Can you Really Remove Carbon for $29?
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- Опубліковано 4 чер 2024
- Carbon build-up is an issue on direct injection engines. There is a lot of speculation online that talks about methods that work to fix or prevent carbon build-up. We actually do a real-world test using an intake manifold service to compare before and after results. We also cover alternative methods and offer a perspective on how viable these are as solutions.
Links Talked about in this video
Berryman Intake Valve Cleaner Used in this Video
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Carbon Build up on Direct Injection Engine (Intake Valves) AKA GDI Gasoline Direct Inection
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Don't Overpay for a MK7 Waterpump and How to do it Yourself
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How Much Carbon Build Up at 10,000 Miles?? ~ 2019 Golf R
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Racingline Catch Can DIY | MQB MK7.5 GTI
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0:00 Introduction to Carbon Build Up
0:46 Port Injection V.S. Direct Injection
2:44 Why Carbon Build Up Happens
4:45 Common Preventives for Carbon
5:14 Italian Tune-ups
6:21 Intake Manifold Services
8:30 Testing an Intake Manifold Service
10:46 Intake Manifold Service Results
13:33 Do Catch Cans Help Carbon?
14:43 Water Methonal Injection and Carbon
16:25 Conclusion
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I'm Italian and I've just discovered the meaning of "Italian tune up" 😂😂. In fact, in Italy we just say "driving normally".
A bit like brazil nuts, in brazil they are just called nuts
My 1st 4 cars were Alfa Romeos. If you didn't thrash them @ least once a week they would start running like crap, probably because of their appetite for the oil. So maybe an 'Italian tune up' was only a neccessary for Italian cars?
But maybe not. Decades ago my boss had a Mercedes. He asked me to take it to the dealer because it had no power. On the way I gave it a thorough thrashing. At first it was definitely sick, but as I neared the dealership it was going much better, so I turned around and thrashed it all the way back. When I got back I gave him the keys and told him it was fixed.
After his puzzled look I told him that he should not not always drive like grandpa.
@@gregculverwell This method is called "freiblasen" in german and actually used to be the common practice for removing carbon buildup in engines. Just drive to a long enoutgh highway section with no speed limit and absolutely floor the pedal for 20-30 minutes.
@@CodewortSchinken freiblasen sounds like a blast it clean? I did that with the 1st Alfa I was bought from the my uncle's neighbour. She sold it's to me for the next to nothing because the engine had a bad rattled and no power. I though it was knew the reasons. She only used it to go to the locals shops a few km away.
The rattle was a loose timing's chain and arrived with a 14mm spanner in my pocket, which is alleged you needed to adjust it.
Then on the Friday night I set out to visit family and out on the farm. Once I got out of on a deserted single lane and put my foot down, redlining in every gear
At first it wouldn't getting past 120 kph, but it slowly improved. When it reached 160 I noticed a red globe behind men an a big cloud of sparks. Its though it is had caught fire & stopped. But there was nothing. I was very puzzled and started out again. The flakes & sparks reappeared, but now I knew it was was all the carbon being burnt out. After the about 10 minutes it stopped and the car was going very well.
I do an Italian tune up every chance! Almost every day! Lol
Humble Mechanic did a video on this like a year or 2 ago.
Easiest thing to do is...
1. get a bunch of small zip ties
2. tape them to a small dowel that you and put in a cordless drill
3. remove intake manifold
4. with valves closed, flood the port with brake clean and let it sit for like 5 min
5. With your mcgyver'd brush in a drill, and run it in the port.
6. soak up/remove the dirty brake clean with a rag
7. repeat with the other ports (with turning the crank by hand to make sure the ports being cleaned are closed)
i was just coming here to say zipties and a drill but i was a year too late 😄
@@billynomates920 Iz why you got no mates, Billy.
What i did, sell the car buy an Electric car and drive that car for 100.000 miles with just only changing tires.
@@HermanWillems well u drove already 100.000 miles? i would be intrested in the real result there. :)
link?
I bought a used VW FSI 2.0T that was seriously clogged. I removed the intake, removed a lot of the carbon using soft aluminum 'chisels' about the size of a flat screwdriver, being careful to ensure the valves were closed so nothing could drop in the cylinder. Then I used a small tube attached to a vacuum to suck out the loose stuff. Then I squirted Castrol Purple cleaning fluid into the head intakes and agitated it around using an old nylon toothbrush and sucked it out a again. I repeated this for each intake throat until they and the valve heads were completely clean. It took an afternoon to clean all eight intake valve throats so they looked like new. Castrol purple is awesome! I have installed a catch can system to the PCV manifold. The car runs great now. Total cost, including the catch can. plumbing and PCV manifold mods was less than $80 and well worth it.
