It only “works” if you show a Boroscope view of the intake valves… Some videos show that these things may help but don’t really “work” As in, it can be a bit of a preventative… but once there is carbon, it won’t get rid of it. Also the smoke after using Seafoam isn’t anything to do with carbon. It’s the solution that’s used, someone proved this on a new engine and the other products such as CRC, Liquimoly etc don’t have any smoke.
yeah this is what i was learning too. enough carbon builds up and your only option is to either blast it with something or other means of deep cleeaning that are expensive (or just buy new valves).
@@colinhare6963 ..."just buy new valves" ...walnut blasting is much cheaper, I don't think anyone would buy new valves just because of carbon deposits.
They knew it when they implemented it. It wasn't some accidental discovery. The truth is they knew it would happen and knew how to combat it on the vehicles that were going to be under their care. Years later second hand buyers have found out. That's all.
If you drive on the highway / freeway get off of the highway / freeway & back on, repeat. You want to avoid a consistent throttle when treating with SeaFoam.
I want to do this but im afraid of ruining my catalytic converter! I think i would just removed the intake and have the valves nut blasted!!! Still great video!!
Yes the carbon that breaks off can clog the converter but they also make a converter cleaner also. CRC who I trust over seafoam makes one that you spray into the throttle body just don't spray directly on the MAP sensor. You can Google up CRC fuel system and turbo cleaner.
So you're telling me that you can litterally disconnect the hose from the PCV valve and spray dirrectly into that hose on the TDI engine and that should do the trick? I got the GDI cleaner by LUCAS and I wanna do this, but I don't wanna have to dissasseble a bunch of stuff and I dont have much tool at home :/
Is there an advantage to spraying this directly into the intake manifold compared to into the fresh-air intake pipe past the MAP sensor? I'm planning to do this with the CRC cleaner (same idea), and the instructions with that specify to do the latter. I feel like disconnecting that PCV hose without plugging it up on the PCV side might lead to pressure problems that in turn could lead to blowing the rear main seal -- a common problem when the PCV system develops leaks all by itself.
Thanks!! I’m in Wrentham! Was just at Thompson Speedway yesterday watching the drift event. I think we’re doing a private track day there this Thursday and I couldn’t be more excited. Check out MassBMW on Facebook, it’s the club I go driving with 👍🏼
I did. It certainly helped keep the carbon at bay, but I did eventually carbon clean at 150k miles or so. Still, that’s a lot better than some other examples, having to clean at 70-80k miles.
@@zzman5306 catch can won't do any good in this case. There's a period in the 4 stroke cycle called overlap, that's when the intake valve is open at the same time as the exhaust valve at the end of the exhaust cycle. That's where the carbon comes from, it's exhaust gases passing back into the intake & leaving deposits behind.
Any ideas if you’ve had two engine misfires (1 year apart) from carbon buildup? 2013 pilot and the cost for cleaning is about the value of the car. I’m worried I’d damage the catalytic converter as you mentioned but would hate to call it quits on her so soon & trade her in.
Shorter trips tend to cause carbon to build up faster... learn how to clean carbon yourself it's not super hard job just time consuming to take the intake manifold off.
Question?? This might be a dumb ? I'm a 2013 KIA owner with GDI. I had no clue why I was getting such terrible gas mileage, (16 city/22 highway) The amount of money I have wasted is insane. I recall one misfire. Didn't know what it was till now. It really seems to run well fortunately. I'm at 90K miles now, owned it since 11K, and never even knew to clean the intake valves. It's too late to try this method of removal (with SeaFoam) due to likely destroying the catalytic converter. But...what if I temporarily open the exhaust bypassing the catalytic converter just to do this, one time?? Then next time I do this (every 10k miles) it shouldn't be an issue running the carbon through it. Does this sound logical? Anyone??
