If you have an idea which extruder would be interesting to fit on here, let me know! Only the files of the standard Proper Extruder are available on my website for now, but I’ll add this version soon :D
What would be to have to both sides longer X axis, and the connector would be the magnetic like - eg. magsafe connectors... That way would be able to use a set of extruders that the printer could replace automagically in between printing process. Using both sides of the printer as extruder host, and reuse of your invention as flipping between heads - would be really interesting.
I really think your belt design would be perfect for that, as it doesn't deform the filament while gripping it! I really should give it a try or something similar, like a super grippy neoprene wheel instead of teeth
Agreed - the M3 screws thing was genius! I wonder if a grub screw or two driven into the groove mount _perpendicularly_ (the tip of the screw slightly digging into the aluminium, not cutting threads into it) would have worked well enough... 🤔 Cutting threads is no doubt stronger, but the heatsink shouldn't see huge rotational forces (or the heat break would … um … _break_ 👀) so grub screws might be enough. Grub screws/perpendicular screws might require less force to install, too - I'm not sure I'd trust a FFF-printed part to survive the forces needed for cutting threads :) (For other extruders, I mean, not yours; e.g. adding grub screws to a Prusa i3's E3D V6 to stop it rotating) Not that it matters much to me - my only printer uses a Hermes-branded Hemera so I haven't had to deal with groove-mount for a while :D But I broke the wires of several thermistors and heater cartridges during nozzle changes when I was using the old V6, so I know that pain! 😫
This is such an exciting project. Thanks for taking us along as you design and build all the parts. I particularly love the video editing; it's beautifully done and I’m sure a huge amount of work. I can’t wait to see your next installment!
Macro shots of this translucent parts during the print are an absolute pleasure to watch. And the music of your videos is always very good 👍 Without a resin printer I will never be able to build this neat piece of engineering you have created, but it's always amazing to look at the enhancements you're working on. Thanks again for this contents!
What a freaking brilliant way to mount the groove-mount style hotends! Such a great video! The story telling, the progress, amazing. And yes, that skull print is ABSOLUTELY YOU!
D-sub connectors are typically rated for 5 amps, gold contacts even more. Thats enough for a rapido with its 115w. For reference, thats not far of from a whole prusa mini and more than half of a ender 3 and similar bed
Ready for a Proper Question? You making all these cool projects... ARE you also editing these cool videos yourself? Congrats!! I've been following your channel since the beginning - the quality of EVERYTHING increased dramatically!
Thanks a lot for your awesome comment! I do edit the videos myself, I really like this process and I've learned a lot throughout the course of the channel. Awesome to read that this is noticed, thanks!
Excellent video. I'm always blown away by the level of detail you put into all of your designs and your persistence in making sure everything is just right. Oh, and great self portrait you printed at the end! 😉
erstmal hallo unbekannter Weise, die Experimente mit dem Licorice Laces waren der Hammer, und auch mit einem FFM Drucker Resin zu drucken. weiter so, ich finde Du bist der innovativste Printing Kanal in UA-cam.
Something I‘d be really interested in is a diy hotend-extruder combo. So a heatsink that’s part of or directly connected to the extruder and has provisions to mount the cooling fan and parts cooling fan to it, so its a single piece that can just fulfill the roles you usually would need a bunch of different pieces for. In my mind it also allows to use a 40x40 fan for the parts cooling, so people can go all noctua and have a machine that doesn’t produce any sounds.
Love this concept for soft filament feeder, awesome work, my only negative is the use of a Noctua fan, I recommend a good quality 4020 dual ball bearing fan or Maglev fan instead of the Noctua 4010.
Yes, I also thought it looked like you as soon as I saw the model, then I wondered if it was actually modelled on you, but didn't take the time to investigate.
At 1:50 in you solved something that was driving me nute ... embedding things and pressing in shafts . I dontt know why i had never thought to insert while not fully cured .No more cracking gears THANKS!
Nice and inspiring video, thx. i am playing with CAN-bus and Klipper for my toolhead. Very simple connection (4 pins) with small controller on the toolhead. More flexible in the long run but more complex for the first toolhead.
That is soooo cool!!!! Maybe after you make your first million you could please design a replacement all metal standardized extruder that can replace the extruders on the i-fast. It's a great printer but it needs a better high temp extruder.
