Hi guys! Finally, a fully 3D printed rim to end this year with! I wish you all the best for 2021 and let it be filled with lots of cool projects! Don’t forget to get your 10% discount by entering the properprinting promo code during checkout at www.3d4makers.com/ you’ll help this channel too :D
Great video! You could work on just the structural integrity of the rim by using an inner tube to hold the air pressure and then once you get that working, then work on sealing. Also, you may need a larger diameter air hose to get the tire to "pop" onto the bead (once you get it sealed) - it takes quite a bit of air flow to get one of those tires to seal up. Keep up the great work!
@@KellyBC Thanks for your suggestions and it's indeed a good idea to try with an inner tube first! This doesn't require that "pop" either which makes things a lot easier :)
Try active heating in the print chamber. I've had the same issue with abs. "Supposedly" raising the print chamber temp with a heat allows for better layer adhesion and running the cooling fan at a higher %
This is the most realistic UA-cam channel anyone els would have faked it all to make it look like a success, glad you keep it real, because truth is if you like making stuff you are going to “fail” more than you succeed and that needs to be more glorified!
I agree. The few channels that I've found that not only keep in errors and mistakes, but also talk through them, are much more valuable to me than the channels that just shows the end result looking all perfect
Those paintbrush POV shots made me smile despite being so simple. Thank you for pushing the community forward with your excited projects. 2021 is gonna be awesome
Your videos are so entertaining. It is refreshing to see a 3D printing UA-cam channel that is not just about reviews and we can follow you projects and count your injuries lol.
Thanks Karl! I often get asked by 3D printer companies to make reviews for them. I do accept sponsored products, but only those which actually help with the project and make the video about the project. So, I reject a lot xD
@@properprinting I have nothing against product reviews but a lot channels it is all they seem to do now. Next you will be printing the tyre out of flex too.
Brilliant channel. Love seeing your process and your learnings along the way. I would never do something as crazy/different as a printed rim, and I am captivated at this whole journey. Thanks for your extra effort in your Camera work to make some very interesting montage's. Hope the result is as fun for you as it is enjoyable to watch. Happy new year.
Before mounting the tire, apply grease where the tire seats. When inflating the tire remove the valve inside the valvestem then enough air can enter to let the tier pop out where it will seat. That's how the professionals do it.
One of the best (if not the best) 3d printing channel on YT. I am an engineering student and your videos inspire me to experiment and use my knowledge to make things! Danku u well!
Finally! Have found a video where someone has done this. Awesome videos! Cannot wait to see more. As for someone who is rapid proto typing all sort of custom parts to build the race car for research and development, this gives me excitement to know there is no end to possibilities!
Nice idea, but you Have to change the thickness on the brocken Area.. Your thikness have to be "New thickness = original thickness x 20 or30*. In case of that the original ist steel. In case of alu *New thickness= original thickness x 10or15* The next Problem you will get under air pressure of 2 Bar. With This pressure and This space you get an very high force. So you Have to increase the thickness every with the formula. Good luck
This was awesome! I was instinctively getting ready to duck as you were lowering the jack hahaha. So glad I found your channel! Keep up the great work.
I was on the edge of my seat while you were lowering the Jack. I love that your videos show your process even at these learning stages. So many just focus on the final product. Thank you for your efforts!
That is what i mentioned already before. Put it in a huge box with salt, and heat it in the oven, it will become as strong as being molded, instead of printed. Maybe even the currentr print can be saved, or used as test subject
Celebrating this failure as part of the engineering process is fantastic! It's great to keep a healthy attitude and stick with things in order to keep it fun. Thank you for the content!
An enjoyable and entertaining video to close out the year. The blooper at the end was 🤣🤣🤣. I like watching your iterative process though I can't yet imagine the effort that goes into recording your exploits. Layer adhesion is not your friend so far. If you have any gaps between perimeters you need to adjust your profile to close them up. That rim likely needs to be solid, literally. As you've probably realized by now, you'll need much thicker cross sections for your material than with metals. Your external design may be fixed, but you can thicken a lot into the compressed-air space for better strength. Good luck with the next revision in 2021.💪👍🛵
Thanks for your feedback! The crack appeared after I tightened those bolts and the rim was warped. At this moment I've got 5 perimeters with a 1.2mm nozzle and damn, this eats a lot of material haha xD 2021 will be new design, better print process and it'll work ;)
Instead of printing a wheel that looks good try designing a wheel to be 3d printed. You can't just take a "normal" object and 3d print it and expect it to function. But in most cases you can design an object to be 3d printed that will have the same function as the part it replaces and be successful. It will look different but the function is always better if you design for printing.