I have yet to meet anyone that has actually achieved anything except clouds of smoke out the exhaust using these various chemical concoctions before paying a mechanic to take the manifold off and physically remove the coke. Don't waste you money. Take the time and do it yourself.
nice job man!
This seems like the best method I’ve read. I’ll give it a go
Pretty much what I did on my 1.9 diesel which are known to cake carbon though I used different product. I used oven cleaner, carb cleaner, water, a pick set, wet dry shop vac, and an air compressor air gun. You just have to be careful, you have to rotate the engine and make sure the valve you're working on is closed then scrape the heavy caked carbon with the picks and vacuum it out. The spray the oven cleaner in and wait for a bit, then spray water in and finally blow out with the air gun, final cleaning is with the carb cleaner to remove any residue. Rinse and repeat on each one until its clean. It got the intake area impressively clean.
He is right. This is literally the only thing that works. You can use other cleaners and high grade solvents as well, but the process is fairly easy and the only way to do it.
The spray-in intake valve cleaners are intended for maintenance purposes, every 5k or 10k depending on your vehicle or how you drive. It's not for cleaning out years of caked on carbon build-up on the intake valves as your used car purchase.
This is the "BEST" most detailed and comprehensive explanation I have ever watched. Thank you very much.
Fantastic video! Educational, while making me laugh out loud multiple times. Great work guys!
This channel is just pure quality by every metric.
The best summary of realistic alternatives to carbon buildup I have seen. I am hoping the combination of having a Gen 3 VW, Top Tier fuel, high quality oil and mostly highway driving will reduce the probability of problems.
Gonna do this on my tesla, thanks for the info
Don't forget to drain the blinker fluid on the Tesla first
BUT! On a Tesla, you don't do the Italian tune up, you do the Martian tune up! Make sure you follow the right procedure! 🤣
Really? Your Tesla? Carbon?
Insert the pipe in your battery pack and start the process, you will get awesome economy with burn motor😂
😂😂
Super informative! Once pointed out, it seems obvious, but I'd never considered this being an issue before for direct injection. Now I know!
Brilliant video, thank you for including the negatives as well as the positives.
Should have seen the amount of smoke that came out of my car. I literally put a cloud down the whole street. It actually stopped traffic . It helped my gdi engine alot. When I put seafoam in it , the bottle says to hold the rpms around 1500-2000 when adding through the intake. And like he said make sure your not spraying the mass airflow sensor . Would highly recommend seafoam .
Good video, very intuitive before/after comparison, hard working and dedicated UA-camr 👏
One of DAP’s best yet! Thanks for puttIng that together.
I didn’t see any difference.
I thought it almost looked worse after it was applied.
@@07slowbalt Likely because the fresh layer of carbon build up hadn't dried, there was some very minor cleaning but running chemicals like thy through the engine isn't ideal.
Not to mention most manuals forbid the usage of engine additives and cleaners. So you are potentially risking warranty if something does go wrong.
Neither me. 🤣
@@BigHeadClan seems like a sure way to clog your cats.
@Stimpy&Ren high pressure fuel pump and injectors
Quite a few years back when i was still a stupid teenager i used to drive my car like if the road was a race track. Litteraly going as fast as the car and road would allow me to, and redlining the crap out of my engine in every gear. I drove a 1999 ford escort turbo DI 1.8 Diesel completely original except for increased boost and according adjustments to the fuel injection pump. All the factory egr and pcv system hadn't been tampered with.
I once dismanteled the intake and egr valve and to my surprise they were absolutely spotless, no sign of carbon build up what so ever. I was quite impressed to say the least ! So i actually do believe in the italian tune up.
Also, when ever a client comes to the garage with huge carbon/oil build up, the car is usually owned by someone who isn't driving it hard enough. The best advice (in my opinion) i can give them is to beat the hell out of their engine once in a while to keep it clean.
Great video - informative and entertaining. I was hoping to see you do a walnut shell service - to see how that worked. I will check out your other videos for that though. Thanks for posting this.
The best way to clean up carbon build-up is to go nuts 😉
Hey look, it's my car! (146k Mk7). Great video as always, and the 5 Guys comparison was spot on
"Who Am I, I'm Just a Guy"- Paul, 2020
Paul gave me Richard Ramirez vibes with that line!
@@818_MT-09 hah...well damn
Chevy Sonic 2012, 1.8L 186,000 miles, high LDL cholesterol, blown head gasket. Currently pulled the head and was wondering why there are particles in my intake. Now I know. Now I have some cleaning to do. Intake valves are relatively surprisingly clean but exhaust valves and exhaust facing guides have carbon buildup. Another set of cleaning to do. Thanks for posting this video
This was the best explanation on this topic I have watched. Thanks 👍
Sarcastic entertainment and education all in one video. Great work! Really like these types of videos.