Thank you! That idea crossed my mind. I like the printer, but really dislike the extruder. The toughest part would be to keep that switching mechanism between both extruders working in the same way.
This is probably the first time a Noctua fan works with an existing color scheme :D BTW, the 40x10mm Noctuas don't blow a lot of air and it might be better to use a 40x20mm fan. I love this project! I hope you keep on tweaking it. Would be cool if some other UA-camrs like Stefan or Vector3D could scientifically compare it to some other commercial extruders.
Absolutely fantastic! Your video comes at the right time as i'm currently tinkering with a tronxy x5sa pro for which I planned some sort of tool-changing. And now I'm really looking forward in building one myself! I would be interested in seeing some high-flow hotends on your extruder like the Nova, Rapido or the Magnum+
Good to see progress since mrrf, looks amazing in the clear, I did and entire Orbiterv2.0 and Dragon UHF setup in some smoke translucent that turned out cool too, I'm really liking the Dragon UHF, you should give that one a shot
Once you've finished working on extruders, try and make a better cooling duct with something like a 5015 fan or even try CPAP cooling. It'd be cool to see what you could make!
This is a really beautiful design Jon. Maybe it's a bit premature of me but have you thought of a bracket for a BL-Touch? There looks like a lot of handwork to make this instrument, what's your ideas for making this design at some sort of scale? Thank you for all your hard work and making these well produced and engaging videos.
Your CR-10 reminds me of my tevo tornado, since I eventually put a duetwifi and a direct drive extruder onto it. Obviously not the same direct drive extruder as you designed here mind you...
I have an idea. Being that you made it swappable. Which means u need steper motors for each component you use..why not use just one motor and the same flex cable that's used in the flex extruder and nimble flex extruder. Saves on motor connections and checking motor steps, and weight! Just a thought.
I currently have a Q5 delta at home, but I have a J 850 at work, so I would love to see a version of this that works with the effector plate of the Q5.
It might be interesting to try one of the shortened hot ends that's moves the heat sink out of the line of the filament. I can think of the Bondtech LGX FF off the top of my head but I'm sure there are more.
@@BartoszSobierajski as much as I love this extruder, i dont think its a good fit on the Vzhead. The hextrudort is a very well capable tpu monster too :) I was able to print at 400mms with it
Why did you use a noctua fan for hotend cooling? Looking at the specs sheet I have found noctua fans to perform very poorly (in both price and noise) in high pressure low flow applications, as is the case for cooling a hotend. There are much better (and at the same time cheaper) options out there.
Interesting, these are the most silent fans I ever used and I like the aesthetics. I assumed that Noctua was the pinnacle of fans. What do you recommend?
I’m glad someone else feels the same. I wasted $15 on a tiny fan that made PLA unprintable in my printer. $8 for a 4 pack on AliExpress? Those work great and are basically as quiet
@@properprinting They sure are silent, and they look good, but in most applications where flow is obstructed (i.e. there is resistance) the flow drops tremendously. They are also massively overpriced for how they perform. Noctua has a very good PR department, but there's a reason why you don't see them in most professional equipment. As for fans, there's a couple of brands that seem to do well: Gulf Electrics, GDS time, Delta and Sunon. As an example to illustrate my point: You seem to have the NF-A4x10 there? That seems to produce a dBa rating of about 18. Sadly Noctua doesn't actually provide PQ curves, just the two extremes (~8.5 m^3/h flow, ~1.85 mm H2O pressure), still we will try to work with this. You don't need to search for very long to find a better replacement part. For example the Sunon HA40101V4-1000U-A99. It has ~9m^3/h flow, and 2.286 mm H20 pressure at the extremes. Typical noise is just 15.7 dBa, and the very best part: They are just 4.87$ in one off quantity (digikey). This was a fan I found quickly just now using distributor search engines, I am sure if you actually put in some effort you can find significantly better fans for the application. The best approach would be to do a flow simulation and estimate where on the PQ curve you'd be, so that you can optimize the fan on the specific application. But maybe that goes a bit too deeply into the topic.
@@nathanblanchard8897 It's not just your feeling, it's supported by the numbers. Especially replacing the part cooling fan will cause you heaps of trouble, as those need to work in a very flow restricted environment. Sadly people just think that Noctua is automatically the best because they are famous for PC fans, which just isn't true.
