normal noise. My transmission isn't very smooth between first and second gear shifts if that's what you mean, I think that is normal for the bike though. If you have a noise coming from rider's right when clutched out, in neutral when stopped, that is typical. The clutch plates clatter in a noisy way when not engaged. If you have not done a valve lash adjustment by 45,000 km's I would recommend doing one, it might quieten down your engine a little if some of the valves are out of spec. Hope that helps!
@@Calvinm Thank you very much
Did you replace the valve cover gasket ?
Nope, didn’t leak either.
Hi.
You didnt actually tell us how to adjust it if it is to big or to small.
All you did was check everything.
Could you please make another video where you actually adjust the clearances.. thanks
You adjust the clearance by removing the shim and bucket under the cam lobe then change the shim size. Shims are sized in mm. You can reduce clearance to by increasing shim size and increase clearance by reducing shim size. You can buy a pack of shims instead of ordering exact shim sizes from Yamaha.
I dont understand why did you remove the throttle boddies, they doesnt get on the way, you just need to take out the spark plugs and AIR Valves and that's it!
Mate you need some hex tbars
Indeed I do.
Great video, I'm going to have to check my clearances and this is so much better than trying to look at still pictures in a manual!
Can I ask, when you reassembled the engine, did you replace the cylinder head gasket or just re-use the old one?
I did reuse the valve cover gasket but I would recommend replacing the timing cover gasket. Thanks for the comment! 👍
Was the pickup rotor that clean when you took the cover off?
Yep! I didn’t clean it off camera
@@Calvinm so my engine was filled with sludge, and it sounds like this ua-cam.com/video/l7D5PXZjZ8M/v-deo.html, do you think it’s the valse lash causing the noise?
i have done this on my FZ6R and i can say that once you have made your adjustment then you need to re-test all the valves because it would suck if the adjustment are wrong and ride for another’s 15’000 miles ask me how I know.lol
Like the the old saying goes, measure twice cut one... ha. Sorry to hear that happened.
Ur a legend dude keep the amazing work up !!! So our fz6s will ride till some douche pickup driver decides to instantly take the left lane without any signals...
Thank you!! Stay safe out there and enjoy the FZ6 👍
And I always place a rag over the top of my butterflies
I've heard of people accidentally dropping screws washers or hose clamps down them... Very bad news
What's the milage on it?
I think it had 62,000 km’s at the time of filming.
What made you do this job on this bike?
Was it showing any signs of mechanical failure?
I recently bought a 2004 FZ6 with 27K miles, and it runs like a champ.
How would I know if something like this needs done?
Also I'd definitely be doing it myself, because God only knows how much a bike mechanic will want, they already charge 3X more than car mechanics around NYC.
Thanks for the video.
I did this job just to film it for you guys. I did this job in the past though when my bike was around 35,000km’s but the manual recommends doing a valve lash adjustment every 40k km’s (24k miles). If your bike is making a significant amount of clatter/noise from the valve train it is possible that the valve lash is out of spec. It can be hard to know if your bike is making more noise than it should so it’s best to open it up after 40k km’s (24k miles) and measure the clearance. Best of luck!
What with TBS ? thanks :)
The TPS, which is what I think you mean, is the throttle position sensor.
@@Calvinm I was thinking about Throttle Body Sync, but I can not find how often do Yamaha recommend to do that, every inspection or what mileage. And we need "vacuum gauge" which is expensive. :)
@@Calvinm ua-cam.com/video/HXwZSYLVb-4/v-deo.html
You and mecânico ?
In my free time ;)
it`s official .. if i ever deside to get this bike .. i will be taking it in to the mech for valve work haha .. daaamn that`s alot of shit
I'm sure you're tarting this up a bit. Looks like a pig-of-a-job.