I have a very simple vacuum operated water injector I built with some basic fittings that I use on a GDI Kia. While I haven’t visually inspected the intake valves, it has been running progressively better the longer the devise is in use. I also think that in addition to cleaning intake valves, it is important to clean the injector nozzles as well, I believe that they get carbon deposits on them in the combustion chamber and these deposits disturb the shape of the spray pattern. This water injection system is in my opinion the very best way to decarbon everything in the combustion chamber, perhaps most importantly the injector nozzles. I’m not a fan of GDi engines, I understand the benefits, but I think they come at too high of a price to be worth it in the long run. Give me the old port injection any day.
Designed to be thrown away at 150,000 max.
The simple fix some manufacturers are using is having a second set of injectors at the port. It's supposed to be used during performance demands and keeps the intake valves clean. Hopefully more manufactures will adopt this method.
I was glad to see the definition of the Italian tuneup. Explains why the 4 orders of ravioli did not clean my intake up. I was thinking I needed to use an arrabbiata sauce rather than a marinara.
Absolute fantastic video I own a couple of cars including a Volkswagen and what's interesting is for my Chevy everything looks pristine even with high mileage since I've gotten the vehicle I used a combination of one cup seafoam and 1/4 cup water mixed through a vacuum line while the engine is at operating temperature and it has cleaned fantastically doing this once a year but the Volkswagen you have to be way more careful what you put in it! By the way if you do my method make sure you do it really slowly
Almost seems like it would be beneficial to run a can of the spray before removing the manifold to help loosen the deposited carbon before jumping into a manual cleaning. Thank you for the new obtained knowledge!
Plastic manifold = no VOC cleaners it will turn into jelly. :)
Great video! It seems like the best solution is to stay away from DI engines and go with a Port or Dual Injection engine.
I agree. The biggest benefit of DI fuel systems is to the auto manufacturer, to meet ever-increasing fuel economy standards. Even a 1-mpg improvement can make a difference to a carmaker - while adding hundreds of dollars in maintenance costs (i.e., media-blasting) to the car's owner, negating fuel cost savings.
youre right but most vag engines before 2015 in the us dont have dual injection
Toyota D4S is your friend
GDI engines are actually a no brainer. That is currently the most efficient fuel delivery method. Compare 2.0 engines of today to decades ago; almost double the HP and better efficiency. Take into account today's fuel has been diluted not just with ethanol but a bunch of additives (try evaporating gasoline and see what percentage of additives are left. Add to that all of the emission controls vehicles have and you can see how much more efficient engines are today.
How you ask?
Direct injection is one piece of the puzzle. The other is fuel delivery PSI. Manufacturers will just keep increasing the fuel pressure to keep the marketing scheme going.
Stratified makes a great little throttle body(sort of) injection system. It is $900.00, but you don't need to mess with a meth injection system( although there is a port for meth as well).
Wow!! This is one of the very few videos I have watched explaining the Engine mechanism! Subb'ed
Thanks for the great information on tackling valve carbon build up. Seems like walnut blasting is the most effective for a GDI.
This was hilarious, good video fellas!
My son and I just settled into the fact that periodic cleaning of carbon build up is just part of owning and Maintaining the GTI. Not so much a bummer any more. We set our self up with the Walnut Blaster, Intake Gaskets, Injector Reseal Kits and fresh Spark Plugs. Tasty Beverage and a few hours....Done.
Better use sea foam every 8K miles as a preventive measure, no more build up.
@@90210sky sea foam in to the gas tank?
@@alexandro6126 you can use it in the gas tank, but I meant to spray into a vacuum line once a month or so, easy and convenient.
great video super informative goes through all of the options that are reasonable for a carbon buildup in a fun informative way great job guys keep it up we're subscribing.
Excellent video ☝️
Catch-Can fan here 👍.
I installed mine on my brand new Honda Ridgeline 3.5-liter V-6 right at 900 miles on the odometer. I’m a Mobil1 user and do my oil changes at 3K miles. First oil change coming up in 500 miles, we’ll see how much condensed stuff is collected…
Thanks for the info !
Thank you! I am using CRC with every oil change! I’ll try this as well.
Gasoline is a great solvent, and it doesn't cost $5 a can.
@@NuMooX so are you saying when they spray the CRC can into the intake we could actually put some gasoline down there?
@@NuMooX gasoline is no where a powerful solvent as valve cleaner
Pull the intake manifold and spray Mr Muscle oven cleaner in the two ports where the valves are closed, leave for 1 hour and then use wire brush to remove all the carbon crud. The valves will come up shiney and new. Rotate the engine so the other valves are closed and repeat. Mr Muscle £8 a can and a couple of hours of your time.
Interesting! How do you get all the gooey crud out though?