Hi :) I bought the files for this gorgeous design! What settings and nozzle size do you recommend for printing using FDM? Will be using clear petg to kind of mimic the cool translucent look you have going :D
8mm injection/compression screw from aliexpress, in a 10x8mm tube, feed the tpu in to the screw at one end and let it spiral down while being heated, like a pellet extruder but without the pellets?
Weer een goeie video! Een vraagje. Ik had een tijdje geleden gevraagd of je nog van plan was om de CAD bestand van de peristaltische pomp beschikbaar te maken. Ik ben em nog niet tegen gekomen op je website. Is dit nog iets wat je van plan bent om te doen? zo niet, zou je dan misschien kunnen vertellen wat de truc was om de flow constanter te krijgen. Ik ben nu zelf wat aan het experimenteren en het zal mijn leven wat makkelijker maken als je wat tips had. Ik hoor het wel
You say the front parts have to be as stiff as possible. For those parts could I CNC them out of 3mm aluminum and print the rest of the parts? The work you've done is amazing great job.
Great builds! Flexible filament extruders are a worthy place for your skills - I would certainly build/buy one that's stable. Perhaps not unlike SexyCyborg, there is a Creality partnership ahead to scale up your innovation.
@@properprinting bij mij werkt hij goed totdat ik te ver in de rechter hoek print dan zit de nozzle in eens te laag waardoor ik een hele lelijke eerste laag krijg. Hoopte dat jij misschien een oplossing had gevonden
The db connector can handle that much current? I'm pretty sure I thought I saw you use a custom connector with larger pins for the heating element itself a while back.
Yes, no problem. I also did that with the original swappable hotend. The reason why I did that with the custom connector was because I crimped those connections myself. I didn't trust that as much as I do with these genuine Harting connectors.
I can't wait to put one of your extruders on my CR-10 Smart. I'm curious, how does the weight of the whole tooling package compare to something like the new Creality Sprite Extruder or the average BMG clone.
Awesome to see the progress on the Proper Extruder. We are looking to change out our machines we use for our business to your design. Would you foresee any issues with the extruder printed in SLS nylon? As always, keep up the great work.
Thanks! Awesome that you want to use this with your machines! I don't have experience with SLS printed Nylon. The base part and front plate must be as stiff as possible and I don't know how flexible that Nylon is going to be.
@@condorman6293 Those were likely CF nylon prints then. Regular PA12 nylon has a flexural modulus of about 6.6e8, PA 6 is even worse. PA66 performs probably the best but also at 1.37e9, doesn't come close to for example PLA, and is about on par with ABS. As a comparison, even PETG has a flexural modulus of about 1e9. Although I do think printing it out of CF nylon might be interesting, as the stiffness and yield strength are much higher.
@@properprinting Regular Nylons (PA12, PA6) are probably not stiff enough (approximately the same or worse than PETG). However, CF Nylon blends might be viable as they are both stiffer and have a higher yield strength. Not sure if you have experience with the markforged printers, but if you are able to do carbon fiber inlays with those, the stiffness goes up dramatically, and those results are way stiffer than PLA, yet unbreakable by hand for most parts.
If you have an idea which extruder would be interesting to fit on here, let me know! Only the files of the standard Proper Extruder are available on my website for now, but I’ll add this version soon :D
What would be to have to both sides longer X axis, and the connector would be the magnetic like - eg. magsafe connectors... That way would be able to use a set of extruders that the printer could replace automagically in between printing process. Using both sides of the printer as extruder host, and reuse of your invention as flipping between heads - would be really interesting.
hotswapping a mini dremel for mixed additive and subtractive ?
Pellet extruder designed by you 😉
I'm really interested to see if the belt design eliminates the issue of "inconsistent extrusion" toothed hotends have! if so, I'm building one asap!
I really think your belt design would be perfect for that, as it doesn't deform the filament while gripping it! I really should give it a try or something similar, like a super grippy neoprene wheel instead of teeth
Great design! 👏😎 The 2 x M3 screws holding the V6 collar is a pretty smart idea!
Thanks! It was a workaround for the bowden tube that was sticking out, but it turns out to be a good working solution on itself!
Agreed - the M3 screws thing was genius!
I wonder if a grub screw or two driven into the groove mount _perpendicularly_ (the tip of the screw slightly digging into the aluminium, not cutting threads into it) would have worked well enough... 🤔
Cutting threads is no doubt stronger, but the heatsink shouldn't see huge rotational forces (or the heat break would … um … _break_ 👀) so grub screws might be enough.