Don’t worry, that’s not a dumb question! Is it turbocharged? Either way, I don’t think that would be the best option. You’d run into a mess with your O2 sensors, and you may still damage your piston rings. On top of that, the seafoam won’t completely get rid of the carbon on your valves- it’s more of a preventative measure. I think your best bet would be walnut blasting your intake valves, either on your own, or take it to a shop to get it done. Not sure how knowledgeable you are when it comes to mechanics, but it might just be worth taking it to a shop to get the valves carbon cleaned. Good luck!
@NotSoHandyCarGuy I didn't expect an answer so quick. THANKS! Yeah I kinda knew when i asked it wasn't a solution. No. it's not turbo charged. I bought it from a dealer @ 1 yr old & 11K. I got bad mileage right away and back then it was correctable with SeaFoam. If I knew. But I didn't know, and the dealer sure wasn't going to do it, or tell me about it. KIA dealership too. They knew. 🤬 I will ask my mechanic if he can walnut blast the valves. I asked him at least twice about the bad mileage and he didn't know, so he might not be the right guy for this. Thanks again!
So spraying a cheap oil mixture in your intake is supposed to get rid of the oil build and breakdown of previous cheap oil. Sounds logical to me. Many of these products contain large amounts of oil, thus all burning oil and smoke which is leading to CAT damage. Doung these treatments dumps huge amount of hard abrasive soot in the oil, in the cylinder, and remainder of the engine. Oil analysis proves this. Use a 100% engineered synthetic oil will perfirm better, reduce oil oxidation and protect better. Castrol and just about every other full synthetic is just fini oil with an added hydrogen molecule so they can call it synthetic when it isnt. Follow the science, not oil company tricks and deception.
In the cat - so don't let the deposits build up too much at one time when using deposit cleaners. Ideal method is to pull the intake and clean from there.
Buy a car with pot injection our 2017 Suzuki Baleno has port injection or buy a vehicle with a caburator well my 1997 Toyota Hilux has a carburator oops you don't get Suzuki's in the USA but we get them in Australia and carburatored utes up until 1997 so no carbon issues so no problems
And it is safer . I agree especially if you don’t know how much carbon has build inside . There is a chance of a large chunk breaking off and damaging something internally like sticking piston rings then you can kiss your engine goodbye .
Well it’s tough when GDI’s are as common as they are. And a lot of people don’t know what they’re buying until afterwards. So hopefully they can see this video and will help them. Buying VW isn’t a dealbreaker for me, because I know how to fix my things, and actually enjoy it.
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy People look at the star studs on a vw and automatically assume its more difficult, most battle are won and lost in the mind. VW LIFE soCal lol
Where is your data? No before and after photos so how do you know your valves are cleaner than before using the Seafoam?
It only “works” if you show a Boroscope view of the intake valves…
Some videos show that these things may help but don’t really “work”
As in, it can be a bit of a preventative… but once there is carbon, it won’t get rid of it.
Also the smoke after using Seafoam isn’t anything to do with carbon. It’s the solution that’s used, someone proved this on a new engine and the other products such as CRC, Liquimoly etc don’t have any smoke.
yeah this is what i was learning too. enough carbon builds up and your only option is to either blast it with something or other means of deep cleeaning that are expensive (or just buy new valves).
@@colinhare6963 or carb cleaner, drill and zipties. And lot of paper towels
@@colinhare6963 ..."just buy new valves" ...walnut blasting is much cheaper, I don't think anyone would buy new valves just because of carbon deposits.
No before and after photographs.
I do not believe you, as you have absolutely no proof is any results, what so ever, pure mythology.
It would nice to see before and after pictures of the valves
They knew it when they implemented it. It wasn't some accidental discovery. The truth is they knew it would happen and knew how to combat it on the vehicles that were going to be under their care. Years later second hand buyers have found out. That's all.
If you drive on the highway / freeway get off of the highway / freeway & back on, repeat. You want to avoid a consistent throttle when treating with SeaFoam.
Does the loose carbon deposits go past the cats and out the exhaust?
Hey from Rhode Island! More companies need to use dual injection like ford and Toyota does in some of their engines. Best of high worlds.