Great video that was cool how you showed the before and after. I used the CDI Intake cleaner it definitely made a difference now after seeing this video I feel like I should spray another can or two into my Kia soul 2016 40k miles. I changed my spark plugs on my Kia soul at 40k miles. Decided to check them today Why have my new spark plugs blackened after only a month. My oil is still crystal clear I only drive locally to run errands and food shopping. Just wondering if this is normal. your channel should absolutely have millions of subscribers for sure. Use better tags and descriptions.
you have a nice way about you. I have a 16v nightmare much different but I watch because it's informative and entertaining
Hello, EA211 TSI owner here. If feels like you dumped the stuff into the cold engine, considering how the engine rattles. High temperatures speedup such chemical reactions - try cleaning carbon buildup on a hot electric kitchen stove vs cold, you'll see how easier hot one is dissolving. :) So the overall result would probably be better when the engine was fully warmed up.
Thanks for the video, I have 55k miles on my engine, should try this in the future.
Save yourself 18mins - no, it doesn't work
Did not see the vid but i know what worx - egr/carb cleaner sprayed directly in the intake (through throttle), the stuff that went out of the exhaust 😲😲😲 EDIT: though the guy who sprayed it sprayed too little, 500ml can and there's still more than 2/3rds in there
Do you recommend fuel induction service ? I just did it last week hopefully it helps, not sure how often I should do it ? Great video overall 👍🏼
very well put together video, thank you for creating this one.
Toyota has a wonderful system that combines port and direct injection systems on several of its engines. Not only does it get rid of the problem you're talking about; Port Injection works better at idle and lower speeds. And there are conditions where both systems are used simultaneously for better efficiency
Fords f150 I think offers this or at least has port injection one one motor still
What makes you think Port Injection is better at idle?
as far as im aware, the port injector on the d4s system is only used on cold start and during warm up? im sure it still helps
@@Buddahknife I do not believe that is true. I believe it is used generally at lower RPM; and sometimes simultaneously with direct injection. I'm sure Toyota has all this figured out as to the advantages of doing it that way
@@Buddahknife it is also used as you describe
Great video 👍🏻
I reckon EVs like ID.3/4 will take care of having to deal with this issue 😎
I’m happy to have port injection in my car however my wife’s is DI 😖
Great coverage of the issue. Thx!
Well done!!! On a new GDI engine, how often should a spray treatment be done? What are those with Big HP V-8 engines such as ford doing?
There is one true fix, Ford calls it dual-fuel, Toyota calls it D-4S, even VW has already implemented their solution in other markets. Multiport fuel injection, add some good old port injection to a direct injected engine to keep those intake valves clean. This is the reason I traded my 2015 F150 for a 2018. Thankfully the aftermarket has come to the rescue with kits available. I'll take a good look at the options once my water pump goes and I have to pull the intake manifold.
I've been using the exact same intake manifold method with the Liqui Moly Valve Cleaner on my wife's 1.6T Hyundai engine. I perform that procedure annually and do not see the typical white smoke from the exhaust that is so prominent for e.g. Sea Foam. I'm very pleased with the results, I do compare the before and after with a borescope camera. Yes yes I know the Valve cleaner is a fuel additive, but in the the direct injection engine it would not be sprayed over the vales so it needs a bit of help :) Not endorsing anything, just sharing my experience. Perform at your own risk.
So I have a big question for you how many miles on that Tucson ? Also did you have to take off the intake manifold to inspect the valves I have a 2020 Tucson aswell new and I run a catch can but would like to inspect the valves someday without having to remove the intake manifold like I had to on our 2016 Tucson. All I gotta say manually cleaning the valves sucked bad lol your back is going to hurt lol.
@@henrytom5824 Around 30k on the first cleaning. I'm not removing the intake manifold, just the pressure/temp sensor from the intake manifold (two screws only). I use a borescopes camera to inspect the valves before and after through the sensor hole. It's tricky but doable. For the cleaning itself, I just peel the sensor a bit and spray small doses of the valve cleaner with a small syringe.
Another great video. Informative and entertaining 👍
I was googling this issue on my Toyota Prius Gen 3, did not know that Audi guys had covered this LOL. Guess I got to open my intake manifold then, and give it a good scrub. Thanks 😌
You can add an oil catch can to help prevent carbon build up. It actually works as I installed one in my Accord and every oil change I see about 0.5 oz of oil inside and my car only has 30k miles. I highly recommend this product as it works and easy to install.
8 months later, still running WMI on my ea888 gen1 which takes me to almost 2 years in total of WMI on that engine. It's doing its job. In the long term I would say the initial cost and install time it has been worth while.
I would like to mention that I was having minor cold start misfires before I installed the WMI,after about a month of running -20f washer fluid with the wmi starting to spray at 3psi and progress to full spary at 25psi. I did/do run the car hard so it sprays often. Anyways,after about a month my cold start misfire went away and hasn't came back at all. I haven't had the manifold off in a couple of years(hope it stays that way.) So I can't tell you for sure how the valves look.
so your not sure if it actually is keeping them clean?