Grub screws/perpendicular screws might require less force to install, too - I'm not sure I'd trust a FFF-printed part to survive the forces needed for cutting threads :)
(For other extruders, I mean, not yours; e.g. adding grub screws to a Prusa i3's E3D V6 to stop it rotating)
Not that it matters much to me - my only printer uses a Hermes-branded Hemera so I haven't had to deal with groove-mount for a while :D
But I broke the wires of several thermistors and heater cartridges during nozzle changes when I was using the old V6, so I know that pain! 😫
Same solution was used to hold extruder in ROBO 3D R1, nothing new.
This is such an exciting project. Thanks for taking us along as you design and build all the parts. I particularly love the video editing; it's beautifully done and I’m sure a huge amount of work. I can’t wait to see your next installment!
Thank you!
Macro shots of this translucent parts during the print are an absolute pleasure to watch. And the music of your videos is always very good 👍 Without a resin printer I will never be able to build this neat piece of engineering you have created, but it's always amazing to look at the enhancements you're working on.
Thanks again for this contents!
What a freaking brilliant way to mount the groove-mount style hotends! Such a great video! The story telling, the progress, amazing. And yes, that skull print is ABSOLUTELY YOU!
For the heat cartridge connection you probably want to use more of the pins on that connector to avoid melting it.(ask me how i know ;p)
This quality connector can handle 6.5A/pin, it'll be fine ;)
D-sub connectors are typically rated for 5 amps, gold contacts even more. Thats enough for a rapido with its 115w. For reference, thats not far of from a whole prusa mini and more than half of a ender 3 and similar bed
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 had one melt out after s bad connection from corrosion
Ready for a Proper Question? You making all these cool projects... ARE you also editing these cool videos yourself? Congrats!! I've been following your channel since the beginning - the quality of EVERYTHING increased dramatically!
Thanks a lot for your awesome comment! I do edit the videos myself, I really like this process and I've learned a lot throughout the course of the channel. Awesome to read that this is noticed, thanks!
Excellent video. I'm always blown away by the level of detail you put into all of your designs and your persistence in making sure everything is just right. Oh, and great self portrait you printed at the end! 😉
First time I've ever seen a noctua fan picked for it's color scheme, love it!
erstmal hallo unbekannter Weise, die Experimente mit dem Licorice Laces waren der Hammer, und auch mit einem FFM Drucker Resin zu drucken. weiter so, ich finde Du bist der innovativste Printing Kanal in UA-cam.
Something I‘d be really interested in is a diy hotend-extruder combo.
So a heatsink that’s part of or directly connected to the extruder and has provisions to mount the cooling fan and parts cooling fan to it, so its a single piece that can just fulfill the roles you usually would need a bunch of different pieces for.
In my mind it also allows to use a 40x40 fan for the parts cooling, so people can go all noctua and have a machine that doesn’t produce any sounds.
For the resin I'd say hit it with a coat of poly or acrylic so the resin doesn't keep getting hit with uv through window getting brittle over time.
never seen mounting a part and then curing. very cool!
The groove mount on the dragonfly bmo can unscrew separately from the heatsink. You can just rigid mount it.
Quite an engineering marvel!... I have no idea what is going on, but it looks awesome!
Love this concept for soft filament feeder, awesome work, my only negative is the use of a Noctua fan, I recommend a good quality 4020 dual ball bearing fan or Maglev fan instead of the Noctua 4010.
I really like the idea of using belts to drive the filament without distorting it. I think it could become the standard some day.
The calming music while building was really making me think something was gonna go very wrong at the end LOL. Great video man !
Yes, I also thought it looked like you as soon as I saw the model, then I wondered if it was actually modelled on you, but didn't take the time to investigate.
At 1:50 in you solved something that was driving me nute ... embedding things and pressing in shafts . I dontt know why i had never thought to insert while not fully cured .No more cracking gears THANKS!
Nice and inspiring video, thx. i am playing with CAN-bus and Klipper for my toolhead. Very simple connection (4 pins) with small controller on the toolhead. More flexible in the long run but more complex for the first toolhead.
Love the idea for holding the V6!