While it didn't work this time, you sir are still a legend just for trying something like this! Love it! Keep on being awesome! Preferably without injuring yourself.
Beginning of video prediction. You can't run angled seat bolts in almost any 3d print. The tightening forces required too be safe on the car put an expanding force on the seat. That part of the rim needs flat bottom fasteners or better yet machined steel or aluminum sleeves with flat lip epoxied into the rim with the bevel inside the metal insert. As it is, tight nuts against these seats will produce white stress marks in the plastic then splits. But I love the channel! Enjoyed the process.
Nice work, you are taking a big challenge there. By experience I've tried to make 3D printed watertight vessels and I must say that for this to be archived you need to do a acetone vapor post processing, and even doing this I had problems with microleaks. I wish good look for your project.
It's so cool to be alive in a time with such a technology boom, to be able to watch all these different things and manufacturing techniques Chang the world.
Hey man! Awesome idea! Never thought of trying something like that, but it seems really cool! I just want to give you a tip that has helped me a lot of times already: Think outside of the box! You made the pieces that will be bolted together small. Make such a piece stronger! It does not have to look like a rim to function like a rim Keep up the good work!
How can you tell when someone is having fun and enjoying what he is doing? When he can fart, laugh and publish it online. Keep the good work my'man and happy new year. 🥳
Great to see you boldly trying crazy stuff and documenting also the failures. Keep up the good work! When you said some sanding was needed, for a moment I thought you were going to bolt the wheel to the car and "lathe" it smooth with some sand paper.
FYI when trying to seat a tire take the valve stem center out and it goes it at higher volume and will help seal the bead also what I do is if you have one side on the bead put tire on a can and push down the center and add air. But definitely helps with center of valve out
Two things: 1 use tubed tires instead of tubles, that solves issue with air coming out and the pressure on the rim will be of compression instead of trying to split it apart. 2A use acetone vapor to smooth the rim it will help remove crack that will split the rim. 2B anneal the rim to make it a solid, also increasing the print temperature will give worse finish but better strength.
I think the only way to successfully do something like this would be to print something and then cast it. But hats off to you if it can be done with just plastic and good design.
Eliminating the long hose will allow more air to enter the wheel faster, possibly helping it expand enough to seal. Worked for a small wheel for a trailere that had come loose from its rim
Awesome and crazy haha. I remember when I was in school to work on aircraft, they told us most deaths in aviation are due wheels exploding during pressurization. Airplane wheels are split down the center like that too. We never messed with the pressure on wheels until the wheel was in a steel cage hahaha. Be careful! I like the Mini btw.
Lol almost there! For your next version you should do the simulation module in fusion and see if that helps. It’s also a pretty cool visual for the video. Happy new year!
Yes, I have to do the finite element analysis for my next iteration. The part that failed in this video would've been found if I've done that. Happy new year!
Nothing comes out right the first time, your the man you will make it . Stay true to yourself and you can do anything. Great ending for the video, lol.
You'd rather use the printed rim to make a mold to cast aluminum... There's no problem with the design but with the material. I was pretty pessimistic that you could inflate the tire totally. Thank you for having tested it. It's despite that very last disappointment, a success.
this was an amazing experiment I think you should build a bead lock system, you need to tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern when mounting your tire to avoid the unequal pressure and you should consider adding metal hardware inside your design to have something to avoid putting pressure on the thread. I wish you lots of success, you're now aware of one way it does not work, I can't wait to see the way that does!
Hello Jón, I can hardly wait until you have modified the draft and are going to try again. Here is a small piece of advice for the next attempt. Normally the internal part of the valve is always screwed out to inflate the tyre. What you finally do is to force the full reservoir pressure out of the tyre into presses which will make it easier for the tyre to settle at the bead level. For your own safety you might want to have your tyre/rim combination inflated in a cage at the tyre dealer with some tyre assembly tube.
Thanks for your suggestion. Printing it in one piece has the downsides that it costs more material when only the hub fails (it didn't in this video, but I recon it will), it's more difficult to print and it would be much harder to get a tire around it. For my next iteration almost impossible because I'll remove the well to make it stronger.