Great video! Graphics and the pics are amazing at showing us the full story.
So that was a TSI! Shoot, mines a TDI, will it be any worse?
Has 106000 on the odometer.
Question. Using one of the intake valve spray cleaners (Berryman's, Seafoam, CRC) directly into a cold/warm intake and brushing valves and stems to clean requires hand turning the engine so valves are closed, so quantities of liquid don't end up in the combustion chamber causing hydro lock and possible damage. I would think some might still make it's way inside. Do you think turning over the engine with spark plugs removed so liquid is forced downstream, and/or allowed to dry help reduce the chance of locking? I'm not a mechanic, but am just learning about the faults of GDI (wife's Subaru with 150k miles). I don't think just spraying through a vacuum line in hopes of magically washing away years of cooked on carbon is going to cut it. Any thoughts?
I love how you say science says it just doesn't work and there is papers proving it,
even though I saw others do it and also did it myself, and it worked
Anecdotal evidence is not proof something works
Yeah ive seen a few videos where guys use an inspection camera show gunked up valves, use crc and then show the valves again and there is a good 70-80% reduction in the build up.
I did the ol “aggressively ram zip ties into the valves for 2 hours” trick. Worked great! now I know that my oil burning issue is elsewhere 😂
Could I ask, does the audi s4 3.0 v6 engine have a big issue with carbon buildup? Could you use this product on the hole the pipe goes into in the intake just before the supercharger intake manifold? (don't know all the technical terms but I'm sure this makes sense to you as you own an s4)
Thanks
Great job man. Keep it up.
For those who remember it, there was also Throttle Body Injection (TBI), a.k.a. the White Castle of fuel injection systems.
I owned a Throttle body injection Chevy truck....those were the days🤣
@@gatornation3889 yup I had an old ‘89 S-10 Blazer 4.3L with TBI. I took off the air cleaner once and watched the cone sprays, kinda fascinating.
@@peacefrog0521 that was a bad ass engine that 4.3
Stratified makes a "5th injector" kit. It is about a grand and comes with it's own fuel meter system. FSI and TSI I believe.
We used to use water from an atomizer bottle on the intake that helped a lot.
Also back in the day we would just switch spark plug leads and there be a little bit of detonation there and that would blow stuff out too. Just don't do it too often.
Would semi-regular servicing (e.g. every oil change or every 20k) be viable, or is that too much money/chemicals being dumped into the engine?
I have a 2017 Ford Taurus SHO.. it has the twin turbo'd 3.5L V6... with direct injection. I use high-quality oil (Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30), a JLT catch can, CRC's Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner (which is "specifically designed/formulated for this issue), and a Snow Performance Meth kit... My valves look nearly new. Bought the car used at 42k miles with one previous owner, I'm at 62k now. I've used the CRC spray twice so far. I change oil every 10k miles, and I check my catch can regularly.
It looks like the intake chamber carbon ended up on the valves. I think 2 treatments in a row would be an interesting view.
Anybody that has done a manual cleaning on a DI engine will know there's no way product you spray into the intake is gonna do anything significant.
DiagnoseDan did a similar test with a "powerful" product they only sell to shops, and same thing--very small amount of removal. No such thing as mechanic-in-a-bottle/can.
Yea well I wonder if a water injection system would help.
I ran a homemade one on my tdi for years, and also routed the pcv somewhere else.
When I tore it down after 60k or so, the ports had nada buildup and the pistons and combustion chambers didn't look like a diesel.
It had black on it but not any thick carbon at all.
You'd get a dirty finger if you ran it down a port wall but it was clean as a whistle.
My setup blew right in the turbo as I had no intercooler on that setup, so that's easy.
With an intercooler it could puddle up and cause issues , at that point it's better to pressurize it and inject after the intercooler.
actually B-12 Chemtool combined with the drill wire brush was a pure magic. Well, the true magic is a wire brush tbh
@@GlennC789 i would also like to know. Although it seems that sucking it out with a vacuum cleaner of some sorts would be bestm
They work if you use them before the carbon gets so bad it requires manual cleaning. Using intake cleaner prior to every oil change and your valves will be spotless.
@@GlennC789 When I did this on a GM 3.0 V6 (100k miles, had never been cleaned - it was bad), I pulled the intake and turned the engine over by hand til the valves I wanted to work on were closed, then used a set of long picks to break the bulk of the softer crud off. If you use steel picks, be careful not to score up the valves. Then I used a shop vac to suck as much of that crud out as I could. Then, I sprayed some CRC GDI Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner directly onto the valve stems until the little pocket they sit in in the head was full, and they were submerged in the stuff, and let it soak for a bit. Then I uses several sizes of long handled copper and nylon "bottle brushes" that I bought at Harbor Freight to scrub off the rest of the crap, then blotted it all up with shop towels. Don't suck it out with a vacuum, I imagine it would explode! After I'd gotten the stems and back of the valves pretty well cleaned up, I turned the engine to open the valves and scrubbed the mating surfaces between the seat and valve the best I could with a thin but stiff nylon brush. Then I moved on to the next cylinder. All in all, I think it took me a solid 6-7 hours (like I said, they were in bad shape).