That is soooo cool!!!! Maybe after you make your first million you could please design a replacement all metal standardized extruder that can replace the extruders on the i-fast. It's a great printer but it needs a better high temp extruder.
Thank you! That idea crossed my mind. I like the printer, but really dislike the extruder. The toughest part would be to keep that switching mechanism between both extruders working in the same way.
Beautiful work ! Helpful thoughts and actions like yours is refreshing.
This is probably the first time a Noctua fan works with an existing color scheme :D BTW, the 40x10mm Noctuas don't blow a lot of air and it might be better to use a 40x20mm fan. I love this project! I hope you keep on tweaking it. Would be cool if some other UA-camrs like Stefan or Vector3D could scientifically compare it to some other commercial extruders.
This extruder seems like a great fit on a voron printer as well!. would be a interesting one i think
Before doing the press-fit of parts, but the shatf and motor in the freeser and warm the gear a bit !
Hi Jón, I love your work and wish you all the best!
an idea for fitting those: add a cam to hold the hotend instead of using screws, that should make switching the hotends way easier.
Crazy stuff ❤ this Extruder looks amazing ❤
Absolutely fantastic!
Your video comes at the right time as i'm currently tinkering with a tronxy x5sa pro for which I planned some sort of tool-changing. And now I'm really looking forward in building one myself!
I would be interested in seeing some high-flow hotends on your extruder like the Nova, Rapido or the Magnum+
Great video. That method to secure the round E3D block was genius. Also smart using transparent plastic. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Love your videos. How has it taken me this long to find your channel !!!
Good to see progress since mrrf, looks amazing in the clear, I did and entire Orbiterv2.0 and Dragon UHF setup in some smoke translucent that turned out cool too, I'm really liking the Dragon UHF, you should give that one a shot
Love your works! You should try to build a rolling screw extruder, it's really cool
1:30 Another great "Godver-!" moment
I've been seeing these skulls from rogi studios everywhere, and I always thought they looked like you as well.
Someone give this brilliant man an SLS printer already!
Se ve muy interesante el diseño. Me gustaria ver si puedes diseñar un extrusor basado en el modelo de voron y ver que tal funciona. Gran video!
A tool changer, tool changer! That is wild.
The clear resin is very elegant looking, maybe try UV resin sometime but my only concern would be the longevity due to heat changes over time
always great to watch your development work :D
Very brilliant! Loved the whole process
I'd love to have this on my bambulab x1 to print really soft tpu and wax filaments, haven't seen many upgrades to stock bambulabs
Impressive design
Great job
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us 🙂
Once you've finished working on extruders, try and make a better cooling duct with something like a 5015 fan or even try CPAP cooling. It'd be cool to see what you could make!
wow, nice adoptation for cr10!
can't wait for the CR6-SE ;) (I'll even buy the working prototype!)
Very elegant and also cool toolhead!
I think it would be cool if you have a mount for the Mosquito (magnum) hotend!
Oh wow, these tools for your extruder is looking amazing! Why don't you start production and sell these?
This is a really beautiful design Jon. Maybe it's a bit premature of me but have you thought of a bracket for a BL-Touch? There looks like a lot of handwork to make this instrument, what's your ideas for making this design at some sort of scale? Thank you for all your hard work and making these well produced and engaging videos.
Next version with smaller motor when? :) Love it!
Would love that you jump in to the positron v3 project.... Even this extruder could give some interesting option
Great video. I like where you had to go through your parts archive, i call mine junk boxes.
Your CR-10 reminds me of my tevo tornado, since I eventually put a duetwifi and a direct drive extruder onto it. Obviously not the same direct drive extruder as you designed here mind you...
I have an idea. Being that you made it swappable. Which means u need steper motors for each component you use..why not use just one motor and the same flex cable that's used in the flex extruder and nimble flex extruder. Saves on motor connections and checking motor steps, and weight! Just a thought.
I currently have a Q5 delta at home, but I have a J 850 at work, so I would love to see a version of this that works with the effector plate of the Q5.
This looks so good! I want to build it, but the piezo sensor I have installed does not allow much modification beyond what is already done.
Fantastic !!! A big thanks for the video. What's the exact ref of the resin you use to make parts ??? Thanks
It might be interesting to try one of the shortened hot ends that's moves the heat sink out of the line of the filament. I can think of the Bondtech LGX FF off the top of my head but I'm sure there are more.
old style replicator hotends. (alu bar that gets a heatsink bolted on it that the feedtube goes into
another very nice and well made video mate!!