@@properprinting what about a thicker center piece and having a beadlock on both sides of the rim. This would allow you to bulk up all three pieces and would help with sealing the bead better
@@b3nyboi that's a good idea and I'll keep it in mind, thanks! I'm going to make it thicker and use an inner tube. This will make my life much easier xD I think I have a good design in mind, but this still is a two piece rim
As the force of the car is essentially coming down on a few print layers, you might want to try not only thickening but putting some "buttress" type inserts on the inside of the back of the rim to distribute the force more - you'd need to be mindful of the disc for the brake, but this might helpprvent all that weight being applied to just one area of the print...anyway, thanks for the video and I wish you every success in 2021!
Super excited to see this project come to conclusion. I think if you thicken those walls and get the tire under pressure it will have much better chances.
Ah, and what you should have done is, release the jack in one go. That's what a tire fitter would do, because his coffee is getting cold and he still needs to fit you three other tires and check them on the balancer! Oh and I was already subscribed before I watched this one. 😁
great idea. I would use long threaded rods instead of the screws and screw them across the entire width. Make sure to print at a higher temperature (+10) and design the spokes flat without overhang. I print large parts with a 1mm nozzle and don't like black filament because it breaks often between the layers.
@@properprinting It's the inner part of the valve that you remove, using a tool a bit like a screwdriver, but with a notch at the end of the shaft instead of a blade. - It's not to avoid causing an obstruction for the tyre, but to allow the air to flow through unrestricted. This gives the compressor a better chance of getting the tyre seated on the bead.
First things first, printing in that orientation is almost guaranteed failure along layer line axis as the static load is a linear shear force aligned with the weakest axis in the print(as well as in motion the torsional forces from accelerating/braking are also aligned with said weakest axis). There's not really a great axis to print on because wheels are subject to such a wide array of forces in almost all directions...but annealing the material might help there(see Third point below). Second, ABS has a higher impact resistance, but PLA has a higher strength and stiffness according to the data CNC kitchen got from testing PLA/PETG/ASA(ABS) a while back. Also, PLA+ or Tough PLA, depending on the manufacturer, can be annealed to create a better layer bond(increasing the odds for an air tight seal) and allow it to be more readily sandable for a smoother surface finish.........And they don't have a high tendency to warp like ABS. My suggestion is to print in Tough PLA, anneal it properly, sand ALL the surfaces well, coat them in a few layers of resin, cure fully and then(if necessary) apply a gasket maker to the mounting surfaces before bolting them all together around the tire. Third, your design appears to be some sort of hybrid between 2 piece and 3 piece wheels. Granted, I understand that a new design might be necessary to manage the stresses with an alternative material(plastic in this case), but if you're shooting for a 2 piece design the barrel needs to be all one piece and the disk should bolt to the barrel. I think in your case, it would be best to go for a 3 piece as it makes mounting tires easier and allows for smaller/less complex prints. That being said, the disk needs to be a single piece sandwiched/compressed between the inner and outter barrel sections. This focuses a lot of the stress along a single plane where all three are mounted together(so reinforce the hell out of the mounting holes). You probably already gathered that though since that's where your wheel failed in this video. Hope this helps.
I thought of that, but here is the thing: While acetone smoothing could help in regards to have a better a seal it wouldn't help to improve the layer adhesion as the smoothing only occurs on the outside of the print which won't make it a stronger print in that regard for that I think annealing would be the way the go, btw I think CNC Kitchen made a video about it
As a mechanic, you should lube the rim and tire BEFORE mounting the rim. You may have more success with air too so the weight is not on the rim alone. I can't wait to see part 2! 😁 Please heed my advice
What a nice surprise for 2020! (so few nice ones) Was not expecting to see this yet. Looking forward to seeing your rim in PEEK or one of the other high performance filaments (and a like sponsorship deal!) in 2021! Were there washers on those rim-half bolts? That could help. .. Also, longer bolts. Try to keep the plastic out of tension unnecessarily.
I'm so glad that my first real try is done within this year. Wow, a rim printed in PEEK would really be next level! I'm not even sure if the chamber I use will be capable of reaching the required temperatures xD I'll need two print heads because I otherwise have to throw away 100's of Euro's xD I didn't use washers and I should've done that. In this design this wasn't the weakest point and I'm glad it failed due to a design flaw and not due to the cracks ;)
Nice! One thing I have found out is that due to the plastic used in 3D printing, you will need to make the part thicker to achieve the same toughness as with the metal part. Such an example is the mounting bracket for AM4 processors for Corsair Hydro i100. The original bracket is made from 2-3 mm thick stainless steel, the one that I printed with PETG was around 1-1.5 cm thick. Which is around 5 times thicker. I would suggest going for the slimmest parts to be at least 6-7 times thicker.