Now, the CRC cleaner is meant to be sprayed into the intake with the engine running, like the product shown in this video. I did use it that way after the manual cleaning, but it would never have gotten through the buildup without some manual action on the valves, as bad as they were. But I do believe the stuff is legitimate for routine maintenance, and would probably prevent the buildup from ever getting that bad to begin with. Here is a video about the stuff I used (I have no affiliation with them at all, I'm just a shadetree mechanic):
ua-cam.com/video/RcVDZAauO88/v-deo.html
What an eye opening problem and the need for periodic maintenance
This is why at every vw Stealership I've ever worked at, we just replace the manifold and walnut blast the hell out of the head. Only real way to get a D.I. engine clean. Same with my time at the BMW shops. Walnut blast. I think the seafoam method via the brake booster vacuum line only really works well on conventional f.i. style cars. I've had great success with it in that scenario
@@monkymind4316
IIRC like 4 or so hours of labor. I'd check to see what book time is on pulling the intake manifold, and then add on at least an hour to blast the ports. I'd probably say 2 to 2.5 hours to pull the manifold and then another 1.5 hours to blast. If you really want to know, I would give them a call and ask them. If you have access to the equipment to blast, the job is really easy and it's a pretty simple DIY with basic tools. HTH. Take care.
Good video! Actually I missed the very effective walnut blast method. It definitely comes with some costs and can’t be done at home, but achieves great results 😊
Not true, did mine at home and there are many kits available online starting at $100
@@juanramos2745 ONLY if you already have the blasting hardware. Otherwise you're investing in a blasting setup which is going to be a fair chunk of change.
< $200 total at harbor freight ask me how I know
I did mine at home with walnut blast. Just used small blaster and shopvac hooked up to suck away the walnut shelling
I’ve read papers on the Italian tune-up my impression is that if it’s an engine that’s consistently run hard and hot, it can somewhat mitigate he buildup of carbon. So basically if it’s a track car or race car that spends it’s life at high RPMs it may not be an issue. But you’ll probably have to tear that engine down after tens of thousands of miles on a track anyway.
I think that'd be more applicable to carbed or port fuel injected cars since there you do have gas run down the valves whereas in GDI it'd only maybe clean the pistons
I've been cleaning my Toyota Yaris 1.5L DI with CRC intake valve cleaner since 19k miles when I bought it. I do this at every 5000 mile oil change. You have to be careful, because the car doesn't really care for the process. After the 1hr heat soak is when things get interesting. I carefully run the residual cleaner through the engine until it's cleaned out, and quits smoking. I avoid loading, because it will miss guaranteed. After clearing it out, I immediately change the oil. I plan to do a before and after borescope this summer to see how effective it is. But the motor runs great at 55k. No misses. No power loss that I can tell.
Great content, thank you!
Great video! As someone who just completed a manual scrub of my TSI intake valves, I’m glad to see the snake oil solutions debunked. It’s not a difficult procedure to just remove the damn manifold and do a proper cleaning - and it’s very satisfying to experience the before and after.
How long did it take you to perform the cleaning? At 45k I’m wondering if I should try this stuff for shots and giggles or say fuq it and do the cleaning at 60k or 75k.
@@mexifinn7830 I’ve used the sea foam shortcuts - it’s a waste of time and money. The manual cleaning is really not too hard. Follow the DIY video and make sure you have all the right tools. It took me about 10 hrs - taking my time over 2.5 days. I could do it again in about 4 hrs I think.
Did you spray anything on the valves to help with removal? Gasoline, solvent?
easy on an inline 4. Whole nother can of worms on any larger motor...
@@peterjordan9321 not easy and not snake oil, liqui moly and CRC make great valve cleaning and TURBO cleaners for GDI vehicles
All the fuel savings cost goes down the drain when you have to spend hundreds to get walnut blasted.
I made my own vacuum attachment that goes over the intake port and bought a sand blaster and walnut media. Was way better than a can of cleaner when I was done. Used a clean vacuum filter and reused the media for each intake port.
exactly, now how do i figure out if my brasilian build 2016 VW engine is GDI or port injected? if I ask in english no conclusive result appears and I have no Idea how to write or read brasilian. is there an international GDI database?
@@naotamf1588 GDI should have injectors directly in the engine block, while port injection should be before the intake valve, in manifold. You should match them easily by looking at the position of injectors on the engine.