Vez are you planning to test the pushing power of this on your LSD? With the TPU possibly?
@@BartoszSobierajski as much as I love this extruder, i dont think its a good fit on the Vzhead. The hextrudort is a very well capable tpu monster too :) I was able to print at 400mms with it
@@BartoszSobierajski ill try
@@Vez3D awesome. I'm building a vzbot slowly too, waiting for the LSD to be available.
Love your videos! Keep it up!
I enjoyed this very much! Thank you for being a mad scientist!
what did you use to put the PSU and controller board under the CR10? do you have the files you used for the legs? Thank you! love your work
Why did you use a noctua fan for hotend cooling? Looking at the specs sheet I have found noctua fans to perform very poorly (in both price and noise) in high pressure low flow applications, as is the case for cooling a hotend. There are much better (and at the same time cheaper) options out there.
Interesting, these are the most silent fans I ever used and I like the aesthetics. I assumed that Noctua was the pinnacle of fans. What do you recommend?
I’m glad someone else feels the same. I wasted $15 on a tiny fan that made PLA unprintable in my printer. $8 for a 4 pack on AliExpress? Those work great and are basically as quiet
@@properprinting I guess if they work then they work, but hydraulic bearings get you most of the quiet gains if that’s the goal
@@properprinting They sure are silent, and they look good, but in most applications where flow is obstructed (i.e. there is resistance) the flow drops tremendously. They are also massively overpriced for how they perform. Noctua has a very good PR department, but there's a reason why you don't see them in most professional equipment.
As for fans, there's a couple of brands that seem to do well: Gulf Electrics, GDS time, Delta and Sunon.
As an example to illustrate my point:
You seem to have the NF-A4x10 there? That seems to produce a dBa rating of about 18. Sadly Noctua doesn't actually provide PQ curves, just the two extremes (~8.5 m^3/h flow, ~1.85 mm H2O pressure), still we will try to work with this.
You don't need to search for very long to find a better replacement part. For example the Sunon HA40101V4-1000U-A99. It has ~9m^3/h flow, and 2.286 mm H20 pressure at the extremes. Typical noise is just 15.7 dBa, and the very best part: They are just 4.87$ in one off quantity (digikey). This was a fan I found quickly just now using distributor search engines, I am sure if you actually put in some effort you can find significantly better fans for the application.
The best approach would be to do a flow simulation and estimate where on the PQ curve you'd be, so that you can optimize the fan on the specific application. But maybe that goes a bit too deeply into the topic.
@@nathanblanchard8897 It's not just your feeling, it's supported by the numbers. Especially replacing the part cooling fan will cause you heaps of trouble, as those need to work in a very flow restricted environment. Sadly people just think that Noctua is automatically the best because they are famous for PC fans, which just isn't true.
the new revo hotends with the easy to replace hotend.
Hi :) I bought the files for this gorgeous design! What settings and nozzle size do you recommend for printing using FDM? Will be using clear petg to kind of mimic the cool translucent look you have going :D
Cool. But colder!
The parts don't have the swappable front end connector yet seems like it is for the original design only?
What's that mini arbor press you used for press fitting the bearings? Could do with one of those!
It's the Micro Press from Proxxon. I just found it on Amazon and created an affiliate link for it: geni.us/Ku69Lp
Ohhhhhhyeeeaaaaah keep the signal 📶 going ✌️ 👍 💪 😎 🇺🇸
The quality of these videos is directly proportional to the epicness of the beard 🧔
8mm injection/compression screw from aliexpress, in a 10x8mm tube, feed the tpu in to the screw at one end and let it spiral down while being heated, like a pellet extruder but without the pellets?
Weer een goeie video! Een vraagje. Ik had een tijdje geleden gevraagd of je nog van plan was om de CAD bestand van de peristaltische pomp beschikbaar te maken. Ik ben em nog niet tegen gekomen op je website. Is dit nog iets wat je van plan bent om te doen? zo niet, zou je dan misschien kunnen vertellen wat de truc was om de flow constanter te krijgen. Ik ben nu zelf wat aan het experimenteren en het zal mijn leven wat makkelijker maken als je wat tips had.