@@properprinting Just before start design and print, try some tests with different materials. I see that you are keen on using ABS for the rims. For example, test a sheet of aluminium with around 2-3 mm thickness and try to achieve the same toughness and flexibility with ABS. Let's say... That I have wasted a couple of days redesign and reprint parts just to find a perfect fit or toughness.
A good next step would be to try the process with smaller tires first, like for a wheelbarrow or go-cart or something similar. They'll be smaller so you'll be able to more rapidly prototype and figure out what works and what doesn't.
Yes the structure of the rim has to be reinforced to supplement the loss of tensile and compressive strength,I suggest triple the thickness of the ring, use 3 spokes withe triple thickness
Hi guys! Finally, a fully 3D printed rim to end this year with! I wish you all the best for 2021 and let it be filled with lots of cool projects! Don’t forget to get your 10% discount by entering the properprinting promo code during checkout at www.3d4makers.com/ you’ll help this channel too :D
Check on drag racing rims, they have bead on the outside and are bolted together (beadlock rims)
Great video! You could work on just the structural integrity of the rim by using an inner tube to hold the air pressure and then once you get that working, then work on sealing. Also, you may need a larger diameter air hose to get the tire to "pop" onto the bead (once you get it sealed) - it takes quite a bit of air flow to get one of those tires to seal up. Keep up the great work!
@@KellyBC Thanks for your suggestions and it's indeed a good idea to try with an inner tube first! This doesn't require that "pop" either which makes things a lot easier :)
Having a fun time yaa
Try active heating in the print chamber. I've had the same issue with abs. "Supposedly" raising the print chamber temp with a heat allows for better layer adhesion and running the cooling fan at a higher %
This is the most realistic UA-cam channel anyone els would have faked it all to make it look like a success, glad you keep it real, because truth is if you like making stuff you are going to “fail” more than you succeed and that needs to be more glorified!
I agree. The few channels that I've found that not only keep in errors and mistakes, but also talk through them, are much more valuable to me than the channels that just shows the end result looking all perfect
cool experiment, I'm about to get into 3d printing, next time just use an inner tube so you don't have to worry about sealing it. good luck!
That's awesome! Thanks for your suggestion. As a matter of fact, yesterday I ordered an inner tube because that would make things a lot easier indeed
@Green Mamba Games No, but they are. Today I received them :)
Those paintbrush POV shots made me smile despite being so simple. Thank you for pushing the community forward with your excited projects. 2021 is gonna be awesome
It was a fun way to hold the brush like this twitter.com/properprinting/status/1342053084575510528 xD 2021 is going to be awesome indeed!
I was just waiting for the air compressor to come on and scare you. Lol
Well, it did. Scared the s*it out of me haha xD
@@properprinting I can imagine Jon, I've also been scared that way before, and when working on a 3D printed rim, I think it's even scarier. Hehe.
This was enjoyable to watch! Great video and experiment!
Awesome, thanks man!
Try watching with [CC] on - even more enjoyable 🤭😁 Do not know whatTF UA-cam is thinking 🤔
Your videos are so entertaining. It is refreshing to see a 3D printing UA-cam channel that is not just about reviews and we can follow you projects and count your injuries lol.
Thanks Karl! I often get asked by 3D printer companies to make reviews for them. I do accept sponsored products, but only those which actually help with the project and make the video about the project. So, I reject a lot xD
@@properprinting I have nothing against product reviews but a lot channels it is all they seem to do now. Next you will be printing the tyre out of flex too.
Brilliant channel. Love seeing your process and your learnings along the way. I would never do something as crazy/different as a printed rim, and I am captivated at this whole journey.
Thanks for your extra effort in your Camera work to make some very interesting montage's. Hope the result is as fun for you as it is enjoyable to watch.
Happy new year.
10:57 - Perfect attitude. Great lessons can be learned from failure.
Dude, spoilers
@@rudavko lmfao
Before mounting the tire, apply grease where the tire seats. When inflating the tire remove the valve inside the valvestem then enough air can enter to let the tier pop out where it will seat. That's how the professionals do it.
Yep it is
One of the best (if not the best) 3d printing channel on YT. I am an engineering student and your videos inspire me to experiment and use my knowledge to make things! Danku u well!
"Everything that goes wrong in 2021 will not be due to the filament."
Optimism at its best.
You did it man! Congratulations, happy new year.
Thanks! Happy new year, 2021 is going to be awesome!
The fact you even got to this point is something to be applauded. Well done and hope we can get all 4 rims printed!!
Finally! Have found a video where someone has done this. Awesome videos! Cannot wait to see more.