@@robertfattaruso1280 Show us the video please? Id like to try this set up
Ordered an received an fuel injector removal an seal install tool kit from you at Deutsche auto just wanted to say the tool kit is top quality an I'm very happy an pleased with my purchase,I'd recommend buying this kit for anyone looking to do a carbon cleaning job on there di turbo motor,now just waiting on the seals an walnut blast kit I got coming along with the catch can system,,which if done right I believe is a must for 1.8/2.0t motors ,,,the right catch can kit is expensive an ppl are on the fence about if the motor benefits from it or not ,,well from what I've seen an researched it's better to have one then not ,,after you clean the carbon by hand that is ,,then use the chemical cleaning before every oil change an that'll deff prolong having to pull the manifold off every 30 to 40 k ,, also please use premium gas in these engines ppl ,you get the same mileage anyways ,,,87 is the enemy of these motors ,,thanks again for the kit top top quality for the price👍
Hey.
Great video, can you do one about the old 1,4 TSI with turbo and supercharger?
On that one the intake is against the firewall, so much harder to perform,
It was better looking in "before" pictures, just my 2cents.
I feel like spraying it in on a completely cold engine (so it doesn’t evaporate as fast)for a few second, allowing it to soak into the carbon for a while with the engine off, then spray the rest of the bottle as the engine warms up, might give it the best chance if rinsing the valve and port
Berryman 0996-ARM B-9 Chem Dip Parts Cleaner
This stuff works to get rid of carbon buildup like nothing else and it doesn't cause any damage like some decreasers would. I haven't tried this but not doubt would work; injecting the stuff into the valve port while it's closed and let it sit for a couple days.
@@levthelion I agree. Hest!!!
Definitely right I’ll try with a cold engine next time
Hi, did you ever put a list for your MK7 white GTI installed parts? ( brakes, suspension, wheels, etc.?)
good thesis and correct
That wagon is absolutely beautiful. Really sad to see it go from the VW model lineup.
Exactly my thoughts when I saw it. As the original owner of a B6 Passat Wagon, I Love the design of older VW wagons they built back then. And they were quality vehicles even with their small quirks like excessive oil consumption and carbon buildup.
You can try using round aluminum telescopic tube, 1/16 or 3/32 diameter, glue and bend 2-4 of them to a shape that would fit in the MAP sensor hole with a rubber plug at around mid point. Then snug fit the outside end to a spray feeding tube. That way you can safely control the spray direction inside the intake feeding each cylinder equally.
The carbon deposit can be blasted with dry-ice blaster with a tip-nipple between 10mm-20mm and then air cleaned with a pressurized air-gun.. no more carbon deposits super quick !
@@poplaurentiu4148 If all that could fit in the MAP sensor hole and without removing the intake manifold or fuel rail. If I have to remove it, I'd use a walnut blaster. Your technique may work also 🍻 I hate these direct fuel injected cars. Port injection or electric the way to go. Just add more gears to be at a lower rpm at cruising speed, if they want to save fuel. Direct injection and auto start systems ends up burning more time and resources as it requires more frequent fuel pump replacement due to higher pressure, fuel injectors replacement as the seals goes bad on them when removing to clean the carbon, and starters replacement from repetitious ignition. That's not even factoring in the time or resources to get and stock those parts on the shelf. But the government likes the tax money, the dealer likes replacing and over charging for parts, and the people can care less because there's no pride in ownership (lease and replace cars in a year or so). So that small amount of fuel a direct injection system might save does more harm than good. Like said, just more gears lower rpm would equal the same proficiency.
The catch can set up works best for those of us who do our own oil changes. I have a homemade system and simply add the gunky water/oil to my used motor oil that will be turned in to the county household hazardous waste program facility. When away from home I take the used motor oil to a WalMart that has a vehicle service garage. Some rare gas stations even have a waste oil burner for winter heat and can actually directly utilize your used motor oil. I made my homemade oil catch system after seeing the $200 that Condensator wants for their product. Other ones aren't so cheap either though some are better cost wise than others.
Chrysler was selling Port injected cars in 1956. The only issue that they ran into, was that the condenser raps were not insulated against radio interference from bad Transformers out on the road. And if you got near one of them it would start acting up. Surprisingly they were not able to figure that out before they had sold their injection systems to bosch for them to work with.
Surprisingly, that original 1956 system when you correct and rewrap those exact same condensers resistors, they work wonderfully.
Sea Foam: Yet needs to directly applied to the valves, and allow to soak (rotate last cylinder), works awesome.
Scavenger kit: Catch can who?