Ik hoor het wel
id love to see what you could do to a prusa mini
i feel like a good light weight direct drive on it would improve print quality alot
You say the front parts have to be as stiff as possible. For those parts could I CNC them out of 3mm aluminum and print the rest of the parts? The work you've done is amazing great job.
PLA would already be stiff enough, but the stiffer, the better. The parts are thicker than 3mm, so you should stack the plates or modify the design.
This video is the definition of tight fit
Really nice work!
SUBSCRIBED!!!
Great builds! Flexible filament extruders are a worthy place for your skills - I would certainly build/buy one that's stable. Perhaps not unlike SexyCyborg, there is a Creality partnership ahead to scale up your innovation.
Do you need the special resin to print these parts? I love your concept I have a old k8200 I want to modify all new stuff and I want your extruder
No, you can even FDM print it! If you want to use resin, I do recommend to use engineering resin because the standard stuff is too brittle.
If Im not mistaking, he said he'd design them to be printed with FDM materials aswell in a recent video
@@properprinting thats what i wanted to now i will print it on a peopoly L in resin. thx
I always thought resin wasn't the way to go for things like this does it hold up better pretty well?
Geweldig ontwerp!
Compleet andere vraag heb jij geen bed leveling probleem met de S1 Pro?
Bedankt! Nee, geen problemen mee. Ik vond het wel wat raar werken, maar uiteindelijk werkt het prima.
@@properprinting bij mij werkt hij goed totdat ik te ver in de rechter hoek print dan zit de nozzle in eens te laag waardoor ik een hele lelijke eerste laag krijg. Hoopte dat jij misschien een oplossing had gevonden
nice John you didnt need to switch the stepper wires this time :)
Great engineering.
Next project? A dedicated beast for TPU maybe?
Man you are GOAT. !!!. Love this
When can I see more video's with your friend? He has such a nice beard dude! I want to frame him on my desk.
I like what you are creating! i will try to help in some way.
The db connector can handle that much current? I'm pretty sure I thought I saw you use a custom connector with larger pins for the heating element itself a while back.
Yes, no problem. I also did that with the original swappable hotend. The reason why I did that with the custom connector was because I crimped those connections myself. I didn't trust that as much as I do with these genuine Harting connectors.
The weight of this makes it totally unrealistic but fun to watch even if it is!
what is the connector called that u used to hook up the heater carterge to it looks like a old computer hook up
I want this on my Ender 3 S1, what would i need ?
Great job.
Como estas? Que software usas para dibujar?
I can't wait to put one of your extruders on my CR-10 Smart. I'm curious, how does the weight of the whole tooling package compare to something like the new Creality Sprite Extruder or the average BMG clone.
Awesome! I'm going to make a comparison video soon!
Awesome to see the progress on the Proper Extruder. We are looking to change out our machines we use for our business to your design. Would you foresee any issues with the extruder printed in SLS nylon? As always, keep up the great work.
Thanks! Awesome that you want to use this with your machines! I don't have experience with SLS printed Nylon. The base part and front plate must be as stiff as possible and I don't know how flexible that Nylon is going to be.
@@properprinting It can be incredibly stiff. Parts from the Fuse1, for example, were too stiff for my application.
@@condorman6293 Those were likely CF nylon prints then. Regular PA12 nylon has a flexural modulus of about 6.6e8, PA 6 is even worse. PA66 performs probably the best but also at 1.37e9, doesn't come close to for example PLA, and is about on par with ABS. As a comparison, even PETG has a flexural modulus of about 1e9.
Although I do think printing it out of CF nylon might be interesting, as the stiffness and yield strength are much higher.
@@properprinting Regular Nylons (PA12, PA6) are probably not stiff enough (approximately the same or worse than PETG). However, CF Nylon blends might be viable as they are both stiffer and have a higher yield strength.
Not sure if you have experience with the markforged printers, but if you are able to do carbon fiber inlays with those, the stiffness goes up dramatically, and those results are way stiffer than PLA, yet unbreakable by hand for most parts.
@@tHaH4x0r They were not. They were PA12 and PA11.
I can only imagine how a e3d Revo would go
What are the feet on that CR10 printer?
Test the belt extruder?
Great video!
What's that cute little press you have there? :D
Thanks! It's the Micro Press from Proxxon. I just found it on Amazon and created an affiliate link for it: geni.us/Ku69Lp
How did you manage to put threaded inserts in SLA resin?
I glued them in using Loctite