As for someone who is rapid proto typing all sort of custom parts to build the race car for research and development, this gives me excitement to know there is no end to possibilities!
Nice idea, but you Have to change the thickness on the brocken Area..
Your thikness have to be "New thickness = original thickness x 20 or30*. In case of that the original ist steel. In case of alu *New thickness= original thickness x 10or15*
The next Problem you will get under air pressure of 2 Bar. With This pressure and This space you get an very high force. So you Have to increase the thickness every with the formula.
Good luck
This was awesome! I was instinctively getting ready to duck as you were lowering the jack hahaha. So glad I found your channel! Keep up the great work.
I was on the edge of my seat while you were lowering the Jack. I love that your videos show your process even at these learning stages. So many just focus on the final product. Thank you for your efforts!
Your videos keep getting more and more entertaining
Thanks Colin! I still have to get used to make a video together with a friend. I had a lot of fun doing it and I'm very happy how it's received!
Try an inner tube next time, Might be hard to find one though. good effort, keep going.
Yes, that is the good solution. Then he doesnt need to worry about leaks anymore, only about structural strength.
@@narancs5 thanks, it was just an idea that I had. I feel clever now, thanks for validating me. :)
Before going again to the drawing board, consider a Annealing the parts after printed.
That is what i mentioned already before.
Put it in a huge box with salt, and heat it in the oven, it will become as strong as being molded, instead of printed.
Maybe even the currentr print can be saved, or used as test subject
There are good reasons why automotive wheels are not made of any type of plastic.
Celebrating this failure as part of the engineering process is fantastic! It's great to keep a healthy attitude and stick with things in order to keep it fun. Thank you for the content!
A POWERFUL 2021 for all of us...
As always best of the regards from Brazil!!!
Thanks a lot Lello!! 2021 will become awesome! :D
An enjoyable and entertaining video to close out the year. The blooper at the end was 🤣🤣🤣.
I like watching your iterative process though I can't yet imagine the effort that goes into recording your exploits.
Layer adhesion is not your friend so far. If you have any gaps between perimeters you need to adjust your profile to close them up. That rim likely needs to be solid, literally.
As you've probably realized by now, you'll need much thicker cross sections for your material than with metals. Your external design may be fixed, but you can thicken a lot into the compressed-air space for better strength.
Good luck with the next revision in 2021.💪👍🛵
Thanks for your feedback! The crack appeared after I tightened those bolts and the rim was warped. At this moment I've got 5 perimeters with a 1.2mm nozzle and damn, this eats a lot of material haha xD 2021 will be new design, better print process and it'll work ;)
Instead of printing a wheel that looks good try designing a wheel to be 3d printed. You can't just take a "normal" object and 3d print it and expect it to function. But in most cases you can design an object to be 3d printed that will have the same function as the part it replaces and be successful. It will look different but the function is always better if you design for printing.
While it didn't work this time, you sir are still a legend just for trying something like this! Love it!
Keep on being awesome! Preferably without injuring yourself.
Beginning of video prediction. You can't run angled seat bolts in almost any 3d print. The tightening forces required too be safe on the car put an expanding force on the seat. That part of the rim needs flat bottom fasteners or better yet machined steel or aluminum sleeves with flat lip epoxied into the rim with the bevel inside the metal insert. As it is, tight nuts against these seats will produce white stress marks in the plastic then splits. But I love the channel! Enjoyed the process.
This is some great advice, thanks! This would make a great improvement too :D
Love how he posts all his failures, and the process, not just the times when he's successful
I hope you are making a pile of cash on your channel. The production quality is out of this world. I love the feel of the channel.
Lol! The compressor turning on was hilarious!
You can use sealant for tubeless bicycle tires to make it air tight. You can also watch some videos on seating bicycle tires.
Your editing skills are on a really high level. Keep up king
I'm so happy to see your blend of innovation and outright idiocy!
Nice work, you are taking a big challenge there. By experience I've tried to make 3D printed watertight vessels and I must say that for this to be archived you need to do a acetone vapor post processing, and even doing this I had problems with microleaks. I wish good look for your project.
It's so cool to be alive in a time with such a technology boom, to be able to watch all these different things and manufacturing techniques Chang the world.
Hey man!
Awesome idea!
Never thought of trying something like that, but it seems really cool!
I just want to give you a tip that has helped me a lot of times already:
Think outside of the box! You made the pieces that will be bolted together small.
Make such a piece stronger! It does not have to look like a rim to function like a rim
Keep up the good work!