I added an oil catch can on my PCV hose to help even more.
same but I went with an Air Oil Seperator instead of just an oil catch can. It does so much more
@@infernomaster2702yepper, I put a catch can/separator on my Lexus 80,000 miles ago, potential problem solved. 👍
@@infernomaster2702 how does that work?
Catchcans dont work either !
A lot of manufacturers are going to dual injection? I am only aware of two, Ford and Toyota. Are there others?
I want to do this but im afraid of ruining my catalytic converter! I think i would just removed the intake and have the valves nut blasted!!! Still great video!!
Yes the carbon that breaks off can clog the converter but they also make a converter cleaner also. CRC who I trust over seafoam makes one that you spray into the throttle body just don't spray directly on the MAP sensor. You can Google up CRC fuel system and turbo cleaner.
Have you check your Valves with a borescope to make sure its Clean?
Does this actually work??? Proof is in the pudding. A borescope video would show definitively whether it does or doesn't.
I live in SoCal. If I do this an attempt to drive around with smoke billowing out, the CHP will hand me a ticket from hell, and maybe impound my car.
Hahahahaha
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy Do it at night LOL
land of freedom my ass XD
So you're telling me that you can litterally disconnect the hose from the PCV valve and spray dirrectly into that hose on the TDI engine and that should do the trick? I got the GDI cleaner by LUCAS and I wanna do this, but I don't wanna have to dissasseble a bunch of stuff and I dont have much tool at home :/
Is there an advantage to spraying this directly into the intake manifold compared to into the fresh-air intake pipe past the MAP sensor?
I'm planning to do this with the CRC cleaner (same idea), and the instructions with that specify to do the latter.
I feel like disconnecting that PCV hose without plugging it up on the PCV side might lead to pressure problems that in turn could lead to blowing the rear main seal -- a common problem when the PCV system develops leaks all by itself.
Great video. I am picking up a 2011 GTI next week. I am looking forward to modding and autocrossing it. Where in Mass are you? I'm in Western mass.
Thanks!! I’m in Wrentham! Was just at Thompson Speedway yesterday watching the drift event. I think we’re doing a private track day there this Thursday and I couldn’t be more excited. Check out MassBMW on Facebook, it’s the club I go driving with 👍🏼
I don't have that hose you used on my vehicle I don't believe, it's a 2018 GMC Terrain with the 2.0 LTG Turbo engine
Have you looked at the valves to check for the efectiveness?
I did. It certainly helped keep the carbon at bay, but I did eventually carbon clean at 150k miles or so. Still, that’s a lot better than some other examples, having to clean at 70-80k miles.
cheers for the reply@@NotSoHandyCarGuy just cleaned mine @70k and it was pretty bad. It's a horrible job, very time consuming.
What about a catch can?
Might doing this set off the check engine light?
@@zzman5306 catch can won't do any good in this case. There's a period in the 4 stroke cycle called overlap, that's when the intake valve is open at the same time as the exhaust valve at the end of the exhaust cycle. That's where the carbon comes from, it's exhaust gases passing back into the intake & leaving deposits behind.
Any ideas if you’ve had two engine misfires (1 year apart) from carbon buildup? 2013 pilot and the cost for cleaning is about the value of the car. I’m worried I’d damage the catalytic converter as you mentioned but would hate to call it quits on her so soon & trade her in.
Shorter trips tend to cause carbon to build up faster... learn how to clean carbon yourself it's not super hard job just time consuming to take the intake manifold off.
La mia golf gti mk7 del 2016 ha anche l'iniezione a porta inseme a quella diretta,sulla 7,5 l'hanno tolta...😮
Thank you for this my friend!!!
Do a before and after
What mileage did you start using sea foam? Currently at 92k on my mk6
I first used it probably around your mileage. Do you have an aftermarket down pipe?
Without evidence of cleaner valves/intake tract this is all just speculation.