The Italian tune up method worked on my 2014 AUDI Q5 with the 2.0l. It is running belter than any other time since we bought it in 14. We only have 33k miles on it. It also cleared out two codes.
the italian tune up for older cars is especially effective with a caravan behind. like my dad said he owned a petrol and a friend owned a diesel and they both went on caravan vacation, they had to stop and chill in a long uphill because the old diesel was almost overheating. at the start of the vacation the little petrol opel ran best but on the way home he struggled keeping up with his diesel owning friend as he had burned it clean of soot and stuff in the combustion chamber xd
Thanks you for this video
@Paul, would it make sense to drill holes in the plastic intake manifold into each cylinder to better deliver the chemical/petroleum product? CRC is also one of them. Later just plug the holes with good rubber fasteners to keep the holes sealed until next service.
Nope. Wouldn’t hold boost
There is one situation where the Italian tune-up works perfectly. on a system where low load is direct injection, and high load uses upper level port injectors.. regularly driving the vehicle hard enough prevents the type of carbon buildup you're talking about.
Babying the vehicle around, "driving nice", causes carbon buildup
I did exactly what you described at 7:20min. Scrubbing, cleaning, scrubbing and cleaning etc. It took a day on my 6 cylinder and the car drives like new again. It was completely black and thick on my BMW N54 engine.
It is also easy to do with some technical knowledge. Take intake manifold off, clean and replace intake manifold rubber gasket.
Doing mine at the moment . How did you crank the engine over to get the last 2 valves?
@@edencovich6148 I hope you have figured it out. But I just tried to start it which moved the valves.
Thank you for the video.
Avoid short trips, change your oil slightly more frequently than vw specifies and use the best quality fuel available...prevention is better than the cure
Quality fuel has nothing to do with it. And changing oil slightly early won’t do anything. No matter what you do you WILL get carbon buildup.
@@theofficialwizard2753 Vent the PCV into the atmosphere, that will fix it. 😉
@@theofficialwizard2753 but with the newer engines there's combined port injection with direct, which should help with cleaning the carbon
just buy a Toyota or a Lexus, they have port and direct fuel injection, so no issues when it comes to carbon build
@@doctorwarpspeed8779 I am concerned more about my home Earth than a stupid car engine. Thanks God, not everyone thinks like you about releasing it into the atmosphere. Just take off your manifold every 70k-100k miles, soak valves with B12-chemtool and remove the gunk with a drill wire brush
It would have been nice if they put inspection ports on the intake ports. This way you not have to remove the entire intake to inspect and easier address the problem.
if they do that they could just fix the actual problem anyways
Toyota literally has this what are y’all smoking
Where Paul inserted the chemical line you can buy a boroscope for your phone and fish it in to see the valves
@@kevinmallon8692 I was thinking the same thing while watching this video. I have a wifi boroscope. I’ll try it out and check soon.
@@mohammadkamran5862 let us know how it went with your car Mohammad
Any thoughts on if these so called cleaners are safe for catalytic converters? I am leaning towards a 70k mile manual cleaning, especially as my Honda V6 is known to need a valve adjustment around this time.
I had an intake manifold leak on my 4.3 Chevy V6. When correcting the problem, I noticed the driver's side head and rocker arms looked beautiful and clean. The passenger side however had what I would consider a typical amount of residue for a 250,000 mile engine.
The driver's side, the clean side, vents to just below the air cleaner above the throttle body.
I always assumed the PCV side of the engine would allow blowby vapors into the engine.
I installed a catch can on the driver's side and I was surprised to see that moisture and snotty looking stuff inside the can. I now have suspicions of a head gasket leak at the same location, allowing water into the lifter valley just as before.
I'm thinking positive about this. If moisture (steam) kept the rocker arms clean, maybe this moisture being sucked into the engine is keeping my intake valves clean. 😁
Hey, I'm a positive thinker. My catch can is half-full, not half empty. 👍
I know this video is a couple years old but it's great information 👍
lol well at least now I know I've been wasting my money on the sprays that do nothing. walnut blast or manual removal is definitely the way to go.
If used since new they have been helping you. They just won't fix a already bad buildup
Whoever gives this video a thumbs down must be from those gas treatment companies.
Yes. That boat cleaning company for example.
I heard that some engines have both port and direct injection.Could a direct injection engine be retrofitted with separate low psi metered fuel injectors into the intake runners to clean the intake valves? Wouldn`t the o2 sensors lean out the fuel air ratio?Just wondering.You would have to drill and tap the runners and add another regulator on that side of the fuel delivery.
Ive heard multiple times, LATER Gen 3 engines are less prone to carbon build up. Why is that? What’s changed? I run CRC valve & turbo cleaner through the intake on my 16 GTI & it seems to run great. Im now at 92k and am wondering if I need to get it carbon cleaned or is my Gen 3 less prone to this issue and why? Really enjoy your videos.
2:40 That 5 cylinder animation must be rare
The best ideal would be to add a very small fuel injector to the intake manifold and then program it inti the system.
They do look up the new Toyota’s. They have dual injectors.
I wonder if polishing those intake runner castings would help reduce the buildup