Koenigsegg wants to find your location. Jokes aside, well done, i almost died from laughing when the rim snapped. On to V2.
weer een goede video vol ups en downs, maar natuurlijk met de altijd gezonde dosis humor! ga zo door maat!
Bedankt man!
How can you tell when someone is having fun and enjoying what he is doing? When he can fart, laugh and publish it online. Keep the good work my'man and happy new year. 🥳
Great to see you boldly trying crazy stuff and documenting also the failures. Keep up the good work! When you said some sanding was needed, for a moment I thought you were going to bolt the wheel to the car and "lathe" it smooth with some sand paper.
Sh*t, don't give me these kind of awesome ideas xD I don't have a lathe, so using a car as a lathe is genius! What can go wrong🤣
Nice video man. Sometimes stuff doesn't work out, but that's part of the fun.
Thanks! I couldn't agree more :)
FYI when trying to seat a tire take the valve stem center out and it goes it at higher volume and will help seal the bead also what I do is if you have one side on the bead put tire on a can and push down the center and add air. But definitely helps with center of valve out
Two things:
1 use tubed tires instead of tubles, that solves issue with air coming out and the pressure on the rim will be of compression instead of trying to split it apart.
2A use acetone vapor to smooth the rim it will help remove crack that will split the rim.
2B anneal the rim to make it a solid, also increasing the print temperature will give worse finish but better strength.
I think the only way to successfully do something like this would be to print something and then cast it. But hats off to you if it can be done with just plastic and good design.
Hey, looks like you're getting close!
Praying you have a great 2021!
It's finally getting there :D 2021 is going to be awesome!!
I've not been on for a while and just catching up with all your vids. As mad as ever, nice one man
Hey you're back! Thanks man, have fun watching! :D
Use abs goop as a sealant. Also crank up the temp on the hot end to keep the layers from delaminating.
Eliminating the long hose will allow more air to enter the wheel faster, possibly helping it expand enough to seal. Worked for a small wheel for a trailere that had come loose from its rim
I ended up not using that long hose, but for the next iteration I'm going to use an inner tube. This makes my life much easier :)
Awesome - that went better than expected 😂🤣 Looking forward to the 2021 version 🤠
I'm happy that it failed at that thin wall. It went better than expected indeed! xD
Awesome and crazy haha. I remember when I was in school to work on aircraft, they told us most deaths in aviation are due wheels exploding during pressurization. Airplane wheels are split down the center like that too. We never messed with the pressure on wheels until the wheel was in a steel cage hahaha. Be careful! I like the Mini btw.
Best NL 3d printing channel
Thicker rim will help for sure. Resize the rear section of the rim so that your tire will fit properly. This should help with the sealing process.
Lol almost there! For your next version you should do the simulation module in fusion and see if that helps. It’s also a pretty cool visual for the video. Happy new year!
Yes, I have to do the finite element analysis for my next iteration. The part that failed in this video would've been found if I've done that. Happy new year!
Good on you! Glad to see you are not giving in. You will succeed!
when you put the stap on the tire, i knew you were a man of culture
Ik heb me op deze dag zeer veheugd en ben er tog niet teleurgesteld van het eind resultaat. Je bent een genie! Groeten vanuit Aruba.
Tof! Ik ben erg blij dat ondanks het resultaat je niet teleurgesteld bent :) Ik was wel even bang dat het een CyberPunk 2077 effect zou hebben xD
@@properprinting XD dat effect kwam pas aan het eind met dat scheetje. lol
Nothing comes out right the first time, your the man you will make it . Stay true to yourself and you can do anything. Great ending for the video, lol.
You'd rather use the printed rim to make a mold to cast aluminum... There's no problem with the design but with the material. I was pretty pessimistic that you could inflate the tire totally. Thank you for having tested it. It's despite that very last disappointment, a success.
Its great trying out new ways 3d printing can be used, but have you thought of making an airless car tire?
this was an amazing experiment I think you should build a bead lock system, you need to tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern when mounting your tire to avoid the unequal pressure and you should consider adding metal hardware inside your design to have something to avoid putting pressure on the thread. I wish you lots of success, you're now aware of one way it does not work, I can't wait to see the way that does!
Hello Jón,
I can hardly wait until you have modified the draft and are going to try again.
Here is a small piece of advice for the next attempt.
Normally the internal part of the valve is always screwed out to inflate the tyre. What you finally do is to force the full reservoir pressure out of the tyre into presses which will make it easier for the tyre to settle at the bead level.
For your own safety you might want to have your tyre/rim combination inflated in a cage at the tyre dealer with some tyre assembly tube.