Question?? This might be a dumb ? I'm a 2013 KIA owner with GDI. I had no clue why I was getting such terrible gas mileage, (16 city/22 highway) The amount of money I have wasted is insane. I recall one misfire. Didn't know what it was till now. It really seems to run well fortunately. I'm at 90K miles now, owned it since 11K, and never even knew to clean the intake valves. It's too late to try this method of removal (with SeaFoam) due to likely destroying the catalytic converter. But...what if I temporarily open the exhaust bypassing the catalytic converter just to do this, one time?? Then next time I do this (every 10k miles) it shouldn't be an issue running the carbon through it. Does this sound logical? Anyone??
Don’t worry, that’s not a dumb question! Is it turbocharged? Either way, I don’t think that would be the best option. You’d run into a mess with your O2 sensors, and you may still damage your piston rings. On top of that, the seafoam won’t completely get rid of the carbon on your valves- it’s more of a preventative measure. I think your best bet would be walnut blasting your intake valves, either on your own, or take it to a shop to get it done. Not sure how knowledgeable you are when it comes to mechanics, but it might just be worth taking it to a shop to get the valves carbon cleaned. Good luck!
@NotSoHandyCarGuy I didn't expect an answer so quick. THANKS! Yeah I kinda knew when i asked it wasn't a solution. No. it's not turbo charged. I bought it from a dealer @ 1 yr old & 11K. I got bad mileage right away and back then it was correctable with SeaFoam. If I knew. But I didn't know, and the dealer sure wasn't going to do it, or tell me about it. KIA dealership too. They knew. 🤬 I will ask my mechanic if he can walnut blast the valves. I asked him at least twice about the bad mileage and he didn't know, so he might not be the right guy for this. Thanks again!
So spraying a cheap oil mixture in your intake is supposed to get rid of the oil build and breakdown of previous cheap oil. Sounds logical to me. Many of these products contain large amounts of oil, thus all burning oil and smoke which is leading to CAT damage. Doung these treatments dumps huge amount of hard abrasive soot in the oil, in the cylinder, and remainder of the engine. Oil analysis proves this. Use a 100% engineered synthetic oil will perfirm better, reduce oil oxidation and protect better. Castrol and just about every other full synthetic is just fini oil with an added hydrogen molecule so they can call it synthetic when it isnt. Follow the science, not oil company tricks and deception.
Install a oil catch can
does not work!
Where does the loose carbon go?
In the cat - so don't let the deposits build up too much at one time when using deposit cleaners. Ideal method is to pull the intake and clean from there.
@@dq7143 these type of deposit cleaners dont get the carbon off.......... it is BS !
So no worries about your CAT!
Buy a car with pot injection our 2017 Suzuki Baleno has port injection or buy a vehicle with a caburator well my 1997 Toyota Hilux has a carburator oops you don't get Suzuki's in the USA but we get them in Australia and carburatored utes up until 1997 so no carbon issues so no problems
The assumption is crazy show us the inside of those ports 😂
Doesn't really work
Doesn't work
At last a good video !!!
Whats good about it ? its just an advertising video !
Carbon gets to cat converter. $3k. GDI engine sucks !
And just another BS fluid ;-) the only thing that realy works is cleaning them good by taking off the intake !
And it is safer . I agree especially if you don’t know how much carbon has build inside . There is a chance of a large chunk breaking off and damaging something internally like sticking piston rings then you can kiss your engine goodbye .
Another tip don't buy a direct injection car!!!
More and. More are.
Just don't buy a GDI car?! WTF! And don't buy a VW? Just saying! Haha
Well it’s tough when GDI’s are as common as they are. And a lot of people don’t know what they’re buying until afterwards. So hopefully they can see this video and will help them.
Buying VW isn’t a dealbreaker for me, because I know how to fix my things, and actually enjoy it.
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy People look at the star studs on a vw and automatically assume its more difficult, most battle are won and lost in the mind. VW LIFE soCal lol
Just get a Tesla
Excellent point they are very affordable these days 😂
You go first :)
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy We've had -38°C -36°F in December. How far do you get with a Tesla in that cold and park it outside ? :)
Or buy a Toyota that uses D4S
A Terdsla … Nope