You need to print it as a one piece rim. Your on the right track. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to 2.0
Thanks for your suggestion. Printing it in one piece has the downsides that it costs more material when only the hub fails (it didn't in this video, but I recon it will), it's more difficult to print and it would be much harder to get a tire around it. For my next iteration almost impossible because I'll remove the well to make it stronger.
@@properprinting what about a thicker center piece and having a beadlock on both sides of the rim. This would allow you to bulk up all three pieces and would help with sealing the bead better
@@b3nyboi that's a good idea and I'll keep it in mind, thanks! I'm going to make it thicker and use an inner tube. This will make my life much easier xD I think I have a good design in mind, but this still is a two piece rim
Love the post processing montage
As the force of the car is essentially coming down on a few print layers, you might want to try not only thickening but putting some "buttress" type inserts on the inside of the back of the rim to distribute the force more - you'd need to be mindful of the disc for the brake, but this might helpprvent all that weight being applied to just one area of the print...anyway, thanks for the video and I wish you every success in 2021!
Mooi schier velgje geworden ... op noar het volgend Joar🥳
Bedankt man en veul zeegn!
for version 2 you should put some steel inserts where the lug bolts go.. i feel if you get it working the bolts will just pull out from the hub.
Super excited to see this project come to conclusion. I think if you thicken those walls and get the tire under pressure it will have much better chances.
Ah, and what you should have done is, release the jack in one go. That's what a tire fitter would do, because his coffee is getting cold and he still needs to fit you three other tires and check them on the balancer! Oh and I was already subscribed before I watched this one. 😁
Loving this series, it is fun, I am sceptical, but amazing to see if you can get this working :D Best of Luck!!
Awesome! I'm skeptical too, but I've got the feeling that it's doable. At least I'll find out how far I can go with 3D printing ;)
je hebt me weer goed geamuseerd met je avonturen!!! proper printen he!!
Top, leuk om te lezen! Mooi einde van het jaar zo :D
Nice rim experiment, on the next one just use an inner tube and you won’t have to seal it.
13:39 i laugh so hard
Fart nation :)
thank! I missed that initially :))
That's what real tire guys sound like when they start jacking up cars just after lunch...
great idea. I would use long threaded rods instead of the screws and screw them across the entire width. Make sure to print at a higher temperature (+10) and design the spokes flat without overhang. I print large parts with a 1mm nozzle and don't like black filament because it breaks often between the layers.
I love your videos so much. Thank you for sharing them!
if you remove the valve core when you try to bead the tire on the rim it's much easier. also, soapy water on rubber makes it slide.
The valve core itself sticks out so it doesn't collide with the tire at all ;)
@@properprinting It's the inner part of the valve that you remove, using a tool a bit like a screwdriver, but with a notch at the end of the shaft instead of a blade. - It's not to avoid causing an obstruction for the tyre, but to allow the air to flow through unrestricted. This gives the compressor a better chance of getting the tyre seated on the bead.
@@Stoo426 well, that makes sense. Thanks for the explanation!
Thanks for including that last bit! xD
Destructive engineering is sometimes more enjoyable than succeeding. The laughs around beers remembering catastrophic fails.
First things first, printing in that orientation is almost guaranteed failure along layer line axis as the static load is a linear shear force aligned with the weakest axis in the print(as well as in motion the torsional forces from accelerating/braking are also aligned with said weakest axis). There's not really a great axis to print on because wheels are subject to such a wide array of forces in almost all directions...but annealing the material might help there(see Third point below).
Second, ABS has a higher impact resistance, but PLA has a higher strength and stiffness according to the data CNC kitchen got from testing PLA/PETG/ASA(ABS) a while back. Also, PLA+ or Tough PLA, depending on the manufacturer, can be annealed to create a better layer bond(increasing the odds for an air tight seal) and allow it to be more readily sandable for a smoother surface finish.........And they don't have a high tendency to warp like ABS.
My suggestion is to print in Tough PLA, anneal it properly, sand ALL the surfaces well, coat them in a few layers of resin, cure fully and then(if necessary) apply a gasket maker to the mounting surfaces before bolting them all together around the tire.
Third, your design appears to be some sort of hybrid between 2 piece and 3 piece wheels. Granted, I understand that a new design might be necessary to manage the stresses with an alternative material(plastic in this case), but if you're shooting for a 2 piece design the barrel needs to be all one piece and the disk should bolt to the barrel.
I think in your case, it would be best to go for a 3 piece as it makes mounting tires easier and allows for smaller/less complex prints. That being said, the disk needs to be a single piece sandwiched/compressed between the inner and outter barrel sections. This focuses a lot of the stress along a single plane where all three are mounted together(so reinforce the hell out of the mounting holes). You probably already gathered that though since that's where your wheel failed in this video.
Hope this helps.
Could an acetone smoothing have improved adhesion and avoided some of the other sealant methods.
I was going to suggest that until I saw your comment. I'm a +1 for a giant acetone vapor bath.
I was thinking of acetone, but I want to use other materials when the design is optimized.
I thought of that, but here is the thing:
While acetone smoothing could help in regards to have a better a seal
it wouldn't help to improve the layer adhesion as the smoothing only occurs on the outside of the print which won't make it a stronger print in that regard for that I think annealing would be the way the go, btw I think CNC Kitchen made a video about it
@@chicorodrigues2155 your probably right but anneal could distort material. ABS may not be the way to go.
@@properprinting Never miss your videos. Somebody that makes stuff, so tired of unboxings.
The 2 sections are in shear and your using the bolts to hold them in tension so only the friction between the two pieces is holding them concentric
I cried watching your car wheel series 😢 you are great
As a mechanic, you should lube the rim and tire BEFORE mounting the rim. You may have more success with air too so the weight is not on the rim alone. I can't wait to see part 2! 😁
Please heed my advice
I think adding ribs instead of a thicker layer. The ribs will add more strength in the directions needed per amount of material.
What you are doing helps me come up with my own crazy ideas. You are awesome. Keep it up
That's awesome, thanks Evan! Coming up with your own ideas and making them real is so cool and 3D printing enables this :D
Super interesting. Looking forward to another try
Also had a light heartattack when the compressor started 😂
What a nice surprise for 2020! (so few nice ones) Was not expecting to see this yet. Looking forward to seeing your rim in PEEK or one of the other high performance filaments (and a like sponsorship deal!) in 2021! Were there washers on those rim-half bolts? That could help. .. Also, longer bolts. Try to keep the plastic out of tension unnecessarily.
I'm so glad that my first real try is done within this year. Wow, a rim printed in PEEK would really be next level! I'm not even sure if the chamber I use will be capable of reaching the required temperatures xD I'll need two print heads because I otherwise have to throw away 100's of Euro's xD I didn't use washers and I should've done that. In this design this wasn't the weakest point and I'm glad it failed due to a design flaw and not due to the cracks ;)
'k zou er niet mee rond rijden, maar wel tof die eerlijke experimenten. Fun fun!
The rim looks great! :)
Thanks Thomas! The generative design looks so cool when printed :D
@@properprinting Sure does! :)
Yessssss i have waited so long for this l, ever since Joel showcased you I have loved your channel
Awesome Adam! It's so cool that Joel did that, I'm still very grateful :D
@@properprinting hahaha it's well deserved I love the video formats and your enthusiasm,
Very entertaining as always mate. Happy new year!!!
Thanks, happy new year!
I was wiling it to work, loved the paint brush cam, pure genius 😊
well done, great video, loved it... I hope much thicker parts on the rim will bring success
Nice! One thing I have found out is that due to the plastic used in 3D printing, you will need to make the part thicker to achieve the same toughness as with the metal part. Such an example is the mounting bracket for AM4 processors for Corsair Hydro i100. The original bracket is made from 2-3 mm thick stainless steel, the one that I printed with PETG was around 1-1.5 cm thick. Which is around 5 times thicker. I would suggest going for the slimmest parts to be at least 6-7 times thicker.
You're right, my new design will be much simpler and thicker :D
@@properprinting Just before start design and print, try some tests with different materials. I see that you are keen on using ABS for the rims. For example, test a sheet of aluminium with around 2-3 mm thickness and try to achieve the same toughness and flexibility with ABS. Let's say... That I have wasted a couple of days redesign and reprint parts just to find a perfect fit or toughness.
A good next step would be to try the process with smaller tires first, like for a wheelbarrow or go-cart or something similar. They'll be smaller so you'll be able to more rapidly prototype and figure out what works and what doesn't.
Just the build process to get you to this point is amazing. Good luck with the project, however it turns out.
Thanks David! I'll need it ;)
Better luck next time and I am sure that you will succeed in the end.
Keep up the great work and of course, Have Fun!!
Joe
Yes the structure of the rim has to be reinforced to supplement the loss of tensile and compressive strength,I suggest triple the thickness of the ring, use 3 spokes withe triple thickness
Well done! I suggest to use a little bit of fan at the overhangs
This is the content I crave.